Was fighting a caliper bolt today, old timer grabbed a shorter breaker than mine, TIGHTENED THE BOLT A LITTLE FIRST, then broke it with ease. I am humbled everyday
@@kevinbrigden6276 Had to go to the mechanic with it. Almost melted the caliper bracket using a torch and it still wouldn't come off. Even they used 45 min to get it loose. Oh well don't have that car anymore and thank god for that
Thanks for the reminder about using a breaker bar. The lower bolt always seems to be the toughest. Probably because it’s closest to the road & picks up more grime. I appreciate your taking the time to make this video.
I've had a battle raging for 3 days. Finally won today. A spark plug socket pounded on for a super tight fit, a box end wrench on the back of it, a 4' metal snipe, finally broke loose. One of the bolts, the only trick that worked was the floor jack (thanks for that tip in the comments here) to put enough pressure on the wrench to get that one moving (works if you're on the right side of the vehicle so you're pushing from ground up. So one hernia operation, a pulled groin, ruptured testicle, and,....done! 2001 GMC 2500 HD.
Thank you for the tip! I had two bolts that wouldn't budge. Used penetrating oil, heat and a breaker bar with a hammer. What I really needed was just more leverage. Then bolts moved easily once I added about three feet to my breaker bar with the cheater.
Same experience w my 2015 GMC Sierra. Fortunately there was room for a breaker bar and pounded it with a big lead hammer. A second person is necessary to pre-load the bar flex so it doesn't bounce and to hold the 6 point impact socket straight. **There was lots of thread lock compound in the threads**
To get better performance out of the impact wrench (Bambii) you need to make sure you have good air fittings and air hose. Plus dont use the ball join adapter it's ok to use extension but the ball join adapter takes a ton of torque away
Any idea on a RWD car? Torque wrench is battery pack and it dosnt provide anywhere near the torque I need. Iv changed rotors plenty on other cars but on my charger they will but loosen. I have a few threads showing on the bolts and it still isn’t easing up. Ended up leaving the rotors and just doing the breaks out of fear of snapping the bolts. After a few spins they SHOULD become easier to take off
A $6 bottle of anti-seize would save you a world of trouble. I know some folks don't like to use it on brake bolts, but then again, look at what you have to deal with without it.
What happens if the bolt breaks? I have a 2001 F250, I'm doing the same thing with the air impact, does nothing. I have 3/4 " ratchet and breaker bars, but I know if the bolt breaks I'm screwed. Montana truck with rust. I will definitely be using anti size on the re-install.
Today I tried to change the rear discs on my Volvo XC60 D3/D4 from 2012. The saddle with EPB motor was rather easy to release (and I used a 12V battery to return the pistons) but then when I tried to unbolt the two 15mm bolts they unbolted in the beginning (but not easy) but after a few normal 'easy' turns they became so heavy to turn over that I thought they we're going to snap. So I decided to stop and put everything together again. Quite frustrating that I only could change the brake pads but not the discs... Has anyone advice about this? Is it normal that these 15mm bolts become very difficult to unbolt at the end??? It seems not logical at all and very strange to me.
I got one brake set on, only to run into a stubborn bolt on the drivers side caliper. 🤬 and I have no power tools. I guess I’ll be running on one set of brakes till I figure this one out.
Found out today that my front driver's side we had to pull down to loosen and front passenger pull up to loosen . I believe that means they both are clockwise actually. Broke two bolts thinking the passenger side would remove the same as the drivers 😢 had to buy a new caliper and install it which was a task too . But done now 🎉
Just twisted 2 bolts off 1 caliper with my big breaker bar… looking for advice as the other calipers bolts are just as stuck… and drilling out the twisted off hardened steel bolts is not easy. I had soaked them all for 24 hours in penetrating oil and it did nothing.
Here’s a couple thoughts. If the head of the bolt started to move even just a little bit, switch to a ratchet, Keep moving it back and forth to work the rust out of the threads. I’ve snapped a lot of bolts that could’ve been avoided if I worked the Bolt back and forth to get the rust particles out. Sometimes I’ll use the breaker bar in the opposite direction to try to break it loose that way and then in the correct direction. Sometimes taking a hammer and tapping on the whole can jar some of the rust loose. Working with rusty nuts and bolts can really be a challenge. If I’m pushing on a Bolt with a large breaker bar there’s a point where I start to get nervous that I might twist the head of the bolt off. That’s when I stop I think I hit it with a hammer I go the other way. A lot of people find that heat helps with a torch. I haven’t found much luck with that personally. If the bolt does start to move it’s extremely important to go back in reverse and then Forward many times. If it feels like it is locking again reverse the direction. I hope some of these ideas are helpful
@@livefree6878 thanks, I was able to get the 2 bolts out by moving back and forth just a bit, lots of penetrating oil and patience, now I need to find a RPL spindle as the twisted off bolts are not going anywhere.
What if you have a Honda and there's hardly any clearance to even get a frickin breaker bar and socket firmly on the bolt and then barely any room to turn it and you already put a cheater extension on it and it still wont come off because the last idiots that worked on it clearly overtightened the damn thing?
I used this method and I broke the bolt, it’s in halfway and no room to work on it, if there is a way to take off the caliper brackets without cutting it
@@bergenmatthew I actually have my truck still in the air for about a week now. I got the two bolts loose on one side using liquid wrench. The other side I just keep applying it to and plan to tackle it again this weekend. Liquid wrench from what I have seen online is one of the best penetrating oils you can find.
Or propane. Placed on the knuckle around the bolt. At least on my car, the knuckles are aluminum, which heats up and expands faster than the steel bolt. Also softens thread locker. Then bolt can be removed.
I can hear that you don't have a thick enough air hose or enough throughput at first on Bambi. What I do is let the air pressure build up by bursting rather than full auto that bad boy
"My Cheater Bar" Snapped a bolt once. Since then, I always go to some nearby shop and pay $30-50 to have them extract targeted bolts; necessary for my project, apply anti seize & reinstall. Then go home and enjoy my time working on my car.
Most people dont have air powered torque wrench or impact gun or 4 ft breaker bars, sorry dont mean to be a dick but I can't get mine off and tried a lot of things I also dont have access to those tools at the moment and I'm just jealous hahah I will be buying a torque wr3nch tho still helpful thanks
Just wanted to say your air compressor is not rated for that air impact I had the same problem got a new compressor that’s rated for it and it worked perfectly
My bolts are rust welded so hard my breaker bar actually stripped the bolts and made it worse. Whoever owned the car before me clearly did not use antiseize!
how do you do the rear? I can't fit in my breaker bar and a cheater bar inside the wheel well, and I can't turn the steering wheel to get a better angle like you do on the front.
Just changed my rotors on 2009 p71 caliber bracket bolts were hard to come off went to Home Depot to get a metal pipe already had a breaker bar . Bolts were no match thanks for the video
My goodness mine are so tight that I decided to just replace the calipers and brackets which luckily come as a package deal with upgraded caliper bolts no more t55 But I spent the morning painting the new calipers only to get this problem again with the brackets However my wheels were straight because 1 I don’t have a ebrake nor a Jack or stands to raise the front and secure it only have a 2ton floor jack and stands . I’ll give it a better shot tomorrow in the rain 90 degrees here today tomorrow rain but I want this done
They are on my Volvo--15 MM, spent over three hours, finally got the two bolts off, using breaker + cheater and jack and BFH. Now the other side same thing. No access. Went and got 36" cheater bar but no place to put for leverage.
@@atillaozturk7075 Volvo OEM bracket bolts come with red locktite preapplied. I finally got one side off, second side was easy initially but now stuck. I ordered some impact stubby sockets because I didn’t want the regular sockets to shatter when using breaker and cheater.
Wow! For us this was a game changer,When the rotor was turned in line with the car, I couldn’t get our breaker bar in to get extra leverage. Soon as I turned the rotor outward I could not only use the breaker bar but a cheater bar. If I can’t just remove the caliper bolts first time I’ve been using this method. Of course this only works in the front because you can’t turn the back wheels. Just curious did you use a cheater bar on your breaker bar. I’m just wondering why this didn’t help you get more leverage. Thanks for your thoughts
All I need is a lift to give me the room to use the 4 foot pipe extension so I can then use my swivel ended impact wrench. Translation: How to loosen a stuck caliper bolt: use a mechanic cuz you ain't got the tools.
Was fighting a caliper bolt today, old timer grabbed a shorter breaker than mine, TIGHTENED THE BOLT A LITTLE FIRST, then broke it with ease. I am humbled everyday
Back and forth breaks the rust up
Awe so cute.... great video. To lose a stubborn bolt at home and have an impact drill. Such a genius
My problem is on the rear, and you won't get a breaker bar in there since you cannot turn the rotor
We're fucked
You just gotta get a open ended wrench and a hammer. That’s the only way. Be prepared to break the wrench.
Or, blow torch the bolts before trying to loosen them. The heat may break them loose.
@@kevinbrigden6276 Had to go to the mechanic with it. Almost melted the caliper bracket using a torch and it still wouldn't come off. Even they used 45 min to get it loose. Oh well don't have that car anymore and thank god for that
@@Sci-Mon1 Yea, no lol. Been at that for the past 4 hrs. What else now besides heat. .
Thanks for the reminder about using a breaker bar. The lower bolt always seems to be the toughest. Probably because it’s closest to the road & picks up more grime. I appreciate your taking the time to make this video.
I've had a battle raging for 3 days. Finally won today. A spark plug socket pounded on for a super tight fit, a box end wrench on the back of it, a 4' metal snipe, finally broke loose. One of the bolts, the only trick that worked was the floor jack (thanks for that tip in the comments here) to put enough pressure on the wrench to get that one moving (works if you're on the right side of the vehicle so you're pushing from ground up. So one hernia operation, a pulled groin, ruptured testicle, and,....done! 2001 GMC 2500 HD.
I use a jack, just position the jack under the breaker bar and lift, works beautifully.
This tip save me A LOT of money !!! Thank you Jay !!!
I’m about to do it 😖
Thank you thank you thank you!!! Just tried this after trying everything on a caliber bolt and it worked perfectly
YOU HELPED ME BRO THANK YOU
Wow great idea 💡
Thank you for the tip! I had two bolts that wouldn't budge. Used penetrating oil, heat and a breaker bar with a hammer. What I really needed was just more leverage. Then bolts moved easily once I added about three feet to my breaker bar with the cheater.
I broke 9 out of 10 of caliper bolts
Same experience w my 2015 GMC Sierra. Fortunately there was room for a breaker bar and pounded it with a big lead hammer. A second person is necessary to pre-load the bar flex so it doesn't bounce and to hold the 6 point impact socket straight.
**There was lots of thread lock compound in the threads**
To get better performance out of the impact wrench (Bambii) you need to make sure you have good air fittings and air hose. Plus dont use the ball join adapter it's ok to use extension but the ball join adapter takes a ton of torque away
Thank you very much. After one day on a frozen bolt, on Ground Hog Movie day. Your video fixed helped me it in a short time. Thank you so much!!
Yep a massive breaker bar does the job every time 💪👌
I find that I snap the heads off the bolts sometimes with this method. I do hate stuck bolts.
Any idea on a RWD car? Torque wrench is battery pack and it dosnt provide anywhere near the torque I need. Iv changed rotors plenty on other cars but on my charger they will but loosen. I have a few threads showing on the bolts and it still isn’t easing up. Ended up leaving the rotors and just doing the breaks out of fear of snapping the bolts. After a few spins they SHOULD become easier to take off
A $6 bottle of anti-seize would save you a world of trouble. I know some folks don't like to use it on brake bolts, but then again, look at what you have to deal with without it.
How
@@TheBeeHive2700 Just put a little anti-seize on the threads before you torque it down.
I've used a gallon of anti-seize, working on it for 16 hours and counting. I think the last genius used non-removable lock-tite.
What happens if the bolt breaks? I have a 2001 F250, I'm doing the same thing with the air impact, does nothing. I have 3/4 " ratchet and breaker bars, but I know if the bolt breaks I'm screwed. Montana truck with rust. I will definitely be using anti size on the re-install.
If we want to change also rotor, can we use wd40 for open the bolt?
How do you remove a seized bottom caliper bolt on a rear caliper? There's not really any clearance since I obviously can't turn the rotor to an angle.
Great im sure this will work perfect for my rears
Lol look at all that clearance he has
Yeah good luck with that
On to a video on how to remove a broken bolt from the caliper.
I need some help please the caliper bolts on my 2001 Ford ranger have some how striped them selfs out of the caliper how can I replace it
Thank you , I used the same method for the stubbier caliper
yeah with a front you can turn the wheels to get at it with a long bar, not with a rear caliper!
Torchhhhhh! biggest wrench you can fit in there and a mallet to bang on the wrench
Today I tried to change the rear discs on my Volvo XC60 D3/D4 from 2012. The saddle with EPB motor was rather easy to release (and I used a 12V battery to return the pistons) but then when I tried to unbolt the two 15mm bolts they unbolted in the beginning (but not easy) but after a few normal 'easy' turns they became so heavy to turn over that I thought they we're going to snap. So I decided to stop and put everything together again. Quite frustrating that I only could change the brake pads but not the discs... Has anyone advice about this? Is it normal that these 15mm bolts become very difficult to unbolt at the end??? It seems not logical at all and very strange to me.
Best video I've seen so far. It works!!!!!!
👍👍
Thank you bro, another great video. I really appreciate and God bless. Mike
First video I clicked for my bolt and 30 secs later it’s off 🤣😭😭😭 thank you!!!!
Yeah well I had had air and impact. No help. But to the guy with the jack comment. U da man.
Every pro mechanic video I watch their air tools have names. One other I remember was Thor.
Spray a little freeall on the bolt and wait a couple minutes. That will help a lot.
I got one brake set on, only to run into a stubborn bolt on the drivers side caliper. 🤬 and I have no power tools. I guess I’ll be running on one set of brakes till I figure this one out.
I was able to change the pads and rotor on pax side, but have a rounded bolt trapping my driver side rotor
Great to know, good vid and keep putting up more for all whom have this mechanic problems
👍
you don't lose a little bit of torque with the swivel, it usually ranges from 35% to 50%
Found out today that my front driver's side we had to pull down to loosen and front passenger pull up to loosen . I believe that means they both are clockwise actually. Broke two bolts thinking the passenger side would remove the same as the drivers 😢 had to buy a new caliper and install it which was a task too . But done now 🎉
link to the 1000 lb torque one pls? :)
ok... and what do you do if you dont have a shop with a torque wrench or a breaker bar..? lol
call your mechanic xd
Yea dude if i had all that i wont be on youtube looking for shit
I have a Milwaukee 1/2 Fuel 1400 ft lb breakaway impact wrench. Doesn’t do anything if you can’t fit it inside the fender space.
Buy one 🤷🏼♂️
@David DDM I totally agree with that LOL it's expensive but at the same time it's a good investment
hey what size is you use.?
what about when it keeps shredding the socket? I went through like 4 of em now.
YOU’RE THE BEST THANK YOU
👍👍
Can you use anti seize on the caliper bolts?
Yes. It makes your torque results more accurate.
Just twisted 2 bolts off 1 caliper with my big breaker bar… looking for advice as the other calipers bolts are just as stuck… and drilling out the twisted off hardened steel bolts is not easy. I had soaked them all for 24 hours in penetrating oil and it did nothing.
Here’s a couple thoughts. If the head of the bolt started to move even just a little bit, switch to a ratchet, Keep moving it back and forth to work the rust out of the threads. I’ve snapped a lot of bolts that could’ve been avoided if I worked the Bolt back and forth to get the rust particles out. Sometimes I’ll use the breaker bar in the opposite direction to try to break it loose that way and then in the correct direction. Sometimes taking a hammer and tapping on the whole can jar some of the rust loose. Working with rusty nuts and bolts can really be a challenge. If I’m pushing on a Bolt with a large breaker bar there’s a point where I start to get nervous that I might twist the head of the bolt off. That’s when I stop I think I hit it with a hammer I go the other way. A lot of people find that heat helps with a torch. I haven’t found much luck with that personally. If the bolt does start to move it’s extremely important to go back in reverse and then Forward many times. If it feels like it is locking again reverse the direction. I hope some of these ideas are helpful
@@livefree6878 thanks, I was able to get the 2 bolts out by moving back and forth just a bit, lots of penetrating oil and patience, now I need to find a RPL spindle as the twisted off bolts are not going anywhere.
@@livefree6878 great 👍 info thank you
Lol taking that Bambi back tomorrow ahaha...
Can't get breaker bar near rear caliper.
You could put some pb blaster X 2 and let it sit for awhile in
b/t spray shots... then it should loosen
Man I just literally tried to take mine off and my adapter from the wrench to the 13mm socket literally broke off 😂😂😂
What's the process when the bolt head has become rusted then become rounded off when applying the breaker bar?
Find a socket that barely fits, be it metric or whatever so it is snug and then hammer the socket on to the head all the way then attach bar
And if the bolt head is stripped?
What size socket???
What if it’s loose but not coming off been turning for an hour
Used cheater bar, stripped the bolt. Welded the socket on, broke my breaker bar. Used an impact, started on fire.
My bolt is satan.
Yeah, some a-hole probably put thread locker on it.
What if you have a Honda and there's hardly any clearance to even get a frickin breaker bar and socket firmly on the bolt and then barely any room to turn it and you already put a cheater extension on it and it still wont come off because the last idiots that worked on it clearly overtightened the damn thing?
Can you use a torque wrench for stubborn caliper bolts?
Whats the specks on the bolt
I love the video and the blackboard in the background is great. Where do I buy a cheater bar? Plumbing supplies?
Home depot, lowes, menards... anywhere that sells pipe.
Great job
I used this method and I broke the bolt, it’s in halfway and no room to work on it, if there is a way to take off the caliper brackets without cutting it
I didn't break mine yet but I am afraid I am going to which is why I didn't try his method!
Let me know if you find something
@@bergenmatthew I actually have my truck still in the air for about a week now. I got the two bolts loose on one side using liquid wrench. The other side I just keep applying it to and plan to tackle it again this weekend. Liquid wrench from what I have seen online is one of the best penetrating oils you can find.
My problem is I have no money for a impact wrench and no air compressor so if you can loan me that, I'd be great.
This video literally saved me thanks a million 💯💯💯💪🏾
I love how u explained the foot lbs when using the breaker and extension for people that are less expirienc
use map gas and a breaker bar
Donald Trump nigga the fuck?
Or propane. Placed on the knuckle around the bolt. At least on my car, the knuckles are aluminum, which heats up and expands faster than the steel bolt. Also softens thread locker. Then bolt can be removed.
What is map gas ?
@@jasonburton5092 is butane like propane?
It didn't work. Gotta love the rustbelt
I can hear that you don't have a thick enough air hose or enough throughput at first on Bambi. What I do is let the air pressure build up by bursting rather than full auto that bad boy
Useless on my tiny car where I can't fit a bar in.
I don’t have power tools :). Also breaker bar doesn’t fit in the rear 😔
What if you have shattered 5, 1/2 inch drive sockets with a 5 foot cheater bar and still haven't broke loose 👀
Use a car jack beneath it or above it if you have to
"My Cheater Bar" Snapped a bolt once. Since then, I always go to some nearby shop and pay $30-50 to have them extract targeted bolts; necessary for my project, apply anti seize & reinstall. Then go home and enjoy my time working on my car.
That actually is a great idea.
Great info, are the shops using different techniques?
@@acemoto2319 Acetylene, impacts hammer & cans of Freeze Off.
@@scottfree2929 ok thank you 👍
Sometimes they use really strong loctite from the factory
I don't have a fucking air powered torque wrench, I just want to change pads ffs
Most people dont have air powered torque wrench or impact gun or 4 ft breaker bars, sorry dont mean to be a dick but I can't get mine off and tried a lot of things I also dont have access to those tools at the moment and I'm just jealous hahah I will be buying a torque wr3nch tho still helpful thanks
Just wanted to say your air compressor is not rated for that air impact I had the same problem got a new compressor that’s rated for it and it worked perfectly
Breaker bar also snaps the bolt in half some times. :D And that sucks!
How do you get it out if that happens? I've tried drilling through it and using a bolt extractor with no luck
@@baldycunt3268 Using just very small drill head and drill many holes in it and eventually it will just break apart. Sorry for bad English!
You lose torque when you add any extension to an air gun, especially that wobble adapter
Bambi is a impact not a Torque wrench
I was having a hard time taking mine off I broke 3 sockets
I broke a ratchet trying that it wouldn't even come of with a 1/2 inch impact
Craftsman ratchet and dewalt impact
The more extensions the less torque. It's science Einstein
Every time until they span off...more rust, Scotty more rust...
My bolts are rust welded so hard my breaker bar actually stripped the bolts and made it worse. Whoever owned the car before me clearly did not use antiseize!
Of course they didn't use anti-seize, that would be moronic.
You are supposed to put thread-locker on caliper bolts...
I used a breaker bar and it broke the bolt right in half
Bambi sounds like he needs more air pressure.
Alr just let me go buy a torque wrench and air compressor...
Ikr
how do you do the rear? I can't fit in my breaker bar and a cheater bar inside the wheel well, and I can't turn the steering wheel to get a better angle like you do on the front.
I wish I had an answer for the rear, this trick works so good on the front.
Just changed my rotors on 2009 p71 caliber bracket bolts were hard to come off went to Home Depot to get a metal pipe already had a breaker bar . Bolts were no match thanks for the video
Bambi failed you 😂
Jack stand trick: ruclips.net/user/shortsz0Hja5a7hIk?si=W-sZh_YJFWu0ehk9
My goodness mine are so tight that I decided to just replace the calipers and brackets which luckily come as a package deal with upgraded caliper bolts no more t55
But I spent the morning painting the new calipers only to get this problem again with the brackets
However my wheels were straight because 1 I don’t have a ebrake nor a Jack or stands to raise the front and secure it only have a 2ton floor jack and stands .
I’ll give it a better shot tomorrow in the rain 90 degrees here today tomorrow rain but I want this done
That's the difference between hero's and hoggies.
Obviously that will work 😂
Very helpful
Skinned two of my knuckles trying to get mine off
That’s always hard to hear, hope the ranch didn’t slip off. Hope the job went well though👍👍
I did the same thing
ok but my breaker bar broke tryna do this :( I need help or my dad will be mad
I stripped my bolt
dude
were you working on a truck??
car caliper bolts should not be that tight
They are on my Volvo--15 MM, spent over three hours, finally got the two bolts off, using breaker + cheater and jack and BFH. Now the other side same thing. No access. Went and got 36" cheater bar but no place to put for leverage.
@@chien-shengtsai8626
Previous person must've used red loctite
@@atillaozturk7075 Volvo OEM bracket bolts come with red locktite preapplied. I finally got one side off, second side was easy initially but now stuck. I ordered some impact stubby sockets because I didn’t want the regular sockets to shatter when using breaker and cheater.
My bolt broke
A torque wrench works just step on it and put all your body weight
Like x 1000. Ty
If it get everything off why isnt it named mia khalifa...
I just breake those bolts🙁
Wow thanks this was pointless
Did nothing for me
Wow! For us this was a game changer,When the rotor was turned in line with the car, I couldn’t get our breaker bar in to get extra leverage. Soon as I turned the rotor outward I could not only use the breaker bar but a cheater bar. If I can’t just remove the caliper bolts first time I’ve been using this method. Of course this only works in the front because you can’t turn the back wheels. Just curious did you use a cheater bar on your breaker bar. I’m just wondering why this didn’t help you get more leverage. Thanks for your thoughts
All I need is a lift to give me the room to use the 4 foot pipe extension so I can then use my swivel ended impact wrench. Translation: How to loosen a stuck caliper bolt: use a mechanic cuz you ain't got the tools.
My lower bolt is stripping 😩
You could try a small pipe wrench with a cheater bar 🤷
What did you end up doing ? I was thinking buy a whole new caliper with bracket because my is super fucking frozen and rounded .
Bambis barely got torque
👍🇵🇰