Concept thought: If you had taken a casting of the elm texture before carving the apertures, could you then cast backplates where the body grain texture continues across the plates. Might look cool if a knot hole or grain tear-out defect is deliberately positioned to highlight this feature.
Love the father-son content. Defintitely potential for a series there. Bring him along to learn new skills and techniques, while you teach him about guitar building as well.
With the father/ son content, now I can picture what Ben would look like with hair and no beard. This backplate video reminds me that I still need to paint a guitar with the plastic bag technique - I've done it on a test piece but need to do a full body plus headstock. (not sure if it'd work on the back of the neck without a lot of layers of clear over the top - plus I like satin necks where I can feel the wood)
You’ve reminded me that I wanted to try this for a long time. I actually learned it from Crafsman Steadycraftin. I was watching some videos about it last night before falling asleep and then I wake up this morning and you have more for me! Pretty cool!
Of course, he used a silicone mold, which seems like the way to go. I’m planning on making some fretted viola fingerboards. I figure I can do as you and skip the mold “casing” step by using a baking dish as well. I can make use of the large area by making multiple molds at once with various scale lengths.
I did a number of tests on cold cast metals in resin and found out a lot including using vinegar and other organic acids to produce a patina, and that lead retards the resin hardening by a significant time.
Should be able to take the dust and mix back in another batch. Or make like bronze and while it’s still soft take it to a cheese grater and then mix the shavings in a batch to get multiple colors and effects in them
I'd be interested to see what the finished material feels like, and what it's real strength properties are. Will it 'Pass" for real metal to the touch? Does it feel like the right weight for what it looks like? Is it conductive? If you painted on a thin layer, would it work as 'Shielding Paint'?
Well done guys. Adds a nice touch to the guitar. Have you thought of using titanium, bronze or brass plate and acid etching or using a dremel to carve designs in the metal.
Using silicone would be the "More correct way" of doing it. Not quite sure why hes mixing up two different types of casting here. Silicone molding is the better way of cold casting and produces much more consistent results not to mention better work flow if casting multiple items for sale, Use of cling film would be the same if required.
I've been thinking how to make a Jack plate and switch tip out of Damascus steel... If you have any ideas you'd like to Share, it would be much appreciated. Love the new format
The aluminium powder certainly gives it considerable shielding power, probably measurably less than a solid aluminium plate, but that difference would not hurt in this application. If you were trying to shield military electronics from EMP then the difference would matter, but not on a guitar as the interference noise levels aren't going to be high enough.
Hi Ben, just a quick concern, is this resin safe for you guys to be working with it without wearing any masks / respirators? i've heard resin releases some bad fumes... i watch Katelyn and Evans and they use some serious gear when doing anything with resin...
wouldn't it be easier to cut backplates out of sheet metal and hammer and etch the texture into them than messing around casting them from fake metal resin?
Not at all, I would still need to add some sort of resin inside a shaped back plate to reach the thickness required.. but the major thing right now is that I have carpal tunnel and I'm exploring methods that don't use my hands too much, and also things that I've not done before in guitar building
Concept thought: If you had taken a casting of the elm texture before carving the apertures, could you then cast backplates where the body grain texture continues across the plates. Might look cool if a knot hole or grain tear-out defect is deliberately positioned to highlight this feature.
Love the father-son content. Defintitely potential for a series there. Bring him along to learn new skills and techniques, while you teach him about guitar building as well.
Love the idea of pouring a contrasting resin to fill in the valleys - a copper or brass would look amazing on top of the aluminium.
Wow, Orson has turned into a young man since I last saw him. I know they do that, but it's been a while since we saw him.
The dude seems to have grown two feet in the last 6 months, I am feeling very old right now! 😀
Ha, Delft clay! Where would the world be without the Dutch?
Greetings form The Netherlands.
Greetings!
Hi Orson I'm glad that you are working with your Dad !
great Work Orson and Ben!!!!
Great. You could try and spray the cling film with ceramic auto wax as a better release agent.
With the father/ son content, now I can picture what Ben would look like with hair and no beard.
This backplate video reminds me that I still need to paint a guitar with the plastic bag technique - I've done it on a test piece but need to do a full body plus headstock. (not sure if it'd work on the back of the neck without a lot of layers of clear over the top - plus I like satin necks where I can feel the wood)
You’ve reminded me that I wanted to try this for a long time. I actually learned it from Crafsman Steadycraftin. I was watching some videos about it last night before falling asleep and then I wake up this morning and you have more for me! Pretty cool!
Of course, he used a silicone mold, which seems like the way to go. I’m planning on making some fretted viola fingerboards. I figure I can do as you and skip the mold “casing” step by using a baking dish as well. I can make use of the large area by making multiple molds at once with various scale lengths.
I did a number of tests on cold cast metals in resin and found out a lot including using vinegar and other organic acids to produce a patina, and that lead retards the resin hardening by a significant time.
Great that you're passing on your approach to the next generation 👁👍
great idea!! i wonder what that would look like with Bubble wrap for texture
Ben will never retire. He will be buried with a feet leveling file in his hand. From Crimson of course.
That looks so cool!!!
You could use the ceruse method filling the texture with a contrasting colour, so many possibilities.
I suggested this to Orson comma adding a second thin layer of resin but with bronze powder for example would look awesome!
LONG TIME PROJECT #2!!!! Welcome Orson! is this his first on screen appearance outside of the Ukraine livestreams?
How about a whole guitar body made with this look. Or at least a top? LIke the idea of the bronze filler in the surface cracks, too.
Should be able to take the dust and mix back in another batch. Or make like bronze and while it’s still soft take it to a cheese grater and then mix the shavings in a batch to get multiple colors and effects in them
They look fantastic. Cold cast big bolts to fit in the holes?
I'd be interested to see what the finished material feels like, and what it's real strength properties are. Will it 'Pass" for real metal to the touch? Does it feel like the right weight for what it looks like? Is it conductive? If you painted on a thin layer, would it work as 'Shielding Paint'?
Well done guys. Adds a nice touch to the guitar. Have you thought of using titanium, bronze or brass plate and acid etching or using a dremel to carve designs in the metal.
I'm 100% planning on getting back into acid etching, I haven't played with that in years!
i’m definitely gonna try this. but i think im gonna make silicone molds.
Using silicone would be the "More correct way" of doing it. Not quite sure why hes mixing up two different types of casting here. Silicone molding is the better way of cold casting and produces much more consistent results not to mention better work flow if casting multiple items for sale, Use of cling film would be the same if required.
Side question, do you still need shielding if it's cast aluminum? Just a thought, I'll go back to the gallery & see.
Sprinkling the casting with talcum powder would act as a release between metal and mould
Does it will works for nuts/bridges ? Is it hard enough ?
I've been thinking how to make a Jack plate and switch tip out of Damascus steel... If you have any ideas you'd like to Share, it would be much appreciated. Love the new format
I think you could probably produce a really nice faux Damascus steel using different tints of resin lightly mixed together.
Thats wicked! Is it conductive? does it act as a sheild also? x
The aluminium powder certainly gives it considerable shielding power, probably measurably less than a solid aluminium plate, but that difference would not hurt in this application. If you were trying to shield military electronics from EMP then the difference would matter, but not on a guitar as the interference noise levels aren't going to be high enough.
Hi Ben, just a quick concern, is this resin safe for you guys to be working with it without wearing any masks / respirators? i've heard resin releases some bad fumes... i watch Katelyn and Evans and they use some serious gear when doing anything with resin...
wouldn't it be easier to cut backplates out of sheet metal and hammer and etch the texture into them than messing around casting them from fake metal resin?
Not at all, I would still need to add some sort of resin inside a shaped back plate to reach the thickness required.. but the major thing right now is that I have carpal tunnel and I'm exploring methods that don't use my hands too much, and also things that I've not done before in guitar building
ORSON lad how are ya?
What is the box with all the knobs on over Ben's right shoulder?
Left shoulder as we're looking? Kemper Profiler.
@@PaulCooksStuff Brilliant, thanks a lot!
“or you won’t see the video” lmao
It would've been cool if my dad was a luthier but instead were all truckers lol