Shepperd November were not rich so we do what we can, go away and lube up good for your next visit to your mechanic, I hear it helps with the pain u dummy
Skye Iorfida I usually don't have to visit a mechanic. I AM a retired mechanic (due to several injuries) now selling Auto Parts and handing out repair advice. And I understand that sometimes we get into financial difficulties. I have a few times in my life to be sure. But it's difficult for me to have sympathy for someone who claims they have no money when they are covered in tattoos and Jewelry and have a car with 22 inch rims, a Boom!-Boom! stereo, a bowling ball paint job, a neon light kit, and is blowing blue smoke while going down the road! Or single mothers driving an old POS of a car with eight kids in the backseat EACH of them with a different last name! And most of these are people who are either smoking and /or drinking a beer while going down the road! Funny they have no money to maintain their cars but they have money for beer, cigarettes, tattoos, and piercings! Just sayin '.
This here is what a real mechanic should be like: optimizes for the car's worth, practicality, and the cost of repair. Unlike all those replace-it-all experts out there.
You sir are a true mechanic in my humble opinion!...your a dyeing breed amongst a slew of what I call certified parts changers!!...is this the best (correct) way ....of course not!...but you took your knowledge and fixed it the best way for the customers budget !!...any other so called mechanic would have simply told the customer he was s hit out of luck!...but you went the extra mile!...and you know what ,it wouldn't surprise me if the customer got another 30000 miles out of it and had a great story for you to tell as well as the owner!...good job sir and kudos !!
Retired at 49 I agree with you. I went to automotive school myself and didn’t like it much because dealerships only want to screw customers. Many places would do a cheap simple fix like this and charge a person thousands of dollars for a $50 buck fix.
Hey... This is the Old Skool way... We should give props to the first one to advertise saving money this way and for giving us this bullet to shoot at some of these flakey problems! This is the link right here: www.google.com/search?safe=active&client=ms-android-mpcs-us-revc&biw=360&bih=616&tbm=vid&sxsrf=ALeKk03agQJIdwVktiHbY6Nb1P5jLD7AxQ%3A1590276156265&ei=PLDJXuvaD8fl_QbSoYnAAQ&q=ol+skool+mechanic+rod+knock+RUclips&oq=ol+skool+mechanic+rod+knock+RUclips&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.3...25593.35041.0.35460.17.15.0.0.0.0.223.1922.1j10j2.13.0....0...1c.1j4.64.mobile-gws-serp..5.3.595...33i10k1j30i10k1.0.6JlWO3lDFTY#
You did someone good. Old time shops did this type of work. In fact, in the 40’s and just before and after that time frame, this was not very unusual. I knew a guy who poured his own babbit on giant shrimp boat winches. Cool stuff, glad to see young guys fixing things
There was a time when hand-polishing crankpins and hand-fitting the older white-metal bearing metal poured directly into the rod end halves was more common. Given those old engines did not have filters or had by-pass filters at best, they lasted quite well. Modern engines work very hard. Older tech engines will extrude the bearing material very quickly when driven hard like a modern engine. Without much change in the size of loadbearing areas on the cranks compared to the old machinery, the fit and lubrication needs to be faultless. My biggest grief with some modern engines is a smaller oil capacity in the sump and they seem more inclined to fry off their oil. Some are designed to meet emissions standards by tight closure to stew in their own juice instead of venting fuel dilution of the oil. Boiled-off moisture recondenses when the engine cools down and does not depart. Quicker sludging of the oil is the outcome. Factory oil-change intervals may be a bit ambitious in some conditions. More frequent oil changes are probably good investment.
It may not be the proper way to repair the damage but you can't force a customer to spend what they don't have. At least they have wheels while they decide what to do.
But if the crank journal is not severely gouged or scraped you can do it, or you can use emery cloth too. Same thing with the engine deck and the head surface to true it up, But once you warp aluminum to a point where even a machine shop cannot true the heads or the engine deck well then its either time for the vehicle to go to vehicle heaven or if you have the money for a remanned short block, or long block by all means buy one, or go to the bone yard and hopefully that engine was never over heated or it does not have bottom end damage, cause on engines you only get a 20-30 day warranty, so the choice is up to you or your customer what they would like to do.
Jim Zivny . Would you say this particular engine would avoid this kind of damage using a high grade oil filter and frequent oil changes? Or is it a factory defect that it will happen regardless whatever you do
I have a 2012 Hyundai Tucson with 87,000 miles and apparent rod knock. It’s always been serviced at 5k miles & well taken care of. I was told I would have to swap the engine but you just gave me hope!
Cool repair repair video and thank you . I have a 97 Accord with a #1 rod knock and will be doing this project soon. Wish me luck and hope it’s easy as your repair.
I was a mechanic years ago. I think this is a great fix for someone on a budget to try themselves if they have the skill or if you as the mech are doing a favor for a close friend, my concern with doing it for a regular customer would be I’m guessing 300 -500 in labor cost with probably a 50/50 shot at giving them 6 months of driving, A smaller scale example my friend took her car to a shop for windshield wiper not working. The dx was bad ww motor , she okayed a new one. For I think 275 total. Took her to get it. Hey I saved you some money. I was able to repair the motor so you only owe 150. Great except the very next rainy day 1 week later. No wipers. He still wanted 275 to put a new one on. Now she would have been out 425 plus four times of missing a few hours work to pick up / drop off car .. the reason a lot of good mechanics won’t try something like this is to do so and be fair you would have to eat the cost if it didn’t work to some agreed upon level. Which doesn’t make sense to a mechanic trying to earn a living any more than paying close to half the cost to repair and it not running but 1 to 5 weeks. I mean it worked ok so far this time but obviously it was an unknown as to working at all and no clue as to longevity. Would your budget customer have been ok.. and was he informed in advance that the $350 ish repair may or may not work and may work for a day or years? Not fussing at you just making a point to the many comments about most mechanics being crooks for not offering this type of cheap fix. They are some legit reasons to be careful about this kinda stuff. Plus the customer that wants the cheap repair even when you tell him no guarantees and I don’t know how functional it will be if we do that. Are always the ones raising hell because the $50 fix didn’t give them the exact results that the $500 actual repair would have
Finally someone who I can understand while speaking. And what a great job on that car bro. Thanks for the information. I'm fixing a rod bearing on a 2005 freestar right now the same way.
I think this method makes perfect sense as long as your clearances are still within spec you don’t have any shavings circulating throughout the engine it should hold up the life of the engine. Patience is key and not over sanding the crankshaft because you only get one shot and it can get expensive.
I think it would be pretty hard to oversand the crankshaft by hand with a reasonable grit sandpaper because it's made of such hard steel. All you are really trying to do is remove the melted bearing material, which is relatively soft and easily sanded. From my experience, if the journal itself is gouged, sandpaper isn't going to do much.
I had this happen on my van, 1996 Pontiac transport, 3800 v6, I polished the rod journal like you did, cleaned everything up and put in a standard bearing with plasticguage and torqued the rod cap. Took it apart, measured my clearance, did some math to figure what undersized bearing I needed to get it in spec, got the bearing, put it together, and ran it another 20,000 miles with no issues until I traded it off on a new car. I got lucky. And I'm a professional ASE certified master auto tech, and since to replace this engine the cradle needs to come out the bottom with engine and trans attached, I thought I'd try this first. Luckily, it worked.
You can't really do this on modern engines anymore. They use a hardened coating on the crank bearing surfaces. You cannot machine most new cranks as the coating is only so thick. I'm surprised this worked as well as it did., but I doubt it's a permanent fix.
This guy is always putting up great content. I grew up around mechanics. And yes shops have a huge overhead. Many mechanics work on family and friends vehicles. They do things from hlme that their bosses or corporate policy do not allow. BeHumane as possible. Thumbs up
This trick worked this time, but what about the next time when it doesn't work or possibly later on with this same repair when it throws a rod? You never know if you are sanding the journal perfectly round, it could wind up being egg shaped enough that it beats the bearing out. Is the customer going to be understanding about the situation when they're stranded on the side of the road with a hole in the engine block?
he is a good mechanic but its mechanics like him who mess up the business for car dealers. the car junk and should be taken off the road, its a pollution hazard. that's why the economy is trash in shitty America. in japan once your car reaches 5 years its taken off the road and your ordered to buy a new one. they are keeping there country clean and they have surpassed the USA after the USA tried to murder them.
@@rickrick70 make my day .. wonderful comment ! please contact your nearest government office and tell them you're just the genius we all searching for ! ...
Rick Rick whyle eye undurstaned thqt typos are Moore commen nowdays with all this tiping and stuf, and the ottocorekt shuod Fix thise problums four you pleze don’t try two bee sew smart when comenting on uthur peeples wizdum. That said: So when your gov’t proclaims that you can’t have a car on the road for more than five years does that mean that they buy you a new car? What is done with the old one? Japan has a very finite amount of real estate. Do they just junk a car that a billion other people could maybe drive for another ten years? So there are several fundamental problems with this scenario, and I don’t think I even need to reference my Encyclopedia Brittanica for this one. It would be great if there was an organized data base where everyone on earth had access to an endless supply of information at your fingertips. Would be wouldn’t it? So they take away your right of ownership of personal real property. Not very democratic. They cost either the people or the gov’t an incredible amount of money in this process. Then, that waste has to be disposed of in a way to not negatively impact the natural resources of the home country. Then the automobile market gets to take advantage of these parameters and basically cheat at poker since now they don’t have to gamble. A warranty and/or insurance ARE literally gambling. Now that the manufacturers know exactly how long the car needs to last before another new is bought, they can play the system and win every time. As soon as uncertainty is eliminated, profits skyrocket. With that comes widespread corruption. So what you are claiming sounds pretty far fetched. And as far as air quality, Japan on the whole isn’t that bad, and Tokyo just has proximity to so many pollutants, yet downtown is ridiculous. China still is fighting pollution internally, with measured solutions. While they may continue to pollute on one front, that is designed to be a temporary fix while they upfit various facilities with the latest and greatest enhancements because believe it or not, THEY are the front runners in the climate change solution game. They noticed with their scale of change that some of these gross inefficiencies are already costing them easy money, but to yield to the forthright knowledge of the west is truly a cultural embarrassment. “Grab ‘em by the pussy”.
I just replaced number 1,2,3 on my wife’s Toyota Corolla. Space was too tight to do number 4. Only number 1 was spun but the others had some wear so didn’t hurt. Car is back up and running nice.
I've done this in several engine's, they all went over 100,000 miles and we're still running great when the people got rid of the vehicles.. doing it right now on a 2011 Traverse, I use belt sander sand paper and turn the engine over slowly by hand as I sand, found this video while looking for the specs for the Traverse so I can plastie gage it out.. I got stuck doing this one because to many people told the person I'm doing it for that it was junk, she shut it down as soon as she heard a noise.. good job.. oh, I found on this Traverse that the bearing that spun the cap was not milled right from the factory, there is .015 difference from one side to the other.. going to gage out and see what the Gap is before I grind cap, if it is in tolerance I won't grind
It's always good to know there are people like you that take time to use what they know to try and help someone like me. And don't ask a damn penny for it. You ever down in my part of Georgia look me up I know where some of the best hot wings and coldest beer is . My treat.
I did this on a Toyota Camry 2.2L 5SFE about a year ago and it is still running good. I used 400 grit to start, then 800, then 2500 to finish and the rod journal was as smooth as a machine shop would have done. It took me about a week (a little here, a little there) but, in the end: it turned out really good and MUCH cheaper than a machine shop. This car is a daily driver too.I wouldn't recommend doing it if the scratches are more than about .0005. You'll have to remove too much material to get it completely smooth. At .0005, the scratches can be felt with the tip of your finger nail, but the nail won't hang up in the scratch.I took the time to mich my rod journal and then ordered a bearing accordingly. Idiots that run their cars out of oil are cheap as shit when it comes to the repair options.For what it was, that was an awesome repair. I'm sure the owner pissed and moaned about the price of a proper repair.
Oil cooler line popped off of my dually. What luck. Currently replacing rod bearings and have come to the spun bearing. I think I will try the emory cloth method and see. 6.5 turbo diesel. Hopefully I am successful
Nice. I actually found my way to this video, looking to do the same repair. A couple of questions...did you do all four? How bad was your knock? And I've got it open, and ran into what looking like 12 point nuts on the caps. Just curious if yours had them too, and if that's what they are, before going out and throwing money at another set.
At least you offered the costumer a cheaper option. I went to a mechanic who told me I needed a whole new engine over a timing chain tensioner noise. My friend fixed the tensioner for me. It now has 228.000 miles and the engine is still good..
respect to you for trying and doing something to help a guy out on the cheep to help the guy get some money together .. Love good people like you so much respect for you
I am glad you posted this video. I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt 2.2lr engine with a rod knock I am going to try the same thing with it. I just replaced all of the timing chain gear kit and the balancers chain and gears which was masking the sound of the rod knock. I hope I can get by with about $50.00 in it.
Thanks for this info. I have the same issue but on a 3.8 GM and I was going to try the same thing and your video gives me hope that the same procedure will work for me. I plan on rebuilding the oil pump and adding lucas which I have used many times over the years and has saved engines and transmissions both for me. I just hope I am as successful as you.
Loop a long piece of emery cloth with duct tape behind it and then use a power drill with a sanding drum. That will quickly polish it to a mirror finish. I've done it one time and worked like a charm.
RasmanZ Rasman, I need your help. Could you please explain this another way so that I can understand what you are talking about. My daily driver minivan is needing this, and I have children and need to get this done. Thank you, Rasman!
Hey i am actually in the process of doing this to a gm v6 3800series2 and i have watch videos that arent as in depth as this one is and would be greatful to get some guidance on what you mean you have done to get a mirror finish
I've done this fix on my friends 1998 Tahoe that had also spun a bearing. I carefully sanded the rod journals until they were smooth and replaced all the bearings. So far my friend has put around 20,000 miles and the engine still runs great and the knocking sound hasn't returned. I think this fix is worth a shot if the rod journals aren't heavily damaged.
5w40 and 10w40 I havent or heard it being used since the early 90s. Newer cars now run 0w20 crazy thin oil. 10w40 used to be summer oil up by me and 10w30 winter oil back in the days when I was learning auto mechanics. Nowadays its a whole new world in auto repair.
actually modern engines have no better tolerances as the old engines, its the other way around!! agree, the modern oils they use are a lot thinner, but also have more dopes in it, the lesser tolerances have to do whit lesser feul consumption, to make the engine run easier, whit lesser friction... (no joke, its a fact.) y didnt believe it before y checked this out, has to do whit inviremental laws, and getting new engines pass for low nox and co2 polution and feul mileage....
Curious how long that lasted, there were still major scratches on that. Did that to an old school Celica once that looked about as bad and it lasted just over a week before the new bearing started knocking. Trick is, when you guys start hearing it tick, get in there and replace the bearing before it beats up the journals on the crank and then the cheap fix works.
If the crank is so rough it's habitually tearing up the bearings, that won't be a long term fix regardless of how often you change the bearings because all those metal shavings will destroy everything else as the contaminated oil runs through the engine. But can it get someone by temporarily until they can afford a proper fix? Maybe.
Good job man. You'd be amazed at how many cars are driving around with this done not half as Good! I'm willing to bet this car will run for thousands of more miles just fine. I had a 2011 Hyundai sonatas in the other day with 20k and it sounds the same as this one. Only thing different I would have done is put a 5 dollar magnetic drain plug in.
Might have paid to stick an oil pressure gauge on the oil pressure sender port to see if it's up to specs just out of interest. I did that on my 5.7 litre Chevy LS1 engine when it had lifter noise,it wasn't bearings because I spent $23 AUD on an oil pressure gauge & the oil pressure was within specs so that's the best $23 I've spent. People thought that I blew the motor up. I spent $1000 AUD on replacing the lifters & gaskets in the engine, the cylinder heads have to come off to replace them,the engine has done 341,407 kilometres & has no sign of lifter noise,a set of 16 lifters cost me $100 AUD on eBay & I also threw a new timing chain kit on as well. Hopefully, that repair you've done is holding up well !
I actually did this trick some twenty years ago. I was stuck in Brownsville Texas with now X wife. I had a Ford F-100 that had knocking rod. We had to leave because she got into it with her mother and we where staying at her house. The whole family including her was pretty awful anyway. But I had to get out then and there. So I took the engine out with come-along under a tree branch and did the work on a blanket in hot sun in the dirt. What I did was stand up the whole crank shaft upright by itself because I had more than 1 rod knocking and I put emery cloth around the journals and then put the end caps back on with the connecting rods in place. Then one by one I spun them around by hand while tightening the cap nuts on tighter and tighter so that the emery was squeezed flat against journal and sand the heck out of them. I had some super torn up journals too. Ate up with deep scars and high spots. One of the rods had broke but it didn't destroy the block. Now looking at what you did I would have put endcaps on and then cranked the motor over by the starter. I would have done all the bearings not just one. But anyway, as you say it should have been professionally turned but it worked hey...! And the truck made it to Florida and lasted many years later. I finally gave the truck to some poor Mexican friends and I did it to piss off my X because she was trash anyway. Good luck!
Minus the bad ex wife (only cuz it's my mom), this one reminds me of childhood experiences helping my dad. He also cut some gaskets out of beer cartons or cork material. I hated helping him sand n hand-polish metal parts but did learn how they did things in small-town Vietnam.
The thing with repairing a car that has had a catastrophic failure is the car is not a total loss until you give up on it. Things will happen during the repair process that you cannot control. Either that or you make errors due to lack of experience. But as long as you don't quit, the car can always be repaired. Even if you go over your hours a lot for that repair
I gotta admit. I would have done the same thing. Sounds pretty damn good...only thing you hear after startup noise is the GDI system and fuel injectors doing their thing...making their noises. Nice Job!!! Props!!!
Great job Brian,,, I'd run the thickest muli viscocity oil I could get in the beast. I had a buddy that ran a stroker motor small block that had 0 oil pressure at idle and he raced it hard with Nitros. At idle you have little load and don't need a lot of oil pressure. I'd be more worried about the piston hitting the head at TDC with rpm. A 3-4 foot long emery cloth and polish it like buffing a shoe on the journal. Turn the crank as you work around the journal. Works great. Not outside of the box, There is no box.
I commend you for doing your best. But always remember customers are monsters imo. Always the ones you try to help out the most that end up coming after you.
You got lucky I tried the same thing on mine Mazda 6 2007 2.3 number one cylinder bearing was bad didn't work it was too far gone went to Pick-N-Pull picked up a block 170 slept it off together and it was great
Thanks for the video. My daughter's 2013 Sonata appears to have a Theta II engine rod bearing failure (hard starting, squeals then stalls). Pricing engine replacement I got $5600 for used (no way I'd get a used Theta II engine) and $8600 for quality remanufactured. So, yeah, replacement's not cheap, you did good for the customer.
An update: We got the engine replaced at a Hyundai dealer, long block, under warranty. That was quite a relief. I made an information packet that included: a Carfax report (that showed frequent oil changes during the first 50k miles), unfortunately there was no documentation for 50k to 80k miles, then for 80k miles to 96K miles I prepared a multipage report, with history and pictures, detailing my frequency of oil changes (I didn't have receipts) showing my oil change supplies, oil change equipment and handwritten vehicle service log showing the oil change intervals. I don't know if the information packet helped, but I like to think it did.
I did this same thing today ! Worked awesome ! That oil pump gear is a 17mm 6 point but it’s reversed thread ! I had to use a big impact and hold the gear with channel locks
I had this done on my SAAB 15k miles ago. Engine spun a bearing due to sludge issues from a faulty PCV system. Updated the PCV and fixed the issue this way. Car is still driving today with a bigger turbo and stage 2 tune.
Good job Brian. Going to attempt to do this on a 2002 4.7L Jeep engine that spun the rod bearing on #5 cylinder. Doesn`t look like it ever got hot or anything. It was a donor engine out of a Jeep that rolled 3 times so maybe it was still running upside down and starved for oil ,who knows? Gonna check the rest of the bearings while i`m in there. Hopefully i get as lucky as you did.
Please help, will this work on a 2006 Chrysler 300 hemi v8 engine 155 thousand miles? I have a rod knock and car will start but won't move and cut off if i accelerate the knock sounds louder and faster...
Would this work on a 2003 Suzuki aerio with slight shaving around it from the force of initial damage possibly creating wiggle room for the new bearing?
This is an honorable repair so long as the owner does not unload the the car onto an unsuspecting/uninformed buyer. I have done this many times on my cars and have sold them after 4-6-8 k miles later but I always disclosed the history and sold them as an "as is sale" with written a disclosure.
Zachary Kelley why I can't say on this motor I had a truck that was given to me for many issues a noise rod was one of them I did the same thing figured if it worked great if not motor was shot anyway it has ram for 3 years now no noise lol
Excellent thinking!!!!! Any updates on the car? Is it still running to this day? We would love to know. You should update the description. I am impressed it lasted a few weeks as you mentioned.
great you were able to save your customer a lot of money! who knows how long that will last , it's like a ticking time bomber for sure but I did something similar many many years ago to an old Honda that spun a bearing at 95,000 miles ! did the similar repair only I put in moly lube with the full synthetic oil , car ran another 48,000 miles before it let loose , my buddy was fine with that lol
The core issue was solved as he said the person ran it out of oil. So if you don’t run it out of oil again problem solved. If it is working yes not a correct way for you should pull the crank out have it machines and check rods for cracks and straightness. He said the customer ran it out of oil that was the issue. If they keep the oil full and changed on time it should last a long time. I bought a car the bearing spun as I was driving it to the parts store I was going to get parts for a full time up, don’t you love as is sells found out oil pump failed heard the knock turned engine off got the trailer towed it home. I dropped oil pan popped caps off sanded down replaced the oil pump that failed threw in new rod bearings and the car still going strong. Doing it right now on the same car he did it spun from lack of oil. Yes it is not the RIGHT way but when on a budget and need to get buy you have to do what you can. I can’t afford to pull motor and drop 2-3K in machine works and parts to rebuilt it so what’s the worst that can happen one start it and in the same situation with a knock that returns instantly or start it and be good to go tell who knows when. I have replaced spun rod bearings on cars this way not sure on the others for they are gone and been sold but one I did 4 years ago and my buddies wife is still driving the car with no issues. So if you know the reason it failed and sand the crank replace the bearing/s and also fix the issue of why it happened you might be okay. It’s worth a try for 40-50$ and have a chance of getting by and never have the issue again.
raul3331 My Hyundai 2003 THAT SHIT JUST HAPPEND TOO IT MAN WTF ONLY 119 thousand miles also my mechanic changed my oil n it happens next day which is odd
+George Rivera To do the top main bearing, an old trick is to get it in as far as you can, then put a cotter pin in the oil hole, spin the motor easy by hand, and the cotter pin pushes the bearing in the journal the rest of the way. The cotter pin will let you know when it stops.
Hello I am doin a bottom end rebuild on my Kia Sportage removed oil pump to clean n it is cog driven do you no if I have to get it timed back up before putting back on I have not moved timeing belt thanks
I did this with a ford 2.3 liter and I added a high volume oil pump. Drove like it was hot for many years without a problem. It sounded bad on cold startups if it sat for long periods though.
Back in the days when my dad was young... the 1940's the repair you did was pretty common. Basically you miked the roundness of the journal as you sanded it down and installed oversize bearings. But cars didn't run at 10,000 RPM either nor was the repair expected to last another 100,000 miles. It's still a great repair if you plan to get rid of the car soon. Note: I didn't say sell it to some unsuspecting person for full book value. The damaged crank is eventually still going to eat the bearings unless you get it perfectly round and smooth.
This is how people get screwed buying used cars that had undisclosed shadetree repairs done to them. Good on you for making the repair but the owner should be forced to keep it forever and not sell it or trade it.
These engines spin bearings even without being low on oil. They are junk, which is why Hyundai got sued over them. They extended the warranty to 120k miles, but most will fail shortly after.
I work at a hyundai dealership and yes they are absolutely junk, I have 8 vehicles waiting on back order engine's, and yes hyundai pays next to nothing in labor.
Paully Castallano I would play the lottery tonight, your lucky to have your hyundai last that long . I wish I could show you all the motors we have at the dealership for hyundai alone
Paully Castallano I'm just telling you, I know what I see and it's hyundai on flat beds all day everyday with their class action lawsuit lock up motors. But hey that's what keeps me payed, so go head and buy another Hyundai
A while back, I bought a couple of roles of emery cloth from Enco. Since it comes in roles, about one and a half inches wide, you can make it as long as needed. It's ideal for jobs like this.
Do you have a video of what it sounded like before the fix? Just kind of curious since my 95 honda accord just started getting this crazy knocking when it seemed to be working great. Although the engine oil light kept turning on and off intermittently for the last few months and I still don’t know what it was because the oil level was fine. Maybe you can shed some light on that. It’s a V6 C27A engine. Thanks
I have a 2006 sonata v6 that i just bought yesterday. Driving it today, ive noticed it has a low pitched bass like noise coming from the car. Any ideas?
Dude it will be fine As long as the surface is smooth it will seat fine and the new bearing will conform to the extremely small discrepancies on crank Just keep clean oil and let it rip tator chip 😎🤘
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My 4.0 Cherokee started knocking, I turned up the radio and it lasted almost two more years! Cheapest fix I've ever done.
Mine too I've had to renew my plates twice since it started. Just shy of 330,000 miles.
That's cuz it's the famous 4.Oh the most (only?) bulletproof engine Chrysler has made
It's people like y'all to put black tape over the check engine light!
Shepperd November were not rich so we do what we can, go away and lube up good for your next visit to your mechanic, I hear it helps with the pain u dummy
Skye Iorfida I usually don't have to visit a mechanic. I AM a retired mechanic (due to several injuries) now selling Auto Parts and handing out repair advice. And I understand that sometimes we get into financial difficulties. I have a few times in my life to be sure. But it's difficult for me to have sympathy for someone who claims they have no money when they are covered in tattoos and Jewelry and have a car with 22 inch rims, a Boom!-Boom! stereo, a bowling ball paint job, a neon light kit, and is blowing blue smoke while going down the road! Or single mothers driving an old POS of a car with eight kids in the backseat EACH of them with a different last name! And most of these are people who are either smoking and /or drinking a beer while going down the road! Funny they have no money to maintain their cars but they have money for beer, cigarettes, tattoos, and piercings! Just sayin '.
This here is what a real mechanic should be like: optimizes for the car's worth, practicality, and the cost of repair. Unlike all those replace-it-all experts out there.
You sir are a true mechanic in my humble opinion!...your a dyeing breed amongst a slew of what I call certified parts changers!!...is this the best (correct) way ....of course not!...but you took your knowledge and fixed it the best way for the customers budget !!...any other so called mechanic would have simply told the customer he was s hit out of luck!...but you went the extra mile!...and you know what ,it wouldn't surprise me if the customer got another 30000 miles out of it and had a great story for you to tell as well as the owner!...good job sir and kudos !!
Retired at 49
I agree with you. I went to automotive school myself and didn’t like it much because dealerships only want to screw customers.
Many places would do a cheap simple fix like this and charge a person thousands of dollars for a $50 buck fix.
Hey... This is the Old Skool way... We should give props to the first one to advertise saving money this way and for giving us this bullet to shoot at some of these flakey problems! This is the link right here: www.google.com/search?safe=active&client=ms-android-mpcs-us-revc&biw=360&bih=616&tbm=vid&sxsrf=ALeKk03agQJIdwVktiHbY6Nb1P5jLD7AxQ%3A1590276156265&ei=PLDJXuvaD8fl_QbSoYnAAQ&q=ol+skool+mechanic+rod+knock+RUclips&oq=ol+skool+mechanic+rod+knock+RUclips&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.3...25593.35041.0.35460.17.15.0.0.0.0.223.1922.1j10j2.13.0....0...1c.1j4.64.mobile-gws-serp..5.3.595...33i10k1j30i10k1.0.6JlWO3lDFTY#
Yessss!! 👏👏👏👏
We all know shops will just say new engine!
He did. I never would have done that for a customer
You did someone good. Old time shops did this type of work. In fact, in the 40’s and just before and after that time frame, this was not very unusual.
I knew a guy who poured his own babbit on giant shrimp boat winches.
Cool stuff, glad to see young guys fixing things
There was a time when hand-polishing crankpins and hand-fitting the older white-metal bearing metal poured directly into the rod end halves was more common. Given those old engines did not have filters or had by-pass filters at best, they lasted quite well. Modern engines work very hard. Older tech engines will extrude the bearing material very quickly when driven hard like a modern engine. Without much change in the size of loadbearing areas on the cranks compared to the old machinery, the fit and lubrication needs to be faultless. My biggest grief with some modern engines is a smaller oil capacity in the sump and they seem more inclined to fry off their oil. Some are designed to meet emissions standards by tight closure to stew in their own juice instead of venting fuel dilution of the oil. Boiled-off moisture recondenses when the engine cools down and does not depart. Quicker sludging of the oil is the outcome. Factory oil-change intervals may be a bit ambitious in some conditions. More frequent oil changes are probably good investment.
need more people like you in the world man good job if it works and saves the family money then you did great if not you tried to do your best
It may not be the proper way to repair the damage but you can't force a customer to spend what they don't have. At least they have wheels while they decide what to do.
But if the crank journal is not severely gouged or scraped you can do it, or you can use emery cloth too. Same thing with the engine deck and the head surface to true it up, But once you warp aluminum to a point where even a machine shop cannot true the heads or the engine deck well then its either time for the vehicle to go to vehicle heaven or if you have the money for a remanned short block, or long block by all means buy one, or go to the bone yard and hopefully that engine was never over heated or it does not have bottom end damage, cause on engines you only get a 20-30 day warranty, so the choice is up to you or your customer what they would like to do.
Also depending on the engine and vehicle make, you can get Cranks for a couple of hundred dollars brand new.
Jim Zivny . Would you say this particular engine would avoid this kind of damage using a high grade oil filter and frequent oil changes? Or is it a factory defect that it will happen regardless whatever you do
Grand Slam it ran low on oil. No car should have this issue if well maintained
ikutoisahobo Theres a factory recall for this cars engine for this problem. Lmao.
I have a 2012 Hyundai Tucson with 87,000 miles and apparent rod knock. It’s always been serviced at 5k miles & well taken care of. I was told I would have to swap the engine but you just gave me hope!
Get the crankshaft machined and bearings replaced. No need to replace engine.
Cool repair repair video and thank you . I have a 97 Accord with a #1 rod knock and will be doing this project soon. Wish me luck and hope it’s easy as your repair.
I was a mechanic years ago. I think this is a great fix for someone on a budget to try themselves if they have the skill or if you as the mech are doing a favor for a close friend, my concern with doing it for a regular customer would be I’m guessing 300 -500 in labor cost with probably a 50/50 shot at giving them 6 months of driving, A smaller scale example my friend took her car to a shop for windshield wiper not working. The dx was bad ww motor , she okayed a new one. For I think 275 total. Took her to get it. Hey I saved you some money. I was able to repair the motor so you only owe 150. Great except the very next rainy day 1 week later. No wipers. He still wanted 275 to put a new one on. Now she would have been out 425 plus four times of missing a few hours work to pick up / drop off car .. the reason a lot of good mechanics won’t try something like this is to do so and be fair you would have to eat the cost if it didn’t work to some agreed upon level. Which doesn’t make sense to a mechanic trying to earn a living any more than paying close to half the cost to repair and it not running but 1 to 5 weeks. I mean it worked ok so far this time but obviously it was an unknown as to working at all and no clue as to longevity. Would your budget customer have been ok.. and was he informed in advance that the $350 ish repair may or may not work and may work for a day or years? Not fussing at you just making a point to the many comments about most mechanics being crooks for not offering this type of cheap fix. They are some legit reasons to be careful about this kinda stuff. Plus the customer that wants the cheap repair even when you tell him no guarantees and I don’t know how functional it will be if we do that. Are always the ones raising hell because the $50 fix didn’t give them the exact results that the $500 actual repair would have
More mechanics need to take notes from this guy. Glad you were honest about the repair process.. because most would have done otherwise. SUBBED!!
Finally someone who I can understand while speaking. And what a great job on that car bro. Thanks for the information. I'm fixing a rod bearing on a 2005 freestar right now the same way.
I think this method makes perfect sense as long as your clearances are still within spec you don’t have any shavings circulating throughout the engine it should hold up the life of the engine. Patience is key and not over sanding the crankshaft because you only get one shot and it can get expensive.
I think it would be pretty hard to oversand the crankshaft by hand with a reasonable grit sandpaper because it's made of such hard steel. All you are really trying to do is remove the melted bearing material, which is relatively soft and easily sanded. From my experience, if the journal itself is gouged, sandpaper isn't going to do much.
Good work. You actually fixed something rather than just replace parts which is what mechanics should do.
I had this happen on my van, 1996 Pontiac transport, 3800 v6, I polished the rod journal like you did, cleaned everything up and put in a standard bearing with plasticguage and torqued the rod cap. Took it apart, measured my clearance, did some math to figure what undersized bearing I needed to get it in spec, got the bearing, put it together, and ran it another 20,000 miles with no issues until I traded it off on a new car. I got lucky. And I'm a professional ASE certified master auto tech, and since to replace this engine the cradle needs to come out the bottom with engine and trans attached, I thought I'd try this first. Luckily, it worked.
You can't really do this on modern engines anymore. They use a hardened coating on the crank bearing surfaces. You cannot machine most new cranks as the coating is only so thick. I'm surprised this worked as well as it did., but I doubt it's a permanent fix.
@@batchnerd the hardness of the crank has very little impact on the function of a journal bearing
dave1135 1995 was the last year they put the 3.1 or the 3.8. 1996 they droped them and only put gasket munching 3.4 in
did you wear it down that far from standard diameter, certainly not more than.010
This guy is always putting up great content. I grew up around mechanics. And yes shops have a huge overhead. Many mechanics work on family and friends vehicles. They do things from hlme that their bosses or corporate policy do not allow. BeHumane as possible. Thumbs up
you are a good lad for tryin it is guys like you that let guys like us stay on the road thanks
This trick worked this time, but what about the next time when it doesn't work or possibly later on with this same repair when it throws a rod? You never know if you are sanding the journal perfectly round, it could wind up being egg shaped enough that it beats the bearing out. Is the customer going to be understanding about the situation when they're stranded on the side of the road with a hole in the engine block?
he is a good mechanic but its mechanics like him who mess up the business for car dealers. the car junk and should be taken off the road, its a pollution hazard. that's why the economy is trash in shitty America. in japan once your car reaches 5 years its taken off the road and your ordered to buy a new one. they are keeping there country clean and they have surpassed the USA after the USA tried to murder them.
+Rick Rick that's why Japan/China still have shitty air compared to America 😂
@@rickrick70 make my day .. wonderful comment ! please contact your nearest government office and tell them you're just the genius we all searching for !
...
Rick Rick whyle eye undurstaned thqt typos are Moore commen nowdays with all this tiping and stuf, and the ottocorekt shuod Fix thise problums four you pleze don’t try two bee sew smart when comenting on uthur peeples wizdum. That said:
So when your gov’t proclaims that you can’t have a car on the road for more than five years does that mean that they buy you a new car? What is done with the old one? Japan has a very finite amount of real estate. Do they just junk a car that a billion other people could maybe drive for another ten years? So there are several fundamental problems with this scenario, and I don’t think I even need to reference my Encyclopedia Brittanica for this one. It would be great if there was an organized data base where everyone on earth had access to an endless supply of information at your fingertips. Would be wouldn’t it? So they take away your right of ownership of personal real property. Not very democratic. They cost either the people or the gov’t an incredible amount of money in this process. Then, that waste has to be disposed of in a way to not negatively impact the natural resources of the home country. Then the automobile market gets to take advantage of these parameters and basically cheat at poker since now they don’t have to gamble. A warranty and/or insurance ARE literally gambling. Now that the manufacturers know exactly how long the car needs to last before another new is bought, they can play the system and win every time. As soon as uncertainty is eliminated, profits skyrocket. With that comes widespread corruption. So what you are claiming sounds pretty far fetched. And as far as air quality, Japan on the whole isn’t that bad, and Tokyo just has proximity to so many pollutants, yet downtown is ridiculous. China still is fighting pollution internally, with measured solutions. While they may continue to pollute on one front, that is designed to be a temporary fix while they upfit various facilities with the latest and greatest enhancements because believe it or not, THEY are the front runners in the climate change solution game. They noticed with their scale of change that some of these gross inefficiencies are already costing them easy money, but to yield to the forthright knowledge of the west is truly a cultural embarrassment.
“Grab ‘em by the pussy”.
I just replaced number 1,2,3 on my wife’s Toyota Corolla. Space was too tight to do number 4. Only number 1 was spun but the others had some wear so didn’t hurt. Car is back up and running nice.
Is it still goin good now?
I learned something new that's worth learning, today, thanks to you. You seem like a cool dude, good luck with your channel.
I've done this in several engine's, they all went over 100,000 miles and we're still running great when the people got rid of the vehicles.. doing it right now on a 2011 Traverse, I use belt sander sand paper and turn the engine over slowly by hand as I sand, found this video while looking for the specs for the Traverse so I can plastie gage it out.. I got stuck doing this one because to many people told the person I'm doing it for that it was junk, she shut it down as soon as she heard a noise.. good job.. oh, I found on this Traverse that the bearing that spun the cap was not milled right from the factory, there is .015 difference from one side to the other.. going to gage out and see what the Gap is before I grind cap, if it is in tolerance I won't grind
Good work! Where most stuff is disposable, you've repaired!👍
Lucas is the #1 used-car salesman trick.
Great job. Very creative and saved him a ton of money. Tell him not to run out of oil again.!
It's always good to know there are people like you that take time to use what they know to try and help someone like me. And don't ask a damn penny for it. You ever down in my part of Georgia look me up I know where some of the best hot wings and coldest beer is . My treat.
id love to know how long this repair lasted.
I did this on a Toyota Camry 2.2L 5SFE about a year ago and it is still running good. I used 400 grit to start, then 800, then 2500 to finish and the rod journal was as smooth as a machine shop would have done. It took me about a week (a little here, a little there) but, in the end: it turned out really good and MUCH cheaper than a machine shop. This car is a daily driver too.I wouldn't recommend doing it if the scratches are more than about .0005. You'll have to remove too much material to get it completely smooth. At .0005, the scratches can be felt with the tip of your finger nail, but the nail won't hang up in the scratch.I took the time to mich my rod journal and then ordered a bearing accordingly. Idiots that run their cars out of oil are cheap as shit when it comes to the repair options.For what it was, that was an awesome repair. I'm sure the owner pissed and moaned about the price of a proper repair.
Thanks for the advice. I have a 2007 Camry 4cylinder with 185,000 miles. You never know.
Back in the 60s-70s , a lot of racers finished the sanding off with krokus cloth. Like he said, the right way is to have it machined.
Oil cooler line popped off of my dually. What luck. Currently replacing rod bearings and have come to the spun bearing. I think I will try the emory cloth method and see. 6.5 turbo diesel. Hopefully I am successful
Nice. I actually found my way to this video, looking to do the same repair. A couple of questions...did you do all four? How bad was your knock? And I've got it open, and ran into what looking like 12 point nuts on the caps. Just curious if yours had them too, and if that's what they are, before going out and throwing money at another set.
Aaron Davis Not sure I'd do that on a diesel. Engine forces are much higher in diesels since they run much more forcefully than gas engines.
At least you offered the costumer a cheaper option. I went to a mechanic who told me I needed a whole new engine over a timing chain tensioner noise. My friend fixed the tensioner for me. It now has 228.000 miles and the engine is still good..
respect to you for trying and doing something to help a guy out on the cheep to help the guy get some money together .. Love good people like you so much respect for you
At Home Depot you can find Plumber's sand paper tape that works great for sanding any round metal.
I did it on my 2006 Infiniti m45 and it worked i followed all the steps car runs like new quite and powerful
Frederick Garnett when did it stop working? Or is it still running?
Hey does it still work or how loony did it last?
I am glad you posted this video. I have a 2006 Chevy Cobalt 2.2lr engine with a rod knock I am going to try the same thing with it. I just replaced all of the timing chain gear kit and the balancers chain and gears which was masking the sound of the rod knock. I hope I can get by with about $50.00 in it.
Thanks for this info. I have the same issue but on a 3.8 GM and I was going to try the same thing and your video gives me hope that the same procedure will work for me. I plan on rebuilding the oil pump and adding lucas which I have used many times over the years and has saved engines and transmissions both for me. I just hope I am as successful as you.
Loop a long piece of emery cloth with duct tape behind it and then use a power drill with a sanding drum. That will quickly polish it to a mirror finish. I've done it one time and worked like a charm.
RasmanZ
Great idea! Thanks !
RasmanZ Rasman, I need your help. Could you please explain this another way so that I can understand what you are talking about. My daily driver minivan is needing this, and I have children and need to get this done. Thank you, Rasman!
Hey i am actually in the process of doing this to a gm v6 3800series2 and i have watch videos that arent as in depth as this one is and would be greatful to get some guidance on what you mean you have done to get a mirror finish
What was the long term on it? I'm about to do the same thing on an ion
@@5jjt can you explain more in detalis what you are doing 🌹
I've done this fix on my friends 1998 Tahoe that had also spun a bearing. I carefully sanded the rod journals until they were smooth and replaced all the bearings. So far my friend has put around 20,000 miles and the engine still runs great and the knocking sound hasn't returned. I think this fix is worth a shot if the rod journals aren't heavily damaged.
Best mechanics video I ever watched on RUclips 👍
Showing you a cheap just to get by fix, thank you man
5w40 and 10w40 I havent or heard it being used since the early 90s. Newer cars now run 0w20 crazy thin oil. 10w40 used to be summer oil up by me and 10w30 winter oil back in the days when I was learning auto mechanics. Nowadays its a whole new world in auto repair.
actually modern engines have no better tolerances as the old engines, its the other way around!! agree, the modern oils they use are a lot thinner, but also have more dopes in it, the lesser tolerances have to do whit lesser feul consumption, to make the engine run easier, whit lesser friction... (no joke, its a fact.) y didnt believe it before y checked this out, has to do whit inviremental laws, and getting new engines pass for low nox and co2 polution and feul mileage....
Curious how long that lasted, there were still major scratches on that. Did that to an old school Celica once that looked about as bad and it lasted just over a week before the new bearing started knocking. Trick is, when you guys start hearing it tick, get in there and replace the bearing before it beats up the journals on the crank and then the cheap fix works.
If the crank is so rough it's habitually tearing up the bearings, that won't be a long term fix regardless of how often you change the bearings because all those metal shavings will destroy everything else as the contaminated oil runs through the engine. But can it get someone by temporarily until they can afford a proper fix? Maybe.
So here we are almost 3 years later, any update? We are all anxiously waiting.
im sure it must have fragged by now.
@@Mikefngarage at least the vvt system with all that heavy oil he put in 🤣🙄😒
Good job man. You'd be amazed at how many cars are driving around with this done not half as Good! I'm willing to bet this car will run for thousands of more miles just fine. I had a 2011 Hyundai sonatas in the other day with 20k and it sounds the same as this one. Only thing different I would have done is put a 5 dollar magnetic drain plug in.
Might have paid to stick an oil pressure gauge on the oil pressure sender port to see if it's up to specs just out of interest.
I did that on my 5.7 litre Chevy LS1 engine when it had lifter noise,it wasn't bearings because I spent $23 AUD on an oil pressure gauge & the oil pressure was within specs so that's the best $23 I've spent.
People thought that I blew the motor up.
I spent $1000 AUD on replacing the lifters & gaskets in the engine, the cylinder heads have to come off to replace them,the engine has done 341,407 kilometres & has no sign of lifter noise,a set of 16 lifters cost me $100 AUD on eBay & I also threw a new timing chain kit on as well.
Hopefully, that repair you've done is holding up well !
Should do a oil change at 500 miles to get out any other metals around in the engine
I would be shocked if it lasted 500 miles. You can fudge alot of auto repairs but a crank/bearing is quite unforgiving.
those floating parts will be a good friction modifier. ha ha. Gonna frag I give it a few months max.
I actually did this trick some twenty years ago. I was stuck in Brownsville Texas with now X wife. I had a Ford F-100 that had knocking rod. We had to leave because she got into it with her mother and we where staying at her house. The whole family including her was pretty awful anyway. But I had to get out then and there. So I took the engine out with come-along under a tree branch and did the work on a blanket in hot sun in the dirt. What I did was stand up the whole crank shaft upright by itself because I had more than 1 rod knocking and I put emery cloth around the journals and then put the end caps back on with the connecting rods in place. Then one by one I spun them around by hand while tightening the cap nuts on tighter and tighter so that the emery was squeezed flat against journal and sand the heck out of them. I had some super torn up journals too. Ate up with deep scars and high spots. One of the rods had broke but it didn't destroy the block. Now looking at what you did I would have put endcaps on and then cranked the motor over by the starter. I would have done all the bearings not just one. But anyway, as you say it should have been professionally turned but it worked hey...! And the truck made it to Florida and lasted many years later. I finally gave the truck to some poor Mexican friends and I did it to piss off my X because she was trash anyway. Good luck!
RJSoftware2000 thanks for that story made me laugh
Was it an inline 6?
I always wanted to try that method, thanks. Now I know it works.
good idea.
Minus the bad ex wife (only cuz it's my mom), this one reminds me of childhood experiences helping my dad. He also cut some gaskets out of beer cartons or cork material. I hated helping him sand n hand-polish metal parts but did learn how they did things in small-town Vietnam.
The thing with repairing a car that has had a catastrophic failure is the car is not a total loss until you give up on it. Things will happen during the repair process that you cannot control. Either that or you make errors due to lack of experience. But as long as you don't quit, the car can always be repaired. Even if you go over your hours a lot for that repair
Thanks for the help, It looks like the work was done in less then a day. I’m having issues with my Kia Optima which is the same engine
How long did this last?
It’s a Hyundai so technically that’s a proper text book repair ;)
I gotta admit. I would have done the same thing. Sounds pretty damn good...only thing you hear after startup noise is the GDI system and fuel injectors doing their thing...making their noises. Nice Job!!! Props!!!
Great job Brian,,, I'd run the thickest muli viscocity oil I could get in the beast. I had a buddy that ran a stroker motor small block that had 0 oil pressure at idle and he raced it hard with Nitros. At idle you have little load and don't need a lot of oil pressure. I'd be more worried about the piston hitting the head at TDC with rpm.
A 3-4 foot long emery cloth and polish it like buffing a shoe on the journal. Turn the crank as you work around the journal. Works great.
Not outside of the box, There is no box.
I commend you for doing your best. But always remember customers are monsters imo. Always the ones you try to help out the most that end up coming after you.
Gee...I hope you're not a shop owner with that attitude....
As long as the customer knows it's not a permanent fix and that the engine might only last a few thousand miles, it's all good.
The lesson is you are the man Brian! Great job!
You got lucky I tried the same thing on mine Mazda 6 2007 2.3 number one cylinder bearing was bad didn't work it was too far gone went to Pick-N-Pull picked up a block 170 slept it off together and it was great
damn what state are you in. i would totally bring my car into your shop!
@Theresa Jimenez WOW!!! That's insane and damn lucky!!!
Hi Brian! What was the plastiguage clearance?
I 2nd this question
Thanks for the video. My daughter's 2013 Sonata appears to have a Theta II engine rod bearing failure (hard starting, squeals then stalls). Pricing engine replacement I got $5600 for used (no way I'd get a used Theta II engine) and $8600 for quality remanufactured. So, yeah, replacement's not cheap, you did good for the customer.
An update: We got the engine replaced at a Hyundai dealer, long block, under warranty. That was quite a relief. I made an information packet that included: a Carfax report (that showed frequent oil changes during the first 50k miles), unfortunately there was no documentation for 50k to 80k miles, then for 80k miles to 96K miles I prepared a multipage report, with history and pictures, detailing my frequency of oil changes (I didn't have receipts) showing my oil change supplies, oil change equipment and handwritten vehicle service log showing the oil change intervals. I don't know if the information packet helped, but I like to think it did.
I did this same thing today ! Worked awesome ! That oil pump gear is a 17mm 6 point but it’s reversed thread ! I had to use a big impact and hold the gear with channel locks
I overhauled a $50 Craig's list 350 Chevrolet like this and dingle ball honed the cylinders. Ran the pee out of it for years.
Dan Swindell what is dingle ball honed?
@@xsuperdopeyx5933 www.google.com/search?sa=X&rlz=1C1CHBD_enTH755TH755&q=dingle+ball+engine&tbm=isch&source=univ&ved=2ahUKEwj_wZWE04LjAhVKto8KHTlSAScQsAR6BAgEEAE&biw=1280&bih=819
Alabama plant cars are covered most every one of them blew
I had this done on my SAAB 15k miles ago. Engine spun a bearing due to sludge issues from a faulty PCV system. Updated the PCV and fixed the issue this way. Car is still driving today with a bigger turbo and stage 2 tune.
How bad was it knocking before?
Hey some times you have to due what you have to do to make it to work
Great video just did this repair. Had 1 bad bearing, did them all but only needed 1. Hope it buys some more time.
Is it still running good?
@@kevikev214 ended up putting in a new motor, but it ran until I did. Still knocked.
@@PetesTurboGarage thanks bro
Good job Brian. Going to attempt to do this on a 2002 4.7L Jeep engine that spun the rod bearing on #5 cylinder. Doesn`t look like it ever got hot or anything. It was a donor engine out of a Jeep that rolled 3 times so maybe it was still running upside down and starved for oil ,who knows? Gonna check the rest of the bearings while i`m in there. Hopefully i get as lucky as you did.
Bad Idea! Waste of time!!!!!!!!!! It will be knocking when your done
Please help, will this work on a 2006 Chrysler 300 hemi v8 engine 155 thousand miles? I have a rod knock and car will start but won't move and cut off if i accelerate the knock sounds louder and faster...
This was over 3 years ago. I wonder if it's still running?
Me too
The "Sport" shoelaces should make the car faster, right? :-D
peacefrog0521 lol that was the idea
Brian Kiellish what state are you in do you have a email address
Would this work on a 2003 Suzuki aerio with slight shaving around it from the force of initial damage possibly creating wiggle room for the new bearing?
This is an honorable repair so long as the owner does not unload the the car onto an unsuspecting/uninformed buyer.
I have done this many times on my cars and have sold them after 4-6-8 k miles later but I always disclosed the history
and sold them as an "as is sale" with written a disclosure.
Sounds like it knocks when you first start it
No oil pressure on startup, common when you have air in the oil line
any update on this repair? how long it lasted?
Zachary Kelley why I can't say on this motor I had a truck that was given to me for many issues a noise rod was one of them I did the same thing figured if it worked great if not motor was shot anyway it has ram for 3 years now no noise lol
Dont care about YEARS, HOW MANY MILES?? Shit, if it's only driven 200 miles a year, means nothing.
@@johnfranklin5277 Thanks for pointing out the stupid previous reply.
Excellent thinking!!!!! Any updates on the car? Is it still running to this day? We would love to know. You should update the description. I am impressed it lasted a few weeks as you mentioned.
great you were able to save your customer a lot of money! who knows how long that will last , it's like a ticking time bomber for sure but I did something similar many many years ago to an old Honda that spun a bearing at 95,000 miles ! did the similar repair only I put in moly lube with the full synthetic oil , car ran another 48,000 miles before it let loose , my buddy was fine with that lol
I'm curious if that engine is still running now..
It died and took the driver with him
Highly doubt it probably lasted 50 miles or less before it spun those bearings
Yep that bearing spun for a reason to begin with... the core issue wasnt solved. Might as well out a bandaid on a gun shot wound
The core issue was solved as he said the person ran it out of oil. So if you don’t run it out of oil again problem solved. If it is working yes not a correct way for you should pull the crank out have it machines and check rods for cracks and straightness. He said the customer ran it out of oil that was the issue. If they keep the oil full and changed on time it should last a long time. I bought a car the bearing spun as I was driving it to the parts store I was going to get parts for a full time up, don’t you love as is sells found out oil pump failed heard the knock turned engine off got the trailer towed it home. I dropped oil pan popped caps off sanded down replaced the oil pump that failed threw in new rod bearings and the car still going strong. Doing it right now on the same car he did it spun from lack of oil. Yes it is not the RIGHT way but when on a budget and need to get buy you have to do what you can. I can’t afford to pull motor and drop 2-3K in machine works and parts to rebuilt it so what’s the worst that can happen one start it and in the same situation with a knock that returns instantly or start it and be good to go tell who knows when. I have replaced spun rod bearings on cars this way not sure on the others for they are gone and been sold but one I did 4 years ago and my buddies wife is still driving the car with no issues. So if you know the reason it failed and sand the crank replace the bearing/s and also fix the issue of why it happened you might be okay. It’s worth a try for 40-50$ and have a chance of getting by and never have the issue again.
THOSE ENGINES ARE UNDER RECALL FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. HYUNDAI WILL REPLACE THE COMPLETE ENGINE AT NO COST
raul3331 My Hyundai 2003 THAT SHIT JUST HAPPEND TOO IT MAN WTF ONLY 119 thousand miles also my mechanic changed my oil n it happens next day which is odd
sounds like the mechanic may have started ur engine before putting oil in it that doesnt just happen
Maybe some are, this one wasn't. I asked Hyundai to replace the engine but they refused. This repair was the last ditch effort.
I have done it for years on many different brand cars and it always works. Consider it a permanent repair.
+George Rivera To do the top main bearing, an old trick is to get it in as far as you can, then put a cotter pin in the oil hole, spin the motor easy by hand, and the cotter pin pushes the bearing in the journal the rest of the way. The cotter pin will let you know when it stops.
Hello I am doin a bottom end rebuild on my Kia Sportage removed oil pump to clean n it is cog driven do you no if I have to get it timed back up before putting back on I have not moved timeing belt thanks
I did this with a ford 2.3 liter and I added a high volume oil pump. Drove like it was hot for many years without a problem. It sounded bad on cold startups if it sat for long periods though.
Ah, a Jedi Mechanic!!!
I personally done this with a 2000 Buick century and that was 3 years ago and it's still running but also slapped a 10 thousands over sized bearing in
Lucky lucky you.
You mean an undersized bearing don't you, since you removed material the journal would be undersized?
the journal is under sized thus the bearing has to be oversize to maintain the proper clearance.
Great Work!!! I how done the same. If the thermostat is removed the oil runs thicker, more protection.
Back in the days when my dad was young... the 1940's the repair you did was pretty common. Basically you miked the roundness of the journal as you sanded it down and installed oversize bearings. But cars didn't run at 10,000 RPM either nor was the repair expected to last another 100,000 miles.
It's still a great repair if you plan to get rid of the car soon. Note: I didn't say sell it to some unsuspecting person for full book value. The damaged crank is eventually still going to eat the bearings unless you get it perfectly round and smooth.
That is so weird.. I though the inside of Hyundai engines were made of plastic..😯
Timeimg chain with 2 plastic guides beats a timeing belt with a tensioner pulley!
Still sounds like a knock at start up ?
God bless you. Honest mechanics are hard to find.
I had a knock I removed the knocking cylinder and just drive with 3 cylinders last 3 years
I'm surprised your engine doesn't shake itself to pieces.
What a cutting torch?
You probably just disabled it, taking the head of to remove a bad piston and put back together would have not made any sense...
Hyundai has a recall on this issue!
Hyundai: "Warning: when you run our cars out of oil, they die" Toyota: "Oil is optional"
Excellent job! Nice save if it works! First thing I did after watching this was check my oil.
130 000 miles is a lot of miles ?
This is how people get screwed buying used cars that had undisclosed shadetree repairs done to them. Good on you for making the repair but the owner should be forced to keep it forever and not sell it or trade it.
These engines spin bearings even without being low on oil. They are junk, which is why Hyundai got sued over them. They extended the warranty to 120k miles, but most will fail shortly after.
I work at a hyundai dealership and yes they are absolutely junk, I have 8 vehicles waiting on back order engine's, and yes hyundai pays next to nothing in labor.
But saying that also, hyundai is having a major issue with the newer motors, not so much with the old style engines.
Paully Castallano I would play the lottery tonight, your lucky to have your hyundai last that long . I wish I could show you all the motors we have at the dealership for hyundai alone
Paully Castallano I'm just telling you, I know what I see and it's hyundai on flat beds all day everyday with their class action lawsuit lock up motors. But hey that's what keeps me payed, so go head and buy another Hyundai
It's under recall for metal particle contamination in crankshaft passages. It's known for causing seizure.
So this was 6 years ago, is it still going strong? The bearing clearance is a little looser so it probably runs cooler at that bearing.
A while back, I bought a couple of roles of emery cloth from Enco. Since it comes in roles, about one and a half inches wide, you can make it as long as needed. It's ideal for jobs like this.
Dude, you actually sent that out???
You can hear that rod still rattling....
Did you at least get .01 over bearings???
MeMad Max I heard it too, doubt it lasted 10 miles it just got louder
I would fix it old school and trade it in. Try using a piece of leather, It will last a week or two.
You're a real honest guy aren't you.
You're one of the reasons I always buy brand new.
Do you have a video of what it sounded like before the fix? Just kind of curious since my 95 honda accord just started getting this crazy knocking when it seemed to be working great. Although the engine oil light kept turning on and off intermittently for the last few months and I still don’t know what it was because the oil level was fine. Maybe you can shed some light on that. It’s a V6 C27A engine. Thanks
I have a 2006 sonata v6 that i just bought yesterday. Driving it today, ive noticed it has a low pitched bass like noise coming from the car. Any ideas?
Jiffy Lube strikes again!
greg h yep! They get em every time knew some one that got an oil change there next day knocking how convenient
Mine happened at Walmart. Never again. I realized the problem just in time.
Dude it will be fine
As long as the surface is smooth it will seat fine and the new bearing will conform to the extremely small discrepancies on crank
Just keep clean oil and let it rip tator chip 😎🤘
How confident are u on that I am curious cuz I currently have the same issue but plan on doing it as professional and diy as I can
@@ImpalaLfx did u do it?
should I look at the journal before buying the size bearing I need?
Thats so awesome that you did that for your customer!
I will put some Lucas in that