I have one of these. It's great for working on cars. I like the clamp, the min max, the flashlight and no blown fuses. I cut off the probes and replaced them with alligator clips which are much better for working on cars. My 2 grandkids use it as a "Ghost Busters" meter and go searching for ghosts in the basement with the non-contact sensor. But they come running back up if they see a spider. Cheers from Canada :-)
Hello Robin. That’s great to hear. That’s a good idea with the alligator clips. I often use a separate set of leads that came with another meter, that gives me the option to screw on or off alligator clips. You’re right, it does make it easier. I love how your grandkids use it for ghosts. That’s funny. Take care. Your friend from southern Texas (USA).
The problem with the min max is if the measurement starts out from zero, and the auto range changes range. Then it doesn't record things properly. The 208D fixed that by having a range lock option, which is really a must have for all these auto range meters. Repeated measurements can proceed much faster with locked ranges rather than auto range all the time.
I believe mostly DC clamp is using hall effect feature, so you require to zero out (that is the way it should) right after you clamp to cancel out ambient signal. As for the temperature it should be connected to temperature probe, otherwise it just some strange floating value from your test lead, it's what I noticed.
I just picked one of these up after watching your review. I wanted one that would be suitable for automotive troubleshooting. Thanks you did a great job.
Hello John. I never got a notification for your comment. I’m just now seeing it. You’re absolutely correct. I thought the same thing when I got mine (should’ve bought it sooner), lol. I’m glad you like it. Thanks for visiting the channel and leaving a comment.
I guess I did see it. I just now clicked the like button and it took a like away. That means I liked it before. I guess I just didn’t leave a comment to your comment, lol. Anyway thanks a lot my friend.
Well I have a slew of multimeters. I started with an analog Radio Shack unit I bought back in the mid-70s in my teens. It has its uses even today. I last used it to check for smooth action of an air flow meter as I opened up the vane over its range. Then a Circuitmate DM25L DMM. Then a Radio Shack auto-ranging DMM that looks like a small calculator that I keep on the motorcycle. Then an INNOVA auto-ranging DMM that I keep in the car. Then a Fluke 88V kit auto-ranging DMM because of the quality and it was a deal. And a slew of el-cheapo $5 Harbor Freight DMMs that I can give away. And now one of these clamp meters mainly to check starter currents which is handier than the 200A shunt and my Max/Min hold DMM or TEK scope.
That’s awesome A Christian. Those old analogs meters still come in handy. I have an Innova. The Innova 3320. It’s a nice little meter. My primary DMM (at the moment) is a BSIDE ZT-M1. It has an EBTN LCD display. It’s really neat. I think it sells for about 50 bucks on Amazon. I shouldn’t know that, since it was a gift from my in-laws from this past Christmas. You should check it out, it’s pretty cool. I’ve tested it, comparing it with one of my oscilloscopes, and it did rather well. Maybe I’ll do a video on it. I’ve never had a Fluke myself. Don’t get me wrong, I would love to have one. I just think they are too proud of them, and it definitely shows in the price. I know they are great meters, and most people swear by them. I guess for now, if I need something super reliable and precise, I can just use one of my scopes. I just think (and I’ve had this conversation with a lot of people), if everyone just quit buying flukes until they lowered the prices (that goes for Snapon too), they would have no choice. Not only that, but when I bought one of my last DMM’s, I was doing some comparisons to a couple lower end flukes, and the way less expensive “non fluke” meters did more than the flukes. Anyway, I’m rambling, lol. I’m sure I’ll get a fluke some day, lol. Take care my friend.
Thank you very much! I have been looking for such a video for a long time to understand what it is about. This video really helped to understand the device ! Thank you for this video, a full explanation of the functionality! I wish you good luck and promotion of your channel ! Thanks !
Thank you Bee. I’m glad you liked it. Sometimes I think I make the videos too long, but that’s the only way I can show everything. I know when I’m thinking of buying something, I want to see everything I can about it, so I think it’s the best way. Thank you for the kind words, this motivates me to keep doing them. I really appreciate you stopping y the channel. You’re always welcome here.
It’s a good little meter, I’m sure it’ll work good for you. I did HVAC work for a little while, some years back. I never went to school for it. I just knew a guy that knew a guy that had an HVAC company and needed some help. I did mostly Rough-Ins & Equipment Sets. So basically installing the entire system in new homes. I was just learning Diagnostic work and the repairs, when the company went outs of business. Good luck with your new career. There can be good money in it. I think it was Confucius that said “If you enjoy what you do, you’ll never work another day in your life”. That’s the secret my friend. Thanks for checking out the video.
Hello Jordon, thanks for the question. I don’t work in the HVAC field, so I don’t want to lead you astray. I work in automotive diagnosis and repair, and I can say it’s good to have for that. I would think it would work for HVAC as long as you don’t need to read under 200-300 milivolts. If you need to see under that, I would recommend looking at a low amp clamp meter, that’s designed for under 100 millivolts. If you need to see between 500 millivolts and 600 Volts, I would think this would work for you. If your new in the HVAC field, I would look to see what those guys are using. Maybe check some HVAC RUclips videos and shoot a few questions their way. Good luck buddy, and thanks for watching.
@Atom’s Workshop correct works like a charm I got the 206d gets the job done for residential and commercial if you do industrial you can get the 208 because it's read up to 1k volts unlike this one reads up to 600v but i been satisfied for what I paid wasn't expensive as the other top brands like klein , fieldpiece,fluke or uei so far its been durable been having it since September of 2022
Thank you so much for this fantastic walkthrough and review. Found your video so helpful and informative. Many thanks again from the UK. All the very best Mike👍🙂
I'm in the UK and I bought one last week. I'm extremely impressed with it and I now use it as my main multimeter. I'm upgrading an old e bike with LiFeP04 batteries and I wanted to know the current draw while cycling up a hill. The max/min feature was essential for that.
@@atomsworkshop195 The bike works great electrically. Just need to build a secure box for the batteries. It's a 24 volt bike that had a huge heavy nickel metal hydride battery. Needless to say it was pretty useless. Runs great on LiFeP04 (2 miady 7.2ah batteries in series). Peace of mind too. The BMS in the battery trips if a catastrophic overload occurs.
I had a period of time where I couldn’t stop buying multimeters, amp clamps, and other diagnostic equipment lol. I could probably open up a small retail electronics store if I wanted to, 😂
@@atomsworkshop195 I can feel with you, I bought recently 3 new multimeters, but luckily they are dirt cheap here in Thailand. I payed for this one only 12 Dollars incl. shipping, it calls Habotest HT206D here and the other two are Aneng M118A (4 Dollars inlc. shipping)and Aneng A3004 (3 Dollars incl. shipping). All of them i like, the Anengs are significant quicker than the Habotest and accurate too. The Aneng M118A is the easiest I ever had to operate and the pen style A3004 is the fastest to use and they complete each other in current range (A3004 up to 200mA and M118A 20mA plus). I wish you a lot of pleasure with your equipment and yes I'll keep you updated how they hold up : )
Thanks Bryan Woods. Yea, I love me some Hank Jr & Waylon Jennings. It’s nice to hear there’s still others out there that can appreciate good music. That’s great you got one; they’re good little meters. I use mine all the time. Thanks for stopping by the channel, my friend.
Atom’s Workshop, You should have tried the temperature on this one you might have just missed one that is accurate, I gave the temp a try and found it very accurate. Cheers mate good video.
@@atomsworkshop195 I didn't do any subtle testing with it just fridge, freezer, ambient, nothing more than that but it was accurate to the degree on all those tests compared to the digital thermometers I have installed in those appliances, it might be worth giving it a test if only to satisfy your curiosity. Cheers.
A Christian, that’s hilarious 😂. I just read that in front of the wife, lol. You are so right. Only with my wife, it’s not so much shoes as it is pajamas. My wife could cloth a battalion with the amount of pajamas she has, lol.
I use a Fluke 88 Automotive meter and Amp clamp, but this one is awesome if compared the price... Here in Italy less than 50€.....around 55 USD.... Incredible, thanks for this revue. The fuses cable adapter, where you find it?
Thanks For the comment Andrea. I bought the “fuse buddy” from Amazon. I got two sizes. The mini and ATC. They were thirteen dollars and some change apiece. $29.38 US Dollars total for both sizes.
I have the HT206B (bravo, not the delta model you have) and it is nearly identical.....the NCV/hold switch on the board was unsupported and broke off either in transit or at the first push as the outer button can over travel and shear it right off. That one feature is not robust, but the other 99% of the meter is as you found it - a good buy for the Money with some excellent features for the home-gamer.
Hello Winslow273. You should have them swap it out for a new (non-broken) one. You shouldn’t settle for a broken one. I was thinking about ordering the one you have also. I definitely like the one I have. If that ever changes, I’ll mention why in a video. I agree, definitely a good buy for the money. You don’t always have to break the bank to get a good product. When I was younger, when it came to any kind of electronics, I would only by the so called “best” (most expensive). Then a lot of my tools were stolen out of my truck in a Lowe’s parking lot. Well I had to replace everything, but couldn’t afford all the most expensive, all at once. So, I rolled the dice, purchased some reasonably priced items (after researching reviews), and I was pleasantly surprised. Since then, I’ve learned there are a lot of good companies out there selling good products at a fair price. Anyway, thanks for stopping by the Channel my friend.
@@atomsworkshop195 The difference, it seems, between the Bravo and Delta model is the Delta has he DC Clamp Ammeter, where as my Bravo does only AC Amp clamp. Trying to get a live person for the 36 month warranty is so far fruitless....for that little cash I will probably just buy a Delta at some point....
Oh, I didn’t realize it didn’t measure DC. Thanks for that Winslow273. Yea, I can understand what you’re saying about the hassle of a warranty. If you order the other one from Amazon and there is a problem with it, you could return it (within 30 days), and order another one. I wish you the best my friend.
Hello Winslow273. I was just thinking, and don’t know why I didn’t think of this the last time we spoke. Anyway, I bought a Kaiweets Multimeter (I did a video on it), and the fuse for the current was blown. I emailed them, letting them know, and they sent me out a new multimeter (letting me keep the first one). They also sent me their new smart meter to test (also did a video on). I mentioned in my email that I was going to do a review on it, so they asked if I would be interested in testing their new smart meter. Anyway, I’m sure if you emailed them, they would send out another one. Just thought I’d let you know. Someone else just commented that their NCV wasn’t working, and I instantly remembered what I just mentioned. Not sure why I didn’t think about it before. Was probably tired. Anyway, let me know what comes of it.
If you have any need for a non contact AC voltage tester, the dual sensitivity Kaiweets or Tacklife pen model with the LCD screen works very well. I just bought one through Woot for the princely sum of $8.99 👍 It works as well as the Klein NCVT2 that I misplaced, being able to easily distinguish the hot from the neutral wires of a lamp cord. The NCV tester in the amp clamp is just too sensitive to help much, as it tends to just sound off when within an arms length from an AC source. It really needs some kind of sensitivity adjustment capability for it to be useful.
Mc Skippster, thanks for that. It’s the simple truth. It doesn’t matter how many I have, there’s always another one, that looks cool, or has other features. I can never have too many. Thanks for watching. Take care my friend.
I am getting this one for my automotive classes. Was also looking at the Fluke 117and the 88 -V . any reviews on those or which i should get between those two . Awesome review and will be subscribing
Hello Gonzalo, thanks for the kind words. Honestly, I’ve never bought a fluke. I’m sure they’re great meters, I just think they are way over priced. Maybe back in the day, they were worth it, but nowadays, you can spend way less, and often get one with more features and warranty. You’ll have to make that call. I can say this one has proven itself to me, and I’m still using it. If I need to get real technical or precise, I’ll break out my scope with an amp clamp. Good luck my friend, and thank you for subscribing.
Hey there Julienne Goodell. No, it’s the stock radio. Though my 350z is the 35th anniversary edition that came with the upgraded Bose sound system. Oh yeah, they did a copyright thing on my video for that short little part with the music. I don’t want to delete that part though, so I guess they get paid for my video. At least someone gets paid for it, because I sure don’t, lol. Of course that’s not why I make them.
Thanks for the review. I was on the edge of buying one, and I'll go, I know that it's not the most accurate with voltage but still acceptable for working on cars. What do you think about the amp clamp accuracy ? You have experience and you seem to assume it's precise. I'll thrust that. I'm canadian, know nothing about country, but loved that song ! Thank you for the review.
You’re welcome. I use it plenty to do quick diagnosis oncars. It’s not the best once you get under an amp, but is good for automotive use. They have a low amp clamp they sell also. If I need to see smaller more precise numbers, I usually use my oscilloscope. With that said, for the price it’s a good and useful meter. Thanks for watching. PS, that song is “The Conversation” from Hank Williams Jr. it’s a good song. They copyrighted my video o er that little piece of the song. At least someone’s getting paid for my video (just not me), lol. Take care Diverscale.
Thanks for the review. Does the HT206D show Millivolts DC? I notice when you tested the it only showed to 2 decimal places instead of 3 and yet the spec says it measures in millivolts. thanks
I don’t have it with me at the moment, but I’m pretty sure it measures MILLIVOLTS. If I remember correctly, it wasn’t super accurate on MILLIVOLTS. I know they sell a low amp amp clamp too, that may be better for lower measurements. Good luck
Hello Smittyone66. The 18 that you saw was the amperage going from the alternator to the battery. The voltage was about 14 volts while the car was running. You can see that I switched the meter from volts to amps a couple times. A single car battery should be about 12.6 volts not running, and about 14 volts, give it take a little while running. You may be thinking of a larger truck that uses two batteries for a 24 volt system. I hope this makes sense. Thanks for watching my friend.
Thank you i will do that. Was looking for an amp meter and i loved your review on the kaiweets ht206d so i just ordered one a little while ago. Thank you so much! Am looking forward to seeing many more. Also learned about fuse buddies for automotive. Great job !
That’s great. I’m sure you’re gonna like the clamp meter. It’s a nice meter, and just the right size. Thanks checking out the channel, and for the kind words.
I love your video brother... How about the ingco6005 l believe its the same in functionality with this the kaiweets. I m trying to buy a clamp meter but still comparing this one and the ingco6005. In our place the ingco is much cheaper than this one. Any suggestion 🙏
Hey buddy. I don’t have the ingco6005, but I just pulled it up on Amazon, took out my Kaiweets, and just compared them kinda side by side; and other than one is red and the other is yellow and the names, they look like the same exact meter. The buttons, clamps, and every single symbol and number are identical, in the exact same spot. Looks like the same specs to me. I know that a lot of different tool brands are the same exact item, come from the same exact assembly line, but get different names, colors, and sold as different brands. That looks like the same here with these two clamp meter. Again, I only have the Kaiweets and can only truly speak for it. So far, I haven’t had any problems with it, and it’s still going strong. With all that in mind, I would grab the least expensive one, because if I were a betting man, my money is on they are the same product underneath the “paint job”. Good luck brother. Let me know how it turns out. Especially if you get the other brand. Come back and share with us what you think of it, so we can help others in the future.
Hello Bobo, thanks for stopping by. I can’t speak on UNI T, and ANENG, because I do t have them. I do have an BSIDE ACM91, which looks pretty similar to the UNI T. I am happy with the BSIDE ACM91; it’s a pretty good meter. The Kaiweets is pretty damn accurate. I have the HT206D. It’s a “high” amp clamp, meaning it can read up to 1,000 amps and 600 volts. Only it starts to get less accurate when you start to read the low end into to low millivolts; but as I said it’s meant for higher readings. If you need to read low MILLIVOLTS, Kaiweets offers a “low” amp clamp for that. Don’t get me wrong it’ll read the hundreds of MILLIVOLTS, it’s just when you get into the low double digits (like 10 MILLIVOLTS). I don’t remember exactly where it starts to get off a little, but you should be able to see it in my video. I can use it for pretty much all voltage and amperage readings on vehicles. If I need to get really precise, I just use my oscilloscope. I definitely recommend Kaiweets. I originally bought the Kaiweets HT118A multi meter (which is a nice, solid, and accurate meter). Anyway, I fried one of the fuses in it (completely my fault). I removed the fuse, but was having trouble finding the exact replacement fuse. I got a hold of them to ask where I could get the fuse. They insisted in sending me an entire new meter. Not only that, but they also sent me one of their new small touchscreen meters as a gift. That was pretty damn cool of them. I know I didn’t quite answer your question because I don’t have those other brands, but I will stand by and recommend this Kaiweets. I assure you it’ll will work for all (most) of your automotive and around the house needs. Let me know if you have any more questions, and thanks again for checking out my video.
@@atomsworkshop195 Thanks man for the reply I really appreciate it thank for ur time 💛 After days of reading and searching and with ur review I decided to go with the Kaiweets HT208D for DIY home and Car battery / wires diagnose it may save me money on the long run 50 $ On aliexpress + ( 7$ VAT to my country) seems a good price If HT206D is better than HT208D for my needs please let me know 👍🏼 accuracy is my main goal Thank again
Hello William Butler Sr. Thank you for the kind words, and for stopping by the channel. For the Kaiweets HT206D, the ranges are 60A & 600A. On the meter itself, using the dial, you have one option that says 60A, and another option that says 600A. Both options have AC & DC. Of course you also have the other options, V, Hz%, diode, capacitance, resistance, continuity, Celsius/Fahrenheit, and lowZ, all options with the dial. Those are on the dial, than you also have the buttons. I Know Kaiweets also has another clamp meter HT200B that has one option for2A, 20A, & one for 200A (AC only). I also, just noticed they have a new one ( new to me anyway), HT208D with one option with 60/600A, and one for 1000A. This one is AC & DC. They also have HT208A where the amperage will only read AC. Anyway, there may be other sub models (like A, B, C, etc) with other options. I hope this answered your question. Feel free to comment any time, and thank you for stopping by the channel, my friend. PS, say the options on the dial are 60A & 600A. If you want to test anything under 60 amps, you would choose 60A. If you want to test something between 60 amps and 600amps, you would choose 600A. Now if you are testing really low amps, say under 20 amps, with this example, you would choose 60A. With that said, if you used their clamp meter that has an option for 20A, and you used it to test under 20 amps, it might be more precise on the measurement. If anything, it would probably add another decimal point on the digital readout. Just something to think about. I don’t know if you know this already or not. Lord knows there was a time when I didn’t. Anyway, take care my friend.
@@atomsworkshop195 Just bought one and am disappointed in very low DC current. ie .10 - .90 amps. My cheap $10 non-clamp m-meter is very accurate in that range. It does have a ma range selector though, unlike the 206D. That should have clued me in on the HT206D for ma. I wrongly assumed that with two decimal places and all the raving reviews it would be accurate with low dc current. I read its possible to wrap the wire to be read DC current multiple times around the clamp for better low current accuracy. Do you know of this or tried it? They mentioned multiplying or dividing the number of turns times the readout, or something like that. Thank you!
Hello RidemFast, thanks for stopping by. I work mostly on automobiles, and like this meter mostly for that. If I need to look at MillIamps, I would break out my scope, and use a different low amp current clamp. Unfortunately, I am in the process of packing for a move, and all my stuff is already in stacks of boxes, so I can’t test wrapping the wire, like you mentioned. I do recall hearing about doing that, in the past, and believe it works. I should’ve been more clear in the video, to look at the other model, for milliamps. If you try the “wrap the wire” test, let me know how it works out, will ya? This could possibly help others. Thanks for stopping by the Channel my friend. Take care.
I enjoyed watching you so the features of this meter I just wish you would have been a little bit more precise on what setting the meter was on. I had mine sitting with me so I could take notes from your video and it was hard to tell what you were changing when you were pushing buttons. Other than that I really think you did a great job. I look forward to seeing your other video on the voltmeter that you were talking about early on in the video. I'm looking to get myself some better voltmeters. Like you I buy a lot of them. I probably easily have 6 or more voltmeter I still have an analog voltmeter in my toolbox. I don't do a lot of computer work I mostly do a lot of DC work. That the reason I purchased this clamp. I want to do a parasitic loss test on my vehicle and the easiest way is with a clamp meter but it can be done with any meter. Thanks for taking your time to review this item and I look forward to watching more of them. I definitely hit the like button and subscribe button.
Hello David Frank, thanks for the comment, I enjoy reading them, and often learn a lot through them. Sorry, I wasn’t real precise about what setting I was on. Sometimes when I watch some of my videos (at a later date), I feel like maybe I was too “thorough”, I guess, and I wonder if it makes it too boring to watch. However, now that you mentioned that, I’ll definitely keep it in mind in future videos. Speaking of which, I haven’t been making any lately. This will change this next month. At the moment, my wife and I are in the process of buying some property in the country. At the moment I am just too busy, between work, everything to do with the new property, packing, etc. Once I get over there I’ll have a small shop, and all the room in the world to make videos. You mentioned you mostly work with DC. This is true with me as well. I diagnose and repair vehicle’s, so I’m mostly dealing with DC. I have however, been teaching myself AC, playing and learning about transistors, resistors, power supply’s, a multitude of sensors (some that are also on vehicles), and anything else I can get my hands on, lol. I bought the ELEGOO Mega 2560 Project Ultimate Starter Kit. It’s pretty fun to play with. I’ll try and leave a link, so you can see what I’m talking about. I definitely recommend it. Since I’ll have my little shop (detached garage), I plan on making videos diagnosing cars, and whatever else I find interesting. I’m thinking about making a playlist of me showing all the different kinds of automotive diagnostic tools, with videos of how to use each one, and what I think of each particular tool, other options, etc.. Do you work on cars? I ask because you mentioned you mostly deal with DC. Oh, for the record, I still have mostly good things to say about the clamp meter, and still recommend it. I’d have to say, my biggest gripe with it, is that you can’t make the light stay on. Or if you can, I haven’t figured out how. That does get a little annoying. Oh yea, I read your comment to my wife, so she can see that having more than one meter, and still wanting another one, is not that unusual. So thanks for that, it helps my case with MRS. ATOM, lol. David, thanks again for liking the video, and thank you for subscribing. Like I said, I plan on making videos regularly once we get moved. David, my name is Adam, so if you ever have any questions, or can answer any of mine (that I ask in videos), or have any other comments, feel free to post them, and I’ll respond just as soon as I can. Thanks again my friend. Link to that electronics set I mentioned (incase you’re interested) : ELEGOO Mega 2560 Project The Most Complete Ultimate Starter Kit w/ TUTORIAL Compatible with Arduino IDE www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWNUUUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YKJ008NFTXDKBKE1XFV3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Oh yea, you’re absolutely right. It’s much easier to do a parasitic draw with an amp clamp, versus a normal multimeter. That reminds me. I’ve been wanting to purchase a thermal imager, of some sort. Whether it’s a stand alone thermal imager with its own screen, or one that connects to your phone. I’m seeing these being used more and more often, to assist in finding what won’t turn off, that’s causing the parasitic draw. They seem to speed the process up, and can also be used in many other scenarios. Only, from what I’ve found, they aren’t cheap. I’ll get one some day. Anyway, I was just thinking of that, and thought I’d share it with you.
@@atomsworkshop195 I really enjoy reading what you had to say and I also appreciate the link. When I was a child radio shack had something similar. It wasn't anything to solder they used brings and short and long pieces of wire. They would give you directions on how to make a radio and other things. I think I'm going to pick this kit up for myself just to give me something to do since I'm retired now. Thank you for sharing your experiences with different electrical devices. Look forward to watching more.
Thank you David Frank. As I said , I really enjoy the comments, so I appreciate it. Wow, Radio Shack. I used to love going there. I don’t know if they went out of business, or just aren’t in Texas anymore. Well, I know you’ll enjoy that kit, it’s alot of fun. Take care my friend. PS, enjoy your retirement sir, I’m sure you’ve earned it.
it might be good to make your own fuse buddy for low current measurements through the fuse, by making a coil of wire looped 10 times instead of the single loop they used. That amplifies the current reading by 10, so it reads 1 amp, it's actually 100mA. A low parasitic current draws from a stuck relay typically would be just 250mA, which might be lost in the noise of the meter, but a reading of 2.5A should show up more clearly. I might make up a 10x fuse loop for possible future use-
You’re right about that Chas Reno. I did one better and finally got a decent head light (the kind that straps on your head). Wow! Should’ve done that a long time ago. It’s the little things that make it all easier. Thanks for watching
Un tip!! Tire el mio de una distancia de 60 cm y dejó de prender, lo abrí y tenia voltaje en el capacitor de aluminio y no encontraba la falla! Hasta que cambie el cristal oscilador de 4000 hz o 4 mhz y regresó a funcionar perfectamente!! Saludos!!
Hello Lncajonathan. That’s interesting. I’m glad you got it figured out. Good job my friend. Thanks for sharing with the rest of us. Hopefully this can help others. Thanks for stopping by the channel. I always appreciate it.
Nice signal generator and power supply. I know the video is a little dated but can you send the model numbers especially on the signal generator. The light on the meter would drive me nuts. Thanks for sharing. Artie 👍 definitely like the video section showing amperage. Excellent demonstration. Also like the background music. I might be from NY but like good country music 😊
Hey, what’s going on Artie? Just got back to the house. Not a problem. I still use the signal generator and power supplies today. So, first I bought the Kaiweets DC power supply, then I bought another one that has buttons, that makes it easier to get to an exact number for voltage or amperage. Also, able to connect to computer to program and save different settings (I haven’t done that yet). I use both of them, and would recommend both. In fact I use the Kaiweets one every time we BBQ out back, to connect an FM transmitter to an older Sony home stereo. I use the power supply to power a female plug (basically like the cigarette lighter in a car). I have one that plugs into the wall. Only, we just bought and moved onto the property here a couple months ago, and I still have some things in boxes. Anyway, here’s a layout of each one: Kaiweets DC Power Supply PS-3010F: 30 Volt 10 Amp Variable Power Supply I boughtut from Amazon on 10/22/2020 for $80. That was after using a $20 coupon. I see it for sale right now for $90 minus 20% off, so maybe about $72. Rockseed HM310P Power Supply: 30 Volt 10 Amp Programmable Variable DC Power Supply I bought it off Amazon on 12-13-2020 for $80. It was originally $100, but I got a lightning deal that dropped $20 off. I see it right now for $100 minus 10%, so $90. When I was shopping for mine, I saw maybe 3 other companies selling, what looks like this same exact Power Supply, and I believe they are all the same. I went with the Rockseed myself, and am happy with my choice. Koolertron DDS Signal Generator: Koolertron Upgraded 60MHz signal generator counter. They have different models to choose from. I went with the 60MHz, which was the top one (at least at the time I bought it). I bought mine from Amazon on 02/22/2020 for $150. I know, pretty pricey. I do a lot of diagnostic work and just enjoy tinkering, so it made sense to me to be able to generate a signal. I have seen other “portable” ones for sale that I wouldn’t mind having, but for now this is what I us, and I like it. Well, I hope I covered everything. Let me know if you have any other questions. P.S. I too love listening to some country. Can you believe that the record company for that song from Hank Jr, is making money off my video. I don’t even make money from my videos, but because that song is playing in the background, they get to add commercials to my video and get paid for it. And NO, I don’t get a cut. I thought of shutting of the volume for that part of it, but screw it. It’s like I’m buying a few rounds of drinks for Hank Jr. (Or a bass boat, lol). Oh yea, when you are buying the power Supply, make sure you get the one with the correct voltage and amperage limits that you want. I know they have one that only goes to 5 amps (I believe). Mine are both 10 amps. Good luck Artie 👍🇺🇸🥩
@@atomsworkshop195 Adam I apologize for the late reply. Thank You for the very informative response to my questions. Much appreciated and I will check them out. Should receive the scope today at least I hope so. Thanks again it’s nice to have a fiend that responds. You and family stay safe and well Artie 👍🇺🇸
I believe that would be ok. To be sure I will check and get back to you. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to until tomorrow. I’ll post the answer tomorrow. Thanks for the question.
My fault. I forgot to post what happened. When first asked the question, I wanted to check my owners manual first, incase of a warning not to do that. Well, I recently moved and couldn’t find the manual, so I went ahead and tried it. Connected directly to one of my power supplies, I had it set to resistance, and absolutely nothing happened. I ran through different voltage ranges, and nothing happened. The screen on the clamp meter stayed exactly the same as it is when you switch to resistance. No beeps, no sounds, no smoke, no smell. I even turned the screen light on to see if it would dim or anything, and nothing. With all that said, that was just voltage, with no external load to draw current. I thought about adding a load to draw a few amps, but decided not to. I don’t know for sure what would happen. Maybe blow a fuse; I don’t know; but I’d rather not chance it. If anyone tries that, or knows for sure what would happen, please feel free to share. Thanks for stopping by the channel.
Hello hairlesheep. I’m not familiar with the uni-t it-210 pro. I just did a quick look on Amazon. It looks pretty similar to my BSIDE ACM91 though. I do like the ACM91. I will say when I hold the Kaiweets and the BSIDE in my hands, the Kaiweets feels more rugged. I like them both though. Again I have not used or held the UNI. Thanks for sharing.
Hello Bee, thanks for stopping by. So I just checked the manual and it has English, Deutsch, Francais, Espanol, and Italiano. No Russian. Нет русского. Извини за это, мой друг
44:10 seems copyright youtube ai troll caught your copyright infringement and removed the audio of the end of the review, but the rest was great. (got here from the short version)
Hello AlphaPiggy. Yeah so far I like their products. I have two of their multi meters, an amp clamp, and a power supply, and they all work great. Thanks for the comment. I usually respond quicker, but with Christmas, it’s been a little hectic, lol.
If you’re wanting a low amp clamp that connects to an oscilloscope, I would recommend the Pico low amp clamp. If you want a stand alone low amp clamp/multimeter, I would look at the Kaiweets low amp clamp meter. Not sure of the model number for kaiweets low amp meter. Just go on Amazon and go to their page. Hope this helps
Unfortunately you can’t. That’s probably my main complaint with it. At least, if you can keep the light on, I haven’t found out how to do it. If you find a way, please let me and everyone else know how.
Hello. The scope is a Micsig STO1104E. If you go to my RUclips channel, you will see that I have videos showing the scope in action, and talking about it. Also, I have videos of my other scope, which is the Micsig ATO1104. The ATO is their automotive scope. It is the one without the knobs & buttons on the right side. The STO is the one with the knobs & buttons. Thanks for stopping by the channel.
Hello Cuong. If I remember correctly, it was accurate down to an amp and maybe just under. Once you get into lower milliamperes it begins to drift off. I know they offer another low amp clamp for those lower numbers. Good luck buddy.
I’m really not sure. With that said, I do know that a lot of different tools are the same tool, sold under different names. I’m not sure if that is the case with this one or not though.
@@atomsworkshop195 thanks bro, very informative review of the tester, just wondering coz i wast trying to search that model in shopee apps basednin Philippines but ther are 3 brand shows up
Thanks for that. I appreciate it. Yeah, it’s definitely possible. If I remember right, back when I brought another amp clamp (just before I bought the Kaiweets), called BSIDE ACM91, there was another brand, but it was identical to the BSIDE. I think there were 3 total. All identical. Not sure which one was the original. I bought the BSIDE, and it turned out to be a good little amp clamp multimeter. I also bought a Lisle fuel line disconnect master kit, and it was identical to the Matco (I believe) set, but half the price. It’s obvious they came off the same production line, the just got a different sticker for the name.
Hello Anon ymous (nice choice for your name, lol). So, when you turn it to amps, then you want to press and hold the zero button. That will set it back to zero. I don’t have mine in front of me at the moment, but I believe it is the red button on the left. Remember, press and hold it for a couple/ few seconds. I think it will make a beep sound, when it happens. Good luck, and thanks for stopping by the channel.
Yeah, you always want to zero an amp clamp before connecting it to a circuit. This goes for all amp clamps. They all have a zero button to push, or wheel that you turn to zero it. At least the ones I have, all have it. That would include 2 Pico amp clamps, one a high amp, one a low amp (amp clamp). Also, my Micsig amp clamp, and of course the Kaiweets. Also, if it’s the kind you connect to an oscilloscope (like the other ones I mentioned above), always make sure you choose the correct setting on the scope for what type of amp clamp you are using. Example, choose 60 amp on the scope settings for a 60 amp scope. This way your measurement (numbers) will be correct. I hope this helps my friend.
Quick note: I believe the new Pico Scope 4425A has what’s called BNC Plus. It’s basically where your probe/amp clamp connects to the scope, it snaps in, and are basically smart connectors. Used together with the new “smart” amp clamps or probes, the scope instantly recognizes what you just plugged in, adjusts the settings for that clamp or probe; and in the case of the amp clamp, it automatically zeros it, so you don’t have to. Just thought I’d let you know. It’s a pretty new technology. I know Micsig has incorporated it into their new scopes also. I’m sure theirs probably zeros automatically as well. From what I understand, you can use the new “Plus”/ “Smart” probes or amp clamps, as well as the regular BNC ones with the new “plus” / “smart” scopes.
Hey DJ, good to hear from you. Yea, I know I’m way behind on videos. Everything is still in boxes. We finally just moved a few days ago. I now have a detached garage to set up in. Only I have to seal it first against pests and what not. I’m afraid to set up in there and mice chew on all my stuff. I’m trying bro. Just been so busy. I’ll get there. I’m glad you got your amp clamps. How are you liking them?
41:26 Your meter is having a problem just like mine. The moment you press the max it adds that 0.2A back up. Mine is worse the "default" DC reading is almost 1A before having to zero out.
@@atomsworkshop195 No once you circle back to the DC A mode whatever the "default" value comes back and while you can zero it out again, the second you press max/min the reading jumps to that number again. In your video you had 0.1 then you pressed max it went straight to 0.3 (0.2 added as it was the number before you zero'd it out). It's not a concern since your "default" reading is 0.2 but mine is almost -1A. I tried to test the drain for the car battery this issue makes the max button unusable. Played with it for 30min can't find a fix. Thanks for the reply.
I see what you’re saying. I would shoot an email to Kaiweets. I bet they’d send you another one out. I had a blown fuse on one of their multimeters, that I may or may not have blown. Anyway, I asked them where I could get a new fuse, since I was having trouble finding the exact one; and they sent me a whole new meter.
Thanks Timmy. Yea, I love me some Hank Jr, lol. Yea they monetized that video and get paid because of that song. Hell, I don’t even get paid for my videos. Oh well, I’m leaving it on there, lol.
Hello I am Her. You should find it pretty easy using this. A thermal imager, (unfortunately really expensive) would help find that annoying parasitic draw as well. Good luck, and thanks for stopping by the channel.
I just bought this as well for the same purpose. Turn off all accessories and lights, Clamp the negative cable, wait till the car goes into sleep mode (may take up to 20 mins) then start pulling fuses and relays until you see the amperage go down. Keep in mind, up to .30 amps is normal in some vehicles while in sleep mode. Hope this helps
Hello FortunateDad. Thanks for explaining that to I am Her. I don’t always have the time to do that. I would’ve liked to make a video showing how to track down a parasitic draw (there’s a few ways to go about it) but I’ve just been really busy lately. I was thinking about buying the other one as well. They seem to be really good amp clamps for a reasonable price. I also really like the small size of the one I have. Anyway, thanks for stopping by the channel my friend.
24:34 For the Min Max feature, try it with a range of inputs starting from 0V to 10V, and see if it will show a max of 10V. When I tried it, it's unable to get a valid max reading because the auto ranging confused it, and can't be range locked the way most auto ranging meters can be. This one only works if all the voltages applied are within the same range throughout the min max capture session, which is limiting.
How’s it going Wingerrrrrr? Thanks for the question. So I turned on the Min/Max feature to Max. I started my power supply at 0 volts and started working my way up to 10 at 1 volt incriminates. It seems to work great until I get to 7 volts then it shows .oL(usually means over limit). I tried this multiple times. I then did the same thing starting at 6 volts, and it worked properly all the way up to 32 volts (my power supply max). I’m not sure why this is happening. If I start at 2 volts and go up 1 volt at a time, it also shows oL. when I reach 7 volts (also starting at 3,4,and 5). A couple of times I was able to start at five and go up without a problem. I went from low to high and from high to low on Min, and had no problem. Is this the same thing that is happening with yours? Please respond back, so we can maybe figure out why it’s doing that, and help others as well. Thanks again for the question Wingerrrrr. Turns out to be a very good question. I never realized it before until you asked.
@@atomsworkshop195 I think it's because their min max function doesn't ignore the readings during a range change the way it should, and as as result, immediately records the OL indication as the max. The only way to have it work is if there's a range hold option, but unfortunately it's not available on this model. If they were able to update their firmware to ignore any non-readings like the OL, and just continue capturing the min max readings only after the range change finishes, it would work better.
It's okay for something like a starter voltage drop test, where you connect to the battery beforehand, and it basically stays in the same range through the whole test. Edit: Measuring a max current draw on startup is okay actually, since the current measurement doesn't autorange, just staying in one range.
So why do you think, it only seems to have this issue (min/max) under 7 volts? I tried numerous different ranges above 7 volts with no problem at all. It just doesn’t make sense to me. As for the starter test, I don’t know. It seemed to hold the max current when I started the vehicle. You can see that at the end of the video. I don’t know. I usually use my scope (oscilloscope) when I’m diagnosing cars anyway. I like to see everything (volts, current, etc.) over time. For me, my brain just seems to understand it better, seeing it as a waveform. Don’t get me wrong, I like this little Kaiweets clamp meter. Sometimes it’s just quicker to grab that versus getting the scope out. I likes the small size of it for a high amp amp clamp. It has a lot of functions (most do now) that all seem to work well. At least well enough for most automotive and around the house use. I’m not building space shuttle’s, lol. With all that said, I can’t ignore what you’ve stated. I think I need to research that a little, to better understand it. Wingerrrrr, I really appreciate all your feedback. That’s why I make these. Try to answer questions others might have, and to learn as much as I can along the way. Thanks for visiting the channel my friend.
@@atomsworkshop195 mainly only an issue if your signal starts in one range, and crosses through to the next higher range. When you start off from the lower voltage, it picks the range that gives the best accuracy and resolution for low voltages, but when you increase the voltage beyond the 7V, it has to change to a higher range to be able to read properly. The meter has several ranges with progressively higher max voltage read capability. The 7V sits right where it needs to change range, which causes the brief OL until it's able to switch gears.
Hello hvili79. I only have the Kaiweets, but from what I’ve seen on RUclips, there is a couple other meters that look identical to the Kaiweets. I do t know which one was the original. In fact, if you find out, will you post it here, so I’ll know. Either way, I like my Kaiweets. Thanks for stopping by the channel my friend.
@@atomsworkshop195 strange state. for I do not see a Kaiwest factory anywhere www.habo-test.com/aboutus.html Dongguan Habotest Instrument Technology Co.,Ltd is an innovation orientied technology enterprise with an over 20 years R&D team, injection molding, professional production line and assembly capabilities.
Yeah, you can still see it without it (most of the time). I just thought that the light being on makes it better to see when watching it. I make my videos with my phone, so sometimes it seems like you can’t see it (on my small screen), but when you watch it later on the tv, you can. I still think an option to keep the light on wouldn’t hurt. Anyway, thanks for watching, and leaving a couple comments; I always appreciate the feedback. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 🎊🎆🎈
@@atomsworkshop195 ok well in any case, I love the video. I just got that exact clamp meter for Christmas and I've never used one so 8 found the video to be very helpful. Thank you
Thanks for the kind words. I’m glad my video was able to help you, and I know you’ll enjoy the clamp meter. Kaiweets makes good products. I have three multi meters, this amp clamp meter , and a power supply, and they all work great. Also from a personal experience, I can say they back their warranty. The first thing I bought from them was a multi meter, and somehow one of the fuses blew (possibly my fault). I tried finding the exact fuse but was unsuccessful, so I contacted Kaiweets, and asked where I could get the fuse. I even said that I most likely blew it, and they sent me out another brand new multi meter and a small smart multi meter that they had just came out with. That was really cool of them. Anyway, if you have any questions, feel free to ask me, and if I can I’ll answer it for you.
@@atomsworkshop195 well I was hoping to maybe do a video chat and you could tell me what I'm doing wrong when hooking the clamp meter up to my car. What kind of car did you hook your up to and why is the amperage so high? I drive a Honda civic and the highest reading I'm getting is somewhere around 45 amps
You clicked on the longer review. I also have a shorter one. Also, I’m not seeing the link, in your comment, to the video that you made, showing the correct way to make a review. Oh, you don’t….
I don’t see why not. Only, since it’s not connected to an oscilloscope, you won’t see current over time, so I would use the min max feature. This way, it’ll save the highest or lowest number reached. Hope this helps. Also, I apologize for the slow response; I just now saw your question. Thanks for watching, and the question.
@@atomsworkshop195 I saw on online shops more expencive model named HT208D and it claims it can measure inrush current, but max feature should probably do the same thing.
Hello John, and thanks for stopping by. I’m not sure exactly what you are saying. I used the “Max” feature to capture the “inrush current” when I started the vehicle. If I was using an oscilloscope, you would see the same thing, but over time. You would be able to see the spike of inrush current drawn, then it would drop back down. Anyway, maybe I’m having a brain fart at the moment, but I’m not sure what I did wrong. If you could explain it a little more, I’d appreciate it. I am not someone that claims to know everything. I’m here to learn, and help others learn what I’ve learned. So, if I’m doing something wrong, I’d like to know so I can correct it. I’ll look for your response. Thanks John.
@@atomsworkshop195 I know this is an OLD video and I am leaning too, but anyway here is my 1 cent on this topic, the difference is how fast can the Meter do the sampling for every reading, some PEAK amps (for example some AC Compressors) have a very FAST (in the milliseconds) peak amp that a normal AMPMETER may not see using the MAX (because of the instrument sampling rate) so the MAX feature will not detect that peak while the INRUSH meter could (i mean at least in theory) because it start the Sampling at the moment the the unit (motor) start and get in a fast sampling mode. so to answer that question yes the MAX may give a close number but not necessarily the true PEAK while the INRUSH mode (if available) will (again at least😁 in theory).
Thanks for the info. Definitely appreciate your feedback. I usually use one of my oscilloscopes whenever I need more precise readings. It’s easier for me to be able to see the reading over time, as a waveform. Then, if needed, I can break the waveform down. Thanks again.
You assume that the voltage reading on your power supply is accurate. Why. All you have shown is that the test meter reads about the same. They could both be wrong/
I tested the power supply when I first bought it, with 2 separate oscilloscopes, and they all matched. That’s good enough for my uses, diagnosing automobile’s, and anything else I will probably come across. I’m not building space shuttles over here.
How’s it going William. Sorry to hear yours isn’t working. You should just be able to turn on the meter with the dial, press the NCV button and hold it for about 2 seconds, let off, then whenever you hold it close to voltage, it will beep & show an “L” on the screen. Hold it closer and it should continue to beep, and show an “H”, and the screen should light up orange. Press and hold it for about 2 more seconds to turn off NCV. If yours isn’t doing that, you should email them, let them know, and they should send you another one. The first thing I bought from Kaiweets was a multimeter (I did a review video on it). Anyway, the fuse for the current setting was blown. They not only sent me a brand new multimeter (letting me keep the old one), they also sent me a small smart multimeter (also did a video on). With that said, in the email I sent them, I mentioned I was going to make a video about the original multimeter. They asked if I would be interested in testing their new smart meter. Regardless, I’m pretty sure they would send you a new amp clamp meter. I believe they have a 3 year warranty. Well good luck William. Let me know how it turns out, will ya?
I have one of these. It's great for working on cars. I like the clamp, the min max, the flashlight and no blown fuses. I cut off the probes and replaced them with alligator clips which are much better for working on cars. My 2 grandkids use it as a "Ghost Busters" meter and go searching for ghosts in the basement with the non-contact sensor. But they come running back up if they see a spider. Cheers from Canada :-)
Hello Robin. That’s great to hear. That’s a good idea with the alligator clips. I often use a separate set of leads that came with another meter, that gives me the option to screw on or off alligator clips. You’re right, it does make it easier. I love how your grandkids use it for ghosts. That’s funny. Take care. Your friend from southern Texas (USA).
The problem with the min max is if the measurement starts out from zero, and the auto range changes range. Then it doesn't record things properly. The 208D fixed that by having a range lock option, which is really a must have for all these auto range meters.
Repeated measurements can proceed much faster with locked ranges rather than auto range all the time.
Thanks for the info SA Defur. I did not know that.
Thanks, I was disappointed with mine until I saw you zero the reading before a DC current clamp measurement. Now it reads accurately! GREAT
Hello Scott, I’m glad I was able to help you out. I apologize it took so long to respond. Anyway, thanks for watching
Dude! Read the booklet it comes with. I read about zeroing before and after a measurement in there.
I believe mostly DC clamp is using hall effect feature, so you require to zero out (that is the way it should) right after you clamp to cancel out ambient signal. As for the temperature it should be connected to temperature probe, otherwise it just some strange floating value from your test lead, it's what I noticed.
I just picked one of these up after watching your review. I wanted one that would be suitable for automotive troubleshooting. Thanks you did a great job.
Thanks Christhefistful. Glad I could be of help. So far, I still like it. I’ve used it more than I thought I would.
Comes with a case!
Great meter. Does everything. Better than a standard multimeter
I can’t believe I didn’t buy one sooner.
Hello John. I never got a notification for your comment. I’m just now seeing it. You’re absolutely correct. I thought the same thing when I got mine (should’ve bought it sooner), lol. I’m glad you like it. Thanks for visiting the channel and leaving a comment.
I guess I did see it. I just now clicked the like button and it took a like away. That means I liked it before. I guess I just didn’t leave a comment to your comment, lol. Anyway thanks a lot my friend.
Gotta say Atom this was an excellent review on this Meter, specially like the min/max function that I wasn't aware off Thank You !
Thank you for the kind words boatbuilder1.
Thank you very much for making this, not just a review, but also instructional!
You’re welcome Juan, and thanks for that.
I just bought this meter and I’m glad to see this review-test of it- thanks for this upload!
You’re welcome, and for watching, my friend.
I just ordered one for car work . this was just what I needed thank you very much Steve B
Thanks for watching Steve. It should work good for you, for car work. That’s what I mostly use mine for. Have a good weekend.
Well I have a slew of multimeters. I started with an analog Radio Shack unit I bought back in the mid-70s in my teens. It has its uses even today. I last used it to check for smooth action of an air flow meter as I opened up the vane over its range. Then a Circuitmate DM25L DMM. Then a Radio Shack auto-ranging DMM that looks like a small calculator that I keep on the motorcycle. Then an INNOVA auto-ranging DMM that I keep in the car. Then a Fluke 88V kit auto-ranging DMM because of the quality and it was a deal. And a slew of el-cheapo $5 Harbor Freight DMMs that I can give away. And now one of these clamp meters mainly to check starter currents which is handier than the 200A shunt and my Max/Min hold DMM or TEK scope.
That’s awesome A Christian. Those old analogs meters still come in handy. I have an Innova. The Innova 3320. It’s a nice little meter. My primary DMM (at the moment) is a BSIDE ZT-M1. It has an EBTN LCD display. It’s really neat. I think it sells for about 50 bucks on Amazon. I shouldn’t know that, since it was a gift from my in-laws from this past Christmas. You should check it out, it’s pretty cool. I’ve tested it, comparing it with one of my oscilloscopes, and it did rather well. Maybe I’ll do a video on it. I’ve never had a Fluke myself. Don’t get me wrong, I would love to have one. I just think they are too proud of them, and it definitely shows in the price. I know they are great meters, and most people swear by them. I guess for now, if I need something super reliable and precise, I can just use one of my scopes. I just think (and I’ve had this conversation with a lot of people), if everyone just quit buying flukes until they lowered the prices (that goes for Snapon too), they would have no choice. Not only that, but when I bought one of my last DMM’s, I was doing some comparisons to a couple lower end flukes, and the way less expensive “non fluke” meters did more than the flukes. Anyway, I’m rambling, lol. I’m sure I’ll get a fluke some day, lol. Take care my friend.
Thank you very much! I have been looking for such a video for a long time to understand what it is about. This video really helped to understand the device ! Thank you for this video, a full explanation of the functionality! I wish you good luck and promotion of your channel ! Thanks !
Thank you Bee. I’m glad you liked it. Sometimes I think I make the videos too long, but that’s the only way I can show everything. I know when I’m thinking of buying something, I want to see everything I can about it, so I think it’s the best way. Thank you for the kind words, this motivates me to keep doing them. I really appreciate you stopping y the channel. You’re always welcome here.
Excellent overview of the device. Very useful idea (for me) to measure the alternator voltage and current simultaneously. Thanks.
You’re welcome AW. Glad I could help. Thank you for watching, and for the kind words.
Just picked this one up! Great for my hvac career specially because im just starting! And a great starting clamp multimeter for beginners!
It’s a good little meter, I’m sure it’ll work good for you. I did HVAC work for a little while, some years back. I never went to school for it. I just knew a guy that knew a guy that had an HVAC company and needed some help. I did mostly Rough-Ins & Equipment Sets. So basically installing the entire system in new homes. I was just learning Diagnostic work and the repairs, when the company went outs of business. Good luck with your new career. There can be good money in it. I think it was Confucius that said “If you enjoy what you do, you’ll never work another day in your life”. That’s the secret my friend. Thanks for checking out the video.
Hello Jordon, thanks for the question. I don’t work in the HVAC field, so I don’t want to lead you astray. I work in automotive diagnosis and repair, and I can say it’s good to have for that. I would think it would work for HVAC as long as you don’t need to read under 200-300 milivolts. If you need to see under that, I would recommend looking at a low amp clamp meter, that’s designed for under 100 millivolts. If you need to see between 500 millivolts and 600 Volts, I would think this would work for you. If your new in the HVAC field, I would look to see what those guys are using. Maybe check some HVAC RUclips videos and shoot a few questions their way. Good luck buddy, and thanks for watching.
Oh yeah. Miguel in the comment above said he is new to HVAC and said this will work great for that field. Just a thought.
@Atom’s Workshop correct works like a charm I got the 206d gets the job done for residential and commercial if you do industrial you can get the 208 because it's read up to 1k volts unlike this one reads up to 600v but i been satisfied for what I paid wasn't expensive as the other top brands like klein , fieldpiece,fluke or uei so far its been durable been having it since September of 2022
@@miguelangelgatica4944 cool, thanks for your reply
Thank you so much for this fantastic walkthrough and review. Found your video so helpful and informative. Many thanks again from the UK. All the very best Mike👍🙂
Thanks for the kind words Mike. I’m glad you got some use out of the video. Cheers from the USA , Texas specifically.
I'm in the UK and I bought one last week. I'm extremely impressed with it and I now use it as my main multimeter. I'm upgrading an old e bike with LiFeP04 batteries and I wanted to know the current draw while cycling up a hill. The max/min feature was essential for that.
That’s good to hear. It’s a great little multimeter. Let us know how the bike turns out. Thanks for watching.
@@atomsworkshop195 The bike works great electrically. Just need to build a secure box for the batteries. It's a 24 volt bike that had a huge heavy nickel metal hydride battery. Needless to say it was pretty useless. Runs great on LiFeP04 (2 miady 7.2ah batteries in series). Peace of mind too. The BMS in the battery trips if a catastrophic overload occurs.
I don't need it, BUT I LIKE IT, so I bought one too and I don't regret :D
I had a period of time where I couldn’t stop buying multimeters, amp clamps, and other diagnostic equipment lol. I could probably open up a small retail electronics store if I wanted to, 😂
@@atomsworkshop195 I can feel with you, I bought recently 3 new multimeters, but luckily they are dirt cheap here in Thailand. I payed for this one only 12 Dollars incl. shipping, it calls Habotest HT206D here and the other two are Aneng M118A (4 Dollars inlc. shipping)and Aneng A3004 (3 Dollars incl. shipping). All of them i like, the Anengs are significant quicker than the Habotest and accurate too. The Aneng M118A is the easiest I ever had to operate and the pen style A3004 is the fastest to use and they complete each other in current range (A3004 up to 200mA and M118A 20mA plus). I wish you a lot of pleasure with your equipment and yes I'll keep you updated how they hold up : )
Indepth review Adam. A lot of features packed in there
Thanks Dave. Yea, it’s a nice little meter.
awesome review!!! and great choice in music. Thanks for the time you put into this. I just got one.
Thanks Bryan Woods. Yea, I love me some Hank Jr & Waylon Jennings. It’s nice to hear there’s still others out there that can appreciate good music. That’s great you got one; they’re good little meters. I use mine all the time. Thanks for stopping by the channel, my friend.
Atom’s Workshop, You should have tried the temperature on this one you might have just missed one that is accurate, I gave the temp a try and found it very accurate. Cheers mate good video.
Hello Chappy. Thanks for sharing. I’ll have to try it out.
@@atomsworkshop195 I didn't do any subtle testing with it just fridge, freezer, ambient, nothing more than that but it was accurate to the degree on all those tests compared to the digital thermometers I have installed in those appliances, it might be worth giving it a test if only to satisfy your curiosity. Cheers.
Sounds good. Thanks Chappy
Just waiting for mine to arrive. Thanks for the detailed review!
You’re welcome Kelly Klaas KK7SU. It’s a good little clamp meter. I’m sure you’ll like it.
0:32 ask your wife why she needs so many shoes. Having many multimeters I can understand, but shoes? LOL
A Christian, that’s hilarious 😂. I just read that in front of the wife, lol. You are so right. Only with my wife, it’s not so much shoes as it is pajamas. My wife could cloth a battalion with the amount of pajamas she has, lol.
I use a Fluke 88 Automotive meter and Amp clamp, but this one is awesome if compared the price... Here in Italy less than 50€.....around 55 USD.... Incredible, thanks for this revue. The fuses cable adapter, where you find it?
Thanks For the comment Andrea. I bought the “fuse buddy” from Amazon. I got two sizes. The mini and ATC. They were thirteen dollars and some change apiece. $29.38 US Dollars total for both sizes.
Here in Thailand I payed 12 Euros including delivery...it calls Habotest HT206D here : )
I have the HT206B (bravo, not the delta model you have) and it is nearly identical.....the NCV/hold switch on the board was unsupported and broke off either in transit or at the first push as the outer button can over travel and shear it right off. That one feature is not robust, but the other 99% of the meter is as you found it - a good buy for the Money with some excellent features for the home-gamer.
Hello Winslow273. You should have them swap it out for a new (non-broken) one. You shouldn’t settle for a broken one. I was thinking about ordering the one you have also. I definitely like the one I have. If that ever changes, I’ll mention why in a video. I agree, definitely a good buy for the money. You don’t always have to break the bank to get a good product. When I was younger, when it came to any kind of electronics, I would only by the so called “best” (most expensive). Then a lot of my tools were stolen out of my truck in a Lowe’s parking lot. Well I had to replace everything, but couldn’t afford all the most expensive, all at once. So, I rolled the dice, purchased some reasonably priced items (after researching reviews), and I was pleasantly surprised. Since then, I’ve learned there are a lot of good companies out there selling good products at a fair price. Anyway, thanks for stopping by the Channel my friend.
@@atomsworkshop195 The difference, it seems, between the Bravo and Delta model is the Delta has he DC Clamp Ammeter, where as my Bravo does only AC Amp clamp.
Trying to get a live person for the 36 month warranty is so far fruitless....for that little cash I will probably just buy a Delta at some point....
Oh, I didn’t realize it didn’t measure DC. Thanks for that Winslow273.
Yea, I can understand what you’re saying about the hassle of a warranty. If you order the other one from Amazon and there is a problem with it, you could return it (within 30 days), and order another one. I wish you the best my friend.
Hello Winslow273. I was just thinking, and don’t know why I didn’t think of this the last time we spoke. Anyway, I bought a Kaiweets Multimeter (I did a video on it), and the fuse for the current was blown. I emailed them, letting them know, and they sent me out a new multimeter (letting me keep the first one). They also sent me their new smart meter to test (also did a video on). I mentioned in my email that I was going to do a review on it, so they asked if I would be interested in testing their new smart meter. Anyway, I’m sure if you emailed them, they would send out another one. Just thought I’d let you know. Someone else just commented that their NCV wasn’t working, and I instantly remembered what I just mentioned. Not sure why I didn’t think about it before. Was probably tired. Anyway, let me know what comes of it.
If you have any need for a non contact AC voltage tester, the dual sensitivity Kaiweets or Tacklife pen model with the LCD screen works very well. I just bought one through Woot for the princely sum of $8.99 👍
It works as well as the Klein NCVT2 that I misplaced, being able to easily distinguish the hot from the neutral wires of a lamp cord.
The NCV tester in the amp clamp is just too sensitive to help much, as it tends to just sound off when within an arms length from an AC source. It really needs some kind of sensitivity adjustment capability for it to be useful.
Had to like just for saying I just like multimeters, good man.
Mc Skippster, thanks for that. It’s the simple truth. It doesn’t matter how many I have, there’s always another one, that looks cool, or has other features. I can never have too many. Thanks for watching. Take care my friend.
A very good test. Everything is shown. thank you
Not a problem JD. Thanks for the kind words
I am getting this one for my automotive classes. Was also looking at the Fluke 117and the 88 -V . any reviews on those or which i should get between those two . Awesome review and will be subscribing
Hello Gonzalo, thanks for the kind words. Honestly, I’ve never bought a fluke. I’m sure they’re great meters, I just think they are way over priced. Maybe back in the day, they were worth it, but nowadays, you can spend way less, and often get one with more features and warranty. You’ll have to make that call. I can say this one has proven itself to me, and I’m still using it. If I need to get real technical or precise, I’ll break out my scope with an amp clamp. Good luck my friend, and thank you for subscribing.
Fluke 88-V or Kaiweets? Pretty much covers the full spectrum on cost, both ends.
I noticed that you turned up your music to do the amperage test. Do you have an aftermarket sound system?
Hey there Julienne Goodell. No, it’s the stock radio. Though my 350z is the 35th anniversary edition that came with the upgraded Bose sound system. Oh yeah, they did a copyright thing on my video for that short little part with the music. I don’t want to delete that part though, so I guess they get paid for my video. At least someone gets paid for it, because I sure don’t, lol. Of course that’s not why I make them.
In order for the temperature to work you need to plug in the other leads that came with it. that is the temperature probe.
Thanks John
Thanks for the review. I was on the edge of buying one, and I'll go, I know that it's not the most accurate with voltage but still acceptable for working on cars.
What do you think about the amp clamp accuracy ? You have experience and you seem to assume it's precise. I'll thrust that.
I'm canadian, know nothing about country, but loved that song ! Thank you for the review.
You’re welcome. I use it plenty to do quick diagnosis oncars. It’s not the best once you get under an amp, but is good for automotive use. They have a low amp clamp they sell also. If I need to see smaller more precise numbers, I usually use my oscilloscope. With that said, for the price it’s a good and useful meter. Thanks for watching.
PS, that song is “The Conversation” from Hank Williams Jr. it’s a good song. They copyrighted my video o er that little piece of the song. At least someone’s getting paid for my video (just not me), lol. Take care Diverscale.
Thanks for the review. Does the HT206D show Millivolts DC? I notice when you tested the it only showed to 2 decimal places instead of 3 and yet the spec says it measures in millivolts. thanks
I don’t have it with me at the moment, but I’m pretty sure it measures MILLIVOLTS. If I remember correctly, it wasn’t super accurate on MILLIVOLTS. I know they sell a low amp amp clamp too, that may be better for lower measurements. Good luck
on yoou showed your car battery you showed 18 volts shouldn’t it have shown 24 volts for a car battery? Thanks for the video
Hello Smittyone66. The 18 that you saw was the amperage going from the alternator to the battery. The voltage was about 14 volts while the car was running. You can see that I switched the meter from volts to amps a couple times. A single car battery should be about 12.6 volts not running, and about 14 volts, give it take a little while running. You may be thinking of a larger truck that uses two batteries for a 24 volt system. I hope this makes sense. Thanks for watching my friend.
Hey I really love your channel! Is helping me a lot.
Thank you bitsandpeace. That’s nice to hear. I’m glad I could be of service. Let me know if you have any questions, and I’ll try to answer them.
Thank you i will do that. Was looking for an amp meter and i loved your review on the kaiweets ht206d so i just ordered one a little while ago. Thank you so much! Am looking forward to seeing many more. Also learned about fuse buddies for automotive. Great job !
That’s great. I’m sure you’re gonna like the clamp meter. It’s a nice meter, and just the right size. Thanks checking out the channel, and for the kind words.
I love your video brother... How about the ingco6005 l believe its the same in functionality with this the kaiweets. I m trying to buy a clamp meter but still comparing this one and the ingco6005. In our place the ingco is much cheaper than this one. Any suggestion 🙏
Hey buddy. I don’t have the ingco6005, but I just pulled it up on Amazon, took out my Kaiweets, and just compared them kinda side by side; and other than one is red and the other is yellow and the names, they look like the same exact meter. The buttons, clamps, and every single symbol and number are identical, in the exact same spot. Looks like the same specs to me. I know that a lot of different tool brands are the same exact item, come from the same exact assembly line, but get different names, colors, and sold as different brands. That looks like the same here with these two clamp meter. Again, I only have the Kaiweets and can only truly speak for it. So far, I haven’t had any problems with it, and it’s still going strong. With all that in mind, I would grab the least expensive one, because if I were a betting man, my money is on they are the same product underneath the “paint job”. Good luck brother. Let me know how it turns out. Especially if you get the other brand. Come back and share with us what you think of it, so we can help others in the future.
PS, Thanks for watching the video.
, and for the complement.
Great looking amp clamp. Can it output the amperage readings to an oscilloscope?
Hello Mathew. No, this amp clamp shows the readings on its own screen. Picture a multimeter and an amp clamp combined together in one.
Which clamp meter brand u think has a better quality / accuracy in general (Kaiweets, UNI T, ANENG)
☺️💛 Thanks
Hello Bobo, thanks for stopping by. I can’t speak on UNI T, and ANENG, because I do t have them. I do have an BSIDE ACM91, which looks pretty similar to the UNI T. I am happy with the BSIDE ACM91; it’s a pretty good meter. The Kaiweets is pretty damn accurate. I have the HT206D. It’s a “high” amp clamp, meaning it can read up to 1,000 amps and 600 volts. Only it starts to get less accurate when you start to read the low end into to low millivolts; but as I said it’s meant for higher readings. If you need to read low MILLIVOLTS, Kaiweets offers a “low” amp clamp for that. Don’t get me wrong it’ll read the hundreds of MILLIVOLTS, it’s just when you get into the low double digits (like 10 MILLIVOLTS). I don’t remember exactly where it starts to get off a little, but you should be able to see it in my video. I can use it for pretty much all voltage and amperage readings on vehicles. If I need to get really precise, I just use my oscilloscope. I definitely recommend Kaiweets. I originally bought the Kaiweets HT118A multi meter (which is a nice, solid, and accurate meter). Anyway, I fried one of the fuses in it (completely my fault). I removed the fuse, but was having trouble finding the exact replacement fuse. I got a hold of them to ask where I could get the fuse. They insisted in sending me an entire new meter. Not only that, but they also sent me one of their new small touchscreen meters as a gift. That was pretty damn cool of them. I know I didn’t quite answer your question because I don’t have those other brands, but I will stand by and recommend this Kaiweets. I assure you it’ll will work for all (most) of your automotive and around the house needs. Let me know if you have any more questions, and thanks again for checking out my video.
@@atomsworkshop195
Thanks man for the reply I really appreciate it thank for ur time 💛
After days of reading and searching and with ur review I decided to go with the Kaiweets HT208D
for DIY home and Car battery / wires diagnose it may save me money on the long run
50 $ On aliexpress + ( 7$ VAT to my country) seems a good price
If HT206D is better than HT208D for my needs please let me know 👍🏼 accuracy is my main goal
Thank again
Great video. What is the correct current ranges? Manual show a 6a and meter/advertisment shows only 60A/600a.
Hello William Butler Sr. Thank you for the kind words, and for stopping by the channel. For the Kaiweets HT206D, the ranges are 60A & 600A. On the meter itself, using the dial, you have one option that says 60A, and another option that says 600A. Both options have AC & DC. Of course you also have the other options, V, Hz%, diode, capacitance, resistance, continuity, Celsius/Fahrenheit, and lowZ, all options with the dial. Those are on the dial, than you also have the buttons. I Know Kaiweets also has another clamp meter HT200B that has one option for2A, 20A, & one for 200A (AC only). I also, just noticed they have a new one ( new to me anyway), HT208D with one option with 60/600A, and one for 1000A. This one is AC & DC. They also have HT208A where the amperage will only read AC. Anyway, there may be other sub models (like A, B, C, etc) with other options. I hope this answered your question. Feel free to comment any time, and thank you for stopping by the channel, my friend.
PS, say the options on the dial are 60A & 600A. If you want to test anything under 60 amps, you would choose 60A. If you want to test something between 60 amps and 600amps, you would choose 600A. Now if you are testing really low amps, say under 20 amps, with this example, you would choose 60A. With that said, if you used their clamp meter that has an option for 20A, and you used it to test under 20 amps, it might be more precise on the measurement. If anything, it would probably add another decimal point on the digital readout. Just something to think about. I don’t know if you know this already or not. Lord knows there was a time when I didn’t. Anyway, take care my friend.
@@atomsworkshop195 Just bought one and am disappointed in very low DC current. ie .10 - .90 amps. My cheap $10 non-clamp m-meter is very accurate in that range. It does have a ma range selector though, unlike the 206D. That should have clued me in on the HT206D for ma. I wrongly assumed that with two decimal places and all the raving reviews it would be accurate with low dc current. I read its possible to wrap the wire to be read DC current multiple times around the clamp for better low current accuracy. Do you know of this or tried it? They mentioned multiplying or dividing the number of turns times the readout, or something like that. Thank you!
Hello RidemFast, thanks for stopping by. I work mostly on automobiles, and like this meter mostly for that. If I need to look at MillIamps, I would break out my scope, and use a different low amp current clamp. Unfortunately, I am in the process of packing for a move, and all my stuff is already in stacks of boxes, so I can’t test wrapping the wire, like you mentioned. I do recall hearing about doing that, in the past, and believe it works. I should’ve been more clear in the video, to look at the other model, for milliamps. If you try the “wrap the wire” test, let me know how it works out, will ya? This could possibly help others. Thanks for stopping by the Channel my friend. Take care.
Would have liked for a demo of how to use probes to measure current.
I enjoyed watching you so the features of this meter I just wish you would have been a little bit more precise on what setting the meter was on. I had mine sitting with me so I could take notes from your video and it was hard to tell what you were changing when you were pushing buttons. Other than that I really think you did a great job. I look forward to seeing your other video on the voltmeter that you were talking about early on in the video. I'm looking to get myself some better voltmeters. Like you I buy a lot of them. I probably easily have 6 or more voltmeter I still have an analog voltmeter in my toolbox. I don't do a lot of computer work I mostly do a lot of DC work. That the reason I purchased this clamp. I want to do a parasitic loss test on my vehicle and the easiest way is with a clamp meter but it can be done with any meter.
Thanks for taking your time to review this item and I look forward to watching more of them. I definitely hit the like button and subscribe button.
Hello David Frank, thanks for the comment, I enjoy reading them, and often learn a lot through them. Sorry, I wasn’t real precise about what setting I was on. Sometimes when I watch some of my videos (at a later date), I feel like maybe I was too “thorough”, I guess, and I wonder if it makes it too boring to watch. However, now that you mentioned that, I’ll definitely keep it in mind in future videos. Speaking of which, I haven’t been making any lately. This will change this next month. At the moment, my wife and I are in the process of buying some property in the country. At the moment I am just too busy, between work, everything to do with the new property, packing, etc. Once I get over there I’ll have a small shop, and all the room in the world to make videos. You mentioned you mostly work with DC. This is true with me as well. I diagnose and repair vehicle’s, so I’m mostly dealing with DC. I have however, been teaching myself AC, playing and learning about transistors, resistors, power supply’s, a multitude of sensors (some that are also on vehicles), and anything else I can get my hands on, lol. I bought the ELEGOO Mega 2560 Project Ultimate Starter Kit. It’s pretty fun to play with. I’ll try and leave a link, so you can see what I’m talking about. I definitely recommend it. Since I’ll have my little shop (detached garage), I plan on making videos diagnosing cars, and whatever else I find interesting. I’m thinking about making a playlist of me showing all the different kinds of automotive diagnostic tools, with videos of how to use each one, and what I think of each particular tool, other options, etc.. Do you work on cars? I ask because you mentioned you mostly deal with DC. Oh, for the record, I still have mostly good things to say about the clamp meter, and still recommend it. I’d have to say, my biggest gripe with it, is that you can’t make the light stay on. Or if you can, I haven’t figured out how. That does get a little annoying. Oh yea, I read your comment to my wife, so she can see that having more than one meter, and still wanting another one, is not that unusual. So thanks for that, it helps my case with MRS. ATOM, lol. David, thanks again for liking the video, and thank you for subscribing. Like I said, I plan on making videos regularly once we get moved. David, my name is Adam, so if you ever have any questions, or can answer any of mine (that I ask in videos), or have any other comments, feel free to post them, and I’ll respond just as soon as I can. Thanks again my friend.
Link to that electronics set I mentioned (incase you’re interested) :
ELEGOO Mega 2560 Project The Most Complete Ultimate Starter Kit w/ TUTORIAL Compatible with Arduino IDE www.amazon.com/dp/B01EWNUUUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YKJ008NFTXDKBKE1XFV3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Oh yea, you’re absolutely right. It’s much easier to do a parasitic draw with an amp clamp, versus a normal multimeter. That reminds me. I’ve been wanting to purchase a thermal imager, of some sort. Whether it’s a stand alone thermal imager with its own screen, or one that connects to your phone. I’m seeing these being used more and more often, to assist in finding what won’t turn off, that’s causing the parasitic draw. They seem to speed the process up, and can also be used in many other scenarios. Only, from what I’ve found, they aren’t cheap. I’ll get one some day. Anyway, I was just thinking of that, and thought I’d share it with you.
@@atomsworkshop195 I really enjoy reading what you had to say and I also appreciate the link. When I was a child radio shack had something similar. It wasn't anything to solder they used brings and short and long pieces of wire. They would give you directions on how to make a radio and other things. I think I'm going to pick this kit up for myself just to give me something to do since I'm retired now. Thank you for sharing your experiences with different electrical devices. Look forward to watching more.
Thank you David Frank. As I said , I really enjoy the comments, so I appreciate it. Wow, Radio Shack. I used to love going there. I don’t know if they went out of business, or just aren’t in Texas anymore. Well, I know you’ll enjoy that kit, it’s alot of fun. Take care my friend. PS, enjoy your retirement sir, I’m sure you’ve earned it.
it might be good to make your own fuse buddy for low current measurements through the fuse, by making a coil of wire looped 10 times instead of the single loop they used.
That amplifies the current reading by 10, so it reads 1 amp, it's actually 100mA. A low parasitic current draws from a stuck relay typically would be just 250mA, which might be lost in the noise of the meter, but a reading of 2.5A should show up more clearly.
I might make up a 10x fuse loop for possible future use-
Great review. Good job 😉
Thank you Jan Cirip 😃
Very useful.
Thanks! You should of just used your portable LED light to light up the meter screen instead of getting frustrated during the presentation. Well Done.
You’re right about that Chas Reno. I did one better and finally got a decent head light (the kind that straps on your head). Wow! Should’ve done that a long time ago. It’s the little things that make it all easier. Thanks for watching
Wow good teacher!
Thanks William!
Un tip!! Tire el mio de una distancia de 60 cm y dejó de prender, lo abrí y tenia voltaje en el capacitor de aluminio y no encontraba la falla! Hasta que cambie el cristal oscilador de 4000 hz o 4 mhz y regresó a funcionar perfectamente!! Saludos!!
Hello Lncajonathan. That’s interesting. I’m glad you got it figured out. Good job my friend. Thanks for sharing with the rest of us. Hopefully this can help others. Thanks for stopping by the channel. I always appreciate it.
Thanks for the Russian subtitles.
You’re welcome my friend. Thank you for stopping by the channel.
Great review well done
Thank you, I appreciate that. Thanks for watching.
Nice signal generator and power supply. I know the video is a little dated but can you send the model numbers especially on the signal generator. The light on the meter would drive me nuts. Thanks for sharing. Artie 👍 definitely like the video section showing amperage. Excellent demonstration. Also like the background music. I might be from NY but like good country music 😊
Hey, what’s going on Artie? Just got back to the house. Not a problem. I still use the signal generator and power supplies today. So, first I bought the Kaiweets DC power supply, then I bought another one that has buttons, that makes it easier to get to an exact number for voltage or amperage. Also, able to connect to computer to program and save different settings (I haven’t done that yet). I use both of them, and would recommend both. In fact I use the Kaiweets one every time we BBQ out back, to connect an FM transmitter to an older Sony home stereo. I use the power supply to power a female plug (basically like the cigarette lighter in a car). I have one that plugs into the wall. Only, we just bought and moved onto the property here a couple months ago, and I still have some things in boxes. Anyway, here’s a layout of each one:
Kaiweets DC Power Supply PS-3010F:
30 Volt 10 Amp Variable Power Supply
I boughtut from Amazon on 10/22/2020 for $80. That was after using a $20 coupon. I see it for sale right now for $90 minus 20% off, so maybe about $72.
Rockseed HM310P Power Supply:
30 Volt 10 Amp Programmable Variable DC Power Supply
I bought it off Amazon on 12-13-2020 for $80. It was originally $100, but I got a lightning deal that dropped $20 off.
I see it right now for $100 minus 10%, so $90. When I was shopping for mine, I saw maybe 3 other companies selling, what looks like this same exact Power Supply, and I believe they are all the same. I went with the Rockseed myself, and am happy with my choice.
Koolertron DDS Signal Generator:
Koolertron Upgraded 60MHz signal generator counter.
They have different models to choose from. I went with the 60MHz, which was the top one (at least at the time I bought it).
I bought mine from Amazon on 02/22/2020 for $150. I know, pretty pricey. I do a lot of diagnostic work and just enjoy tinkering, so it made sense to me to be able to generate a signal. I have seen other “portable” ones for sale that I wouldn’t mind having, but for now this is what I us, and I like it.
Well, I hope I covered everything. Let me know if you have any other questions.
P.S. I too love listening to some country. Can you believe that the record company for that song from Hank Jr, is making money off my video. I don’t even make money from my videos, but because that song is playing in the background, they get to add commercials to my video and get paid for it. And NO, I don’t get a cut. I thought of shutting of the volume for that part of it, but screw it. It’s like I’m buying a few rounds of drinks for Hank Jr. (Or a bass boat, lol).
Oh yea, when you are buying the power Supply, make sure you get the one with the correct voltage and amperage limits that you want. I know they have one that only goes to 5 amps (I believe). Mine are both 10 amps.
Good luck Artie 👍🇺🇸🥩
I just corrected some spelling and what not issues on that last comment. So if you read it already and some didn’t make sense, it should now.
@@atomsworkshop195 Adam I apologize for the late reply. Thank You for the very informative response to my questions. Much appreciated and I will check them out. Should receive the scope today at least I hope so. Thanks again it’s nice to have a fiend that responds. You and family stay safe and well Artie 👍🇺🇸
Thanks Artie. Be safe my friend 🇺🇸👍
Doesit have protection? I mean what if i measure voltage in resistance mode? Does it broke?
I believe that would be ok. To be sure I will check and get back to you. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to until tomorrow. I’ll post the answer tomorrow. Thanks for the question.
What was the result? Thanks
My fault. I forgot to post what happened. When first asked the question, I wanted to check my owners manual first, incase of a warning not to do that. Well, I recently moved and couldn’t find the manual, so I went ahead and tried it. Connected directly to one of my power supplies, I had it set to resistance, and absolutely nothing happened. I ran through different voltage ranges, and nothing happened. The screen on the clamp meter stayed exactly the same as it is when you switch to resistance. No beeps, no sounds, no smoke, no smell. I even turned the screen light on to see if it would dim or anything, and nothing. With all that said, that was just voltage, with no external load to draw current. I thought about adding a load to draw a few amps, but decided not to. I don’t know for sure what would happen. Maybe blow a fuse; I don’t know; but I’d rather not chance it. If anyone tries that, or knows for sure what would happen, please feel free to share. Thanks for stopping by the channel.
This or UNI-T UT-210E pro? Im guessing the Uni-T has better build quality and actually cheaper than this when on sale.
Hello hairlesheep. I’m not familiar with the uni-t it-210 pro. I just did a quick look on Amazon. It looks pretty similar to my BSIDE ACM91 though. I do like the ACM91. I will say when I hold the Kaiweets and the BSIDE in my hands, the Kaiweets feels more rugged. I like them both though. Again I have not used or held the UNI. Thanks for sharing.
Good ! I am finding video for habotest. Manual only English , no Russia ?
Hello Bee, thanks for stopping by. So I just checked the manual and it has English, Deutsch, Francais, Espanol, and Italiano. No Russian. Нет русского. Извини за это, мой друг
Hey I just bought one of these, what is the min max for??
It will tell you the minimum and maximum voltages while connected to a circuit.
44:10 seems copyright youtube ai troll caught your copyright infringement and removed the audio of the end of the review, but the rest was great. (got here from the short version)
I think kaiweets are a pretty good affordable brand i have a multi and this amp clamp
Hello AlphaPiggy. Yeah so far I like their products. I have two of their multi meters, an amp clamp, and a power supply, and they all work great. Thanks for the comment. I usually respond quicker, but with Christmas, it’s been a little hectic, lol.
Could you recommend a low amp dc clamp meter for automotive work?
If you’re wanting a low amp clamp that connects to an oscilloscope, I would recommend the Pico low amp clamp. If you want a stand alone low amp clamp/multimeter, I would look at the Kaiweets low amp clamp meter. Not sure of the model number for kaiweets low amp meter. Just go on Amazon and go to their page. Hope this helps
How do you prevent the light from shutting off?
Unfortunately you can’t. That’s probably my main complaint with it. At least, if you can keep the light on, I haven’t found out how to do it. If you find a way, please let me and everyone else know how.
What is model of blue scope on your workdesk?Can you write excact type and brand name?
Hello. The scope is a Micsig STO1104E. If you go to my RUclips channel, you will see that I have videos showing the scope in action, and talking about it. Also, I have videos of my other scope, which is the Micsig ATO1104. The ATO is their automotive scope. It is the one without the knobs & buttons on the right side. The STO is the one with the knobs & buttons. Thanks for stopping by the channel.
@@atomsworkshop195
Thank you.
How accurate when measure DC under 10A?
Hello Cuong. If I remember correctly, it was accurate down to an amp and maybe just under. Once you get into lower milliamperes it begins to drift off. I know they offer another low amp clamp for those lower numbers. Good luck buddy.
Is this the same as hobotest ht206d and maylon ht206d brand?
I’m really not sure. With that said, I do know that a lot of different tools are the same tool, sold under different names. I’m not sure if that is the case with this one or not though.
@@atomsworkshop195 thanks bro, very informative review of the tester, just wondering coz i wast trying to search that model in shopee apps basednin Philippines but ther are 3 brand shows up
Thanks for that. I appreciate it. Yeah, it’s definitely possible. If I remember right, back when I brought another amp clamp (just before I bought the Kaiweets), called BSIDE ACM91, there was another brand, but it was identical to the BSIDE. I think there were 3 total. All identical. Not sure which one was the original. I bought the BSIDE, and it turned out to be a good little amp clamp multimeter. I also bought a Lisle fuel line disconnect master kit, and it was identical to the Matco (I believe) set, but half the price. It’s obvious they came off the same production line, the just got a different sticker for the name.
Mine reads 0.5amps on amps reading even if the leads are not connected or touching together. I wonder if there is a way to get it calibrated to zero.
Hello Anon ymous (nice choice for your name, lol). So, when you turn it to amps, then you want to press and hold the zero button. That will set it back to zero. I don’t have mine in front of me at the moment, but I believe it is the red button on the left. Remember, press and hold it for a couple/ few seconds. I think it will make a beep sound, when it happens. Good luck, and thanks for stopping by the channel.
@@atomsworkshop195 i would have to do it every time I want an amp reading. It doesnt remember its zero.
Yeah, you always want to zero an amp clamp before connecting it to a circuit. This goes for all amp clamps. They all have a zero button to push, or wheel that you turn to zero it. At least the ones I have, all have it. That would include 2 Pico amp clamps, one a high amp, one a low amp (amp clamp). Also, my Micsig amp clamp, and of course the Kaiweets. Also, if it’s the kind you connect to an oscilloscope (like the other ones I mentioned above), always make sure you choose the correct setting on the scope for what type of amp clamp you are using. Example, choose 60 amp on the scope settings for a 60 amp scope. This way your measurement (numbers) will be correct. I hope this helps my friend.
Quick note: I believe the new Pico Scope 4425A has what’s called BNC Plus. It’s basically where your probe/amp clamp connects to the scope, it snaps in, and are basically smart connectors. Used together with the new “smart” amp clamps or probes, the scope instantly recognizes what you just plugged in, adjusts the settings for that clamp or probe; and in the case of the amp clamp, it automatically zeros it, so you don’t have to. Just thought I’d let you know. It’s a pretty new technology. I know Micsig has incorporated it into their new scopes also. I’m sure theirs probably zeros automatically as well. From what I understand, you can use the new “Plus”/ “Smart” probes or amp clamps, as well as the regular BNC ones with the new “plus” / “smart” scopes.
Yo Atom. Where you at bro with the videos.lol. take it easy bro. Just brought my amp clamps. So you know how I do.
Hey DJ, good to hear from you. Yea, I know I’m way behind on videos. Everything is still in boxes. We finally just moved a few days ago. I now have a detached garage to set up in. Only I have to seal it first against pests and what not. I’m afraid to set up in there and mice chew on all my stuff. I’m trying bro. Just been so busy. I’ll get there. I’m glad you got your amp clamps. How are you liking them?
@@atomsworkshop195 nice bro. Nice. Diagnostic is addictive.lol. keep pushing bro. I know you are coming out bigger,new videos when you are ready.
41:26 Your meter is having a problem just like mine. The moment you press the max it adds that 0.2A back up. Mine is worse the "default" DC reading is almost 1A before having to zero out.
Hello y. Once you press the zero button, it should zero out. Try that, and let me know if it works. Hope this helps.
@@atomsworkshop195 No once you circle back to the DC A mode whatever the "default" value comes back and while you can zero it out again, the second you press max/min the reading jumps to that number again. In your video you had 0.1 then you pressed max it went straight to 0.3 (0.2 added as it was the number before you zero'd it out). It's not a concern since your "default" reading is 0.2 but mine is almost -1A. I tried to test the drain for the car battery this issue makes the max button unusable. Played with it for 30min can't find a fix. Thanks for the reply.
I see what you’re saying. I would shoot an email to Kaiweets. I bet they’d send you another one out. I had a blown fuse on one of their multimeters, that I may or may not have blown. Anyway, I asked them where I could get a new fuse, since I was having trouble finding the exact one; and they sent me a whole new meter.
@@atomsworkshop195 Great to know. Thanks again!
I hear ole Hank Jr !! Love it ! lol
Thanks Timmy. Yea, I love me some Hank Jr, lol. Yea they monetized that video and get paid because of that song. Hell, I don’t even get paid for my videos. Oh well, I’m leaving it on there, lol.
@@atomsworkshop195 lol , yep
Multimeter is safer than collecting firearms.
You collect multi meters, i have an old working heath-kit packed away in storage.
That’s awesome. Yea, I just don’t think you can ever have enough of them.
🌹
I came here to see how to find parasitic draws using this very same tool. I ordered it yesterday
Hello I am Her. You should find it pretty easy using this. A thermal imager, (unfortunately really expensive) would help find that annoying parasitic draw as well. Good luck, and thanks for stopping by the channel.
I just bought this as well for the same purpose. Turn off all accessories and lights, Clamp the negative cable, wait till the car goes into sleep mode (may take up to 20 mins) then start pulling fuses and relays until you see the amperage go down. Keep in mind, up to
.30 amps is normal in some vehicles while in sleep mode.
Hope this helps
Hello FortunateDad. Thanks for explaining that to I am Her. I don’t always have the time to do that. I would’ve liked to make a video showing how to track down a parasitic draw (there’s a few ways to go about it) but I’ve just been really busy lately. I was thinking about buying the other one as well. They seem to be really good amp clamps for a reasonable price. I also really like the small size of the one I have. Anyway, thanks for stopping by the channel my friend.
24:34 For the Min Max feature, try it with a range of inputs starting from 0V to 10V, and see if it will show a max of 10V.
When I tried it, it's unable to get a valid max reading because the auto ranging confused it, and can't be range locked the way most auto ranging meters can be.
This one only works if all the voltages applied are within the same range throughout the min max capture session, which is limiting.
How’s it going Wingerrrrrr? Thanks for the question. So I turned on the Min/Max feature to Max. I started my power supply at 0 volts and started working my way up to 10 at 1 volt incriminates. It seems to work great until I get to 7 volts then it shows .oL(usually means over limit). I tried this multiple times. I then did the same thing starting at 6 volts, and it worked properly all the way up to 32 volts (my power supply max). I’m not sure why this is happening. If I start at 2 volts and go up 1 volt at a time, it also shows oL. when I reach 7 volts (also starting at 3,4,and 5). A couple of times I was able to start at five and go up without a problem. I went from low to high and from high to low on Min, and had no problem. Is this the same thing that is happening with yours? Please respond back, so we can maybe figure out why it’s doing that, and help others as well. Thanks again for the question Wingerrrrr. Turns out to be a very good question. I never realized it before until you asked.
@@atomsworkshop195 I think it's because their min max function doesn't ignore the readings during a range change the way it should, and as as result, immediately records the OL indication as the max. The only way to have it work is if there's a range hold option, but unfortunately it's not available on this model.
If they were able to update their firmware to ignore any non-readings like the OL, and just continue capturing the min max readings only after the range change finishes, it would work better.
It's okay for something like a starter voltage drop test, where you connect to the battery beforehand, and it basically stays in the same range through the whole test.
Edit: Measuring a max current draw on startup is okay actually, since the current measurement doesn't autorange, just staying in one range.
So why do you think, it only seems to have this issue (min/max) under 7 volts? I tried numerous different ranges above 7 volts with no problem at all. It just doesn’t make sense to me.
As for the starter test, I don’t know. It seemed to hold the max current when I started the vehicle. You can see that at the end of the video. I don’t know. I usually use my scope (oscilloscope) when I’m diagnosing cars anyway. I like to see everything (volts, current, etc.) over time. For me, my brain just seems to understand it better, seeing it as a waveform. Don’t get me wrong, I like this little Kaiweets clamp meter. Sometimes it’s just quicker to grab that versus getting the scope out. I likes the small size of it for a high amp amp clamp. It has a lot of functions (most do now) that all seem to work well. At least well enough for most automotive and around the house use. I’m not building space shuttle’s, lol. With all that said, I can’t ignore what you’ve stated. I think I need to research that a little, to better understand it.
Wingerrrrr, I really appreciate all your feedback. That’s why I make these. Try to answer questions others might have, and to learn as much as I can along the way. Thanks for visiting the channel my friend.
@@atomsworkshop195 mainly only an issue if your signal starts in one range, and crosses through to the next higher range. When you start off from the lower voltage, it picks the range that gives the best accuracy and resolution for low voltages, but when you increase the voltage beyond the 7V, it has to change to a higher range to be able to read properly.
The meter has several ranges with progressively higher max voltage read capability. The 7V sits right where it needs to change range, which causes the brief OL until it's able to switch gears.
who can you say about "Kaiwest" and "Habotest"?
I found Habotest’s factory and website.
But not to Kaiwest
Hello hvili79. I only have the Kaiweets, but from what I’ve seen on RUclips, there is a couple other meters that look identical to the Kaiweets. I do t know which one was the original. In fact, if you find out, will you post it here, so I’ll know. Either way, I like my Kaiweets. Thanks for stopping by the channel my friend.
I found this.
KAIWEETS TRADEMARK INFORMATION
Mark Identification: KAIWEETS
Last Applicant/Owner: Shenzhen Xinsuicheng Trading Co., Ltd.
Rm 708,blockc,qilin Mountain View Hotel,
No.118,shajing Rd.,shatou Shequ,shajing
St.Bao'anshenzhen 51800
@@atomsworkshop195 strange state. for I do not see a Kaiwest factory anywhere
www.habo-test.com/aboutus.html
Dongguan Habotest Instrument Technology Co.,Ltd is an innovation orientied technology enterprise with an over 20 years R&D team, injection molding, professional production line and assembly capabilities.
And you keep on complaining about the light going out but to be honest, I can read it just as good or even better with the light OFF
Yeah, you can still see it without it (most of the time). I just thought that the light being on makes it better to see when watching it. I make my videos with my phone, so sometimes it seems like you can’t see it (on my small screen), but when you watch it later on the tv, you can. I still think an option to keep the light on wouldn’t hurt. Anyway, thanks for watching, and leaving a couple comments; I always appreciate the feedback. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year 🎊🎆🎈
@@atomsworkshop195 ok well in any case, I love the video. I just got that exact clamp meter for Christmas and I've never used one so 8 found the video to be very helpful. Thank you
Thanks for the kind words. I’m glad my video was able to help you, and I know you’ll enjoy the clamp meter. Kaiweets makes good products. I have three multi meters, this amp clamp meter , and a power supply, and they all work great. Also from a personal experience, I can say they back their warranty. The first thing I bought from them was a multi meter, and somehow one of the fuses blew (possibly my fault). I tried finding the exact fuse but was unsuccessful, so I contacted Kaiweets, and asked where I could get the fuse. I even said that I most likely blew it, and they sent me out another brand new multi meter and a small smart multi meter that they had just came out with. That was really cool of them. Anyway, if you have any questions, feel free to ask me, and if I can I’ll answer it for you.
Hello Julienne. I accidentally deleted the comment you sent asking for another way to contact me. You can email me here:
atomsworkshop03@gmail.com.
@@atomsworkshop195 well I was hoping to maybe do a video chat and you could tell me what I'm doing wrong when hooking the clamp meter up to my car. What kind of car did you hook your up to and why is the amperage so high? I drive a Honda civic and the highest reading I'm getting is somewhere around 45 amps
Take me 5 minute to see the meter . Another 5’ more for nothing
You clicked on the longer review. I also have a shorter one.
Also, I’m not seeing the link, in your comment, to the video that you made, showing the correct way to make a review. Oh, you don’t….
can it measure inrush current?
I don’t see why not. Only, since it’s not connected to an oscilloscope, you won’t see current over time, so I would use the min max feature. This way, it’ll save the highest or lowest number reached. Hope this helps. Also, I apologize for the slow response; I just now saw your question. Thanks for watching, and the question.
@@atomsworkshop195 I saw on online shops more expencive model named HT208D and it claims it can measure inrush current, but max feature should probably do the same thing.
One note. Yes it does MAX current but that is NOT the same as the "Inrush"
Hello John, and thanks for stopping by. I’m not sure exactly what you are saying. I used the “Max” feature to capture the “inrush current” when I started the vehicle. If I was using an oscilloscope, you would see the same thing, but over time. You would be able to see the spike of inrush current drawn, then it would drop back down. Anyway, maybe I’m having a brain fart at the moment, but I’m not sure what I did wrong. If you could explain it a little more, I’d appreciate it. I am not someone that claims to know everything. I’m here to learn, and help others learn what I’ve learned. So, if I’m doing something wrong, I’d like to know so I can correct it. I’ll look for your response. Thanks John.
@@atomsworkshop195 I know this is an OLD video and I am leaning too, but anyway here is my 1 cent on this topic, the difference is how fast can the Meter do the sampling for every reading, some PEAK amps (for example some AC Compressors) have a very FAST (in the milliseconds) peak amp that a normal AMPMETER may not see using the MAX (because of the instrument sampling rate) so the MAX feature will not detect that peak while the INRUSH meter could (i mean at least in theory) because it start the Sampling at the moment the the unit (motor) start and get in a fast sampling mode. so to answer that question yes the MAX may give a close number but not necessarily the true PEAK while the INRUSH mode (if available) will (again at least😁 in theory).
Thanks for the info. Definitely appreciate your feedback. I usually use one of my oscilloscopes whenever I need more precise readings. It’s easier for me to be able to see the reading over time, as a waveform. Then, if needed, I can break the waveform down. Thanks again.
Everyone does not do a large run start AC HVAC CAPACITOR TEST,
You assume that the voltage reading on your power supply is accurate. Why. All you have shown is that the test meter reads about the same. They could both be wrong/
I tested the power supply when I first bought it, with 2 separate oscilloscopes, and they all matched. That’s good enough for my uses, diagnosing automobile’s, and anything else I will probably come across. I’m not building space shuttles over here.
my wife says the same thing about tools. meters. etc.
Hello Anthony. I think the trick is, is to tell them, it will save us / make us money in the future, 😂
@@atomsworkshop195 yes it will
Mine does not work with not contact voltage idk why?
Does not do anything at all
How’s it going William. Sorry to hear yours isn’t working. You should just be able to turn on the meter with the dial, press the NCV button and hold it for about 2 seconds, let off, then whenever you hold it close to voltage, it will beep & show an “L” on the screen. Hold it closer and it should continue to beep, and show an “H”, and the screen should light up orange. Press and hold it for about 2 more seconds to turn off NCV. If yours isn’t doing that, you should email them, let them know, and they should send you another one. The first thing I bought from Kaiweets was a multimeter (I did a review video on it). Anyway, the fuse for the current setting was blown. They not only sent me a brand new multimeter (letting me keep the old one), they also sent me a small smart multimeter (also did a video on). With that said, in the email I sent them, I mentioned I was going to make a video about the original multimeter. They asked if I would be interested in testing their new smart meter. Regardless, I’m pretty sure they would send you a new amp clamp meter. I believe they have a 3 year warranty. Well good luck William. Let me know how it turns out, will ya?
@@atomsworkshop195 thanks for your response I will contact them ac current clamp does not measure maybe its defective thanks for your help
This is NOT Full Review
Where is DUTY test ???
((