Cool video, thanks, you should get a large C clamp like I have. Forget the screwdriver, use the clamp and it's done in seconds I also just use the old brake pad instead of a wood block. When I remove the caliper I pull the outer pad stick the C clamp on the old one and push it back then remove the old one and it's ready to go.
I always use a large C-clamp to compress the pistons before I ever turn a single bolt. Was taught that way in high school auto shop, which I bet few if any high schools even have anymore. 😬 Works great! I've had the same shuddering on mine for a couple years now, finally replacing the rotors.
Word of advice to anyone just did mine and realized to get at those 22 bolts with a breaker bar to make it easy is to turn the wheels outwards. Made it quick and easy with enough space to get leverage needed. But this video still helped me get the process and steps down pact 🙌
Awesome comment there Corey. Yah, if you have the whole front supported that would be much easier. Or just turn the wheel before starting the process I suppose, just don't ever turn the wheel while you are on jackstands if that twisting could cause you to loose your support!
Thank you so much for the tutorial, Dan! After replacing the front rotors, I resolved the same pulsating brake issue as you did. One thing I want to emphasize is that the rust building up behind the rotors on the wheel hub sometimes could be the the pulsating brake feeling. You also mentioned this in your video. So, I made sure to sand off any rust on that wheel hub before I put the new rotors on. Wire brush should work, too.
Very well prepared and edited video. I appreciate how you just stick to the topic - efficient. I like your use of a jack stand to support the caliper. I've done quite a few brake jobs and fumbled around with means to support the caliper. I used your jack stand method today. Works great, thank you. I probably wouldn't have caught on to the tapped hole for forcing off the old rotor, thanks again; however, the required bolt is an M8 (8mm metric) not 1/4-20. Last point, it would be good to point out to folks that it's best to suck brake fluid out of the reservoir before pushing back the pistons to avoid risk of spilling out fluid. Thanks for taking the time to produce an excellent technical instruction.
Good vid Couple three suggestions Black nitrile gloves Jacked both sides to turn the wheel makes access to bolts easier Spray bottle with white vinegar before removing to remove rust, then hose off I use a big pair of channel locks, pressing old pad against the pistons And hang the caliper with a bungee cord
What I did Turn wheel facing me Compress pistons using old brake pad with channel locks Assemble pads in place on carrier and then slide the caliper over them - makes a 30 minute job done in 15 😉
Brake squeal can be stopped by using the brake grease on the back of the pad to prevent vibration. I’d give that a try first. If you already have done there, you can try applying a bit more. Also be sure to put some between the shim and the Mount.
Looking at the field service manual, the bolt with the flats on it goes in the 'bottom' position (trailing edge). Apparently it "helps" reduce noise as well as proper sliding action. You could wear the pads out quicker if it's in the wrong position. I may not take things apart just to check that but maybe next time you rotate the tires you could check it.
Thank you so much for making this video I had the same issue with my car and watching the video made it real easy replacing my brakes and rotors. that's what's up
You might need to grab the inside of the sliding bolt. Pull back on the rubber boot to expose the inside 'nut' part of the pin. There should be a facet you can grab with a wrench while you turn the outside bolt.
Agreed! I put a proper tool in the description. And for sure make sure you don't flood the engine area with extra fluid, especially if you do all four brakes!
Kevin, I added a set of links in the description to the pads/rotors for the front. Just remember to confirm that these work for your particular G37. Base/sport RWD/AWD, these all change the required parts. I didn't want noise from the drilled / slotted brakes as I'm told that is what you get from those, but I have never lived with them. If you are not racing, there is no real need...
Great video. I watched your Honda Fit condenser replacement video, also a great video. I found it funny cause I too have a G37 sedan and my wife has a Honda Fit. 😂
My G37 was used, her fit was brand new....it’s starting to show its age though, Ive replaced the entire front suspension, and now replaced the compressor and condenser.
He's just compressing the caliper back in. He puts the block up against the caliper pistons - so to speak - to protect them but to also give himself more leverage with the screwdriver. Think about it.... as your brakes are used the caliper slowly draws out to push your wearing down pads into the rotor. Well, if you put newer and as a result, fatter pads on the caliper pistons will need to be pushed back fully into the caliper assembly. As for the screwdriver method he used.... ingenious..... never seen that before. I myself opt for the whopping $8-9 brake pad spreader you can find on amazon. Works excellently and much easier.... and faster than using a screwdriver an itty bitty block of wood. I am always a proponent of working smarter not harder. Sure, you can use this screwdriver method - or use a small C-clamp (a method I've seen others use) if you have those things AND an itty bitty block of wood lying around.... I guess with the C-Clamp you can just use the brake pad you're replacing though.... to save money. But when the money you're saving is just a 10 dollar bill..... is it really worth it? IMO.... no. If this handy tool was more like $30..... $40 or more dollars, I guess I can see cheaping out and using any jerry rigged method to push the calipers back in. But again, we're talking about a $9-10 tool here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCT1XMI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2ZSTDEXO9VTZF&psc=1
RzVids you likely have the ‘S’ version with nicer calipers. All the same steps as mine, but perhaps more cylinders to compress. I definitely recommend getting the brake compression tool I show in the video description to make compressing the calipers back much easier.
Dan Holt I was talking about the rotors and brake pads you installed from amazon (you posted the link) are they reliable ? How many miles did you do with them so far ?
Ok, gotcha, I don’t have a great answer because I sold the car before they wore out. I didn’t have any warping problems and the brakes were still good at 20k miles or so.
You need to force the caliper back up inside the housing. As the pads wear, they get thinner, so when putting on new pads, you have to retract the caliper more than a 1cm for the new pads to fit on the rotor.
My car makes a low squeaking noise when driving at low speeds (10-20 mph). Could this be the backing plate touching against the rotor? My rotors and pads are new. 2013 g37x
You only have to bleed the brakes if you crack open the bleeder valve or remove the caliper for replacement. As long as the system is closed you should be fine.
Nice video but the clip on the pad should go bottom-inside. Inside pads wear faster than the outside pads because the caliper cylinder push the inside pad. Resurfaced rotor will be better than unbranded cheap rotor for safety.
If you haven't replaced the pads, then that is the sound of the 'squealer' which tells you to replace the pads before you are metal on metal. If you already did replace them, the it is likely because you didn't apply the brake grease to the back of the brake pad.
Please next time you shouldn’t hav your kids near by making all that noise unfortunately it’s annoying trying to hear you explain and all you hear is kids listen I understand stand your home but you can tell them to play elsewhere
Great vid. Tip** on front wheels, always turn wheel towards you, then you have full view and easier access to caliper and bracket bolts.
Cool video, thanks, you should get a large C clamp like I have. Forget the screwdriver, use the clamp and it's done in seconds I also just use the old brake pad instead of a wood block. When I remove the caliper I pull the outer pad stick the C clamp on the old one and push it back then remove the old one and it's ready to go.
I like the approach. I'll definitely try that next time!
Oops beat me to it. Definitely easier that the method show here, which looks like a pita. No offense meant.
⚠️ Does anyone know if the 2014 - 2019 sport rotors and breaks fit on my 2011 g37s ????? Plz help??
Just learned that trick this week with the C clamp amazing time saver!
I always use a large C-clamp to compress the pistons before I ever turn a single bolt. Was taught that way in high school auto shop, which I bet few if any high schools even have anymore. 😬 Works great!
I've had the same shuddering on mine for a couple years now, finally replacing the rotors.
Word of advice to anyone just did mine and realized to get at those 22 bolts with a breaker bar to make it easy is to turn the wheels outwards. Made it quick and easy with enough space to get leverage needed. But this video still helped me get the process and steps down pact 🙌
Awesome comment there Corey. Yah, if you have the whole front supported that would be much easier. Or just turn the wheel before starting the process I suppose, just don't ever turn the wheel while you are on jackstands if that twisting could cause you to loose your support!
Yeah I usually turn my wheels too.
Thank you so much for the tutorial, Dan! After replacing the front rotors, I resolved the same pulsating brake issue as you did. One thing I want to emphasize is that the rust building up behind the rotors on the wheel hub sometimes could be the the pulsating brake feeling. You also mentioned this in your video. So, I made sure to sand off any rust on that wheel hub before I put the new rotors on. Wire brush should work, too.
Very good point! It should be ground flat and smooth if not already. Thanks for pointing this out.
Very well prepared and edited video. I appreciate how you just stick to the topic - efficient. I like your use of a jack stand to support the caliper. I've done quite a few brake jobs and fumbled around with means to support the caliper. I used your jack stand method today. Works great, thank you. I probably wouldn't have caught on to the tapped hole for forcing off the old rotor, thanks again; however, the required bolt is an M8 (8mm metric) not 1/4-20. Last point, it would be good to point out to folks that it's best to suck brake fluid out of the reservoir before pushing back the pistons to avoid risk of spilling out fluid. Thanks for taking the time to produce an excellent technical instruction.
A metal wire coat hanger also works.
I couldn’t find the M8 8mm bolt. 5/16” bolt works too
Good vid
Couple three suggestions
Black nitrile gloves
Jacked both sides to turn the wheel makes access to bolts easier
Spray bottle with white vinegar before removing to remove rust, then hose off
I use a big pair of channel locks, pressing old pad against the pistons
And hang the caliper with a bungee cord
What I did
Turn wheel facing me
Compress pistons using old brake pad with channel locks
Assemble pads in place on carrier and then slide the caliper over them - makes a 30 minute job done in 15
😉
Followed the steps, all good. Thanks for the video. Now have a brake squeal at almost zero speeds.
Brake squeal can be stopped by using the brake grease on the back of the pad to prevent vibration. I’d give that a try first. If you already have done there, you can try applying a bit more. Also be sure to put some between the shim and the Mount.
Looking at the field service manual, the bolt with the flats on it goes in the 'bottom' position (trailing edge). Apparently it "helps" reduce noise as well as proper sliding action. You could wear the pads out quicker if it's in the wrong position. I may not take things apart just to check that but maybe next time you rotate the tires you could check it.
Hall Stevenson thanks for the info and update! I’ll definitely check.
Which bolts are you talking about exactly? Thanks
Good video on the front and rears! I'll be doing my rears this weekend, and saving money too, thank you!
Thank you so much for making this video I had the same issue with my car and watching the video made it real easy replacing my brakes and rotors. that's what's up
I had the same problem with my g37 sedan until I bought frozen rotors . Twice as expensive but well worth it.
I cannot get my back bolts off from the ground 😢
Wow, what a pain! Be sure you are turning the right way! I legitimately tried for a while before I realized I was going the wrong way… 😅
Nice job, i thought it much harder, but now ill do it by myself.
I didnt put the clips in the pads. Every time I hit a bump they would rattle. Thank you for saving me the embarrassment hahaha
awesome video and well explained even down to the little things.
Thanks, let us know how it turns out for you!
Best video for this purpose.
I can’t remove the bolt at 2:50 because it just spins with the inside of the rotor so you have any tips to help get it loose?
You might need to grab the inside of the sliding bolt. Pull back on the rubber boot to expose the inside 'nut' part of the pin. There should be a facet you can grab with a wrench while you turn the outside bolt.
A C-clamp with that block of wood would be helpful. Also, take some fluid out before you start to prevent the mess.
Agreed! I put a proper tool in the description. And for sure make sure you don't flood the engine area with extra fluid, especially if you do all four brakes!
Try power stop z26 street warriors carbon fiber drilled and slotted rotor kit, I use to have the same problem with my g37x.
Thanks for the suggestion. Looks like you are talking about these right? amzn.to/3DgZLrh
Fantastic video. Thanks Dan!
Very well make video - thank you for putting this together!
What brand of pads and rotors would you recommend? Thanks for the video.
Kevin, I added a set of links in the description to the pads/rotors for the front. Just remember to confirm that these work for your particular G37. Base/sport RWD/AWD, these all change the required parts. I didn't want noise from the drilled / slotted brakes as I'm told that is what you get from those, but I have never lived with them. If you are not racing, there is no real need...
@@DansWay Thanks
You can use a C- clamp to push the boots back in
Agreed! or you can get a tool specific for the job: amzn.to/2lcXCux
Great video. I watched your Honda Fit condenser replacement video, also a great video. I found it funny cause I too have a G37 sedan and my wife has a Honda Fit. 😂
chad jeremiah, too funny! Are they both by chance salvage title cars like ours?
My G37 was used, her fit was brand new....it’s starting to show its age though, Ive replaced the entire front suspension, and now replaced the compressor and condenser.
The part with wooden block im confused? Much appreciate the help
He's just compressing the caliper back in. He puts the block up against the caliper pistons - so to speak - to protect them but to also give himself more leverage with the screwdriver. Think about it.... as your brakes are used the caliper slowly draws out to push your wearing down pads into the rotor. Well, if you put newer and as a result, fatter pads on the caliper pistons will need to be pushed back fully into the caliper assembly.
As for the screwdriver method he used.... ingenious..... never seen that before. I myself opt for the whopping $8-9 brake pad spreader you can find on amazon. Works excellently and much easier.... and faster than using a screwdriver an itty bitty block of wood. I am always a proponent of working smarter not harder. Sure, you can use this screwdriver method - or use a small C-clamp (a method I've seen others use) if you have those things AND an itty bitty block of wood lying around.... I guess with the C-Clamp you can just use the brake pad you're replacing though.... to save money. But when the money you're saving is just a 10 dollar bill..... is it really worth it? IMO.... no. If this handy tool was more like $30..... $40 or more dollars, I guess I can see cheaping out and using any jerry rigged method to push the calipers back in. But again, we're talking about a $9-10 tool here.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCT1XMI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2ZSTDEXO9VTZF&psc=1
My brakes look nothing like that. It has a big shiny silver caliper that says Infiniti on it?
RzVids you likely have the ‘S’ version with nicer calipers. All the same steps as mine, but perhaps more cylinders to compress. I definitely recommend getting the brake compression tool I show in the video description to make compressing the calipers back much easier.
Really good explanation video. Just a question : is it a reliable system ? how many miles did you make with this set up ?
Aure Lien what about the setup are you questioning? I’m not sure I understand.
Dan Holt I was talking about the rotors and brake pads you installed from amazon (you posted the link) are they reliable ? How many miles did you do with them so far ?
Ok, gotcha, I don’t have a great answer because I sold the car before they wore out. I didn’t have any warping problems and the brakes were still good at 20k miles or so.
Just turn the wheel to get more easy access .
What size rotors for the front ? 255 ?
Great tips. Thanks for video.
Great Video!
No bleed?
11:00: At this moment you can turn that inner part of a caliber all the way up (clockwise), and it will sit there.
When taking caliper off and adding the pads do you have to apply some type pressure before adding it back to vehicle?
You need to force the caliper back up inside the housing. As the pads wear, they get thinner, so when putting on new pads, you have to retract the caliper more than a 1cm for the new pads to fit on the rotor.
@@DansWay Did it successfully with c clamp thanks
My car makes a low squeaking noise when driving at low speeds (10-20 mph). Could this be the backing plate touching against the rotor? My rotors and pads are new. 2013 g37x
SN00Ki _ I sort of doubt it. Wouldn’t be a low frequency noise IMO. It would be there at all speeds and change sound at different speeds too.
@@DansWay idk what it could be? I changed my rotors a year ago from today but dunno if warped rotors could be the culprit.
Could be warped rotors. Does the noise go away if you lightly apply the brakes at those speeds? If so then it could be that I suppose.
It could be rust building up behind the rotor, and now your rotor is tilted in an angle touching one of the brake pads
I got 2 fat bolts on the caliper
I've replaced the front rotors and pads.. now for some reason my rear brakes are grinding now
Do I have to bleed the fluid?
You only have to bleed the brakes if you crack open the bleeder valve or remove the caliper for replacement. As long as the system is closed you should be fine.
Thanks, forgot how the clips went into the sensor!
Good job!
@05:11 May I ask what the spec of the bolt that you used for removing the rusty rotor?
I think it was a 1/4 x 20 bolt. Anyone else know for sure?
@@DansWay I really need to know this as well. I can not find this info anywhere!
Bare knees on concrete ouch lol
Well done
My brake pads didn't come with clips. Can I use the old ones?
mustangs07083 , I would think so, just clean them up and be sure to apply grease to the area where the brake-pad touches them.
Use a C-clamp to close the pistons.
Agreed, or get the simple compression tool. Much safer approach that what I show!
If that caliper is fine then it can be pushed even with bare hands. It'll move very slowly, but it will.
I just broke my breaker bar trying to get those 22mm off
Wow, seriously! sure you are turning the right way? 😅 Time for a 1/2" drive!
@@DansWay surprisingly I was going in the correct direction haha I definitely questioned myself once I saw it snap
I broke the slider pin on mine, and decided to get the akebono calipers from the G37 forum lol
Get some C-clamps bro!
Yep, got that now! I put a link in the description to a simple tool that works even better...
Nice video but the clip on the pad should go bottom-inside. Inside pads wear faster than the outside pads because the caliper cylinder push the inside pad. Resurfaced rotor will be better than unbranded cheap rotor for safety.
With properly working sliding pins neither side should be wearing appreciably faster than the other.
The skyline version cones way better specs
Dude you need a G clamp bad lol
Mine goes eererereeeeeeerrrrrreeeee
If you haven't replaced the pads, then that is the sound of the 'squealer' which tells you to replace the pads before you are metal on metal. If you already did replace them, the it is likely because you didn't apply the brake grease to the back of the brake pad.
@@DansWay will be redoing break pads to see that if that helps🤝
Please next time you shouldn’t hav your kids near by making all that noise unfortunately it’s annoying trying to hear you explain and all you hear is kids listen I understand stand your home but you can tell them to play elsewhere