Easy to follow video. I also use resin to repair FDM models. Typically with a small paintbrush like you showed but resin with a tad bit of babypowder. It can also be used to smooth parts, but that requires sanding and multiple applications, but for repairs, resin works for many things.
I've been using the same technique for repairs! Works wonders ands saves a lot of resin. It's also great for filling small holes that are needed for resin draining in certain prints. I definitely recommend gloves and UV glasses though!
@@vogman I always do thin painting and lights from the edges. i have never had one split. but I haven't broken them open to see if there was any uncured film maybe I should do a test piece and check.
You're quite right, gloves really are a must and I should have said so. But this model had already been uv cured and I was happy enough I'd miss my fingers with the small brush. But thanks for picking up on that. My bad. 😁😁😁
I’ve used resin to fix or smooth out my FDM prints as well, I’ve yet to include baby powder in the mix but the more I’ve seen it used for the particularly nasty repairs, the more I wanna try it. I liked your technique here with the resin prints, particularly about helping the join pieces. I had to do this to fix a print as I was joining it and now am doing it more often to help add a little bit of strength around the connections.
The extra strength is surprising. I tend to use super glue, but of course it's very brittle. But when you cover with even a thin coating of resin, it seems to become one solid item 😁
Hello Vogman, I printed a small rocket keychain. It is about 2cm in size and I left a 2mm drainage hole, but after two weeks I noticed that it cracked for no reason and resin was leaking from it. What would be your advice in such cases?
Ah, brilliant as usual... Same technique I use. I have a small 3xAAA UV torch that I use to set the resin and then put it under the big mama (not the mrs.. Let's be pretty clear on that 😂😂😂😂😂) to cure the part properly..
I have been using resin to repair ABS parts. Not printed ones, just stuff that broke. For larger parts, afterwards blasting it with a really large UV light is necessary.
Great video. I was wondering, could this be a good way to cure UV cured resin when dealing with articulated prints? (like your cuban chainlink or dragon prints) I don't mean the ENTIRE print, just these hard to reach places.
I was thinking about this for a few days now, so I want to discuss something with you. You mentioned to buy a 405nm uv light and not a 395. But didn’t you mean 365nm? Because 395 and 405 is so freaking close in the spectrum. I have to explain me a bit more here. I do this for a servers time now. (Not that I’m an expert or maybe I’m lucky with all the different resins I tried) but I glue my resin sometimes with a cheap 395 led on a 9v battery or a 2 dollar battery flashlight. Whitout any problem cures whitin a second. On clears gray and black resin of serveral brands. So i tought was I wrong? Or is my flashlight 405nm maybe. But is was not. Al my curing led’s and flashlights are 395nm. It crept be buis so I thought I mention it. I do thing 365 won’t work. But I guess 395 and 405 both do the job (for me at least)
_"Eyelids are free"_ They are indeed :) Good one. For the people who find themselves in a situation where they still need to see where they shine but want to remain cheap, you could use a chips bag or granola bar wrapper (or similar). Just pull it inside out, keep the layers flat against eachother and hold it close to your eyes (if needed, keep in place with your regular goggles). The alumin(i)um layer acts as a UV shield, because that's exactly what it needs to do to protect your food too. However, I would not suggest someone to make this into a permanent PPE for daily use, because when you expose yourself so regularly that you need it to be a proper tool, then for sure it's always a better option to buy the real deal. For the occasional hobbyist though, there's always a candy wrapper or chips bag lying around somewhere in or near the recycle bin...
Actually, green tinted plastic bottle (from my experience) seem to prevent UV penetration. One of these would be easy to cut up into a basic eye / face visor 😁
@@vogman I haven't tested that one, I'll have to look into it. It's possible that certain green pigments in PET reflect or absorb UV. Otoh, green PET is not very common here in Belgium. Most of it is clear now (I believe it's for recycling purposes). How did you figure out it blocks UV? I suppose certain orange/red pigments are very efficient too, because that's what the printer covers are made with :) If you ever have to throw away one of your resin printers or even better one of your UV curing units, you can keep the transparent cover pieces because they will most definitely block UV. Not sure how it would be applied, but fun fact: a very strong UV reflector is urine. Maybe pee in a (green) bottle is a great translucent UV filter hahahahaha
I hear mixing resin with baby powder works as a good filler for places that need more than just a light coat. Like those gaps between the hips and the torso.
I don't believe so. There's no hard and fast rule about curing, other than under-curing can in time lead to shrinkage / cracking. But honestly, who can say. I have dozens of prints that are a number of years old and so far my keenness to cure well hasn't led to issues. Fingers crossed 😁
Regarding cheaper UV flashlights with 395 um wavelength - actually, photoiniciators in photopolymer (aka UV resin) do not react with one and only wavelength. In a diagram it's not a peak, it's rather a knoll of standart distribution around target wavelength. I mean, they will work just fine on UV resin too, maybe 5..10% less effective.
I always use my leftover Resin for this. Not enough of a color for a whole print? -> Repair Resin it is! Add Babypowder to adjust the Consistency if needed.
![3D resin print supports [EASY GUIDE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MU0Cq_bjhy4/mqdefault.jpg)
![3D resin print supports [EASY GUIDE]](/img/tr.png)
Easy to follow video. I also use resin to repair FDM models. Typically with a small paintbrush like you showed but resin with a tad bit of babypowder. It can also be used to smooth parts, but that requires sanding and multiple applications, but for repairs, resin works for many things.
What a great tip, thanks for that 😁😁😁
I've been using the same technique for repairs! Works wonders ands saves a lot of resin. It's also great for filling small holes that are needed for resin draining in certain prints. I definitely recommend gloves and UV glasses though!
Yes, I've been a bity lax on safety here.
This is a really good tip. I've been using the clear uv glue.
that filling way is what I do for joining the model. hands and legs I prefer that over glue and haven't had any issues with it
I've always avoided using it as glue and I worry about uncured resin. But if you haven't had any issues, maybe I'm worrying for no reason 😁
@@vogman I always do thin painting and lights from the edges. i have never had one split. but I haven't broken them open to see if there was any uncured film maybe I should do a test piece and check.
At first I was worried about you not wearing gloves then saw how neat you were and realized, it’s me I’m messy I need gloves.
You're quite right, gloves really are a must and I should have said so. But this model had already been uv cured and I was happy enough I'd miss my fingers with the small brush. But thanks for picking up on that. My bad. 😁😁😁
I must admit I’m guilty of never wearing gloves, I’d better position myself facing the wall in the naughty corner 😮
I've been there many times... 😁
I’ve used resin to fix or smooth out my FDM prints as well, I’ve yet to include baby powder in the mix but the more I’ve seen it used for the particularly nasty repairs, the more I wanna try it.
I liked your technique here with the resin prints, particularly about helping the join pieces.
I had to do this to fix a print as I was joining it and now am doing it more often to help add a little bit of strength around the connections.
The extra strength is surprising. I tend to use super glue, but of course it's very brittle. But when you cover with even a thin coating of resin, it seems to become one solid item 😁
I stumbled into doing this with a recent print I made! Glad to know I'm on the right track with my thinking! Thank you for the great video!
It really is a learn by doing kind of hobby 😁
Hello Vogman, I printed a small rocket keychain. It is about 2cm in size and I left a 2mm drainage hole, but after two weeks I noticed that it cracked for no reason and resin was leaking from it. What would be your advice in such cases?
I’ve used that technique many times especially when I’ve broken off a delicate part but on model railway wagons not Orcs bottoms
Ah, well... painting orcs bottoms takes a great deal of care... it's not something to attempt without a good exit strategy. 😁😁😁
Waiting for my first resin printer to arrive, (GK2) Saving this video for future reference.
You'll love it. Very convenient in-built heater and very capable printer.
@@vogman I let Uniformation know that you played a big role in my purchase.
Ah, brilliant as usual... Same technique I use. I have a small 3xAAA UV torch that I use to set the resin and then put it under the big mama (not the mrs.. Let's be pretty clear on that 😂😂😂😂😂) to cure the part properly..
I have been using resin to repair ABS parts. Not printed ones, just stuff that broke. For larger parts, afterwards blasting it with a really large UV light is necessary.
Good idea 😁
Great video. I was wondering, could this be a good way to cure UV cured resin when dealing with articulated prints? (like your cuban chainlink or dragon prints)
I don't mean the ENTIRE print, just these hard to reach places.
Possibly. Just wear gloves and safety glasses (unlike me - d'oh!)
I was thinking about this for a few days now, so I want to discuss something with you. You mentioned to buy a 405nm uv light and not a 395. But didn’t you mean 365nm? Because 395 and 405 is so freaking close in the spectrum.
I have to explain me a bit more here. I do this for a servers time now. (Not that I’m an expert or maybe I’m lucky with all the different resins I tried) but I glue my resin sometimes with a cheap 395 led on a 9v battery or a 2 dollar battery flashlight. Whitout any problem cures whitin a second. On clears gray and black resin of serveral brands.
So i tought was I wrong? Or is my flashlight 405nm maybe. But is was not. Al my curing led’s and flashlights are 395nm.
It crept be buis so I thought I mention it.
I do thing 365 won’t work. But I guess 395 and 405 both do the job (for me at least)
_"Eyelids are free"_ They are indeed :) Good one.
For the people who find themselves in a situation where they still need to see where they shine but want to remain cheap, you could use a chips bag or granola bar wrapper (or similar). Just pull it inside out, keep the layers flat against eachother and hold it close to your eyes (if needed, keep in place with your regular goggles). The alumin(i)um layer acts as a UV shield, because that's exactly what it needs to do to protect your food too. However, I would not suggest someone to make this into a permanent PPE for daily use, because when you expose yourself so regularly that you need it to be a proper tool, then for sure it's always a better option to buy the real deal. For the occasional hobbyist though, there's always a candy wrapper or chips bag lying around somewhere in or near the recycle bin...
Actually, green tinted plastic bottle (from my experience) seem to prevent UV penetration. One of these would be easy to cut up into a basic eye / face visor 😁
@@vogman I haven't tested that one, I'll have to look into it. It's possible that certain green pigments in PET reflect or absorb UV. Otoh, green PET is not very common here in Belgium. Most of it is clear now (I believe it's for recycling purposes).
How did you figure out it blocks UV? I suppose certain orange/red pigments are very efficient too, because that's what the printer covers are made with :) If you ever have to throw away one of your resin printers or even better one of your UV curing units, you can keep the transparent cover pieces because they will most definitely block UV.
Not sure how it would be applied, but fun fact: a very strong UV reflector is urine. Maybe pee in a (green) bottle is a great translucent UV filter hahahahaha
I hear mixing resin with baby powder works as a good filler for places that need more than just a light coat. Like those gaps between the hips and the torso.
Great tip!
Doesn't blasting the model for 10 more minutes in the curing station (or during repairs) weaken the resin at all?
I don't believe so. There's no hard and fast rule about curing, other than under-curing can in time lead to shrinkage / cracking. But honestly, who can say. I have dozens of prints that are a number of years old and so far my keenness to cure well hasn't led to issues. Fingers crossed 😁
Regarding cheaper UV flashlights with 395 um wavelength - actually, photoiniciators in photopolymer (aka UV resin) do not react with one and only wavelength.
In a diagram it's not a peak, it's rather a knoll of standart distribution around target wavelength.
I mean, they will work just fine on UV resin too, maybe 5..10% less effective.
Interesting 😁
Yes, i've bought 395nm flashlight and it works fine (at least with prozen aqua gray and resione k resins which i've used).
@@VitaminchikD yep, that's what I'm talking about.
I always use my leftover Resin for this. Not enough of a color for a whole print? -> Repair Resin it is!
Add Babypowder to adjust the Consistency if needed.
A few have mentioned that now... it's not something I'd heard of before. Thanks for sharing. 😁
Great video whis baby powder our resin is more easy too work why’s 😁
Many thanks 😁
#LLVM
Lazy Laborious VogMan...? 😁😁😁
@@vogman not with the quality of videos you put out.