Excellent work Crispin, nice to see a craftsman "hand finishing" work and not just machining and assembling, gives us all an idea of the incredible amount of work involved in such a project. Excellent video, you have a very natural way of explaining your actions and your enthusiasm for this work comes across very well, I think later on you should consider a career in Teaching as you're a "natural', as a retired College Lecturer I think I know a good Teacher when I see one, well done, Laurie
When I was first watching the video, thought to myself I had never see a non-through rivet! Then further on, you explained how you through drilled, countersunk, and filed them off! I was amazed, you couldn't see then from backside after you were done filing them!! Excellent work!!! Great video!!
It's great seeing all the parts come together. Excellent work - looking forward to part 2. I hope Keith Fenner is following your videos - you are proving over and over again that you were the worthy winner of the toolbox giveaway. PS. The super glue method for temporary part holding is brilliant.
Thank you ...nice work...I also appreciate that you showed the broken tap....I am a machinist in California and enjoyed hearing the rain...( too dry here)...On my important parts, when I break a tap, I use a hand ground spade bit, solid carbide (micro 100) at low rpm using heavy cutting oil, lock the quill and slowly bring the knee up until I cut through the broken tap...I very much appreciate your presentations....Jeff
That is coming out beautiful! You do excellent work! I also like how you handled the broken tap. Detailed videos on how to handle setbacks like a broken tap are really helpful.
I really like watching how the rivets are done and have nice the finish is after you filed it smooth ..That was a Great fix for the hole the tap broke in
Great work Mr Crispin. I've been following your vidios for quite some time now. It seems like I always learn a little something from wathching your videos. The super glue method for temporary part holding is brilliant, something I would never have thought of. I look forward to your future videos!
Fantastic work Mr Crispin! You are inspiring me to get some work done on my own loco chassis. Keep the great videos coming, I'll be following the whole way.
Finding you videos very interesting as I am in the process of building a Springbok, when time allows.On the axleboxes, is there a particular reason you have put the small plates at the top of the springs, my drawings show them at the bottom.Hope you keep the videos coming through to completion. Nice work.
Hi Crispin, You'll soon be at the assembled chassis stage! Of course, that's the point at which so many of theses builds get abandoned and eventually sold, but I don't expect that's what will happen with yours. Keep up the good work. The video quality is just right (1080p is great if you have the upload bandwidth!).
Great Video Crispin. Superb workmanship. I have some friends building a B1 & they need to see your videos, I will direct it to them. Many thanks. Monday is Bank Holiday so I will post the items to you on Tuesday.
when I was in high school (age 14-15), we had a metal shop class that was no way as good as your apprenticeship. A briliant video! btw, did you learn of the RR engine problem with a Quantas A380? It seems a oil tube pipe was drilled which made a side of the pipe narrow....RR new of the problem and would replace that bit when they did the maintenance...unfortunately, this particular engine was one of the first to be installed..that video is here at YT...very interesting. cheers, chuck
Brilliant series of videos, very well presented. Cant wait to see the next instalment. Out of interest , what loco are you building? Obviously a 4-6-0. I have several bits for a 5" Torquay Manor. Your vids have given me the umph to get cracking with it. Keep up the good work.
Fantastic work, videography, editing, and narration; thanks for sharing, Mr. Crispin! If you get a chance, could you tell me where you get the rivets? Are they actually soft iron? It seems that all that is available in the U.S. are mild-steel rivets. --Bruce.
wbmphd I buy them from a Model engineering supplier, they arn't very cheap. Mild steel rivets are hard work! Perhaps you could make a little set of punches to make soft iron rivets?
I saw your video of 18 Nov 2014 when you talked about the rivet snap the first time but I would like to know the shape on the inside of the smaller hole in the snap that is used to set the rivet before you peen it. Does it change the shape of the end of the rivet? Thanks! Daniel
Do not waste your money buying Soft Jaws for your bench vice. Get yourself two pieces of good quality ally angle say 1.5 inch X 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick. I feel sure RR has some in their stores or scrap bin. If not another good material is Copper. Get a bit of 10 swg ( 3 mm ) and bend yourself a couple of angled bits. To stop them keep falling off the vice, either use a bit of Blue Tack or Araldite a bit of magnet to the ally or copper to "stick it to the steel body. Of course it will have to be outside the clamping area. Another good method which we used at Philips was to drill a clearance hole for 4 BA in the centre of the jaw holding countersunk screws. Then countersink, drill and tap 4 BA, two holes in each soft jaw at the same centers as your vice jaw screws, attach 4 BA Countersunk screws to your soft jaws. You were then able to open and close the vice, bang around on the vice and the jaws would still remain in place. You could also use some hardwood with nails in place of the screws. Excellent job you are making. I made a 3 & 1/2 inch Caribou took me 3 Years. Gradual at the start a few hours here and there, at the end it was every minute of the day I could find. Worth the effort, gave much joy to children having a ride on the track in our local park.
Did you machine the inside corner of the larger angle to make it square? i. e. to get rid of the radius? Are you able to purchase plans/drawings for the locomotive?
No I don't think I machined the inside but I can't actually remember! I probably filled a radius on the corner of the angle so that it fitted in properly.
Just wondering what factors you consider when when choosing between soldering, screwing or riveting parts together? And is it as much about engineering expediency as aesthetics?
+Obvious Schism In some cases it is specified by te drawing, in others the application is the decider and other times any will work. Silver soldering is very strong, it can also provide a gas and liquid tight seal. However everything has to get hot and inevitably covered in black scale. With bigger workpieces distorton becomes an issue, as does being able to heat it hot enough. Heating some metals up also can effect thier temper or hardness. Riveting is strong and quick alothough in small scale its diccicult to achine any kind of a seal. You also need about 3 hands on larger jobs. Rivets can be drilled out but they tend to be put in with a mind set of leaving them there. Screws are versetile, on my chassis for instance you can put them in areas that are diffcult to rivet in. Also you dont have to balance or hit the work piece as with riveting. The main down side as I see it is having to tap all the holes, which can be very time consuming, perticularly if they are small.
Ok thanks for that very comprehensive answer. So its a matter of taking each case as you find it and then using the most appropriate method for that particular situation. I'm looking forward to more videos in this series and particularly these types of explanations of the reasoning behind engineering decisions..
+Obvious Schism Yes thats about right. One other factor is the consequence of what ever joining method going wrong, For example you might think, would i rather risk breaking a tap, missing the rivet and marring the work, or distort/upset components due to heat.
They say for a dome head you cut rivet longer than the thickness of the workpiece by 1.5x the rivet diameter. So for a countersink I cut the rivet 1.5x D again and then make the countersink deep enough to suit.
Evening Mr Crispin 🤠 Love that you showed the repair after the tap got stuck 👍🏻 Excellent stuff 😃
All that effort into a detail that won't be seen outwardly, to me the look of a well formed round head rivet is so appealing.
Excellent recovery with the broken tap. The build is coming along nicely. Thanks.
Darren Martin Thank you
Excellent work Crispin, nice to see a craftsman "hand finishing" work and not just machining and assembling, gives us all an idea of the incredible amount of work involved in such a project. Excellent video, you have a very natural way of explaining your actions and your enthusiasm for this work comes across very well, I think later on you should consider a career in Teaching as you're a "natural', as a retired College Lecturer I think I know a good Teacher when I see one, well done, Laurie
Bayhunter2011 Thank you very much, all these comments encourage me to make more videos!
Beautiful work on hammering the rivets and filing them to make them 'disappear'!👍👍👍
When I was an apprentice one of my recommended books was Jig and fixture practice. VERY informative.
Thanks for the riveting example and discussion. What a great save for the broken tap. You taught this tyro much. Thank you for sharing.
Joe
Most excellent video MrCrispin...! Your draw filing looks exquisite.... Please continue.
***** Thank you very much
When I was first watching the video, thought to myself I had never see a non-through rivet! Then further on, you explained how you through drilled, countersunk, and filed them off! I was amazed, you couldn't see then from backside after you were done filing them!! Excellent work!!!
Great video!!
Fred Newman Thanks, thats a compliment!
MrCrispin Great work, a fascinating series. I like your style of presentation where you explain how and why
Nicely done, I can appreciate the fine hand work and the reasoning behind every move... You're crafting more than machining, a lost art...
Fantastic to see such quality work. Great to see that craftsmanship still exists. Thank you for making these videos.
It's great seeing all the parts come together.
Excellent work - looking forward to part 2.
I hope Keith Fenner is following your videos - you are proving over and over again that you were the worthy winner of the toolbox giveaway.
PS. The super glue method for temporary part holding is brilliant.
kempy666999 Thank you very much, I am pleased to be able to show the use of the tools as I promised.
Exceptional work, your filing techniques and file selection would surely make an excellent future video!
looking forward to the next part!
Thank you ...nice work...I also appreciate that you showed the broken tap....I am a machinist in California and enjoyed hearing the rain...( too dry here)...On my important parts, when I break a tap, I use a hand ground spade bit, solid carbide (micro 100) at low rpm using heavy cutting oil, lock the quill and slowly bring the knee up until I cut through the broken tap...I very much appreciate your presentations....Jeff
That is coming out beautiful! You do excellent work! I also like how you handled the broken tap. Detailed videos on how to handle setbacks like a broken tap are really helpful.
shadowdog500 Thank you very much
Nice to see such a young craftsman at work.
The rivets disappearing kind of blew my mind, epic stuff , best wishes from sunny Cambs.
Wonderful video, thanks. A pleasure to watch. I applaud your patients and look forward to part 2 and beyond.
Duncan Mac Thank you very much
looking good, Nice to see riveting being done I haven't done or seen any since my days at apprentice training school, long long time ago.
I really like watching how the rivets are done and have nice the finish is after you filed it smooth ..That was a Great fix for the hole the tap broke in
not2fast4u2c Thanks
Wow you have patients! Great work!
Great work Mr Crispin. I've been following your vidios for quite some time now. It seems like I always learn a little something from wathching your videos. The super glue method for temporary part holding is brilliant, something I would never have thought of. I look forward to your future videos!
Fantastic work Mr Crispin! You are inspiring me to get some work done on my own loco chassis. Keep the great videos coming, I'll be following the whole way.
a real pleasure to watch I'm at a similar stage building a 5" gauge speedy so I'm going to be copying all your tips thanks for sharing
david sanderson Please feel free. Its good to know my videos might help in some way. Its why I make them ultimately, to show how I do things.
Hi from Canada. Excellent job! Keep up the great videos!
Finding you videos very interesting as I am in the process of building a Springbok, when time allows.On the axleboxes, is there a particular reason you have put the small plates at the top of the springs, my drawings show them at the bottom.Hope you keep the videos coming through to completion. Nice work.
Very nice work Crispin, and excellent recovery with the broken tap :)
Steve McQuillin Thank you
Excellent work,and very enjoyable to watch. I am slightly surprised to see you use metric fasteners,but I’m sure you have your valid reasons!👌
There are few people that equal your craftsmanship. You are a true master of iron working Thank You
Stephen Reeves Thank you very much, that's a great compliment
Another interesting and informative video. Thank you.
Looking forward to part 2!
Josh Wedgwood Should be out soon seeing as we have monday and tuesday off!
Hi Crispin,
You'll soon be at the assembled chassis stage!
Of course, that's the point at which so many of theses builds get abandoned and eventually sold, but I don't expect that's what will happen with yours. Keep up the good work.
The video quality is just right (1080p is great if you have the upload bandwidth!).
Excellent. Simply excellent.
68sweetnovember Thank you
and again I see another image of yours in a images of springbok locos..neat :)
Great Video Crispin. Superb workmanship. I have some friends building a B1 & they need to see your videos, I will direct it to them. Many thanks. Monday is Bank Holiday so I will post the items to you on Tuesday.
Excellent work! Your parts look great! I think you could use a face mill to do most of the work in taking the rivets down to the surface of the plate.
Herb Blair Thanks, Yes a face mill would probably be sensible. Although soft iron doesn't take much filing.
when I was in high school (age 14-15), we had a metal shop class that was no way as good as your apprenticeship. A briliant video! btw, did you learn of the RR engine problem with a Quantas A380? It seems a oil tube pipe was drilled which made a side of the pipe narrow....RR new of the problem and would replace that bit when they did the maintenance...unfortunately, this particular engine was one of the first to be installed..that video is here at YT...very interesting. cheers, chuck
Very nice video. I really like the sound of rain on the roof, you should try to include it more often! ;)
JTZshokunin Thanks, if only it rained here more often in England!
Brilliant series of videos, very well presented. Cant wait to see the next instalment. Out of interest , what loco are you building? Obviously a 4-6-0. I have several bits for a 5" Torquay Manor. Your vids have given me the umph to get cracking with it. Keep up the good work.
MrCrispin, Excellent!!!
Fine work.
Carter W Hern Thanks
Fantastic work, videography, editing, and narration; thanks for sharing, Mr. Crispin! If you get a chance, could you tell me where you get the rivets? Are they actually soft iron? It seems that all that is available in the U.S. are mild-steel rivets.
--Bruce.
wbmphd I buy them from a Model engineering supplier, they arn't very cheap. Mild steel rivets are hard work! Perhaps you could make a little set of punches to make soft iron rivets?
I saw your video of 18 Nov 2014 when you talked about the rivet snap the first time but I would like to know the shape on the inside of the smaller hole in the snap that is used to set the rivet before you peen it. Does it change the shape of the end of the rivet? Thanks! Daniel
Do not waste your money buying Soft Jaws for your bench vice. Get yourself two pieces of good quality ally angle say 1.5 inch X 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick. I feel sure RR has some in their stores or scrap bin. If not another good material is Copper. Get a bit of 10 swg ( 3 mm ) and bend yourself a couple of angled bits. To stop them keep falling off the vice, either use a bit of Blue Tack or Araldite a bit of magnet to the ally or copper to "stick it to the steel body. Of course it will have to be outside the clamping area. Another good method which we used at Philips was to drill a clearance hole for 4 BA in the centre of the jaw holding countersunk screws. Then countersink, drill and tap 4 BA, two holes in each soft jaw at the same centers as your vice jaw screws, attach 4 BA Countersunk screws to your soft jaws. You were then able to open and close the vice, bang around on the vice and the jaws would still remain in place. You could also use some hardwood with nails in place of the screws.
Excellent job you are making. I made a 3 & 1/2 inch Caribou took me 3 Years. Gradual at the start a few hours here and there, at the end it was every minute of the day I could find. Worth the effort, gave much joy to children having a ride on the track in our local park.
Dave Ticehurst Good tip thanks, I may do that. Although I quite like the clip on ones that are made of a non metal.
Really great video!!! Thanks!!
Very strange, when I started listening I thought you were an old man, and was surprised when you showed yourself.
Did you machine the inside corner of the larger angle to make it square? i. e. to get rid of the radius?
Are you able to purchase plans/drawings for the locomotive?
No I don't think I machined the inside but I can't actually remember! I probably filled a radius on the corner of the angle so that it fitted in properly.
You can get the drawings from AJ Reeves website
Good quality files must make a difference, I'm sure. Nice work.
+David Dale They certainly make it quicker. Mine are a mixture of Bacho and Nicholson. Both are very good.
Real Good job
You milled the ends of the angles, why not mill the tops of the rivets, at least to get most of the metal off?
Good video
pancho villa Thank you
Just wondering what factors you consider when when choosing between soldering, screwing or riveting parts together? And is it as much about engineering expediency as aesthetics?
+Obvious Schism In some cases it is specified by te drawing, in others the application is the decider and other times any will work. Silver soldering is very strong, it can also provide a gas and liquid tight seal. However everything has to get hot and inevitably covered in black scale. With bigger workpieces distorton becomes an issue, as does being able to heat it hot enough. Heating some metals up also can effect thier temper or hardness.
Riveting is strong and quick alothough in small scale its diccicult to achine any kind of a seal. You also need about 3 hands on larger jobs. Rivets can be drilled out but they tend to be put in with a mind set of leaving them there.
Screws are versetile, on my chassis for instance you can put them in areas that are diffcult to rivet in. Also you dont have to balance or hit the work piece as with riveting. The main down side as I see it is having to tap all the holes, which can be very time consuming, perticularly if they are small.
Ok thanks for that very comprehensive answer. So its a matter of taking each case as you find it and then using the most appropriate method for that particular situation. I'm looking forward to more videos in this series and particularly these types of explanations of the reasoning behind engineering decisions..
+Obvious Schism Yes thats about right. One other factor is the consequence of what ever joining method going wrong, For example you might think, would i rather risk breaking a tap, missing the rivet and marring the work, or distort/upset components due to heat.
enjoyed, thanks! Keep it up.
Is there a formula for size/depth of the countersink for the rivets?
There probably is but I normally do a test piece to check everything out before I start
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Yeah that makes perfect sense. Thks for the quick reply!
They say for a dome head you cut rivet longer than the thickness of the workpiece by 1.5x the rivet diameter. So for a countersink I cut the rivet 1.5x D again and then make the countersink deep enough to suit.
Has anyone ever been tempted to do this riveting with red hot rivets?