Broadhead Sharpening Hack l Ranch Fairy
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- Don't waste money trying to sharpen broadheads. Learn to sharpen, THEN sharpen broadheads! Seriously, hit play.
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Adult arrow binge list
1. Heavy Arrow Handload Video: • Bare shaft arrow tunin...
2. Bare Shaft Nock Tuning: • Bare Shaft Nock Tuning...
3. Fletched Nock Tuning: • Nock Tuning Fletched A...
4. Unpredictable Blood Trails: • Bloodtrails are NOT Pr...
5. How Broadheads Kill: • How Broadheads Kill
6. Broadhead Penetration Basics: • Broadhead Penetration ...
For ranch fairy Merch just search: Ranch Fairy T Shirts
Hand sharpening a blade is a skill that very few men have these days, but is one of the most valuable I have learned in my adult life. It has paid off weekly if not daily. Friends and family have benefitted from it. It took time, there was a moment or two of frustration in the beginning, but that old rusty axe I learned on was super sharp after I actually learned. Thanks for teaching this to others Troy. Very valuable stuff here folks.
I learned how to sharpen a knife when I was 8yrs old. My Grandfather gave me a yellow handled Imperial pocket knife and a 2 sided carborundum stone. He showed me how to sharpen it on the stone, strop it on my leather belt and told me if he ever found it dull, he would take it back. He never got it back, I’m 58yrs old now and still have it. I shoot a 65lb longbow with 145gr single bevel SHARP broadheads, on my sitka spruce adult arrows. Love the videos Troy, tell it like it is.
“Little clip so you can be tough”
I lost it at that🤣🤣🤣🤣 I drank the ranch fairy kool-aid and will never not shoot adult arrows again. Holy wah these pack a punch
As a person that others pay to get their expensive knives sharp, I whole heartedly agree with the RF. You can chase down a $600 stone(quite easily) but if you can't hold a consistent angle and learn to hit the apex, form a burr, and remove a burr, it won't help at all. I always say, "the only way to get better is time served at the stones" . Invest in the skill, and the tools you use become modular.
You can also skip the strop and use newspaper. Spend your money on a quality coarse stone.
@@jonbrown9490 course stones are only good for wrecked blades
@@mikeguy9668 I guess that depends on what you consider course. My lowest grit stone is 220. I finish on a 6k. That being said I still agree that most amateurs are way better off with a quality coarse stone first.
@@jonbrown9490 you can fuck the profile on a blade up real fast on a course stone. If I have a really dull blade I'll hit it with 500 first and end up at a thousand and finish with a strop.
@@mikeguy9668 you can fuck the bevel up with any grit stone. That has zero to do with the grit of the stone and everything to do with skill and technique.
Thanks Troy for the practical tips you give. The one thing I don’t have is a strop. I’ve always used a ceramic stick to finish with but after watching you finish with that strop I’m gonna get one. Thanks again...I’ve learned a ton over years watching your vids.
No point teaching calculus when most folks can't count. This is a good way to get people counting, some of them might even figure out how to add and subtract.
The man knows what he's talking about. I followed his advice with broadheads last fall. I bought some 200 grain German Jaeger 2 blade broadheads and sharpened them using the Ranch Fairy technique including using the leather strop. I was shaving 1/8" wide strips from a piece of printer paper. When I shot a nice buck, I placed my arrow in the area he advised us to shoot in another video. My deer ran less than 20 yards and died very quickly. Maybe 30 seconds from arrow release to dead deer. Bottom line....listen to this man! By the way, that broadhead was still shaving sharp after harvesting a whitetail!
Love the way you explain stuff! Just like one of my uncles teaching me something. straight to the point my way or the highway.
Damn you Ranch Fairy. I sharpened my new Magnus Black Hornets the way you showed the THP guys and while hunting accidentally knocked my my bow over in the blind. Broadhead straight through the side of the blind like butter. Haha. Thanks. I guess I did it right.
yes, he used the Stay Sharp guide. If you want them even sharper there is a video to show you how. ruclips.net/video/9tg0PfHkcfU/видео.html
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 I used your Stay Sharp guide. It worked very well. Definitely recommend, especially for broadheads. Never saw that string trick before. I just bought some of the serrated heads. I'll try it out.
@@Patrick-wu6kt Yes, tricks and hacks and methods for making bowhunters more lethal is what my channel is all about. Simple, low cost solutions that increase bowhunter lethality. Thats what I do.
Sharpen those single bevels with a Stay Sharp guide for a razor's edge. And its super easy. No PHD needed. Super easy and effective and razor sharp blades when done. And its very low cost. DO NOT waste money on a strop when you can use cereal box cardboard for free. Spend the money on good broadheads and use a free strop. I show how in all my sharpening videos.
I was a professional butcher for many years so keeping a sharp knife was a must. Your method is a little crude, but effective. In the end, you’re getting a very sharp edge and that’s more important than the technique that got you there.
Beginners!!
@@RanchFairy lol. Everyone has to start somewhere. Keep doing what you do. You put out a lot of good info that’s easy to understand and follow.
@@gsnicholas8522
Yep! I’ve got all kind of “advanced” toys here for sharpening. And as you know - it’s a worm hole
Glad you're able to monetize 👍🏼
It is really good to see you people making you tube videos 👏 👏 👏
If you want to learn how to sharpen what ever it may be broadheads knife. If you put in a little time you can get it taken care of but you have to put your time in if you are just starting down the path
Found this guy this past fall, I cant wait to build my arrows after striper szn
Just received my DMT Diafold last night. Already revived half my knives to 80%, thanks for the tips!
BLAM
I find sharpening quite therapeutic..! Very satisfying when you get it..!
Since Im all about helping out the new guys and the young guys with little to no funding for bowhunting, I can tell you to NOT waste ANY money on a strop. Put that money into good broadheads. You already have a strop at home. In all my broadhead sharpening videos I show and explain the use of cereal box cardboard on a flat surface and buffing compound to make a nearly free strop in any size you like. And another benefit is you dont have to clean it or resurface it.
When it becomes clogged, just eat another box of cereal. That will save you both time and money. Im all about broadhead sharpening and educating bowhunters. Get a razors edge with very little cost or effort. Broadhead lethality is my goal and getting others there is the mission.
Same with knives. Shitty steel will never take an edge that will shave arm hair, let alone keep the edge. You can sharpen, hone, stropp, til your blue in the face. If you ever get it sharp, that paper slice test will dull it😂
I made my strops pretty cheap man and I guarantee you that they work better than cardboard. But I get where you're coming from, some people try to sell strops for way to much
@@mikeguy9668 piece of leather laminated to a board works great. I use a conventional stropp (not cheap and almost 1/4" thick 3/16 maybe and very smooth) for the razor i put on my face every day. I guess fine, medium and course applies to leather as well as stones. I don't understand it, but my home made strop works best on filet knives and real strop best on straight razor. Edges are all different and fineky😂
Look up "scary sharp" The woodworking method of sharpening with sandpaper. You can use the whole method, but if we are talking strops, just use the last step on sandpaper. It is fast cheep, lasts, if you get the right paper. And it is more aggressive than a strop.
@@HondoTrailside a strop doesnt sharpen. Once you hace finished sharpening with grit, no matter how fine, the strop just polishes the striations left by grit. Its just the final honning touch. Probably useless for broadhead penetration, but very mandatory for a clean facial hair shave.
Keep preaching, great and helpful content.
Really love your cynical sarcastic Banter Ranch Fairy!! LOL
You have a good technique, and it works for you, and will others. That burr, you are describing is called a fin. The fastest way to achieve it is to pull the edge into the stone (on both sides), with your course and medium stones. This is sharpening. With your med fine and fine stones, you draw the edge away from the stone. This is honing. Then stropp, just as you said. This will save you a lot of strokes.
Also, look directly at the edge. If it reflects light, it needs more sharpening. If you cant see it, because it is refracting light, it is ready to hone. No PHD here, but i do shave with a straight razor, every day. The right direction for the stone, and looking to see if the edge reflects light or not will save you a lot of time, is all. Over sharpening is the easiest thing to do, and can cause lots of discouragement😂
Good vid!❤
Always here to learn!!! Do you have any devices you use to “look” at the roughness of the edge? I’ve put mine under a computer based microscope and it’s not perfectly polished smooth BUT better than just 2 years ago!!!!
@@RanchFairy I'm not that sophisticated😂 I will use a magnifying glass, to see where I'm at, on say a long blade I'm not familiar with. You can feel the fin, or the "burr", so don't need to look at that. If it is is real big and easy to see that it looks like a piece of aluminum foil, that means you were ready to hone, a hundred strokes ago😂 Those diamond stones cut real fast. If your edge is kind of sharp, and doesn't reflect light, but you want it sharpER, skip the course stone. Just a few sharpen strokes on medium, will have it ready for the hone stone (fine grit). If your fine stone is an actual soft stone, rhey clog with metal, real fast. If yours is covered in metal color stripes, its clogged and won't polish. Your course diamond stones, under slow warm water will clean that metal off, real easy. Honing under a soft stream of water will save a lot of strokes and keep the srone clean. When the stone is clean, and your angle is correct, you can feel the stone grab the knife, vs slide across with little friction, you are honing very efficiently. Anyone that has tried to sharpen a knife has felt what i just described. So, you strive to feel the stone grabbing the knife. That means the whole edge is laying flat on a clean stone, that is working. Its all about moving to the next step, in the least amount of strokes, so you don't grow to hate sharpening😂 Of course, this all applies to any edge, and your broad heads. Hope I didn't bore you😂
The instant you can look directly at the edge, and it doesn't reflect light, but looks black or invisible, you are done with the course stone. As soon as you feel the fine stone "grab" the edge about fifteen times, alternating sides, its ready for the stropp. It took me millions of wasted strokes, and a lot of un-needed elbow grease to learn how to keep the whole edge flat on the stone, and when you are done with one stone and ready for the next. I hope i saved some folks a lot of time and aggravation😂
@@vitodelorto1796
Practice makes it work better!!!
@@RanchFairy It took me a long time. No one will ne an ace at it right away. They should not be discouraged if it doesn't work as easy as on the video, their first few times. Once they get it down, they will have another adult skill, to go with their adult arrows😂
Haven’t watched yet but great content
Awesome video, awesome channel. thanks for all the great info.......
This week I'm going through the process and building my adult arrows. Then I'll see what broadheads I'll use. Whatever I shoot this fall will have 2 holes and may not even feel it. 😁🏹
Take a look at alien archery Broadheads. They are less expensive due to the fact they need to be sharpened but I enjoy sharpening. I have only shot them at 20yards indoors so far but they are flying perfect with a total arrow weight of 660 grain and four fletch. Just waiting for the wind to die down so I can test at longer distances.
@@goldmountain6520 I'll take a look. After bare shaft tuning, I'm going to be shooting Easton Axis Match grade, 5mm, 300 spine arrows. 225 gr up front, about 565 (not including vanes). Was shooting bullet holes in the paper and they just came off of my bow really nice with a quick recovery. From 10' to 10 yards they flew as straight as I could ask. Going with the AAE Max hunter vanes.
You really can't beat tuffhead or cutthroat. As long as you don't lose them they'll last a lifetime. Dont buy cheap steel broadheads
Howard Hill had a unique way to sharpen broadhead.
Cause trouble at the archery shop with the flat brimmed guys🤣🤣
I work in a meat plant, there is a easier way to do it (in my opinion)... not saying your wrong but the way I do it is I combined what I call with the grain and across the grain where I can keep the blade symmetrical from one end to the other... it will give you the exact same strokes and amount of steel removed... I also pull the blade to me with the edge facing me sharpening the “right hand side” and push away on the other side..... that’s just the way I was taught by my uncle years ago.... there is really no incorrect way to do it if your the only one who sharpens that knife and you can do it the same with the same angle every time...
Great video!
Thanks RF!
I learned 2 things today, how to actually sharpen knives for one.
Another good video Troy
15:43... it's what he cares about. Thanks Coach!
Paying attention!!!
I am one of the gray haired men now, but as a child I remember the "Gray Hairs" pulling their knives backwards on their bull hide boots. I learned why.
Oh that’s an awesome strop. I’m gonna try it on my snake boots!
@@RanchFairy I am not sure I would try that! Lol. Do as you wish.
I was raised around a bunch of poor folks. We didn't have a lot of money. Some people have to prioritize their money. If you are going bow hunt, your broad head is a priority. I think you have plenty of money. Some people don't. Single bevel broad heads are the absolute best. I used grizzly 160 grain for years. I used Simmonds Land shark for a while. The 190 grain Simmonds was amazing on deer and hogs. The tip curls if major bone impact is made. I am glad you are studious. I am glad that I can afford better made broad heads. I still own three of these baby piss heads. I bet they all 3 kill deer or pigs. I am going to Texas in October. They allow corn feeders there. It will be a blood bath. I really appreciate what you are doing. Don't just learn to shoot! Learn the capability of what you are shooting.
@@clintwalker7690
Well said - if people don’t have a ton of money. Here’s the order of operation.
Spend money on high quality reusable broadheads
Learn to sharpen.
Shoot decent arrows
Decent bow.
Broadheads kill animals
I picked up those dmt diafolds and a strop 2 weeks ago, practiced on a couple crap knives now every knife in my kitchen is razor sharp. Its not that hard to get the hang of just gotta dedicate some time to it
Makes a big difference when your broadheads are scary.
Bloodtrails go up
Bloodtrailing - shortens!!!
Bought the Tuffhead Evos during the pre-sale like you recommended. Looking at strops online now...
ruclips.net/video/pkhWn10dfh0/видео.html
If you get a sharpening tool, get a KME self aligning model. Jason at Tuffhead sells a strop and Amazon.
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 Thanks for the link!
@@RanchFairy Thanks, as always, RF!
@@reganjeremiah08 Im all about getting bowhunters into sharp heads with no skill and very little effort. From novice to expert. Its not hard to get a razors edge and it doesnt have to be expensive. Best afield.
Good info as usual.
Open question.🙋♂️ For a lower draw/poundage 🏹 (27" 50lbs), What would be more effective single bevel, double bevel, or serrated broad head? Currently using a 3 blade.
500+ grains perfect arrow flight
Would be most effective.
Then - single bevel - SHARP! Always sharp
As a Carpenter, I use similar methods to sharpen planes and chisels. However I hollow grind the edges first and depending on the tool use, create a micro-bevel which is the working part of the blade. Would a single bevel still work if it was hollow ground instead of flat ground?
Watching now gotta learn how to sharpen my adult sized broad heads
Many years ago when someone invented those diamond impregnated sharpeners I have always carried one in my hunting gear. For some reason they seem to be somewhat difficult to find. I prefer the really small and narrow one with a handle to keep fingers away from the cutting edge. Out in the country is no place to slice a finger open. Just ruins a good day.
RF, have tried the Steel Force Traditional Series 2 blade single bevels? Sirius has been out of stock on their single bevels for a while. Interested if you've given the Steel Force heads a try.
Heading up to my property in a few weeks with a test kit. If my bow/arrows like the 225 or 300 gr, I'm thinking I might try them.
Hey RF thanks for the tip here today. I am not a great sharpener, You have given me pointers that will definitely help me improve. I used your instruction video for sharpening my Black Hornet Ser Razor and they are razors. I am looking at getting a strop--are there any you would recommend? let me know. thanks for all your great content. I like regular truthful people that are regular Joe's or RF that are more like me, not a pro yet like what we do, and try our best to be very good at it. thanks again James
You just went forwards!!!
Love the videos, and proof that you show on heavy arrow great Broad head penetration. Man you have some haters out there for sure. Probably flapper shooters. 😂😂😂
Also, I could not agree more with the quality of steel statement.... but what I will say is a 10”x 8’ fence post will go through a car if you if you send it 250 fps at 20 yards... coming from hurricanes land, I’ve seen it before lol
Nice one.
Haven't heard that sound at 4:45 in a few years
Whoa! Whoa! Whoa! "they are stamped out". The best broadheads ever made, with the longest pedigree, the head that started the whole Ashby thing (you are on the pros staff), the Grizzly, is stamped. So are a ton of other heads out there like Zwickey. Most of the classic heads are stamped. The Ribtec was 100% stamped, that was the sole method of forming, and it is a tank. The CNC heads should be great also. They can't be better. And none of them has the same track record. Probably never will as the market is so fragmented, and sooner or later a Chinese company will wake up and steal it. If you see the knives they turn out for what guys are paying for broadheads, it won't last long when they get on the scent. Stamped heads are the gold standard.
That's a good one, and you have my favorite Jim Ryser intro.
I had trouble, at first. took 2
weeks to learn. Definitely got discouraged. It clicked after hearing "pretend there are 3 coins under the blade." Using cheap steal to learn is helpful too.
Thank god we have someone to teach these youngsters a thing or two... Lol
There is a lot for them to learn.
@@sethwinkel5721 ain't that the truth!
Love it. U know ur shit. Love the pHd comment too lmao. Type o guy I Wana slam some down with.
Got a question Troy. Went to a bow shop today to get a new d loop and asked him to check it for spec. He did so in conversation I mentioned that I was thinking of paper tuning. Well this owner proceeded to tell me that with a whisker biscuit type rest you can't paper tune. One do you think that is true? Also everybody that I talk to is like a brick wall about heavy arrows. I think it is definitely difficult for you and your cause. But thanks from me anyway.
Ranch fairy...what do you think of the grizzly stik 650 test kit system? I haven’t had the chance to try it out yet, I was thinking of getting that for a hulk of an arrow set up with a single bevel plus insert...
Troy, you got those 2 knuckle heads from elk shape doing videos about you LOLOL...
So I hear - only had people mention it - I don’t watch many YT videos - reading books is my gig -
Doesn’t have to be perfect with the factory bevel. Just be consistent and use light pressure. Angle like you’re cutting a thin sliver. Get any blade shaving sharp on the edge of the car window lol.
Strop on folder piece of cardboard.
Teaching people who don’t know how.
And yeah - you’re right
Have a good video or reference for how to load and set up a new strop? Ordering one today.
All over the internet - that’s why I didn’t do one
I've been doing this for years. My friends all say it's TOO sharp! I ask them do they carry a saw or a knife?
More to come on this wives tale.
I love your channel as help me out a lot and I'm hoping to kill a deer with your advice next season!
My uncle is a big time traditional guy in W NYS. He’s an Ashby guy. Asked him how he sharpens. He clamps the broad head in a duck bill vise grip, then clamps the vise grips in a bench vise. Then hits it with a fine mill file until he gets a burr down the length. Then stones and stops to fine tune. Trick to good broad heads that should be hard as woodpecker lips is to start with something aggressive. I.e. a file or 200# diamond. Otherwise you’ll be working all day. Look for shiny spots on the edge. Those aren’t sharp.
Good broadheads are harder than woodpecker lips. If you go at it with a dainty stone, it’ll take hours instead of minutes. I said this twice because I mostly wanted to say “harder than woodpecker lips” again.
Strops only go backwards! Hahaha!
Thanks. Excellent video. I hope you don't mind me asking, but I have been using Montec G5 broadheads on my crossbows and would appreciate your insight on their quality and how to sharpen them.
If they are stainless steel (grey) they are very soft. That is why Montec came out with the carbon steel version. THey are a little harder. If you lay that head flat on a abrasive surface, you will get a 60 degree angle on the blade (30 degrees on a side) many sont like that angle. I can get you to 44 degrees (22 degrees on a side) and hollow ground and produce a far sharper edge with a curved hone called the 344. ITs works on all the fixed, 3 blade, one piece heads. Its super easy to use and low cost. Just know their steel (Montec) is not the best due to the sintering process they use.
@@innovativeoutdoorsman5067 thank you kindly. you are a scholar and a gentleman.
@@davidstonkus3288 My channel is all about broadhead sharpening for the new (and experienced) guys to give them really simply and low cost ways to reach a razors edge. Bowhunting and broadhead lethality is the purpose of my channel. Free hand sharpening is OK but people want low cost and simple solutions that work, not a talk on how they should learn to free hand sharpen.
Strops only go backwards
Strops only go backwards
Strops only go backwards
Strops only go backwards
Strops only go backwards
Strops only go backwards
STROPS ONLY GO B A C K W A R D S
its fun to see how 'sharp' you can get it, then after burning through some animal hair you're back to zero or 'not so sharp'
Scary - what if it were 75% of your best sharpe edge - and you hunted with that
Can you add where to get those sharpeners in the comments?
❤❤
Hey rf.
What direction would you go when sharpening a 3 blade broadhead?e
Push forward on sandpaper or stones
And then BACKWARD on a strop or 2000 grit
Would this method with the DMT sharpeners work on IW broadheads?
All broadheads
The best slicing edge is 0 bevel .
Of course
Have you tried the VPA single bevel broadheads. There the only single bevels i can find in stock and at $80 for 3 I can see why. They have a flat tip on them. That's the part that has me hesitant on buying them.
You’ll have to tanto that tip and sharpen them
They don’t come sharp.
Sharpening is hardly the reason to pass - you need to sharpen broadheads period.
It is going to be a fine broadhead.
Hard steel, not terribly difficult.
Tuffhead evolution should also get a look as well as grizzly stick samurai - black ferrule
@@RanchFairy ok thanks Troy. Just got the test kit shooting good now on to building a dozen. Thanks for all the great content and help. Very excited to sling one at a pig.
@@brandoncole5519
Heck yeah. Holler at Sirius about ranch fairy EZ button arrows or bare shafts and give it a go!
@@RanchFairy already did.
go to the dollar store buy a $1 foldable lock blade pocket knife if you can sharpen that you can sharpen anything
JB Weld that cheap lock back knife, and you will never shut it on your fingers again. Lol!
Great idea
How do I get the spreadsheets you were talking about with Brandon?
They are locked in a top secret room because the twizzler guys get their feelings hurt
@@RanchFairy I understand the importance of an arrow that will blow through at any angle. I'm over here in nacogdoches county and we got some big ole boar hogs but I also hunt out west and need that 70 yard ability too. I just put some 170s on the front to try and cut a turkeys head off and although my arrow dropped more at first my last pin 67yards was the same with 100 and 170 grain field points. Same arrow. I was hoping you could shed some light on this for me. Sure would save me about a grand if I could get those spreadsheets lol. Feel free to send me an email skillernfarms@gmail.com
@@ericskillern2437
Well, it’s pretty simple. Your arrow also has to penetrate the western animals. Not just hit them. 600 grains shoots flatter than you think! But when it arrives - it still weighs 600 grains
Fact from lab radar 65#/28.5” draw
388 grain arrow loses 33 FPS
616 loses 14 but weights 40% (spitball) more
@@RanchFairy that makes alot of sense. My buddy keeps telling me I have to shoot it on lab radar and I couldn't be right about the heavy and light arrow being the same at 67 and not the same at 20. It's not easy for me to go down and get a 25" arrow to 600gr to test. I can't tell the bow shops what I want to test 🙄 if you even ask for heavy components they tell you easton or victory have spent a ton of money on r&d and there is a reason they sell this crap. I say crap because my inserts are breaking when I hit plywood, fiberglass kayak, I even skipped an arrow off the water and it broke. I've been shooting 380 grain total package and it's getting the job done on deer but I can see the hand writing on the wall. These big pigs you got to get quartering away or your not going to find it most of the time.
Even though your...um...sharpening method, looked a bit out of the ordinary, lol, it does not matter. All that matters is a nice sharp knife. That's how I view it. Lol
Magnus are $45 for 3. They aren’t pot metal
Who are the two FAIRIES that don't like this Fairy???
Also I have 200 grain broadheads should I put em in my 300 hunter xt with 100 insert I’m pulling 70
My bow is right at 73 lbs and it didn't like 200 grain with 100 grain insert on a 300 spine but it loved them on the 250..your arrow length matters also I shoot 28 1/4
@@whitetailtherapy7908 i shoot like 29 my guy
@@andrew.plank.music. I got a video where I run through the whole Ranch fairy test kit if your interested. But just my opinion I would bump the weight down or atleast go to 250 spine..175 and 200 grain didn't shoot very well for me on 300 spine.
@@whitetailtherapy7908 ok, I’m 13 tho so I don’t got that $$😂
@@andrew.plank.music. I totally understand man. At your age I was the same way had to use whatever I could lol. Troy deff has alot more knowledge on this . Some inserts you can cut down also. His website has his email he will reply and help you out if you want more options to shoot the 200 grain broadhead 👍
I don't sharpen, I just buy new ones ;)
Long as they are sharp :)
Any gorilla armed guys on here. Its so cute seeing 28 inch arrows but does anyone else shoot a 31.5 or 32 inch arrow. I would be interested in knowing your arrow builds
I shoot a 2020 hoyt XXL at 70 pounds with 125 magnis ser razors up front and a 300 spine arrow
Got a case of Gillingham syndrome!!! Hahah
Spine up one level from any of the “cute guys” spine chart and roll about 300 grains up front - it’s cute when a lady running 43# at 24” and 575 grains shoots through a bull nilgai and all the African stuff! But TV guys can’t get through a deer
Ya I shoot 31.5" arrows at 78 LBS. I have had good luck with the Black Eagle Spartan 200's and 125 grain tips. they are moving at 295 and are a serious hammer down range. I think they are coming in right around that 540 grn with lighted nocks. I have also shot the Easton Axis 240 spine with that 125 cut down to 31" and have killed quite a few elk and antelope running the 125 QAD Exodus heads. The blades are a bit of a pain to sharpen but it is possible.
@@christopherdoyle5815
Let’s trade arms
@@RanchFairy omg the ole rf with extra long arms lol you'd be RUclips famous 😂
🤣😂🤣🤣😂🤣
How can I get a pic of my hog on there?
troy@ranchfairy.com