Nice video and expertise of repairing objects. My father was the Vice Pres. of Continental Machines Inc. that designed and built DoAll saws. If it was made between 1952- 1985, he probably had a hand in it's design and production. Its great to see his work still out there being used and appreciated.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to do the camera, lights, editing, etc. (I used to make instructional 16 mm films.) I especially enjoyed the how-to store the blade. I always struggled with it in the past! Now I know. I agree with you on the compressed air. But I would have used the vacuum cleaner on the junk; even with a brush or spatula, junk gets away from you. A ruined part or two will pay for a new vacuum cleaner - I treat vacuum cleaners as expendable - buy cheap, clean, and when it gets too junky, toss it, get an new one. Saves many parts from the swarf, dust, etc.
Thanks Joe for all you do to educate us. There is very little out there on the DoAll verticals. I have a 3630 that I just got running and could sure use training on its use, maintenance and blade selection. Anything you could post would sure be of use to me and I'm sure others.
Thanks Joe Yes it's specific in one sense, but because the DoAll is a well designed and well built machine you demonstrated ideas that should easily translate to many other applications. Thumbs up
Great video (again). I think I would have put the socket head screws through the holes in the cover then mounted the shims on the threaded portion of the socket head screws, then placed the cover over the four holes. This of course prevents the shims from dropping or getting moved. Anyhoo . . . super video. I'm learning every time and I like your style of presentation. Your attitude humble. You are an obvious love-to-learn learner and it telegraphs acceptance and learning from your subscribers. Thanks.
This is a piece of equipment not talked about much. A short video on band saw blade selection would be nice. The number of teeth and what types of blades for what metals. Keep up the great videos Joe!
Great result Joe. Had a feeling there'd be that bevel gear set up. Good advice re set screw matters and blade folding - that used to fool me till I learned the trick. :)
Glad you mentioned stainless steel being soft Joe, it always makes me chuckle when I hear someone spout off how they will replace a failed "carbon steel" part with a stainless steel item version, they get upset when you ask them if they're sure about what they're doing.
Fwiw and I'm sure you already know about it Joe, but a lot of guns use two set screws. One on top on the other. Firing pin assemblys are where you usually see that. Or anywhere there's shock loads or vibration.The first takes the load and the second works just like a lock/jam nut to keep the first from backing out. Some would maybe use locktite and it has it's uses, but that's not an area I'd use it. An interesting video anyway even though I may never see a Doall bandsaw in my life time. :-) Going by all the metal stock in the back round it's a busy place. Thanks for taking the extra time to video some of this.
I appreciate the comment. I have seen that double set screw setup. It can fake you out if you're not expecting it. Using loctite on set screws this small is scary to me. Those 3/32 hex keys round off pretty quick. I'm a big fan of 1/4-28. Good grip and a nice 1/8 allen wrench to drive it. Thanks for watching. I have another coming tonight. How to get concentricity out of a non adjustable 3 jaw. Stay tuned.
I use blue locktite on small allen fasteners for gun scopes no problem. A torx wrench fits many sizes of allen head fasteners much better. In a pinch use clear nail polish to lock down small screws works great. Worth
Hey Joe, as always interesting and informative with the usual goodies thrown in at the end. I loved the video clearing the spiders legs, I guess like me you believe every creature has the right to life and a break, seems to me that humans are the greatest threat to these great videos continuing. Kindest regards young man. Another Joe.
Ilove these Saws ,BTW Sears used to sell a Automotive detail aging set of accessories for ShopVacumns and i bought someone a ShopVac for a Present so i picked up a set for him and myself of that Accessory set it actually came with some fairly small tips with brushes on them for cleaning the airconditioning vents and other tight areas i use one small pointy nozzle that was in the set and i attach a short clear plastic tube section as a extension for sucking up dirty and greasey areas works great for cleaning my dirty Bidges on my Fishing Boat and other detailed areas i know that Sears Craftsman Vacumn were rebranded ShopVac brands and i’ve seen the auto Accessory Set at other places that do carry ShopVac brands IMO it’s worth the $ 12.00 price i’m a retired Woodworker i’ve also used my trick to clean my ShopEquipment to not get the Sawdust in my face with ShopAir i happen to also enjoy Vintage Cars restorations and modifications on my own and one day i hope to Aquire a DoAll for that work and other things i’m into doing , ironically i was Streaming Programs this morning and I watched a Jesse James Speed Shop Video that he was using his Do All to cut Homemade Exhaust Pipes he was welding for a Hot Rod he was building at his AustinSpeed Shop which is kind of in your neck of the Woods !
Hunter333444...............Wow, you guys are brutal. I supposed I deserved that shot for not showing that step or leaving it in the edited video. Keep me honest, it makes me better. Thanks for the comment.
Hey, Joe I just got down here today, had to drop off a load in Galveston. Man I don't know how anybody can stand this heat lol .... wow #toohot4Canadians
Joe can you give some help with blade selection? I am struggling cutting A2 tool steel. I rebuilt a DoAll Band saw after you made a comment about how much of a tank they are. Love the machine but I am struggling cutting tool steel .
@@joepie221 Joe, the piece I want to cut at the moment is A2 1' thick 7" x 3 1/2. I want to make a set of extra jaws for a Kurt vice. My general use blade is a Morse M-43 3/4" 8/12TPI. We cut quite a bit of thin stock so this blade works well for general use. I have tried a couple different blades and the A2 seems to win. I would buy a carbide tipped blade just for cutting tool steel if I was comfortable it would solve the problem, they are not cheap. This has been an ongoing issue for me. I have toasted a couple blades on even smaller pieces. Haven't used lubricant or coolant. I generally always lubricate what I cut but I'm struggling to even get the cut started. I have a lot of tool steel especially A2 with a lot of projects in mind. The blade speed is 450 IPM. Straight cuts.
Hey Johnny, Ive seen super thin washers get pulled into the screw threads and distort all to hell by doing that. If they are centered, not a problem, but trapping them on the block is a little safer for very thin shims.
One reason not to put much lubrication is because the unit is open to the chips the machine creates. And there is very very low RPM, since you just crank it by hand. So grease would not be used, only a light oil would do....
I use it and ISO 46 on everything all it is, is high grade mineral oil and also known as turbine oil. The 46 I run it in my lathe gear box even though they recommended ISO 32 because it is so darn hot here. It is far cheaper than the worthless WD-40 everyone buys. Plus it is odorless and tasteless. I think they should have put a key way in the gear and shaft instead of the wee little set screw to handle loads. Worth
For what it's worth, I would have changed it to a 1/4" set screw and added another at 90 deg. to the original. Small Allen wrenches bend before you can get the screw tight. Loctite is your friend.
Loctite should require a license or IQ test, as an industrial mechanic it created way too much misery when I had to work behind people that drown every fastener they touch with that stuff, it has a purpose and does what it's intended for but in the wrong hands it's bad news.
Band saw trick. Don't throw away those dull old blades. Turn on the saw and grind the blade completely dull. Ultimately, the teeth should be slightly rounded and can't quite cut butter. The perfect blade for cutting up old tires and inner tubes. Try it.
That's a great idea. I have to try it. I was once taught to turn circular saw blades backwards to cut vinyl siding and thin aluminum. Fantastic trick. Try that.
The backwards circular saw blade is a great trick, I've used it to cut plexiglass also. I have also turned the blade around in a hacksaw (or for a quick easy cut, just used the saw backwards with the handle away from me) to cut liquid tight conduit out in the field, the blade won't chatter as easily as you start to cut.
It would have been a better job if you would have removed the unit from the machine by the two large cap screws....its been awhile since I had mine off. It would have been cleaned in the solvent tank. A new set screw instead of using the old one being ground down on the grinder. Im sure you have new ones somewhere in that shop. Then reinstall it and all would have been clean and like new. And it would not have taken that much longer.
Don't you hate to find out that a tool is defective, only when you need that tool rush for a client that waits right behind you...? lol Bahhh...! I guess there is worse. About the unfolding of blades, the shop is so packed that I got to do it outside, and, here we got shitload of snow in the winter.... :(
Teeth riding on the center of the tire would put the blade body on the backside of the tire radius. Under tension, the blade would migrate to the rear and come off.
Interesting look inside the Do-All. Your method of folding and unfolding the blade is exactly how I learned it from Doc McCain back in the seventies.
Thanks Richard. The blade trick is a good one. Just don't let it get away!
Nice video and expertise of repairing objects. My father was the Vice Pres. of Continental Machines Inc. that designed and built DoAll saws. If it was made between 1952- 1985, he probably had a hand in it's design and production. Its great to see his work still out there being used and appreciated.
Quality lasts forever. This is a great machine. Your Father did Good! Thanks for watching.
fire20dude I've got an early '60s DoAll that serves me well. It's nice to make connections with history.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to do the camera, lights, editing, etc. (I used to make instructional 16 mm films.) I especially enjoyed the how-to store the blade. I always struggled with it in the past! Now I know. I agree with you on the compressed air. But I would have used the vacuum cleaner on the junk; even with a brush or spatula, junk gets away from you. A ruined part or two will pay for a new vacuum cleaner - I treat vacuum cleaners as expendable - buy cheap, clean, and when it gets too junky, toss it, get an new one. Saves many parts from the swarf, dust, etc.
Thanks Joe for all you do to educate us. There is very little out there on the DoAll verticals. I have a 3630 that I just got running and could sure use training on its use, maintenance and blade selection. Anything you could post would sure be of use to me and I'm sure others.
That sound relatively easy. Maybe a future video is in order. Thanks for the comment.
Joe, Thanks for the video. Nice repair on the Doall. I've folded bandsaw blades before, but seems like I have to re-learn every time.
Toss one to a friend sometime. Then run. Thanks for checking in Herb.
Mr Pie. Knowledge + experience = what some people call luck. Neat trick to fold the blade...thanx.
Thanks Joe
Yes it's specific in one sense, but because the DoAll is a well designed and well built machine you demonstrated ideas that should easily translate to many other applications. Thumbs up
Thank you
Great video (again). I think I would have put the socket head screws through the holes in the cover then mounted the shims on the threaded portion of the socket head screws, then placed the cover over the four holes. This of course prevents the shims from dropping or getting moved. Anyhoo . . . super video. I'm learning every time and I like your style of presentation. Your attitude humble. You are an obvious love-to-learn learner and it telegraphs acceptance and learning from your subscribers. Thanks.
Wow. Thank you Jim.
This is a piece of equipment not talked about much. A short video on band saw blade selection would be nice. The number of teeth and what types of blades for what metals. Keep up the great videos Joe!
Great result Joe. Had a feeling there'd be that bevel gear set up. Good advice re set screw matters and blade folding - that used to fool me till I learned the trick. :)
Thanks for watching Chris. This one was easy.
Another great tip Joe! Love the real world issue and fix. Also the band saw blade tip is spot on. My wife even said to throw it in the ground! lol
Smart woman. Just never throw it straight up or to a friend you want to keep.
Glad you mentioned stainless steel being soft Joe, it always makes me chuckle when I hear someone spout off how they will replace a failed "carbon steel" part with a stainless steel item version, they get upset when you ask them if they're sure about what they're doing.
Fun to watch. Neat trick for winding up the saw blade.
Thanks Mike. I would suggest gloves for anyone that tries it. That blade can bite ya pretty quick.
Fwiw and I'm sure you already know about it Joe, but a lot of guns use two set screws. One on top on the other. Firing pin assemblys are where you usually see that. Or anywhere there's shock loads or vibration.The first takes the load and the second works just like a lock/jam nut to keep the first from backing out. Some would maybe use locktite and it has it's uses, but that's not an area I'd use it.
An interesting video anyway even though I may never see a Doall bandsaw in my life time. :-) Going by all the metal stock in the back round it's a busy place. Thanks for taking the extra time to video some of this.
I appreciate the comment. I have seen that double set screw setup. It can fake you out if you're not expecting it. Using loctite on set screws this small is scary to me. Those 3/32 hex keys round off pretty quick. I'm a big fan of 1/4-28. Good grip and a nice 1/8 allen wrench to drive it. Thanks for watching. I have another coming tonight. How to get concentricity out of a non adjustable 3 jaw. Stay tuned.
I use blue locktite on small allen fasteners for gun scopes no problem.
A torx wrench fits many sizes of allen head fasteners much better.
In a pinch use clear nail polish to lock down small screws works great.
Worth
Were you just kidding about making a .003" thick shim on the lathe? I can't wait for that video.
Not kidding at all. I'll even put it back in the machine and bore it out after I show you how to do it.
Thanks Joe, no such thing as to much info! Keep the videos coming, I'll watch. :)
Got a good lathe trick coming up later today. Getting concentricity out of a non adjustable chuck. Stay tuned.
Sure would like to see that video of the super thin spacers. As many methods as you know would be excellent. Take care. Doug
Stay tuned Doug. Its a fantastic trick I developed years ago out of necessity.
Hey Joe, as always interesting and informative with the usual goodies thrown in at the end. I loved the video clearing the spiders legs, I guess like me you believe every creature has the right to life and a break, seems to me that humans are the greatest threat to these great videos continuing. Kindest regards young man. Another Joe.
Thanks Joe.
That's one sweet bandsaw. Nice fix.
Got that sucker for $650. What a steal !!
Ilove these Saws ,BTW Sears used to sell a Automotive detail aging set of accessories for ShopVacumns and i bought someone a ShopVac for a Present so i picked up a set for him and myself of that Accessory set it actually came with some fairly small tips with brushes on them for cleaning the airconditioning vents and other tight areas i use one small pointy nozzle that was in the set and i attach a short clear plastic tube section as a extension for sucking up dirty and greasey areas works great for cleaning my dirty Bidges on my Fishing Boat and other detailed areas i know that Sears Craftsman Vacumn were rebranded ShopVac brands and i’ve seen the auto Accessory Set at other places that do carry ShopVac brands IMO it’s worth the $ 12.00 price i’m a retired Woodworker i’ve also used my trick to clean my ShopEquipment to not get the Sawdust in my face with ShopAir i happen to also enjoy Vintage Cars restorations and modifications on my own and one day i hope to Aquire a DoAll for that work and other things i’m into doing , ironically i was Streaming Programs this morning and I watched a Jesse James Speed Shop Video that he was using his Do All to cut Homemade Exhaust Pipes he was welding for a Hot Rod he was building at his AustinSpeed Shop which is kind of in your neck of the Woods !
His shop is just a few minutes away from where I live.
No lube for the gears and threaded shaft and bushing awwww thanks I enjoy your videos
Hunter333444...............Wow, you guys are brutal. I supposed I deserved that shot for not showing that step or leaving it in the edited video. Keep me honest, it makes me better. Thanks for the comment.
Why not put some of that grease on the gears before closing it back up? Thanks for the video.
It got greased. It would have been easier when it was open.
good work,.
but what no grease on the gear and pinion?
Not on video anyway. It got greased.
Thanks for sharing Joe.
Thanks for watching Mike.
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Sam. An unexpected opportunity to record.
Hey, Joe I just got down here today, had to drop off a load in Galveston. Man I don't know how anybody can stand this heat lol .... wow #toohot4Canadians
Its cool today Billy. Only supposed to be 90. Come down in August. You get used to the heat after a while.
Good blade lesson
What kind of tooth count do you recommend for general purpose metal cutting?
That depends on the metal and thickness. Off hand I would use a 10 to 14 tooth per inch in a slower range speed.
Joe can you give some help with blade selection? I am struggling cutting A2 tool steel. I rebuilt a DoAll Band saw after you made a comment about how much of a tank they are. Love the machine but I am struggling cutting tool steel .
Provide some of the details of what isn't working presently. Part thickness, straight cut? machine speed? Current blade? Lubricant?
@@joepie221 Joe, the piece I want to cut at the moment is A2 1' thick 7" x 3 1/2. I want to make a set of extra jaws for a Kurt vice. My general use blade is a Morse M-43 3/4" 8/12TPI. We cut quite a bit of thin stock so this blade works well for general use. I have tried a couple different blades and the A2 seems to win. I would buy a carbide tipped blade just for cutting tool steel if I was comfortable it would solve the problem, they are not cheap. This has been an ongoing issue for me. I have toasted a couple blades on even smaller pieces. Haven't used lubricant or coolant. I generally always lubricate what I cut but I'm struggling to even get the cut started. I have a lot of tool steel especially A2 with a lot of projects in mind. The blade speed is 450 IPM. Straight cuts.
Looks like a slightly longer set screw wouldn't have hurt anything.
I agree. An access hole wouldn't have been a bad idea either.
I like to place the shim washers over the bolts on the cover plate so that they are captured during assembly.
Hey Johnny, Ive seen super thin washers get pulled into the screw threads and distort all to hell by doing that. If they are centered, not a problem, but trapping them on the block is a little safer for very thin shims.
True, super thin shim washers are candidates for folding up if snagged.
How come you did not relubricate the gears and the slide
I did. Just not on the video
One reason not to put much lubrication is because the unit is open to the chips the machine creates. And there is very very low RPM, since you just crank it by hand. So grease would not be used, only a light oil would do....
joe nice tip.
Mineral oil ISO 68 on lead screw and gears no greasy mess.
Worth Bastrop Texas.
I used lubriplate on it. Thanks for the tip
I use it and ISO 46 on everything all it is, is high grade mineral oil and also known as turbine oil.
The 46 I run it in my lathe gear box even though they recommended ISO 32 because it is so darn hot here.
It is far cheaper than the worthless WD-40 everyone buys.
Plus it is odorless and tasteless.
I think they should have put a key way in the gear and shaft instead of the wee little set screw to handle loads.
Worth
For what it's worth, I would have changed it to a 1/4" set screw and added another at 90
deg. to the original. Small Allen wrenches bend before you can get the screw tight.
Loctite is your friend.
Good hint.
Loctite should require a license or IQ test, as an industrial mechanic it created way too much misery when I had to work behind people that drown every fastener they touch with that stuff, it has a purpose and does what it's intended for but in the wrong hands it's bad news.
Band saw trick. Don't throw away those dull old blades. Turn on the saw and grind the blade completely dull. Ultimately, the teeth should be slightly rounded and can't quite cut butter. The perfect blade for cutting up old tires and inner tubes. Try it.
That's a great idea. I have to try it. I was once taught to turn circular saw blades backwards to cut vinyl siding and thin aluminum. Fantastic trick. Try that.
The backwards circular saw blade is a great trick, I've used it to cut plexiglass also. I have also turned the blade around in a hacksaw (or for a quick easy cut, just used the saw backwards with the handle away from me) to cut liquid tight conduit out in the field, the blade won't chatter as easily as you start to cut.
👍👍👍
Thanks Alan.
It would have been a better job if you would have removed the unit from the machine by the two large cap screws....its been awhile since I had mine off. It would have been cleaned in the solvent tank. A new set screw instead of using the old one being ground down on the grinder. Im sure you have new ones somewhere in that shop. Then reinstall it and all would have been clean and like new. And it would not have taken that much longer.
I would have been inclined to use a square head dog point screw in this application.
How about grease?
How about read the video description.
WE CUSTOM BUILT A 4 FOOT LONG AIR NOZZLE , 1/2" TEMPERED COPPER WITH 1/4"
INSIDE , YOU CAN SNEEK UP ON DUST + YOUR MACHINES STAY MUCH CLEANER !
And it shoots Q tips at 175 miles per hour!
1/4" TUBING WITH END CRIMPED TO ABOUT 1/8" .
Don't you hate to find out that a tool is defective, only when you need that tool rush for a client that waits right behind you...? lol Bahhh...! I guess there is worse.
About the unfolding of blades, the shop is so packed that I got to do it outside, and, here we got shitload of snow in the winter.... :(
Find a high ceiling and throw it straight up then.
I really hope you know I'm kidding.
I find the vertical ones take a little less room when you trow them on the floor than do the horizontal ones..... ( Here I'm not kidding... lol )
I guess that depends on the size of the saw.
DAWG-COT. $129 from KBC. Or just use your finger.
Not sure I understand this comment.Lets have more detail.
Do-All Worm Gear Clean-Out Tool. DAWG-COT.
Love it. AKA 6" scale
seems like you would clean ALL the chips before adding grease and remove as much metal dust, etc before calling this complete. Just saying!
I did Gene. I just didn't film it. That's why I didn't wrap up the job on film.Good comment. Keep me honest.
Not helpful, but entertaining as always.
Hey, ya never know.
Looking at tire the blade is not adjusted correctly according to the experts. The teeth should ride on the center of the tire.
Teeth riding on the center of the tire would put the blade body on the backside of the tire radius. Under tension, the blade would migrate to the rear and come off.