Hej Kim, I will be removing my caliper to clean/replace the caliper piston. I have never really removed the fluid from the system before...only bleed and replace as necessary, never empty the system, and wonder if there is a best method, or most convenient method to do this. Any experience tips are welcome. Thanks!
The only hard part is pushing the piston out of the caliper and to do that you don't want to grab it with anything cuz you don't want to scratch it. I used a tip on the end of my compressor line that allow me to basically squirt air through the bleed valve that I removed into the caliper itself and push the piston out. Other than that it's basically just replacing it replacing the seals and putting it back together.
I have the same model bike but with dual discs and also felt like the braking power was weak. I think most of that is just how the lever feels. You've got to squeeze it more than you think so the stopping power is there. I've heard the best thing to do is grab a 13 mm master cylinder off another airhead, mine has a 17 mm diameter. It supossedly has better feel and requires much less travel.
i have to be honest, aftert all the work I did, it stops very well. Nothing like my RT, but even my friends that have ridden it before and after say they feel much safer stopping. But. I wanted to keep it original so I didnt upgrade. Long fast hard rides, I take the RT.
I cross threaded the bleader nipple and then stripped it. Any recommendation so that i dont have to replace the ATE Caliper? Also there is a slotted screw on the bottom to remove the caliper, although it keeps turning without coming out, Am i missing something or is there a trick to remove the screw. Its about half an inch at bottom of fork and if removed would allow me to remove caliper.
Just a question: is the brake handle on the left hand side in the UK? (around 2:20). Where I live (Norway) we have clutch on the left hand, and brake on the right hand. Otherwise i liked your video a lot. I have a 1980 R80/7 Police myself, and compared to my Ducati M1000S there are almost no brakes at all, even if I have 2 discs. One of the discs is warped, so I will order a new one from UK. (Motorworks or Motobins). Are there any other good places to buy BMW parts in the UK? I have used Motorworks a lot with good results. I see there are different discs for the R80, shallow and deep. How do I measure this? Another question: in the video you showed as a cable. The only cable I have seen on my bike is for the clutch. The front brakes have a chain from the handlebar to down under the tank, and is hydraulically operated from there to the calipers. In the rear (drum) there is a rod. Sorry for my bad english!
Hey Jim I’m having the same problem with a 1980 R100rt front wheel is locked up and I can’t see how to disassemble my calipers to repair properly please advise
In 1981, I bought a 78 R100/7 with 8000 miles on it, and rode it for 11 years and 140,000 miles. The brakes were always woefully inadequate. Back then, cast iron rotors were claimed to improve the brakes, but they were said to rust quickly. I just tolerated it till I sold the bike in the early 1990s. Also had an R90/6, and R65; same pathetic brakes. Later, had a 79 R100RT and an 82 R100RT. One of. them had a disc rear brake (forgot which one), and both had dual front discs. Both of the RTs were marginally better than the others, but still woefully inadequate for modern roads. I now have a 95 R100RT, and the front brake is much improved over any twin-shock Airhead I ever rode, but could definitely be better. Disappointingly, and unbelievably, the 95 still has the same pathetic rear brake as all the others had. With the rear brake (and dangerous side stand), those bikes should not have been allowed import to USA, in my opinion.
@@KimMoonbmwmoonie yep, sure, yours is working 'great' now. They did not work great even when new, always marginal at best. I still love them though. Enjoy yours, but be careful.
@@joecephus4151 honestly, It stops me so well, the front end dives. It never did before i did the work on it. Its not like my K1600GT, but then I'm not riding it like that. and compared to it not stopping me at all when riding the Tail of the Dragon, I feel very safe now. My friends that have ridden it both ways say the same. Huge improvement. Thanks
Hi Kim! This is great! I have a "brand new" 1978 R100/7, my first airhead, and I am REALLY interested in knowing more details about what you had to do to leave your ATEs in such an enviable condition! I am not too mechanically savvy, to be honest, but I intend to work on the bike and take it to a mechanic just when it is inevitable. What do you suggest?
Hej Kim, I will be removing my caliper to clean/replace the caliper piston. I have never really removed the fluid from the system before...only bleed and replace as necessary, never empty the system, and wonder if there is a best method, or most convenient method to do this. Any experience tips are welcome. Thanks!
The only hard part is pushing the piston out of the caliper and to do that you don't want to grab it with anything cuz you don't want to scratch it. I used a tip on the end of my compressor line that allow me to basically squirt air through the bleed valve that I removed into the caliper itself and push the piston out. Other than that it's basically just replacing it replacing the seals and putting it back together.
I have the same model bike but with dual discs and also felt like the braking power was weak. I think most of that is just how the lever feels. You've got to squeeze it more than you think so the stopping power is there. I've heard the best thing to do is grab a 13 mm master cylinder off another airhead, mine has a 17 mm diameter. It supossedly has better feel and requires much less travel.
i have to be honest, aftert all the work I did, it stops very well. Nothing like my RT, but even my friends that have ridden it before and after say they feel much safer stopping. But. I wanted to keep it original so I didnt upgrade. Long fast hard rides, I take the RT.
I cross threaded the bleader nipple and then stripped it. Any recommendation so that i dont have to replace the ATE Caliper? Also there is a slotted screw on the bottom to remove the caliper, although it keeps turning without coming out, Am i missing something or is there a trick to remove the screw. Its about half an inch at bottom of fork and if removed would allow me to remove caliper.
From what I recall the screw comes out and there is a spring behind it. As far as the bleeder Mollie, you'll need to re-tap it. Good luck.
Just a question: is the brake handle on the left hand side in the UK? (around 2:20). Where I live (Norway) we have clutch on the left hand, and brake on the right hand. Otherwise i liked your video a lot. I have a 1980 R80/7 Police myself, and compared to my Ducati M1000S there are almost no brakes at all, even if I have 2 discs. One of the discs is warped, so I will order a new one from UK. (Motorworks or Motobins). Are there any other good places to buy BMW parts in the UK? I have used Motorworks a lot with good results. I see there are different discs for the R80, shallow and deep. How do I measure this? Another question: in the video you showed as a cable. The only cable I have seen on my bike is for the clutch. The front brakes have a chain from the handlebar to down under the tank, and is hydraulically operated from there to the calipers. In the rear (drum) there is a rod. Sorry for my bad english!
The video was backwards when it recorded. Eventing is on the same side.
Hey Jim
I’m having the same problem with a 1980 R100rt front wheel is locked up and I can’t see how to disassemble my calipers to repair properly please advise
sorry, for some reason , im not getting my notifcations on replies.... I assume you sorted out the problem.
In 1981, I bought a 78 R100/7 with 8000 miles on it, and rode it for 11 years and 140,000 miles. The brakes were always woefully inadequate. Back then, cast iron rotors were claimed to improve the brakes, but they were said to rust quickly. I just tolerated it till I sold the bike in the early 1990s. Also had an R90/6, and R65; same pathetic brakes. Later, had a 79 R100RT and an 82 R100RT. One of. them had a disc rear brake (forgot which one), and both had dual front discs. Both of the RTs were marginally better than the others, but still woefully inadequate for modern roads. I now have a 95 R100RT, and the front brake is much improved over any twin-shock Airhead I ever rode, but could definitely be better. Disappointingly, and unbelievably, the 95 still has the same pathetic rear brake as all the others had. With the rear brake (and dangerous side stand), those bikes should not have been allowed import to USA, in my opinion.
huh,, and mine is working great now that i rebuilt all of it. Sorry you have such a dislike for the bikes. They are now highly sought after.
@@KimMoonbmwmoonie yep, sure, yours is working 'great' now. They did not work great even when new, always marginal at best. I still love them though. Enjoy yours, but be careful.
@@joecephus4151 honestly, It stops me so well, the front end dives. It never did before i did the work on it. Its not like my K1600GT, but then I'm not riding it like that. and compared to it not stopping me at all when riding the Tail of the Dragon, I feel very safe now. My friends that have ridden it both ways say the same. Huge improvement. Thanks
Hi Kim! This is great! I have a "brand new" 1978 R100/7, my first airhead, and I am REALLY interested in knowing more details about what you had to do to leave your ATEs in such an enviable condition! I am not too mechanically savvy, to be honest, but I intend to work on the bike and take it to a mechanic just when it is inevitable. What do you suggest?
Like I said in the video. I rebuilt the master cylinder and caliper and replaced all the components. No magic, just all new.
So much talking!! Blablanlabla
huh, I thought i removed you from the required viewing list......