I enjoy repairing computer hardware, I don't do this for money but rather for enjoyment. Other hobbies cost quite a lot of money so comparatively this is not expensive. Thanks for sharing.
I wanted to mention that, after getting it in location, first let the solder cool and harden ( a little) then before applying hot air press down in the centre of said chip then bring in the heat and slowly heat it up and be mindful of the pressure that you don't get any sideways movement., then after heating up, stop applying heat and keep the pressure until it cools then release. I know more easy to say than doing. I think you did pretty good! Keep the great repair work. Cheers! I love these motherboard repair videos, not many people out there doing these. You going to be a Rock Star! of repairing motherboards. I'll tell all my tech buddies to check your channel out. See ya!
I would really have liked a more in depth perspective on the diagnosis. As for the soldering job, I generally put light downward pressure on the part once it's in place over the pins. I remove that pressure once I feel the part click down on the mainboard. You might also try a bigger nozzle on your hot air rework station with a lower air speed. This helps to gradually bring the temperature up in a more directed area. Using a circular pattern over the pins, you'll find that they all lift off a lot closer to the same time.
In my opinion, you don't really need a preheater for SIO as the old SIO is dead anyway. And for soldering the new SIO, you don't even need hot air. Good job keep it up btw.
Another tip, when removing the solder of the pads with the wick, do not move it across the pads, move it along the pads in the same direction of the pads, less likely to tear the pads off the board that way
Hi, a tip for you, if you are certain the chip is U/S as you are with this one, you can carefully cut through the pins right at the body of the chip with a good craft knife, then when the body of the chip is removed, you remove all the pins by wiping across them with your soldering iron. Bob
hi 16:03... all the board clean, i prefer to add some flux in pads, install chip and alignt, and solder in the end by tip only, ( in a case of a heavy board) some pre heating under neat. ps- instal and alignt in clear pad is so much easy. :) never the less good job.
Good practice is to stick something like caption tape in the middle of the sio chip as it will keep important part of chip somewhat cool, you only need legs to be at soldering temperature anyway.
Have you tried soldering paste? I think it's better because you can put the SIO on the pads and it doesn't slide off from the solder bumps. Also, I feel like the paste holds it in place a bit, and it's not floating so much as it does on the liquified flux. Not an expert myself, but I found it useful. Good job fixing the board! :)
question: at 16 mins you use a qtip to clean up the flux, are you not worried about the cotton fibers getting on the sodder points? Qtips are notorius for leaving bits behind
Because i already used wick on the pads, there is no solder left, which the qtip could have been stuck on, otherwise you are right and need to be careful because of left fibers!
I have a B550 board that seems to be braindead and failing very early in the POST cycle without beep codes. Every key voltage seems OK, but one curious thing is that an ambient standby LED is not activating at all. It flickers on for a second and goes out immediately, despite receiving the +5VSB voltage rail when the PSU is turned on. Is this something that could be caused by a faulty PCH/SIO? thanks
It very well could be, like stated in the video startup is always connected to PCH and SIO. I would look for borken off components on the back and front side! Does the board react to the power button? If not there is something around the SIO or what is connected to it!
@@MainboardMedic thanks for the response! The power button responds normally, so I guess it rules that out. Looks like it's back to troubleshooting the PCH and CPU for me...
My vga light stayed white. Just like your dram light did. I have tried resitting the gpu, using another gpu, hdmi cable in different ports. Nothing. Any ideas ? Thanks.
Different pcie slots, looking if the Keyboard capslock indicator reacts, do you have a bios flashback funktion? Different display and maybe using displayport isntead off HDMI!
@MainboardMedic motherboard doesn't have any other pcie slots. Keyboard doesn't do anything. Will try the DP but not holding my breath. Pretty sure ifs a motherboard issue. Thanks
Hello Medic, I' got on an MSI PRO B650M-A WiFi which which powers on but is stuck with CPU and DRAM leds. Cpu and ram are working, tried on another board. Would you spare some suggestions?
YUP.. Try Leaving the board freshly cleaned, and tin the chips with pillows of solder works best for me. Pre tinning the chips BTW also ensures whatever corrosion they accumulated whilst in the warehouse has all been removed by the flux and solder you use.. APU👁👍
Your chip didn't play nice because you didn't use enough flux. Drown that sh#$. You literally can never use too much flux. Flux is your friend. Invite flux and all of fluxs' 🎉 friends to the party. But seriously, flux creates the surface tension that you want in order for solder to clump and in so doing that chip will sit right down. To be clear: You need that chip fully submerged in flux. Great vids btw.
![A Great AFFORDABLE Motherboard! - MSI PRO B760-P WIFI DDR4 Motherboard - Unboxing & Overview! [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YC1cLmHK71I/mqdefault.jpg)
I enjoy repairing computer hardware, I don't do this for money but rather for enjoyment. Other hobbies cost quite a lot of money so comparatively this is not expensive.
Thanks for sharing.
Do you specifically repair motherboards aswell?
I wanted to mention that, after getting it in location, first let the solder cool and harden ( a little) then before applying hot air press down in the centre of said chip then bring in the heat and slowly heat it up and be mindful of the pressure that you don't get any sideways movement., then after heating up, stop applying heat and keep the pressure until it cools then release. I know more easy to say than doing. I think you did pretty good! Keep the great repair work. Cheers! I love these motherboard repair videos, not many people out there doing these. You going to be a Rock Star! of repairing motherboards. I'll tell all my tech buddies to check your channel out. See ya!
I would really have liked a more in depth perspective on the diagnosis. As for the soldering job, I generally put light downward pressure on the part once it's in place over the pins. I remove that pressure once I feel the part click down on the mainboard. You might also try a bigger nozzle on your hot air rework station with a lower air speed. This helps to gradually bring the temperature up in a more directed area. Using a circular pattern over the pins, you'll find that they all lift off a lot closer to the same time.
In my opinion, you don't really need a preheater for SIO as the old SIO is dead anyway. And for soldering the new SIO, you don't even need hot air. Good job keep it up btw.
Definitely way easier with preheater.
@@Dandan-tg6tj yup, but they usually go for 100$+. Just saying for people who don't have it.
Thanks for doing! It was informative!
Nice, good to see people teaching electronic skills
Another tip, when removing the solder of the pads with the wick, do not move it across the pads, move it along the pads in the same direction of the pads, less likely to tear the pads off the board that way
Hi, a tip for you, if you are certain the chip is U/S as you are with this one, you can carefully cut through the pins right at the body of the chip with a good craft knife, then when the body of the chip is removed, you remove all the pins by wiping across them with your soldering iron. Bob
hi 16:03... all the board clean, i prefer to add some flux in pads, install chip and alignt, and solder in the end by tip only, ( in a case of a heavy board) some pre heating under neat.
ps- instal and alignt in clear pad is so much easy. :) never the less good job.
Good practice is to stick something like caption tape in the middle of the sio chip as it will keep important part of chip somewhat cool, you only need legs to be at soldering temperature anyway.
Ive seen people do that with PCH´s. Never have seen someone do that with an SIO but it is good practise!
Have you tried soldering paste? I think it's better because you can put the SIO on the pads and it doesn't slide off from the solder bumps. Also, I feel like the paste holds it in place a bit, and it's not floating so much as it does on the liquified flux. Not an expert myself, but I found it useful.
Good job fixing the board! :)
That would be interesting to try out! I have no experience with applying solder paste but i should try it, thank you!
А Вы можете показать и объяснить как делать замеры основные и понимать павер сиквенс материнский плат? 👍🤝
У меня есть видеоролик от Asus Prime , там я об этом упомянул.
Hi, amazing video! have you never managed how to remove, for example, pci slot socket or ddr4 sim socket from mainboard?
I have never attempted it. I dont think it would be a problem, just very time consuming!
Nice repair, thanks for sharing. Not sure if it’s necessary, but I always remove the coin cell battery when using a preheater.
Yes it should be done and i again forgot to do it!
question: at 16 mins you use a qtip to clean up the flux, are you not worried about the cotton fibers getting on the sodder points? Qtips are notorius for leaving bits behind
Because i already used wick on the pads, there is no solder left, which the qtip could have been stuck on, otherwise you are right and need to be careful because of left fibers!
Put a lot of flux when soldering it will slide into place u good to go. Btw don't you have to reprogram the chip before soldering it?
I have a B550 board that seems to be braindead and failing very early in the POST cycle without beep codes. Every key voltage seems OK, but one curious thing is that an ambient standby LED is not activating at all. It flickers on for a second and goes out immediately, despite receiving the +5VSB voltage rail when the PSU is turned on. Is this something that could be caused by a faulty PCH/SIO? thanks
It very well could be, like stated in the video startup is always connected to PCH and SIO. I would look for borken off components on the back and front side! Does the board react to the power button? If not there is something around the SIO or what is connected to it!
@@MainboardMedic thanks for the response! The power button responds normally, so I guess it rules that out. Looks like it's back to troubleshooting the PCH and CPU for me...
@@fuzzystudios7502 Most of the time when i had this kind of behaviour it was a knocked off component. Exspeciall check the backside!
Is it OK for the CMOS cell to there while you work on the board?
Nope i forgot to take it out!
My vga light stayed white. Just like your dram light did. I have tried resitting the gpu, using another gpu, hdmi cable in different ports. Nothing. Any ideas ? Thanks.
Different pcie slots, looking if the Keyboard capslock indicator reacts, do you have a bios flashback funktion? Different display and maybe using displayport isntead off HDMI!
@MainboardMedic motherboard doesn't have any other pcie slots. Keyboard doesn't do anything. Will try the DP but not holding my breath. Pretty sure ifs a motherboard issue. Thanks
Question, was the new SIO pre programmed, or will/does the bios program it at fire up?
On ATX Boards they always get programmed by the Bios on the board!
@@MainboardMedic Thanks, wasn't sure.
Hello Medic, I' got on an MSI PRO B650M-A WiFi which which powers on but is stuck with CPU and DRAM leds. Cpu and ram are working, tried on another board. Would you spare some suggestions?
I would check the DDR voltages. DDR sometimes called VDDQ, VPPM , SPD and then the data connection between the socket and the DDR!
check if your RAM sticks are compatible with your Motherboard. and also, wait few minutes to get POST. Try different RAM stick on different slots
YUP.. Try Leaving the board freshly cleaned, and tin the chips with pillows of solder works best for me.
Pre tinning the chips BTW also ensures whatever corrosion they accumulated whilst in the warehouse
has all been removed by the flux and solder you use..
APU👁👍
it easy to solder IO chip why you use hard method .????? .and you dont need hot air ...
Your chip didn't play nice because you didn't use enough flux. Drown that sh#$. You literally can never use too much flux. Flux is your friend. Invite flux and all of fluxs' 🎉 friends to the party. But seriously, flux creates the surface tension that you want in order for solder to clump and in so doing that chip will sit right down. To be clear: You need that chip fully submerged in flux. Great vids btw.