First overview and cleaning of the board, which I'm going to try to repair in this years repairathon. Music by Model Povedeniya modelp.bandcam... Patreon: / necroware
Great! Looking forward to the repair video. Thanks! What a pity that last year I did not know that it is not enough just to desolder leaking Varta battery and clean it up, but you need to neutralize the alkali that has already spread across the board. Because of this, one of my motherboards that lain on the shelf for several months already without a battery, noticeably worsened its condition. And this is an interesting 80286 Headland with SIPP, and Harris CPU, it's a pity that, due to my ignorance, this happened. Your videos are very interesting and valuable, even for some experienced old hardware fans. You are very good at telling, I even learned a few new tricks. Moreover, I myself have been working with hardware for about... 20 years and even once taught this to beginners in computer history and repair courses. I think it's valuable to get that kind of feedback. When I am restless because of war (yep, central Ukraine near frontline, unfortunately), work or problems - I watch your videos and I feel much calmer. It's priceless
Thank you very much! I'm so glad, that my videos help you feel better, even if it is only for a couple of minutes. I imagine, that in this darkness every second of light is golden. Please stay safe, I wish you a peaceful sky as soon as possible. I am far away, but this is the only thing I can think of in the last 5 months. I'm also doing these videos just to not think about the war for a while :(
Ohh it's always nice to see old hardware getting all cleaned up! And I do agree, unless you are dealing with hardware under some sort of warranty, cleaning is always a priority not a second though.
Can't wait for the repair video. Would be amazing to get the 286 and super socket 7 working. The Tyan board is also interesting with the amount of slots and ramm sockets
In my experience, pink bubble wrap is anti-static. I have also seen a smoky grey-colour bubble wrap, but that was only from one vendor about 1997. Recently, I received parts in a heavy card-stock shipping envelope that had pink bubble wrap integrated into the envelope. That was new to me. But then, there is a business supplier in the USA (named Uline) that seems to make every kind of shipping container and envelope a business might ever need.
My favourite board to this day is Asus P2B-DS. During release in 1998, the box only advertised support for up to 450MHz P2, which at the time hasn't come out yet. Then with BIOS updates they raised support all the way up to 800MHz Coppermines. They were releasing drivers for 8 years. The board was popular in tech. My friend worked at IBM, and they had their internal mail servers run on P2B-DS. With an additional voltage mod and a custom BIOS, I was able to increase support dual P3-1GHz. That machine is my primary retro station. If it ever dies, I'll buy an identical replacement. Luckily, they are relatively abundant on the internet. 440BX Chipsets didn't have a good reputation, as I recall, but I used a number of different branded boards, and never had any issues. I heard Slot A, AMD systems were better performing, but I never came across one personally. At this point they're out of most collector's price range, especially with a decent CPU.
I just love to see old Hardware come back to life... I just don't have the skills, time and space to repair those myself... But some lucky dude was pretty happy 3 years ago when getting some 5m³ of old server hardware from my dads old mancave... (AS400 included)
Looking forward to the repair videos as I always learn something from them. I do have this Tyan Slot 1 board myself. It has an amazing amount of Bios options to configure memory timings. Crossing fingers that it still works.
Pink bubble-wrap is static dissipative (you can measure the resistance over a piece with a multimeter) and is indeed better than nothing.. ideally you want boards wrapped in pink static dissipative bags or bubblewrap, then stuffed into metallised plastic bags (static shielding bags). The idea is so that if the boards receive a static shock the energy can be dissipated (pink) safely, and if someone tries to apply a large voltage to them in shipping (like walking on a particularly plush carpet with lots of synthetics worn) then the boards will see it conducted around them safely (metalised bags). Cardboard is an insulator but not a particularly good one so is semi-static-safe.
The BX board looks similar to SR440BX but one PCI is missing and capacitors seems to be in a little different configuration. Maybe there were different revisions of this mainboard. The graphic chip is Riva TNT. Nice board.
That looks promising for some future videos! One note on the Triton III/VX: The critique can be called an "urban myth", which is repeated everywhere and I did this as well. Then I got such a board, and I found that what you REALLY should do is compare it to the FX - which also only has a 64 MB cachable area. Not only was the VX's PCI performance MUCH better than of the FX, it had better memory performance, better IDE performance (the FX chipset has a rate happening bug which made only 12 MB/s a safe writing speed), it had USB and supports a lot more CPUs and multipliers. So better think of it as "FX on steroids". 64 MB are more than enough for DOS, and Win98 would also run smooth under normal circumstances.
Yes, the problem was, that Triton III came out after Triton II, but was actually worse in most aspects. You can compare Triton III to Triton I, but there's that brother in between, which doesn't make Triton III look too good 😊
@@necro_ware Absolutely aware and agree on that. Have Triton I to III here, but if you have to choose between I and III, the latter is still the better chipset. My point was, the 64 MB limit is also present on Triton I, but noone mentions that :D
Looks like a lot of fun upcoming! I'm curious to see how the BIOS chip gets replaced. A friend and I screwed up the BIOS on a board we got and are idly looking for a cheap way to flash it.
@@necro_ware I had a feeling that was what we'd need, but they appear to go for $60 on amazon, and I didn't want to purchase something at that price if it wouldn't work. I'm still working my way through some of your older vids, and somehow missed the BIOS Patcher vid. That looks like exactly what we need as this whole debacle started because our machine wouldn't recognize an 80 gig HDD. I'll likely pick up a TL866 and give it a go soon!
So the pink wrap is so that the functional components don’t get damaged if you’re aiming to use them as spares, or if, like you are, intending to fix them.
By the time those motherboards were designed and built, there was no problem with CMOS chips anymore, so wrapping them in anything antistatic or not didn't make a difference.
If your tap water is too hard (too salty), after it evaporates, salt can remain on the contacts and short them. In my case it's not a problem, but if you are not sure, just use distilled water.
Are you sure, that it is a Socket 7 board? I never saw one with a barrel battery. They usually used to be with coin batteries, or an integrated RTC module, like Dallas.
Oh, that brings back memories when I first got into computers. Thank Goodness for the metal clips on the 30 (32) pin simm sockets. Nice collection of boards. They should treat you well. Esp. the Intel chipset.
I love the video's my friend, really wish you could do a repair a board I have that was my first Computer I put together, it was during the AMD Athlon day's, has some blown caps from sitting I just can't find the ones I need to replace all the ones that are on the motherboard. Brand of board is a Soltek SL-75kAV/-X socket A motherboard VIA Apolio KT133A Series. It's got 1 AGP slot, 5 pci slots, and 1 ISAS slot. It's a ATX motherboard. Would love to give it some love and get it running again. Great video my friend and God Bless you. Stay safe.
I also wash my boards like this, and they all survived it except two.... i had two identical Slot 1 boards just like the one you have here in green - from a 1998 ALDI PC with a Pentium 2 350Mhz on. After washing they werent working anymore, ony beeping like crazy... So be careful hehe
I like a lot your videos!! Thanks for preserving these good old hardware pieces of history! :-] I will be looking after some bath aftermath to see what is working or not and what your magic can do about it!! ;-)
Pink bags: The bag won't create static electricity, but static can still penetrate the bag. Silverish blue bags: The bag won't create static nor can static penetrate the bag.
Hello Necroware I'm glad you didn't stop thinking about the vrm project that you're doing I do hope you eventually get the time to get the schematics so that other people can make that themselves or maybe even purchase one from you. I recently got a PC chips M520 motherboard (granted yeah PCchips aren't great but I got it for free) and for it to support greater than a standard Pentium 200 non MMX I have to install a vrm. I have a Cyrix M II PR 300(real speed 233) I would love to use since I'm not a fan of Intel at all and beta vrm only supported the wattage for the Pentium 233 officially and I was wondering when you finally get that completed is it going to be able to support the higher wattage CPUs to wear the vrm can stay cooler without needing the fans how you had done it the first time. I do hope you read this and I would really like some help please. I can already find an upgrade bios I just have to double check for this board (it's weird) I have to use either a small block bios or a large block bios and I believe mine is a small block bios. Like I said seeing that it's a PC chips board it's definitely off the wall.Thank you and have a good one.
AFAIK Pink usually means that the material does not cause static to build up when agitated, but does not prevent static discharge or potential differences, these are know as ESD-protective for storage (when the thing inside is not in use sitting on a shelf or drawer somewhere). Packaging that is very darkly tinted, has an interlocked/woven pattern in it, or thick with the ESD symbol all over it is usually the ESD-protective stuff made for shipping, it is slightly electrically conductive so that it becomes a faraday cage and bleeds out static buildups. And normal plastic easily builds up charges when it rubs on something.
That slot cleaning tip is great. I have two SNES which need a slot clean and light rust/tarnish removal. I was not sure how to go about it. I will use your method.
ah the 90s.. remember when computer assembling, upgrading and repairing are a lot of more fun, exciting and adventurous, unlike now , its boring.. there are also a lot motherboards, and controller cards that can be criss cross between processors of different manufacturers.. missed those days..
About a year ago I came across a complete new old stock Leading Edge 286 computer with all accessories and monitor that had never seen the light of day. The very first thing I did after opening the 35 year old box was to open up the computer and pull the motherboard out so I could remove the Varta battery and neutralize the electrolyte then clean the board. It works great and still looks brand new since it had no yellowing whatsoever.
I always wonder watching your videos, why are you rinsing the boards using the tap water? Doesn't it contain the minerals that are conductive, and electronics should be washed using the demineralized water?
I often visit local trash facility where you can drop your trash from garden, cardboard, electronics etc. I often see there some retro stuff but it’s forbidden to take anything :(
As a follow-up for your audience. The first Slot 1 board you unwrapped is an Intel RC440BX. The integrated video chipset is a 4MB Nvidia Riva 128. I believe the maximum CPU the board supports are Katmai P3s. If I also remember correctly, the chipset is labeled BX but is actually the ZX variant which is more limited in RAM capacity (hence the 2 slots instead of 3 or 4)
Обычный столовый уксус. Я беру 10-15%, но его долго оставлять нельзя, надо через минут 10 смывать. Можно и поменьше процентов брать, даже 3% работает, но надо минут 20 ждать, пока он сработает. Если уксус не нравится, там запах противный, тогда можно концентрированный лимонный сок или любую другую слабую кислоту.
Oh my. As you started going through the boards I got to thinking that I wish I hadn't thrown my pentium III board away when it died (i did keep the processor). Little did I know that it might have been repaired someday. I spent hours looking for the right board back then. My father bought me (some years earlier) a full size tower that I used for years. When I went to upgrade, AT motherboards were very rare. I found one that would support a Pentium 3. Fast foward to the present, and there it is...The Tyan S1830S. I look forward to seeing what you do with it. Oh, as a side note, I recently picked up a lil 386 board like that first one you pulled out of the box. It needs a little work, as the battery has causes a little damage.
That wasn't an auction, it was sold for a fixed price. I didn't know, if I'd have time to take care about it, but after some days where nobody wanted it, I decided to take it eventually. I still have no time, but now I have no choice, but to make a repairathon ;)
I use 10%, but everything between 3% and 15% is ok. You just have to wash the board as soon as possible, if you use high concentration. To get some experience, I'd suggest to stay around 5% This gives you a lot of time to clean everything.
Well, you can reuse them. You mix (E)EPROMs and PROMs, where (E)E stands for (Electrically)Erasable. More than that, on the mainboards starting with Pentium, (E)EPROMs were replaced by flash ROMs, to be able to write PnP data into it. So they are very well reusable. I also pull them from the boards, which are definitely beyond any repair, or industry boards worthless from today's point of view.
@@necro_ware yeah, on second thought you're probably right. I was thinking of that 486 board I was dealing with. It had a UV-erasable prom, but with no window for erasing, so you can't actually erase it. I had to replace it to update the bios. But newer machines should have electrically erasable memory, if nothing else, for updating the bios. But then again. Aren't they like a buck a piece on aliexpress?
@@necro_ware lol, you know, I'm from russia, and yes, I know exactly what you're talking about. I've seen it up close in the 90s. :-D People were hunting for tantalum capacitors too. But I thought we were past that. :-D
I don't understand why to repair old from 386 and UP, those are not classics, and any modern PC can run the software those used to run. It is not like original IBM and clones as its software rely on the exact CPU CLOCK speed and buses yeld to run games in correct speed. And also they are not considered classic, like and PS2 IBM would be (for said, the same era).
I love these repairathons, fascinating.
Great! Looking forward to the repair video. Thanks!
What a pity that last year I did not know that it is not enough just to desolder leaking Varta battery and clean it up, but you need to neutralize the alkali that has already spread across the board. Because of this, one of my motherboards that lain on the shelf for several months already without a battery, noticeably worsened its condition. And this is an interesting 80286 Headland with SIPP, and Harris CPU, it's a pity that, due to my ignorance, this happened. Your videos are very interesting and valuable, even for some experienced old hardware fans. You are very good at telling, I even learned a few new tricks. Moreover, I myself have been working with hardware for about... 20 years and even once taught this to beginners in computer history and repair courses. I think it's valuable to get that kind of feedback.
When I am restless because of war (yep, central Ukraine near frontline, unfortunately), work or problems - I watch your videos and I feel much calmer. It's priceless
Thank you very much! I'm so glad, that my videos help you feel better, even if it is only for a couple of minutes. I imagine, that in this darkness every second of light is golden. Please stay safe, I wish you a peaceful sky as soon as possible. I am far away, but this is the only thing I can think of in the last 5 months. I'm also doing these videos just to not think about the war for a while :(
No pleasure, no rapture, no exquisite sin greater... than central air, but Necroware repairathon videos are a close second.
Ohh it's always nice to see old hardware getting all cleaned up!
And I do agree, unless you are dealing with hardware under some sort of warranty, cleaning is always a priority not a second though.
Repairathon is back! Well. My morning just got better.
OH YES!!!!
Wonderful! Looking forwards to the repair videos, especially that nice-looking AMD 286-board. :)
I can't wait to see if you get them working again, I have learned a lot from your Chanel, keep it up.
looking forward for the next one!
Great idea of keeping the paper towel with the vinager inside the slots, thanks :)
You're right about the pink bubble wrap being anti-static (generally speaking)
I have also seen Red and Blue anti-static bags and bubble wrap.
Can't wait for the repair video. Would be amazing to get the 286 and super socket 7 working. The Tyan board is also interesting with the amount of slots and ramm sockets
Cool, i never saw a Slot1 AT Board 😳👍
Best greetings from Germany
In my experience, pink bubble wrap is anti-static. I have also seen a smoky grey-colour bubble wrap, but that was only from one vendor about 1997. Recently, I received parts in a heavy card-stock shipping envelope that had pink bubble wrap integrated into the envelope. That was new to me. But then, there is a business supplier in the USA (named Uline) that seems to make every kind of shipping container and envelope a business might ever need.
Would love to see more detail about specifics when you do your cleanings and drying of hardware like this.
My favourite board to this day is Asus P2B-DS. During release in 1998, the box only advertised support for up to 450MHz P2, which at the time hasn't come out yet. Then with BIOS updates they raised support all the way up to 800MHz Coppermines. They were releasing drivers for 8 years. The board was popular in tech. My friend worked at IBM, and they had their internal mail servers run on P2B-DS. With an additional voltage mod and a custom BIOS, I was able to increase support dual P3-1GHz. That machine is my primary retro station. If it ever dies, I'll buy an identical replacement. Luckily, they are relatively abundant on the internet. 440BX Chipsets didn't have a good reputation, as I recall, but I used a number of different branded boards, and never had any issues. I heard Slot A, AMD systems were better performing, but I never came across one personally. At this point they're out of most collector's price range, especially with a decent CPU.
For some reason, I find it very satisfying to clean all my retro eBay purchases.
Awesome boards
Yes, you are right. The pink bubblewrap is usually anti-static! Can't want for more vids. Good luck!
Nice video I love old hardware
Waiting eagerly!!
I just love to see old Hardware come back to life...
I just don't have the skills, time and space to repair those myself...
But some lucky dude was pretty happy 3 years ago when getting some 5m³ of old server hardware from my dads old mancave... (AS400 included)
Thank you
Looking forward to the repair videos as I always learn something from them. I do have this Tyan Slot 1 board myself. It has an amazing amount of Bios options to configure memory timings. Crossing fingers that it still works.
Good stuff!
Most of these boards are quite common. Have boxes full of them. Except for the 286 and Slot 1 AT board, I've had multiples of these before.
Great! repair videos are so satisfying!
Great stuff! Looking forward to the 2nd encounter ! :)
Pink bubble-wrap is static dissipative (you can measure the resistance over a piece with a multimeter) and is indeed better than nothing.. ideally you want boards wrapped in pink static dissipative bags or bubblewrap, then stuffed into metallised plastic bags (static shielding bags).
The idea is so that if the boards receive a static shock the energy can be dissipated (pink) safely, and if someone tries to apply a large voltage to them in shipping (like walking on a particularly plush carpet with lots of synthetics worn) then the boards will see it conducted around them safely (metalised bags). Cardboard is an insulator but not a particularly good one so is semi-static-safe.
I have two of those super-socket 7 Alladin-boards. Runs very well with K6-2 and K6-3 cpu-s.
The BX board looks similar to SR440BX but one PCI is missing and capacitors seems to be in a little different configuration. Maybe there were different revisions of this mainboard. The graphic chip is Riva TNT. Nice board.
It’s an Intel RC440BX. I’ll make a full comment about it
@@Crazyerics OK, so it is Riva ZX on board, right?
Once again: Thank you so much for sharing. Kind of warms my heart to see old things rescued and restored
That looks promising for some future videos!
One note on the Triton III/VX: The critique can be called an "urban myth", which is repeated everywhere and I did this as well. Then I got such a board, and I found that what you REALLY should do is compare it to the FX - which also only has a 64 MB cachable area.
Not only was the VX's PCI performance MUCH better than of the FX, it had better memory performance, better IDE performance (the FX chipset has a rate happening bug which made only 12 MB/s a safe writing speed), it had USB and supports a lot more CPUs and multipliers. So better think of it as "FX on steroids". 64 MB are more than enough for DOS, and Win98 would also run smooth under normal circumstances.
Yes, the problem was, that Triton III came out after Triton II, but was actually worse in most aspects. You can compare Triton III to Triton I, but there's that brother in between, which doesn't make Triton III look too good 😊
@@necro_ware Absolutely aware and agree on that. Have Triton I to III here, but if you have to choose between I and III, the latter is still the better chipset.
My point was, the 64 MB limit is also present on Triton I, but noone mentions that :D
Looks like a lot of fun upcoming! I'm curious to see how the BIOS chip gets replaced. A friend and I screwed up the BIOS on a board we got and are idly looking for a cheap way to flash it.
That's actually an easy task, if you have a programmer, like TL866. I made quite a lot of videos already, where I replaced and/or upgraded the BIOS.
@@necro_ware I had a feeling that was what we'd need, but they appear to go for $60 on amazon, and I didn't want to purchase something at that price if it wouldn't work. I'm still working my way through some of your older vids, and somehow missed the BIOS Patcher vid. That looks like exactly what we need as this whole debacle started because our machine wouldn't recognize an 80 gig HDD. I'll likely pick up a TL866 and give it a go soon!
Seems like some quality content incoming.
Where? o_0
I mean I really like Your repair videos, and they motivated me to start repairing old computers stuff on my own
@@RetroNora7734 That was a joke 🤣
I thought I have made a mistake 😅
So the pink wrap is so that the functional components don’t get damaged if you’re aiming to use them as spares, or if, like you are, intending to fix them.
By the time those motherboards were designed and built, there was no problem with CMOS chips anymore, so wrapping them in anything antistatic or not didn't make a difference.
When washing the boards, are you just using tap water and dish soap or something else? Are there any dangers to avoid when doing so?
If your tap water is too hard (too salty), after it evaporates, salt can remain on the contacts and short them. In my case it's not a problem, but if you are not sure, just use distilled water.
TIL there are slot 1 at motherboards
The Slot1 Intel Board i have too. If you need some info just make a dirty call!
I already thought to ask you if you are interested ;)
I have a socket 7 mb with a hole in it where the leaked battery was
Are you sure, that it is a Socket 7 board? I never saw one with a barrel battery. They usually used to be with coin batteries, or an integrated RTC module, like Dallas.
@@necro_ware turns out it has a coin cell, but it still has a big hole in it for some reason
😎
Nice video, if it's not hard for you, add Russian subtitles to the next video, I have some English-language knowledge, but not enough. :-(
Добавил!
Varta, Killer of retro hardware! 😬
Oh, that brings back memories when I first got into computers. Thank Goodness for the metal clips on the 30 (32) pin simm sockets. Nice collection of boards. They should treat you well. Esp. the Intel chipset.
This is gonna be great!
Thank you so much for this!
I love the video's my friend, really wish you could do a repair a board I have that was my first Computer I put together, it was during the AMD Athlon day's, has some blown caps from sitting I just can't find the ones I need to replace all the ones that are on the motherboard. Brand of board is a Soltek SL-75kAV/-X socket A motherboard VIA Apolio KT133A Series. It's got 1 AGP slot, 5 pci slots, and 1 ISAS slot. It's a ATX motherboard. Would love to give it some love and get it running again. Great video my friend and God Bless you. Stay safe.
Great thanks for Russian subs! Very interesting, amazing video!
Was that the ASUS P5A Aladdin V motherboard? I'm excited to see what kinda mods you can do to it since i have one myself.
So much motherboardy goodness. reminds me of the 25 or so that I have stacked up for recapping - gulp.
yey more motherboard repairs, i love you necroware big love from me.. wanna learn your craft too, therefore this is where i learn ;) thanks man
Love your vids keep up the good work
You should expect that power good line is damaged on first unpacked mobo.
I also wash my boards like this, and they all survived it except two.... i had two identical Slot 1 boards just like the one you have here in green - from a 1998 ALDI PC with a Pentium 2 350Mhz on. After washing they werent working anymore, ony beeping like crazy... So be careful hehe
fresh hardware!
I can't wait to swe naxt part
I like a lot your videos!! Thanks for preserving these good old hardware pieces of history! :-]
I will be looking after some bath aftermath to see what is working or not and what your magic can do about it!! ;-)
Pink bags: The bag won't create static electricity, but static can still penetrate the bag.
Silverish blue bags: The bag won't create static nor can static penetrate the bag.
Nice trick stuffing the paper towel I to the ISA slot. I've always had trouble getting the pins cleared of oxidation.
I'm putting boards in dishwasher (after electrolyte neutralization) :) Works like a charm
Hello Necroware I'm glad you didn't stop thinking about the vrm project that you're doing I do hope you eventually get the time to get the schematics so that other people can make that themselves or maybe even purchase one from you. I recently got a PC chips M520 motherboard (granted yeah PCchips aren't great but I got it for free) and for it to support greater than a standard Pentium 200 non MMX I have to install a vrm. I have a Cyrix M II PR 300(real speed 233) I would love to use since I'm not a fan of Intel at all and beta vrm only supported the wattage for the Pentium 233 officially and I was wondering when you finally get that completed is it going to be able to support the higher wattage CPUs to wear the vrm can stay cooler without needing the fans how you had done it the first time. I do hope you read this and I would really like some help please. I can already find an upgrade bios I just have to double check for this board (it's weird) I have to use either a small block bios or a large block bios and I believe mine is a small block bios. Like I said seeing that it's a PC chips board it's definitely off the wall.Thank you and have a good one.
I think I have the same Slot 1 motherboard with built-in graphics and sound. I believe the graphics chip is a Nvidia RIVA 128ZX.
AFAIK
Pink usually means that the material does not cause static to build up when agitated, but does not prevent static discharge or potential differences, these are know as ESD-protective for storage (when the thing inside is not in use sitting on a shelf or drawer somewhere).
Packaging that is very darkly tinted, has an interlocked/woven pattern in it, or thick with the ESD symbol all over it is usually the ESD-protective stuff made for shipping, it is slightly electrically conductive so that it becomes a faraday cage and bleeds out static buildups.
And normal plastic easily builds up charges when it rubs on something.
That slot cleaning tip is great. I have two SNES which need a slot clean and light rust/tarnish removal. I was not sure how to go about it. I will use your method.
ah the 90s.. remember when computer assembling, upgrading and repairing are a lot of more fun, exciting and adventurous, unlike now , its boring.. there are also a lot motherboards, and controller cards that can be criss cross between processors of different manufacturers.. missed those days..
Sir, the ammount of systems you've revived could rival the cycles consumed by a modern datacenter! digital necromancy may your powers grow with time!
About a year ago I came across a complete new old stock Leading Edge 286 computer with all accessories and monitor that had never seen the light of day. The very first thing I did after opening the 35 year old box was to open up the computer and pull the motherboard out so I could remove the Varta battery and neutralize the electrolyte then clean the board. It works great and still looks brand new since it had no yellowing whatsoever.
I always wonder watching your videos, why are you rinsing the boards using the tap water? Doesn't it contain the minerals that are conductive, and electronics should be washed using the demineralized water?
I often visit local trash facility where you can drop your trash from garden, cardboard, electronics etc. I often see there some retro stuff but it’s forbidden to take anything :(
Thanks to you and learning that essig can help I saved 4 gameboys from the dead
These videos have inspired me to dig out the Socket 7 board and Pentium 166 I have in storage to get them back up and running!
looks like a ton of fun, 440bx is my favorite board.. great memories with time span.
Nice parcel!
This will be very interesting repairathon! 👍😊
Watching you clean these boards with soap and water just feels so wrong.
It should be wrapped in a transparent metallic bag...
Ouch, Varta/gp battery of doom 🤕🤕
love the old mother boards got a few my self that need a new home ;)
an AT board with AGP? crazy
As a follow-up for your audience. The first Slot 1 board you unwrapped is an Intel RC440BX. The integrated video chipset is a 4MB Nvidia Riva 128. I believe the maximum CPU the board supports are Katmai P3s. If I also remember correctly, the chipset is labeled BX but is actually the ZX variant which is more limited in RAM capacity (hence the 2 slots instead of 3 or 4)
Какой уксус и сколько процентов лучше использовать ?
Обычный столовый уксус. Я беру 10-15%, но его долго оставлять нельзя, надо через минут 10 смывать. Можно и поменьше процентов брать, даже 3% работает, но надо минут 20 ждать, пока он сработает. Если уксус не нравится, там запах противный, тогда можно концентрированный лимонный сок или любую другую слабую кислоту.
Oh my. As you started going through the boards I got to thinking that I wish I hadn't thrown my pentium III board away when it died (i did keep the processor). Little did I know that it might have been repaired someday. I spent hours looking for the right board back then. My father bought me (some years earlier) a full size tower that I used for years. When I went to upgrade, AT motherboards were very rare. I found one that would support a Pentium 3. Fast foward to the present, and there it is...The Tyan S1830S. I look forward to seeing what you do with it. Oh, as a side note, I recently picked up a lil 386 board like that first one you pulled out of the box. It needs a little work, as the battery has causes a little damage.
I think I saw that auction and decided not to bid on it ;)
That wasn't an auction, it was sold for a fixed price. I didn't know, if I'd have time to take care about it, but after some days where nobody wanted it, I decided to take it eventually. I still have no time, but now I have no choice, but to make a repairathon ;)
Glad to have you back in the saddle with these repair-a-thons. I'll be looking forward to seeing you attempt to fix these.
What Ratio of Water + Vinegar do you use to neutralize electrolyte leaks ?
I use 10%, but everything between 3% and 15% is ok. You just have to wash the board as soon as possible, if you use high concentration. To get some experience, I'd suggest to stay around 5% This gives you a lot of time to clean everything.
@@necro_ware Thanks. Any idea why I'm not getting composite signal out of a Toshiba MSX HX10. RF works fine.
That is a nice haul! Good luck on the repairing endeavors!
Why would anyone rip the bios roms out? They are typically not even erasable, they are One-Time-Programmable roms, you can't even reuse them. :-D
Well, you can reuse them. You mix (E)EPROMs and PROMs, where (E)E stands for (Electrically)Erasable. More than that, on the mainboards starting with Pentium, (E)EPROMs were replaced by flash ROMs, to be able to write PnP data into it. So they are very well reusable. I also pull them from the boards, which are definitely beyond any repair, or industry boards worthless from today's point of view.
@@necro_ware yeah, on second thought you're probably right. I was thinking of that 486 board I was dealing with. It had a UV-erasable prom, but with no window for erasing, so you can't actually erase it. I had to replace it to update the bios. But newer machines should have electrically erasable memory, if nothing else, for updating the bios. But then again. Aren't they like a buck a piece on aliexpress?
@@LambertZero Yes, they are, but people also cut off the gold plated edge connectors hoping to get rich. Nobody canceled stupidity so far.
@@necro_ware lol, you know, I'm from russia, and yes, I know exactly what you're talking about. I've seen it up close in the 90s. :-D People were hunting for tantalum capacitors too. But I thought we were past that. :-D
@@LambertZero Unfortunately we obviously aren't, taking into account what currently happens.
Can’t wait to see them all repaired 😀
I don't understand why to repair old from 386 and UP, those are not classics, and any modern PC can run the software those used to run. It is not like original IBM and clones as its software rely on the exact CPU CLOCK speed and buses yeld to run games in correct speed. And also they are not considered classic, like and PS2 IBM would be (for said, the same era).