Great review. I've been waiting to see your review of the wombot for a while. Based off of bits and pieces and limited reviews, I ordered one a couple of weeks ago and I can't wait to get home in a week to open it. It's my first 3D printer but I consider myself pretty tech and electronic savvy so I think it will work out great. One of your previous videos actually introduced me to the wombot. I really enjoy your channel have learned a lot from you and Makers Muse. Keep up the great work.
Joe, a neat little trick that I do in order to help heating up the platform faster and to higher temps on my older printrbot simple, is to use a piece of cardboard cut to the size of the bed. I can get to 100 degrees in almost half the time, compared to leaving the bed exposed. The only bad part, need to remove the cardboard before starting the auto leveling procedure. Luck for me, the hot end is usually in the lower back corner and it just pushes off the board.
Great video joel!!! I was wondering if you would at some point maybe make a quick video on filaments. Like go in depth about which filament types are best, which do and do not require harden nozzles, and how to get some good prints?? Great job! Keep going!! High Five!
That is a great printer. I can't wait for Chucks videos about the wombot. I loved SparkyFace5's unboxing video. I also loved the blooper at the end. You should keep puttings those at the end. Great job. Will you get the wonbot back after chuck is done or will he keep it?
In Australia we don't use power switches... things get turned off by kicking them... in the face. And as for the rotation of the dial... your lucky he sent you a dial. In Australia... we use our teeth to select what to print... and then hit the punch button.... with our face. It's an Aussie thing...
I like the warning to beginers. It shows you have values and do not praise product just because you got discount or free goods. Well made review. Thanks. (My printer also does not have power switch, I had to made one using relay and now I can power it on remotely using Octoprint :)) High 5 ;)
I go to Aurimas shop to get my filament, and one day while in there he handed me a wearable stormtrooper helmet that he had printed in ONE piece on the the larger version of the Wombot to check out. It was incredibly well printed.
Australia! Australia! Australia! We love ya! IKEA has a couple of sit/stand desks now that might work for you - one's got electric controls and several configuration options (BEKANT), the other only comes in a couple of length variations and has a built-in manual crank (SKARSTA; it's a real crank, not one of their 'adjustable' leg sets that involve the world's smallest Allen key).
As an avid viewer of your show I would like you to know that you have officially got me hooked on 3D printing... my printer hasn't stopped sense I got it. lol oh and high five!
To get the bed to temperature up faster, try a heat gun. Works a treat, you can get to 100 degrees nice and fast. Also Thomas has a video that addresses the reverse knob direction. One of his firmware videos.
Hey Joel, I saw your reddit post yesterday about the giant bender head. How long does it typically take for you to go from recording to editing to publishing videos? I fully expect a giant bender timelapse :) Keep up the good work!
+Brendan Larsen Working on the timelapse right now! How long? Depends on the type of videos, but, I usually get a 5 minute video done, from turning on the video lights to publishing, in 3 hours.
I am a little bit confuse here ! Since the Wombot is now fully assemble ! Do I want a Wombot or a Wanhao ? Witch one work best or have the best potential . As always very good video , the best part being the blooper ...LoL high-five
Funny video. The lack of a power switch may be because here in AUS all of our wall sockets have switches. ;-) BTW, my Exilis arrived last week. Beautifully assembled. Straight out of the box it worked fine. Only issue apart from my lack of experience is getting consistent Z setting.
I could totally see this as my 2nd printer! Joel, please share info about the 3d printing communities you are in ( even if just to your patrons) I've been looking for more places to learn how to take my craft / hobby to next level. Really wish I saw this before I got my Wanhao duplicator i3.
nice review, you did say to me don't bother repairing my 3d printer, thought to myself, have you build a kit. Now you did say. I builds two of my printers (one was terrible so I had to rebuild it), Sintron prusa and Kossel mini and NO instructions... lol, yeah! I built it with my knowledge and worked.3rd one I have Wanhao Di3, that was faulty, now in pieces and working way up with different components as I speak.Last thing now, you got me interest in Wombot XL on your video... I just want to have one... lol! Take care, high five.
Great video Joel! #HighFive . The lack of a power switch upsets me greatly too and I plan to install one ASAP because everytime I plug it in the power board sparks which is bad for the board and bad for the power supply.. overall awesome printer for the price IMO
+SparkyFace5 It sparks? That's not right; mine has never sparked, and my house has horrible electrical wiring and outlets. Have you tried plugging it into a power strip, and turning it off that way? Sounds dumb but I did that to begin with (good idea to have it on a power strip regardless, just in case), and then I picked up the smallest/cheapest UPS (APC Back-UPS 350) I could find and now use that as my on/off switch, as well as a prevention for when my power flickers and would otherwise turn the printer off mid-print.
+Brandon T its sparks because i plug it into a power strip that doesn't have individual switches on it.. which means when I plug in it on as soon as the contact make. for me it is better that the machine has it's own switch rather than relying on the wall switch or expecting the powerboard to have switches
+SparkyFace5 I agree that it's better for it to have its own power switch, and if you want to install one that would be great (especially if you wire it up correctly so you can turn the computer off via the firmware/LCD interface)...but that's a lot more work/time/probably expense as well than to just buy a $10 power strip that has an on/off switch. :) In any case, it was just a suggestion to save you time, not to suggest that adding a power button isn't a *better* solution.
+Brandon T I hear you :) I'm an electrician by trade and fixer/tinkerer and technical explorer by nature. the switched powerboard is a fine solution if placed well. I have had to Emergency stop printers on occasion and when the power board is hard to reach things can get a little crazy ;)
+SparkyFace5 ...doing the "hold up hot-and-moving extruder carriage that's trying to grind its way across the build plate with one hand while other frantically searches for a means of turning printer off" is my favorite move. :-/ I've got my printer in a place that would bother most wives (the dining room; I have no idea why my wife puts up with it, but my computer also happens to be very close to the table so maybe she just doesn't realize she probably *shouldn't* be okay with it? ;) ) but it worked out in such a way that my UPS is in the perfect spot for emergency stops *while* doing the above-mentioned maneuver. So making an on/off switch doesn't really help me, as it's ultimately still just a matter of button-pushing and I've already forked over the cash for the backup power supply. But in any other place/circumstance...yeah. Much easier to just have a Shiny Red Button that does the job correctly, eh? :)
This was one of your funniest videos yet for me as an Aussie 3d printing fan. And no Joel, we are not upside down, you guys just do things Backwards and on the wrong side....like road driving #highfive
The only time I curse when messing with my printer, is when I get bothered #HighFive. I have dove right in and already just about rebuilt my duplicator i3 a few times. Upgraded y carriage, new bearing blocks all around. I even designed the offset ones to adapt the new y carriage. Did the x axis brace mod, cost $15 bucks at home improvement store but made a huge difference. I got a few more parts coming in, then a few more teaks I want to make. Then maybe I will show the world my Frankenstein.
The reason the knob turns the wrong way is that the wrong motherboard number was picked in the Martin firmware. The motherboard number should be 31 I think.
The knob turning the wrong way for the menu options isn't unique to the Wombot, Anycubic does that as well. It's a #define option in the Marlin firmware. In the Configuration.h file for each printer model, see: #define REVERSE_MENU_DIRECTION If turning the knob clockwise also decreases values for settings (e.g.: axis acceleration) then they've used the other related option, #define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION.
Thanks! This is the kit version, and I'm suppose to have the latest version on it's way to my house soon! Let the Wombot people know you want me to review it :)
this is one of your best reviews ever. try putting a piece of aluminum foil under the bed. that should help it heat up. putting a piece over the top of the bed also helps it heat up quicker.
+3D Printing Nerd that's what I currently have on my prusa i3 rework. it seems to help a good bit. cardboard also helped. I've heard that cork works well, but I haven't tried that.
+Jacob Sokolove What about the silicon heat pads I see a lot of people using them online. They say you don't need to use clips to hold the glass down with them either. I don't have to much issues with time to heat so far, but I will try the foil next print.
+MrAdamseye I haven't tried the Silicon heating pads, but I think they require a lot more work to use. the wiring of them is different then a simple pcb heatbed (I think so, I'm not 100% sure though).
Sorry what I am talking about is just a pad used as a heatsink on electronics not the actual heat bed. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HIIFGY/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_g147_i1_sh People are using this ontop of the heatbed, they key thing I noted was no more clips for the glass.
the lack of power button is a bit of a bummer. when I build my reprap I realized I didn't plan for a power button and I felt really dumb. I just use an outlet strip and turn that off and on for the power button.
my ormerod 2 is a rep rap kit and iv just got it printing really nicely again after having a part warp in it. How would you feel about doing another kit now u have done 1? really like the channel keep it up . Hi Five
Thomas Sanladerer has a great video on his channel about the LCD and explains how to open the firmware to change the LCD knob rotating direction. I also believe that there is an option in the LCD menu under i think "control" that lets you turn off the printer without pulling the plug. Tom's LCD video: ruclips.net/video/H3wj9l1hvVw/видео.html
The link to Amazon sells it for 920 american. Why is that? If it's 950 AU shouldn't that be converted to US and be 684? I mean I know you don't control the prices on Amazon but that's a bit sketchy =(
+ReneFloresVlogs Best printer? There are SO many factors to go on. I *just* did my Lulzbot Mini review, and I called that the best printer I've used in it's price range.
Joel, the lack of Power switch on the device is most likely due to the UK-ish wall outlets that have a switch. internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=72220
+3D Printing Nerd Wow quick response! OK Mr. "I totally don't know how to assemble stuff" :D Seriously though, it also seems to be put into the wrong place in the black plastic piece at the top. Compare it to the left side.
Hi Joel Love your Videos You said that you were sad to see your 3D Printer go but you did not say where it was going to lol I was wondering about that love you channel as always # Five
Auto-bedleveling is what make my experiance with 3D printing so much better. I adopted the Lutzbot mini way of doing it for my MendelMal 1.5. And the reason for your Smartcontroller to go the wrong way round when you turn the nop is in the firmware. In this video you find the solution about half way through ruclips.net/video/H3wj9l1hvVw/видео.html
+Dark Alchemist It is a RepRap, just with some unique/nice features/parts, and there's nothing custom beyond the Firmware saying "Wombot" on it. It's just a lot better than every other RepRap clone out there for
+Dark Alchemist ...then why did you ask the question? I'm confused; must be that you're using the term "RepRap" differently than I am, since if a "real RepRap" requires that you can build it using only the instructions on the RepRap wiki, then literally the only thing that would be considered a "real RepRap" would be, well...a printer that someone built using just the wiki instructions (and parts listed therein). Which would knock the Wanhao Duplicator off of the list of RepRap printers, for example, since it's got a metal body that isn't shown on the wiki, despite the manufacturer of the Wanhao even saying that it's a RepRap. So how about this for an answer: the Wombot is a RepRap *clone* (or RepRap-"style"?), as in it doesn't use proprietary software or non-printed parts that you can't buy from somewhere other than the Wombot website (not that I'm aware of, at least), but it does have some printed pieces and design features that are not found on a more plain-Jane RepRap. (Which is what makes it a Wombot as opposed to, well, a "real" RepRap..?)
Brandon T Ahhh. A real RepRap uses all things open source and freely reproducible (a reprap, by Adrian Bowyer's definition is a printer that can self replicate and since he is the originator of RepRap I have to take his word for it). So, for it to be self reproducible the parts are supposed to be freely available in the open source world so it can freely be created/replicated by all. Wombat is not a RepRap nor a RepRap clone but is a nice machine nonetheless. It is like the Chinese calling everything a J-Head but unless it was made by Reif Snyder it isn't really a J-Head and now they are calling all metal hotends a J-Head which isn't even a clone/close.
You're...you're not using a voltage divider to power anything drawing a lot of current right? electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/106718/when-would-i-use-a-voltage-regulator-vs-voltage-divider
+The Hot End Anthony, you need to upgrade the x-arm brackets on that printer - the new one (www.thingiverse.com/thing:1213139) seems much more stable than the older design you've currently got on this printer, the arm used to kinda "lean forward" on mine because the brass nut bracket was lower than the arm but now that it's directly in-line the Delrin wheels have equal pressure exerted on each. You're advertising an older model, mate! ;P (...that or those are newer-new brackets and *I* now have old ones. Hmmm...)
+3D Printing Nerd why not build a table? I found this on thingiverse a while back and just remembered about it now: Beam Table => www.thingiverse.com/thing:1056746 #highfive
+tech TV Hello! Mighty kind of you. It's actually not THAT big of a deal, really. I bet I could load up the IDE on my Macbook and do it myself. The printer is going to Chuck, though, and he can do it if he wants :)
It is my dream to one day give Joel a high five IRL. #highfive #onedayIwillgotoseatleandgiveyouahighfiveoryoucouldcometocincinnatiandthengivemeahighfive
+Zach Scott Heh, I get it. I took a few years of electronics in high school. I've done my fair share of breadboarding, soldering, and proving to the teacher all my stuff worked :) I originally took issue because when I first bought the printer, no indication was made that it was a kit, and all photos I had seen were of a fully assembled unit. It got my expectations all out of whack.
Great review. I've been waiting to see your review of the wombot for a while. Based off of bits and pieces and limited reviews, I ordered one a couple of weeks ago and I can't wait to get home in a week to open it. It's my first 3D printer but I consider myself pretty tech and electronic savvy so I think it will work out great. One of your previous videos actually introduced me to the wombot. I really enjoy your channel have learned a lot from you and Makers Muse. Keep up the great work.
+Bluetamon Thank you very much! Can't wait to see what you create with your Wombot!
A really great in-depth review. Really helpful for those of us looking to get into the printing.
it will be very cool to see what chuck will do to fix up the printer. I love the sense of community i get from this channel. High Five Joel
You can tell a well loved printer by the abrasions on the print bed
Joe, a neat little trick that I do in order to help heating up the platform faster and to higher temps on my older printrbot simple, is to use a piece of cardboard cut to the size of the bed. I can get to 100 degrees in almost half the time, compared to leaving the bed exposed. The only bad part, need to remove the cardboard before starting the auto leveling procedure. Luck for me, the hot end is usually in the lower back corner and it just pushes off the board.
I was impressed by your in-depth review. My daughter was impressed with your teleporting abilities. :D
+Adam Macey Heh, YES! Please tell me she used the word "teleport"?
Yep, those were her words, not mine! Not bad for a 5 yr old. ;)
+Adam Macey are you sure she did not say transport.
Great video, love the closeups of the prints!
Excellent review, Joel! Thumbs up as always!
Great video joel!!! I was wondering if you would at some point maybe make a quick video on filaments. Like go in depth about which filament types are best, which do and do not require harden nozzles, and how to get some good prints?? Great job! Keep going!! High Five!
That is a great printer. I can't wait for Chucks videos about the wombot. I loved SparkyFace5's unboxing video. I also loved the blooper at the end. You should keep puttings those at the end. Great job. Will you get the wonbot back after chuck is done or will he keep it?
In Australia we don't use power switches... things get turned off by kicking them... in the face. And as for the rotation of the dial... your lucky he sent you a dial. In Australia... we use our teeth to select what to print... and then hit the punch button.... with our face.
It's an Aussie thing...
+RamjetX When I lived in Australia we poured beer on things to turn them off.
When he said we were upside down I was like no it's the rest of the world that's upside down!
We have switches on the power point...
You should do a setup/tuning video for this, and other, 3d printers.
I think the XL will be the printer that I buy. thanks for the great review!
+josh newsom You're welcome!
I like the warning to beginers. It shows you have values and do not praise product just because you got discount or free goods. Well made review. Thanks. (My printer also does not have power switch, I had to made one using relay and now I can power it on remotely using Octoprint :)) High 5 ;)
I go to Aurimas shop to get my filament, and one day while in there he handed me a wearable stormtrooper helmet that he had printed in ONE piece on the the larger version of the Wombot to check out. It was incredibly well printed.
+ToB Photography I've seen that helmet, it's cool!
3D Printing Nerd Wearing it was even cooler! :P
Australia! Australia! Australia! We love ya!
IKEA has a couple of sit/stand desks now that might work for you - one's got electric controls and several configuration options (BEKANT), the other only comes in a couple of length variations and has a built-in manual crank (SKARSTA; it's a real crank, not one of their 'adjustable' leg sets that involve the world's smallest Allen key).
As an avid viewer of your show I would like you to know that you have officially got me hooked on 3D printing... my printer hasn't stopped sense I got it. lol oh and high five!
+Nick Letts RETURN FIVE!
To get the bed to temperature up faster, try a heat gun. Works a treat, you can get to 100 degrees nice and fast. Also Thomas has a video that addresses the reverse knob direction. One of his firmware videos.
+Tim Lennard I've read that! It works?
Hey Joel, I saw your reddit post yesterday about the giant bender head. How long does it typically take for you to go from recording to editing to publishing videos?
I fully expect a giant bender timelapse :)
Keep up the good work!
+Brendan Larsen Working on the timelapse right now! How long? Depends on the type of videos, but, I usually get a 5 minute video done, from turning on the video lights to publishing, in 3 hours.
I am a little bit confuse here ! Since the Wombot is now fully assemble ! Do I want a Wombot or a Wanhao ? Witch one work best or have the best potential . As always very good video , the best part being the blooper ...LoL high-five
Funny video. The lack of a power switch may be because here in AUS all of our wall sockets have switches. ;-) BTW, my Exilis arrived last week. Beautifully assembled. Straight out of the box it worked fine. Only issue apart from my lack of experience is getting consistent Z setting.
+Bernie Wolf All of your wall sockets have switches? BRILLIANT! Congrats on your Wombot! Can't wait to see what you've made with it.
+3D Printing Nerd
The opposite dialing would be with the firmware. When I upgraded the firmware on my printer it changed the orientation.
I could totally see this as my 2nd printer! Joel, please share info about the 3d printing communities you are in ( even if just to your patrons) I've been looking for more places to learn how to take my craft / hobby to next level. Really wish I saw this before I got my Wanhao duplicator i3.
+Brad Parler Hey Brad! The major one I am in and belong to is here: facebook.com/groups/makerbot/
+3D Printing Nerd Thanks bro, was just added to the fold.
nice review, you did say to me don't bother repairing my 3d printer, thought to myself, have you build a kit. Now you did say. I builds two of my printers (one was terrible so I had to rebuild it), Sintron prusa and Kossel mini and NO instructions... lol, yeah! I built it with my knowledge and worked.3rd one I have Wanhao Di3, that was faulty, now in pieces and working way up with different components as I speak.Last thing now, you got me interest in Wombot XL on your video... I just want to have one... lol! Take care, high five.
How do you get such incredible finishes on your prints? Whats your process for refining the print settings?
+Drivingtacks2 I just do I guess. I refine settings until I get what I like. No scientific method about it, just try different things!
just print a table with your Gmax, sounds like a perfect plan right :P
Again a great video, Thanks a lot.
I own a lulzbot taz and just got a kit to build a delta styled printer. You should get a delta printer and review one of them
+Nick Moretto I am getting a delta from SeeMeCNC :)
Great video Joel! #HighFive . The lack of a power switch upsets me greatly too and I plan to install one ASAP because everytime I plug it in the power board sparks which is bad for the board and bad for the power supply.. overall awesome printer for the price IMO
+SparkyFace5 It sparks? That's not right; mine has never sparked, and my house has horrible electrical wiring and outlets. Have you tried plugging it into a power strip, and turning it off that way? Sounds dumb but I did that to begin with (good idea to have it on a power strip regardless, just in case), and then I picked up the smallest/cheapest UPS (APC Back-UPS 350) I could find and now use that as my on/off switch, as well as a prevention for when my power flickers and would otherwise turn the printer off mid-print.
+Brandon T its sparks because i plug it into a power strip that doesn't have individual switches on it.. which means when I plug in it on as soon as the contact make. for me it is better that the machine has it's own switch rather than relying on the wall switch or expecting the powerboard to have switches
+SparkyFace5 I agree that it's better for it to have its own power switch, and if you want to install one that would be great (especially if you wire it up correctly so you can turn the computer off via the firmware/LCD interface)...but that's a lot more work/time/probably expense as well than to just buy a $10 power strip that has an on/off switch. :) In any case, it was just a suggestion to save you time, not to suggest that adding a power button isn't a *better* solution.
+Brandon T I hear you :) I'm an electrician by trade and fixer/tinkerer and technical explorer by nature. the switched powerboard is a fine solution if placed well. I have had to Emergency stop printers on occasion and when the power board is hard to reach things can get a little crazy ;)
+SparkyFace5 ...doing the "hold up hot-and-moving extruder carriage that's trying to grind its way across the build plate with one hand while other frantically searches for a means of turning printer off" is my favorite move. :-/
I've got my printer in a place that would bother most wives (the dining room; I have no idea why my wife puts up with it, but my computer also happens to be very close to the table so maybe she just doesn't realize she probably *shouldn't* be okay with it? ;) ) but it worked out in such a way that my UPS is in the perfect spot for emergency stops *while* doing the above-mentioned maneuver. So making an on/off switch doesn't really help me, as it's ultimately still just a matter of button-pushing and I've already forked over the cash for the backup power supply. But in any other place/circumstance...yeah. Much easier to just have a Shiny Red Button that does the job correctly, eh? :)
This was one of your funniest videos yet for me as an Aussie 3d printing fan. And no Joel, we are not upside down, you guys just do things Backwards and on the wrong side....like road driving #highfive
+GothicMixx Aww dude, thank you! Ha! I guess it's all a matter of perspective :)
The only time I curse when messing with my printer, is when I get bothered #HighFive.
I have dove right in and already just about rebuilt my duplicator i3 a few times. Upgraded y carriage, new bearing blocks all around. I even designed the offset ones to adapt the new y carriage. Did the x axis brace mod, cost $15 bucks at home improvement store but made a huge difference. I got a few more parts coming in, then a few more teaks I want to make. Then maybe I will show the world my Frankenstein.
Well done excellent
The reason the knob turns the wrong way is that the wrong motherboard number was picked in the Martin firmware. The motherboard number should be 31 I think.
The knob turning the wrong way for the menu options isn't unique to the Wombot, Anycubic does that as well. It's a #define option in the Marlin firmware. In the Configuration.h file for each printer model, see: #define REVERSE_MENU_DIRECTION
If turning the knob clockwise also decreases values for settings (e.g.: axis acceleration) then they've used the other related option, #define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION.
funny the little printing block was coming loose in the print but col l review thanks for shearing.
+divadonroda5 Howdy! Wait - what was coming loose?
great review buddy was looking at buying
Thanks! This is the kit version, and I'm suppose to have the latest version on it's way to my house soon! Let the Wombot people know you want me to review it :)
Excelente video, alguna vez vas a revisar una ultimaker ?
Excellent video, ever you are going to review a Ultimaker?
Saludos
Can't wait for your FlashForge Finder review. Great noob machine I think.
By the way, I love your review.
Thanks! I just got the Wombot XL in and I need to get it out of the box and see how well it performs against this one!
Hey, We're not upside down. You are!
this is one of your best reviews ever. try putting a piece of aluminum foil under the bed. that should help it heat up. putting a piece over the top of the bed also helps it heat up quicker.
+Jacob Sokolove Really? Thank you - As for the tip, super interesting. I may give that a go.
+3D Printing Nerd that's what I currently have on my prusa i3 rework. it seems to help a good bit. cardboard also helped. I've heard that cork works well, but I haven't tried that.
+Jacob Sokolove What about the silicon heat pads I see a lot of people using them online. They say you don't need to use clips to hold the glass down with them either. I don't have to much issues with time to heat so far, but I will try the foil next print.
+MrAdamseye I haven't tried the Silicon heating pads, but I think they require a lot more work to use. the wiring of them is different then a simple pcb heatbed (I think so, I'm not 100% sure though).
Sorry what I am talking about is just a pad used as a heatsink on electronics not the actual heat bed. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HIIFGY/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_g147_i1_sh
People are using this ontop of the heatbed, they key thing I noted was no more clips for the glass.
I've found hard proof that you're mug is haunted. It moved between 1:05 and 1:07. ITS EVEIL!!!!
the lack of power button is a bit of a bummer. when I build my reprap I realized I didn't plan for a power button and I felt really dumb. I just use an outlet strip and turn that off and on for the power button.
+Jacob Sokolove Maybe that's because here in AUS all of our wall sockets have switches. ;-)
+Bernie Wolf that would be great!
May I ask How many 3D Printer do you have ??
+ArtofModeling It's getting to the point of TOO MANY ;)
+3D Printing Nerd I can take a few off your hands, there's no need to have too many.
You will buy the 3D printer of Mattel for the channel?
+lockpickingmen I'm attempting to!
my ormerod 2 is a rep rap kit and iv just got it printing really nicely again after having a part warp in it. How would you feel about doing another kit now u have done 1? really like the channel keep it up . Hi Five
+TaintedCamper I do have a kit I need to put together currently - a SeeMeCNC Rostock V2!
nice a delta hope it goes well u should do a time lapse if u can i kno things can be difficult to set up for something like that
Awesome Honest review - looking forward to reviews on the Lulzbot and GMax! - also ending parts make the video even better :) - #HighFive
Thomas Sanladerer has a great video on his channel about the LCD and explains how to open the firmware to change the LCD knob rotating direction. I also believe that there is an option in the LCD menu under i think "control" that lets you turn off the printer without pulling the plug. Tom's LCD video: ruclips.net/video/H3wj9l1hvVw/видео.html
While everything _is_ upside down, here, clockwise is still clockwise. Your rotary encoder is backwards, or something :P
When will you be announcing the 3D printer giveaway?
Filming the video this evening!
When is the contest vid coming ?
The link to Amazon sells it for 920 american. Why is that? If it's 950 AU shouldn't that be converted to US and be 684? I mean I know you don't control the prices on Amazon but that's a bit sketchy =(
+JJiG Head to www.wombot.com.au and you'll see the correct Australian price. I don't know about Amazon.
Hey have you did a delta review in your videos I check and I don't think you have a delta 3D printer
So what is the best printer in your opinion? You should make a top printers 2016 video...
+ReneFloresVlogs Best printer? There are SO many factors to go on. I *just* did my Lulzbot Mini review, and I called that the best printer I've used in it's price range.
Joel you really gotta start using a heatgun for that stringing.
+Raizer04 True!
Can you do more 3d paints tactics to get a cool desighn
Great video, I can't wait for the contest to end I hope I win . #highfive ✋🏼
When you get your new Wombot , would you sell the dev one to me please
+Mark Bridgewater I can't! DId you watch the video all the way to the end? ALL the way? :)
I have now :(
What 3d printer do you recomend as my first 3d printer?
I thinking getting the 3d printer or flash ford creator which on is better for someone new 3d world. thanks
Price is currently $920 US @ Amazon
+Ross Potts It's cheaper at www.wombot.com.au
+3D Printing Nerd ah, okay.
who won the 3d printer :o and matterhackers tablet
+pat ayala I don't know, haven't announced that yet! That's coming tonight!
Okay sorry I'm just excited is all :D can't wait - high five
to raise the table why dont you 3d print something like bed risers to raise the table.
I have to say that wombot looks extremely similar to the hictop prusa i3
although I'm sure this printer has better support than the hictop.
Joel, the lack of Power switch on the device is most likely due to the UK-ish wall outlets that have a switch. internationalconfig.com/icc6.asp?item=72220
Does anyone know what model the boat print is from?
Isn't the right lead screw totally out of wack?
+Cutter Slade It may be the camera angle. I just checked and it looks good.
+3D Printing Nerd Wow quick response! OK Mr. "I totally don't know how to assemble stuff" :D Seriously though, it also seems to be put into the wrong place in the black plastic piece at the top. Compare it to the left side.
Hi Joel Love your Videos You said that you were sad to see your 3D Printer go but you did not say where it was going to lol
I was wondering about that love you channel as always # Five
+Tim Erwin I did say! It's at the very end! You have to watch all the way to the end!
Yes you did chuck should love it Have a nice day #5
Every time you say 'GO' and point, a kitten dies.
+Jai Stanley Sadly, it's true. My hand gestures murder kittens. I'm sorry.
+3D Printing Nerd Ha! Well, apart from the kitten murder, the videos are pretty interesting so I guess it can be forgiven...
Jai Stanley *whew* thank you!
Why dose the print quality on the videos picture
Can't wait t for 10k giveaway to ends in a few hours. best of luck to everyone. Hopefully I win :)
I really want a printer what do you recomend
You commented on the video for the Wombot, so how about the Wombot? Did you like my review of the unit? Any further questions my review didn't cover?
+3D Printing Nerd yes the video coverd everything
Some day you will be able to print a higher table.
he could just print some blocks to make this table taller
Eyy new 3D printing nerd logo #higefive
Auto-bedleveling is what make my experiance with 3D printing so much better. I adopted the Lutzbot mini way of doing it for my MendelMal 1.5.
And the reason for your Smartcontroller to go the wrong way round when you turn the nop is in the firmware. In this video you find the solution about half way through ruclips.net/video/H3wj9l1hvVw/видео.html
I wish this printer were a reprap and completely open or is it?
+Dark Alchemist Um... That's a good question. I don't know the answer to that.
+Dark Alchemist It is a RepRap, just with some unique/nice features/parts, and there's nothing custom beyond the Firmware saying "Wombot" on it. It's just a lot better than every other RepRap clone out there for
Brandon T
If it were a real RepRap I could build it using the RepRap Wiki so I don't think it is.
+Dark Alchemist ...then why did you ask the question? I'm confused; must be that you're using the term "RepRap" differently than I am, since if a "real RepRap" requires that you can build it using only the instructions on the RepRap wiki, then literally the only thing that would be considered a "real RepRap" would be, well...a printer that someone built using just the wiki instructions (and parts listed therein). Which would knock the Wanhao Duplicator off of the list of RepRap printers, for example, since it's got a metal body that isn't shown on the wiki, despite the manufacturer of the Wanhao even saying that it's a RepRap.
So how about this for an answer: the Wombot is a RepRap *clone* (or RepRap-"style"?), as in it doesn't use proprietary software or non-printed parts that you can't buy from somewhere other than the Wombot website (not that I'm aware of, at least), but it does have some printed pieces and design features that are not found on a more plain-Jane RepRap. (Which is what makes it a Wombot as opposed to, well, a "real" RepRap..?)
Brandon T
Ahhh. A real RepRap uses all things open source and freely reproducible (a reprap, by Adrian Bowyer's definition is a printer that can self replicate and since he is the originator of RepRap I have to take his word for it). So, for it to be self reproducible the parts are supposed to be freely available in the open source world so it can freely be created/replicated by all.
Wombat is not a RepRap nor a RepRap clone but is a nice machine nonetheless. It is like the Chinese calling everything a J-Head but unless it was made by Reif Snyder it isn't really a J-Head and now they are calling all metal hotends a J-Head which isn't even a clone/close.
Can this sensor be adapted to a makerfarm i3v Pegasus 3d printer?
the induction probe? most likely? look into a BLTouch as well.
What is BL touch?
eddygale a auto level sensor but mechanical and not inductiv
I have prusa i3 and my end stops are not doing anything do I have configure settings or should they just work ?
check to see if you have them as normally open or normally closed in Marlin. also make sure you plugged them in correctly.
Jacob Sokolove how to i check........i am so noob
+jholotan best email me your Marlin file. soccerox817@gmail.com
does your printer turn off when they are hit? if yes turn the plug(conection, the one that links to the board) around and retry.
Karl Karlex no it just tries to go trough.
Great video a lot of great info thank you. High Five :)
You're...you're not using a voltage divider to power anything drawing a lot of current right?
electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/106718/when-would-i-use-a-voltage-regulator-vs-voltage-divider
+drojf No! The voltage divider was so I could run the auto leveling probe at 12v but have the probe signal at 5v :)
The NEW pre built printer promo is here ruclips.net/video/sI2Giphh7Ks/видео.html
+The Hot End Anthony, you need to upgrade the x-arm brackets on that printer - the new one (www.thingiverse.com/thing:1213139) seems much more stable than the older design you've currently got on this printer, the arm used to kinda "lean forward" on mine because the brass nut bracket was lower than the arm but now that it's directly in-line the Delrin wheels have equal pressure exerted on each. You're advertising an older model, mate! ;P
(...that or those are newer-new brackets and *I* now have old ones. Hmmm...)
+3D Printing Nerd why not build a table? I found this on thingiverse a while back and just remembered about it now: Beam Table => www.thingiverse.com/thing:1056746 #highfive
do it really have a 0.1mm nozzle ?
+Zplizor NO! 0.4mm - Did I say 0.1? If I did, I didn't mean it.
+3D Printing Nerd I think you did :-)
Zplizor CRAP.
*drops coffee on printer
Hi, If you wan't you could send me a copy of your marlin firmware so I can reverse the knob direction for you and resend it.
+tech TV Hello! Mighty kind of you. It's actually not THAT big of a deal, really. I bet I could load up the IDE on my Macbook and do it myself. The printer is going to Chuck, though, and he can do it if he wants :)
Okay, no problem:-)
10x10 bed heats up way faster :)
Did I win the giveway????????
I don't know! picking the winner and filming the announcement video tonight!
but but but what about the bulbasaurs? Q.Q
+LucidGhost They got shy and asked not to be spoken of. Sshhhh.
Tardi?
Do Australians #HIFIVE with the other hand?
It is my dream to one day give Joel a high five IRL. #highfive #onedayIwillgotoseatleandgiveyouahighfiveoryoucouldcometocincinnatiandthengivemeahighfive
I find it odd that you call yourself a nerd but soldering and building a kit are your biggest issues with the printer.........
+Zach Scott Heh, I get it. I took a few years of electronics in high school. I've done my fair share of breadboarding, soldering, and proving to the teacher all my stuff worked :) I originally took issue because when I first bought the printer, no indication was made that it was a kit, and all photos I had seen were of a fully assembled unit. It got my expectations all out of whack.
Yeah I can understand that, if you think it's fully assembled and it comes in 6 boxes that would give me cause for concern.
Still trying to convince the wife I can spend that kind of money but half the fun is building and tuning in my opinion