whaha i did as a kid too. brand spanking new radio... took it apart.. my dad was mad as hell when i came to him Daddy can we put this back togheter hahaha.
😂 pretty much how I began a career in computers that has consistently put a roof over my family's head. I was about 8 years old, dad tossed me a broken VCR and said have at it. So I did, and fixed it. Never really stopped taking things apart ever since, just got marginally better at putting them back together again
Nothing wrong with this engine, needs new harmonic balancer, new rings, quick bore hone. They heard a rattle, got a quote for repairs and scraped it???
BMW tech here, gear for the oil pump on those engines are left-hand threads assuming you tear down another in the future, love your videos and increasingly more popular methods of throwing water pumps
BMW tech, I think the gooky rings are that stupid thin oil being used to save gas. The rings don't seal as well with ultra thin oil and start burning oil leaving deposits on the rings. Piss on everyone, I'm using 10W30.
I pray everything works out for you! Thank you for so much input on that BMW Engine. Nice to have someone with knowledge speak out. What's your opinion on synthetic oils and hybrid synthetic. Piss on it, what type of oil do you think is best in your opinion. I could probably research this myself what if you answer thank you.❤😂
Many years ago, in the mid fifties, my neighbor was the town mechanic for the town of Sleepy Hollow, yes, the town where the headless horseman rode, and he allowed me to watch him rebuild the fire chief’s cars engine. I was about seven or eight years old at the time. I remember him tightening the head bolts, and he told me that they tighten till they squeal! Seventy years later, I use a torque wrench now, but I still remember the old ways. Great video! He used quantities of Permatex, and I can still remember the smell, and the way it transferred to the entire body of the eight year old!
If you mean Permatex Gaskacinch or Hitack, I'm right there with ya. I can literally smell it from my memory. It brings back memories of the thermostat housing on my '65 Mustang.
As an owner of a 3 cylinder Mini Countryman, I thank you. It was interesting and informative to see the inner workings of that engine. I didn't realize the timing set was in the rear. Means any fault there would mean an engine pull. Ugh. But, the design looks stout and ours receives Mini motor oil and filters every 5000 miles. So I have expectations of a long service life. Cause we love the Countryman. Love the tear downs and look forward to the next water pump toss. And if you ever get a shot at an Isuzu diesel, I think that would be interesting.
3 CHEERS FOR SAFETY BOX!!! Eric lives to wrench another day. I saw it with my own two peepers, that puppy was supersonic! okay, it was doing the speed limit in a school zone. lol
I second your harmonic balancer theory. I once worked on an Altima with lean codes. Last shop couldn’t figure it out so they replaced the engine. Turns out it was a rolled throttle body gasket.
You'd be correct in assuming they got rid of that engine because of the crank pulley. I don't know WHY but BMW has had issues with every single Mini engine failing at the crank pulley, the Tritec engines would lose the rubber insert on the harmonic and destroy the timing cover if not caught soon enough and it sounds like a rod knock, the Prince engine did the same exact thing and sounds exactly like a rod knock and all of the new 3 and 4 cylinder B engines have recalls on the crank pulley, you'll get a horrible grinding and tapping noise and none of your accessories will work, you'll get alternator light and no working AC. The new pulley is also something like $900 list and $600 my price for the OEM, febi also has it which is the OEM for Mini, their kit comes with new bolts as well and is only $365 my price. Nice thing is that it only calls for about 2ish hours of labor and should be a warranty/recall job, take wheel off, remove wheel cover, remove belt, remove crank pulley, inspect seal for leakage or damage, replace if leaking or damage, slap it back together.
@debtfree_2023 I have had many many many R50-3 and R56-7 Mini's come my way with a "knock" where another shop told them it needed a new engine and quoted them some insane price only for it to be the harmonic coming apart. Another common failure on the Prince engine R56+ is the water pump pulley coming apart and it also sounds like a knock because the spring loaded idler tensioner that connects the pulleys bounces with the RPM. Lot of shops either don't know these cars, don't care or just want to sell an engine swap at the cost of a harmonic and scam their customers.
And when the pully shreds to bits it stops running the water pump too. Entertainment for the entire family. My guess is some tech talked the customer into a new motor because “now you don’t know what else might happen”. For mine we stopped it, towed it, threw on a new pully, refilled the coolant and prayed to whatever is the BMW equivalent of Jesus (savior of expensive motors). So far the worst thing I’ve found is that it warped that little plastic timing cover on the front of the engine. 🤷♂️
@@ntcolonel Not sure about what the tech thought or may have said but I've seen this issue countless times, on the Tritec when the harmonic starts to go it smacks the timing cover and sounds EXACTLY like a rod knock, a lot of techs would probably immediately just say it's a rod knock and leave it at that but I have never seen the Tritec engine with a rod knock out of the dozens that I have had come my way. The Prince engine has 2 ways it can sound like a rod knock, firstly the harmonic fails the exact same way and hits the timing cover, the second is the pulley for the water pump, it's got rubber around it and acts like it's own belt drive, these commonly shred themselves and create gaps in the rubber and it sounds a lot like a rod knock when it hits the spring loaded idler attached to the tensioner. When you lose the water pump pulley rubber I always recommend replacing the water pump as well because it beats and shocks the bearings of the water pump and isn't worth the risk. Glad you guys were smarter than the mechanics who've diagnosed these by ear and up sold a new motor to poor unsuspecting customers, good on you. 👍
3 cyl engines have a lot of "coasting" time between cylinder firing events, which makes them really rough and shaky at lower engine speeds. Combine that with a lot of load on the crankshaft pulley (due to alternator and AC) and probably rubber that is too soft in the pulley to try and dampen the vibration (or even hydraulic dampening) and they're going to be failure prone. 4 cyl are only marginally better, but it largely depends on how the engine is tuned. If the engine is run a lot at low RPM and higher load (like most modern turbocharged engines are) it will also create a lot of torsional vibration in the pulley.
The drain plug is a "repair" plug that places like Jiffy Lube install when they over-torque the regular plug and strip out the oil pan. It's meant to be installed and then not touched again until the pan is replaced.
Which begs the question of what oil was used in this engine. Just because it's clean doesn't mean it's the correct grade. FWIW, I only use BMW branded 5w30 in my N52. Yeah, I pay too much, but at 178,000 miles my oil analysis shows almost no wear metals. Blackstone says keep doing what I'm doing, and so I will. Regular changes at 7500 miles, 90% highway driving with daily pulls to redline to keep oil flowing through the vanos and exercise the valvetronic.
@@dougrobinson8602 good point! I thought the engine had been maintained by how clean it was inside. But you're right, that doesn't guarantee that the correct oil was used. It could have been cheap crap changed frequently.
@@dougrobinson8602 Wow 7500 miles is a long time between oil changes. I still remember what a Toyota engineer that did engine development said, "If you buy a car that you plan to keep and drive for as long as possible, change the oil every 3000 miles. Even if you buy cheaper oil, just change it every 3000 miles, that's the number one thing you can do to extend the life of your engine." I can't exactly remember where I saw the interview with that guy, but it was on RUclips. He was either a Nissan or Toyota engineer, I can't exactly remember. He may have been the designer of the new American Skyline GT-R engine, that sounds familiar.
@@jtjones4727I run Toyota’s and Lexus, change between 7500-10000 with full synthetic and I’ve never had a bad black stone report, but again it’s a Toyota…
I've seen older GM 3800's get replaced because the harmonic balancer was causing a helluva clatter. Some Chrysler 2.7L engines got replaced because the O-ring around the primary chain tensioner took a vacation to the bottom of the oil pan. Stuff like that does happen.
Waaay back, when I was a student, 1974 - only 50 years ago now!) my ancient Vauxhall Viva had a horrible engine knock - sounded like main bearings. I took it to the local dealer in Brighton UK. The workshop manager went straight to the crankshaft pulley and tightened up the fixing nut. No more knock. No charge either. Sometimes people were pretty good to youngsters. Talk about relieved!!
Wow, got here early. My guess looking at it would be that the cylinder wear has allowed some (not a lot, but some) oil past the rings, which lead to the appearance of blue smoke. Probably just at start up at first, but over time it built up around the rings and such and allowed more and more oil past. At a point, it went from a blue smoke on start up the a blue smoke at RPM and on the road down to blue smoke at idle, which is when it got pulled out. I am thinking it just ends up being a question of clearances exceeding what the rings could handle, and then it was a cascading failure over time. Love the two boit engine stand and the safety box. All good stuff.
Howdy, im an engine man for 50+ years. I worked in engine R&D for quite a few years and powerboat racing too. Ive blown up many an engine, my personal best was cutting an alloy 3 cyl engine in half with the flailing con rod. Love your videos, love the method, love the failure analysis, love the video work and perfect time lapse, but especially your descriptive sense of humor. I will forever know them as piston nuggets. I am a huge fan and will watch you again and again and again. Go blue
Looks like maybe a new car getting the "you don't need to break in a new modern engine" break in method. Glaze the cylinder walls, rings don't seat, uses oil that gums up the rings, etc.
I'd say you're right about the damper. Years ago, I worked for a manufacturer that made a torsional harmonic damper / isolator pulley for the Mini Cooper S. It was similar in design to the one on this engine. The pulley had a limited range of axial rotation relative to the damper, controlled by an elastomer spring, and they did fail occasionally.
I owned a 2015 Mini Cooper with this engine for a few years. Great power around town and incredible fuel mileage. It had a valve cover leak that was fixed under warranty. No other issues though.
This tear-down was frustrating as no smoking gun for what’s wrong with it. I have the B58 in my X5 and so far love it. I agree that BMW seems to have finally learned some lessons on engine design (longevity-wise).
I've been enjoying your teardowns for a number of years. I like the way you take apart the engines without destroying them. But, I don't enjoy the way you disrespect the parts like the water pump and chain guides. If that is what your viewers want and that's what keeps you going, then I can live with it. Thanks for the teardown and all your hard work. Best to you and your family. 👍
No the pulley is not supposed to be that way. The serpentine belt pulley part of it is supposed to be sprung and dampened (sort of like a dual mass flywheel) to make life easier on the auxillary components (due to the large gap in firing interval, the engine experience significant rotational speed oscillation 3 times each revolution, especially at idle and low rpm) and someone might have written it off thinking thinking the failed damper was the internals ratteling, especially if it rattled in combination with oil consumption. And speaking of potential oil consumption... These engines have plasma spray sintered iron bores (like the Ford 1.0 ECO-Boost) which have EXTREMELY GOOD oil retention properties, and if the owner decided he knew better that BMW (some unknowledge seems to be at play with oil-changes, due to having broken the drain plug and installed a janky replacement) and filled a higher viscosity oil in it (thinking 0W20 or whatever is too thin), and with the improper spec too boot (wrong additive package in the oil) Then the piston rings would basicly just float on the now way too thick oil film, and let oil seep in to the cylinders in any off-boost situation...
Basically this, bad maintanence and lack of knowledge was the end of this engine. The faulty serpentine belt pulley would have been an easy fix, what a shame.
Loved this video. I work as a BMW tech over here in Australia and I personally don't like these engines as they are terribly unbalanced and lack any general grunt even with all the stuff BMW has done to it. A complaint we get from customers a bit on these engines is that they shake a lot on start up, which is a very normal thing for these to do. They also go through the left engine mount within 100,000km or 60,000 miles due to these being in FWD cars most of the time and the natural unbalance these things have.
3 cylinders are being used in performance SxS's. Mine is a 150 horsepower Yamaha 1000 cc, no turbo. Not bad for a no turbo one liter. Can Am's Maverick is a turbo one liter... 400 horsepower. That's a lot of hp from a one liter turbo triple.
@@TheBandit7613 In performance applications, you're never really at a low enough rpm enough of the time that the (un)balance is a major problem. Neither are you in the lap of "luxury" with good suspension and sound deadening.... Those engines would do a lot better in hybrid applications - have the e-motor handle launches and idling, kick in the ICE at higher speeds and loads. As a side benefit, that would also reduce carbon buildup... everywhere due to significantly less idling at really low cylinder temperatures and air velocites...
@@ZeDestructor00 I halfway agree. These performance SxS's are not exactly smooth running. Imagine the cam on a 150 hp 1000 cc triple. The idle lopes hard. However, the suspensions are the most advanced in the motorsports world with 24" of travel and Fox bypass coil over shocks. They ride amazing. I completely dismantled mine when it was brand new to install sound deadening mat all over. I couldn't hear myself think. I think it's still amazing that we are getting 400 hp from 1000 cc's, the motor weighs about 90 lbs.
Not possible to Balance that out it’s from rpm varying dramatically between cylinders firing only “solution” would be putting a massive flywheel on it.
I drove for a weekend the 218i. It's a nice engine and paired with a ZFHP8 it good and gives high MPGs. It didn't feel like a 3 cylinder driving it. Thanks for bringing it to the channel. But I'm still waiting for the Ford Diesel F9DA, KKDA and the Fiat 1.6 Multijet and 1.9 Multijet. Almost all these engines are immortal.
If those rings were the cause, a little trans fluid in the plug hole and let sit while you put the plugs back in, it’ll free those rings up, I believe that engine was replaced because of that balancer sadly. Great video
Unfortunately they took the good stuff (sperm whale oil) out of ATF back in the 70s. (Save the Whales!) So it's really not much for a detergent additive package these days. Valvoline makes a magic engine oil for Cummins that does have some pretty strong cleaning properties.
I own one of these! '15 Cooper. Sweetheart of an engine. Bit rough of a runner, but smooth revving with good power, and excellent fuel mileage on the highway. 123,000 kms so far, hoping to stick with this car for a long, long time
Oh I know! But the B series is pretty damn solid, there’s records of Minis hitting over half a million with original engine I’m just genuinely impressed by how good this little engine is, is all
I was wondering if some customers buy these engines for the fuel economy and dont work them hard enough for long enough. The engines dont get hot enough to burn off the carbon. In my experience it can be better to work an engine at higher revs rather than let it slog and overstress it. I think that engine had been run too slow.
@@jonathanflatman I believe you are 100% correct. With the trend for low friction rings if the engine isn't used hard occasionally they can suffer bore glazing and high oil consumption. Under harder use the cylinder pressure pushes the rings out against the bore to keep the sealing surfaces working well.
Another great video. You’re bloody mad Eric. I love your humour, absolutely brilliant. No carnage unfortunately, but still great to watch. See you next tear down.
As a former Mini salesperson whose desk was RIGHT next to the service advisors’, I was surprised to hear that you didn’t have anything bad to say about this engine. 😅
Sounds like you worked at mini when the engines were made by Peugeot and Chrysler… the B 38s and 48s have maybe1/20 of the problems those pieces of shit had
Why are these B38's so expensive? I can give you 2 or 3 reasons: "BMW tax". "Bring More Washingtons". "Bring My Wallet". LOL! I have a 2018 MINI Cooper S with the 4 cylinder version of this little turbo engine, the 2 liter B46. There is also the B48, which is (I believe) the John Cooper Works version of the same 2.0 B46. Very fun little engines, and great fun in MINI's for sure. But when stuff goes wrong....well, that's gonna hurt, I'm sure! Thanks, Eric, for the awesome teardowns and insights! The Mazda Renesis Rotary was especially cool, as I always wanted to see how these work in real life, not just pictures and exploded or cutaway diagrams. I actually replace a 13B (I think) in like an 84 RX-& back in the late 80's or early 90's at a shop I worked at in Northern California. We yanked it and installed a rebuilt unit, so never got into the internals. But that 4 barrel carb and all those vacuum lines? What a mess! It all worked out, but was quite time-consuming. Take care, man. And stay safe!
It's Cross hatching Eric the X pattern on the walls is a symbol of either A. A well maintained engine or B. A recently rebuilt/built engine. The matching crosshatches to retain oil in the X grooves keeping the cylinder and piston lubricated better, if the cylinders are glossy/mirror Finnish they WILL NOT retain oil and will lead to premature failure faster due to excessive wear.
He was referring to the strange V or X shaped pattern at the top of the bore found in the center cylinder. Not the cross hatch, which he would be familiar with. Maybe it’s caused by cylinder distortion?
This engine was improperly broken in. The glazing is from lots of idling and low engine load during break in period. Remember during break in or the first hour of your engine running, start, 1500 rpm vary the RPM up to 60% of it's rev range for the first little bit until warm, then take it out and put some acceleration on it, and put a couple 80% throttle pulls and on a new motor you should take it to WOT within the first day of owning it. This engine was burning oil because glazing makes it harder to scrape oil off the cylinder walls, it also hurts compression. I think this guy was burning oil from clogged rings not scraping the glazed walls, and was owned by someone who cared for their car. I think looking at the cylinder head and edges of the exhaust valves there's evidence of oil burning and someone tried to clean it out with seafoam or a top end cleaner of some kind. I bet if you looked at the the exhaust valve stem it's got carbon build up. I bet jiffy lube or whoever sold them a top end clean for their oil burning issue which was caused by their improper break in. I've seen this a fair bit with late model cars, modern engines are especially prone to glazing i think because of the harder cylinder walls and smaller piston rings. I honestly think they need to be run in at the factory to prevent this sort of thing. Good new is these engines are definitely worth rebuilding and rebuildable cores aren't cheap! We can knock the glaze off easily but we can't overbore them because of their coating, so we always need good blocks, everything else we can machine and fix but blocks are one and done. So this core engine is worth a lot to a rebuilder, they're 4500 used up here, i would grab it for a fair price but I'm in another country.
Maybe he listened to you , my manufacturer said no over 3000 rpm during break in . The engines they used to buld back then reached without issues 1 mil km in taxy use
Another enjoyable video. Well done. I don't agree with you when you say you can't clean the carbon. Audi and VW have this same issue. The European car manufacturers are hell bent building over engineered undependable trash. Audi actually has in their owners manual 1 quart per 1000 miles is normal oil consumption!. You can remove the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with gum out carb cleaner liquid. Turn the engine over 5 revolutions every couple of hours then refill. do this for 24 hours. This will free up the oil control ring and open the oil drain passages and stop oil consumption. There are youtube videos on how to do this. The low tension rings the Europeans are using are total trash. I did the gumout treatment on one of my customers VW Passat. She was burning 3 quarts of oil every couple of weeks. The gumout treatment worked for me.
Again. Teardown done well. With the needed attention, with a good amount of humour. Very very well done. I would love a BMW N20 teardown. Preferably one that was still running, withouth the snapped timing chain. Cheers from Belgium.
We all still love the weekend teardowns, even those less than catastrophic. Those the best, of course. This channel has tought me so much about cars engines 😅
No joke about learning about engines. Eric brings in so much variety of engines, and does it with great enthusiasm. That Bentley engine was probably a once-in-a-lifetime video. Doesn’t matter if he doesn’t know what to do. He’ll just takes it apart and see what happens.
When is not racing season, I absolutely love spending part of my Saturday nights with you. You're humor is awesome You're self-deprecating nature makes me laugh a younger me and you could be friends
If anything, 2 bolts was actually too much. Also, that drain plug is common at quick lubes for when there is no longer any thread left in the pan, It is meant as a last resort until the pan can be replaced or repaired. I know of many cars that have used one of those for 50k+ miles.
How do you strip the threads in the pan unless you torque it excessively? I have a couple of high mileage (400k+ miles) cars that get regular oil changes. This has never happened to me.
@@justincase9471 3 ugga-dugga'll do it. And then the neanderthal in the pit does a full send for 30s without even hand-starting the plug for good measure!
@@justincase9471 Well, either you have a torque wrench and use it correctly, or you're smart enough to know how much grunt is too much. At some point someone German torqued it.....Gutentight!
How many hondas have you changed the oil on? The torque spec on the drain plug is almost the same as what it takes to pull the threads out. So common so, that helicoil makes a kit just for them. @@justincase9471
Eric, I hope you don’t mind that I have told several mechanics about your channel especially the V10 with a broken crankshaft, that was amazing, & I don’t use that word, it’s just not in my vocabulary.
Hey Erik, I love the channel. Keep the teardowns and carnage coming! Please do a Tiburon GT engine, I’m very interesred in it, because I had one and loved it back in the day…
😁 Love this one...Creative solutions to making things work in an iddy, biddy engine. Eric, as always, your wit, informative style and commentary flow just make watching these teardowns delightful. And around here, it makes it fun. If DB threatens to make me watch a knitting video, I just tell her she has to watch I DO CARS. I don't ever have to look at any perls!
I saw pistons like that after a friend put diesel in instead of gasoline by mistake and the engine smoked from that time on, after we changed the rings and cleaned the heads we put it back and it ran perfect, still running today and that was ten years ago!
I understand it is a joke, but breaking down BMW engine codes: B58B30O1 (2017-21 BMW M240i) B The first letter designates engine family: B being the modular engines that share designs through all models. S being for M Division designed engines (Motorsport and high end). M Pre 2001. N Post 2001. 58 The next 2 numbers denote Cylinder Count and Technical Reiteration/Design Update. 3 - 3 Cylinder 4 - 4 Cylinder 5 - 6 Cylinder 6 - 8 Cylinder 7 - 12 Cylinder 8 - 10 Cylinder (it’s in this order because they didn’t make a 10 Cylinder until AFTER 12 Cylinders were mostly fazed out) 8 - 8th iteration/Redesign before production. B This one is for fuel and engine layout (Longitudinal vs Transverse) But all modern BMW’s (not mini) use only 2 or 3 of these generally: B - Petroleum Longitudinal (front to back) D - Diesel Longitudinal H - Hydrogen 30 This next number is engine displacement without the decimal 15 - 1.5L 20 - 2.0L 30 - 3.0L O This next letter stands for engine power output Zero (0 not O) - New Development U - Low Output M - Middle Output or Standard O - High output S - Super T - Top or Maximum Output 1 This last one is for Update Post Initial engine production, more like updates into the final design, usual denounced with a TU for anything after 1, but 1 means first gen, TU or 2, means 2nd gen of the same engine, TU2 is 3rd gen, etc. TU itself stands for Technical update.
It's called a pan saver, usually lube shops put them in if the pan threada are screwed up beyond a thread cutter/ don't have one that'll fit. Most lube shops won't drop an oil pan so they'll put it in as a stopgap.
@@dougrobinson8602 The M54 had a problem with carbon clogging the oil control rings. They were one piece 'I' (eye) cross section low tension rings with tiny drilled holes for the oil to escape. Oil sludge could clog a hole. Once that happened, the trapped oil would start to bake into hard carbon and trapped oil would cascade the effect to the next ring. Revised rings with long slots instead of pin holes solves the problem, but that's a complete engine tear-down to fix the problem. Fortunately BMW parts and service are famously inexpensive.
I bought an 85' Dodge Daytona turbo Z one time for 400 bucks because the guy thought it had a rod knock, and it turns out just the accessories pulley bolts on the front of the crankshaft were loose.
Similar, Had a person sell me a Supra for 700 cause the "engine was bad" The belt was squealing. I started to tell her cause I felt bad but she said no It's bad I dont want it. Well I'm not going to fight with her about it. You don't pass a fully dealer serviced Supra when it's that price. I don't gets gifts but that one sure was.
That was a great teardown! I didn't know BMW even made a 3 cylinder engine. Quite puzzling! I wouldn't think BMW clientele would want that, but maybe they don't look that close. That was a weird crankshaft, because it looked like there was counterbalance for only 1 cylinder..
This guy hates dodge and yet he was honest with giving the win to the better truck. 😂 lot of hypocrisy here, listening to him complain about the things that didn’t work on the ford, subtle while on the road test. 😅 thanks for the fun video! I have experience with both of these engine options, one in Durango 4.7 2wd 2001 and ford explorer 4.6L 2wd 2003. Towing the same 5000lb load the Durango performed better, although the explorer had 3.73 axle ration and felt strong the transmission shifted horribly. The Durango pulled great with no issues. Both vehicles are still in the family. The explorer has had lots of issues. Engine wise timing tension and guides, spark plugs blown out, oil filter adapter oil leak, intake manifold coolant crossover failure, Transmission failure. Currently runs great at 199k miles. The Durango, exhaust manifold bolts. 187k miles. Runs great still tow with it often. As mechanic I did more work on the 4.6 ford then I did on the 4.7 dodge. Maybe that’s why he wants you to buy the ford…🤪
Don’t know if you have the Mini hybrids in the US. But here in Europe they are used in the hybrids. These engines live a tough life: Too often they are awakened during acceleration onto a highway. They and other motors that live their life in a hybrid are often shut off, cold and then awakened to run straight into the highest rpm range.. Most who drives hybrids don’t have a clue that they should manually warm their combustion engines prior to the drive they will be doing. I have this B38 in my 2018 Mini, and it’s great (No hybrid) Recently I tuned it to 170-180hp - it’s a thrill in sound and dynamics for such an engine.
I think it's that crap ultra thin oil being used. It doesn't seal the ring to cylinder walls as good as thicker oil, so it gooks up the rings. I refuse to use that thin oil. 10W30 is the lowest I go.
That engine is adorable. Put it back, it's not ripe yet. Hah, that was probably my favorite water pump skit I've seen yet. "Yeet!" *BANG* *Sheepish slink away.... Holy crap, a BMW with a timing cover! I've always enjoyed it when you shoot the piston out of the tensioner. Makes a fun noise. .... or when the tensioner shoots its own piston out at you! Hah! Safety box FTW! Between the "wet" exhaust in Cyl 2, the mild glazing, and the stuck rings, I think the combination of burning oil and the clattering of the failed crank pully are what got this engine condemned.
The last shop that did an oil change on my car had to install one of those butterfly drain plugs because the threads on the drain plug and oil pan hole were stripped from all the different shops that overtightened the bolt over the years. The shop wanted me to get a new oil pan for $400. A decent local shop tapped the oil pan and we installed a Fumoto valve. I couldn't WAIT to get that butterfly plug off my car.
I have one of these engines in my F55. Encouraging that the intake carbon buildup wasn’t bad and oil looked good even with I assume the factory recommended extended service intervals. However hte roller wear give me pause about using 0W20. I think that was a move by BMW for fuel economy at the expense of longevity. Not sure about the piston carbon around the rings. Maybe a lot of cold idling. Again, 0W20 is probably a bad idea unless you do longer trips in cold weather.
2 things you might address. The stupid 12 point spark plugs are worth mentioning- that is not a standard 12 point, nor a triple square. It's proprietary to BMW AFIAK. So that's annoying. And, what is with the appearance of bright orange on the halves of the rod bearings?
The crank pulley/balancer is NOT supposed to be like that. As a MINI tech I've seen it a couple of times (actually have on in the shop right now) and it creates a noise that sounds almost indistinguishable from rod knock. So it wouldn't surprise me if an independent shop heard that, and replaced the engine. Lastly that is actually an updated balancer, the older style starts free-wheeling when it fails.
I have a mini with this engine and I am willing to bet it was mainly the crankshaft pulley on top of possibly burning oil. possibly the oil was burning causing the owner to not trust the engine, luckily mine does not burn oil. And for the crankshaft Pulley it is not supposed to turn like that. it is supposed to be one solid piece and not move around. Mine did go out and I lost charge and my car started overheating... because the belt was not turning the water pump or alternator. luckily I was close to home so it wasn’t a huge deal but it is an issue that could potentially strand someone causing them to completely get rid of the car... especially knowing minis reputation.
Good evening Eric. Mini engine from a Mini. Hopefully it will have maximum damage 💥. After a few minutes in easily one of the cleanest engines Eric has broken down and probably can run
I have a theory. This engine somehow got hot. The baked on oil on the piston skirts and the very light scoring in the bore would lead me to believe the oil was overheated either due to no oil cooler or the engine coolant getting too hot. N series an B series BMW engines are known for having very strong headgaskets on the turbo engines. So its unlikely a headgasket failed. However this would also coincide with the center cylinder looking "wet." It appears that the rings on the pistons are not able to move out of their grooves to seal against the cylinder walls from excessive heat. Nor can they allow combustion gasses to get behind them and push them out at that point whenall that carbon builds up. Being a turbo engine the compression is fairly low in B series engines but I bet this one was really low. Also N series and B series BMW's have a very specific procedure for bleeding air out of the coolant system. I would guess something happened where this wasn't done right ultimately leading to the engine loosing power and failing.
My hunch is that this engine was pulled out because the rattly pulley was a good excuse. Way back in the day we used to see ford escort motors like this, fully carbonated by some very very very careful maybe older person who drove it very slowly and carefully. Some of these little motors need some heat to keep them clean because they are actually a reasonably high performance so run cold. If you drive them as expected you will enjoy them for their performance and they will love you because you got them warm. We used to fix hard starting and missing etc by a quick trip down the highway to buy an ice cream at a town about 40 kms away all on the customer who thanked you very much for fixing their much loved car. If you hit areas where there's a little too much law enforcement just run in a lower gear so you can keep the motor making as much power as possible to keep it err hot. I have changed the oil before and after this tuning process to try and get rid of the moisture which builds up in them as the oils back then were not as effective at dealing with moisture as modern oils. BTW a word of caution, it is best they don't witness some parts of the process.
from all of us who took apart our toys as a kid, we are here and we thank you
Represent!
whaha i did as a kid too. brand spanking new radio... took it apart.. my dad was mad as hell when i came to him Daddy can we put this back togheter hahaha.
Oh my god yes this is so true
That brought back a few memories 😂
😂 pretty much how I began a career in computers that has consistently put a roof over my family's head. I was about 8 years old, dad tossed me a broken VCR and said have at it. So I did, and fixed it. Never really stopped taking things apart ever since, just got marginally better at putting them back together again
The safety box actually worked. That was amazing.
I hope the safety tote was watching from his retirement home 🍻
Nothing wrong with this engine, needs new harmonic balancer, new rings, quick bore hone. They heard a rattle, got a quote for repairs and scraped it???
Kinda like that one time the Is It A Good Idea To Microwave This? boys' tin-foil shield also actually worked when they tossed a Lexus airbag in.
This weeks alternate title: Attack of the Killer Timing Chain Tensioner!
Box definitely did its job. He would for sure have died.
BMW tech here, gear for the oil pump on those engines are left-hand threads
assuming you tear down another in the future, love your videos and increasingly more popular methods of throwing water pumps
I wondered if that was the case when he tried if lefty loosey and it didn't budge.
BMW tech, I think the gooky rings are that stupid thin oil being used to save gas. The rings don't seal as well with ultra thin oil and start burning oil leaving deposits on the rings.
Piss on everyone, I'm using 10W30.
well we use 0w-30 anyways @@TheBandit7613 🤷♂
I pray everything works out for you! Thank you for so much input on that BMW Engine. Nice to have someone with knowledge speak out.
What's your opinion on synthetic oils and hybrid synthetic.
Piss on it, what type of oil do you think is best in your opinion. I could probably research this myself what if you answer thank you.❤😂
Im glad someone said it
Blue... best prybar in a supporting role!
blue the prybar fanclub
Blue is the MVP. Most Valuable Prybar.
Big blue cawk
sure I saw littel red pry once... save the RED
Many years ago, in the mid fifties, my neighbor was the town mechanic for the town of Sleepy Hollow, yes, the town where the headless horseman rode, and he allowed me to watch him rebuild the fire chief’s cars engine. I was about seven or eight years old at the time. I remember him tightening the head bolts, and he told me that they tighten till they squeal! Seventy years later, I use a torque wrench now, but I still remember the old ways. Great video! He used quantities of Permatex, and I can still remember the smell, and the way it transferred to the entire body of the eight year old!
I love permatex!
@@chrisbrown3925 me too! It brings back old memories and as far as I know, it works well!
I enjoyed your story. Mentally you sound very sound and I pray it continues that way until the gate opened up for you. God bless you
If you mean Permatex Gaskacinch or Hitack, I'm right there with ya. I can literally smell it from my memory. It brings back memories of the thermostat housing on my '65 Mustang.
@@dougrobinson8602 I don’t know if it came in various flavors in the mid 50s
I am loving the little skits with the water pumps.
I'm actually starting to look forward to the water pump skits alone.
YEET
The life expectancy of a secondhand water pump is very short in Eric's workshop..
Yes, more water pump skits
Should work up to celebrity appearances to do skits involving only the water pump!
The water pump bits are getting more and more elaborate, given enough time we'll se one shot into space.
this ain't fast and furious 🤣
🤣🤣🤣 To boldly go where no water pump has gone before!!
Water pump III : The search for coolant
The Orbital Accelerator by SpinLaunch
@@ryanbrochu3336 One small step for water pump, one huge leap for water pumpkind
These engine teardowns are my bedtime story and are very relaxing to watch.
Yes, I look forward to every Saturday evening.
As an owner of a 3 cylinder Mini Countryman, I thank you. It was interesting and informative to see the inner workings of that engine. I didn't realize the timing set was in the rear. Means any fault there would mean an engine pull. Ugh. But, the design looks stout and ours receives Mini motor oil and filters every 5000 miles. So I have expectations of a long service life. Cause we love the Countryman. Love the tear downs and look forward to the next water pump toss. And if you ever get a shot at an Isuzu diesel, I think that would be interesting.
Sell it before 120k and you will always have fond memories.
3 CHEERS FOR SAFETY BOX!!! Eric lives to wrench another day. I saw it with my own two peepers, that puppy was supersonic! okay, it was doing the speed limit in a school zone. lol
I second your harmonic balancer theory.
I once worked on an Altima with lean codes. Last shop couldn’t figure it out so they replaced the engine. Turns out it was a rolled throttle body gasket.
The last shop figured it out...they found a way to extract maximum cash from the customer.
@@encinobalboa I'm sure it was warranty replacement.
I bought a Chevrolet 327 once that had the pulleys loose. Ran fine for many more years .
Altima issues are typically owner related in my experience.
My four year old said “daddy, I like watching him take engines apart, maybe he can take our engine apart.”
😆 Your kid’s going to be a future car enthusiast, maybe. Could be any engineering type.
Lol 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Your engine will be taken apart. Might not be today, might not be tomorrow, but it will be
Time for a cheap engine !
You'd be correct in assuming they got rid of that engine because of the crank pulley. I don't know WHY but BMW has had issues with every single Mini engine failing at the crank pulley, the Tritec engines would lose the rubber insert on the harmonic and destroy the timing cover if not caught soon enough and it sounds like a rod knock, the Prince engine did the same exact thing and sounds exactly like a rod knock and all of the new 3 and 4 cylinder B engines have recalls on the crank pulley, you'll get a horrible grinding and tapping noise and none of your accessories will work, you'll get alternator light and no working AC. The new pulley is also something like $900 list and $600 my price for the OEM, febi also has it which is the OEM for Mini, their kit comes with new bolts as well and is only $365 my price. Nice thing is that it only calls for about 2ish hours of labor and should be a warranty/recall job, take wheel off, remove wheel cover, remove belt, remove crank pulley, inspect seal for leakage or damage, replace if leaking or damage, slap it back together.
@debtfree_2023 I have had many many many R50-3 and R56-7 Mini's come my way with a "knock" where another shop told them it needed a new engine and quoted them some insane price only for it to be the harmonic coming apart. Another common failure on the Prince engine R56+ is the water pump pulley coming apart and it also sounds like a knock because the spring loaded idler tensioner that connects the pulleys bounces with the RPM. Lot of shops either don't know these cars, don't care or just want to sell an engine swap at the cost of a harmonic and scam their customers.
This is why I read all the comments on this channel - great learning opportunity.
And when the pully shreds to bits it stops running the water pump too.
Entertainment for the entire family.
My guess is some tech talked the customer into a new motor because “now you don’t know what else might happen”.
For mine we stopped it, towed it, threw on a new pully, refilled the coolant and prayed to whatever is the BMW equivalent of Jesus (savior of expensive motors).
So far the worst thing I’ve found is that it warped that little plastic timing cover on the front of the engine. 🤷♂️
@@ntcolonel Not sure about what the tech thought or may have said but I've seen this issue countless times, on the Tritec when the harmonic starts to go it smacks the timing cover and sounds EXACTLY like a rod knock, a lot of techs would probably immediately just say it's a rod knock and leave it at that but I have never seen the Tritec engine with a rod knock out of the dozens that I have had come my way. The Prince engine has 2 ways it can sound like a rod knock, firstly the harmonic fails the exact same way and hits the timing cover, the second is the pulley for the water pump, it's got rubber around it and acts like it's own belt drive, these commonly shred themselves and create gaps in the rubber and it sounds a lot like a rod knock when it hits the spring loaded idler attached to the tensioner. When you lose the water pump pulley rubber I always recommend replacing the water pump as well because it beats and shocks the bearings of the water pump and isn't worth the risk. Glad you guys were smarter than the mechanics who've diagnosed these by ear and up sold a new motor to poor unsuspecting customers, good on you. 👍
3 cyl engines have a lot of "coasting" time between cylinder firing events, which makes them really rough and shaky at lower engine speeds. Combine that with a lot of load on the crankshaft pulley (due to alternator and AC) and probably rubber that is too soft in the pulley to try and dampen the vibration (or even hydraulic dampening) and they're going to be failure prone.
4 cyl are only marginally better, but it largely depends on how the engine is tuned. If the engine is run a lot at low RPM and higher load (like most modern turbocharged engines are) it will also create a lot of torsional vibration in the pulley.
I’ve been a mechanic for 37 years and now retired ,
keep up the videos you’re awesome
The drain plug is a "repair" plug that places like Jiffy Lube install when they over-torque the regular plug and strip out the oil pan. It's meant to be installed and then not touched again until the pan is replaced.
A) I didn't know that. B) Thank you for reminding me why I don't go to quickie oil change places!
Which begs the question of what oil was used in this engine. Just because it's clean doesn't mean it's the correct grade. FWIW, I only use BMW branded 5w30 in my N52. Yeah, I pay too much, but at 178,000 miles my oil analysis shows almost no wear metals. Blackstone says keep doing what I'm doing, and so I will. Regular changes at 7500 miles, 90% highway driving with daily pulls to redline to keep oil flowing through the vanos and exercise the valvetronic.
@@dougrobinson8602 good point! I thought the engine had been maintained by how clean it was inside. But you're right, that doesn't guarantee that the correct oil was used. It could have been cheap crap changed frequently.
@@dougrobinson8602 Wow 7500 miles is a long time between oil changes. I still remember what a Toyota engineer that did engine development said, "If you buy a car that you plan to keep and drive for as long as possible, change the oil every 3000 miles. Even if you buy cheaper oil, just change it every 3000 miles, that's the number one thing you can do to extend the life of your engine." I can't exactly remember where I saw the interview with that guy, but it was on RUclips. He was either a Nissan or Toyota engineer, I can't exactly remember. He may have been the designer of the new American Skyline GT-R engine, that sounds familiar.
@@jtjones4727I run Toyota’s and Lexus, change between 7500-10000 with full synthetic and I’ve never had a bad black stone report, but again it’s a Toyota…
Finally, a snowmobile engine!
More like I can't believe that BMW has stooped so low as to be manufacturing lawn mower engines...
Greasy old triple bud!
@@retiredbore378 Just a typical yank response. If it doesn't have 8 cylinders and do 10mpg then it must be a "lawnmower engine".
@@ferrumignis As a yank, I completely agree. Give me small, boosted, efficient engines any day!
Yamaha might disagree.
I've seen older GM 3800's get replaced because the harmonic balancer was causing a helluva clatter.
Some Chrysler 2.7L engines got replaced because the O-ring around the primary chain tensioner took a vacation to the bottom of the oil pan.
Stuff like that does happen.
Waaay back, when I was a student, 1974 - only 50 years ago now!) my ancient Vauxhall Viva had a horrible engine knock - sounded like main bearings. I took it to the local dealer in Brighton UK. The workshop manager went straight to the crankshaft pulley and tightened up the fixing nut. No more knock. No charge either. Sometimes people were pretty good to youngsters. Talk about relieved!!
Wow, got here early. My guess looking at it would be that the cylinder wear has allowed some (not a lot, but some) oil past the rings, which lead to the appearance of blue smoke. Probably just at start up at first, but over time it built up around the rings and such and allowed more and more oil past. At a point, it went from a blue smoke on start up the a blue smoke at RPM and on the road down to blue smoke at idle, which is when it got pulled out. I am thinking it just ends up being a question of clearances exceeding what the rings could handle, and then it was a cascading failure over time.
Love the two boit engine stand and the safety box. All good stuff.
Howdy, im an engine man for 50+ years. I worked in engine R&D for quite a few years and powerboat racing too.
Ive blown up many an engine, my personal best was cutting an alloy 3 cyl engine in half with the flailing con rod.
Love your videos, love the method, love the failure analysis, love the video work and perfect time lapse, but especially your descriptive sense of humor.
I will forever know them as piston nuggets.
I am a huge fan and will watch you again and again and again.
Go blue
Looks like maybe a new car getting the "you don't need to break in a new modern engine" break in method. Glaze the cylinder walls, rings don't seat, uses oil that gums up the rings, etc.
First and every oil change is like 10k miles I bet.
First oil change should be about 1000 miles, then subsequent between 5000-10000 miles depending on the manufacturer.
Never thought I'd see this one. We had a '15 Mini Cooper with this. Fascinating to see inside. I had no idea it was so complex.
I'd say you're right about the damper. Years ago, I worked for a manufacturer that made a torsional harmonic damper / isolator pulley for the Mini Cooper S. It was similar in design to the one on this engine. The pulley had a limited range of axial rotation relative to the damper, controlled by an elastomer spring, and they did fail occasionally.
These videos help me understand engines better. Thank you.
Every time a chain guide that gets tossed, I expect to hear a cat yeow off screen.
That could be a good sound effect.
@@milwaukeeroadjim9253 YES! Great gag! There should be a sound effect. Cat yowl, dog yelp, cow bellow......metal pipe drop? LOL
If that happens in the next video, we know who to thank for the idea!
Recommend he uses the Wilhelm Scream
I owned a 2015 Mini Cooper with this engine for a few years. Great power around town and incredible fuel mileage. It had a valve cover leak that was fixed under warranty. No other issues though.
This tear-down was frustrating as no smoking gun for what’s wrong with it. I have the B58 in my X5 and so far love it. I agree that BMW seems to have finally learned some lessons on engine design (longevity-wise).
I've been enjoying your teardowns for a number of years. I like the way you take apart the engines without destroying them. But, I don't enjoy the way you disrespect the parts like the water pump and chain guides. If that is what your viewers want and that's what keeps you going, then I can live with it. Thanks for the teardown and all your hard work. Best to you and your family. 👍
No the pulley is not supposed to be that way. The serpentine belt pulley part of it is supposed to be sprung and dampened (sort of like a dual mass flywheel) to make life easier on the auxillary components (due to the large gap in firing interval, the engine experience significant rotational speed oscillation 3 times each revolution, especially at idle and low rpm) and someone might have written it off thinking thinking the failed damper was the internals ratteling, especially if it rattled in combination with oil consumption.
And speaking of potential oil consumption... These engines have plasma spray sintered iron bores (like the Ford 1.0 ECO-Boost) which have EXTREMELY GOOD oil retention properties, and if the owner decided he knew better that BMW (some unknowledge seems to be at play with oil-changes, due to having broken the drain plug and installed a janky replacement) and filled a higher viscosity oil in it (thinking 0W20 or whatever is too thin), and with the improper spec too boot (wrong additive package in the oil) Then the piston rings would basicly just float on the now way too thick oil film, and let oil seep in to the cylinders in any off-boost situation...
Basically this, bad maintanence and lack of knowledge was the end of this engine. The faulty serpentine belt pulley would have been an easy fix, what a shame.
0w-40 BMW LL-01 spec oil or any "euro blend" oil that meets spec for anyone wondering.
Loved this video. I work as a BMW tech over here in Australia and I personally don't like these engines as they are terribly unbalanced and lack any general grunt even with all the stuff BMW has done to it. A complaint we get from customers a bit on these engines is that they shake a lot on start up, which is a very normal thing for these to do. They also go through the left engine mount within 100,000km or 60,000 miles due to these being in FWD cars most of the time and the natural unbalance these things have.
3 cylinders are being used in performance SxS's. Mine is a 150 horsepower Yamaha 1000 cc, no turbo. Not bad for a no turbo one liter.
Can Am's Maverick is a turbo one liter... 400 horsepower. That's a lot of hp from a one liter turbo triple.
That is fairly decent, but they're not the best powertrain for a car @@TheBandit7613
@@TheBandit7613 In performance applications, you're never really at a low enough rpm enough of the time that the (un)balance is a major problem. Neither are you in the lap of "luxury" with good suspension and sound deadening....
Those engines would do a lot better in hybrid applications - have the e-motor handle launches and idling, kick in the ICE at higher speeds and loads. As a side benefit, that would also reduce carbon buildup... everywhere due to significantly less idling at really low cylinder temperatures and air velocites...
@@ZeDestructor00 I halfway agree. These performance SxS's are not exactly smooth running. Imagine the cam on a 150 hp 1000 cc triple.
The idle lopes hard.
However, the suspensions are the most advanced in the motorsports world with 24" of travel and Fox bypass coil over shocks. They ride amazing.
I completely dismantled mine when it was brand new to install sound deadening mat all over. I couldn't hear myself think.
I think it's still amazing that we are getting 400 hp from 1000 cc's, the motor weighs about 90 lbs.
Not possible to
Balance that out it’s from rpm varying dramatically between cylinders firing only “solution” would be putting a massive flywheel on it.
I drove for a weekend the 218i. It's a nice engine and paired with a ZFHP8 it good and gives high MPGs. It didn't feel like a 3 cylinder driving it. Thanks for bringing it to the channel.
But I'm still waiting for the Ford Diesel F9DA, KKDA and the Fiat 1.6 Multijet and 1.9 Multijet. Almost all these engines are immortal.
I been watching these videos as they come out for a few months and I just realized you must have every possible kind of bolt imaginable laying around
Time for my Saturday night teardown fix! Thanks again and keep up the great videos!
This episode was worth it just for watching the Spaceballs helmet protect you from the attacking tensioner!
If those rings were the cause, a little trans fluid in the plug hole and let sit while you put the plugs back in, it’ll free those rings up, I believe that engine was replaced because of that balancer sadly. Great video
Unfortunately they took the good stuff (sperm whale oil) out of ATF back in the 70s. (Save the Whales!) So it's really not much for a detergent additive package these days. Valvoline makes a magic engine oil for Cummins that does have some pretty strong cleaning properties.
I own one of these! '15 Cooper. Sweetheart of an engine. Bit rough of a runner, but smooth revving with good power, and excellent fuel mileage on the highway. 123,000 kms so far, hoping to stick with this car for a long, long time
These are nothing like the good old BMWs
Oh I know! But the B series is pretty damn solid, there’s records of Minis hitting over half a million with original engine
I’m just genuinely impressed by how good this little engine is, is all
I was wondering if some customers buy these engines for the fuel economy and dont work them hard enough for long enough. The engines dont get hot enough to burn off the carbon. In my experience it can be better to work an engine at higher revs rather than let it slog and overstress it. I think that engine had been run too slow.
@@jonathanflatmanyeah, regular Italian tune-up and good to go.
@@jonathanflatman I believe you are 100% correct. With the trend for low friction rings if the engine isn't used hard occasionally they can suffer bore glazing and high oil consumption. Under harder use the cylinder pressure pushes the rings out against the bore to keep the sealing surfaces working well.
Thats wild...i had no idea the insanely potent B58 had a such a small little brother. Was well aware of the B48, but not this.
Must be the starter for last week's engine
Bigger cars use this as a generator engine. It replaces the alternator
Another great video. You’re bloody mad Eric. I love your humour, absolutely brilliant. No carnage unfortunately, but still great to watch. See you next tear down.
As a former Mini salesperson whose desk was RIGHT next to the service advisors’, I was surprised to hear that you didn’t have anything bad to say about this engine. 😅
I think he is assuming that we all know how bad they are…?
Sounds like you worked at mini when the engines were made by Peugeot and Chrysler… the B 38s and 48s have maybe1/20 of the problems those pieces of shit had
The B38 (and B48 / B58) are one of the best BMW engines. The predecessor, the N13 was garbage however.
I love the cameo appearances of you colleagues!
Nice little motor from ze germanz. Looks like everyone's learnt from the early ecoboom engines with the drill hole between cylinders
Have 1 in my garage. Around 41k miles and works great. 3 series B38 + ZF8HP
Why are these B38's so expensive? I can give you 2 or 3 reasons: "BMW tax". "Bring More Washingtons". "Bring My Wallet". LOL! I have a 2018 MINI Cooper S with the 4 cylinder version of this little turbo engine, the 2 liter B46. There is also the B48, which is (I believe) the John Cooper Works version of the same 2.0 B46. Very fun little engines, and great fun in MINI's for sure. But when stuff goes wrong....well, that's gonna hurt, I'm sure! Thanks, Eric, for the awesome teardowns and insights! The Mazda Renesis Rotary was especially cool, as I always wanted to see how these work in real life, not just pictures and exploded or cutaway diagrams. I actually replace a 13B (I think) in like an 84 RX-& back in the late 80's or early 90's at a shop I worked at in Northern California. We yanked it and installed a rebuilt unit, so never got into the internals. But that 4 barrel carb and all those vacuum lines? What a mess! It all worked out, but was quite time-consuming. Take care, man. And stay safe!
It's Cross hatching Eric the X pattern on the walls is a symbol of either A. A well maintained engine or B. A recently rebuilt/built engine. The matching crosshatches to retain oil in the X grooves keeping the cylinder and piston lubricated better, if the cylinders are glossy/mirror Finnish they WILL NOT retain oil and will lead to premature failure faster due to excessive wear.
He was referring to the strange V or X shaped pattern at the top of the bore found in the center cylinder. Not the cross hatch, which he would be familiar with.
Maybe it’s caused by cylinder distortion?
@@gordonborsboom7460 probably the injector pattern then from the hot spots
Interesting@@kaleb8518
Auto correct is a piss pour way to do your grammar 🙃 @elcactuar3354
This engine was improperly broken in. The glazing is from lots of idling and low engine load during break in period. Remember during break in or the first hour of your engine running, start, 1500 rpm vary the RPM up to 60% of it's rev range for the first little bit until warm, then take it out and put some acceleration on it, and put a couple 80% throttle pulls and on a new motor you should take it to WOT within the first day of owning it. This engine was burning oil because glazing makes it harder to scrape oil off the cylinder walls, it also hurts compression. I think this guy was burning oil from clogged rings not scraping the glazed walls, and was owned by someone who cared for their car. I think looking at the cylinder head and edges of the exhaust valves there's evidence of oil burning and someone tried to clean it out with seafoam or a top end cleaner of some kind. I bet if you looked at the the exhaust valve stem it's got carbon build up. I bet jiffy lube or whoever sold them a top end clean for their oil burning issue which was caused by their improper break in.
I've seen this a fair bit with late model cars, modern engines are especially prone to glazing i think because of the harder cylinder walls and smaller piston rings. I honestly think they need to be run in at the factory to prevent this sort of thing.
Good new is these engines are definitely worth rebuilding and rebuildable cores aren't cheap! We can knock the glaze off easily but we can't overbore them because of their coating, so we always need good blocks, everything else we can machine and fix but blocks are one and done. So this core engine is worth a lot to a rebuilder, they're 4500 used up here, i would grab it for a fair price but I'm in another country.
Maybe he listened to you , my manufacturer said no over 3000 rpm during break in . The engines they used to buld back then reached without issues 1 mil km in taxy use
Another enjoyable video. Well done. I don't agree with you when you say you can't clean the carbon. Audi and VW have this same issue. The European car manufacturers are hell bent building over engineered undependable trash. Audi actually has in their owners manual 1 quart per 1000 miles is normal oil consumption!. You can remove the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with gum out carb cleaner liquid. Turn the engine over 5 revolutions every couple of hours then refill. do this for 24 hours. This will free up the oil control ring and open the oil drain passages and stop oil consumption. There are youtube videos on how to do this. The low tension rings the Europeans are using are total trash. I did the gumout treatment on one of my customers VW Passat. She was burning 3 quarts of oil every couple of weeks. The gumout treatment worked for me.
I'm not a mechanic by any means. But sure do love the engine tear downs and how they look inside. Amazing engineering on these engines.
13:05 2 CHAINZ!!!!!
Thank God for that safety box. We almost lost you. 😂
Wow, clean up the pistons, put on new rings, and reassemble (including water pump and guides). Done.
Again.
Teardown done well. With the needed attention, with a good amount of humour.
Very very well done.
I would love a BMW N20 teardown. Preferably one that was still running, withouth the snapped timing chain.
Cheers from Belgium.
Thanks for the Saturday night entertainment Eric. Get some rest, you've earned it!
Thank you for providing such a detail tear down of the B38 engine.
Eric, your preemptive donning of the recommended PPE is inspiring. Thank Heaven for SAFETY BOX!!
Awesome as always Eric! See if you can get your hands on a Nissan KR15DDT. They’ve recently been failing and I’m curious to know why. Take care buddy!
Eric, OSHA would be so proud of your safety program, thanks for another great video.
We all still love the weekend teardowns, even those less than catastrophic. Those the best, of course. This channel has tought me so much about cars engines 😅
No joke about learning about engines. Eric brings in so much variety of engines, and does it with great enthusiasm. That Bentley engine was probably a once-in-a-lifetime video. Doesn’t matter if he doesn’t know what to do. He’ll just takes it apart and see what happens.
When is not racing season, I absolutely love spending part of my Saturday nights with you. You're humor is awesome You're self-deprecating nature makes me laugh a younger me and you could be friends
How close of friends, like touching type friends?
Shut up
@elcactuar3354
If anything, 2 bolts was actually too much.
Also, that drain plug is common at quick lubes for when there is no longer any thread left in the pan, It is meant as a last resort until the pan can be replaced or repaired. I know of many cars that have used one of those for 50k+ miles.
How do you strip the threads in the pan unless you torque it excessively? I have a couple of high mileage (400k+ miles) cars that get regular oil changes. This has never happened to me.
@@justincase9471 3 ugga-dugga'll do it. And then the neanderthal in the pit does a full send for 30s without even hand-starting the plug for good measure!
@@justincase9471 Well, either you have a torque wrench and use it correctly, or you're smart enough to know how much grunt is too much. At some point someone German torqued it.....Gutentight!
How many hondas have you changed the oil on? The torque spec on the drain plug is almost the same as what it takes to pull the threads out. So common so, that helicoil makes a kit just for them. @@justincase9471
@@justincase9471 Some people think an air impact is the right tool for everything......
Eric, I hope you don’t mind that I have told several mechanics about your channel especially the V10 with a broken crankshaft, that was amazing, & I don’t use that word, it’s just not in my vocabulary.
I've never seen that motor torn down, really cool.
Hey Erik, I love the channel. Keep the teardowns and carnage coming! Please do a Tiburon GT engine, I’m very interesred in it, because I had one and loved it back in the day…
😁 Love this one...Creative solutions to making things work in an iddy, biddy engine. Eric, as always, your wit, informative style and commentary flow just make watching these teardowns delightful. And around here, it makes it fun. If DB threatens to make me watch a knitting video, I just tell her she has to watch I DO CARS. I don't ever have to look at any perls!
Thank you Eric, and a special thanks to the Safety Box for possibly saving your life. Short and sweet, a well earned respite. 'Til next time.....
I saw pistons like that after a friend put diesel in instead of gasoline by mistake and the engine smoked from that time on, after we changed the rings and cleaned the heads we put it back and it ran perfect, still running today and that was ten years ago!
video is half the length for half the engine size
10 minutes per cylinder. The way it should be
not half bad...
@@dmitri546 Found the guy setting shop rates!
My weekly splurge video! Never change, Eric
That tensioner was taking no prisoners, it went right for your face, thank god for safty box!
I understand it is a joke, but breaking down BMW engine codes:
B58B30O1 (2017-21 BMW M240i)
B
The first letter designates engine family:
B being the modular engines that share designs through all models.
S being for M Division designed engines (Motorsport and high end).
M Pre 2001.
N Post 2001.
58
The next 2 numbers denote Cylinder Count and Technical Reiteration/Design Update.
3 - 3 Cylinder
4 - 4 Cylinder
5 - 6 Cylinder
6 - 8 Cylinder
7 - 12 Cylinder
8 - 10 Cylinder (it’s in this order because they didn’t make a 10 Cylinder until AFTER 12 Cylinders were mostly fazed out)
8 - 8th iteration/Redesign before production.
B
This one is for fuel and engine layout (Longitudinal vs Transverse)
But all modern BMW’s (not mini) use only 2 or 3 of these generally:
B - Petroleum Longitudinal (front to back)
D - Diesel Longitudinal
H - Hydrogen
30
This next number is engine displacement without the decimal
15 - 1.5L
20 - 2.0L
30 - 3.0L
O
This next letter stands for engine power output
Zero (0 not O) - New Development
U - Low Output
M - Middle Output or Standard
O - High output
S - Super
T - Top or Maximum Output
1
This last one is for Update Post Initial engine production, more like updates into the final design, usual denounced with a TU for anything after 1, but 1 means first gen, TU or 2, means 2nd gen of the same engine, TU2 is 3rd gen, etc. TU itself stands for Technical update.
It's called a pan saver, usually lube shops put them in if the pan threada are screwed up beyond a thread cutter/ don't have one that'll fit. Most lube shops won't drop an oil pan so they'll put it in as a stopgap.
and the wonderful water pump saga continues thank you sir it’s one of my favorite parts of these tear down videos
I bet it would have come around with a good old fashioned italian tune up to burn all that carbon off the pistons.
Why no carbon on the intake valves?
That might burn the carbon off the top of the cylinder, but will only cook the oil between the grooves even harder.
I love the "Italian tune up"!
@@chrisbrown3925 I don't think the B-Series engines have nearly the issue of valve carbon that the N54 and N55 did.
@@dougrobinson8602 The M54 had a problem with carbon clogging the oil control rings. They were one piece 'I' (eye) cross section low tension rings with tiny drilled holes for the oil to escape. Oil sludge could clog a hole. Once that happened, the trapped oil would start to bake into hard carbon and trapped oil would cascade the effect to the next ring.
Revised rings with long slots instead of pin holes solves the problem, but that's a complete engine tear-down to fix the problem. Fortunately BMW parts and service are famously inexpensive.
I bought an 85' Dodge Daytona turbo Z one time for 400 bucks because the guy thought it had a rod knock, and it turns out just the accessories pulley bolts on the front of the crankshaft were loose.
Similar, Had a person sell me a Supra for 700 cause the "engine was bad" The belt was squealing. I started to tell her cause I felt bad but she said no It's bad I dont want it. Well I'm not going to fight with her about it. You don't pass a fully dealer serviced Supra when it's that price. I don't gets gifts but that one sure was.
very creative water pump toss!
The most polite little engine yet
That was a great teardown! I didn't know BMW even made a 3 cylinder engine. Quite puzzling! I wouldn't think BMW clientele would want that, but maybe they don't look that close. That was a weird crankshaft, because it looked like there was counterbalance for only 1 cylinder..
This guy hates dodge and yet he was honest with giving the win to the better truck. 😂 lot of hypocrisy here, listening to him complain about the things that didn’t work on the ford, subtle while on the road test. 😅 thanks for the fun video! I have experience with both of these engine options, one in Durango 4.7 2wd 2001 and ford explorer 4.6L 2wd 2003. Towing the same 5000lb load the Durango performed better, although the explorer had 3.73 axle ration and felt strong the transmission shifted horribly. The Durango pulled great with no issues.
Both vehicles are still in the family. The explorer has had lots of issues. Engine wise timing tension and guides, spark plugs blown out, oil filter adapter oil leak, intake manifold coolant crossover failure, Transmission failure. Currently runs great at 199k miles. The Durango, exhaust manifold bolts. 187k miles. Runs great still tow with it often.
As mechanic I did more work on the 4.6 ford then I did on the 4.7 dodge.
Maybe that’s why he wants you to buy the ford…🤪
Don’t know if you have the Mini hybrids in the US. But here in Europe they are used in the hybrids. These engines live a tough life: Too often they are awakened during acceleration onto a highway. They and other motors that live their life in a hybrid are often shut off, cold and then awakened to run straight into the highest rpm range.. Most who drives hybrids don’t have a clue that they should manually warm their combustion engines prior to the drive they will be doing.
I have this B38 in my 2018 Mini, and it’s great (No hybrid) Recently I tuned it to 170-180hp - it’s a thrill in sound and dynamics for such an engine.
Good thing you went Solid Snake with that carboard box. You might've shot your eye out.
Great so see another upload…🤙
That was SO CLEAN INSIDE. Wow. Wonder how the pistons got so carbony. Carbonated. Carbonaceous.
I think it's that crap ultra thin oil being used. It doesn't seal the ring to cylinder walls as good as thicker oil, so it gooks up the rings. I refuse to use that thin oil.
10W30 is the lowest I go.
Caramel piston rings
If it was a fiat engine we could call it carbonara 😂
was absolutely babied to death. probably never saw past 3k rpms
Cheap oil, town use ?
That engine is adorable. Put it back, it's not ripe yet.
Hah, that was probably my favorite water pump skit I've seen yet. "Yeet!" *BANG* *Sheepish slink away....
Holy crap, a BMW with a timing cover!
I've always enjoyed it when you shoot the piston out of the tensioner. Makes a fun noise.
.... or when the tensioner shoots its own piston out at you! Hah! Safety box FTW!
Between the "wet" exhaust in Cyl 2, the mild glazing, and the stuck rings, I think the combination of burning oil and the clattering of the failed crank pully are what got this engine condemned.
That's a nice half of an engine... )))). Given how clean it was, I'm now puzzled with the way the pistons looked...
The last shop that did an oil change on my car had to install one of those butterfly drain plugs because the threads on the drain plug and oil pan hole were stripped from all the different shops that overtightened the bolt over the years. The shop wanted me to get a new oil pan for $400. A decent local shop tapped the oil pan and we installed a Fumoto valve. I couldn't WAIT to get that butterfly plug off my car.
When tensioners attack LOL
I have one of these engines in my F55. Encouraging that the intake carbon buildup wasn’t bad and oil looked good even with I assume the factory recommended extended service intervals. However hte roller wear give me pause about using 0W20. I think that was a move by BMW for fuel economy at the expense of longevity. Not sure about the piston carbon around the rings. Maybe a lot of cold idling. Again, 0W20 is probably a bad idea unless you do longer trips in cold weather.
8:30 I can relate to 'camera not focusing on the valves' issues.
2 things you might address. The stupid 12 point spark plugs are worth mentioning- that is not a standard 12 point, nor a triple square. It's proprietary to BMW AFIAK. So that's annoying.
And, what is with the appearance of bright orange on the halves of the rod bearings?
The crank pulley/balancer is NOT supposed to be like that. As a MINI tech I've seen it a couple of times (actually have on in the shop right now) and it creates a noise that sounds almost indistinguishable from rod knock. So it wouldn't surprise me if an independent shop heard that, and replaced the engine. Lastly that is actually an updated balancer, the older style starts free-wheeling when it fails.
I have a mini with this engine and I am willing to bet it was mainly the crankshaft pulley on top of possibly burning oil. possibly the oil was burning causing the owner to not trust the engine, luckily mine does not burn oil. And for the crankshaft Pulley it is not supposed to turn like that. it is supposed to be one solid piece and not move around. Mine did go out and I lost charge and my car started overheating... because the belt was not turning the water pump or alternator. luckily I was close to home so it wasn’t a huge deal but it is an issue that could potentially strand someone causing them to completely get rid of the car... especially knowing minis reputation.
Love it, been waiting for one of these, to see what goes first
Eric you Sir are funny. Excellent video As usual... Thank you
Good evening Eric. Mini engine from a Mini. Hopefully it will have maximum damage 💥. After a few minutes in easily one of the cleanest engines Eric has broken down and probably can run
Eric,
You guys are great!
Thank you
Paul (in MA)
This channel brings me piece to mind ❤
I have a theory. This engine somehow got hot. The baked on oil on the piston skirts and the very light scoring in the bore would lead me to believe the oil was overheated either due to no oil cooler or the engine coolant getting too hot. N series an B series BMW engines are known for having very strong headgaskets on the turbo engines. So its unlikely a headgasket failed. However this would also coincide with the center cylinder looking "wet." It appears that the rings on the pistons are not able to move out of their grooves to seal against the cylinder walls from excessive heat. Nor can they allow combustion gasses to get behind them and push them out at that point whenall that carbon builds up. Being a turbo engine the compression is fairly low in B series engines but I bet this one was really low.
Also N series and B series BMW's have a very specific procedure for bleeding air out of the coolant system. I would guess something happened where this wasn't done right ultimately leading to the engine loosing power and failing.
My hunch is that this engine was pulled out because the rattly pulley was a good excuse. Way back in the day we used to see ford escort motors like this, fully carbonated by some very very very careful maybe older person who drove it very slowly and carefully. Some of these little motors need some heat to keep them clean because they are actually a reasonably high performance so run cold. If you drive them as expected you will enjoy them for their performance and they will love you because you got them warm. We used to fix hard starting and missing etc by a quick trip down the highway to buy an ice cream at a town about 40 kms away all on the customer who thanked you very much for fixing their much loved car. If you hit areas where there's a little too much law enforcement just run in a lower gear so you can keep the motor making as much power as possible to keep it err hot. I have changed the oil before and after this tuning process to try and get rid of the moisture which builds up in them as the oils back then were not as effective at dealing with moisture as modern oils. BTW a word of caution, it is best they don't witness some parts of the process.
That's a lot of crud between the rings, so I'd suspect it used a lot of oil.
this recalls me back a comment from the LM2 teardown on how awfully similar it is to this series bmw...
Woah! BMW, my favorite ;D Thank you!!