I just painted my landlords house who resides in the home to do touch ups...my intentions were as pure as Easter but I mismatched the colors by accident somehow 🙃😅
Been painting for over 40 years (my own stuff) and I learned one little thing thing from this video (getting that excess paint off the top of the bristles on that narrow side). Worked like a charm as I was cutting in today. Thanks!
@@ExpressionsPainting, also watched your trim and baseboard videos. Good info. Wife was extremely pleased with the job I did on the dining room and living room. See some others bad-mouthing your techniques. Hey, your advice helped me do a better job than my just slappin' paint on the walls of years past. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the great video. I tried your technique yesterday and it worked really well. Biggest takeaway was that I wasn't using the brush properly. Getting rid of excess paint on the tip and letting the middle of the brush deliver the paint was an eye opener. Tried it over the doors first and did the whole room without having to tape. I'm not a painter (my guy was booked up) and this was really helpful for a large bathroom. Saved a lot of time.
This is my most aggravating step in painting and you made it into a smooth process that I just have to practice. The cutting and feathering (fade in and out) was explained easily for an inexperienced painter
I’m a professional painter (30 plus years). The Dude in the video has good skills and good advice for the diy-ers. I’d add: use a high quality angled sash brush with a “firm” to “very firm” bristle formulation, 2 to 2 1/2 inch wide and use a high quality “spatter” free wall paint. Some of the cheaper paint “trails” the brush from the bucket to the wall, resulting in long drips on the wall and will spatter on woodwork
Lol If you painted that many years you should know how to handle a brush and not allow those drips. If it does drip just use your wet rag that you should always have on you. If it hits the wall just feather it out and keep it moving.
The angle brush makes a huge difference. I have found a smaller brush about 45mm or say 1½" works best for me but I'm an ammature. I agree with using a thicker paint. Eg today I'm using a stain blocker, instantly thicker out of the can/tin. So much easier to get good coverage without drips.
stiff brush? no way. 2 inch brush on a wall? LOL... no, too small, too many strokes, less paint distribution. 2.5 - 4 inch is best. sash only work in one direction. a true wall brush can work in both directions.
Thanks for sharing. I saw a comment, “That’s why this guy is a pro, and we’re not.” From watching this video I have every confidence I can do it right. Thanks for sharing. I watched a plumber sweat pipe for a water heater. My friends that know plumbers for years said I didn’t do the job myself. Catch the important points. You made important points very clear. Thank you so much.
I like 3 for walls 2 for trim . The straight line starts with the first coat. Often its possible to cut once and roll twice. Being rested and relaxed is also very important.
or you can use painters tape........... even a long drywall mud knife can act as a barrier between what you are painting and the area you want to keep clean
Great vid man! I painted professionally for years, and was fortunate to have an experienced painter teach me how to paint. I always get in that age old argument with the DIY’ers who are utterly shocked to see me painting and cutting a room without using painters tape, and I tell them if you use the proper brush for the job and learn how to use it, you’ll actually save time by not having to tape up everything. When I was trained, literally the first thing the man said to me was “If I ever catch you using painters tape, you’re out of of job because it slows the crew down and costs me money”.
Definitely a pro. Notice that he loads his brush by quickly slapping it 3-4 times against the side of the can, not by lifting it up and wiping it off against the inner rim. His method is faster, doesn't compress the bristles as much or as unevenly as wiping them against the rim, doesn't create a mess inside the can from the rim down, and also leaves more paint in the brush, which means that reloading is also less frequent.
Thank you so much! Your video is the first one that actually gives tips that work!! After watching your video I applied your techniques and finished my bathroom walls/floorboards without tape .... thank you !!!!!
This demo was very good, giving small useful tips for non professionals, doing small jobs in home on weekends.getting equipments, raw mat, &other misc. mat, like waste cloth etc.
Can I ask what kind of brush are you using and when you’re done painting how do you get all the paint off of it? Also, if you have to stop in between, do you recommend wrapping the paint brush in plastic bag???
also I use masking tape on skirting because when you start painting with a roler, then many dots need to be clean etc.etc. It takes some few minutes but you are safe for all work, all day to the end...specialy if need second coat.
Hey man.. I'm a decorator in the UK and would like to thank you for all your hints and tips!! gotta get me some of those brushes!! great channel! Thank you.
Hey bro. I am a very beginner and I am in a job where I need to paint the house. Thehouse is painted already so mainly needs to have only one coat. But I feel very slow. In 16 hours of work I did one room and the ceiling of one toilet and some area in between rooms. The first 5 hours of the job my friend helped me
Yes correct... Priming the brush before starting the job says brother of the brush... Note how he taps both sides of the inside of his can before applying the paint... Thats to put 'er [paint] heavy on the brush [so you get good distance when applying/efficiency] and in same breath taking off more of the paint than is needed to help prevent dripping or sagging in drying paint after applying... In essence it's giving you enough paint on the brush to let you go far in spread distance but not too much that you may end up with too much on the surface that you get the drip or sagging issues... Basically it's the middle ground or lukewarm region between hot and cold... It gives decent coverage ability that way too... [Meaning cut in gets the smeary paint look where not enough paint was applied and you can see the paint coat beneath you are going over...] As for the tapping on inside of paint can and preparing to cut along ceiling corner line in video you saw the painter work backwards into the paint that was already applied... I would do exactly that then... I personally would have gone back the opposite way a second time along the ceiling corner to straighten that paint line to laser straight and worked the brush outwards from the paint you just applied... The key in painting is working it in [rolling or cutting] BOTH directions... In all aspects of painting... When you don't you get speckles in your wall rolling and uneven/un-straight to the eyeball ceiling lines... 'Oh and that slopping of the paint he did before starting to cut the ceiling corner line??? Thats called priming the axe... So you know the difference between it and priming the brush even though both terms relate to priming the brush in preparation for the spreading/applying... Cause axes cut well... Just a way to understand when speaking about it while training... Both instances of priming are needed to get a good cut line none the less... Otherwise you will load up that corner and you won't like the end result... Opposite of straight as a laser line...
I've been painting for 50 years, after 4 year apprenticeship. I've found that a straight, rather than an angle brush allows one to cut in in both directions. speed equals money.
Most union trained tradesman do use a 3in straight cut for cutting in walls. The type of paint and humidity will determine the type of filaments needed.
I been a painter for military contracts since 1999.the old man that taught me was a 3rd generation painter.so I know a thing or two.Good job kid.you made a video that would be valuable to any beginner (and some journeymen).
+Brent Gearhart I'm not sure exactly what you mean by this. Could you send me an email with more information and a picture if possible. My email is on my website :)
You need a little sample container of the same gloss paint. Fill the holes with spackling compound, and make sure it's wiped off smooth before it dries.
You are awesome! Thank you for your tutorial on how to do a cut in. I'm working on window trim right now and tried the technique and it worked SO much better than my old process (tape and prayer). I will definitely be sending people to your channel in the future!!!
In regards to a beginner, would you recommend cutting in one wall at a time, roll then moving on to the next wall to keep a wet edge on hot summer days???
I have painted for many years and never had a problem with the transition from brush to roll. I'll do cut in all around a room and then roll it. You could also roll walls first on your firstcoat. If you get a quality brush the marks are not as noticeable and remember to fade out your cut-ins especially the wall meeting the ceiling. Quality paint, brush and roller nap will get you a professional finish.
You need to talk about the first stroke where you are creating a paint reservoir to spread the paint. Moving it towards the center of the crease. Then. How its better to have a little excess on the ceiling than not enough on the walls. Also, I think its important to make the first cut as good as you can get it.I agree with straightening it out better later. But if you do it right the first time theres very little left to straighten. And you fly.I like your banjo music. I am the golden brush. Retired. I appreciate you helping others with your video. If you ever need my advice. I have 40 years experience as a journeyman painter, hanger.Good luck brother.
Hi Remi! It’s sooo neat! What happens when you get some paint on the wood work? I used masking tape but it’s such a faff. I’d love to be able to do it like you are! Any advice?
Keep a damp cloth handy as it will wipe off easy before it drys. You can also look at caulking a new line and painting with a paint shield, but you will need very square and level walls to get a sharp line. One of the best things to do to practice cutting in sharp lines is the stick some masking tape in straight lines on a wall (that is going to be decorated) then practice cutting against the masking tape trying not to go over the line.
You're using a sash brush designed for window sashes and only meant to go in one direction. First year apprentice training, always finish into wet so you don't get jab marks.With acrylic paints like promar 200 it works best to roll first to avoid double coating at the cut in. You can control the cut to the rolled area. Try it it is much faster, saves paint and looks much better.
Agreed. Cannot detect any coverage issues on a second coat that is within say 1/8 inch from the outermost line of the first coat. Something else he didn't describe or show: A person can push a pencil into the ceiling/wall joint and slightly mark a line all the way around. Then, those hard to see corners are easily handled, because the smart painter can then see the joint. I am also right handed but learned to draw the brush in the opposite direction than that being shown. I will, however, use the right-to-left technique minimally to reach out before moving the ladder. Been painting professionally for 50 years and was taught by an expert back then.
And one more thing. Lots of time today's paint comes very thick - too dang thick to cut in properly. It is wise to thin the paint to be used for cutting in, so that it will flow properly allowing those longer strokes that make straight lines. Typically the paint can be thinned minimally in the cut-in bucket only and the applied straight from the bucket with rollers.
Do you have any tips for cutting in with very textured walls? My walls have some sort of texture that was like plaster scraped on with a trowel? so that buts up against my crown molding and my floor trim. Great videos thank so much!
I’m in the process of decorating for the first time but I have t blended my edges so I can clearly see the difference between brush and roller. Can this be fixed? Tia!
Hello Rémi, first I would like to sincerely thank you for all of your helpful painting videos. I only have a year and a half of painting experience so I still have everything to learn. I'm curious if you have a preferred brand of brushes, roller sleeves and rollers. I work for a renovation and construction company in Québec and we buy Aqualine and Jasper brushes (mostly synthetic since we mostly work in latex paint) which are the best we've used so far. We try to always have an army of brushes on hand but we mostly use two and a half angle sash brushes and despite cleaning and storage, they still lose their form and spring after two job sites max. I've heard there are brushes and sleeves that could last a lifetime! Same principle with roller sleeves (we never clean ours - just toss them) and we buy Richard, ,Rona, Uberhaus, or Simms rollers and sleeves. Any preferences or suggestions? And thank you again!
Hi Tiffany, I have never worked with those brushes but I can tell you that a brush being out of shape after 2 jobs doesn't seem normal to me. Two things are important in order to maintain the brushes: 1- Proper Cleaning (see my video about how to wash brushes and rollers) 2- Proper storage in their original cases As for the roller sleeves, typically a roller doesn't work the best the first time you use it. So if you're throwing it out after each use you're never working with a proper roller sleeve. This effect is more evident in wooven rollers. As for my preferred brushes I like Nours Nature's Palette and Wooster Extra Firm both in the 2.5 inch sash. For roller sleeves it depends on what I'm painting. Ceiling I prefer a thicker wooven roller from Purdy. Walls I prefer a micro fiber roller 13mm. For cages and extension poles I'm a big fan of Wooster mostly because of the quick release system :)
Do you do 2 coats of the edges before you use the roller to paint the whole wall? Or 1 coat on the edges and wall then repeat the whole procedure for a 2nd coat?
depends on what type of paint. eggshell for instance you cut one wall then roll it before you move on...then repeat. flat paint you can cut entire room twice then roll twice.
Good job, nice video. Just a tip for all the young and aspiring painters out there. Stay off your knees and stretch your legs. You will be to go faster and longer as you get older. ;)
These vids are great! Be kind- amateur question from a first time decorator. Can I second coat 'cut in's before I've even touched a roller for the rest of the big mid sections of wall or is it always best to cut in, roll, cut in, roll? Thanks!
How I wish I knew when I have the right amount of paint on my brush for cut-ins…and a steady hand so I can get that straight cut-in so effortlessly LIKE YOU DO! 😣
Kyle_of_the_Dead that depends on both your personal preference and the type of paint you're working with. But as an example the thicker paints work best with stiff bristles. If you want to learn more, there is a Free Painter Training Program at Expressions Painting University (link is in the description box). In it I explain how a straight line is achieved using the bend of the bristles :)
As a designer with enough info, I advice you to use washable glossy paint for bathrooms for next time if you already finished. Moisture is a huge problem ~ if you are using dry normal Paint, it isn't ideal and will come off in dear sweet short time :( Of course tiling bathroom walls is much more efficient Good luck :)
Many painters recommend cutting 1 wall at a time and paint it with the roller while the cutting paint is still fresh. Is that true? I used to cut the whole room first and then use the roller. Which method is right or better? Need to paint tomorrow.
Yes to maintain a wet edge for DIY painting that is usually the case as it is at a slower pace, compared to contract painting that tend to be faster other wise the paint could "picture frame" or "band" on certain colours and brands.
Hi Remi, A big thank you for all your videos, they are a big help! Is it normal to have very small cracks in the corners (hairline crack), not everywhere, but at some places, the paint in the corner seems to crack a little, I use 100% latex acrylic paint. Am i doing something wrong? Thank you and have a nice day
I can't say that I don't agree with your approach seeing how I am not there in person to see the end result. Having said this I would also encourage you not to discredit my approach for the exact same reason. Having said this, I personally find it much more efficient to do it this way and the end result is a really nice finish and a transition that is virtually unnoticeable from the roller finish to the brush finish.
@ Express painting... I've been painting for years and years... and I do it the same way you do... I think the most important thing I learned from the get go was knowing how much paint to have in/on my brush for the area I was painting... never over load your brush unless you want a mess on your hands.
That depends largely on the product and the color. Most products will make it possible to do so with light colors but not so much with the darker colors. On the other hand some products require you to wait for the cut lines to dry before rolling in the walls. Checking with the paint manufacturers data sheet is recommended here.
When you go back and forth with the brush you put paint on but then take it off. Go one direction unless it's textured walls and then you sometimes have to go back and forth
Good tips. I'm now ready to practice on someone else's house.
I just painted my landlords house who resides in the home to do touch ups...my intentions were as pure as Easter but I mismatched the colors by accident somehow 🙃😅
😅👏👏👏👍👍
I had to comment twice 🤣👏👏
Facts
And get paid for it lol
Been painting for over 40 years (my own stuff) and I learned one little thing thing from this video (getting that excess paint off the top of the bristles on that narrow side). Worked like a charm as I was cutting in today. Thanks!
MacQ1955 Congratulations for being honest and open to see new opportunities for growth when they present themselves. Cheers!
@@ExpressionsPainting, also watched your trim and baseboard videos. Good info. Wife was extremely pleased with the job I did on the dining room and living room. See some others bad-mouthing your techniques. Hey, your advice helped me do a better job than my just slappin' paint on the walls of years past. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the great video. I tried your technique yesterday and it worked really well. Biggest takeaway was that I wasn't using the brush properly. Getting rid of excess paint on the tip and letting the middle of the brush deliver the paint was an eye opener. Tried it over the doors first and did the whole room without having to tape. I'm not a painter (my guy was booked up) and this was really helpful for a large bathroom. Saved a lot of time.
Chuck Fulanovich you’re more than welcome. That’s really nice to hear. :)
Exactly what I was looking for, and you did it quickly without having to hear a super long video. Thanks!
This is my most aggravating step in painting and you made it into a smooth process that I just have to practice. The cutting and feathering (fade in and out) was explained easily for an inexperienced painter
As a painter of 10 years, cutting is my favorite part. It's the easiest once you get the technique down
I’m a professional painter (30 plus years). The Dude in the video has good skills and good advice for the diy-ers. I’d add: use a high quality angled sash brush with a “firm” to “very firm” bristle formulation, 2 to 2 1/2 inch wide and use a high quality “spatter” free wall paint. Some of the cheaper paint “trails” the brush from the bucket to the wall, resulting in long drips on the wall and will spatter on woodwork
Try using both hands to cut in as it is faster as u get more cut in done
Lol If you painted that many years you should know how to handle a brush and not allow those drips. If it does drip just use your wet rag that you should always have on you. If it hits the wall just feather it out and keep it moving.
The angle brush makes a huge difference. I have found a smaller brush about 45mm or say 1½" works best for me but I'm an ammature.
I agree with using a thicker paint.
Eg today I'm using a stain blocker, instantly thicker out of the can/tin.
So much easier to get good coverage without drips.
I will use my "firm" to "very firm" cock formulation.
stiff brush? no way. 2 inch brush on a wall? LOL... no, too small, too many strokes, less paint distribution. 2.5 - 4 inch is best. sash only work in one direction. a true wall brush can work in both directions.
Thanks for sharing. I saw a comment, “That’s why this guy is a pro, and we’re not.” From watching this video I have every confidence I can do it right. Thanks for sharing. I watched a plumber sweat pipe for a water heater. My friends that know plumbers for years said I didn’t do the job myself. Catch the important points. You made important points very clear. Thank you so much.
I like 3 for walls 2 for trim . The straight line starts with the first coat. Often its possible to cut once and roll twice. Being rested and relaxed is also very important.
True, and if your line is straight the first time, the second coat is much faster cause you don't have to get as close
Okay. Done watching. Ready to pay someone to cut my lines for me. 💰
or you can use painters tape........... even a long drywall mud knife can act as a barrier between what you are painting and the area you want to keep clean
I feel it, same!
😅😅😅😅
Me too… If I could paint it straight, I would! Even tape makes a mess someone suggested caulking the tape… but I don’t have a week to paint 1 room.
Thank you, so much!! I learned that I must "feather out" the paint, after I cut in. I appreciate the time + energy you took to make this video!
Great vid man! I painted professionally for years, and was fortunate to have an experienced painter teach me how to paint. I always get in that age old argument with the DIY’ers who are utterly shocked to see me painting and cutting a room without using painters tape, and I tell them if you use the proper brush for the job and learn how to use it, you’ll actually save time by not having to tape up everything. When I was trained, literally the first thing the man said to me was “If I ever catch you using painters tape, you’re out of of job because it slows the crew down and costs me money”.
@@highnoter1 you wouldn't last 2 minutes on site then
Untenable position Duh, I think that’s the point…fuck that boss.
Definitely a pro. Notice that he loads his brush by quickly slapping it 3-4 times against the side of the can, not by lifting it up and wiping it off against the inner rim. His method is faster, doesn't compress the bristles as much or as unevenly as wiping them against the rim, doesn't create a mess inside the can from the rim down, and also leaves more paint in the brush, which means that reloading is also less frequent.
Thank you so much! Your video is the first one that actually gives tips that work!! After watching your video I applied your techniques and finished my bathroom walls/floorboards without tape .... thank you !!!!!
This demo was very good, giving small useful tips for non professionals, doing small jobs in home on weekends.getting equipments, raw mat, &other misc. mat, like waste cloth etc.
Can I ask what kind of brush are you using and when you’re done painting how do you get all the paint off of it? Also, if you have to stop in between, do you recommend wrapping the paint brush in plastic bag???
also I use masking tape on skirting because when you start painting with a roler, then many dots need to be clean etc.etc. It takes some few minutes but you are safe for all work, all day to the end...specialy if need second coat.
Hey man.. I'm a decorator in the UK and would like to thank you for all your hints and tips!! gotta get me some of those brushes!! great channel! Thank you.
Do you recommend cutting In the entire room, and at what temperature would be appropriate to cut the room before it starts to dry??? Awesome video
Best video I've seen on cutting in...and boy have I been searching a lot. Thanks!
Hey bro. I am a very beginner and I am in a job where I need to paint the house. Thehouse is painted already so mainly needs to have only one coat. But I feel very slow. In 16 hours of work I did one room and the ceiling of one toilet and some area in between rooms. The first 5 hours of the job my friend helped me
That line cutting is just perfection. Love it 👍
I'm a painting contractor and have to admit good video. Straightening out cut on second coat is key
This dude is a straight boss. Surgical in his technique.
you make it look so easy! Certainly easier than taping huge rooms or hallways!
tape's still useful for glass on window frames
for them razor sharp edges, and next to zero cleanup
Hi what kind of brush are you using in this video tutorial? Thanks
Great video by the way.
Great video. I like how you showed the time lapse of doing the job at the end of the video. It's nice to see it being done in a DIY video.
That was time lapse?? Oh thank God
Thanks for the video; question it makes some difference star right to let, or left to the right.? Whatever work for me. Thank U.
Yes correct... Priming the brush before starting the job says brother of the brush... Note how he taps both sides of the inside of his can before applying the paint... Thats to put 'er [paint] heavy on the brush [so you get good distance when applying/efficiency] and in same breath taking off more of the paint than is needed to help prevent dripping or sagging in drying paint after applying... In essence it's giving you enough paint on the brush to let you go far in spread distance but not too much that you may end up with too much on the surface that you get the drip or sagging issues... Basically it's the middle ground or lukewarm region between hot and cold... It gives decent coverage ability that way too... [Meaning cut in gets the smeary paint look where not enough paint was applied and you can see the paint coat beneath you are going over...] As for the tapping on inside of paint can and preparing to cut along ceiling corner line in video you saw the painter work backwards into the paint that was already applied... I would do exactly that then... I personally would have gone back the opposite way a second time along the ceiling corner to straighten that paint line to laser straight and worked the brush outwards from the paint you just applied... The key in painting is working it in [rolling or cutting] BOTH directions... In all aspects of painting... When you don't you get speckles in your wall rolling and uneven/un-straight to the eyeball ceiling lines... 'Oh and that slopping of the paint he did before starting to cut the ceiling corner line??? Thats called priming the axe... So you know the difference between it and priming the brush even though both terms relate to priming the brush in preparation for the spreading/applying... Cause axes cut well... Just a way to understand when speaking about it while training... Both instances of priming are needed to get a good cut line none the less... Otherwise you will load up that corner and you won't like the end result... Opposite of straight as a laser line...
I just got a painting contract for a building and the cutting tips helped alot thanks
your hand is so smooth and you are so patient. loved watching this.. I guess you don't drink much coffee in the morning to keep the jitters down!
I always work faster when the banjo music is going! Good tips, thanks.
I've been painting for 50 years, after 4 year apprenticeship. I've found that a straight, rather than an angle brush allows one to cut in in both directions. speed equals money.
Great tip Remi. Easy peasy, thank you. My problem is, jumping around like a jackrabbit to get my speed up? Any tips?
and just when you thought you were done... Here comes the second coat
I like the term "fade in" and "fade out", which really made sense.
Liang Wang thanks
Yeah I use to have a Fade In haircut for years but as I got older the Fade In Faded Out and now im FORCED to cut it Bald. 😂😂😂
Thanks for explaining your technique. Hope I can do an OK job on this project!
Most union trained tradesman do use a 3in straight cut for cutting in walls. The type of paint and humidity will determine the type of filaments needed.
Good video. I always feather off around plugs and light switches with a little rad roller. Just makes a nice transition.
Thank you! I’m painting my dogs room and needed these helpful videos you made! 😃🐾🐺
Is it possible to get a good paint job in one coat
Your video demonstrations are very helpful. Good tips very informative.
I been a painter for military contracts since 1999.the old man that taught me was a 3rd generation painter.so I know a thing or two.Good job kid.you made a video that would be valuable to any beginner (and some journeymen).
Thanks mate, I followed these instructions and it worked great!
Nice video but could you show how you load brush proper when you knock it against inside of paint tin please
You make it look so easy. Any tips on how to touch up nail holes in finished trim that has a high gloss sprayed finish on it? Thanks in advance.
+Brent Gearhart I'm not sure exactly what you mean by this. Could you send me an email with more information and a picture if possible. My email is on my website :)
You need a little sample container of the same gloss paint. Fill the holes with spackling compound, and make sure it's wiped off smooth before it dries.
You are awesome! Thank you for your tutorial on how to do a cut in. I'm working on window trim right now and tried the technique and it worked SO much better than my old process (tape and prayer). I will definitely be sending people to your channel in the future!!!
lol
In regards to a beginner, would you recommend cutting in one wall at a time, roll then moving on to the next wall to keep a wet edge on hot summer days???
I have painted for many years and never had a problem with the transition from brush to roll. I'll do cut in all around a room and then roll it. You could also roll walls first on your firstcoat. If you get a quality brush the marks are not as noticeable and remember to fade out your cut-ins especially the wall meeting the ceiling. Quality paint, brush and roller nap will get you a professional finish.
That's why this guy is a pro, and we're not. Thank's for the tips.
That’s right ! This is a legend, such a great painter ! Get all my tips from him
Awesome straightforward video! I was doing it ALL WRONG! Thanks!
You need to talk about the first stroke where you are creating a paint reservoir to spread the paint. Moving it towards the center of the crease. Then. How its better to have a little excess on the ceiling than not enough on the walls. Also, I think its important to make the first cut as good as you can get it.I agree with straightening it out better later. But if you do it right the first time theres very little left to straighten. And you fly.I like your banjo music. I am the golden brush. Retired. I appreciate you helping others with your video. If you ever need my advice. I have 40 years experience as a journeyman painter, hanger.Good luck brother.
Would it be wise to use the 4 inch roller above the doorway
Very nice sire, jus curious do you generally fade your cut ins or do you also bankroll with a roller?
Hi Remi! It’s sooo neat! What happens when you get some paint on the wood work? I used masking tape but it’s such a faff. I’d love to be able to do it like you are! Any advice?
Keep a damp cloth handy as it will wipe off easy before it drys.
You can also look at caulking a new line and painting with a paint shield, but you will need very square and level walls to get a sharp line. One of the best things to do to practice cutting in sharp lines is the stick some masking tape in straight lines on a wall (that is going to be decorated) then practice cutting against the masking tape trying not to go over the line.
You do it so naturally. Which brand of brush do you recommend from the local hardware store?
looked like TruBargain
You're using a sash brush designed for window sashes and only meant to go in one direction. First year apprentice training, always finish into wet so you don't get jab marks.With acrylic paints like promar 200 it works best to roll first to avoid double coating at the cut in. You can control the cut to the rolled area. Try it it is much faster, saves paint and looks much better.
I like trying to get a perfect line the first time that way the second coat u can stay away from the ceiling line a lil bit
I hold back on my first coat 1/8"...
Then i run my line on 2nd coat...
Agreed. Cannot detect any coverage issues on a second coat that is within say 1/8 inch from the outermost line of the first coat. Something else he didn't describe or show: A person can push a pencil into the ceiling/wall joint and slightly mark a line all the way around. Then, those hard to see corners are easily handled, because the smart painter can then see the joint. I am also right handed but learned to draw the brush in the opposite direction than that being shown. I will, however, use the right-to-left technique minimally to reach out before moving the ladder. Been painting professionally for 50 years and was taught by an expert back then.
And one more thing. Lots of time today's paint comes very thick - too dang thick to cut in properly. It is wise to thin the paint to be used for cutting in, so that it will flow properly allowing those longer strokes that make straight lines. Typically the paint can be thinned minimally in the cut-in bucket only and the applied straight from the bucket with rollers.
@@glenwunderlich2438 great tip on the pencil trick. Thanks for sharing
Excellent video, very helpful. What is that amazing banjo music please? I Shazamed it but it didn't find it...
Straighten out imperfections in second coat is a good tip I’ll definitely try it
P
It normally takes me five coats to get them somewhere near acceptable. And by that time, I've gone half way across the ceiling too......
To this day I apply this trick to my jobs I do
Type of brush?
Looks like a nice one
I'm trying out new ones the past couple weekd
Do you have any tips for cutting in with very textured walls? My walls have some sort of texture that was like plaster scraped on with a trowel? so that buts up against my crown molding and my floor trim. Great videos thank so much!
well done. Thanks. Pls also advise what kind of paint I shpuld use. I mean what thickness? tks..
How come you only put a little bit of primer on and not cover the whole wall?
Good one, thanks. What's the banjo music?
What do you call that angled or tapered paint brush using ?
Hi what brush do ya use ,it looks thin & are they available in the UK.I noticed you cutting in working away from yourself,which way is best 👍🏻🙂
Your work is so consistently excellent
What’s the difference on the second coat? Thank you for the video! By the way, do you speak French?
The banjo music is what sold me
I make attempts to play banjo. Does anyone know the name of the banjo music being played?
That is incorrect. I bought you from a gentleman named Mr. Black. That was not his real name.
What type of brush are you using I'm always ready to try new brushes
What if you have those crown moldings is it possible to do without masking
How long from start to finish for you to paint that room?
I’m in the process of decorating for the first time but I have t blended my edges so I can clearly see the difference between brush and roller. Can this be fixed? Tia!
Hello buddy, which is the best paint to cut.?
Hello Rémi, first I would like to sincerely thank you for all of your helpful painting videos. I only have a year and a half of painting experience so I still have everything to learn. I'm curious if you have a preferred brand of brushes, roller sleeves and rollers. I work for a renovation and construction company in Québec and we buy Aqualine and Jasper brushes (mostly synthetic since we mostly work in latex paint) which are the best we've used so far. We try to always have an army of brushes on hand but we mostly use two and a half angle sash brushes and despite cleaning and storage, they still lose their form and spring after two job sites max. I've heard there are brushes and sleeves that could last a lifetime! Same principle with roller sleeves (we never clean ours - just toss them) and we buy Richard, ,Rona, Uberhaus, or Simms rollers and sleeves. Any preferences or suggestions? And thank you again!
Hi Tiffany,
I have never worked with those brushes but I can tell you that a brush being out of shape after 2 jobs doesn't seem normal to me.
Two things are important in order to maintain the brushes:
1- Proper Cleaning (see my video about how to wash brushes and rollers)
2- Proper storage in their original cases
As for the roller sleeves, typically a roller doesn't work the best the first time you use it. So if you're throwing it out after each use you're never working with a proper roller sleeve. This effect is more evident in wooven rollers.
As for my preferred brushes I like Nours Nature's Palette and Wooster Extra Firm both in the 2.5 inch sash.
For roller sleeves it depends on what I'm painting. Ceiling I prefer a thicker wooven roller from Purdy. Walls I prefer a micro fiber roller 13mm.
For cages and extension poles I'm a big fan of Wooster mostly because of the quick release system :)
What decent brushes do you syggest any particular make? Thankyou.More comfortable now to take on some of my decorating.
I like the Wooster short Rubber Handle. What brush you use?
You do woodwork before walls?
Do you do 2 coats of the edges before you use the roller to paint the whole wall? Or 1 coat on the edges and wall then repeat the whole procedure for a 2nd coat?
depends on what type of paint. eggshell for instance you cut one wall then roll it before you move on...then repeat. flat paint you can cut entire room twice then roll twice.
Great video! I love clean lines. Hate using painters tape lol
What’s your favorite trim paint these days? Good videos!
Good job, nice video. Just a tip for all the young and aspiring painters out there. Stay off your knees and stretch your legs. You will be to go faster and longer as you get older. ;)
Thank you very much for your help I feel more confident now that my job painting will be something to be proud of.....
mark clifford you’re welcome :)
Cutting straight line is not an issue but it's very time consuming. I will try those edging tools next time.
I used to work for a painting company in Halifax. You're better than most of them. Keep being awesome.
These vids are great! Be kind- amateur question from a first time decorator. Can I second coat 'cut in's before I've even touched a roller for the rest of the big mid sections of wall or is it always best to cut in, roll, cut in, roll? Thanks!
Good question.. shame he didn't answer..
How I wish I knew when I have the right amount of paint on my brush for cut-ins…and a steady hand so I can get that straight cut-in so effortlessly LIKE YOU DO! 😣
You’ve got a great presentation style. I liked how there was no music until the FF, smart. Hang in there, your channel will grow.
Mate.. Regarding the use of water... How high is your water bill?
Do you have any suggestions on soft, med or hard brushes for cutting in?
Kyle_of_the_Dead that depends on both your personal preference and the type of paint you're working with. But as an example the thicker paints work best with stiff bristles. If you want to learn more, there is a Free Painter Training Program at Expressions Painting University (link is in the description box). In it I explain how a straight line is achieved using the bend of the bristles :)
Thanks. I'm about to paint 3 bedroom and 2 bathrooms. Oh Lordy....I need all the tips I can get and this is great.
As a designer with enough info, I advice you to use washable glossy paint for bathrooms for next time if you already finished. Moisture is a huge problem ~ if you are using dry normal Paint, it isn't ideal and will come off in dear sweet short time :(
Of course tiling bathroom walls is much more efficient
Good luck :)
Many painters recommend cutting 1 wall at a time and paint it with the roller while the cutting paint is still fresh.
Is that true?
I used to cut the whole room first and then use the roller.
Which method is right or better?
Need to paint tomorrow.
Yes to maintain a wet edge for DIY painting that is usually the case as it is at a slower pace, compared to contract painting that tend to be faster other wise the paint could "picture frame" or "band" on certain colours and brands.
Did you paint the trim first?
Hi Remi,
A big thank you for all your videos, they are a big help!
Is it normal to have very small cracks in the corners (hairline crack), not everywhere, but at some places, the paint in the corner seems to crack a little, I use 100% latex acrylic paint. Am i doing something wrong?
Thank you and have a nice day
Yes it is normal and I typically use caulking to fix those since it allows flexibility and movement :)
I can't say that I don't agree with your approach seeing how I am not there in person to see the end result. Having said this I would also encourage you not to discredit my approach for the exact same reason. Having said this, I personally find it much more efficient to do it this way and the end result is a really nice finish and a transition that is virtually unnoticeable from the roller finish to the brush finish.
@ Express painting... I've been painting for years and years... and I do it the same way you do... I think the most important thing I learned from the get go was knowing how much paint to have in/on my brush for the area I was painting... never over load your brush unless you want a mess on your hands.
Best tutorial hands down
Do you use an angled brush for the cutting?
Yes! And dont use a cheap one either... Spend the money on a really good brush
You wont regret it. Trust me
emulsion is wall paint. UK.
We paint walls then to finish we cut a neat white line baseboard to wall with gloss/satin paint
That's what I did in this video series :)
Ok sorry but it seemed like you had painted the baseboard and were cutting in with wall paint in the video?
+markos bientos no worries ;)
Great videos Remi! Can you let the cutins dry before rolling as it is hard to keep a wet edge with cutins?
That depends largely on the product and the color. Most products will make it possible to do so with light colors but not so much with the darker colors. On the other hand some products require you to wait for the cut lines to dry before rolling in the walls. Checking with the paint manufacturers data sheet is recommended here.
When you go back and forth with the brush you put paint on but then take it off.
Go one direction unless it's textured walls and then you sometimes have to go back and forth
How many square feet of wall can you cut and roll in an hour?