You find crimped pins in PC cables too, just usually not in the hand-assembled variety, as most people don't have the crimper, so they just use the solder cup ones. You find the crimped ones with pre-crimped wires in D-sub to RJ-45 adapters. You can map the pins however you want between the RJ45 side and the d-sub side by pushing the crimped pins into whatever spot on the connector you want. I've used those little red/white insertion/removal tools to remove the pins and move them around - they can be a pain, but usually you have to push them in further than you think to get past the clip. I've also broken a few of those tips on the red side of those tools. It helps to take a needle file and knock the sharp edges off the opening slots of the tool on both sides, but they're just not super reliable tools
For what it's worth, those machined style terminals are also often called "closed barrel" where the stamped variety are often called "open barrel". Makes sense when you see them side by side, but you need to make sure you have the correct style crimper for each variety. One of the other pitfalls I often find with DSUB is you need to be careful with wire size if you want to disassemble them later. Get much larger than 20 gauge on most and the wire gets to be as big as the hole in the connector, so it's hard to get any kind of tool between the housing and wire to remove it.
“I have worked with DB9 and DB22 connectors used in telecommunications. At that time, I used a paper clip to remove the female pins, while for the male pins, I used needle-nose pliers. It was laborious work, and sometimes it was necessary to replace the connector. However, back then, it was very straightforward and inexpensive because there were many suppliers.
At my previous job, we had these connectors made by both AMP and Cannon. The assembled connectors were interchangeable, but AMP contacts didn't fit the Cannon housings (and vice versa)! I'm sure this insertable-contact style of D-Sub connectors are used in many fields besides avionics.
Some other sources: Newark, Allied Electronics. Amp/Tyco Electronics/TE Connectivity is one OEM with great data sheets. Daniel's Manufacturing (DMC) makes an awesome crimp frame with countless positioners for various contact profiles. Also, be aware that different P/Ns for the contacts often are associated with different gage sizes wires. Get the appropriate contact for the wire you are using.
I have a set of these tools but rarely ever use it. The first problem is the cost of the pins, the second is due to the cost of the pins one tends to only use the pins required for connection and this results in the socket not holding well in the plug unless screwed together. While we know the plug should be screwed in place this is not always practical when testing etc. If I were repairing a plane I would use them but otherwise they sit in the draw
Red end is the insertion tool the white is the removal tool. That is why it wasn’t working properly.
Thank you, that makes a difference. The insertion end works very nicely. I still hate the removal end.
You find crimped pins in PC cables too, just usually not in the hand-assembled variety, as most people don't have the crimper, so they just use the solder cup ones. You find the crimped ones with pre-crimped wires in D-sub to RJ-45 adapters. You can map the pins however you want between the RJ45 side and the d-sub side by pushing the crimped pins into whatever spot on the connector you want. I've used those little red/white insertion/removal tools to remove the pins and move them around - they can be a pain, but usually you have to push them in further than you think to get past the clip. I've also broken a few of those tips on the red side of those tools. It helps to take a needle file and knock the sharp edges off the opening slots of the tool on both sides, but they're just not super reliable tools
Cool to see. I probably won't be working on airplanes any time soon, but you never know. This could come in super handy some day.
For what it's worth, those machined style terminals are also often called "closed barrel" where the stamped variety are often called "open barrel". Makes sense when you see them side by side, but you need to make sure you have the correct style crimper for each variety. One of the other pitfalls I often find with DSUB is you need to be careful with wire size if you want to disassemble them later. Get much larger than 20 gauge on most and the wire gets to be as big as the hole in the connector, so it's hard to get any kind of tool between the housing and wire to remove it.
Well shared and a topic we enjoy around this shop. Have a great weekend. Lance.
“I have worked with DB9 and DB22 connectors used in telecommunications. At that time, I used a paper clip to remove the female pins, while for the male pins, I used needle-nose pliers. It was laborious work, and sometimes it was necessary to replace the connector. However, back then, it was very straightforward and inexpensive because there were many suppliers.
At my previous job, we had these connectors made by both AMP and Cannon. The assembled connectors were interchangeable, but AMP contacts didn't fit the Cannon housings (and vice versa)! I'm sure this insertable-contact style of D-Sub connectors are used in many fields besides avionics.
Looking forward to the avionics up grade final view!
Best.
Some other sources: Newark, Allied Electronics. Amp/Tyco Electronics/TE Connectivity is one OEM with great data sheets. Daniel's Manufacturing (DMC) makes an awesome crimp frame with countless positioners for various contact profiles. Also, be aware that different P/Ns for the contacts often are associated with different gage sizes wires. Get the appropriate contact for the wire you are using.
Thank you. I'll have to check out those other sources.
Great video. I've always thought hose little white/red tools were just useless.
I would've wanted to know all of this! very interesting
I have a set of these tools but rarely ever use it. The first problem is the cost of the pins, the second is due to the cost of the pins one tends to only use the pins required for connection and this results in the socket not holding well in the plug unless screwed together. While we know the plug should be screwed in place this is not always practical when testing etc. If I were repairing a plane I would use them but otherwise they sit in the draw
Wow. I don't think I've handled one of those classic Amphenol connectors in 30+ years.
I saw a connector melt because that tiny spring in the female contact had failed leaving it and the male contact to vibrate and make poor contact.
AB100 tabletop injection moulding machine spotted