The Profane Pilgrimage: Camino Diaries #35
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- Опубликовано: 6 июн 2024
- some thoughts on the form ofa rough essay on a topic that is somewhat controversial: the ‘pilgrimage tourists’.
Many can’t walk the entire Camino, and it’s perfectly fine to do the shorter one from Sarria.
But buses disgorging throngs of tourists going on a stroll, collecting pilgrim stamps, only to later be able to say: “I walked the Camino”?
I’m not so sure…
but listen to my thoughts, agree or not.
So come walk along with me…
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shot and edited by the flesh of my teeth on iPhone 15 Pro Max (the "Everything Machine"), shot in Apple LOG x265, video Editing in LumaFusion, audio editing in Hokusai, Comica wireless microphones , external audio recorder Roland DR-07 🥰, writing in the great Drafts app.
Wow, what a powerful commentary on modern society, commodification, tourism and (pointless) stamp collecting. I will have to rewatch this video as it is too much to take in in one viewing. Powerful. The audio soundtrack over the shot of the river is genius. Wow. So much to reflect on.
thank you for your positive reaction! It’s a controversial topic, but I can’t NOT say anything… - and anyways, it shouldn’t even be ‘controversial’, if we’re being honest.
Great comments. I have done long and short routes on the Camino. Last year after six weeks carrying all my gear, with plenty of sore body parts collected along the way, I arrived at Sarria for the first time.
In the weeks leading up to Sarria there were many conversations about what it would be like with the crowds, what we would do to avoid 'them' etc.
In the end, my mind shifted in Sarria, and instead I witnessed people excited on their first day on their Camino, snapping photos with great enthusiasm, racing up the road, and fondly remembered my ‘firsts’. I encountered people having a wide variety of experiences just like I had seen on earlier parts of the route. I do not know who will return to experience longer routes or what they got from their experience. As in life everyone is on their own journey. I know what I want from my Camino, and it does not disappoint.
It was still possible to do and experience what I wanted from my Camino on that stage. On the day leading into Santiago, I fell asleep at a Café and when I woke the crowds were gone and I walked on empty roads, the last 10k, the Camino yet again provided what I wanted for me.
Buen Camino
great way to look at it, thank you 😀 - yes it’s a conflicted situation…
Beautiful display of the bonds that bind us together sharing the common goal. Your subject matter is controversial only because people have mistaken their opinions with "being right". Opinions are neither right or wrong, they are simply a point of view. This particular camino, the Frances, is an "all for one...one for all" camino. Everyone's experience of it matters to them, as it should. Great video Gerrit, you are a brave man indeed ;).
From Sarria onwards I did find cycling impossible whenever the cycle route merged with the Camino hiking path. I did find it rather annoying, to say the least. No one stepped aside, they were all over the place … me … me … me seemed to be their attitude.
But then, what the heck. By then I already had the privilege of having had some 2,400 km Camino more or less to myself (with few exceptions). I had my time … and finally did find it again on top of Monte Facho in Finisterre.
During a former walking Camino I met an older woman from Austria. She was part of an organized bus trip … because she did not dare to just walk out there alone. She was scared and opted for a group. She had asked me a lot of questions as we walked a bit side by side. And when I left her, she said that at some point she might do it solo, too.
Another time I bumped into a three-generation family loudly chattering away. Again, at first I thought, oh god, why? Why are they obstructing MY path. The noise! But they turned out to be lovely people.
Anyway, Gerrit, I understand your feelings to the „tourist“ pilgrims. I was not happy with them last time either, especially as I had to cycle a long and strenuous unplanned detour. But, in the end, they, the „tourist“ pilgrims probably just want the same as we do, just don‘t know yet how to, or have the means (time, money, trust, ability, whatever).
Anyway, thanks for addressing this topic, too, and brilliantly done with your voice over those beautiful images. 😊
thank you for your perfect words, Kater… nothing much to add! 💯
Thank you for the wonderful video and your commentary. My wife and I finished the Camino Francis on May 31st and I experienced all of the same feelings and thoughts you so eloquently voiced in this video upon reaching Sarria. We are fortunate that we had the ability and resources to walk the entire Francis but also feel that the last 100km is not reflective of the joy, pain and reflection of the much longer pilgrimage. While we recognize walking the entire journey is not possible for everyone, I appreciate your important distinction between the blind couple and the tourist element. We tried to avoid the crowds as much as possible by also going off stage which worked out reasonably well for us. The Camino is such a unique and cherished experience there is great risk to diluting this wonderful journey of the body mind and soul to a simplistic tourist event with throngs of buses and stamp gathering masses. Thank you again for appropriately trying to articulate this very sensitive topic!
…it’s (for some odd reason) a sensitive topic - i’m glad i hit a nerve! your feedback is much appreciated.
Thank you for the video! I completely understand the shock and frustration when a "real" pilgrim (walking from the very beginning) sees the post-Sarria crowds. I find myself judging them as well, but then I remind myself that I am actually ultra-privileged as I can afford walking the entire Camino, because I have enough money, health and vacations at work to do it. Most people don't. For most people, Sarria is the best they can ever do. So my feelings are conflicted: on one side I am annoyed by the crows, but on the other side I feel bad about myself when I catch myself being annoyed at the people who can only afford Sarria. I guess it's going to be another one of those Camino lessons for you: overcoming these feelings and accepting the reality as it is. Good luck!
agreed - and like I said, i totally applaud people who do the short one, for whatever reason. what I do not understand is the buses taking tourists from one spot to the next and have them walk for a few kilometers while transporting their luggage. That’s tourism.
@@storiestellr Busegrinos.
I have walked five caminos, and met true pilgrims walking from Sarria, and some long distance walkers all the way from SJPDP. It’s all about getting to a sacred place and reflecting on your own personal way. It’s about the destination.
It's about the journey.
Well said Gerrit! Sadly this over commercialisation of many scared sites around the world seems to diminish the experience for those who truely wish to engage with an ancient way and be immersed in the richness and history that now has been eroded by the bucket list generation.
it’s a disgrace… tourism never fails to destroy the very thing it professes to celebrate. 😞
💯I am so glad i started my travels in the mid 80’s. In Europe hardly any English was spoken. My sad attempts at French laughed at. Discovering wonderful new food. Each country had a unique currency and rich history. No catering to Tourists. The curiosity of each other’s cultures. Just tootling around in a kombi van being amazed and grateful and humbled
Absolutely wonderful! Thank you for this video, and telling the truth. The zoo that is the Francés from Sarria (and in one or two other places) is the reason why I fear I will never walk this lovely route. I completed the Inglés and then on to Finistera, and absolutely loved every second. Next time, the Primitivo or Invierno, but no way this Disney Camino.
Thx for posting, it was reminder of my thoughts on reaching Sarria last year... Well not so much Sarria, rather Portomarin, fortunately i had a small private room that night and broke down and sobbed for an hour or so. I think a few things contributed to that, but the main trigger was the sheer volume of people on the trail. Like you I don't want to be a Camino snob but .... with the exceptions you mention, they shouldn't really be there, it's not a bucket list trip, it's a pilgrimage!!
I enjoy your musings on the Camino and you capture a lot of the feelings, both good and not so good that I've experienced.. Keep them coming and I hope the final few days give you what you need🙏.
hi Steven, thank you - much appreciated!
Well said Gerrit. Totally agree with you. 🙏
thank you Hannah 😅
Hi Gerrit! I completely agree with you when it comes to tourists and their demands and behavior along the way. Every pilgrim who has walked over 700 km before has a strong mental reaction when he encounters the light people walking without backpacks and carrying always cell phones in their hands.🤣 And the buses. And with that I put my own experience and feelings into words, and that is my evaluation of things. Ur right and have the right to say it. Nobody has no oppinion. 😵Your insights are experiences that strengthen you. Good luck until the Atlantic coast.🍀
By the way: i'm behind u from St. Jean Pied de Port the Frances at Thursday 13.06. 😇 I'm following in your footsteps... And hopefully I will meet my inner child again on the way ( most in the Meseta) 🥰
thanks Sia! so you’ll be starting very soon! it’ll be a great adventure… buen camino! ☀️ !
Thanks!
thank you so much Patricia! i’ll spend it on the next breakfast 🥐 ☕️😜
I have like the alternate route that you were taken and wished I was brave enough to do that when I get there in September
I have a question, I will be traveling in September on the Camino, and a lot of people are recommending Gore-Tex walk-in shoes rather than traditional running shoes. What’s your opinion? Also, I have enjoyed all your videos. Please keep them coming. They are encouraging.
0:28 ❤
Mensch, Gerrit, ärger dich nicht!
Wenn I asked Rob (from 'Robscamino') if it would be a good idea for me (first timer) to switch in Ponferrada onto the Camino Invierno instead of staying on the Frances to avoid the Sarria crowds, he quite rightly advised me not to do that on my first Camino. You would have to leave your 'Camino family' and the 'Frances', even though crowded at times, is the famous one. The one walked and described by Coelho, Hemingway, Maclaine, Kerkeling, Sheen,...and so on.
After having seen your video, my first reaction was : Gerrit is 'ripe' for the 'Invierno'.
On RUclips and internet Camino-Fora you can see how Camino lovers get hooked first by the 'Frances', but then start doing other Camino's and in the end even experiment by combining different Camino's. And I'm sure, if you want to keep doing this from time to time, this will eventually be also your destiny. The numbers between Sarria and Santiago will not go down soon anymore.
I find it even amazing how many people prefer to go on a pilgrimage for a week instead of putting their butt in the sand on Mallorca or Ibiza. Even though most people don't go to church anymore, there is obviously a big craving for doing something with a bit more (spiritual) content and, if possible, with others, many others, who share the same interest.
I do understand your frustration but there is probably nothing much you can do about it. And then it leaves you with the famous rule:
Love it, change it or leave it.
good points all… thanks! yes i want to explore others, too - LePuy in particular.
The number of pilgrims is rising exponentially. It will get worse. But there is also an opportunity : the more pilgrims walkabout, the more people like Knut get the chance to make their hostel financially sustainable. Every up has its down, but every down has always also its up!
I thank you for accepting my comment. Please keep posting your videos.
Awww. You've made me really sad.
it’s over for a few days, and even those can be largely avoided, but…
What a pompous attitude.
I am 75 and recently just returned from the Camino Fonseca.
On the 19th of August I will be walking the Frances again starting from SJPD.
My first Frances was in 2007 when I started from Poitiers.
I thought I was walking a long distance until near Hontanas I came across a young woman who had walked to Santiago from home and was now returning home....to Paris.
I recount this to point out that there is no correct way of walking the Camino including start point.
We all do it our own way.
In August it will be my twelfth Camino and each time has been different.
You started in SJPD because you think that is the way to do it.
I guess that you don't even know why the Camino Frances is called the Frances....no it's not because it "starts" in Jean Pied de Port.
I suggest that you stop being judgemental about others motives and enjoy the whole experience as it is.
enjoy the crowds of bussed-in tourists, buddy
if you don't like tourists why walk to Santiago.
There are plenty of other destinations. buddy.
I have like the alternate route that you were taken and wished I was brave enough to do that when I get there in September
you will be
I have a question, I will be traveling in September on the Camino, and a lot of people are recommending Gore-Tex walk-in shoes rather than traditional running shoes. What’s your opinion? Also, I have enjoyed all your videos. Please keep them coming. They are encouraging.
thank you! I highly recommend trail runners by Hoka or similar. They’re light on your feet, ultra comfortable, and they breathe. Gore-Tex has the problem of keeping water out, but once it’s in, it’s hard to dry them. Mesh sneakers dry in a jiffy.
Mesh Sneakers like Asics or Hoka or... without goretex with a fiiitting (!) tooth_Box. Because of rain you can try 'gamaschen', rain-suits for the feet (-bike utensils p.ex.)