Functionally operates just as it should ruclips.net/user/postUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.
I've been using 30W non-det in my harbor freight compressor for 6 years now and it's working great. I change it once a year. I live in a very dry area.
I use Royal Purple Synfilm which goes for $20 a quart but I recently changed the previous oil. The previous oil went through almost 2 years of hard run in a Rolair wheelbarrow air compressor. It went through Summers and Winters and when it came out it didn't look bad at all and no loss of oil. The compressor runs between 6 to 10 hours a day of cycling.
Good info. I considered using that oil, but in a compressor this size it would take 2 quarts so $40 worth of oil. It sounds like good stuff, especially if you are running it for that many hours every day. The synthetic stuff is NOT cheap that's for sure.
@@MattsShop royal purple makes amaxing oils i use there atf and there motor oil for all my vehicles as well as there gear oil for all my diffs its amazing there synfilm oil is worth every penny
You can use these 30 weight in these compressors but standard 30 weight is not for small compressors because they get hot due to rpm of motor and there is a risk the bearing will seize. Rpm is important to select synthetic vs standard. Synthetic have higher Flashpoint and does not gum up.
A simple way to understand is internal combustion engines produce blow back from the combustion/burnt oil/engine wear particles/acids etc. Oil additives deal with these impurities. Air pumps only produce wear particles/moisture, basically. As for lubrication properties, all can benefit from synthetic as its stiction /cling factor is better ie.startup. However a NON synthetic should be used ion break in of engines and pumps as synthetic lube is more efficient and does not allow a proper ring set. But to sum up I use non detergent and change often,usually once a year. Keep good maint. is the key.
Thanks for the intelligent comment. You are 100% right. I like to think that synthetic oil helps protect things a lot better because it is the best, most expensive stuff out there. You are right though. Maintaining anything is the key to longevity.
Man, thank you so freakin much for going in depth! I really had no idea one shall not use synthetic oil at first (aka breaking in the motor) due to those factors. I knew that everyone says synthetic should be ran blah blah and is better in the long run blah blah but now that you explained the reasoning for regular oil then switch to synthetic oil for different purposes. WOW THANKS A MILLION
Yep, my compressor was only $120. I'm using 10w30. I don't think it's had an oil change in a couple years. It's definitely due, I think I'll use 15w40 this time. (Mostly because I have a ton of it)
In 2001 I bought a Husky 60 gallon compressor. It stated Mobil 1 10w30. I ran that since new. I just had to upgrade but it pumped just as good 21 years later and I worked the shit out of it and kept it in an unheated shed outside. No problems starting below 0. But yeah I get it, but a multi viscosity oil will be better in colder temps
That's a Gardner Denver R15 pump (sold by Champion) and that design has been around for 50+ years. It calls for around 2 quarts of ISO 100 oil which is the same viscosity as SAE30.
@@MattsShop I just found your channel, I did a full rebuild and repair on the same Champion compressor about 5 years ago and I'm doing another oil change this weekend. I I just rolled past 1000 hours on it since the rebuild without a flinch, it's a beast.
People worry about using synthetic oil. I have news for you. People have been using regular dino oil in their compressors for a hundred years and their compressors last at least 50 years or more on regular 30 wt non detergent.
“Non-Detergent Oil” Suspends and Circulates LESS Dirt and Solids Than “Detergent Type Oils” Do in Reciprocating Compressor Pumps and Small Gasoline Engines Causing Less Wear on the Internal Parts by NOT having grit constantly being circulated in them. If you have a pump or small gas engine that has a filter system on it, this doesn't matter as much because the dirt and grit will be captured in the filter stopping it from being re-circulated. You can tell when you disassemble a pump or motor by the parts condition in them and how they look compared to a pump that has had polluted oil constantly circulating the grit and solids. Detergent Oils are used on Pumps and Engines that have a filtration system to remove the suspended grit and dirt from the oil.
Detergent oil will emulsify with water and look milky. Non detergent will separate from moisture and allow the water to sit on top of the oil. Water evaporates easier when it is not trapped in the emulsified detergent oil.
Yea, great points! I also hear it lets the dirt and debris fall out of the oil and rest on the bottom. Instead of staying in the oil waiting for an oil filter to remove it.
@@MattsShop yes especially with metal wear particles. Another thing is detergent oils contain additives that leave ash deposits on valves in the compressor head when the small amount of oil eventually works past the piston rings and vaporizes under the compression stroke. Non detergent oil will not leave any ash deposits on valves or top of pistons.
AW oil (for compressors)actually has some anti-wear additives 100 AW = SAE 30 but that is ony for viscosity Properties are different as applications also differ. Still.... it's better to have some oil than no oil and SAE 30 surely does the job
I bought the cheaper ingersol rand oil at 31 dollars per quart. I thought maybe I'm in need of a mental evaluation. Hope it's good stuff. I noticed the t 30 Ingersoll is 38 per quart. Made me think I was saving money.
I actually use chainsaw bar oil you get for $10 a gallon for my flushes when synthetic is on order. I had the same reasoning though. If the garbage at HF is $7 a quart, running an equivalent for a few days til the good stuff shows up can't be any worse.
So, what's the sight glass for, is oil full level to be in the center or just to the top? I inherited a 1959 two stage massive compressor and all I see on the air tank is "John Wood Company" And there is a small metal plate on the pump "model 331 and serial # L424561" no manufacturers name on the pump... but there are casting numbers. Both tank and pump are that greenish blue Kellogg America color. Any help identifying it would be helpful.
On my compressor pump the oil usually stays in the middle of the sight glass. Your compressor sounds like it was built to last. You're gonna have to do some digging on that one!
I google every manufacturer's name followed by the model number and two stage pump. Some identical looking pictures come up but there's no name attached to the pics! 1959 is an old compressor and pump. Wish I could post a picture... I'm sure someone could tell me what it is.
We run non detergent oil in our heavy duty winch motors at a refinery DeCoker… why? Because dust and all other kinds of grime and shit get into the pump.. the non detergent oil allows the contaminants to fall out of suspension and collect in the bottom to remove. Hope this helps
I saw a video here on RUclips that says using mineral oil works just fine. I checked further and all the checking came up with the same yes answer. Then on one site they said Johnson Baby Oil is mineral oil. I check several more places on the internet and the same answer, Baby Oil is mineral oil and works just fine in compressors or pneumatic tools. But before you believe me with your investments, check for yourself to make sure. I've been using it and am very happy.
HAHA impressive. You did your homework. I came across all of this too and it's all true. I don't think baby oil is SAE 3O weight though, and it probably smells pretty. It would be good in a pinch lol.
Yes, on the back of my bottle of non detergent 30w from wally world says 100 percent mineral oil. Only 2.97 quart. air comp oil was $8 at tractor supply for small thing. What could be the diff? besides synthetic, or blend. I have an old school heavy duty industrial one so I fig the old school standard oil would be best than to switch to synthetic?
That's where I got this. The store used to be an Ace Hardware. It has to be SAE 30 Non-Detergent oil. It should say on the back that you can use it with air compressors.
The detergent oils will KEEP the water caused by the pumping of the air in suspension which is very bad and why you must only use NON detergent in things where you dont have combustion byproducts. I use ATF in a pinch.
HEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLL NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ..... Stick with the plan stan , 30 weight non detergent and don't get all "overthinking" around here ...... you might as well pour cement in your compressor as 90 weight bar oil !!!!
You're right. That oil is a "lubricating" oil. It doesn't have any of the additives that combustion engine needs. They sell it gas stations because it's cheap too. People will put it in their cars not knowing the difference. I know two people that did it and the engine seized.
I would try adding a gravity trap at the end of the run before the filter and valve it's just a pipe T fitting with a chunk of pipe below it with a end cap. You can plum a ball valve in place of the end cap to let water out also. You can see this on gas furnace installations. Another thing to try is making the trap a larger pipe size than of the size of the airline. It might be too small and not allowing particles to drop out in stream.
Non-Detergent OIL does not FOAM up. That's all there is too it. Single grade viscosity, ISO 100, 30W non-detergent compressor lubricant So Hydraulic OIL ISO 100 = 30W non-detergent oil.
Hey i have a question I thought i would ask here i have a 1ph 220v Campbell hausfiled 60gallon I’m having an issue of it idling down then up and today it basically bogged down and then started no spinning and making i turned it off right away and im not gonna run it until i figure this our my 220v is good i assume cuz i have my frame machine i use it on and has been good and same with my welder so idk i need some help?
Just put Mobil 1 10w30 in it and be done. No need for ND30 oil, manufacturers have been recommending it for at least 15 years. Remember, most compressors get zero love oil wise anyways. Just make sure drain the water out frequently. Synthetic 10w30 oil is fine though. Suspension of debris in oil is a non issue these days. Modern engine oils suspend debris that never get filtered out regardless.
I still prefer to run non-detergent oil in my compressor. When I fist overhauled the compressor there was all kinds of gunk and grit in the oil at the bottom of the crankcase
@@MattsShop admittedly, I have never done any repair service on an engine that uses straight 30 weight. I do imagine there was a reason that they specified it. I have just never had an issue using a multi viscosity oil in anything I've ever owned.
Long ago I had an Emglo compressor that used oil , I ran it for years and years in construction with just that stuff in your video ... "NON DETERGENT OIL" .... I think I used 30 weight .... ALL of those specialty "lawnmower oils" "Compressor oils" are just NON DETERGENT OIL because the high RPM motors will foam like crazy using a detergent oil for cars , Sooooooo they just slap a fancy label and gouge you for a few more bucks .... it's just NON DETERGENT OIL .... Don't get scammed ...... Or if you do pay good money , just get the best quality Non Detergent Oil , but don't bother pissin around with "lawnmower oil" and "compressor oil" .... It's just a fancy gimmick name for non detergent
Yea, it's all just SAE 30 NON-Detergent oil. Basically just pure mineral oil. The really expensive air compressor oil probably has good additives in it to reduce wear though.
@@MattsShop NEVER had a problem with my compressors and I'm in construction , used them often and hard .... the SAE non-detergent has always worked just fine , never a problem .....
Yea, the better oil is worth it. This thing takes 2 qts of oil. I didn't want to use the good stuff because I was flushing out a bunch of rust and scale from years of condensation. One of the reasons you use non-detergent oil is so that stuff sinks to the bottom.
I'd like to know what all to do to flush out the non detergent sae 30 and change over to full synthetic 10w30 my compressor recommends using Mobil 1 full synthetic if you use it but I've already got regular nondetergent 30 in it.
Where in any of your videos do you show how to do anything but clean the valves? What about replacing the bearings or maybe honing the cylinders and installation of new rings . Try to make a video with some real information.
Leave the channel. I'm not tearing apart a perfectly good engine just just to show you how to fix it. You must not have watched one of my 150+ other videos. Try leaving a comment with some real information.
Yea, the dirt and debris stay suspended in the detergent oil and don't drop out to the bottom of the pump. Non-detergent oil makes the dirt and debris fall out of the oil to the bottom of the pump.
I’ve learned it’s Because they usually have a brass or bronze bushing in the air conditioning motors that are self sealed and they are filled with graphite and non detergent will make graphite swell and it will lock down on the shaft . Do not use : WD-40, 3 n 1 , PB Blaster. Any Car oil is bad .
@@TheSeniorTaco Honestly most any direction except the way he did it works pretty well. Bottle sideways, cap toward the top with the bulk of the oil down, personally I've had excellent luck with bottle sideways for both oil and antifreeze. Smooth controlled flow with no clug clug. The bottle is engineer I believe so you pour with the cap toward the top. Personally I've found sideways to work just as well.
This is basically pure mineral oil. It's as cheap as your going to get. They even sell it at Wal-Mart. Look for Supertech SAE 30 Non-detergent. It's like $3.00 a quart.
YOU ARE WRONG -----WATER RISES TO THE TOP AND EVAPAORATES, NOT SINK TO BOTTOM AND CORODES THE METAL BOTTOM OF THE COMPESSOR- WRONGO DONGO ! So MUCH MISINFORMATION ON YOU-TUBE !
The air tank has a valve on the bottom. To let the water out after each use. If you don't the water will rust a hole in the tank. When air is compressed the water in the air is forced to drip down the walls of the tank. The instruction booklet stresses that the valve be opened after each use to avoid tank corosion. I do it every time. And Water comes out ! Good advice !
![SahBabii - Viking [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D37cL92JX0I/mqdefault.jpg)
What up! There are links in the description to the BEST air compressor oils. Check them out!
Functionally operates just as it should ruclips.net/user/postUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.
Most the time!
I've been using 30W non-det in my harbor freight compressor for 6 years now and it's working great. I change it once a year. I live in a very dry area.
I use Royal Purple Synfilm which goes for $20 a quart but I recently changed the previous oil. The previous oil went through almost 2 years of hard run in a Rolair wheelbarrow air compressor. It went through Summers and Winters and when it came out it didn't look bad at all and no loss of oil. The compressor runs between 6 to 10 hours a day of cycling.
Good info. I considered using that oil, but in a compressor this size it would take 2 quarts so $40 worth of oil. It sounds like good stuff, especially if you are running it for that many hours every day. The synthetic stuff is NOT cheap that's for sure.
@@MattsShop royal purple makes amaxing oils i use there atf and there motor oil for all my vehicles as well as there gear oil for all my diffs its amazing there synfilm oil is worth every penny
No fuel contamination as in a internal combustion engine? Should last forever.
35 year old Air Mate by Emglo. Nothing but 30w non detergent oil from STP. Still runs like a champ.
Good to know!
You can use these 30 weight in these compressors but standard 30 weight is not for small compressors because they get hot due to rpm of motor and there is a risk the bearing will seize. Rpm is important to select synthetic vs standard. Synthetic have higher Flashpoint and does not gum up.
SAE 30 Non Detergent oil does NOT keep contaminants in suspension. So, debris will sink to the bottom of the sump.
Exactly!
Which is EXACTLY what you want, and why to use it.
I've used Amsoil compressor oil in all of my compressors and pressure washer pumps for 40 years, and they all still run fine!
A simple way to understand is internal combustion engines produce blow back from the combustion/burnt oil/engine wear particles/acids etc. Oil additives deal with these impurities. Air pumps only produce wear particles/moisture, basically. As for lubrication properties, all can benefit from synthetic as its stiction /cling factor is better ie.startup. However a NON synthetic should be used ion break in of engines and pumps as synthetic lube is more efficient and does not allow a proper ring set. But to sum up I use non detergent and change often,usually once a year. Keep good maint. is the key.
Thanks for the intelligent comment. You are 100% right. I like to think that synthetic oil helps protect things a lot better because it is the best, most expensive stuff out there.
You are right though. Maintaining anything is the key to longevity.
okay , my brain hurts now , time to stop reading comments ... apologies to those below
Man, thank you so freakin much for going in depth! I really had no idea one shall not use synthetic oil at first (aka breaking in the motor) due to those factors. I knew that everyone says synthetic should be ran blah blah and is better in the long run blah blah but now that you explained the reasoning for regular oil then switch to synthetic oil for different purposes. WOW THANKS A MILLION
T Herman= explained knowhows lmao. Really tho thanks a million+2 man
@@THETRUTHb4u Some synthetic companies (Amsoil) make a "break in" oil.
I seen some guys put regular detergent motor oil in their air compressor pumps for the last 20-30 years and no issues out of them
Probably doesn't matter that much. I use this thing a lot so I just decided to get the non-detergent oil for safety sake.
Yep, my compressor was only $120. I'm using 10w30. I don't think it's had an oil change in a couple years. It's definitely due, I think I'll use 15w40 this time. (Mostly because I have a ton of it)
@@MattsShop The way it was explained to me over 60 years ago " No filter, No detergent "
In 2001 I bought a Husky 60 gallon compressor. It stated Mobil 1 10w30. I ran that since new. I just had to upgrade but it pumped just as good 21 years later and I worked the shit out of it and kept it in an unheated shed outside. No problems starting below 0. But yeah I get it, but a multi viscosity oil will be better in colder temps
That's a Gardner Denver R15 pump (sold by Champion) and that design has been around for 50+ years. It calls for around 2 quarts of ISO 100 oil which is the same viscosity as SAE30.
You are 100% right. You know your stuff sir!
@@MattsShop I just found your channel, I did a full rebuild and repair on the same Champion compressor about 5 years ago and I'm doing another oil change this weekend. I I just rolled past 1000 hours on it since the rebuild without a flinch, it's a beast.
Yea, these pumps are beasts for sure. I need to change the oil in my compressor too. You can buy washable air filters for these things.
People worry about using synthetic oil. I have news for you. People have been using regular dino oil in their compressors for a hundred years and their compressors last at least 50 years or more on regular 30 wt non detergent.
It's tried and true. Good stuff.
Pour the oil qts upside down from the way you did it, that's how the containers are designed. It wont burp as it pours.
Really? I didn't know that. That's a great tip if it works.
It does work. Been doing it that way for years.
I'll have to try this...
Oldest trick in the book, works on 5 litre containers and jerry cans / fuel containers. All the best
Just pour it sideways. Works a charm
“Non-Detergent Oil” Suspends and Circulates LESS Dirt and Solids Than “Detergent Type Oils” Do in Reciprocating Compressor Pumps and Small Gasoline Engines Causing Less Wear on the Internal Parts by NOT having grit constantly being circulated in them. If you have a pump or small gas engine that has a filter system on it, this doesn't matter as much because the dirt and grit will be captured in the filter stopping it from being re-circulated. You can tell when you disassemble a pump or motor by the parts condition in them and how they look compared to a pump that has had polluted oil constantly circulating the grit and solids. Detergent Oils are used on Pumps and Engines that have a filtration system to remove the suspended grit and dirt from the oil.
Detergent oil will emulsify with water and look milky. Non detergent will separate from moisture and allow the water to sit on top of the oil. Water evaporates easier when it is not trapped in the emulsified detergent oil.
Yea, great points! I also hear it lets the dirt and debris fall out of the oil and rest on the bottom. Instead of staying in the oil waiting for an oil filter to remove it.
@@MattsShop yes especially with metal wear particles. Another thing is detergent oils contain additives that leave ash deposits on valves in the compressor head when the small amount of oil eventually works past the piston rings and vaporizes under the compression stroke. Non detergent oil will not leave any ash deposits on valves or top of pistons.
Good to know!
so he is wrong !
Incorrect. The oil will be on top of the water.
AW oil (for compressors)actually has some anti-wear additives
100 AW = SAE 30 but that is ony for viscosity
Properties are different as applications also differ.
Still.... it's better to have some oil than no oil and SAE 30 surely does the job
I bought the cheaper ingersol rand oil at 31 dollars per quart. I thought maybe I'm in need of a mental evaluation. Hope it's good stuff. I noticed the t 30 Ingersoll is 38 per quart. Made me think I was saving money.
That Ingersoll Rand oil ain't cheap.
I actually use chainsaw bar oil you get for $10 a gallon for my flushes when synthetic is on order. I had the same reasoning though. If the garbage at HF is $7 a quart, running an equivalent for a few days til the good stuff shows up can't be any worse.
I've been using 30wt Non detergent oil in my 10hp power washer pump for 25 years. Works perfectly. Valvoline seems to be the best.
Oh ok you said your pump. You scared me for a second. I thought you ment your motor. Yea, it is good cheap stuff.
So, what's the sight glass for, is oil full level to be in the center or just to the top?
I inherited a 1959 two stage massive compressor and all I see on the air tank is "John Wood Company"
And there is a small metal plate on the pump "model 331 and serial # L424561" no manufacturers name on the pump... but there are casting numbers.
Both tank and pump are that greenish blue Kellogg America color.
Any help identifying it would be helpful.
On my compressor pump the oil usually stays in the middle of the sight glass. Your compressor sounds like it was built to last. You're gonna have to do some digging on that one!
I google every manufacturer's name followed by the model number and two stage pump. Some identical looking pictures come up but there's no name attached to the pics!
1959 is an old compressor and pump. Wish I could post a picture... I'm sure someone could tell me what it is.
I've been using the power mate synthetic oil in all my big compressors for over 10 years now, and not one problem at all, and it's the cheapest.
Is there a local store you buy the powermate oil from, or do you just use amazon?
@@Roadsurfer2k11 Amazon is the only place I've found it.
You can get Non-Detergent oil from Oriley's, some Wal-Marts, and some hardware stores.
We run non detergent oil in our heavy duty winch motors at a refinery DeCoker… why? Because dust and all other kinds of grime and shit get into the pump.. the non detergent oil allows the contaminants to fall out of suspension and collect in the bottom to remove. Hope this helps
The Carmel color of motor oil is dye. Oil is clear.
That oil has been around forever that’s what old cars used for years my 31 model A ford uses it and it makes good chainsaw bar oil too.
Great info thanks. Never thought about using it for bar oil.
Yea, this stuff would suck as bar oil for sure.
I saw a video here on RUclips that says using mineral oil works just fine. I checked further and all the checking came up with the same yes answer. Then on one site they said Johnson Baby Oil is mineral oil. I check several more places on the internet and the same answer, Baby Oil is mineral oil and works just fine in compressors or pneumatic tools. But before you believe me with your investments, check for yourself to make sure. I've been using it and am very happy.
HAHA impressive. You did your homework. I came across all of this too and it's all true. I don't think baby oil is SAE 3O weight though, and it probably smells pretty. It would be good in a pinch lol.
Yes, on the back of my bottle of non detergent 30w from wally world says 100 percent mineral oil. Only 2.97 quart. air comp oil was $8 at tractor supply for small thing. What could be the diff? besides synthetic, or blend. I have an old school heavy duty industrial one so I fig the old school standard oil would be best than to switch to synthetic?
Yea, the "real" compressor oil says it has more additives and stuff that are supposed to help with corrosion. Probably better, but it's up to you.
baby oil at the dollar store is $1.00 a bottle-cheap fix
What cause pressure build up inside oil tank?
Can you use engine oil for cars
Noooo,please dont!
@@MattsShop thank you alot for info
Great Info!!!!
Thanks!!
Thx amigo ❤
👍✌️
That's what the ace brand compressor oil looks like it's clear I didnt know if it was for air compressors because it doesnt specify do you know?
That's where I got this. The store used to be an Ace Hardware. It has to be SAE 30 Non-Detergent oil. It should say on the back that you can use it with air compressors.
@@MattsShop that's the weird thing it doesnt specify the use for it or the viscosity it just says compressor oil. I probably have the wrong oil!
If it says it's for air compressors then you should be good.
The detergent oils will KEEP the water caused by the pumping of the air in suspension which is very bad and why you must only use NON detergent in things where you dont have combustion byproducts. I use ATF in a pinch.
Would bar and chain oil work in an air compressor?
NO! Please don't. That stuff is like maple syrup thick. Air compressor oil is basically motor oil.
HEEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLL NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ..... Stick with the plan stan , 30 weight non detergent and don't get all "overthinking" around here ...... you might as well pour cement in your compressor as 90 weight bar oil !!!!
@@MattsShop thanks
@@shure46 , yeah reminds me of hub oil a bit, I figured it out last month after researching on it a bit.
@@wheresfrankie good to hear .....
Can i use air compressor oil for lubricant on o-rings
Why not?
Can you use at205 reseal along with 30 weight non detergent
Not sure, I've never heard of it. Might want to do some reading!
You're right. That oil is a "lubricating" oil. It doesn't have any of the additives that combustion engine needs. They sell it gas stations because it's cheap too. People will put it in their cars not knowing the difference. I know two people that did it and the engine seized.
Yea, exactly. It just lubricates the pump. That's crazy that you know people who have seized their engine with it. I would never run it in a motor.
It's misleading the way it's labeled and sold.
Yea, it is. It should say "not for use in internal combustion engines" right on the front not the back.
Can you use compressor oil in air tools ?
Idk, I do sometimes.
No, you shouldn't put Air Compressor Oil in Air Tools. You'd be better off putting ATF(Automatic Transmission Fluid) in your Air Tools.
@@mc2whls what about atf oil in an air compressor?
Yes it will work just fine.
@@mc2whls no you should never use compressor oil in air tools atf can be used in air tools
what about air tool oil?
I have rust particles shooting through my shop air. I have 2 filters in line. Any suggestions?
Thank you.
Are you running galvanized or black iron pipe? Are the filters at the end?
I would try adding a gravity trap at the end of the run before the filter and valve it's just a pipe T fitting with a chunk of pipe below it with a end cap. You can plum a ball valve in place of the end cap to let water out also. You can see this on gas furnace installations. Another thing to try is making the trap a larger pipe size than of the size of the airline. It might be too small and not allowing particles to drop out in stream.
I just always use expensive oils because I’m a big believer in the placebo effect 😅
I am too. Peace of mind!
What was the trick?
Non-Detergent SAE 30WT is the same as most compressor oil.
Is it typically cheaper than regular compressor oil?
Yes, but if you can get compressor oil they say they put additives in it to make it better.
@@MattsShop no offense dude, any real mech shop does this, especially if they have industrial gas engine ie gensets , gas compressors, welders...
Good to know!
The detergent will cause it to foam up
Non-Detergent OIL does not FOAM up. That's all there is too it. Single grade viscosity, ISO 100, 30W non-detergent compressor lubricant So Hydraulic OIL ISO 100 = 30W non-detergent oil.
Exactly, you want non-detergent, non-foaming oil for an air compressor. ISO 100 30W oil is compressor oil.
Hey i have a question I thought i would ask here i have a 1ph 220v Campbell hausfiled 60gallon I’m having an issue of it idling down then up and today it basically bogged down and then started no spinning and making i turned it off right away and im not gonna run it until i figure this our my 220v is good i assume cuz i have my frame machine i use it on and has been good and same with my welder so idk i need some help?
Ya this is common knowledge.
I don't think it is.
Where are you getting that oil for $2 a quart? In the Amazon links you posted, that oil costs more than 100% synthetic Powermate oil.
It was cheaper when I posted it. I got it from TrueValue.
Walmart sells a 30W non detergent supertech brand
Only car you can use that oil in is a model T. An engine without an internal oil pump that is splash lubricated
Lol never put this in a car.
Just put Mobil 1 10w30 in it and be done. No need for ND30 oil, manufacturers have been recommending it for at least 15 years. Remember, most compressors get zero love oil wise anyways. Just make sure drain the water out frequently. Synthetic 10w30 oil is fine though. Suspension of debris in oil is a non issue these days. Modern engine oils suspend debris that never get filtered out regardless.
I still prefer to run non-detergent oil in my compressor. When I fist overhauled the compressor there was all kinds of gunk and grit in the oil at the bottom of the crankcase
@@MattsShop admittedly, I have never done any repair service on an engine that uses straight 30 weight. I do imagine there was a reason that they specified it. I have just never had an issue using a multi viscosity oil in anything I've ever owned.
So you told me i didnt know this? I bet good number of people knows this. everybody say use non detergent oil.
I bet a lot more people than you think don't know this. Plus, you get busy and forget this stuff. I know I do.
may be true, if someone does not do any research.. probably
You'd be suprised.
@@Boz1211111 Why on earth do you think they are watching this video? It's called doing research. Think before you post bro.
Add a touch of Old school atf type F ; )
Good idea
You might sound like Tom Bodet from the Motel 6 ads, with maybe a younger tone.
I get some of these references, but I sound nothing like this guy!??
Your being paid sponsoring Master Oil Co. LOL
Fuck it, i'm gonna just try Olive Oil or Cooking Oil in mine! ;)
Great video.....
Haha nahh I wasn't sponsored for $4 worth of oil. I wouldn't reccomend cooking oil lol
@@MattsShop the cooking oil was said in fun! lol
Long ago I had an Emglo compressor that used oil , I ran it for years and years in construction with just that stuff in your video ... "NON DETERGENT OIL" .... I think I used 30 weight .... ALL of those specialty "lawnmower oils" "Compressor oils" are just NON DETERGENT OIL because the high RPM motors will foam like crazy using a detergent oil for cars , Sooooooo they just slap a fancy label and gouge you for a few more bucks .... it's just NON DETERGENT OIL .... Don't get scammed ...... Or if you do pay good money , just get the best quality Non Detergent Oil , but don't bother pissin around with "lawnmower oil" and "compressor oil" .... It's just a fancy gimmick name for non detergent
Yea, it's all just SAE 30 NON-Detergent oil. Basically just pure mineral oil. The really expensive air compressor oil probably has good additives in it to reduce wear though.
@@MattsShop NEVER had a problem with my compressors and I'm in construction , used them often and hard .... the SAE non-detergent has always worked just fine , never a problem .....
I know one thing , I've never seen a motor oil that clear before ..... you sure that ain't Karo Syrup ????
Nahh, it's just basically pure mineral oil...
They might be adding coloring to motor oil in order to meet consumer expectations no joke.
Stop asking stupid questions
@@aeerjordan4994 it was a joke dumbass ..... anyone with half a brain knew it was a joke
Amsoil synthetic is $35 a quart - for you that would be $70 for an oil change..
Yea, it's crazy. The cheap stuff is literally a $4 oil change.
Amsoil isn’t $35 a quart ! You can buy directly from Amsoil as a preferred customer and get it for $14.29 a quart .
The detergents destroy the seals in the pump
No they don’t.
@@oldcountryman2795 that's what you belive
@@AntonioClaudioMichael My compressor manufacture recommends Mobil 1 10w30 Full Synthetic oil. By the way, it's a Campbell Hausfeld compressor.
@@BobChanter how old is that Campbell hausfield compressor?
@@AntonioClaudioMichael 12 years old.
Sulloil is the gold standard for compressors.
Thanks, I'll have to check that out.
That depends on the type of compressor Marlboro Man .
hydraulic oil
Keep your day job. Air compressor theory is not your strength.
Not sure what the trick was.
Cheap oil
You hold the bottle upside down. That’s not a cheap compressor, the difference between good and cheap oil is about $5.
Yea, the better oil is worth it. This thing takes 2 qts of oil. I didn't want to use the good stuff because I was flushing out a bunch of rust and scale from years of condensation. One of the reasons you use non-detergent oil is so that stuff sinks to the bottom.
I'd like to know what all to do to flush out the non detergent sae 30 and change over to full synthetic 10w30 my compressor recommends using Mobil 1 full synthetic if you use it but I've already got regular nondetergent 30 in it.
What compressor do you have? I have never heard of an air compressor manufacturer recommending motor oil like that.
Where in any of your videos do you show how to do anything but clean the valves? What about replacing the bearings or maybe honing the cylinders and installation of new rings . Try to make a video with some real information.
Leave the channel. I'm not tearing apart a perfectly good engine just just to show you how to fix it. You must not have watched one of my 150+ other videos. Try leaving a comment with some real information.
@@MattsShop ohh, I think you got em good... lol
Champion compressors are about as good as you can get
Yup! The BEST piston type air compressors made!
Aren’t champion air compressors cheap Chinese junk with Honda clone engines?
Never mind. Evidently there are two different brands of air compressors named Champion. Lol
Detergent oil ruins seals/bushings in , say an air conditioning electric motor
Yea, the dirt and debris stay suspended in the detergent oil and don't drop out to the bottom of the pump. Non-detergent oil makes the dirt and debris fall out of the oil to the bottom of the pump.
I’ve learned it’s Because they usually have a brass or bronze bushing in the air conditioning motors that are self sealed and they are filled with graphite and non detergent will make graphite swell and it will lock down on the shaft . Do not use : WD-40,
3 n 1 , PB Blaster. Any Car oil is bad .
It looks like cooking oil
I wouldn't reccomend it. Talk about an oil change...
Why go cheap? You could make that compressor last forever. Oh well I guess..thanks for the video cowboy
Just an oil to try this go around.
Matt's Shop, but doesn't know how to pour oil. Interesting.....
Who cares? I got it in the pump didn't I?
@@MattsShop It's best not to engage negative comments on your channel. Just let it go.
Haha it's better not to leave negative comments.
@@TheSeniorTaco Honestly most any direction except the way he did it works pretty well. Bottle sideways, cap toward the top with the bulk of the oil down, personally I've had excellent luck with bottle sideways for both oil and antifreeze. Smooth controlled flow with no clug clug. The bottle is engineer I believe so you pour with the cap toward the top. Personally I've found sideways to work just as well.
What up y’all?
Wow.
What up.
There no such thing as cheap oil any more
This is basically pure mineral oil. It's as cheap as your going to get. They even sell it at Wal-Mart. Look for Supertech SAE 30 Non-detergent. It's like $3.00 a quart.
@@MattsShop yep cheapest i found it to just need it to run all the old oil out thanks
"" NO ONE KNOWS HOW TO DO THIS "" ?? YOU'RE WRONG. I KNOW THIS SINCE LAST YEAR OF FEBRUARY 23RD 2018. YOU'RE TOO LATE BRO. WE KNOW THAT ALREADY.
GUESS YOU ARE NOT AS SMART AS YOU THINK YOU ARE. YOU DIDN'T KNOW BEFORE FEBRUARY 23RD 2018. LOL
Wrong!!...you don't know much about oils
YOU ARE WRONG -----WATER RISES TO THE TOP AND EVAPAORATES, NOT SINK TO BOTTOM AND CORODES THE METAL BOTTOM OF THE COMPESSOR- WRONGO DONGO ! So MUCH MISINFORMATION ON YOU-TUBE !
The air tank has a valve on the bottom. To let the water out after each use. If you don't the water will rust a hole in the tank. When air is compressed the water in the air is forced to drip down the walls of the tank. The instruction booklet stresses that the valve be opened after each use to avoid tank corosion. I do it every time. And Water comes out ! Good advice !