Ground for relay, one fused(30-35amp) wire for supplying power to lights. Relay received power from truck computer like before. Lights used to use that wire directly, now it can only turn on the relay.
@@1kompa the relay wires go like this. Ignore colors. Coil of relay needs to be attached to ground and the positive voltage that normally would supply to the lights. in this case you see in this video I snipped the wire that powers the lights put in a connector on both ends one male one female so that I can remove my temporary fix and it runs like normal. one wire grounds the relay while the end wire coming out from the computer goes to the coil for the relay so it will turn on. the other two contacts for the Relay are an electromagnetic switch that is controlled by the coil. When the coil receives power it closes the switch. on the switch side of the relay one wire went to a fuse that goes direct to the battery. The wire that goes to the lights is on the other end of that relay switch. I hope that explanation helps you out.
Hi , couldn’t see a way to email you directly . I have the same problem , I be been able to get the lights to work by pulling and replacing the relay and or fuse . They work for a minute but then go back out . How to further diagnose this type problem ? Thanks Dan
It's built into the computer. Replacement is usually the fix. What I did is use a mosfet that was able to power something small. May be much easier to control the relay via a switch in the cab you would add.
Dan the mother ecm might have shorted out. Mine went bad because the truck hood wore the red heavy wire coming from the ecm. And shorted it. I found a new one for 1200 bucks but then found the link from. That driver who got stuck on the side of the road. Is the computer is shorted then it's junk.
I have a 2005 International 4300 and the running lights and dash lights are staying on. I removed the plug from the switches and they still are on. Do you think maybe a bad ECM? Thanks!
Most likely, I would agree, but still a chance that could be another thing like a short across one of the wires/terminals. But there is something that could possibly fix that issue. Remove all power/batteries disconnected. Give it a few minutes. Turn on lights and ignition to hopefully discharge capacitors in the truck ECM. Make sure to get any diagnostic codes before this if you need them. Then shut off lights and ignition switch, then reconnect the batteries. Try circuit again, if problems still there, look into a new/used/rebuilt/refurbished ECM for the light circuit.
@@Georges3DPrinters That worked! They are now off, but... if I turn the lights on, they stay on again until I do as you recommended, which is good enough for me. THANKS A LOT!!!
Basically the transistors/mosfets are going bad and are failing in a particular way or something else more involved. It's complicated, but if you don't mind doing it, add a battery disconnect switch like for solar battery banks or RVs. That way you just have to turn a switch, wether you use a keyed switch or just a plain on/off switch. Usually they are activated/deactivated with rotation. A toggle switch is not recommend for this situation. And get something decent, not the cheapest one.
Hi , how to email you , I have a similar problem on 2014 international. Headlights on , running lights sometimes work . Computer was read , says short circuits, any info would be appreciated, Dan
man i just drove international from hesperia to las vegas and had the bed fix and welded i guess that shorted out the markers and u live in herperia I guess i just might take a stroll over there had to have have happned just like that
Someone did a weld to the back of the frame of the truck without disconnecting battery or properly grounding the truck chassis frame. Lights not working. since then I'm guessing a wire got shorted out burn the mosfet on the main computer because that's how this stupid system is set up the control for the lights is inside an internal box paused and potted with epoxy with the onboard computer management system of the entire truck. A used one runs about $500 700 depending.
George Robles yeah I’ve replaced one because it wouldn’t read the speedometer they are spendy. I have an extra ESC swapped it out but still the dash lights and park lights won’t go off, I know this that the ESC is VIN coded. I’m just not sure what it would be.
Try full battery disconnected? Wait a while or put a resistor between +&- terminals, cause a dead short is always ruff on electronics. Eliminate that first. I am thinking residual voltage somewhere, but you may have a model with a relay that controls it. Which would surprise me if that where the case. But I know the instrument panel can be a pain to troubleshoot too, so good luck.
George Robles Yeah I’ll try that thank you! When I unplug the light switch cluster the lights are still on even on the instrument cluster. Swapped out the cluster and still doing it, definitely gonna need to trace some wires or find a schematic
First, cause always have to start with the simplest stuff first, bad bulb or dirty socket? Sounds like a bad wire or a wire that got cut/ripped/torn or whatever. Likely a hot that feeds that side. Or a ground that runds that side. Trace harness set back a ways till you see a wire that pops out for a ground connection, make sure it's actually grounded. I would check with volt meter if it's a bad ground or bad or a bad hot. Start at either end and work your way to the other looking for the bad connection on that harness, but pull the light bulb out, test wires, if lights on, then should get voltage. Have had times when a bulb was sorta put in, but not fully engaged into the socket. Causing intermittent problems. Some wire some where or some cannon plug has got a bad connection/contact/etc.
@@Georges3DPrinters thanks for the reply I'll check the wiring and see if I can find any visual damage and see if my buddy will let me use his voltmeter to find the exact issue. It was working fine until it rained , is it possible the wire got wet or damaged from the rain? If so what is my next steps?
@@Georges3DPrinters it should he noted there is 3 wires on the parkinglight/turn signal bulb and perhaps only one is water damaged , I'm thinking it's this one this sticks out from the other two because my turn signal works just fine
If water is on it, pull apart socket, let dry. Check for corrosion, likely causing bad contact. Clean. Dry. Then put a dab of bulb grease aka dielectric grease on each of the contact points. Install bulb. Will likely work if it was water at connection to bulb. Say you went through a big puddle, hard and fast, water can do some damage to things. General visual inspection should reveal a physical problem.
You're probably correct, one bad wire/contact. Turn signal has ground and intermittent voltage. On-off-on-etc. Could have sworn there is two sets of three wires. Ground plus high beams/headlights. That's one set, other is for parking light /turn signal. Really sounds like one bad connection or one filament is burnt out of a 2 filament bulb. Brake/turn signal/head lights can have dual filament bulbs.
international 7600sba, I have a problem, my instrument lights and my switch lights do not turn on backlights, the fuse is ok, I check the wiring diagram, and it says that a signal must come with A62N cable, from the panel light busbar, but I can not find the "busbar" I do not know its location, I think the problem may be that since it does not turn on any light on the instrument panel
@@Georges3DPrinters There is a cable called A62F, which goes to the busbar, from there comes the A62N, which reaches the fuse and distributes the light with dimmer effect throughout the board through the A62M and A62 cable, seriously I have searched the entire instrument panel and all the ecm area and I can't find the busbar
Can also trace the ground wires, make sure those are good. Easy way is just add a wire jumper to rear chassis ground and other end to known good ground, if lights back on, bad ground wire. Wiring diagram show ground with labels to help identify areas.
i have not read all the comments as of yet,,the brown wire you spoke of ,, you cut into,,, each end of the brown wire goes to the relay ,correct,,in your vid one is orange the other black from what i can tell
I just remembered I was using the output which was very minimal from the computer to activate a relay instead of directly turn on the headlights. There are very few occasions when you can still get an output from a fried computer in this instance I will still getting an output for the signal to turn on the headlights and this is a mosfet based circuit inside the computer and basically if you ever short out your headlights you fry the computer in the truck which is one of the dumbest things I have seen in this truck. So I'm pulling power from a battery circuit and grounding to the chassis ground next to the computer and I am using the signal for the headlights to actuate the relay so those two wires ground and output from the computer that was original for the headlights go to activate the coil of the relay the relay switch is controlling the power which is going from Battery through the 30 amp fuse into the relay that that hooks up to the headlights
Pretty sure you have a blown fuse or the switch cluster for lights has an issue. The dimmer is right there for cluster. Passengers side console has blown fuses most likely.
@@nolantallent2287 I only use the one wire, cut in two. I connected relay positive to output of computer. Ground for relay to chasis ground. The other end of cut wire, which I show in last video with the pin position. Manufacturers can change wire color between years, but keep in mind they may use same harness as long as they want, and in various models in various ways. The brown wire was not cut. The contact side of really has the other end of cut wire, that is hooked up to battery positive through the 30amp fuse.
Thank you so much. You saved my ass. Phil. Tow all and recovery llc stormville ny
Thank you.
Excellent
Great video, I'm having the same fucking problem and thanks to you I have a solution. Cheers
I have a question? So in wat cable you connected the black cable running on the rear of relay?
Ground for relay, one fused(30-35amp) wire for supplying power to lights. Relay received power from truck computer like before. Lights used to use that wire directly, now it can only turn on the relay.
Ok so relay has 4 pin. One is power other one is ground. Were do the other two wires connect? I see that the green wire its set up as ground too
@@1kompa the relay wires go like this.
Ignore colors.
Coil of relay needs to be attached to ground and the positive voltage that normally would supply to the lights. in this case you see in this video I snipped the wire that powers the lights put in a connector on both ends one male one female so that I can remove my temporary fix and it runs like normal.
one wire grounds the relay while the end wire coming out from the computer goes to the coil for the relay so it will turn on.
the other two contacts for the Relay are an electromagnetic switch that is controlled by the coil.
When the coil receives power it closes the switch.
on the switch side of the relay one wire went to a fuse that goes direct to the battery.
The wire that goes to the lights is on the other end of that relay switch.
I hope that explanation helps you out.
Hi , couldn’t see a way to email you directly . I have the same problem , I be been able to get the lights to work by pulling and replacing the relay and or fuse . They work for a minute but then go back out . How to further diagnose this type problem ? Thanks Dan
It's built into the computer. Replacement is usually the fix. What I did is use a mosfet that was able to power something small. May be much easier to control the relay via a switch in the cab you would add.
Dan the mother ecm might have shorted out. Mine went bad because the truck hood wore the red heavy wire coming from the ecm. And shorted it. I found a new one for 1200 bucks but then found the link from. That driver who got stuck on the side of the road. Is the computer is shorted then it's junk.
I have a 2005 International 4300 and the running lights and dash lights are staying on. I removed the plug from the switches and they still are on. Do you think maybe a bad ECM? Thanks!
Most likely, I would agree, but still a chance that could be another thing like a short across one of the wires/terminals. But there is something that could possibly fix that issue. Remove all power/batteries disconnected. Give it a few minutes. Turn on lights and ignition to hopefully discharge capacitors in the truck ECM. Make sure to get any diagnostic codes before this if you need them.
Then shut off lights and ignition switch, then reconnect the batteries. Try circuit again, if problems still there, look into a new/used/rebuilt/refurbished ECM for the light circuit.
@@Georges3DPrinters That worked! They are now off, but... if I turn the lights on, they stay on again until I do as you recommended, which is good enough for me. THANKS A LOT!!!
Basically the transistors/mosfets are going bad and are failing in a particular way or something else more involved. It's complicated, but if you don't mind doing it, add a battery disconnect switch like for solar battery banks or RVs. That way you just have to turn a switch, wether you use a keyed switch or just a plain on/off switch. Usually they are activated/deactivated with rotation. A toggle switch is not recommend for this situation. And get something decent, not the cheapest one.
Hi , how to email you , I have a similar problem on 2014 international. Headlights on , running lights sometimes work . Computer was read , says short circuits, any info would be appreciated, Dan
The mosfet that controls that is probably bad. Try a what I did and may see problem resolved. My email is on my RUclips channel "about me" section
would this theoretically work on my same year truck in the application of strobe lights in the refuse business
Yes.
man i just drove international from hesperia to las vegas and had the bed fix and welded i guess that shorted out the markers
and u live in herperia I guess i just might take a stroll over there had to have have happned just like that
What’s the fix for lights not working on a 2016 DuraStar box running clearance lights.?
Need all information to look up a schematic. I would trace that to soure, and see what's in the way
Nice troubleshoot, that's not a easy one
Did you do this because you couldn’t get parklights/cluster lights to turn off? Because that’s the problem I’m having
Someone did a weld to the back of the frame of the truck without disconnecting battery or properly grounding the truck chassis frame. Lights not working.
since then I'm guessing a wire got shorted out burn the mosfet on the main computer because that's how this stupid system is set up the control for the lights is inside an internal box paused and potted with epoxy with the onboard computer management system of the entire truck.
A used one runs about $500 700 depending.
George Robles yeah I’ve replaced one because it wouldn’t read the speedometer they are spendy. I have an extra ESC swapped it out but still the dash lights and park lights won’t go off, I know this that the ESC is VIN coded. I’m just not sure what it would be.
Try full battery disconnected? Wait a while or put a resistor between +&- terminals, cause a dead short is always ruff on electronics.
Eliminate that first. I am thinking residual voltage somewhere, but you may have a model with a relay that controls it. Which would surprise me if that where the case. But I know the instrument panel can be a pain to troubleshoot too, so good luck.
I am thinking your issue was the switch cluster for the lights, cause that interconnected with instrument cluster.
George Robles Yeah I’ll try that thank you! When I unplug the light switch cluster the lights are still on even on the instrument cluster. Swapped out the cluster and still doing it, definitely gonna need to trace some wires or find a schematic
Having a problem with the high beams work in but not the low beams?
Bulbs good? Be surprised how often that happens.
Otherwise I would check switch, and wires there. I am thinking it's the switch itself at moment.
@@Georges3DPrinters we checked those as well, we checked the connection to the bulb also and only high beam is getting power!!
having some issue with 205 dash problem need some help
? Like what?
My front passenger side parking lights wont turn on but the turn signal works , what may be the issue and solution??
First, cause always have to start with the simplest stuff first, bad bulb or dirty socket?
Sounds like a bad wire or a wire that got cut/ripped/torn or whatever. Likely a hot that feeds that side. Or a ground that runds that side. Trace harness set back a ways till you see a wire that pops out for a ground connection, make sure it's actually grounded.
I would check with volt meter if it's a bad ground or bad or a bad hot. Start at either end and work your way to the other looking for the bad connection on that harness, but pull the light bulb out, test wires, if lights on, then should get voltage.
Have had times when a bulb was sorta put in, but not fully engaged into the socket. Causing intermittent problems. Some wire some where or some cannon plug has got a bad connection/contact/etc.
@@Georges3DPrinters thanks for the reply I'll check the wiring and see if I can find any visual damage and see if my buddy will let me use his voltmeter to find the exact issue. It was working fine until it rained , is it possible the wire got wet or damaged from the rain? If so what is my next steps?
@@Georges3DPrinters it should he noted there is 3 wires on the parkinglight/turn signal bulb and perhaps only one is water damaged , I'm thinking it's this one this sticks out from the other two because my turn signal works just fine
If water is on it, pull apart socket, let dry. Check for corrosion, likely causing bad contact.
Clean.
Dry.
Then put a dab of bulb grease aka dielectric grease on each of the contact points.
Install bulb. Will likely work if it was water at connection to bulb.
Say you went through a big puddle, hard and fast, water can do some damage to things. General visual inspection should reveal a physical problem.
You're probably correct, one bad wire/contact. Turn signal has ground and intermittent voltage.
On-off-on-etc. Could have sworn there is two sets of three wires. Ground plus high beams/headlights. That's one set, other is for parking light /turn signal. Really sounds like one bad connection or one filament is burnt out of a 2 filament bulb. Brake/turn signal/head lights can have dual filament bulbs.
international 7600sba, I have a problem, my instrument lights and my switch lights do not turn on backlights, the fuse is ok, I check the wiring diagram, and it says that a signal must come with A62N cable, from the panel light busbar, but I can not find the "busbar" I do not know its location, I think the problem may be that since it does not turn on any light on the instrument panel
The wiring harness from the switch can be traced back to the computer on truck driver side
@@Georges3DPrinters There is a cable called A62F, which goes to the busbar, from there comes the A62N, which reaches the fuse and distributes the light with dimmer effect throughout the board through the A62M and A62 cable, seriously I have searched the entire instrument panel and all the ecm area and I can't find the busbar
Loops through the computer
Can also trace the ground wires, make sure those are good. Easy way is just add a wire jumper to rear chassis ground and other end to known good ground, if lights back on, bad ground wire. Wiring diagram show ground with labels to help identify areas.
Have you checked for voltage on the line? What's the reading?
i have not read all the comments as of yet,,the brown wire you spoke of ,, you cut into,,, each end of the brown wire goes to the relay ,correct,,in your vid one is orange the other black from what i can tell
I'm sorry could you please clarify? Apologies on my end, a person is going crazy in a comments over dumb stuff.
Been awhile since I made this video. I believe this video covers how I took a different path.
I just remembered I was using the output which was very minimal from the computer to activate a relay instead of directly turn on the headlights.
There are very few occasions when you can still get an output from a fried computer in this instance I will still getting an output for the signal to turn on the headlights and this is a mosfet based circuit inside the computer and basically if you ever short out your headlights you fry the computer in the truck which is one of the dumbest things I have seen in this truck. So I'm pulling power from a battery circuit and grounding to the chassis ground next to the computer and I am using the signal for the headlights to actuate the relay so those two wires ground and output from the computer that was original for the headlights go to activate the coil of the relay the relay switch is controlling the power which is going from Battery through the 30 amp fuse into the relay that that hooks up to the headlights
all my panel lights are not turning on but everything else works
Pretty sure you have a blown fuse or the switch cluster for lights has an issue. The dimmer is right there for cluster. Passengers side console has blown fuses most likely.
Cómo puedo prendere las luces Delos tacómetros no me prenden de un internacional 4300
Depends on problem
I wish you would go more into detail with what wires went where I can’t get a relay to work for the life of me.
Did you watch both videos? And I could have sworn I did show what wires I used.
But can do a manual separate switch.
Yes I did but I couldn’t tell where the yellow and brown wires went out I see where they came in from the firewall side
@@nolantallent2287 I only use the one wire, cut in two. I connected relay positive to output of computer. Ground for relay to chasis ground. The other end of cut wire, which I show in last video with the pin position. Manufacturers can change wire color between years, but keep in mind they may use same harness as long as they want, and in various models in various ways.
The brown wire was not cut.
The contact side of really has the other end of cut wire, that is hooked up to battery positive through the 30amp fuse.