I have a 2010 93 Aero XWD with 315,500 + miles (all mine!). I'm going to do this myself for the first time. I had a mechanic do it over 100k miles ago and it's starting to slip a little. The video is exactly what I need to do it properly. Thanks for the added 'what not to do" with the cover bolts!
1 Diff 2 Haldex 3 Transfer Box, Thanks for the nice effort uses it to for my 2010 VXR. - same as the VXR onkly has to drop the exhaus to :) Else pls REMEMBER check Haldex Level after driving mate, go driving and race it go back and check level I could add 50ml just so everyone knows ;) And really recommend filling through the went pipe (hose of)
Thank you very much! I purchased a 2010 9-3 XWD sedan with 90,000mi. I have no idea who or if service was performed. That looks quite easy! I'm anxious to get mine done soon! I will be ordering the service kit! Saab on!
Thanks for the idea. Did it just a few years ago, but will add it to my list, as it couldn't hurt to change it again after all the hard driving at autocross.
You made a great informative video, thanks for posting. I have a 2014 Cadillac SRX and there is no information about the Haldex service. I've read that Cadillac says there is no service to be done, just drive until the system fails at 100,00 to 150,000 miles and replace it, ouch, more than $3000+ just for the unit, then add labor. Now since watching your video I feel confident to service my SRX since it appears to be the same Gen IV Haldex. Good show.
Thank you, I'm glad it was able to help you out. Saab also claimed that the system was not in need of servicing, but the general consensus is that it definitely benefits from fluid and filter changes. When it comes down to it, I'd prefer to keep it in good operating condition for as long as possible, because as you said, a new replacement is not cheap.
Thanks, about to tackle this on my Insignia A (since there seems to be only Saab videos on this but they share the same system!) this makes it less daunting.
Hi all, out of curiosity what fluid levels are you working to? The descriptions suggested in this video seem to be quite different from what's on Saab WIS. Rear differential section 150ml new oil (Part #88862624) WIS suggests 0.6l Differential Clutch section 350ml new oil (Part #93165387) WIS suggests 0.52l Transfer case oil fill to bottom of check plug (Part #93165383) WIS suggests 0.66l Any advice welcome. Thanks
Newbie question. I have a 2008 9.3 Aero XWD. I put the car on ramps, but it's not high enough, I need to use axle jacks to get it higher. Can you advise on where I can position the floor jack to lift the front of the car, as you did? Where is it safe to position the floor jack so I can lift the car without damaging anything? Thanks!
Just want to add for correct filling procedure you leave the level fill plug in fill will 350ml run for 2-3mins then remove the level fill plug and top up as required If you fill will the level fill plug out the oil exits as soon as it hits the internal cavity due to the way its designed its why you cant fill them thru the level fill port :)
Thanks for the walk-through, awesome job! I find it interesting the dealerships refuse changing the filter and haldex oil on grounds some service memorandum issued by SAAB a year before they went bust was advising them against such service. On my 9-3X they only did the transfer case and the rear differential. In my opinion they just don't entertain dealing with such messy and time consuming maintenance activity that can also lead to all sorts of issues if not done properly. Their preference appears to be the trivial stuff (spark plugs, oil changes, filters, brakes) and off to the next car in line... volume vs revenue.
I knew Saab had originally said thebfluids should last the lifetime of the vehicle, but I guess I hadn't heard of a memo actually advising against the service. I'll have to look into that. I'd say most shops are just avoiding the liability of having to fix a system they don't know much about. Unfortunately, little is known about rebuilding the units (even though I know of at least one company doing rebuilds), but at least replacement parts are readily available from other GM vehicles and we shouldn't have trouble finding them any time soon.
Your refill procedure is incorrect. The top vent nipple is also considered the fill port. WIS states that 350ml should pumped in through the top nipple. This allows for the oil to flow into the pump. Once 350ml has been put into the unit the vehicle should be started and run for 60 seconds. Finally, the fill plug is used to top off the oil. Total oil used should be approx 0.5l.
I agree. I have serviced 2 of these on two different Saabs. I found 350 mL through the fill port and then an additional 100 mL through the vent seems to be the correct volume for the low fluid level code.
I'm guessing you mean front transfer case? The front diff uses fluid from the transmission. Depends on which kit you ordered. The one currently going for $199 from eSaabparts is the one that has all three fluids.
Did you get any of the fluids tested? It's been 30k miles since I had mine done so I guess it's time. Also, what size hose fits that breather valve. I thought I was going to see oil go everywhere.
Just curious... when you have that side plate off... on the Rear Diff to remove the gasket and the filter, are you able to remove the pump filter with those two little screws to clean the filter screen as well?
That is not the rear diff - this is the Halfdex 4x4 unit that sits before the diff :) If u remove the Pump be extra carefull making sure cycle the car through all the gears as air can arrise when filling it up in the system - also while add it remove the pump and check resistance if lover than 2.9 ohm that is not good new pump
I didn't have any issue with stripping them any time I've done the service. The only reason I needed to replace one was due to my own screw up the first time I removed the cover.
Good morning I'm Harald from Germany, great video can do something with that! Must do that for me too! My Insignia year of construction 2016 me 62000 km ..... Write here via Google Translate. Question 150ml in Haldex coupling? 350 ml Axil ... Thanks and greetings from Germany
I cleaned it out really thoroughly. Next time I'll probably get a pump that I will dedicate to the Haldex fluid, just to guarantee I don't get any contamination in the system. The brake cleaner seemed to make the pump harder to pull and push, so cleaning it out like that every time was not ideal. Could have lubed it better with the fluid being used next and probably not had the issue though.
In a different vid i watched, the guy drained the fluid, replaced the filter, filled until it started coming out of the fill hole, then he screwed in the fill plug and in his words "topped" up the fluid by filling it with MORE fluid through the breather hose. In my opinion this is wrong. why else would there be a fill plug? When I do it I think I'm going to do as you did, except i might put it in drive and spin the wheels in the air a bit before checking the level a second time. let me know what you think because seeing as it doesn't take much fluid as is, I'm sure overfilling could be detrimental. also, how many miles should you drive before servicing the system?
It's the recommended fill procedure. I've done it both ways, and there really doesn't seem to be a difference. When I replace my diff and got a better look inside the cover, filling through the breather tube really doesn't seem like it will do much. The only thing it would likely do is hold the entire amount of fluid without running over at the fill port before getting all the fluid in. Either way, you should check the level after some driving
@TheEvocarlos wrote: Just want to add for correct filling procedure you leave the level fill plug in fill will 350ml run for 2-3mins then remove the level fill plug and top up as required If you fill will the level fill plug out the oil exits as soon as it hits the internal cavity due to the way its designed its why you cant fill them thru the level fill port :)
It's not too hard, just have to be careful of the vac lines because they become brittle with age. Which if they are, it's probably a good idea to just change them out anywyas.
I filled through the breather hose with the plug out. After having everything a part, I really don't see this being necessary, but it is the official procedure and it does make it harder to mess up. I have just filled it through the fluid level plug in the past without issue, and that will probably be the way I do it going forward. Mostly because after having it a part, I really don't see much benefit to filling through the breather tube as opposed to the fluid level plug.
Still gen 4 without the Elsd. Should be same procedure, just possibly less fluid. Although, I don't think any fluid drains from the e-lsd during a change anyways, so may even be the same amount of fluid.
That's a 3 point subframe brace. They put something like that on the convertible to help stiffen the chassis. I'm guessing he did it since he tracked the car.
My '14 Buick Regal has the identical unit. That job looks like a bitch. I love wrenching on my own stuff, but dropping the differential.....on my car the exhaust is REAL close, and would probably have to be dropped as well.....after 5 Cleveland winters......YIKES! Great video, BTW.
I really like those Regals. I actually got a rear diff out of a Buick a few months back as a spare. Used the pump off it, as mine was done for. Might want to look into changing it so you can keep it in working order. Should still be alright, but better to be safe than sorry!
@@gd9704 I was going to elaborate when I was writing my 1st comment, but I was short on time. Anyway, back when I bought my xwd Saab I took it to a Buick dealer that's close to my house. At 1st they said they don't work on Saab's until I showed them the xwd system. After they were finished they said the only difference is you don't have to drop the awd system in the Buick. There were other conversations before which made me think this was their 1st time servicing any GM haldex.
You should be changing all xwd oils every 8k if u enjoy your fair share of spirited driving 25k Is way too much, I don’t need to send those oils out to tell u they’re thrashed, came out like water 💦
That's what happened when GM asked Haldex for a unit that already existed because they don't want anything specially made for the vehicle. Because money and we don't give a f.. how unfriendly it is to service. It's so unfriendly that Opel don't have a service intervall on these because it will outlast the warranty anyway. Also f.. the used car buyers who knows nothing about cars but wan't an affordable awd car.
I have a 2010 93 Aero XWD with 315,500 + miles (all mine!). I'm going to do this myself for the first time. I had a mechanic do it over 100k miles ago and it's starting to slip a little. The video is exactly what I need to do it properly. Thanks for the added 'what not to do" with the cover bolts!
Did you service your awd halidex system and how easy was it to do?
wow amazing!!! took 10 years for someone to upload XWD how to! I cannot thank you enough!
No problem! Glad I could help.
@@autoholicmedia I got a Service XWD message, Tech 2 reads a C0407 Code.
Sounds like that code is usually associated with low fluid. Double check the fluid level and top it off again if needed.
Autoholic Media actual code is C0407 64 no external leaks hopefully nothing leaking internally.
Was it after you serviced it or it just happened?
1 Diff
2 Haldex
3 Transfer Box,
Thanks for the nice effort uses it to for my 2010 VXR.
- same as the VXR onkly has to drop the exhaus to :)
Else pls REMEMBER check Haldex Level after driving mate, go driving and race it go back and check level I could add 50ml just so everyone knows ;)
And really recommend filling through the went pipe (hose of)
Thank you very much! I purchased a 2010 9-3 XWD sedan with 90,000mi. I have no idea who or if service was performed. That looks quite easy! I'm anxious to get mine done soon! I will be ordering the service kit! Saab on!
Fantastic full XWD Service video!!!
Changing the transmission fluid on the Turbo X would be a great video to see on your channel.
Thanks for the idea. Did it just a few years ago, but will add it to my list, as it couldn't hurt to change it again after all the hard driving at autocross.
@@autoholicmedia +1
thanks very much for addressing front , and rear service . much appreciated.
You made a great informative video, thanks for posting. I have a 2014 Cadillac SRX and there is no information about the Haldex service. I've read that Cadillac says there is no service to be done, just drive until the system fails at 100,00 to 150,000 miles and replace it, ouch, more than $3000+ just for the unit, then add labor. Now since watching your video I feel confident to service my SRX since it appears to be the same Gen IV Haldex. Good show.
Thank you, I'm glad it was able to help you out. Saab also claimed that the system was not in need of servicing, but the general consensus is that it definitely benefits from fluid and filter changes. When it comes down to it, I'd prefer to keep it in good operating condition for as long as possible, because as you said, a new replacement is not cheap.
Thanks for the video, just came back from the garage, used the video while doing the job, very handy. Thanks Carl.
Really glad it helped you out!
Great video just what i was looking after
Thanks, about to tackle this on my Insignia A (since there seems to be only Saab videos on this but they share the same system!) this makes it less daunting.
Great video - much appreciated. I'll be doing my 9-5 ng now :-)
Hi all, out of curiosity what fluid levels are you working to? The descriptions suggested in this video seem to be quite different from what's on Saab WIS.
Rear differential section 150ml new oil (Part #88862624) WIS suggests 0.6l
Differential Clutch section 350ml new oil (Part #93165387) WIS suggests 0.52l
Transfer case oil fill to bottom of check plug (Part #93165383) WIS suggests 0.66l
Any advice welcome. Thanks
Newbie question. I have a 2008 9.3 Aero XWD. I put the car on ramps, but it's not high enough, I need to use axle jacks to get it higher. Can you advise on where I can position the floor jack to lift the front of the car, as you did? Where is it safe to position the floor jack so I can lift the car without damaging anything? Thanks!
Just want to add for correct filling procedure you leave the level fill plug in fill will 350ml run for 2-3mins then remove the level fill plug and top up as required
If you fill will the level fill plug out the oil exits as soon as it hits the internal cavity due to the way its designed its why you cant fill them thru the level fill port :)
Thank you for this information sir!
Thank you sir, much appreciated!
Thanks for the walk-through, awesome job! I find it interesting the dealerships refuse changing the filter and haldex oil on grounds some service memorandum issued by SAAB a year before they went bust was advising them against such service. On my 9-3X they only did the transfer case and the rear differential. In my opinion they just don't entertain dealing with such messy and time consuming maintenance activity that can also lead to all sorts of issues if not done properly. Their preference appears to be the trivial stuff (spark plugs, oil changes, filters, brakes) and off to the next car in line... volume vs revenue.
I knew Saab had originally said thebfluids should last the lifetime of the vehicle, but I guess I hadn't heard of a memo actually advising against the service. I'll have to look into that. I'd say most shops are just avoiding the liability of having to fix a system they don't know much about. Unfortunately, little is known about rebuilding the units (even though I know of at least one company doing rebuilds), but at least replacement parts are readily available from other GM vehicles and we shouldn't have trouble finding them any time soon.
@@autoholicmedia they do the fluids (except for the TTD) but not the filter.
What do you mean by TTD?
@@autoholicmedia Torque Transfer Device (the clutch). My shop only does the transfer case and differential fluids.
Ok, that's what I was thinking. I would say that's the most important one to change out, along with the filter.
hey man, where did you get your tow hitch? ive been looking for one for my 2009 XWD
Great video! Do you know if the front CV axles from Cadillac SRX or Lacrosse will fit the 2011 9-5 (2.8, XWD Aero)?
Your refill procedure is incorrect. The top vent nipple is also considered the fill port. WIS states that 350ml should pumped in through the top nipple. This allows for the oil to flow into the pump. Once 350ml has been put into the unit the vehicle should be started and run for 60 seconds. Finally, the fill plug is used to top off the oil. Total oil used should be approx 0.5l.
I agree. I have serviced 2 of these on two different Saabs. I found 350 mL through the fill port and then an additional 100 mL through the vent seems to be the correct volume for the low fluid level code.
I just ordered the service kit. Is the lube for the front differential included in the service kit? Thanks!
I'm guessing you mean front transfer case? The front diff uses fluid from the transmission. Depends on which kit you ordered. The one currently going for $199 from eSaabparts is the one that has all three fluids.
Did you get any of the fluids tested? It's been 30k miles since I had mine done so I guess it's time. Also, what size hose fits that breather valve. I thought I was going to see oil go everywhere.
Thank you so much for putting this video together!
No problem. Just glad to get the info out there so people can keep their Saabs on the road and in good condition.
Just to stop any confusion, those amounts of fluids are service levels not how much fluid needs to go inside when doing the oil changes.
THANK YOU
CAN YOU DO A TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE VIDEO.
Just curious... when you have that side plate off... on the Rear Diff to remove the gasket and the filter, are you able to remove the pump filter with those two little screws to clean the filter screen as well?
I removed the two screws to clean the filter screen. Amazing how much gunk gets stuck behind that little filter screen.
That is not the rear diff - this is the Halfdex 4x4 unit that sits before the diff :)
If u remove the Pump be extra carefull making sure cycle the car through all the gears as air can arrise when filling it up in the system - also while add it remove the pump and check resistance if lover than 2.9 ohm that is not good new pump
Thanks for your video. I hope you were wearing a pair of safety glasses.
i love how eSaabParts sells this kit w/o the 10 screws that WILL strip but conveniently sells them for $6 each -LOL+SMFH!!!!!
I didn't have any issue with stripping them any time I've done the service. The only reason I needed to replace one was due to my own screw up the first time I removed the cover.
@@autoholicmedia ok i see. I bought replacements (25 pack) from McMaster for 1/3 of the price.
Do you have automatic on your car? If so can you do a video how to change automatic oil.
My Turbo X is a manual, but our 9-3x is an auto. So I'll definitely be covering that in a future video.
Good morning I'm Harald from Germany, great video can do something with that! Must do that for me too! My Insignia year of construction 2016 me 62000 km ..... Write here via Google Translate. Question 150ml in Haldex coupling? 350 ml Axil ... Thanks and greetings from Germany
How much does this differ from the process needed for a turbo6 ng 9-5? Do you need a complete car jack & jack stands or can you use drive up ramps?
Should be very similar. Drive up ramps could work, but I don't think they'll raise it up as high and you'll only get one end up.
Did you use a different fluid pump per each fluid or did you clean it out each time before putting the different fluids in it?
I cleaned it out really thoroughly. Next time I'll probably get a pump that I will dedicate to the Haldex fluid, just to guarantee I don't get any contamination in the system. The brake cleaner seemed to make the pump harder to pull and push, so cleaning it out like that every time was not ideal. Could have lubed it better with the fluid being used next and probably not had the issue though.
In a different vid i watched, the guy drained the fluid, replaced the filter, filled until it started coming out of the fill hole, then he screwed in the fill plug and in his words "topped" up the fluid by filling it with MORE fluid through the breather hose. In my opinion this is wrong. why else would there be a fill plug? When I do it I think I'm going to do as you did, except i might put it in drive and spin the wheels in the air a bit before checking the level a second time. let me know what you think because seeing as it doesn't take much fluid as is, I'm sure overfilling could be detrimental. also, how many miles should you drive before servicing the system?
Filling through the breather hose = is actully correct and avoiding air bubles that way ;)
Service it every 15.000 km
It's the recommended fill procedure. I've done it both ways, and there really doesn't seem to be a difference. When I replace my diff and got a better look inside the cover, filling through the breather tube really doesn't seem like it will do much. The only thing it would likely do is hold the entire amount of fluid without running over at the fill port before getting all the fluid in. Either way, you should check the level after some driving
Whats The reason for filling haldex through The breather? Aint it enough to fill through The levelplug?
@TheEvocarlos wrote: Just want to add for correct filling procedure you leave the level fill plug in fill will 350ml run for 2-3mins then remove the level fill plug and top up as required
If you fill will the level fill plug out the oil exits as soon as it hits the internal cavity due to the way its designed its why you cant fill them thru the level fill port :)
Do a video how to change coils on the 2,8
Good idea. I don't need new coils yet, but I may be replacing the plugs soon and the coils need to come out anyways.
how is changing coils hard?
It's not too hard, just have to be careful of the vac lines because they become brittle with age. Which if they are, it's probably a good idea to just change them out anywyas.
When filling the differential clutch, did you leave the drain plug out and filled it via breather hose or did you fill it via the drain hole?
I filled through the breather hose with the plug out. After having everything a part, I really don't see this being necessary, but it is the official procedure and it does make it harder to mess up. I have just filled it through the fluid level plug in the past without issue, and that will probably be the way I do it going forward. Mostly because after having it a part, I really don't see much benefit to filling through the breather tube as opposed to the fluid level plug.
Autoholic Media by fluid level plug you mean that plug below the breather hose right?
Autoholic Media also, for one without the eLSD, any differences in this procedure? And would they be considered Gen 3 Haldex?
Still gen 4 without the Elsd. Should be same procedure, just possibly less fluid. Although, I don't think any fluid drains from the e-lsd during a change anyways, so may even be the same amount of fluid.
Autoholic Media thanks.
you should never empty a diff or transmission without checking that the fill plug can be loosen
Not going to hurt anything, just not drain as quickly or smoothly.
@@autoholicmedia what if you empty the diff and then you can't open the fill plug? Now you have a very big paperweight.
what are the yellow bars underneath the car for
That's a 3 point subframe brace. They put something like that on the convertible to help stiffen the chassis. I'm guessing he did it since he tracked the car.
That's a 4 point brace I made. Put it on to help stiffen up the front.
My '14 Buick Regal has the identical unit. That job looks like a bitch. I love wrenching on my own stuff, but dropping the differential.....on my car the exhaust is REAL close, and would probably have to be dropped as well.....after 5 Cleveland winters......YIKES! Great video, BTW.
I really like those Regals. I actually got a rear diff out of a Buick a few months back as a spare. Used the pump off it, as mine was done for.
Might want to look into changing it so you can keep it in working order. Should still be alright, but better to be safe than sorry!
You don't need to drop anything to change the fluid in your Buick.
@@chrisshore9000 your fingers must be tiny, then.
@@gd9704 I was going to elaborate when I was writing my 1st comment, but I was short on time. Anyway, back when I bought my xwd Saab I took it to a Buick dealer that's close to my house. At 1st they said they don't work on Saab's until I showed them the xwd system. After they were finished they said the only difference is you don't have to drop the awd system in the Buick. There were other conversations before which made me think this was their 1st time servicing any GM haldex.
You should be changing all xwd oils every 8k if u enjoy your fair share of spirited driving 25k Is way too much, I don’t need to send those oils out to tell u they’re thrashed, came out like water 💦
That's what happened when GM asked Haldex for a unit that already existed because they don't want anything specially made for the vehicle. Because money and we don't give a f.. how unfriendly it is to service. It's so unfriendly that Opel don't have a service intervall on these because it will outlast the warranty anyway. Also f.. the used car buyers who knows nothing about cars but wan't an affordable awd car.
Excellent how to vid. I'm thinking about buying a chassis for race use. You would think its voodoo magic from the lack of any coherent demonstration.