Lowes has the Sears 7.25 24 tooth ,3 for $15 and change ( 07/02/21), That's all I use unless I am making critical cuts or box joints . The 7.25 wont spin as fast due to physics of being smaller but slow down and take 3 more seconds to finish the cut . Cut a nail ? It dont matter when you toast a $5.00 blade . Thanks for all the great info !
Colin, once again, an excellent fact-packed tutorial! I've recently bought a couple of micro kerf blades for my plunge saws. They are 1.65mm, which I assume is roughly 1/16th in old money. There are a number of articles and, presumably, countless tutorials on the relative pros and cons of skinny vs fat blade, but your tutorial clears up any doubt about the main issue I might have had. I cut mainly sheet material with my tracksaws - both Makita - one corded, the other cordless, so am not so concerned about saving material, but the noise, sawdust and battery saving advantages are my main reason for having chosen to use them. I would not really consider cutting chucky hardwoods with the tracksaw, but thank you for bringing the potential issue of blade wander to my attention. 👍
Great video, Colin. Would like to add that using micro-blades on a table saw may necessitate removing the riving knife (the micro-blade may be thinner than the knife) and thereby reduce safety.
You know, I’ve been researching blades for my table saw and “no one” ever recommends thin kerf blades for small saws. They never bring up the power to kerf ratio. Thank you for the honest info, wish others followed your example.
I'm glad you brought up 7¼ inch blades being used in a table saw. I use a 7¼ inch metal cutting blade in mine too cut aluminum profiles. I know most decent quality woodworking blades can do it but i just couldn't bring myself to do it because I spent a lot more than my cheap Admiral blade from HF and that thing eats aluminum and leaves nice clean cuts. Way better than an angle grinder.
Great video, thanks! I hadn't seen or considered the micro kerf blade before. I had a thin kerf diablo blade in my table saw recently that developed a bit of a warp. Unfortunately, the blade is now pretty much useless. I'm not sure how it happened, but this is another potential drawback to thinner kerf blades.
The advantage with the thicker blades - 1/8" (3mm) - is that you can use them to make slots in cabinet sides for metal drawers that don't need runners (either purpose made like Lee Valley's or from the baking tray section of you local store). With a bit of thought you can also use them to slot drawer sides to hold drawer bottoms - no need to use a dado set or router bit, just tape a bit of 1/8"(3mm) strip to the fence or if you have a good fence system just bump the fence over 1/8"(3mm).
Thanks Collin. I guess the other issue with the micro kerf blade is most of us would not have a riving knife/splitter that thin. That could be an issue trying to cut long stock. Certainly cutting Kumiko parts or decorative stuff as you showed, the micro kerf would be a great boon
I always get the thinnest kerf possible, but i also make buttons so im shaving off 1/8th or 1/4 inch pieces of wood, nearly a third of the wood is often wasted just in the cutting!!! And i often use expensive woods like kingwood, ebony etc
Thanks, that's a good video. I have been looking for a flat bottom grind and haven't been able to find any. Or I'm looking in the wrong places. Where are some places to get a flat bottom grain curved blade?
DIRTY SAW BLADE!! All the carbide has "stuff". Easy Off spray and a brush. Dirt on the carbide requires more HP and creates burning when you stop the wood. But everything else he says is SPOT ON!!
@@UserUser-zm3fo Thats my point, if you have a quality blade it will have a larger carbide tip...which will allow tou sharpen up to 10x. Your mileage may vary. However, a cheap blade like the one in this video is not even worth sharpening as the carbide tip is to small. Maybe you can sharpen them once or twice, again your mileage will vary.
Lowes has the Sears 7.25 24 tooth ,3 for $15 and change ( 07/02/21), That's all I use unless I am making critical cuts or box joints . The 7.25 wont spin as fast due to physics of being smaller but slow down and take 3 more seconds to finish the cut . Cut a nail ? It dont matter when you toast a $5.00 blade . Thanks for all the great info !
Colin, once again, an excellent fact-packed tutorial! I've recently bought a couple of micro kerf blades for my plunge saws. They are 1.65mm, which I assume is roughly 1/16th in old money. There are a number of articles and, presumably, countless tutorials on the relative pros and cons of skinny vs fat blade, but your tutorial clears up any doubt about the main issue I might have had.
I cut mainly sheet material with my tracksaws - both Makita - one corded, the other cordless, so am not so concerned about saving material, but the noise, sawdust and battery saving advantages are my main reason for having chosen to use them. I would not really consider cutting chucky hardwoods with the tracksaw, but thank you for bringing the potential issue of blade wander to my attention. 👍
Great video, Colin. Would like to add that using micro-blades on a table saw may necessitate removing the riving knife (the micro-blade may be thinner than the knife) and thereby reduce safety.
Informative as always Captain Canada. I learn something new every video. Great stuff.
You know, I’ve been researching blades for my table saw and “no one” ever recommends thin kerf blades for small saws. They never bring up the power to kerf ratio. Thank you for the honest info, wish others followed your example.
Thanks for sharing those tips! I sold my table and replaced it with RAS!
I'm glad you brought up 7¼ inch blades being used in a table saw. I use a 7¼ inch metal cutting blade in mine too cut aluminum profiles. I know most decent quality woodworking blades can do it but i just couldn't bring myself to do it because I spent a lot more than my cheap Admiral blade from HF and that thing eats aluminum and leaves nice clean cuts. Way better than an angle grinder.
Great info, as always! Very well explained. Really appreciate the focus on pros/cons of micro-kerf blades.
Great video, thanks! I hadn't seen or considered the micro kerf blade before. I had a thin kerf diablo blade in my table saw recently that developed a bit of a warp. Unfortunately, the blade is now pretty much useless. I'm not sure how it happened, but this is another potential drawback to thinner kerf blades.
Excelente, quanto conhecimentos tem o amigo, ele certamente faz a diferença no RUclips ❤️
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Thank you for information that I never knew.
Really great tips, Colin! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
The micro blades is exactly what I use them for. Cutting inlays or some decorative inlays. You can maximize your material.
The advantage with the thicker blades - 1/8" (3mm) - is that you can use them to make slots in cabinet sides for metal drawers that don't need runners (either purpose made like Lee Valley's or from the baking tray section of you local store). With a bit of thought you can also use them to slot drawer sides to hold drawer bottoms - no need to use a dado set or router bit, just tape a bit of 1/8"(3mm) strip to the fence or if you have a good fence system just bump the fence over 1/8"(3mm).
Excellent tip. Thank you so much sir. ❤
Thanks for your presentation, it will help.
Great job, thanks for your videos
Thanks Collin. I guess the other issue with the micro kerf blade is most of us would not have a riving knife/splitter that thin. That could be an issue trying to cut long stock.
Certainly cutting Kumiko parts or decorative stuff as you showed, the micro kerf would be a great boon
Thanks, most interesting.
Dave
good Video thanks Colin.
I always get the thinnest kerf possible, but i also make buttons so im shaving off 1/8th or 1/4 inch pieces of wood, nearly a third of the wood is often wasted just in the cutting!!! And i often use expensive woods like kingwood, ebony etc
Going to start saving money with 7 1/4" blades for cutting thin pieces of wood!
Thanks, that's a good video. I have been looking for a flat bottom grind and haven't been able to find any. Or I'm looking in the wrong places. Where are some places to get a flat bottom grain curved blade?
Somebody on another video said that rip blades have a flat bottom grind.... I can't confirm this...
Still in envy of those of you who has a shop that allows you space for a table saw.
I feel that, I have everything but a table saw haha
@@Zuxxkij I have a closet full of tool and have to drag everything outside and work on the picnic table.
@@PurpleRhymesWithOrange I have to do the same it's a real pain.
thanks
I found that I was getting blade-flutter using thin blades... (10") it transferred BADLY to the workpieces... 🙄😒
Good video
Is kurf our friend?
Thanks!!
Forget micro kerf, when will we get nano kerf blades?
Just go laser & be done with it... 🙄😬
Awsome.
First time for 1st thumbs up.
TLDR: Full, Thin and micro are 4/32, 3/32, 2/32 respectively
DIRTY SAW BLADE!! All the carbide has "stuff". Easy Off spray and a brush. Dirt on the carbide requires more HP and creates burning when you stop the wood. But everything else he says is SPOT ON!!
666 compered to 667
Why do you use cheap garbage blades, Colin Knecht? Maybe you should do a video on high quality blades verses cheap garbage throw away blades.
If you don't get them sharpened top quality is a waste.
@@UserUser-zm3fo Thats my point, if you have a quality blade it will have a larger carbide tip...which will allow tou sharpen up to 10x. Your mileage may vary. However, a cheap blade like the one in this video is not even worth sharpening as the carbide tip is to small. Maybe you can sharpen them once or twice, again your mileage will vary.
Are your ancestors German? That is a real German surname you have.