Firstly, Different trainers condition and use leash pressure in different ways. Some compulsion trainers will condition the leash pressure to become a conditioned punisher that will stop a dog doing something or make them less likely to do it in the future. While a lot of trainers like myself specifically condition leash pressure to become a cue like a recall trained with positive reinforcement, to mean, come back and stay with the owner. But because most dogs without any initial training find being touched by the leash when they pull aversive, the trainer first has to use counter conditioning to change the dog’s emotional response to the feeling of the pressure to be a positive one, before then conditioning it to be a cue to return to owner. The difference in this training means that when the dog does hit the end of the leash or the owner shortens the leash, the leash pressure will not act as a conditioned punisher making whatever the dog was doing less likely to happen. So with positive reinforcement training, the trainer will then have to reinforce the behavior they DO want the dog to do, otherwise they will get a dog constantly hitting the end of the leash for treats. So to do this while training the leash pressure exercise you will see the trainer, marking and reinforcing for the dog staying next to them as the behavior they do want the dog to do around distractions. Things are not intrinsically reinforcing or punishing. You can turn food and petting into a punisher and something like putting on a leash and harness or even pulling on one into a reinforcer. Over time and in different situations the values change and a punisher can change into a reinforcer and vise versa. So the trainers and owners need to be good at reading their dogs body language and taking note of their dogs behavior rather than just assuming something is a punisher or a reinforcer. Over time a dog could regress to start to find the leash pressure aversive and so more conditioning would be necessary. In the same way a dog might start to not enjoy being groomed the steps need to be broken up and worked on where the dog is having a positive emotional response during the session. The leash pressure game full tutorial- ruclips.net/video/iKG89GVOJiM/видео.html
My question is what about the time the dog didn't learn yet to condition it, but we do need to go out with him for peeing or daily walk because in this time they starts actually to pull and repeat this behaviour... 🤔
@@itlitlitl6 Good question! I would do some proactive training- ruclips.net/video/VwOMIbtoWkk/видео.html when you can and when out to have the pup go to the toilet or walk, you can move slower, point out patches of grass or bushes close together, rather than it being about full speed ahead. For simulated off leash experiences you can have the puppy in a long line and harness dragging- just watch out that you dont get a long line wrapped around your ankles (I wear pants even with puppies and long lines just to be safe). Having a longer leash can also help to encourage the puppy to follow you out and about, you can quickly change direction and speed up to gain their interest in you, where if you are on a 5 foot leash you are so close that you cant really get them interested in the same way if that makes sense.
For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️
Your first video on leash pressure helped me SO much with my dog! He's turning 4 in a couple of weeks and he's turned out for the most part fantastic! A lot of it thanks to your videos.
thanks for this, i'd been woefully inconsistent with this for my husky (who's actually handling it decently despite the inconsistency), but seeing this again is a reminder that i should be more consistent with it AND that i should show this to my partner so we can be on the same page about our dog's training
Our high energy standard poodle puppy (11m) has been a lot more challenging on leash pulling than our other 2, older and smaller, dogs. It's been a gradual process but she's improving.
My standard poodle is the same age. I found having a front clasp harness helps a ton with pulling. Shes gotten better with her over excitement when she sees other dogs but it's still such a challenge.
I saw the title of this video and was immediately concerned. My mind is so ingrained with the idea that leash pressure is always used in an aversive context...too many terrible trainers out there, and i straight away went to the idea of harsher leash tugs/pops/corrections. I never thought of reinforcing the pressure of reaching the end of the leash as a signal to return to the handler! Honestly, it's such a good idea! Aversive and "balanced" trainers are always stating to use the leash, "it's a tool after all"...and here we are, the reward/positive trainers using the leash as a tool 😅 why use the leash as a corrector, when you can use it as a signal to come back!? The latter requires much less effort in the long run haha! Keep up the great work as always!
Yeah, my friend doesnt call it leash pressure with clients but instead teaching "hitting the end of the leash as a cue to come back" but on youtube I like to use the words so anyone searching for how to train leash pressure finds this video sees how great it works and considers this method over conditioning it as a punisher
@kikopup "hitting the end of the leash" certainly is a nicer way of phrasing it 😅 but you are absolutely right to use "pressure" on RUclips...we need to maximise visibility to people to drown out the aversive trainers haha 😄
Hey kikopup! I'm a long-time follower and member of kikopup and I'm currently in a crunch. I have a leash reactive dog (serious puller) that I have been working with for several months. Our turning point was the leash-pressure game! Now with R+ and your training support, he is walking LL quite beautifully. Our number one challenge now is that after I reward him (treat) for walking LL he immediately takes off forward and slightly pulling again. How can I work to help him with this one last piece?! (I tried to look for a video of yours on this but came up with nothing) Thank you Emily!
Thanks for including an explanation of the difference in training approaches. 👍 Can you add a link in the description to the second video you mentioned please? Dogs, like humans, do need to make mistakes at times for effective learning. But we have a responsibility to them to not let those mistakes cause them physical or psychological harm. That's in addition to not using physical or psychological harm in order to teach them.
@@kikopupThank you but that's the link you already have in the description. In this video you mention a leash pressure video at the beginning and a different one just at the 2 minute marker. I've seen an outdoor leash pressure video of yours before and assumed that was the one linked in the description (it's not, now I had a look) so was interested in the other video link. I hope that makes sense? (You can edit your description without affecting views, algorithm etc and it would be useful to have both links there. 😊)
Thanks! Great video with fresh puppy 😊 it helps. Just weekend i saw video of someone who trained it in a not +r way and it looked so sad to me and i thought - aww now i want to see Emily does it as i believe it's right And here it is 🎉
@@kikopupwe are getting closer to a puppy but we haven't yet. Your videos motivates me even more to make it happen finally... Actually I've sent you an email about this this week so i hope you'll find a bit time and see it
You technically can do this with leash pressure that turns off which is not positive reinforcement. I get where you're coming from but it's really not that different than basic pressure and release work. I'm not talking about popping a collar painfully. I got to this with just a long line and turning and having my puppies happily change direction. But I also am not against a dog learning to turn consistent leash pressure off but giving in to it. I pair that with engagement work, long line direction changes, reward placement a step behind me as a place to what to be. So many ways to train. I like your stuff but realistically most people won't take this much time. Thanks for sharing
The difference is that it doesnt become a conditioned punisher. And honestly, the training does not take longer the way I do it, and in fact I educate clients to not spend longer training because then they screw things up.
This is a bit like Jay Jack's Red light Green light game. Haven't tried it yet - I tend to teach reinforcement zones and use neg reinf to finish it off but I'm going to give it a shot.
I think the difference is, focusing on conditioning the leash pressure to be a cue that is a secondary reinforcer so would not function the same if you tried to use it to stop unwanted behavior like using it as a conditioned punisher would
@@kikopup Jay Jack conditions the leash so that the dog knows the pressure as a cue to follow for pos reinf. (Very much like what you're doing except he stresses it has to be the release of pressure that gets pos reinf so you don't end up with a dog that hits the end of the lead for treats) Then he uses it as a game of negative reinforcement. If I stop and you feel the leash (on a flat collar), I win. If you see it and avoid it, you win. If it's a conditioned punisher it still works in a way that the dog has a positive emotional response. I think it's negative reinforcement, but without arguing quadrants it's totally a game that a lot of dogs love if you get it right. Negative reinforcement (I'm using them again, sorry!) is not punishment. It can be a tactile cue or it can be like luring. It doesn't have to be painful to work. Just like we play board games. We're working to avoid that uncomfortable sensation of losing, but it's not painful and it's hella fun.
I absolutely have to ask this: Does this not reward the dog to pull? It's not like you're the only one in control of the 'tug' cue, in fact in this video the dog is a 100% in control of the 'tug' cue. So essentially the dog's action 'Tug on the leash' is rewarded with a treat. Their own action equals the 'cue', so they can 'cue' as often as they want to to get a treat. I've personally taught my dog an amazing recall. I usually call him when he's far away or not paying attention, as to 'proof' his recall. After a few weeks he would purposely walk very far away from me, 'pretend' to be sniffing a bush, or 'pretend' to turn his back to me, but I could tell by the way he occassionally looked at me that he was absolutely expecting me to recall him. Ofcourse I don't recall him in such moments often and usually only recall when he's legitimately distracted. The downside is that he now strays way too far from me and will sometimes refuse to follow me because he's pretending to be distracted so that I'll recall him. I can already predict what my dog would do if I followed the method in this video. After a while he'll know the 'trick' and will purposefully walk to the edge of the lead untill there's a tug and then immideately turn back for a treat and will then go right back doing the same thing over again. Tug, treat, tug, treat, etc. I've had this 'problem' quite often in +R and no one has really explained to me how to avoid this. I have a command for him to get off the bed after which he gets a treat. He listens beautifully, but now jumps on the bed all the time in anticipation of being told off and rewarded. I really hope you'll reply to this. No one has been able to explain. I'm sure not all dogs will do this, but my dog is really good at recognising action + consequence patterns. The only thing that helps is to 'cue' as randomly as possible so no associations are made. But even then, associations are made. We always cue for a reason, and that reason is nearly always the same. What has also helped is habit forming withouth using treats. So if I walk my dog on the long line for a few months and then off leash him again, his habit will be to stick close. I can also get him into the habit of not being on the bed, just by gently pushing him off whenever he gets on withouth a reward. Or even go as far as to block entrance to the bed. After a few weeks he'll have a habit of lying next to the bed.
What about running? My dog struggles with pulling just in general, but I’ll allow him to pull more with a harness. I feel like if I teach him not to pull it would be difficult when I start running with him.
Are you doing canicross where you want him to pull you? howlingdogalaska.com/ this company makes great canicross harnesses. You could just use one when you want the pulling and the normal harness for not pulling. If you dont want pulling when running or riding a bike but want the dog at your side running with you, for most dogs you have to train it- you first mark and reinforce walking at your side and stoping when you stop, then trotting then running. You can do it in your yard or go back and forth at a park if you dont have a yard so that your dog finds it easier to stay with you, just start to run mark when your dog is at your side, then stop and feed at your side, then gradually increase how far you run. If your dog goes out and pulls jsut stop and make it easier by doing more walking and jogging then a short spurt of running
Our pooch was a rescue from up North that Scavenged for the first year to survive. She pulls towards garbage a fair bit on walks and can be very stubborn. How much leash pressure is okay in getting her to move away? Thanks so much!!
How do you recommend doing all of this with an excited 10 month old pup? He doesn’t find it too aversive, but I think my pup has a lot of bad habits that I’d like to train on, but he is easily the most excitable ball of fur who doesn’t care about treats or play when outside, the smells and walking is just too much fun for him. Inside the house he listens pretty okay, he listens like a soldier with treats indoors. Outdoors he is just… not there anymore.. :)
The same pressure is used, it's no difference and definitely not a punisher. A change in direction is no different than what you are doing and we mark the dogs willingness to change direction and follow with praise and or treats. So long as we are not popping the leash or yanking back on the dog there is zero difference. Calling it aversive is not accurate. You are clearly biased to your methods.
The same pressure is used, it's no difference and definitely not a punisher. A change in direction is no different than what you are doing and we mark the dogs willingness to change direction and follow with praise and or treats. So long as we are not popping the leash or yanking back on the dog there is zero difference. Calling it aversive is not accurate. You are clearly biased to your methods.
Firstly, Different trainers condition and use leash pressure in different ways. Some compulsion trainers will condition the leash pressure to become a conditioned punisher that will stop a dog doing something or make them less likely to do it in the future.
While a lot of trainers like myself specifically condition leash pressure to become a cue like a recall trained with positive reinforcement, to mean, come back and stay with the owner. But because most dogs without any initial training find being touched by the leash when they pull aversive, the trainer first has to use counter conditioning to change the dog’s emotional response to the feeling of the pressure to be a positive one, before then conditioning it to be a cue to return to owner. The difference in this training means that when the dog does hit the end of the leash or the owner shortens the leash, the leash pressure will not act as a conditioned punisher making whatever the dog was doing less likely to happen. So with positive reinforcement training, the trainer will then have to reinforce the behavior they DO want the dog to do, otherwise they will get a dog constantly hitting the end of the leash for treats. So to do this while training the leash pressure exercise you will see the trainer, marking and reinforcing for the dog staying next to them as the behavior they do want the dog to do around distractions.
Things are not intrinsically reinforcing or punishing. You can turn food and petting into a punisher and something like putting on a leash and harness or even pulling on one into a reinforcer. Over time and in different situations the values change and a punisher can change into a reinforcer and vise versa. So the trainers and owners need to be good at reading their dogs body language and taking note of their dogs behavior rather than just assuming something is a punisher or a reinforcer. Over time a dog could regress to start to find the leash pressure aversive and so more conditioning would be necessary. In the same way a dog might start to not enjoy being groomed the steps need to be broken up and worked on where the dog is having a positive emotional response during the session.
The leash pressure game full tutorial-
ruclips.net/video/iKG89GVOJiM/видео.html
Lucky puppy to be trained by Emily! Best trainer on RUclips!
My question is what about the time the dog didn't learn yet to condition it, but we do need to go out with him for peeing or daily walk because in this time they starts actually to pull and repeat this behaviour... 🤔
@@itlitlitl6 Good question! I would do some proactive training- ruclips.net/video/VwOMIbtoWkk/видео.html when you can and when out to have the pup go to the toilet or walk, you can move slower, point out patches of grass or bushes close together, rather than it being about full speed ahead. For simulated off leash experiences you can have the puppy in a long line and harness dragging- just watch out that you dont get a long line wrapped around your ankles (I wear pants even with puppies and long lines just to be safe). Having a longer leash can also help to encourage the puppy to follow you out and about, you can quickly change direction and speed up to gain their interest in you, where if you are on a 5 foot leash you are so close that you cant really get them interested in the same way if that makes sense.
@@kikopup thanks!!
Do you mean like a leash pop? I've seen people use it but I don't because I worry about my dog's trachea...
The best trainer in all of RUclips. I’m getting a puppy this Friday and I’ve been binge watching all your puppy videos 😂
Hehe im also getting ready by this channel before i getting one too
How lucky we are!
Oh boy! Congrats!!!
that's gonna be a happy puppy!
For anyone reading this: I know that dog training can be difficult sometimes, but you're doing great. Keep up the good work, and your dog (and your own sanity) will thank you for it! ❤️
Your first video on leash pressure helped me SO much with my dog! He's turning 4 in a couple of weeks and he's turned out for the most part fantastic! A lot of it thanks to your videos.
Oh I am so glad!
I totally relate to this! I owner trained my service dog, and we never would have been even half as successful w/o Emily's wonderful videos
thanks for this, i'd been woefully inconsistent with this for my husky (who's actually handling it decently despite the inconsistency), but seeing this again is a reminder that i should be more consistent with it AND that i should show this to my partner so we can be on the same page about our dog's training
Our high energy standard poodle puppy (11m) has been a lot more challenging on leash pulling than our other 2, older and smaller, dogs. It's been a gradual process but she's improving.
Adolescence is hard to get through for some dogs.
My standard poodle is the same age. I found having a front clasp harness helps a ton with pulling. Shes gotten better with her over excitement when she sees other dogs but it's still such a challenge.
I saw the title of this video and was immediately concerned.
My mind is so ingrained with the idea that leash pressure is always used in an aversive context...too many terrible trainers out there, and i straight away went to the idea of harsher leash tugs/pops/corrections. I never thought of reinforcing the pressure of reaching the end of the leash as a signal to return to the handler! Honestly, it's such a good idea!
Aversive and "balanced" trainers are always stating to use the leash, "it's a tool after all"...and here we are, the reward/positive trainers using the leash as a tool 😅 why use the leash as a corrector, when you can use it as a signal to come back!? The latter requires much less effort in the long run haha!
Keep up the great work as always!
Yeah, my friend doesnt call it leash pressure with clients but instead teaching "hitting the end of the leash as a cue to come back" but on youtube I like to use the words so anyone searching for how to train leash pressure finds this video sees how great it works and considers this method over conditioning it as a punisher
@kikopup "hitting the end of the leash" certainly is a nicer way of phrasing it 😅 but you are absolutely right to use "pressure" on RUclips...we need to maximise visibility to people to drown out the aversive trainers haha 😄
Mia was so cute during these training clips! thanks for explaining +R options for leash pressure training :)
Wonderful training video and explanation, Emily
I’m getting a puppy in a month so I can finally watch your videos for a real dog instead of a hypothetical dog 🙃
Oh how exciting! Congrats!
Hey kikopup! I'm a long-time follower and member of kikopup and I'm currently in a crunch. I have a leash reactive dog (serious puller) that I have been working with for several months. Our turning point was the leash-pressure game! Now with R+ and your training support, he is walking LL quite beautifully. Our number one challenge now is that after I reward him (treat) for walking LL he immediately takes off forward and slightly pulling again. How can I work to help him with this one last piece?! (I tried to look for a video of yours on this but came up with nothing) Thank you Emily!
I like the explanation about how this isn't using the leash as punishment. It's just that the feeling is being conditioned to something positive.
Thanks for including an explanation of the difference in training approaches. 👍
Can you add a link in the description to the second video you mentioned please?
Dogs, like humans, do need to make mistakes at times for effective learning. But we have a responsibility to them to not let those mistakes cause them physical or psychological harm. That's in addition to not using physical or psychological harm in order to teach them.
The leash pressure game full tutorial-
ruclips.net/video/iKG89GVOJiM/видео.html
@@kikopupThank you but that's the link you already have in the description.
In this video you mention a leash pressure video at the beginning and a different one just at the 2 minute marker. I've seen an outdoor leash pressure video of yours before and assumed that was the one linked in the description (it's not, now I had a look) so was interested in the other video link.
I hope that makes sense? (You can edit your description without affecting views, algorithm etc and it would be useful to have both links there. 😊)
@@lemonladyYT So sorry I forgot it! I added it to the description- not to pick up trash on walks- ruclips.net/video/PLuKnrVYmQs/видео.html
Thanks!
Great video with fresh puppy 😊 it helps.
Just weekend i saw video of someone who trained it in a not +r way and it looked so sad to me and i thought - aww now i want to see Emily does it as i believe it's right
And here it is 🎉
Congrats on your puppy! How exciting!
@@kikopupwe are getting closer to a puppy but we haven't yet. Your videos motivates me even more to make it happen finally...
Actually I've sent you an email about this this week so i hope you'll find a bit time and see it
Are there any podcasts you recommend for dog training? It would be nice to be able to audio learn some of this stuff
Love it. Thabks.
Thanks Ted!
You technically can do this with leash pressure that turns off which is not positive reinforcement. I get where you're coming from but it's really not that different than basic pressure and release work. I'm not talking about popping a collar painfully. I got to this with just a long line and turning and having my puppies happily change direction. But I also am not against a dog learning to turn consistent leash pressure off but giving in to it. I pair that with engagement work, long line direction changes, reward placement a step behind me as a place to what to be. So many ways to train. I like your stuff but realistically most people won't take this much time. Thanks for sharing
The difference is that it doesnt become a conditioned punisher. And honestly, the training does not take longer the way I do it, and in fact I educate clients to not spend longer training because then they screw things up.
This is a bit like Jay Jack's Red light Green light game. Haven't tried it yet - I tend to teach reinforcement zones and use neg reinf to finish it off but I'm going to give it a shot.
I think the difference is, focusing on conditioning the leash pressure to be a cue that is a secondary reinforcer so would not function the same if you tried to use it to stop unwanted behavior like using it as a conditioned punisher would
@@kikopup Jay Jack conditions the leash so that the dog knows the pressure as a cue to follow for pos reinf. (Very much like what you're doing except he stresses it has to be the release of pressure that gets pos reinf so you don't end up with a dog that hits the end of the lead for treats) Then he uses it as a game of negative reinforcement. If I stop and you feel the leash (on a flat collar), I win. If you see it and avoid it, you win. If it's a conditioned punisher it still works in a way that the dog has a positive emotional response. I think it's negative reinforcement, but without arguing quadrants it's totally a game that a lot of dogs love if you get it right.
Negative reinforcement (I'm using them again, sorry!) is not punishment. It can be a tactile cue or it can be like luring. It doesn't have to be painful to work. Just like we play board games. We're working to avoid that uncomfortable sensation of losing, but it's not painful and it's hella fun.
I absolutely have to ask this: Does this not reward the dog to pull? It's not like you're the only one in control of the 'tug' cue, in fact in this video the dog is a 100% in control of the 'tug' cue. So essentially the dog's action 'Tug on the leash' is rewarded with a treat. Their own action equals the 'cue', so they can 'cue' as often as they want to to get a treat. I've personally taught my dog an amazing recall. I usually call him when he's far away or not paying attention, as to 'proof' his recall. After a few weeks he would purposely walk very far away from me, 'pretend' to be sniffing a bush, or 'pretend' to turn his back to me, but I could tell by the way he occassionally looked at me that he was absolutely expecting me to recall him. Ofcourse I don't recall him in such moments often and usually only recall when he's legitimately distracted. The downside is that he now strays way too far from me and will sometimes refuse to follow me because he's pretending to be distracted so that I'll recall him. I can already predict what my dog would do if I followed the method in this video. After a while he'll know the 'trick' and will purposefully walk to the edge of the lead untill there's a tug and then immideately turn back for a treat and will then go right back doing the same thing over again. Tug, treat, tug, treat, etc. I've had this 'problem' quite often in +R and no one has really explained to me how to avoid this. I have a command for him to get off the bed after which he gets a treat. He listens beautifully, but now jumps on the bed all the time in anticipation of being told off and rewarded. I really hope you'll reply to this. No one has been able to explain. I'm sure not all dogs will do this, but my dog is really good at recognising action + consequence patterns. The only thing that helps is to 'cue' as randomly as possible so no associations are made. But even then, associations are made. We always cue for a reason, and that reason is nearly always the same. What has also helped is habit forming withouth using treats. So if I walk my dog on the long line for a few months and then off leash him again, his habit will be to stick close. I can also get him into the habit of not being on the bed, just by gently pushing him off whenever he gets on withouth a reward. Or even go as far as to block entrance to the bed. After a few weeks he'll have a habit of lying next to the bed.
Curious what treat bag do you use? I'm looking for one with a larger mouth for easier reach in.
What about running? My dog struggles with pulling just in general, but I’ll allow him to pull more with a harness. I feel like if I teach him not to pull it would be difficult when I start running with him.
Are you doing canicross where you want him to pull you? howlingdogalaska.com/ this company makes great canicross harnesses. You could just use one when you want the pulling and the normal harness for not pulling. If you dont want pulling when running or riding a bike but want the dog at your side running with you, for most dogs you have to train it- you first mark and reinforce walking at your side and stoping when you stop, then trotting then running. You can do it in your yard or go back and forth at a park if you dont have a yard so that your dog finds it easier to stay with you, just start to run mark when your dog is at your side, then stop and feed at your side, then gradually increase how far you run. If your dog goes out and pulls jsut stop and make it easier by doing more walking and jogging then a short spurt of running
Our pooch was a rescue from up North that Scavenged for the first year to survive. She pulls towards garbage a fair bit on walks and can be very stubborn. How much leash pressure is okay in getting her to move away? Thanks so much!!
How do you recommend doing all of this with an excited 10 month old pup? He doesn’t find it too aversive, but I think my pup has a lot of bad habits that I’d like to train on, but he is easily the most excitable ball of fur who doesn’t care about treats or play when outside, the smells and walking is just too much fun for him.
Inside the house he listens pretty okay, he listens like a soldier with treats indoors. Outdoors he is just… not there anymore.. :)
Keep working on the skills inside and then for outside I’d do these types of outings m.ruclips.net/video/lLyiQODnR1s/видео.html
The same pressure is used, it's no difference and definitely not a punisher. A change in direction is no different than what you are doing and we mark the dogs willingness to change direction and follow with praise and or treats.
So long as we are not popping the leash or yanking back on the dog there is zero difference.
Calling it aversive is not accurate. You are clearly biased to your methods.
The same pressure is used, it's no difference and definitely not a punisher. A change in direction is no different than what you are doing and we mark the dogs willingness to change direction and follow with praise and or treats.
So long as we are not popping the leash or yanking back on the dog there is zero difference.
Calling it aversive is not accurate. You are clearly biased to your methods.
Clever tiger 59
Black elk 78
Gentle elk 11
Short designer 86
Strong boy 80