With that open motor you are going to want to fab some kind of dust shield to prevent or minimize the amount of metal dust that gets inside the motor. At the very least, you’ll want to blow that thing out frequently using compressed air. Or, eventually find a sealed motor.
Dude, that's badass! I have one of those and it completely sucks out of the box. I have to switch it on, then spin it manually for it to get going and once it's going, it bogs down so easily. I am going to do this with mine!
I'd also fab up a new belt guard once pulley sizes are settled. It's too easy to mutilate a finger or three with hands working around open V pulleys. I did a similar mod to one of the 914mm horizontal belt sanders, although I gutted the junk internal motor and fitted a V pulley into the armature core by using spacers to maintain the motor frame and bearing positions. I then cut a slot in the right end of the cast iron body and fitted a proper BTH induction motor outside and on a false base. That thing has served me for nearly 20 years of hard metal grinding, only shredding the internal tooth belt once (the Chinese original) but the Gates replacement has lasted about 18 more years... lol. It's one of the best upgrades you can do, apart from fitting my pedestal drill with a 2KW DC motor with PWM speed control, reverse and auto start... Always hot rod your workshop gear...
I was just reading reviews on the new model. Seen this suggestion. New one is 3-bills, 3hp motor is 2+bills, new pulley and bearings = better model?? If I went this route I'd just go ahead and add a motor drive/inverter. That route, I could get a 3~ motor (pretty much any HP I wanted) free to offset the cost of the inverter! Inverter control would control start up, you could have it soft start and ramp up, even adjust the Hz to run more efficiently. But like you state; not wanting to be culpable for anyone else's electrical abilities ;)
I genuinely like this idea, by putting a larger motor on it for more torque output. But what is the total Max RPM of the belt and what is the RPM of the motor. You can get those motors in a 3600 RPM or a 1800 RPM. You'll want to match your belt accordingly once you figure out your pulley ratio. Those hobo freight induction motors suck!! I went through three of them. It started up and ran fine for a day and then just internally short. The field windings have the worst coating of epoxy and fail right out of the box or shortly after. I finally opted to go a different route and just ran a treadmill motor after the 3rd one. Hope you have better luck with them. Also being dual capped has nothing to do with startup speed it only means one is your startup capacitor and one is your run capacitor.
With a pulley system driving something that has resistance, Dont go to small on the driven pully wheel The driven needs the pulled torque the longer arm gives. Go big on the driver, but dont go to small on the driven.
Be advised compressor motors like this one are NOT rated continuous duty. Compressor motor Duty cycle rating: Expressed as a percentage, it represents the proportion of time the compressor runs continuously before needing a rest period. For example, a 30% duty cycle means the compressor runs for 20 minutes and then rests for 40 minutes. Cycle time: The total time it takes for the compressor to complete one cycle, including running and resting periods. Run time: The time the compressor is actively compressing air, contributing to its duty cycle. Rest time: The time the compressor is idle, allowing it to cool down and prevent overheating. Examples: A compressor with a 50% duty cycle runs for 30 minutes and then rests for 30 minutes. A compressor with a 100% duty cycle can run continuously without the need for rest periods.
Well... I bought one 3 years ago and have used it for nothing BUT metal work... One of the best tools I've ever had... But the motor is wearing down...
He on this video that he has $500 roughly in this one and the grizzly belt sander. The same size will cost you $500 but it’s not near as strong as this one is now.
I added a graphite platen pad to mine.
It reduces wear on the machine and cuts resistance.
With that open motor you are going to want to fab some kind of dust shield to prevent or minimize the amount of metal dust that gets inside the motor. At the very least, you’ll want to blow that thing out frequently using compressed air. Or, eventually find a sealed motor.
And if possible move all grinding sanding and cutting to a second room or one corner of the workshop
@@cedhome7945 is this CED as in Consumer Electronic Distributors?
Do you want to sell the 9" disc . I can use it.
Dude, that's badass! I have one of those and it completely sucks out of the box. I have to switch it on, then spin it manually for it to get going and once it's going, it bogs down so easily. I am going to do this with mine!
Sounds like one of the capacitors might be bad if you have to hand start it. Might be an easy fix yo atleast solve half of the problems you listed
How has it held up so far? I can’t find any updated videos
Hi Red I just bought this sander did you ever do the bearing up grade what bearings did you use??
I am curious why you didn't use the original pullies and just switch them.
I'd also fab up a new belt guard once pulley sizes are settled. It's too easy to mutilate a finger or three with hands working around open V pulleys.
I did a similar mod to one of the 914mm horizontal belt sanders, although I gutted the junk internal motor and fitted a V pulley into the armature core by using spacers
to maintain the motor frame and bearing positions. I then cut a slot in the right end of the cast iron body and fitted a proper BTH induction motor outside and on a false base. That thing has served me for nearly 20 years of hard metal grinding, only shredding the internal tooth belt once (the Chinese original) but the Gates replacement has lasted about 18 more years... lol. It's one of the best upgrades you can do, apart from fitting my pedestal drill with a 2KW DC motor with PWM speed control, reverse and auto start...
Always hot rod your workshop gear...
Can you repeat that?
Did I miss the bearing upgrade?? I'd love to see the update!!
Any updates? Im about to attempt the same conversion, but dont want to disassemble it if it's not worthwhile. Thanks!
Would it work if u swapped the two pulleys around?
i wa sjust gunna say the same would be mega fast lol i did it on one of my old ones wihtt he og motor went like stink
If the motor doesn’t have enough power, it would slow/bog down to a stop
Love tool upgrade videos
Any updates?
The HF link is dead and it looks like they discontinued this model...too bad, I wanted to get one and try the upgrade
Can you rig that kind of motor on a bike?
So I have a 1.5hp Briggs my governor blew up and I want to switch to a carburetor got a filtered one that filters but i need to buy a tank and a kit
I was just reading reviews on the new model. Seen this suggestion. New one is 3-bills, 3hp motor is 2+bills, new pulley and bearings = better model?? If I went this route I'd just go ahead and add a motor drive/inverter. That route, I could get a 3~ motor (pretty much any HP I wanted) free to offset the cost of the inverter!
Inverter control would control start up, you could have it soft start and ramp up, even adjust the Hz to run more efficiently. But like you state; not wanting to be culpable for anyone else's electrical abilities ;)
Does that on off button switch have a name, and where did you buy it?
Where’s the link for the 3hp motor that you used for this
where can i buy equipment for the machine so it can be like this please help me
I need to get myself one of these.
I genuinely like this idea, by putting a larger motor on it for more torque output. But what is the total Max RPM of the belt and what is the RPM of the motor. You can get those motors in a 3600 RPM or a 1800 RPM. You'll want to match your belt accordingly once you figure out your pulley ratio. Those hobo freight induction motors suck!! I went through three of them. It started up and ran fine for a day and then just internally short. The field windings have the worst coating of epoxy and fail right out of the box or shortly after. I finally opted to go a different route and just ran a treadmill motor after the 3rd one. Hope you have better luck with them. Also being dual capped has nothing to do with startup speed it only means one is your startup capacitor and one is your run capacitor.
Belt Guard?
That's why women live longer than men.
@@sethmcavoy7672 That's a profound observation...
Dont need one.
@@unclejohn5012 I wonder if OSHA would agree with that...
Tarly Fixes all gave you a shout out in his reverse engine vid.
I didn't know that
Not me screaming at my phone “WAIT! SWAP THE STOCK PULLIES FORST!!!”
Get a shorter belt (Tractor supply) and make a hinged motor plate.
I wish us Canucks has access to this stuff for the same money. $450 up here for a comparable unit.
Great content
what happened to the "completed" video?
The title of the video isn’t lying when it says “huge improvement.”
With a pulley system driving something that has resistance, Dont go to small on the driven pully wheel The driven needs the pulled torque the longer arm gives. Go big on the driver, but dont go to small on the driven.
Please bring back the Duromax 999 I'm dying to see it back in action and better than ever please bring back
I'm located in TN, me know if you need any parts laser cut for the channel.
What's up !!
You should've swapped on a Tillotson.
Be advised compressor motors like this one are NOT rated continuous duty. Compressor motor Duty cycle rating: Expressed as a percentage, it represents the proportion of time the compressor runs continuously before needing a rest period. For example, a 30% duty cycle means the compressor runs for 20 minutes and then rests for 40 minutes.
Cycle time: The total time it takes for the compressor to complete one cycle, including running and resting periods.
Run time: The time the compressor is actively compressing air, contributing to its duty cycle.
Rest time: The time the compressor is idle, allowing it to cool down and prevent overheating.
Examples:
A compressor with a 50% duty cycle runs for 30 minutes and then rests for 30 minutes.
A compressor with a 100% duty cycle can run continuously without the need for rest periods.
@ 0:44 you say the sander is $250 bucks, not so the sander from Harbor freight is approx $79
That's for the 4x36 sander. The one shown in the video is 6x48 I believe, which is approx. $250.
I cant imagine this gomer is using an AO belt on this. Hes way too equipped for me to believe hes using an AO belt , but it looks that way.
Well... I bought one 3 years ago and have used it for nothing BUT metal work... One of the best tools I've ever had... But the motor is wearing down...
Used quality metal sanders are always on marketplace for under 300 and you dont get super junk harbor freight sander.
Nothing.....nothing is happening. Please stop asking.
Q-TIP wassup?
$500.00? Why not just purchase a real belt sander
He on this video that he has $500 roughly in this one and the grizzly belt sander. The same size will cost you $500 but it’s not near as strong as this one is now.