What do you think of install of a thermos to keep part of coolant hot for the next start, my Prius gen2 has a built in such device. I saw on other Russian RUclips channel guy was having fun with thermos installed...
This is the second time in a year I had this failure (Code P20CA-008- left rear wheel signal) so I replaced the sensor in hopes the 1st sensor went bad. I should've know it couldn't be that easy. North East car that sees rain and snow so it's no surprise this is probably the culprit. This is a great tutorial on exactly what to do and expect. I imagine the worst part is getting the axle out of the hub, followed by getting the arms all back in place. Thanks so much for the video
Thanks for the video. I did this last summer on a BMW and also had to use a sledge hammer to shift the splined shaft. In my case a good branded replacement shaft with 2x CVs was about $130 so I chose to replace the whole sub-assembly, rather than the much cheaper ring, given how much time I knew I was going to have invested in the job.
Thankyou for your very imformative video. It gave mw confidence to go ahead a do this job myself. A friend of mine lent me his lift, which was invaluable!. Also, a bonus, he had just aquired a new Milwaukee impact wrench!. I found that this job took me around 4 hours also. I was able to complete the job without removing the rotor, but still had to remove the caliper. I was able to get the impact wrench on to most of the bolts too, which was great. As you said in your video, this job is not for novices. Glad I watched, your video, it has saved me lots of money. I am guessing around $300. Thanks again
Love the 'tools you will need advice', great talk-over. Perhaps you can link to a video onhow to replace the 'speed sensors'. In addition, what could add value, is to list the symptoms of these faulty parts e.g. RWD Vito wheels spin on uneven road surface, ASR off stops the issue for a few minutes. If I power off while ASR on, the slipping stops until power on over any uneven surface e.g. potholes etc ...
I am currently having an issue with this problem. I had taken my car to local dealer and had the front sensors replaced due to the ESP/ABS light illuminating and all the shifting issues that come with that issue. It is odd that the tech didn’t know this about the ESP/ABS codes. They changed the sensors and got the code that the tone ring was damaged after the test drive. So of course they quoted me a ridiculous amount to change and rectify the issue (1710.00). Not only were they trying to charge me for the whole axle assembly, which cost about 700.00 they wanted to charge 1000.00 for labor. I do understand now by watching this all that you have to go through to remove down to the axle. So I am having a friend go through changing it out for me. I have a 2007 R350, but he is going to remove and change the axle shaft. We got it for under 100.00 and he is not charging much for the labor. I am glad I watched this process to know everything about my vehicle. I just learned how to change the oil and transmission fluid. Along with the air filters and cabin filters. Spark plugs and coil packs. RUclips is awesome to learn things about doing the maintenance yourself.
I diagnosed the rear right ABS fault using an iCarsoft unit to read the code. The fault was intermittent at first, usually coming on during a long motorway drive, so I tried cleaning the sensor; the fault then came on every time after getting up to about 10mph. The iCarsoft can run tests while driving; it can measure speed at each sensor, rotational direction (forward/backwards) and also 'gap'. Speed at each sensor was fine (all showed the same speed), but the gap at the faulty wheel was a different case: when stationary, all sensors read as 'invalid'; as you slowly move off, say 5mph, they all read as 'limit - ok'; and at about 10mph three read 'ok' and the faulty wheel reads 'not ok' and the stored fault message does mention 'check gap'. I put a new sensor in, and the fault went away, but that wheel was the last to move off 'limit - ok' to 'ok' when I retested the live gap readings, so I did wonder if the reluctor ring was on the edge of failing. With the sensor removed, looking into the hole with a torch and rotating the driveshaft, the sensor ring did appear a bit rough as if bits had worn off. Anyway, wind forward about 6 weeks, and the fault is back; the iCarsoft fault codes and live readings are per the previous fault 6 weeks ago. Thanks to this excellent video, I have ordered a new reluctor ring from Mercedes, it was only £20, and I was all set to perform the surgery today... until I read all of the comments this morning and noticed that one of them mentioned that the suspension needed to be loaded before tightening the various nuts and bolts 😮. On investigation, that is absolutely correct, and having read lots of articles and checked my Haynes manual, if you do not do this, then the various rubber bushings are stressed [in a bad way] when the suspension is loaded and will fail prematurity. My problem is that tightening those joints in-situ with the wheel on and the car back on the ground is pretty difficult on a ramp, and I would say 'impossible' on my driveway at home! Any thoughts?
Hi, thanks for the video. A few days ago, I had a worn hub like noise. It has now stopped but I have all the error messages shown in the video plus when I take off with the wheels turned, it is like the brakes pulsate briefly. The scanner has no reading from the rear right abs sensor. I took it off and cleaned it but with no success. My guess is that the hub like noise was the ring deteriorating. Should I go ahead and change the ring first of replace both sensor and ring, or even sensor alone? I don't intend to do the ring myself. My car is a 2009 w204
The dealer from Nottingham quoted to 350 pounds for the labour, new ring and sensor 27 pounds on ebay,I have the same issue and will be a little fun to do this job, great video
My axle-diameter at the ABS-ring spot is 82mm. Its a W204 chassi. The ABS ring I got was 80.5 mm dia. No way to get it onto the axle.Anyone has an idea on what to do? The workshop manual says to use a special press-on tool, but I cannot see how one can press a 80.5 ring onto a 82mm axle without the ring splitting in two....
Do you have a part number for the rear ABS sensor magnet ring or do you he a link to the site you got the part. Problem is identical to what i'm experiencing.
I'm getting a right rear wheel speed sensor error code now with ABS/ESP lights on after replacing the wheel bearing. Side note, the whole wheel carrier does NOT have to be removed in order to access the 4 bolts that hold the bearing hub on for folks replacing your wheel bearing! My axle shaft was very stuck and had to rent a tool to press it in while hitting with an sledge hammer. Somehow I either damaged the sensor or the ring. Hopefully its the sensor so I don't have to take whole thing apart again
I have 4 malfunctions :ESP BRAKE ABS BAS still after replacing both Speed Sensors. OBD2 and MB scanner said replace sensors. I hate this shit. Should have bought a Hyundai. Any advice? I’m so screwed.
@@jasonhitch660 maybe its the magnet ring like this video points out. That's what it was on my car. It didn't go bad on its own though in my case. I accidentally damaged it while replacing the rear wheel bearing
An answer to a 3-year-old question I know, but in case anyone else needs to know, it is 32mm as mentioned in the video when he talks about putting the nut back on loosely to drift the shaft out.
Hey i am also having the abs/esp issue and the steering is heavy. When i turn on the car there are no faults and i HAVE power steering.. BUT once i go over a hard bump in the road the ABS/ESP warning lights turn back on and i LOSE power steering. Would this be because of the ring?
Matt C yea the wheel speed sensor caused a few things to deactivate. I.E the power steering, abs system, and the stability control system. And the sensor was from FCP euro
have same Issue ABS/ESP, TMPS and no power steering, I oredered the parts but since its like end of the year im without the car haha, I hope its only the ws sensor :D, and I will be doing power steering fluid flush just in case :D Just when you think that year 2020 cant be worse it hits you
I have 4 malfunctions after replacing speed sensors. BRAK ESP ABS BAS. I don’t know what to do. Four mechanics in my area say 4 different things. Trust no one. You have any ideas?
Hey great vids I've watched so far while diagnosing issues with my 2005 e220.... quick question do u know why my reduced braking pressure error has came up would be great help if you know.. thankyou
i have a 2008 w211 has been parked for the last 9 months, abs fault was showing was told 2 rear abs sensor and 1 front need replacing, ended up replacing all 4 and fault still showing, had it cleared but shows up again, fault code showing as 4497 rear left and right rotar, could this be the reluctor rings either need changing or just cleaning as car not moved for 9 months, also i realised car will not shift out of 1st gear (automatic gearbox) have been told this is because rear abs sensors not working
Did you ever end up solving your issue? You need a real scanner to tell you which of the sensors is bad. Like the iCarsoft etc. You may even have a bad SBC unit.
@@Triggerman2505 it was both rear abs reluctor rings, as soon as i replaced them, abs light went off and as soon as i drove the car went through all gears perfectly, car running smooth now
@@user-zy8jh7sf7p good to hear. I replace the passenger side rear, and everything went back to normal in two days later now the left rear is throwing a code. So exactly the same as yours.
You did it wrong !!! You suppose to load the suspension before torquening to specs. All your rubber bushings are under stress won't last a month before they rip out!!! Bad job!!!
MBDieselFreak me neither I did all that work only to be told by the dealer that they would have done it for free under the extended warranty. I was not too happy after hearing that 😂
@@kwoods3379 MB Extended warranty letter on the SBC does indicate they'll cover front and rear speed sensor replacement but does NOT mention the ABS ring. True its part of the system but wonder if they really would replace that for free too!?
rent a hub puller from Auto Zone. Tighten it up against the shaft (leave nut on) and sledge hammer it. repeat several times. it will eventually push in
BRAKE EBV, ABS, ESP inoperative Diagnosis/Rig Test. If your Continually getting this error, just Completely DISABLE the ABS in order to drive home, do burn outs, etc. BRAKE EBV, ABS, ESP inoperative Diagnosis/Rig Test.
After replacing the Speed Sensors, I still get 4 malfunctions: BAS, ABS, BRAKE, ESP. What the hell? Scanner said sensors. Should I replace the rings? Please help!
ABS/ESP lights on the dash, hard to turn power steering, and a wheel speed sensor code in the ESP module. i replaced the sensor itself first, but the problem remained!
@@MBDieselFreak thanx for reply. Just purchased 05 e320cdi with 205k and i'm enjoying watching your videos. I dont care much about modifying cars but keeping them alive. Just curious, How is the tranny on your wife's car after the refreshment?
@@racingtoy2000 tranny rebuild was on my CDI with 460k miles. the car im working on in this video is a friends. The transmission is still doing great! shifting better than ever.
@@sercanalkcam3156 good question! Only after the car starts moving does the abs light come on with a magnet ring failure. When the sensor itself is bad, it throws a constant code regardless of whether the car is moving or not
MBDieselFreak PLEASE edit your title to say, ABS RELUCTOR ring rather than ABS Magnet Ring. May be easier to find. Also people searching for Mercedes Brake Rig Test(Procedure) is more than likely experiencing a Bad Reluctor Ring as you have and don’t even know it. Great video BTW!
@@sebhaya you did all the work to replace the ring and the new sensor was defective? I am asking because we just had a sensor replaced, haven’t done the ring yet but I would hate to do all that work only to find it was a defective new sensor. Thanks
@@markspencerfpv In my case the outer plastic part of the ring had come loose from the inner metal part, and jammed itself inside of the housing. So, when I looked into the sensor hole I really didnt understand what I saw. There was nothing moving in there .... I took the sensor and held it close to 4 magnets spinning on a drill, and could then see the rpm changing, using a scanner tool. I made a video on it. ruclips.net/video/Fa1YuqA267Y/видео.html Clearly, when the sensor works as a stand alone unit towards some rotating magnets, the ABS ring is damaged.
Shutout to the loyal peeps that saw the original upload title that i forgot to change.
What do you think of install of a thermos to keep part of coolant hot for the next start, my Prius gen2 has a built in such device. I saw on other Russian RUclips channel guy was having fun with thermos installed...
This is the second time in a year I had this failure (Code P20CA-008- left rear wheel signal) so I replaced the sensor in hopes the 1st sensor went bad. I should've know it couldn't be that easy. North East car that sees rain and snow so it's no surprise this is probably the culprit. This is a great tutorial on exactly what to do and expect. I imagine the worst part is getting the axle out of the hub, followed by getting the arms all back in place. Thanks so much for the video
Thanks for the video. I did this last summer on a BMW and also had to use a sledge hammer to shift the splined shaft. In my case a good branded replacement shaft with 2x CVs was about $130 so I chose to replace the whole sub-assembly, rather than the much cheaper ring, given how much time I knew I was going to have invested in the job.
Thankyou for your very imformative video. It gave mw confidence to go ahead a do this job myself. A friend of mine lent me his lift, which was invaluable!. Also, a bonus, he had just aquired a new Milwaukee impact wrench!. I found that this job took me around 4 hours also. I was able to complete the job without removing the rotor, but still had to remove the caliper. I was able to get the impact wrench on to most of the bolts too, which was great. As you said in your video, this job is not for novices. Glad I watched, your video, it has saved me lots of money. I am guessing around $300. Thanks again
Thanx for the nice video, on replacing the ABS ring on the rear wheel !!
Love the 'tools you will need advice', great talk-over. Perhaps you can link to a video onhow to replace the 'speed sensors'.
In addition, what could add value, is to list the symptoms of these faulty parts e.g.
RWD Vito wheels spin on uneven road surface, ASR off stops the issue for a few minutes.
If I power off while ASR on, the slipping stops until power on over any uneven surface e.g. potholes etc ...
Very good information . Excellent comm skills too.
Great video. Nice editing
Good job! easy to follow
Well done!
You made me realize, i need to bring my car in for this repair. Cuz heck no!!! Great video! Thanks😁
very well explained
I am currently having an issue with this problem. I had taken my car to local dealer and had the front sensors replaced due to the ESP/ABS light illuminating and all the shifting issues that come with that issue. It is odd that the tech didn’t know this about the ESP/ABS codes. They changed the sensors and got the code that the tone ring was damaged after the test drive. So of course they quoted me a ridiculous amount to change and rectify the issue (1710.00). Not only were they trying to charge me for the whole axle assembly, which cost about 700.00 they wanted to charge 1000.00 for labor. I do understand now by watching this all that you have to go through to remove down to the axle. So I am having a friend go through changing it out for me. I have a 2007 R350, but he is going to remove and change the axle shaft. We got it for under 100.00 and he is not charging much for the labor. I am glad I watched this process to know everything about my vehicle. I just learned how to change the oil and transmission fluid. Along with the air filters and cabin filters. Spark plugs and coil packs. RUclips is awesome to learn things about doing the maintenance yourself.
Good job
Nice beat🎧
Super Video
great video
I diagnosed the rear right ABS fault using an iCarsoft unit to read the code. The fault was intermittent at first, usually coming on during a long motorway drive, so I tried cleaning the sensor; the fault then came on every time after getting up to about 10mph. The iCarsoft can run tests while driving; it can measure speed at each sensor, rotational direction (forward/backwards) and also 'gap'. Speed at each sensor was fine (all showed the same speed), but the gap at the faulty wheel was a different case: when stationary, all sensors read as 'invalid'; as you slowly move off, say 5mph, they all read as 'limit - ok'; and at about 10mph three read 'ok' and the faulty wheel reads 'not ok' and the stored fault message does mention 'check gap'. I put a new sensor in, and the fault went away, but that wheel was the last to move off 'limit - ok' to 'ok' when I retested the live gap readings, so I did wonder if the reluctor ring was on the edge of failing. With the sensor removed, looking into the hole with a torch and rotating the driveshaft, the sensor ring did appear a bit rough as if bits had worn off. Anyway, wind forward about 6 weeks, and the fault is back; the iCarsoft fault codes and live readings are per the previous fault 6 weeks ago. Thanks to this excellent video, I have ordered a new reluctor ring from Mercedes, it was only £20, and I was all set to perform the surgery today... until I read all of the comments this morning and noticed that one of them mentioned that the suspension needed to be loaded before tightening the various nuts and bolts 😮. On investigation, that is absolutely correct, and having read lots of articles and checked my Haynes manual, if you do not do this, then the various rubber bushings are stressed [in a bad way] when the suspension is loaded and will fail prematurity. My problem is that tightening those joints in-situ with the wheel on and the car back on the ground is pretty difficult on a ramp, and I would say 'impossible' on my driveway at home! Any thoughts?
The part is 40 bucks but the labor cost is the killer lol
XZN Triple Squares, such a random set to have in the drawer!
Brilliant video. Thank You
I think the ABs Rings on these fail much quicker than the sensor
Hi, your movie IS very nice, i follow it for change thé ring. Thanks a lot 🎉
trés bonne explication j'attaque demain sur ma e220cdi Merci
Hi, thanks for the video.
A few days ago, I had a worn hub like noise.
It has now stopped but I have all the error messages shown in the video plus when I take off with the wheels turned, it is like the brakes pulsate briefly.
The scanner has no reading from the rear right abs sensor. I took it off and cleaned it but with no success.
My guess is that the hub like noise was the ring deteriorating.
Should I go ahead and change the ring first of replace both sensor and ring, or even sensor alone? I don't intend to do the ring myself. My car is a 2009 w204
The dealer from Nottingham quoted to 350 pounds for the labour, new ring and sensor 27 pounds on ebay,I have the same issue and will be a little fun to do this job, great video
Hi, e350 4 matic 2005 combi whats the dimmensions of the ring ? Showing a lot of different dimmensions on the order side 80,5 - 81 - 80,9 ??
My axle-diameter at the ABS-ring spot is 82mm. Its a W204 chassi. The ABS ring I got was 80.5 mm dia. No way to get it onto the axle.Anyone has an idea on what to do? The workshop manual says to use a special press-on tool, but I cannot see how one can press a 80.5 ring onto a 82mm axle without the ring splitting in two....
All control arms should be tighten into their natural position.
Do you have a part number for the rear ABS sensor magnet ring or do you he a link to the site you got the part. Problem is identical to what i'm experiencing.
BRAKE
EBV, ABS, ESP inoperative Diagnosis/Rig Test.
A BAD Reluctor Ring was causing the Error Code above for me.
Thanks for the Video/Time!
Glad I paid to have it done now,a bastod job that's definately outside my skillset
Would it trigger a break light ?
Could this cause the transmission to go in limp mode only stuck in second gear and won't shift
no
I see quite a bit of surface rust. Do you think the rust caused the ring to bond to the inner knuckle after it being left parked for a while?
What's size of the axle Nut ?
I'm getting a right rear wheel speed sensor error code now with ABS/ESP lights on after replacing the wheel bearing. Side note, the whole wheel carrier does NOT have to be removed in order to access the 4 bolts that hold the bearing hub on for folks replacing your wheel bearing! My axle shaft was very stuck and had to rent a tool to press it in while hitting with an sledge hammer. Somehow I either damaged the sensor or the ring. Hopefully its the sensor so I don't have to take whole thing apart again
I have 4 malfunctions :ESP BRAKE ABS BAS still after replacing both Speed Sensors. OBD2 and MB scanner said replace sensors. I hate this shit. Should have bought a Hyundai. Any advice? I’m so screwed.
@@jasonhitch660 maybe its the magnet ring like this video points out. That's what it was on my car. It didn't go bad on its own though in my case. I accidentally damaged it while replacing the rear wheel bearing
Great video,does the cdi speedometer rely on the the abs sensors?
No, only the ESP and ABS. The speedometer reads off the front axle.
Can you write me please if you know is it possible to do this job without deflate suspension air bag?
You're going to have to deflate and remove the airbag to do this job most likely. If not, great, but I would prepare for the worst case scenerio
Nice video!! What is the size of socket for the axle nut? Thanks!
An answer to a 3-year-old question I know, but in case anyone else needs to know, it is 32mm as mentioned in the video when he talks about putting the nut back on loosely to drift the shaft out.
thanks! but he dont say 3:30
@@nicholasdavidroberts
Hey i am also having the abs/esp issue and the steering is heavy. When i turn on the car there are no faults and i HAVE power steering.. BUT once i go over a hard bump in the road the ABS/ESP warning lights turn back on and i LOSE power steering. Would this be because of the ring?
Matt C lol i been fixed it, i think next day i fixed it... it was just a wheel speed sensor 😂, took like 5min to swap out
Matt C yea the wheel speed sensor caused a few things to deactivate. I.E the power steering, abs system, and the stability control system. And the sensor was from FCP euro
have same Issue ABS/ESP, TMPS and no power steering, I oredered the parts but since its like end of the year im without the car haha, I hope its only the ws sensor :D, and I will be doing power steering fluid flush just in case :D Just when you think that year 2020 cant be worse it hits you
I have 4 malfunctions after replacing speed sensors. BRAK ESP ABS BAS. I don’t know what to do. Four mechanics in my area say 4 different things. Trust no one. You have any ideas?
HELP!!!
You left out the hardest part of getting the hub off the shaft boo
Hey great vids I've watched so far while diagnosing issues with my 2005 e220.... quick question do u know why my reduced braking pressure error has came up would be great help if you know.. thankyou
does your car has SBC?
my w211 front shocks still say "04" :D
i have a 2008 w211 has been parked for the last 9 months, abs fault was showing was told 2 rear abs sensor and 1 front need replacing, ended up replacing all 4 and fault still showing, had it cleared but shows up again, fault code showing as 4497 rear left and right rotar, could this be the reluctor rings either need changing or just cleaning as car not moved for 9 months, also i realised car will not shift out of 1st gear (automatic gearbox) have been told this is because rear abs sensors not working
Did you ever end up solving your issue? You need a real scanner to tell you which of the sensors is bad. Like the iCarsoft etc. You may even have a bad SBC unit.
@@Triggerman2505 it was both rear abs reluctor rings, as soon as i replaced them, abs light went off and as soon as i drove the car went through all gears perfectly, car running smooth now
@@user-zy8jh7sf7p good to hear. I replace the passenger side rear, and everything went back to normal in two days later now the left rear is throwing a code. So exactly the same as yours.
You did it wrong !!! You suppose to load the suspension before torquening to specs.
All your rubber bushings are under stress won't last a month before they rip out!!!
Bad job!!!
You removed the beake calipers without deactivating the SBC pump???
I locked the car and kept the key inside. There's no way for SBC to ready check unless a door is opened or the car is unlocked
Would disconnecting the battery disable the sbc pump as well? If not, whatis the best way to disable the sbc pump? Thx
@@Perubeast I think it can be disabled using a scan tool. Not the cheapest scan tool but a bidirectional like ICarsoft Pro.
Ahh this was a really fun job only to find out that it’s covered under the new warranty
is it really?! never would have thought it would have been covered under the SBC warranty.
MBDieselFreak me neither I did all that work only to be told by the dealer that they would have done it for free under the extended warranty. I was not too happy after hearing that 😂
@@kwoods3379 MB Extended warranty letter on the SBC does indicate they'll cover front and rear speed sensor replacement but does NOT mention the ABS ring. True its part of the system but wonder if they really would replace that for free too!?
Thanks for the nice Video 👍🏼
I can't get the shaft off - tried your advice too :/
Anyone other ideas? Would be very helpfull guys
rent a hub puller from Auto Zone. Tighten it up against the shaft (leave nut on) and sledge hammer it. repeat several times. it will eventually push in
@@mascho22 thanks a lot. It worked with the sledgehammer (& very hard hits)
BRAKE
EBV, ABS, ESP inoperative Diagnosis/Rig Test.
If your Continually getting this error, just Completely DISABLE the ABS in order to drive home, do burn outs, etc.
BRAKE
EBV, ABS, ESP inoperative Diagnosis/Rig Test.
After replacing the Speed Sensors, I still get 4 malfunctions: BAS, ABS, BRAKE, ESP. What the hell? Scanner said sensors. Should I replace the rings? Please help!
replace abs dynamic module or just reset (unplug cable from the module)
@@bububash3778 Hey. I also replaced One front speed sensor. How do i have to reset? I stil have error on my display.
I had to replace the ring.
Can you please give us the part number of the ring?
Did you ever get it??
@@MikeNotSalty yes, I have a video that explains it in detail.
@@MikeNotSalty View my video
@@lionsdejudah just need the part number of the ring, if you could reply with it please! Thanks
I replaced it now my car won’t shift ? 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
What was the indication of a worn ring?
ABS/ESP lights on the dash, hard to turn power steering, and a wheel speed sensor code in the ESP module.
i replaced the sensor itself first, but the problem remained!
@@MBDieselFreak thanx for reply. Just purchased 05 e320cdi with 205k and i'm enjoying watching your videos. I dont care much about modifying cars but keeping them alive. Just curious, How is the tranny on your wife's car after the refreshment?
@@racingtoy2000 tranny rebuild was on my CDI with 460k miles. the car im working on in this video is a friends.
The transmission is still doing great! shifting better than ever.
@@MBDieselFreak
Does the Abs esp light comes directly with start.
Or after ride a few meters?
@@sercanalkcam3156 good question! Only after the car starts moving does the abs light come on with a magnet ring failure. When the sensor itself is bad, it throws a constant code regardless of whether the car is moving or not
It’s easy to break the ring by Even gently tapping with hammer... I know I’ve done it.
Best to press it on
My ABS ring is 80.5 mm inner diameter. But the axle is 82 mm !!! How do you get it on???
MBDieselFreak PLEASE edit your title to say, ABS RELUCTOR ring rather than ABS Magnet Ring.
May be easier to find.
Also people searching for Mercedes Brake Rig Test(Procedure) is more than likely experiencing a Bad Reluctor Ring as you have and don’t even know it.
Great video BTW!
🇹🇭😎👍
Sensor replaced,ring and light still on.Clear all faults and drive for 20 sec.Light comeback🤷🏻♂️
Wiring is 100%
did you replace both the ring and the sensor?
@@MBDieselFreak Yes ring and sensor replaced
New sensor was faulty problem solved😉
@@sebhaya you did all the work to replace the ring and the new sensor was defective? I am asking because we just had a sensor replaced, haven’t done the ring yet but I would hate to do all that work only to find it was a defective new sensor. Thanks
I replace left rear ring on e320 2003 on left rear just ring & now is on 1st gear won’t shift 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
@@Sinister_187 ouch, did you get it fixed
How bout better music....
Made my car worse
Great video. What size is the axle nut? Thanks.
32mm
@@wikeroy hey, can you see if the rings damaged without stripping it all down?
@@markspencerfpv In my case the outer plastic part of the ring had come loose from the inner metal part, and jammed itself inside of the housing. So, when I looked into the sensor hole I really didnt understand what I saw. There was nothing moving in there .... I took the sensor and held it close to 4 magnets spinning on a drill, and could then see the rpm changing, using a scanner tool. I made a video on it.
ruclips.net/video/Fa1YuqA267Y/видео.html
Clearly, when the sensor works as a stand alone unit towards some rotating magnets, the ABS ring is damaged.
@@wikeroy Thank you for your indeapth reply.