Great, clear, concise video. I appreciate videos like this that don’t drone on and on, turning a five minute explanation into a 30 minute video with tons of irrelevant or repeated content. Thank you for that. Look forward to seeing more of your videos.
Thanks for the support and feedback. Glad the video was helpful! I'll hopefully be uploading more content on this boat as we get into the spring season.
We pre load the new filter with new fuel approx 90% of capacity to lessen the air in the system and to aid the fuel pump longevity. Using a mirror will allow you to visualize the condition of the oil filter assembly. Using a clean bucket will allow you to see any contamination in the fuel.
For a port fuel injected motor like these your system is setup with fuel pressure regulator and a return. The air will push its way out within the first few seconds of running after you start the motor. Nothing you need to do manually.
@@AndyLipsberg yes on your motor you do need to bleed it. Here’s a good video on the D-series fuel filter replacement. ruclips.net/video/NHONjOvjF6M/видео.html
On these fuel injected motors you don't need to prime the filter. Just install and you're good to go. Let it idle for a minute the first time you start it up after the filter change. Other than that you should be all set.
@@rapaent if it’s a return-less fuel system I always prime the fuel filter. If it’s a multiport injected system with a return I never prime the filter (car or boat). Has always worked fine for me
Fuel filters need to be primed first by placing your thumb over the center hole and filling all around in the smaller holes. Oil should be used on the seal which helps in having no friction during installation and helps with with both, sealing and removal. Also all that black crap you're cleaning off of the filter base.... is paint flakes from the paint that VP used on the inside of their fuel pumps. I had to have my fuel pumps thoroughly cleaned along with any paint on the inner walls. In addition, I had to have all my jet's professionally cleaned due to the paint flakes passing thru the fuel rail. East tell s to take a look at your fuel regulator as well. What caused all of this? Regular Gas. It has ethanol which is basically, a paint thinner. It softens the paint giving you this problem. Don't take my word for it..... Check around the internet, you'll see many, many forums regarding this and some YT videos.
@@geowhjr That's correct. On non-fuel injected motors. Or even on motors that have throttle body injection (aka electronic carburetors). Those motors all require priming of the fuel filter or else you run into problems. Same with Diesel motors, but the priming process is slightly different on those. For more modern motors with port fuel injection (1 injector per cylinder), they have a high pressure fuel system with a return, and they will purge the air and don't really require priming of the fuel filter.
No bleeding necessary if you are on an MPI motor with a return on the fuel rail. Bleeding g and priming is only necessary if you have an EFI or carbureted engine.
Great, clear, concise video. I appreciate videos like this that don’t drone on and on, turning a five minute explanation into a 30 minute video with tons of irrelevant or repeated content. Thank you for that. Look forward to seeing more of your videos.
Thanks for the support and feedback. Glad the video was helpful! I'll hopefully be uploading more content on this boat as we get into the spring season.
We pre load the new filter with new fuel approx 90% of capacity to lessen the air in the system and to aid the fuel pump longevity.
Using a mirror will allow you to visualize the condition of the oil filter assembly.
Using a clean bucket will allow you to see any contamination in the fuel.
Great tips! Will definitely take those into account next time I do the fuel/water separator filter. 👍
I use the selfie camera on my phone instead of a mirror
@@meatballs2849 That's a great tip!
Thanks - nice and easy
Yup. Really simple maintenance to keep things running well
what the heck is a "matting surface"? I think you mean "mating surface" ie: where the filter "mates" to the housing.
You are totally right! My mouth sometimes doesn’t cooperate with my brain :-)
How do you get out the air? Pump manually with regular filter bleed screw?
For a port fuel injected motor like these your system is setup with fuel pressure regulator and a return. The air will push its way out within the first few seconds of running after you start the motor. Nothing you need to do manually.
@@NKPGarage i have volvo penta d1-20, I will need to bleed on the next filter I believe :)
@@AndyLipsberg yes on your motor you do need to bleed it. Here’s a good video on the D-series fuel filter replacement. ruclips.net/video/NHONjOvjF6M/видео.html
I use it on my car
Oh. That’s cool. What kind of car?
@@NKPGarage diesel qd32eti Elgrand, bought a filter with the housing & retro fitted it lol
@righthand7965 that’s awesome!!
how do you prime the fuel filter before use?
On these fuel injected motors you don't need to prime the filter. Just install and you're good to go. Let it idle for a minute the first time you start it up after the filter change. Other than that you should be all set.
@@NKPGarage Yes you do!!
@@rapaent if it’s a return-less fuel system I always prime the fuel filter. If it’s a multiport injected system with a return I never prime the filter (car or boat). Has always worked fine for me
Fuel filters need to be primed first by placing your thumb over the center hole and filling all around in the smaller holes. Oil should be used on the seal which helps in having no friction during installation and helps with with both, sealing and removal. Also all that black crap you're cleaning off of the filter base.... is paint flakes from the paint that VP used on the inside of their fuel pumps. I had to have my fuel pumps thoroughly cleaned along with any paint on the inner walls. In addition, I had to have all my jet's professionally cleaned due to the paint flakes passing thru the fuel rail. East tell s to take a look at your fuel regulator as well. What caused all of this? Regular Gas. It has ethanol which is basically, a paint thinner. It softens the paint giving you this problem. Don't take my word for it..... Check around the internet, you'll see many, many forums regarding this and some YT videos.
Great advice!
@@NKPGarage 👍😊
Have to agree with this comment. Not priming caused a no start situation I needed help resolving.
Non fuel injected engine.
@@geowhjr That's correct. On non-fuel injected motors. Or even on motors that have throttle body injection (aka electronic carburetors). Those motors all require priming of the fuel filter or else you run into problems. Same with Diesel motors, but the priming process is slightly different on those. For more modern motors with port fuel injection (1 injector per cylinder), they have a high pressure fuel system with a return, and they will purge the air and don't really require priming of the fuel filter.
Gotta ask ... are you Left-Handed ? Just a thought, on my engines, i store several drops of oil on the end of the dipstick, for just this purpose
Hehehe. Good point !
I get it...but OVERKILL 4sure🤦♂️🙈
😀
No reference to bleeding fuel and air. Shame..
No bleeding necessary if you are on an MPI motor with a return on the fuel rail. Bleeding g and priming is only necessary if you have an EFI or carbureted engine.