Awesome man, I watched most of your build videos. I learnt a few things along the way. I'm just curious if you find the space limiting? It seems a little cramped. I guess its fine if your just putting up your TV and drums.
Hey, thanks for the comment! The space is ok for the drum kit. You could also turn it into a comfortable home office. Ultimately yes I would have loved to have made the space bigger but I was limited on the space available in my garden.
This is a great vid and very helpful. Whats to stop your base plate or sole plate timbers from getting wet? Is there not a risk of them doing so by building without a brick course?
Thanks Owain, glad you are finding the videos helpful. By laying down the DPC it will stop the timbers from drawing up any moisture from the concrete floor itself. The wall cladding and protective membrane will cover up the sides of the baseplate and with a slight overlap, there is really no way any water is going to come into contact with it
Great videos - thanks for sharing. Could you share a little more detail about how you finished the wall edges where they joint at 135 degrees and how you secured the 2 walls together. I understand how to this for 90 degree joints but 135 degree??
Hi Mike, Yes absolutely. The trick is to cut 22.5 degree cuts for each corner. To fix them, i used a table saw to cut a piece of timber at 45 degrees lengthways and use this to fix from either side. Very tricky to explain. Here is a really good tutorial on how to do this - ruclips.net/video/buxs3Mlwpzw/видео.html
@@leejmurphy Hi Lee - just one other thing. Some of your roof joists must be resting on the 45 degree edge - how have you secured the joist to the wall top rail in this instance?
Hi Mike - yes you're absolutely right. I cut some packer pieces at the correct angle and wedged them in place. I put a level across the length of the roof and used a hammer to drive the wedges into the correct position to lift the roof up to the correct point on the 45 degree corner. I then used L brackets on every joist to fix the roof frame to the wall frame. You can just about see it here at 7:10 - ruclips.net/video/35lxqPE8dKo/видео.html
Nicely done Mr Murphy. Your mitre saw Sir, what is it (name and model please)? My timber is being delivered tomorrow and am planning to start on Saturday, weather permitting. Thanks.
Hi Zva. Thanks for your comment. I actually bought this mitre saw several years ago when I start renovation on my house. It was a very reasonably priced entry level saw from B&Q made by Performance Power and is called a 1500W Sliding Mitre Saw. I actually can't fault it considering the amount of use it has had. Unfortunately I don't believe they sell them anymore, but they are very similar to the Mac Allister range B&Q have currently. Good luck with your build!
Hi Lucastea, thanks for your question. I didn't use acoustic sealant no (although I use this later in the build for filling joints in plasterboard, door + window etc). I used a bead of general silicon under the DPC and then another bead on top before setting the wood plates over it. I didn't need to use any packers as I had the frames nice and square, and the concrete level, so luckily everything came together.
Thanks for the comment. The building has two timber framed walls spaced 1 inch apart. Checkout the first video which goes through the design in more detail
The purpose of having 2 walls is to decouple the internal and external walls. By doing this you reduce the amount of vibration that passes through the material due to the air void you create in between. There is some good reading here on the topic of soundproofing principles - www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing_101/4-elements-of-soundproofing Something to also be aware of with this decoupling technique is the 'triple lead effect' which you don't want. www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing_101/triple-leaf-effect
@@leejmurphy I know this theory from other reading but what have you done regards interstitial condensation? I am about to start cladding my build in a couple of weeks and everything I read says you need to have an air gap between the insulation and the OSB (how I did my ordinary shed) to stop condensation in the colder months. Cheers
Thanks for recording this series, I'm finding the content super useful for my build
Glad you are enjoying it. Hope to spend some time to continue adding videos to the series soon. Thanks for the comment.
Awesome man, I watched most of your build videos. I learnt a few things along the way. I'm just curious if you find the space limiting? It seems a little cramped. I guess its fine if your just putting up your TV and drums.
Hey, thanks for the comment! The space is ok for the drum kit. You could also turn it into a comfortable home office. Ultimately yes I would have loved to have made the space bigger but I was limited on the space available in my garden.
This is a great vid and very helpful. Whats to stop your base plate or sole plate timbers from getting wet? Is there not a risk of them doing so by building without a brick course?
Thanks Owain, glad you are finding the videos helpful. By laying down the DPC it will stop the timbers from drawing up any moisture from the concrete floor itself. The wall cladding and protective membrane will cover up the sides of the baseplate and with a slight overlap, there is really no way any water is going to come into contact with it
Great . I really love the heavy metal misic on these . Is that ACDC ?
Thanks. No, just stock RUclips music 😀
What size timbers did you use for the shuttering?
Great videos - thanks for sharing. Could you share a little more detail about how you finished the wall edges where they joint at 135 degrees and how you secured the 2 walls together. I understand how to this for 90 degree joints but 135 degree??
Hi Mike, Yes absolutely. The trick is to cut 22.5 degree cuts for each corner. To fix them, i used a table saw to cut a piece of timber at 45 degrees lengthways and use this to fix from either side. Very tricky to explain. Here is a really good tutorial on how to do this - ruclips.net/video/buxs3Mlwpzw/видео.html
@@leejmurphy Thanks Lee - its like magic!
@@leejmurphy Hi Lee - just one other thing. Some of your roof joists must be resting on the 45 degree edge - how have you secured the joist to the wall top rail in this instance?
Hi Mike - yes you're absolutely right. I cut some packer pieces at the correct angle and wedged them in place. I put a level across the length of the roof and used a hammer to drive the wedges into the correct position to lift the roof up to the correct point on the 45 degree corner. I then used L brackets on every joist to fix the roof frame to the wall frame. You can just about see it here at 7:10 - ruclips.net/video/35lxqPE8dKo/видео.html
Nicely done Mr Murphy. Your mitre saw Sir, what is it (name and model please)? My timber is being delivered tomorrow and am planning to start on Saturday, weather permitting. Thanks.
Hi Zva. Thanks for your comment. I actually bought this mitre saw several years ago when I start renovation on my house. It was a very reasonably priced entry level saw from B&Q made by Performance Power and is called a 1500W Sliding Mitre Saw. I actually can't fault it considering the amount of use it has had. Unfortunately I don't believe they sell them anymore, but they are very similar to the Mac Allister range B&Q have currently. Good luck with your build!
Just wondering if you used any acoustic sealant under the walls? Did you need to use any packers under the plates?
Hi Lucastea, thanks for your question. I didn't use acoustic sealant no (although I use this later in the build for filling joints in plasterboard, door + window etc). I used a bead of general silicon under the DPC and then another bead on top before setting the wood plates over it. I didn't need to use any packers as I had the frames nice and square, and the concrete level, so luckily everything came together.
What software did you use for the drawings and design
It is SketchUp for Web, which is the free version
Where are there double walls?
Thanks for the comment. The building has two timber framed walls spaced 1 inch apart. Checkout the first video which goes through the design in more detail
@@leejmurphy why is this for sound deadening?
The purpose of having 2 walls is to decouple the internal and external walls. By doing this you reduce the amount of vibration that passes through the material due to the air void you create in between. There is some good reading here on the topic of soundproofing principles - www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing_101/4-elements-of-soundproofing
Something to also be aware of with this decoupling technique is the 'triple lead effect' which you don't want. www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing_101/triple-leaf-effect
@@leejmurphy Thank you sir
@@leejmurphy I know this theory from other reading but what have you done regards interstitial condensation? I am about to start cladding my build in a couple of weeks and everything I read says you need to have an air gap between the insulation and the OSB (how I did my ordinary shed) to stop condensation in the colder months. Cheers