Ich danke dir für die Tipps und Tricks, ich verstehe zwar nicht alles, aber du erklärst das so toll, dass ich es auch ohne viele Worte verstehe. Weiter so, ich freue mich auf die nächsten Videos 👏👏👏
This is probably the best tutorial that I have watched about measuring for and attaching borders and I have watched MANY. THANK you for sharing your vast knowledge!
Thanks for the border tips. I was taught to never piece your border stirps together on an angle. This allows the fabric to stretch which you don't want in the borders. Piecing the border strips with a straight seam gives it more stability (no stretching). I just thought I would share. Keep the videos coming. I love what you do.
I an angled cut is the standard for joining binding strips, and it don't notice any stretch in that. An angled seam in the border does a nice job in making the seam less noticeable. Again, I've not had issues with stretching, and prefer the finished look. Also, many advocate cutting border on the lengthwise grain (parallel to selvedge), and that certainly gives no stretch at all.
I have read that cutting border strips on tbe lengthwise grain, not only yeilds less joining, but reduces the "wave" in your borders. Lots of good tips! Thanks!
Thank you - just about to embark on unpicking one of the borders because it is not playing nicely. Back to the drawing board and out with the tape measure - thankfully it is too long and not too short!
Border length, I add up the size of the blocks plus sashing. For example five 8” finished block is 8”x5=40” plus 2” sashing on 4 rows is 2”x4=8. My first border length will be 48” + .5” seam allowance for the quarter inch on each end. It always works for me because I’ve trimmed my blocks to the size they’re supposed to be.
It sounds like it should be a good idea but when you do that the border strips can stretch or the top can and you can get wavy borders when doing this. You think it will work but in the end, it doesn't give you as nice a border as measuring will.
There really is not a magic ratio. I did a video last year called On-Point Piecing & Borders - Tips & Tricks from the Tucker Team. In there I cover a bit about deciding on how wide you might want the borders. It is all about determining what looks best with what you have and many times it takes just laying out the quilt with the fabric to see what you like for sizing.
I know this is an older video but I don't understand why instructors recommend to piece borders on the diagonal. Sometimes the bias helps hide the seam but most of the time, as a longarmer, I find that it is an area of fullness because so many piecers stretch seam. The 45° seam is necessary in the binding but not the borders.
There are times when a 45-degree seam helps to hide the piecing of border strips in busy fabrics. I will determine which I like best for which fabric, a straight seam or diagonal seam. But what I find helps keep this from being full is pressing the seam open. Different methods work for different quilters and it is just finding what works for you.
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Ich danke dir für die Tipps und Tricks, ich verstehe zwar nicht alles, aber du erklärst das so toll, dass ich es auch ohne viele Worte verstehe. Weiter so, ich freue mich auf die nächsten Videos 👏👏👏
This is probably the best tutorial that I have watched about measuring for and attaching borders and I have watched MANY. THANK you for sharing your vast knowledge!
Thanks for the border tips. I was taught to never piece your border stirps together on an angle. This allows the fabric to stretch which you don't want in the borders. Piecing the border strips with a straight seam gives it more stability (no stretching). I just thought I would share. Keep the videos coming. I love what you do.
I an angled cut is the standard for joining binding strips, and it don't notice any stretch in that. An angled seam in the border does a nice job in making the seam less noticeable. Again, I've not had issues with stretching, and prefer the finished look. Also, many advocate cutting border on the lengthwise grain (parallel to selvedge), and that certainly gives no stretch at all.
A steel tape is a must have in the sewing room. We are, after all, fabric carpenters!
I have read that cutting border strips on tbe lengthwise grain, not only yeilds less joining, but reduces the "wave" in your borders. Lots of good tips! Thanks!
Yes! ❤ love it! As a Longarmer I will refer some of my clients to your tools and your videos! Fantastic explanations always! Thanks 😁
Thank you so much for sharing the videos, I really appreciate it.
Love your tips and tricks videos
Good information! Thank you!
Thank you - just about to embark on unpicking one of the borders because it is not playing nicely. Back to the drawing board and out with the tape measure - thankfully it is too long and not too short!
Thank you very much.
Terrific video. Thank you.
Thank you ♥️
Hi! Your profile picture is very cute! I Just decided to stop by and say hi. I hope my compliment is appreciated...
Thank you very much ♥️
Border length, I add up the size of the blocks plus sashing. For example five 8” finished block is 8”x5=40” plus 2” sashing on 4 rows is 2”x4=8. My first border length will be 48” + .5” seam allowance for the quarter inch on each end. It always works for me because I’ve trimmed my blocks to the size they’re supposed to be.
There are many ways to find your border length, and each person will find what works for them. What you are doing is a great way to do this.
any reason not to cut the border strips a little bit longer than needed and trim after sewing them on the top?
It sounds like it should be a good idea but when you do that the border strips can stretch or the top can and you can get wavy borders when doing this. You think it will work but in the end, it doesn't give you as nice a border as measuring will.
i appreciate the good advice. My question is how to determine what width borders to use? Is there a magic ratio? Thanks Diana
There really is not a magic ratio. I did a video last year called On-Point Piecing & Borders - Tips & Tricks from the Tucker Team. In there I cover a bit about deciding on how wide you might want the borders. It is all about determining what looks best with what you have and many times it takes just laying out the quilt with the fabric to see what you like for sizing.
I know this is an older video but I don't understand why instructors recommend to piece borders on the diagonal. Sometimes the bias helps hide the seam but most of the time, as a longarmer, I find that it is an area of fullness because so many piecers stretch seam. The 45° seam is necessary in the binding but not the borders.
There are times when a 45-degree seam helps to hide the piecing of border strips in busy fabrics. I will determine which I like best for which fabric, a straight seam or diagonal seam. But what I find helps keep this from being full is pressing the seam open. Different methods work for different quilters and it is just finding what works for you.