I’ve recently discovered your channel and must’ve made my way through every video by now! Clear instructions from someone who obviously knows their stuff. Brilliant.
Thank you for a great video - perfectly detailed with things I would not have thought to do such as reversing it, securing in the holes and scoring the outline with a Stanley knife. Bonus: a new word for me, I'd just known them as utility knives or razor knives. Outlining and marking the deeper sections was a helpful tip, as was painting in the rebate (American English: rabbet, two more new words). I especially appreciate that you shared your discovery that while the flush bolt fit perfectly when the pin was in the down/open position, the mechanism needed more room to articulate. The cynic in me suspects other DIY channels would have discovered it, then edited the video to include a wise insight about the need to make extra room as if they had prior knowledge. Honesty, credibility, and humility - a far better craftsman than I, but you too encounter the unexpected.
Thank you from TX. You remind me of my Grandpa. He too was super knowledgeable, kind and patient was he taught. Thank you for the clear step by step instructions.
Just fitted a pair of doors exactly the same as yours and wondered about fitting the flush bolt, now I know!! Two things, one is I always use a windbag which can lift about 100 kgs so keeps the door steady while you find where you put the screwdriver and secondly I fitted a "pair maker" which is a strip of oak that fits on the slave door and means no light comes through the gap in the centre. Thanks for your help
I used to absolutely hate having to fit these in hardwood veneered doors it is made so much easier with now having cordless trim routers. These days I attach my DeWalt router to the guide rail to cut a nice straight line. This is a nightmare is a job with just a chisel and spade bits. Nice video! 👍😀
I've just found your channel, but think you are brilliant. Clear, simple instruction with the tips that take it from DIY to a professional looking job (eg, painting in the rebate before the striker plate goes on. Production quality of your vids is also impressive. Of the ones i've seen, they could pretty easily be spliced into broadcast DIY shows. big thumbs up!
Thanks and welcome. I do try to make them as clear and as well edited etc as I can. It takes a lot of time but worth it when I get comments like yours!
top tier practices and results, theres so much that goes into this sort of work that most people, at least in my experience, are completely unaware of and often don't feel they should pay for, anymore most clients are like JUST hurry! its JUST this! its JUST that! how can we get this done CHEAPER!? FASTER!? ... There's a proper way to do most construction and there are reasons for these ways, improper practices only produce problems. I used to love my work, I've let people and their modern disposable - fast - and half-assed mentality get in the way of loving what I do. -sorry this just typed out, I feel a little better now
Just found you on YT. Nice and clear sound and vision! This is one of many jobs I need to tackle and you've inspired me, ha ha. No muffled sound or mumbling. Love it. Keep up this standard 🙂
Thanks for making this video .. just about to buy one of these locks for a set of French doors .. and yes .. it is frustrating when one can't find their lipstick 🤣 .. cheers from across the pond.
A very neat and tidy result. I had the same issue and also added a bolt at the top. In my case I think a second at the bottom would have helped. Slightly amazed at how much of the door you had to hack away. As I am sure you are aware there are other bolt designs that involve removing less material, although maybe end up looking less neat.
Another lovely job, very nicely done. Thanks to you, l now have an external plug socket on my garage wall for charging the V. W. Camper without squashing the lead under the garage door. Thanks for your help.
Great video. I too use the lipstick method for finding the location of the bolt/latch. I leave one permanently in my toolbag (don't tell anyone). Your doors look like Howdens dordogne? The manufacturers literature states that the door should be sealed (to comply with warrante) including behind hinges and cut edges, I assume this would apply to the wood by the lock.
excellent, once apon a time and for multiple decades i hung doors as my lively hood... i like the way you did this. i had to plunge my rebates with a makita skill saw and follow up with a sharp chisel.... not always as precise as your nice project....!..
Excellent channel, from a new subscriber. Glad to hear that you are keeping them coming. I admire your freehand use of the router - having had plenty of router 'runaway', I always now use a template, or some sort of limiter, when routing those slots - especially on a nice looking door like that.
Thank you for a great video (just discovered your channel...a bit late). Question: why not use a pinned hinge rather then the hinges used on this door? The pins make it much easier to remove doors rather than backing out screws and the entire hinge. Certainly much easier to reinstall as there is little need for a leveling bar or airlift, or an additional hand. Additionally, the type of hinge used on this door seem less than adequate to support the weight of the door.
Another superb video 👏👏 Few observations (nothing critical): 1: that blue plastic panel lifter you used to take door out, I have the orange coloured one and yesterday move 120 sheets of 8x4 1/2” SE plasterboard. Knackered by the end but the tool is a god send. Got it a few years ago. Everyone should have one 2: brave man routing free hand. Used my trim router to cut grooves for 16mm UFH pipe in insulation board for a 30sqm floor the other day. The little router did just fine. Baked bean tin to help steady the hand for the bends for the returns of the pipe 😃 3: using a Stanley knife to score the wood before removing with chisel/router is the only civilised way to do it. I’ve seen some still use a 1” or 2” chisel to do it. The line is never straight no matter what they say 😂 Love your videos - PROPER DIY !! 👏👏
I’m about to engage in this exact project but…… I don’t have many tools as you do! A set of carving tools and without taking the door off is possible to do it? Thx!🙏🏻
Great video! What's the name of the latch you installed for the handles? I am having trouble figuring out what latch I need for my rebated double doors.
Just came across your channel and love your videos. I'm gonna work my way through them now. In your intro, there's a clip of you working in the attic with insulation... is that gonna be an upcoming video? Only asking because it's a job I will have to tackle, and seeing it done properly would be a massive help, and would keep peace in the house lol... Cheers.
Lol. Some months ago I had to refit two of these (top and bottom, on same door) to replace existing ones. The dimensions were almost the same, so I thought I only had to fill the existing screw holes and make new ones. The depth dimensions in profile looked exactly the same also, but the lever wouldn’t fully extend. It took me some time to realize that the lever locking action required a lot more clearance to work. 🤪
@@ProperDIY Watched a couple of your videos recently and it's hard to fault them. Good sound advice and more importantly quality work. I have fitted dozens of these flush bolts. (I build offices for a living and often fit double / hospital doors) If I may add my two pence worth. The screws provided are made of chrome plated cheese or a similar compound. If they are not pilot holed as you recommend they will either snap or the heads will deform. Re the long time lubrication. When I fit I use 3in one copper based spray lube as it still provides lubrication long after application. Not had one seize up yet. Keep up the good work. 30 years in the trade and still picking up tips
It only locks one door? I'm curious as to which lock would work best to turn these double doors into a lockable entrance to my bedroom. Please help with recommendations :( it seems a flush bolt would only lock one door.
Oh, no. I have a set of doors like this into the eating place. Now, I need to buy a router, some chisels, a vice, a workbench for the vice & a workshop for the workbench.
No no, you really don't need to. Just pay a carpenter to come around and do it for you. They'll only charge £200-£300 and may be able to fit you in before Christmas.
You could also put one at the bottom if you really wanted. I have underfloor heating so I'm really not keen to put even to smallest of holes in the floor!
Why not simply keep using the router to go deeper and also it would have been so much easier to make a simple jig and use the router accurately so now need for a chisel - except for the corners of course.
Don’t know if my mind was playing tricks on me but it really looked like it was the bottom of the door and not the top you were working in when it was locked in the vice
No, definitely at the top however I did double and triple check before starting to work on it. That would be very embarrassing, after all that work, to find I put it in bottom!
@@ProperDIY I think he/she means the air wedges you can inflate to raise and lower heavy items instead of the bar. I've used mine for doors because they stay at the same height once inflated no need to keep balancing on the bar. Useful items.
@@gametakeaway I do have a set however I only tried them with a door once and it took me far longer as I had to keep bending down to inflate and re adjust. I find it quicker when you can do that with your foot while standing upright ready to put in the screw.
I bought some of those airbags. I used them once to set some really heavy tiles on a shower wall. Very accurate which is what I liked. Now in bottom of my big roller toolbox. But I’ll use them again when needed (and I remember I have them) They are very strong. Very very strong actually. But a pain to use on your own. Need three hands. So it helps if the wife can stand next to you and blow 😳
I love that little Katsu router. One of my best and well used tools.
Yes, I find it does what I want at half the price for the others.
@@ProperDIY it's pretty much a copy of the makita one. Some of the knobs are a bit less polished but it does the same job.
It’s a top tool. Love mine.
I’ve recently discovered your channel and must’ve made my way through every video by now! Clear instructions from someone who obviously knows their stuff. Brilliant.
Thank you for a great video - perfectly detailed with things I would not have thought to do such as reversing it, securing in the holes and scoring the outline with a Stanley knife. Bonus: a new word for me, I'd just known them as utility knives or razor knives. Outlining and marking the deeper sections was a helpful tip, as was painting in the rebate (American English: rabbet, two more new words).
I especially appreciate that you shared your discovery that while the flush bolt fit perfectly when the pin was in the down/open position, the mechanism needed more room to articulate. The cynic in me suspects other DIY channels would have discovered it, then edited the video to include a wise insight about the need to make extra room as if they had prior knowledge. Honesty, credibility, and humility - a far better craftsman than I, but you too encounter the unexpected.
Thank you from TX. You remind me of my Grandpa. He too was super knowledgeable, kind and patient was he taught. Thank you for the clear step by step instructions.
Just fitted a pair of doors exactly the same as yours and wondered about fitting the flush bolt, now I know!! Two things, one is I always use a windbag which can lift about 100 kgs so keeps the door steady while you find where you put the screwdriver and secondly I fitted a "pair maker" which is a strip of oak that fits on the slave door and means no light comes through the gap in the centre. Thanks for your help
I used to absolutely hate having to fit these in hardwood veneered doors it is made so much easier with now having cordless trim routers. These days I attach my DeWalt router to the guide rail to cut a nice straight line. This is a nightmare is a job with just a chisel and spade bits.
Nice video! 👍😀
Thank you. I'm sure if you need to do 10 of these and you set up the router with a guide etc it helps a lot.
I've just found your channel, but think you are brilliant. Clear, simple instruction with the tips that take it from DIY to a professional looking job (eg, painting in the rebate before the striker plate goes on.
Production quality of your vids is also impressive. Of the ones i've seen, they could pretty easily be spliced into broadcast DIY shows. big thumbs up!
Thanks and welcome. I do try to make them as clear and as well edited etc as I can. It takes a lot of time but worth it when I get comments like yours!
You are class! So easy to understand, quality videos. Thank you so much. I’m ‘flushed’ with success after watching you fit a flush bolt.
top tier practices and results, theres so much that goes into this sort of work that most people, at least in my experience, are completely unaware of and often don't feel they should pay for, anymore most clients are like JUST hurry! its JUST this! its JUST that! how can we get this done CHEAPER!? FASTER!? ... There's a proper way to do most construction and there are reasons for these ways, improper practices only produce problems. I used to love my work, I've let people and their modern disposable - fast - and half-assed mentality get in the way of loving what I do.
-sorry this just typed out, I feel a little better now
Thank you. I recently divorced and having to do home repairs myself. This helped me so much.
Just found you on YT. Nice and clear sound and vision! This is one of many jobs I need to tackle and you've inspired me, ha ha. No muffled sound or mumbling. Love it. Keep up this standard 🙂
Thanks. Welcome aboard!
Lovely clean job. I wish my joiner was like this!
Brilliant videos, definitely my current favourite diy’er on RUclips
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for making this video .. just about to buy one of these locks for a set of French doors .. and yes .. it is frustrating when one can't find their lipstick 🤣 .. cheers from across the pond.
A very neat and tidy result. I had the same issue and also added a bolt at the top. In my case I think a second at the bottom would have helped. Slightly amazed at how much of the door you had to hack away. As I am sure you are aware there are other bolt designs that involve removing less material, although maybe end up looking less neat.
I wanted one at the bottom but I have underfloor heating so I decided to keep well away from drilling into the floor
Another lovely job, very nicely done.
Thanks to you, l now have an external plug socket on my garage wall for charging the V. W. Camper without squashing the lead under the garage door. Thanks for your help.
Thank you. Nice one!
Even when scoring around you can over-cut. So when I'm doing hinges for example I score the top then shuffle an mm to compensate
You will be at least 2 blades's widths larger if you score on the outside, so your compensation is basically correcting that. Good idea.
Thank you so much for this. Now I am Certified to install these😂 great video.
Great video. I too use the lipstick method for finding the location of the bolt/latch. I leave one permanently in my toolbag (don't tell anyone). Your doors look like Howdens dordogne? The manufacturers literature states that the door should be sealed (to comply with warrante) including behind hinges and cut edges, I assume this would apply to the wood by the lock.
What a smart guy - new sub here.
Knowing my luck, I'd end up fitting the flush bolt to the wrong end of the door 🤣 Just discovered your videos.... Great channel!
excellent, once apon a time and for multiple decades i hung doors as my lively hood... i like the way you did this. i had to plunge my rebates with a makita skill saw and follow up with a sharp chisel.... not always as precise as your nice project....!..
Thank you very much - that means a lot to me coming from a pro!
The production qualities on your vids are fantastic, thanks for all your hardwork! :D
Thank you very much! It does take time for sure.
'Winbags' are really good, & non-marking & non-veneer bursting solutions to raise & lower your doors. 👍
Totally agree with you. Wouldn't dream of using a bar,especially on oak veneer doors.
Excellent channel, from a new subscriber. Glad to hear that you are keeping them coming.
I admire your freehand use of the router - having had plenty of router 'runaway', I always now use a template, or some sort of limiter, when routing those slots - especially on a nice looking door like that.
Thanks. Yes I had to be careful - especially in oak
Great in-depth video, really appreciate it 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great presentation. I'd never see the wife if I had a workshop like that. Live the dream!
Thank you
Maybe that's why she seems to have pinched his lipstick... ;-)
I'm probably never going to know how to do this, but I looked through the whole video anyways, like therapy ☺️
Thats OK - I'm glad you enjoyed it
You made it look so easy, I know its not especially when working with hardwood.
Thank you - yes, a lot more difficult than a soft wood.
smart teaching ......thanks
So many good tips
Thank you for a great video (just discovered your channel...a bit late). Question: why not use a pinned hinge rather then the hinges used on this door? The pins make it much easier to remove doors rather than backing out screws and the entire hinge. Certainly much easier to reinstall as there is little need for a leveling bar or airlift, or an additional hand. Additionally, the type of hinge used on this door seem less than adequate to support the weight of the door.
Awesome Job...
Another superb video 👏👏
Few observations (nothing critical):
1: that blue plastic panel lifter you used to take door out, I have the orange coloured one and yesterday move 120 sheets of 8x4 1/2” SE plasterboard. Knackered by the end but the tool is a god send. Got it a few years ago. Everyone should have one
2: brave man routing free hand. Used my trim router to cut grooves for 16mm UFH pipe in insulation board for a 30sqm floor the other day. The little router did just fine. Baked bean tin to help steady the hand for the bends for the returns of the pipe 😃
3: using a Stanley knife to score the wood before removing with chisel/router is the only civilised way to do it. I’ve seen some still use a 1” or 2” chisel to do it. The line is never straight no matter what they say 😂
Love your videos - PROPER DIY !! 👏👏
Thank you. Agree with all your comments - 120 boards - you must be a lot younger than me!
@@ProperDIY I’m 47. I ached for 3 days...
I’m about to engage in this exact project but…… I don’t have many tools as you do! A set of carving tools and without taking the door off is possible to do it? Thx!🙏🏻
Very helpful, thanks.
I wonder why you didn't put one at the bottom of the door, too?!
I have underfloor heating (plastic water filled pipe in concrete) so I didn't want any risk of drilling into them to make the locating hole.
Great video! What's the name of the latch you installed for the handles? I am having trouble figuring out what latch I need for my rebated double doors.
Another great video thanks 😊
Glad you enjoyed it
Just came across your channel and love your videos. I'm gonna work my way through them now.
In your intro, there's a clip of you working in the attic with insulation... is that gonna be an upcoming video? Only asking because it's a job I will have to tackle, and seeing it done properly would be a massive help, and would keep peace in the house lol... Cheers.
Thanks! Yes I will be soon
brilliant job matey
Thanks
Cheers for this we all like a nice tight accurate fit, also I've got your lipstick you left round mine last night.
Lol. Some months ago I had to refit two of these (top and bottom, on same door) to replace existing ones. The dimensions were almost the same, so I thought I only had to fill the existing screw holes and make new ones. The depth dimensions in profile looked exactly the same also, but the lever wouldn’t fully extend. It took me some time to realize that the lever locking action required a lot more clearance to work. 🤪
I know the feeling
Lovely job 👍
Thank you! 😊
Very nicely done. Cracking bolt price too, thought it would be more than that. Cheers.
Thank you - so did I! Let's hope it doesn't corrode and fall apart over the next 6 months!
@@ProperDIY Watched a couple of your videos recently and it's hard to fault them. Good sound advice and more importantly quality work. I have fitted dozens of these flush bolts. (I build offices for a living and often fit double / hospital doors) If I may add my two pence worth. The screws provided are made of chrome plated cheese or a similar compound. If they are not pilot holed as you recommend they will either snap or the heads will deform. Re the long time lubrication. When I fit I use 3in one copper based spray lube as it still provides lubrication long after application. Not had one seize up yet. Keep up the good work. 30 years in the trade and still picking up tips
@@georgepritchard3010 Good advice - nothing like experience!
There's no way on God's earth that I'll ever be fitting a flush bolt to a door, but that was an ace video! 👍👍👍
Thank you
Like a glove
Yep. Be sure to see the video I'm publishing this coming Friday
Neat job. Thanks for the tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Inset magnets door and frame so they grab into position but swing when pushed?
Nice Neat Job, Great Video
Thank you
Neat lock - even neater job/vlog...
Thanks 👍
Great video ,the chisels you use what make are they?
Mainly just cheap ones plus a couple from Stanley
Thank You Sir...👍
Does a flush bolt compromise the integrity of the door?
Nice job
Thank you
What size bit did you use for your router?
Have you. It got a door pair trim piece?
It only locks one door? I'm curious as to which lock would work best to turn these double doors into a lockable entrance to my bedroom. Please help with recommendations :( it seems a flush bolt would only lock one door.
Traditionally if you want both lockable then you really need 2 of these (top and bottom) on one side and then a standard mortise lock on the other.
You need to invest in a Wurth Amo Bag.
I didn’t see how you actually routed the top of the flush bolt rebate. Was it free hand like the side.
Yes freehand
Cheers,thank you.
Iv been fitting them in double doors for years and theyve gone up in price loads
Great job and I hope you find your lipstick
Thanks
“I couldn’t find mine” 😂
Nice work. Even a basic DIY'er like myself can follow this. Thank you for the videos, I find them very, very helpful. p.s. beautiful home!
Thank you very much!
Exallent !
Thank you
Oh, no. I have a set of doors like this into the eating place. Now, I need to buy a router, some chisels, a vice, a workbench for the vice & a workshop for the workbench.
No no, you really don't need to. Just pay a carpenter to come around and do it for you. They'll only charge £200-£300 and may be able to fit you in before Christmas.
Only 1 fitted? Or do you need 2?
You could also put one at the bottom if you really wanted. I have underfloor heating so I'm really not keen to put even to smallest of holes in the floor!
@@ProperDIY A thermal camera shows-up underfloor heating pipes brilliantly...!
Tidy 👍
How about aluminium door?
NOOICE!
Why not simply keep using the router to go deeper and also it would have been so much easier to make a simple jig and use the router accurately so now need for a chisel - except for the corners of course.
Don’t know if my mind was playing tricks on me but it really looked like it was the bottom of the door and not the top you were working in when it was locked in the vice
No, definitely at the top however I did double and triple check before starting to work on it. That would be very embarrassing, after all that work, to find I put it in bottom!
@@ProperDIY optical illusion then!
the curse of second guessing gets us all at times!
Could of made a router template, it would be much quicker, and more professional, especially when doing more than one.
But I only did one - it's in the video! Would have taken me longer to make the template than to do the job!
Waiting for your video tutorial.
Get yourself some winbags/ airbags.....you can thank me later......nice job !
Thanks. I've already got them - what for?
@@ProperDIY I think he/she means the air wedges you can inflate to raise and lower heavy items instead of the bar. I've used mine for doors because they stay at the same height once inflated no need to keep balancing on the bar. Useful items.
@@gametakeaway I do have a set however I only tried them with a door once and it took me far longer as I had to keep bending down to inflate and re adjust. I find it quicker when you can do that with your foot while standing upright ready to put in the screw.
@@ProperDIY whatever works for you is a good way 👍🏽
I bought some of those airbags. I used them once to set some really heavy tiles on a shower wall. Very accurate which is what I liked. Now in bottom of my big roller toolbox. But I’ll use them again when needed (and I remember I have them)
They are very strong. Very very strong actually. But a pain to use on your own.
Need three hands. So it helps if the wife can stand next to you and blow 😳
Knock the pins out the hinges next time!
If you mean on the door they are fixed pins that can't be taken out.
I always use lipstick bro, never a pencil.
£13 at screwfix now. Bandits.
I think a router with a fence attached would have been more accurate
Yes, ss long as you have a router and a fence.
Waiting for your video tutorial.
Nice music
Thanks
Nice job
Thank you