Thank you so much for the Video It Help Me A Lot. Thanks to This Vídeo I Already Fix My Radio. I have a Radio Just Like Your and It Used to Do The Same Noise At The First Begining But After I Change The 2 Capacitors you Change It Work Just Fine. Thank you Again For the Video👍🏼
I think I would investigate to see if behind the tuning knob if that gold color background piece was removable, and if so was there an access hole for a screw to fasten to the tuning capacitor? I enjoy how you let your audience know what you’re thinking as you proceed down the troubleshooting path on your projects.
I have a "Select-A-Tenna" loop antenna that sits on my Admiral tube clock radio-I listen to WSM Nashville on weekend winter nights from my home near Syracuse NY
There might have been a screw under the plate holding the tuning cap in place and if they didn't make an opening for access to the screw in the front under the tuning knob then you would have to remove the dial background plate to get at the screw and then putting it back would have been a pain because you would have to line up the dial pointer when you put everything back together
rob titheridge That would increase the AF amplification and may cause oscillations. Bad sound quality is often a cause of inefficient speaker and too small and flimsy cabinet. But you are right in that one could have elminated other possibilities; too high quiescent current on the output tube can put the output transformer near saturation. And reason can be a leaky coupling cap C10 in the couplet. But its easy to check; just measure grid voltage on the output tube. A less than 1 minute check that may eventually save the ouput tube and output transformer. Was it done? If yes then off camera.
As with most AA5 clones the AC runs through one half of the rectifier filament (in this case from pin 4 to pin 6 of 35W4) before it splits off to continue feeding the hearter string on one hand (out Pin 3) and the Plate of the rectifier (pin 5) to become rectified B+. So good thing there was hum and the electrolytics were changed and not left to reform or short eventually. But(!!!) there is also cap C12 0.047mfd between the plate of the 35W4 and ground. If you follow the path of the current flow, you will see that this cap is effectively across the line, just that it has one half of the 35W4 filament as fuse... So bad call not to replace that red C12 (unless it was done off video, but at 28:53 the solder joints on that cap look untouched). And even more; I would have relocated the proper new class X cap to go directly across the line, so that its current does not pass half the filament. (relocate its connection to Pin 5/6 of 35W4 to pin 4) even if that means tacking it onto the bottom of the PCB. Because modern X caps can short too... And one other thing to ponder is getting rid of that filament acting as a fuse thing alltogether, by cutting the connection Pin5 to 6 on the 35W4 and route pin 5 to Pin 4 instead (feeding the AC directly into the plate) and adding in a proper fuse with an in line fuse holder.
I hate those crappy printed circuit boards they used. No decent ground-plane afforded. Cooked tube sockets and fire hazards. Isn't it bad enough they are hot chassis hazards.
![Electronic Circuitry Diagnosis And Fault Finding! [Repair]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LC7OjuYAOQE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Electronic Circuitry Diagnosis And Fault Finding! [Repair]](/img/tr.png)
Nice Video Mr. Very Helpful to me. Thank you for taking your time to make the video👍🏼
Thank you so much for the Video It Help Me A Lot. Thanks to This Vídeo I Already Fix My Radio. I have a Radio Just Like Your and It Used to Do The Same Noise At The First Begining But After I Change The 2 Capacitors you Change It Work Just Fine. Thank you Again For the Video👍🏼
Tell me more about that external antenna. I live in a brick house with a metal roof and could use something like that for my old AM radios.
I think I would investigate to see if behind the tuning knob if that gold color background piece was removable, and if so was there an access hole for a screw to fasten to the tuning capacitor?
I enjoy how you let your audience know what you’re thinking as you proceed down the troubleshooting path on your projects.
I have a "Select-A-Tenna" loop antenna that sits on my Admiral tube clock radio-I listen to WSM Nashville on weekend winter nights from my home near Syracuse NY
There might have been a screw under the plate holding the tuning cap in place and if they didn't make an opening for access to the screw in the front under the tuning knob then you would have to remove the dial background plate to get at the screw and then putting it back would have been a pain because you would have to line up the dial pointer when you put everything back together
Hi jim i wounder if it would be worh adding a cathode bypass cap to the output valve to help with sound quality?
rob titheridge That would increase the AF amplification and may cause oscillations. Bad sound quality is often a cause of inefficient speaker and too small and flimsy cabinet. But you are right in that one could have elminated other possibilities; too high quiescent current on the output tube can put the output transformer near saturation. And reason can be a leaky coupling cap C10 in the couplet. But its easy to check; just measure grid voltage on the output tube. A less than 1 minute check that may eventually save the ouput tube and output transformer. Was it done? If yes then off camera.
Great video.You sure got some really nice radios in that deal.
I think that radio has two screws in the back. Yours seems like they are missing.. Holds the inners tight. thanks
It works...
Translation: I plugged it in and the power light came on.
As with most AA5 clones the AC runs through one half of the rectifier filament (in this case from pin 4 to pin 6 of 35W4) before it splits off to continue feeding the hearter string on one hand (out Pin 3) and the Plate of the rectifier (pin 5) to become rectified B+. So good thing there was hum and the electrolytics were changed and not left to reform or short eventually. But(!!!) there is also cap C12 0.047mfd between the plate of the 35W4 and ground. If you follow the path of the current flow, you will see that this cap is effectively across the line, just that it has one half of the 35W4 filament as fuse... So bad call not to replace that red C12 (unless it was done off video, but at 28:53 the solder joints on that cap look untouched). And even more; I would have relocated the proper new class X cap to go directly across the line, so that its current does not pass half the filament. (relocate its connection to Pin 5/6 of 35W4 to pin 4) even if that means tacking it onto the bottom of the PCB. Because modern X caps can short too... And one other thing to ponder is getting rid of that filament acting as a fuse thing alltogether, by cutting the connection Pin5 to 6 on the 35W4 and route pin 5 to Pin 4 instead (feeding the AC directly into the plate) and adding in a proper fuse with an in line fuse holder.
I have a Pye P45 radio that has a very bad hum
Video booster from 10 min into 42:58
I hate those crappy printed circuit boards they used. No decent ground-plane afforded. Cooked tube sockets and fire hazards. Isn't it bad enough they are hot chassis hazards.
Peanut butter will remove the goo from stickers. Well most of the time.
I doubt that.
Jim Boyd And if it doesnt you can dispose of it in an environmentally safe manner; by licking it off
@@tinecrinec4769 Nope...I have used it.
I'm guessing it is the peanut oil that cuts the adhesive. I would think there are better alternatives though.
@@tommybewick Yes..lots of alternatives. Just thought it would be interesting to note.
...the radio HUMS because it doesn't know the WORDS?!!
(snucker-snucker-snucker!!)