Jason, this is one ugly job and yet you videoed and voiced over the video perfectly. I hope you have not gotten injured or injure yourself. This kind of heavy work I'm not experienced with, but I would like to bring up a few ideas. Why did the engine overheat? Please consider testing both EGR coolers now that they are off the engine. Use all new EGR cooler clamps. Replace the thermostat. Are the head bolts torque to yield? If so, order new ones. Do the injectors need to be rebuilt? Finally, I liked how you called the Charged Air Cooler a Charged Air Cooler and not Intercooler. I still remember making that verbal mistake during Cummings school. Please don't get injured. Take care.
I got away almost unscathed. I cut my knuckle on a hose clamp pretty good. Using these trucks to plow snow at slow speeds and high loads does get them pretty hot. I don’t think it got over 210* though. I did get new head bolts, they are torque to yield. The parts Dept schooled me on the difference between the charge air cooler and an intercooler, it’s good to know when some of the trucks have both. I noticed everything is an intercooler on Internet forum sites though.
Hey, I hope this reaches you im experiencing the same issue They are saying that cylinder 2 and cylinder 3 I have an issue they put dye in the engine and notice diesel in the oil so basically they are saying that I would either have to have an overhaul or rebuild or just get a hold entire engine altogether but they will have to see if there's a crack in the head because after the pressure test That's what they had notice about the diesel being mixed in with the oil cylinder 2/3 and six are all bad
So I’m about to pull a Cummins engine out of a bus. Might time lapse it like this. What is the cost of a replacement cylinder head? That’s gotta be a chunk of change.
I’d watch your video if you do. The time lapse was the only way I could think to record it, because it takes so long and I like to include the whole process. I figured I’d try a voice over on it and see how it goes. It was 3800 for the head and 500 for the head gasket kit with bolts. There was other seals and gaskets that weren’t included I got so it ran around 5k. I changed the pucks and icp sensor too.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic I guess you gotta pay to play with the big boys. Our 6.7l ISB was $24000 including a $5000 core because it has a big hole in the block. Ouch. Had an oil pressure sending unit snap off while driving….. it smoked a lot then went boom. That’s all she wrote! Hopefully you’ll see it here on “the RUclips” soon.
Its mint dude. Just like the hydraflare mastercool kit one of those time savers. Im on a maxx dt that dropped a valve seat into cyl 1 this week. Customer wanted to pull the cooling pack next time im saving myself the time. Great video. Are you in New England?
I actually just ordered a lisle 40100 hub puller I’m interested in trying. Im hoping it might retire my hammer for removing my Chevy and dodge hubs. I saw a short for it and had to get it. Yes I’m in New England.
So how much time did you have been just taking all this stuff from around the head and how much does the head way and would it be possible for two people to remove it? would that present a challenge?
It took me about 5-6 hours to remove everything and get the head out. To clean everything up and put it back together took me probably around 10-12 hours. It was about 3 work days to do it all. I’m sure it could be done faster depending on the condition of the parts to begin with. This was a salt truck so some of the parts didn’t want to cooperate. Two people can lift the head, it’s not super heavy a (100-200lbs). The hard part is getting it back in without damaging the mating surface or head gasket. I would personally try and build something to lift it with, or try and rent a gantry crane. You will be happy you did.
I don’t think it would be too hard to do a cylinder leak down or compression test. Some are easier then others though. The 12 we have has a cooler on top of the valve cover and more piping but this one wouldn’t be too bad I don’t think. You would need to remove the valve cover, oil manifold, the under valve cover harness, injectors, I can’t remember is the injectors will come out around the rocker arms though. That could be more time consuming if they can’t. You would need the adapter for the head to test it, and the orings and seals to reseal the oil manifold and injectors. It’s not the easiest test to do on these engines but unnecessary parts can get expensive too.
Yes you need to remove it from inside the cab. There are bolts going around it that you will remove and I had to take the throttle pedal off and remove the seat and put it to the side to get the dog house out.
Amazing to watch it all come apart … can’t wait to see it put back together again! Thanks.
It always takes so much longer to get them back together.
Excellent video Jason, well explained and interesting to watch. Looking forward to part two.
That's a big job but at least you have plenty of room to work. Looking forward to part two. Have a great weekend!
Thank you. Yeah it’s nice having it open like that. I hope you have a good weekend too.
All fun stuff. I’m doing opposite end changing rod and main bearings on a 4630 John Deere tractor - it’s raining oil. Thanks
That’s sounds messy. I did an I frame rebuild on a dt466e and it dripped for days.
👍
Jason, this is one ugly job and yet you videoed and voiced over the video perfectly. I hope you have not gotten injured or injure yourself. This kind of heavy work I'm not experienced with, but I would like to bring up a few ideas. Why did the engine overheat? Please consider testing both EGR coolers now that they are off the engine. Use all new EGR cooler clamps. Replace the thermostat. Are the head bolts torque to yield? If so, order new ones. Do the injectors need to be rebuilt? Finally, I liked how you called the Charged Air Cooler a Charged Air Cooler and not Intercooler. I still remember making that verbal mistake during Cummings school. Please don't get injured. Take care.
I got away almost unscathed. I cut my knuckle on a hose clamp pretty good. Using these trucks to plow snow at slow speeds and high loads does get them pretty hot. I don’t think it got over 210* though. I did get new head bolts, they are torque to yield. The parts Dept schooled me on the difference between the charge air cooler and an intercooler, it’s good to know when some of the trucks have both. I noticed everything is an intercooler on Internet forum sites though.
Hey, I hope this reaches you im experiencing the same issue They are saying that cylinder 2 and cylinder 3 I have an issue they put dye in the engine and notice diesel in the oil so basically they are saying that I would either have to have an overhaul or rebuild or just get a hold entire engine altogether but they will have to see if there's a crack in the head because after the pressure test That's what they had notice about the diesel being mixed in with the oil cylinder 2/3 and six are all bad
So I’m about to pull a Cummins engine out of a bus. Might time lapse it like this.
What is the cost of a replacement cylinder head? That’s gotta be a chunk of change.
I’d watch your video if you do. The time lapse was the only way I could think to record it, because it takes so long and I like to include the whole process. I figured I’d try a voice over on it and see how it goes. It was 3800 for the head and 500 for the head gasket kit with bolts. There was other seals and gaskets that weren’t included I got so it ran around 5k. I changed the pucks and icp sensor too.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic I guess you gotta pay to play with the big boys. Our 6.7l ISB was $24000 including a $5000 core because it has a big hole in the block. Ouch.
Had an oil pressure sending unit snap off while driving….. it smoked a lot then went boom. That’s all she wrote! Hopefully you’ll see it here on “the RUclips” soon.
Easy for me to say but that did look too bad, removing those fenders and liners seemed like it made a big difference. Looking forward to part 2.
It wasn’t that bad. Coming apart is always easier. Getting everything clean and torqued is what slows me down
You need the lisle fan clutch air hammer attachment
You know, I think your right. I do need one of those.
Its mint dude. Just like the hydraflare mastercool kit one of those time savers. Im on a maxx dt that dropped a valve seat into cyl 1 this week. Customer wanted to pull the cooling pack next time im saving myself the time. Great video. Are you in New England?
I actually just ordered a lisle 40100 hub puller I’m interested in trying. Im hoping it might retire my hammer for removing my Chevy and dodge hubs. I saw a short for it and had to get it. Yes I’m in New England.
So how much time did you have been just taking all this stuff from around the head and how much does the head way and would it be possible for two people to remove it? would that present a challenge?
It took me about 5-6 hours to remove everything and get the head out. To clean everything up and put it back together took me probably around 10-12 hours. It was about 3 work days to do it all. I’m sure it could be done faster depending on the condition of the parts to begin with. This was a salt truck so some of the parts didn’t want to cooperate. Two people can lift the head, it’s not super heavy a (100-200lbs). The hard part is getting it back in without damaging the mating surface or head gasket. I would personally try and build something to lift it with, or try and rent a gantry crane. You will be happy you did.
Thank you I guess it’ll be too much hassle to try and do a cylinder leak down test or compression test on these engines
Thank you I guess it’ll be too much hassle to try and do a cylinder leak down test or compression test on these engines
Thank you I guess it’ll be too much hassle to try and do a cylinder leak down test or compression test on these engines
I don’t think it would be too hard to do a cylinder leak down or compression test. Some are easier then others though. The 12 we have has a cooler on top of the valve cover and more piping but this one wouldn’t be too bad I don’t think. You would need to remove the valve cover, oil manifold, the under valve cover harness, injectors, I can’t remember is the injectors will come out around the rocker arms though. That could be more time consuming if they can’t. You would need the adapter for the head to test it, and the orings and seals to reseal the oil manifold and injectors. It’s not the easiest test to do on these engines but unnecessary parts can get expensive too.
How did u remove the firewall part do u have to remove it from inside de cabin ?
Yes you need to remove it from inside the cab. There are bolts going around it that you will remove and I had to take the throttle pedal off and remove the seat and put it to the side to get the dog house out.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic yeah thnx i alredy figure it out 👍
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic have u worked on this específic model Maxforce 13 Navi star
I’ve have never worked on a maxxforce 13