As far as I am concerned you with the award for being the best Zero Aftermarket Fabricator. Atta boy. Don't you think Zero should take a queue from you? I do.
Haha thanks man, but Hollywood Electrics does waaaay better work than I could ever hope to. And I'm taking forever getting anything done. Thanks for the compliments though, and I'm glad you're enjoying these videos!
Thanks! I do computer animation at work, so I try to add a bit of 3D stuff into all the videos. Everything else, I'm learning as I go. Glad you enjoy these! I'll try and make them more often.
Great video again. Love to see the details with putting connections 👍 Waiting for my 2.5 bellypan option. I will start with the 3.3kW option first because of 💰💶
Awesome! I'm in dialogue with DigiNow right now to try to figure out the best solution for me. I thought I wanted 4 chargers, but it looks like for my setup 3 is really the max usable, and that will simplify things. I'm still trying to wrap my head around how these chargers work individually and together, and this vid helped with that. I'm in Australia and also have a Tesla, and would like to be able to quick charge with my Tesla wall connector (Mennekes) at home and at Type 2 and Tesla chargers on the go, but have the flexibility of also using J1772 and regular wall outlets while touring if that's all I can find. 3-phase sockets would be a bonus. It all seems doable, but the question is how to do the wiring to make the various options the least painful to set up on the road. P.S. I know your bike is going to look awesome when you're done, but I'd like mine to stay as stock as possible.
Thanks for watchin'! I'm in the same boat as you, with way too many adapter options. I feel like your best bet would be to have one big Mennekes T2 inlet hooked up to the chargers all the time (since you could use that at home and out in the wild). There are more Tesla destination chargers popping up all the time, and I feel like Mennekes is the standard going forward for Europe / Aus / NZ. You'd just need a Mennekes-to-wall cable, and to turn the power down from 9.9kW to something like 1.8kW. Good luck, man! The belly pan really seems like the way to go to keep that stock look :D
Mark Haury Wait what, Australia still hasn't chosen a "national standard" for AC charging? That's insane! It's 2018, make up your mind.(and choose the superior Mennekes ;P)
Dump the pump Lots of Chademo + CCS about to be installed for DC fast charging, and Mennekes Type 2 is common for the higher end of AC (up to about 23 kW) while J1772 is usually for slow (7 kW and below) AC charging. It's not really the lack of standards that's the problem, it's that 89% of the population lives in the few big cities, and most of the rest lives within 50 km of the ocean. That means the charging infrastructure is very spotty and if you want to tour across the whole country you'd better be prepared for every possible type of charging connection, including standard household outlets.
@@awo1fman Type 2 3 phase is up to 43kW. The only EV I know of is the Renault Zoe which has that capacity. Most are at or below 11kW. The connector has a pin called CP which carries a 1kHz square wave. The duty cycle of that square wave tells the vehicle the capacity of the charge station. if the duty cycle is 5% you are connected to a DC fast charger and the communication is overlaid on the DC lines.
@@moestrei Actually the standard is designed for up to 50 kW. No vehicle has a built-in charger capable of that, but that is irrelevant to the capability of the connector. Also, "duty cycle" refers to a fixed period square waveform, and while most AC chargers that don't require fees or actually identify vehicles using the standard's signalling capability take the lazy route of sending a fixed signal, the correct term is PWM for a square wave with varying period that transmits information. The signal can be used for the car and the charge station to talk to each other and automatically take care of identification and fee paying without having to use any kind of RFID or credit card just like Tesla owners only have to plug in and go, but again the fact that no one uses that capability doesn't mean the capability is not there. And it *ought to be* built in to every vehicle whether they think it's necessary or not. I understand the standards perfectly well. But the DigiNow chargers are not standard and are not OEM to the Zero. So one needs to be careful to get the wiring exactly correct, and the chargers don't communicate with the bike or the charger in exactly the same way that the OEM charger does. That's what I'm trying to understand. It's weird that with the DigiNow setup you have to turn the bike on and flip an add-on switch to initiate charging, neither of which is true of the standard Zero charger. It appears that the optional Charge Tank *does* require you to turn on the bike, and it's that circuit that the DigiNow chargers use, explaining why that step is necessary. The extra switch is to add compatibility with chargers that delay the start of charging, which the Zero Charge Tank never could do. But it's apparently a finicky and trial-and-error process and it would be nice if that could be automated. Apparently electric cars work fine with those chargers, so it must be possible. The other two issues are that with the DigiNow chargers you have to be careful of what you are plugging into and not try to plug a 3.3 kW charger into a 1.5 kW circuit without first turning down the charger, which can currently only be done with a generic app that isn't very user-friendly, and plugging into a standard wall outlet from a Mennekes inlet means you have to know which charger is connected to that phase of the connector and turn it down. Then you have to make sure that all the chargers are turned all the way up to get the most out of them when you are plugged into an actual Type 2 charger. It's all very fiddly and not user-friendly. Very much the opposite of plug-and-play.
This is the info I was looking for! My stock charger has died. This charger is apparently a consumable item, as they all die. It is 2022, now. I would like to get just a single 3.3 kw charger and the appropriate controller for it and that will be plenty fine for me. Is such a charging unit and controller available now, in 2022? My ride is a 2014 SR (am 3rd owner)
Hey Thomas! Message Lennart Otten: facebook.com/OttenElektromobilitaet/ I think he still sells 3.3kW chargers for Zeros. Otherwise Zero sells 1kW chargers you can keep in your garage for overnight charging. They don't mount to the bike though. Good luck!
@@NewZeroland thanks for your reply! I have ordered a 1 kw charger and that will work for me...no worse than the stock charger, and maybe less likely to fail. Am going to be using your vid to remove the old charger.
Good video, that amp setting you choose on the phone, is it DC or AC side? Oh and with the empty fake tank(Frank?) area are you going for a power tank?
I considered a Power Tank too, but for the small amount of extra range you get extra weight up high where you don't want it, longer charge times and lose the storage compartment. It's also really expensive for what you're getting. It's not worth it for me. (Also I have a custom wrap on my bike and I would have to pay to have the new tank done to match, which I'd rather not.)
I'm not sure what it adjusts (you'd have to ask Brandon). The settings in v2.5 have a lot more options, so I'll make a video about that once I pick it up. No power tank. Just a really big hole, so there's no question it's electric ;) And I'll be able to put a travel bag in there, or maybe a helmet.
Because if it's DC you could charge faster if there's no other heavy load on that breaker. 10A at 240V(AC side) is 2.4kW but at the DC side(98-115V) it's just 1.2-ish depending on the SoC. Also a switch at every outlet is pretty handy, I wish it would be more widespread.
Thanks! I think they start a little under $2k and can go up to $3-4k depending on how many you want. Check out the digiNow facebook page. I think there may be prices there.
As far as I am concerned you with the award for being the best Zero Aftermarket Fabricator.
Atta boy.
Don't you think Zero should take a queue from you?
I do.
Haha thanks man, but Hollywood Electrics does waaaay better work than I could ever hope to. And I'm taking forever getting anything done. Thanks for the compliments though, and I'm glad you're enjoying these videos!
Future bikes! Bravo on the update, sir. Keep em coming!
I love you videos man! Whats your background? It's so cool watching you build your own parts and do all of your own electrical work :)
Thanks! I do computer animation at work, so I try to add a bit of 3D stuff into all the videos. Everything else, I'm learning as I go. Glad you enjoy these! I'll try and make them more often.
Great video again.
Love to see the details with putting connections 👍
Waiting for my 2.5 bellypan option.
I will start with the 3.3kW option first because of 💰💶
Thanks! Yeah good call. The DigiNow pan is amazing and I can't wait to get one, too!
oh, I recognize this wall j1772 holder, 3d printed the same from thingiverse !
Niiiice!
Awesome! I'm in dialogue with DigiNow right now to try to figure out the best solution for me. I thought I wanted 4 chargers, but it looks like for my setup 3 is really the max usable, and that will simplify things. I'm still trying to wrap my head around how these chargers work individually and together, and this vid helped with that. I'm in Australia and also have a Tesla, and would like to be able to quick charge with my Tesla wall connector (Mennekes) at home and at Type 2 and Tesla chargers on the go, but have the flexibility of also using J1772 and regular wall outlets while touring if that's all I can find. 3-phase sockets would be a bonus. It all seems doable, but the question is how to do the wiring to make the various options the least painful to set up on the road.
P.S. I know your bike is going to look awesome when you're done, but I'd like mine to stay as stock as possible.
Thanks for watchin'! I'm in the same boat as you, with way too many adapter options. I feel like your best bet would be to have one big Mennekes T2 inlet hooked up to the chargers all the time (since you could use that at home and out in the wild). There are more Tesla destination chargers popping up all the time, and I feel like Mennekes is the standard going forward for Europe / Aus / NZ. You'd just need a Mennekes-to-wall cable, and to turn the power down from 9.9kW to something like 1.8kW. Good luck, man! The belly pan really seems like the way to go to keep that stock look :D
Mark Haury Wait what, Australia still hasn't chosen a "national standard" for AC charging? That's insane! It's 2018, make up your mind.(and choose the superior Mennekes ;P)
Dump the pump Lots of Chademo + CCS about to be installed for DC fast charging, and Mennekes Type 2 is common for the higher end of AC (up to about 23 kW) while J1772 is usually for slow (7 kW and below) AC charging. It's not really the lack of standards that's the problem, it's that 89% of the population lives in the few big cities, and most of the rest lives within 50 km of the ocean. That means the charging infrastructure is very spotty and if you want to tour across the whole country you'd better be prepared for every possible type of charging connection, including standard household outlets.
@@awo1fman Type 2 3 phase is up to 43kW. The only EV I know of is the Renault Zoe which has that capacity. Most are at or below 11kW. The connector has a pin called CP which carries a 1kHz square wave. The duty cycle of that square wave tells the vehicle the capacity of the charge station. if the duty cycle is 5% you are connected to a DC fast charger and the communication is overlaid on the DC lines.
@@moestrei Actually the standard is designed for up to 50 kW. No vehicle has a built-in charger capable of that, but that is irrelevant to the capability of the connector. Also, "duty cycle" refers to a fixed period square waveform, and while most AC chargers that don't require fees or actually identify vehicles using the standard's signalling capability take the lazy route of sending a fixed signal, the correct term is PWM for a square wave with varying period that transmits information. The signal can be used for the car and the charge station to talk to each other and automatically take care of identification and fee paying without having to use any kind of RFID or credit card just like Tesla owners only have to plug in and go, but again the fact that no one uses that capability doesn't mean the capability is not there. And it *ought to be* built in to every vehicle whether they think it's necessary or not.
I understand the standards perfectly well. But the DigiNow chargers are not standard and are not OEM to the Zero. So one needs to be careful to get the wiring exactly correct, and the chargers don't communicate with the bike or the charger in exactly the same way that the OEM charger does. That's what I'm trying to understand. It's weird that with the DigiNow setup you have to turn the bike on and flip an add-on switch to initiate charging, neither of which is true of the standard Zero charger.
It appears that the optional Charge Tank *does* require you to turn on the bike, and it's that circuit that the DigiNow chargers use, explaining why that step is necessary. The extra switch is to add compatibility with chargers that delay the start of charging, which the Zero Charge Tank never could do. But it's apparently a finicky and trial-and-error process and it would be nice if that could be automated. Apparently electric cars work fine with those chargers, so it must be possible.
The other two issues are that with the DigiNow chargers you have to be careful of what you are plugging into and not try to plug a 3.3 kW charger into a 1.5 kW circuit without first turning down the charger, which can currently only be done with a generic app that isn't very user-friendly, and plugging into a standard wall outlet from a Mennekes inlet means you have to know which charger is connected to that phase of the connector and turn it down.
Then you have to make sure that all the chargers are turned all the way up to get the most out of them when you are plugged into an actual Type 2 charger. It's all very fiddly and not user-friendly. Very much the opposite of plug-and-play.
This is the info I was looking for! My stock charger has died. This charger is apparently a consumable item, as they all die. It is 2022, now. I would like to get just a single 3.3 kw charger and the appropriate controller for it and that will be plenty fine for me. Is such a charging unit and controller available now, in 2022? My ride is a 2014 SR (am 3rd owner)
Hey Thomas! Message Lennart Otten: facebook.com/OttenElektromobilitaet/
I think he still sells 3.3kW chargers for Zeros. Otherwise Zero sells 1kW chargers you can keep in your garage for overnight charging. They don't mount to the bike though. Good luck!
@@NewZeroland thanks for your reply! I have ordered a 1 kw charger and that will work for me...no worse than the stock charger, and maybe less likely to fail. Am going to be using your vid to remove the old charger.
@@JackpineGandy awesome! I'm glad this video can help you. Good luck with the swap and I hope your bike lasts a very long time :)
@@NewZeroland Thank you. You are a gent!
Good video, that amp setting you choose on the phone, is it DC or AC side?
Oh and with the empty fake tank(Frank?) area are you going for a power tank?
I considered a Power Tank too, but for the small amount of extra range you get extra weight up high where you don't want it, longer charge times and lose the storage compartment. It's also really expensive for what you're getting. It's not worth it for me. (Also I have a custom wrap on my bike and I would have to pay to have the new tank done to match, which I'd rather not.)
I'm not sure what it adjusts (you'd have to ask Brandon). The settings in v2.5 have a lot more options, so I'll make a video about that once I pick it up. No power tank. Just a really big hole, so there's no question it's electric ;) And I'll be able to put a travel bag in there, or maybe a helmet.
Because if it's DC you could charge faster if there's no other heavy load on that breaker. 10A at 240V(AC side) is 2.4kW but at the DC side(98-115V) it's just 1.2-ish depending on the SoC.
Also a switch at every outlet is pretty handy, I wish it would be more widespread.
Dump the pump oh yeah! I'll definitely be charging around 1.8-2kW at home, just to be safe :) Definitely an improvement over the stock charger!
Hey love your content but just curious what does one of those diginow super chargers run you $$??
Thanks! I think they start a little under $2k and can go up to $3-4k depending on how many you want. Check out the digiNow facebook page. I think there may be prices there.