Did you tried 24v power source? I'm interested with this module to charge my laptop (90W) and the website tells shows that 24v 150W was the ideal input for 100W.
yep tried the whole voltage range using benchtop power supply and every battery series combination up to a low level charge 7S. I'm telling you don't waste your money on anything SW2303/PL5501. The issue might specifically be the PL5501 and/or the mosfet selection but it seems like the buck boost converter can't handle more than 3A. IP2368 Pro is the IMO amazing. Simple yet has some adjustability. And it works like a tank even if its not in the its aluminum housing. Can be found for as cheap as $20 www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804080878539.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.2e2c2f24BttwCL&algo_pvid=7e485d38-674b-42f3-afde-531a7ab4e2de&algo_exp_id=7e485d38-674b-42f3-afde-531a7ab4e2de-3&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%2140.8%2120.4%21%21%21%21%21%40211be72e16854657155101375d079b%2112000033705304831%21sea%21US%213589144974&curPageLogUid=gUEJtBuj9LwZ Don't get me wrong the 120W bidirectional board with the SC8812A is great as well but isn't as flexible. Apparently IP5389 functions well but the TZT board I had was shit and died on me. I never got it past 60W but it might have been TZT claiming I could use 16AWG wire (resistance is a BIG deal with these high power boards, keep the wire length as short as possible.)
For a 24V supply, use a SW3518 module, which is Buck only. You can buy them bare PCB for about USD $5 or can buy in a metal case like XY-PDS100. The larger the voltage differential, the more heat, so they are best used with 24V supply for 20V output, or a lower input for lower voltage outputs (at full current)
Okay, I take back what I said about them being trash; just finicky. They don't seem to like a "soft" power-up where the voltage slowly increases from zero. They power-up much better when you do a "hard" start by flipping a switch. I've also noticed that a higher quality type-c cable tends to make it more steady when connecting and disconnecting devices; it may even help with start up too, i'm still experimenting with mine
I'm using extremely short (1 foot) USB C cables that I consider to be good quality as they work great on my other modules and have very little voltage drop under load. Not sure what could be more of a hard start than hitting the "on" button on my electronic load while its set for 3.4A in the 20V PDO. It just flops and fails if I do that. If I slowly ramp up the current I have more luck getting to 60W. This to me indicates the problem might be heat related because once it shuts down it needs quite a bit of time to cool down otherwise I can only pull a very small load from it directly after it shuts off.
Hi I ordered one from Aliexpress. I plugged in a 19.5V laptop power supply, which I also use for my soldering station. It went out almost immediately, I don't know what the problem was. Polarity was fine. It's supposed to be powered between 3-24 volts, I don't understand why it smoked.
Did a component on the board fry? What gave you an indication that it went out besides the lack of any LED's? Try powering the board with 12V if you can, it will actually work with any voltage down to 5V but won't output much since it is limited to I think 5V 3A
They also don't operate down to the advertised voltage of 3V. They hardly operate when running at 9V input, and only become reliable for me when at 12V input.
I just got the 4 channel SW3518S in. It does seem to be the 100W PD version of the SW3516. I believe the 18S also offers VOOC whereas the 16 doesn't. I was able to trigger the 20V protocol as low as 20.1V but the voltage available then was kind of low. Looks like a 20.5V input is the lowest you would want. I have not tested that under load yet. I'll put a short video out. Anything else you want me to test? I'm going to try loading up the module with as much power as possible. I have an HP Server power supply that can provide 24V 30A. Technically I need about 24V 16A for 400W but I might not be able to find devices that can do that. I have two electronic loads that can do 100W, although one can only do it for short periods
tks a lot, in my country the sellers only say 18 and 16 versions but not sure it's 18s, even the sellers don't know if it's 18 or 18s. however I see pictures some places are 3518s. t's intention is to use pack 6s to ensure pd activation, t just need a peak pd system of 100w but not frequently at 100w, mainly from 60 to 85w. Can you tell me more about the temperature of the sw3518s module under heavy load, I see the components are quite close together, of course I intend to increase the dissipation with the thermal pad
@@leaaron9901 All of these modules are going to get quite warm at full load. Once you get under 65W they get down to temperatures I would call "normal" like 40 Celsius. At 100W you'll easily see 55+ Celsius on some parts of the board. I'd suggest buying copper heatsinks (8x8mm) and installing them on the main IC's and any mosfets.
@@leaaron9901 - The SW3518 is discontinued. All these modules use either SW3516 or SW3518S now. The sellers will not know, and the photos they use is usually very old. There is no point buying the 3516, as it only a few cents cheaper.
I've now tested all the major ones. I mostly use Feb 22 Store as my guide for whats available but there are some other boards out there but they often use the IP2368 or IP5389 which are two of the offerings from Feb 22 Store. So far only the 120W board with the SC8812A chip from Feb 22 Store and the IP2368 boards (lots of different PCB designs out there) have met their specs. IP5389 was a failure but I used a board from TZT Store so I can't say for certain that other boards using that chip will fail to output 100W. This was one of the best prices I found on the IP2368 Mini or Pro as its known. Quite small www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804060751451.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.21ef1802cX0NBN&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
I should say those are the only buck boost boards able to boost a 4S pack to 20V and provide a 5A output. There are plenty of buck only boards like the SW3518S (not the SW3518 or SW3516) that can output 100W. A buck board would require you have a 7S pack to stay above 20V for the entire voltage range and that's quite large.
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Did you tried 24v power source? I'm interested with this module to charge my laptop (90W) and the website tells shows that 24v 150W was the ideal input for 100W.
yep tried the whole voltage range using benchtop power supply and every battery series combination up to a low level charge 7S.
I'm telling you don't waste your money on anything SW2303/PL5501. The issue might specifically be the PL5501 and/or the mosfet selection but it seems like the buck boost converter can't handle more than 3A.
IP2368 Pro is the IMO amazing. Simple yet has some adjustability. And it works like a tank even if its not in the its aluminum housing. Can be found for as cheap as $20
www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804080878539.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.7.2e2c2f24BttwCL&algo_pvid=7e485d38-674b-42f3-afde-531a7ab4e2de&algo_exp_id=7e485d38-674b-42f3-afde-531a7ab4e2de-3&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%2140.8%2120.4%21%21%21%21%21%40211be72e16854657155101375d079b%2112000033705304831%21sea%21US%213589144974&curPageLogUid=gUEJtBuj9LwZ
Don't get me wrong the 120W bidirectional board with the SC8812A is great as well but isn't as flexible. Apparently IP5389 functions well but the TZT board I had was shit and died on me. I never got it past 60W but it might have been TZT claiming I could use 16AWG wire (resistance is a BIG deal with these high power boards, keep the wire length as short as possible.)
For a 24V supply, use a SW3518 module, which is Buck only. You can buy them bare PCB for about USD $5 or can buy in a metal case like XY-PDS100. The larger the voltage differential, the more heat, so they are best used with 24V supply for 20V output, or a lower input for lower voltage outputs (at full current)
Okay, I take back what I said about them being trash; just finicky. They don't seem to like a "soft" power-up where the voltage slowly increases from zero. They power-up much better when you do a "hard" start by flipping a switch. I've also noticed that a higher quality type-c cable tends to make it more steady when connecting and disconnecting devices; it may even help with start up too, i'm still experimenting with mine
I'm using extremely short (1 foot) USB C cables that I consider to be good quality as they work great on my other modules and have very little voltage drop under load.
Not sure what could be more of a hard start than hitting the "on" button on my electronic load while its set for 3.4A in the 20V PDO. It just flops and fails if I do that. If I slowly ramp up the current I have more luck getting to 60W. This to me indicates the problem might be heat related because once it shuts down it needs quite a bit of time to cool down otherwise I can only pull a very small load from it directly after it shuts off.
Hi
I ordered one from Aliexpress. I plugged in a 19.5V laptop power supply, which I also use for my soldering station. It went out almost immediately, I don't know what the problem was. Polarity was fine. It's supposed to be powered between 3-24 volts, I don't understand why it smoked.
Did a component on the board fry? What gave you an indication that it went out besides the lack of any LED's? Try powering the board with 12V if you can, it will actually work with any voltage down to 5V but won't output much since it is limited to I think 5V 3A
They also don't operate down to the advertised voltage of 3V. They hardly operate when running at 9V input, and only become reliable for me when at 12V input.
Could u test with buck module sw3518s pls
I just got the 4 channel SW3518S in. It does seem to be the 100W PD version of the SW3516. I believe the 18S also offers VOOC whereas the 16 doesn't.
I was able to trigger the 20V protocol as low as 20.1V but the voltage available then was kind of low. Looks like a 20.5V input is the lowest you would want. I have not tested that under load yet.
I'll put a short video out. Anything else you want me to test? I'm going to try loading up the module with as much power as possible. I have an HP Server power supply that can provide 24V 30A. Technically I need about 24V 16A for 400W but I might not be able to find devices that can do that. I have two electronic loads that can do 100W, although one can only do it for short periods
tks a lot, in my country the sellers only say 18 and 16 versions but not sure it's 18s, even the sellers don't know if it's 18 or 18s. however I see pictures some places are 3518s. t's intention is to use pack 6s to ensure pd activation, t just need a peak pd system of 100w but not frequently at 100w, mainly from 60 to 85w. Can you tell me more about the temperature of the sw3518s module under heavy load, I see the components are quite close together, of course I intend to increase the dissipation with the thermal pad
@@leaaron9901 All of these modules are going to get quite warm at full load. Once you get under 65W they get down to temperatures I would call "normal" like 40 Celsius. At 100W you'll easily see 55+ Celsius on some parts of the board. I'd suggest buying copper heatsinks (8x8mm) and installing them on the main IC's and any mosfets.
@@leaaron9901 - The SW3518 is discontinued. All these modules use either SW3516 or SW3518S now. The sellers will not know, and the photos they use is usually very old. There is no point buying the 3516, as it only a few cents cheaper.
hi, do you know if there are any boards on ali that can provide 100w output? searching for my custom laptop powerbank, want to power my macbook pro.
I've now tested all the major ones. I mostly use Feb 22 Store as my guide for whats available but there are some other boards out there but they often use the IP2368 or IP5389 which are two of the offerings from Feb 22 Store.
So far only the 120W board with the SC8812A chip from Feb 22 Store and the IP2368 boards (lots of different PCB designs out there) have met their specs. IP5389 was a failure but I used a board from TZT Store so I can't say for certain that other boards using that chip will fail to output 100W.
This was one of the best prices I found on the IP2368 Mini or Pro as its known. Quite small
www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804060751451.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.11.21ef1802cX0NBN&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US
I should say those are the only buck boost boards able to boost a 4S pack to 20V and provide a 5A output. There are plenty of buck only boards like the SW3518S (not the SW3518 or SW3516) that can output 100W.
A buck board would require you have a 7S pack to stay above 20V for the entire voltage range and that's quite large.
@@ericklein5097 can I hook up a dc power supply to the IP2368 100w board and charge my phone or laptop?
Ya sir keep upload video and more fake modul clem 🔥🔥
fake module clem? Do you mean claim?
@@ericklein5097 yes sir im not good English language .many modules sold do not match the specifications displayed in the store
Again one of those useless videos