I've looked at 30+ videos on this topic and no one says Zinc or copper is effective for 5-6 inches. 5-6 Feet is more accurate. So if you are in really challenging climate like Pacific Northwest, obviously multiple strips on longer roof runs would be needed. Also many people seem to think zinc "coated" strips are same as 99.5% pure zinc strips used by most effectively treated roofs. Don't mean to be rude, but the advice here seems to be aimed to support the presenters business interest and is NOT an accurate representation of effectiveness of zinc/copper strips shown in actual research and experiences of many other roofing professionals. Do yourself favor and look over other presenters on this topic.
Agreed. There is a clear conflict of interest on Patrick's part. I live in the PNW. I've used Z-stop (as a preventative) and have had good luck with it AS LONG AS it is properly installed. That is to say: No nails, you can use a Henry-brand roof adhesive (in caulking tube) to apply a bead of adhesive that holds the z-stop very effectively under the upper-most course of roofing shingles. Even areas with a lot of tree/shade coverage and north facing elevations can be benefited by this addition. This should only be used as a PREVENTATIVE approach though. Not a curative approach. That is, if you have an existing moss overgrowth, you need to attend to that first before adding anything like Z-stop or copper. I heard that copper strips are less effective in the PNW as they are on the East coast. I'm told this is due to the amount of pollution in the air that encourages the copper to oxidize more fully on the East coast. Patrick's ridiculous fear mongering is just plain silly but he's right that a roof in any environment does require regular monitoring and upkeep regardless of moss-abatement choice.
Dont know if you guys cares but if you guys are stoned like me atm then you can watch all the new movies on Instaflixxer. Have been binge watching with my brother these days =)
This is bullsh*t As someone who has 40 years of experience on Oregon roofs, Zinc strips work. Echoing what mhil posted below, I've found them to be effective for 5-6 feet in challenging Pacific Northwest conditions. Special roofing nails that have a rubber washer near the head, like those included in the Z Stop zinc strip package, help to seal and hold down the zinc strip.
Lead also works perhaps to a lesser degree: glad I read below I can GLUE the zinc strips down (use 100% pure zinc if poss since zinc plated will not last as long).
Exactly. Wouldn't old faithful Black Jack...or some new permanent product secure zinc or copper strips?? Nails? Never. Especially not if a retrofit. But adhesive/glue of some sort??
Anyone who offers a service to solve a problem will always try to discredit any and all other solutions that don't make them money, just the way it is. It's business.
Most roofers advise not to use any strips for obvious reasons ($$$$) and often tell you 2015 and later shingles have zinc “built into the product “.However as a gardener with 40 years experience I can say that there is a clear difference between years of moss buildup and algae.Moss that has not been removed for years ( we had encounters with moss turned into 3” of soil plus 2 seasons worth of leafs and conifer cones)is just not something zinc or most homeowners will handle let alone the idea that moss has a tendency to lift the shingles to accumulate more dust and debris to facilitate its “health “. Algae on the other hand can be handled by zinc strips simply because zinc is more often than not used as a preventative and not as a removal of a eyesore. My bottom line is … don’t buy a tree house!😂
Ah...I see; I'm to ignore the obvious signs of the effectiveness of even just galvanized flashing to deter the build up of moss and molds on roofs in my neighborhood and believe this person. Dang, I just don't think so. The next post down advocated pure zinc strips and I'd back that assessment but the gent posting this viewpoint? Nope. Not so much at all.
Researchers need to get out of the lab and into the real Oregon rain. I happen to agree with Patrick. I have used the Zinc strips in the past on my home. They were a waist of good money. I do not like climbing on the roof to fix the Zinc strips that have come loose. They worked for the first 12" but the moss grew just fine beyond that.
Do you have zinc strips on your roof? What has been your experience with them? We choose not to use bleach or detergents because they are toxic to humans/animals/the environment.
So far all what Patrick says pretty much is applicable to the PNW. But what if the roof is in the Southern States, and Southwest areas like New Mexico, Arizona, and Texas? Does this one all talk apply to the mentioned states?
He appears to be offering an alternative, supposedly more effective treatment, but never says what it is. This may be good to drum up inquiries in Oregon, but pretty useless people dealing with moss issues in the rest of the continent.
Rainwater will never cause zinc strips to oxidize water would have to be under pressure and about 6 to 700 degrees Celsius to cause oxidation of zinc metal water won't do a damn thing to say I don't know where you get this information but it's completely wrong it's funny my next door neighbor just to the left of me had Moss growing really badly on their roof and I told them to put a strip of zinc at the peak just below the Ridge vent which they did and lo and behold there's not a speck of Moss on their roof who the thought it
I've looked at 30+ videos on this topic and no one says Zinc or copper is effective for 5-6 inches. 5-6 Feet is more accurate. So if you are in really challenging climate like Pacific Northwest, obviously multiple strips on longer roof runs would be needed. Also many people seem to think zinc "coated" strips are same as 99.5% pure zinc strips used by most effectively treated roofs. Don't mean to be rude, but the advice here seems to be aimed to support the presenters business interest and is NOT an accurate representation of effectiveness of zinc/copper strips shown in actual research and experiences of many other roofing professionals. Do yourself favor and look over other presenters on this topic.
Agreed. There is a clear conflict of interest on Patrick's part.
I live in the PNW. I've used Z-stop (as a preventative) and have had good luck with it AS LONG AS it is properly installed. That is to say: No nails, you can use a Henry-brand roof adhesive (in caulking tube) to apply a bead of adhesive that holds the z-stop very effectively under the upper-most course of roofing shingles. Even areas with a lot of tree/shade coverage and north facing elevations can be benefited by this addition.
This should only be used as a PREVENTATIVE approach though. Not a curative approach.
That is, if you have an existing moss overgrowth, you need to attend to that first before adding anything like Z-stop or copper.
I heard that copper strips are less effective in the PNW as they are on the East coast. I'm told this is due to the amount of pollution in the air that encourages the copper to oxidize more fully on the East coast.
Patrick's ridiculous fear mongering is just plain silly but he's right that a roof in any environment does require regular monitoring and upkeep regardless of moss-abatement choice.
Dont know if you guys cares but if you guys are stoned like me atm then you can watch all the new movies on Instaflixxer. Have been binge watching with my brother these days =)
@Scott Andy Definitely, been using InstaFlixxer for years myself =)
This is bullsh*t As someone who has 40 years of experience on Oregon roofs, Zinc strips work. Echoing what mhil posted below, I've found them to be effective for 5-6 feet in challenging Pacific Northwest conditions. Special roofing nails that have a rubber washer near the head, like those included in the Z Stop zinc strip package, help to seal and hold down the zinc strip.
Lead also works perhaps to a lesser degree: glad I read below I can GLUE the zinc strips down (use 100% pure zinc if poss since zinc plated will not last as long).
Exactly. Wouldn't old faithful Black Jack...or some new permanent product secure zinc or copper strips??
Nails? Never. Especially not if a retrofit.
But adhesive/glue of some sort??
Well Patrick what do you use on a boat that is in the water 24/7 to keep down the problem. ZINC and it works.
Wrong on several counts.
Nailing?? Use adhesive, construction grade, and tuck under shingles. Leaving 3" exposed.
Something like liquid nails? Any specific suggestions? I really didn't want to start putting more nails in my roof. Thanks
I have a galvanized pipe (small amount of zinc) on my roof which was covered with moss. No moss for 6 feet under the galvanized pipe., hmmmmm?
Makes a liar of him...real fast.
Anyone who offers a service to solve a problem will always try to discredit any and all other solutions that don't make them money, just the way it is. It's business.
Roof manufacturers.recommend not to use a pressure washer on the roof.
NEVER EVER EVER on asphalt shingles.
Most roofers advise not to use any strips for obvious reasons ($$$$) and often tell you 2015 and later shingles have zinc “built into the product “.However as a gardener with 40 years experience I can say that there is a clear difference between years of moss buildup and algae.Moss that has not been removed for years ( we had encounters with moss turned into 3” of soil plus 2 seasons worth of leafs and conifer cones)is just not something zinc or most homeowners will handle let alone the idea that moss has a tendency to lift the shingles to accumulate more dust and debris to facilitate its “health “. Algae on the other hand can be handled by zinc strips simply because zinc is more often than not used as a preventative and not as a removal of a eyesore. My bottom line is … don’t buy a tree house!😂
What is the name of the product? I don't live in Oregon.
Zinc does work and it is not expensive. I been in the business for 30 years.
Ah...I see; I'm to ignore the obvious signs of the effectiveness of even just galvanized flashing to deter the build up of moss and molds on roofs in my neighborhood and believe this person. Dang, I just don't think so. The next post down advocated pure zinc strips and I'd back that assessment but the gent posting this viewpoint? Nope. Not so much at all.
Researchers need to get out of the lab and into the real Oregon rain. I happen to agree with Patrick. I have used the Zinc strips in the past on my home. They were a waist of good money. I do not like climbing on the roof to fix the Zinc strips that have come loose. They worked for the first 12" but the moss grew just fine beyond that.
thanks. this is totally convincing to me. Ill stick with my bleech and broom Ive been doing for 20 years.
Do you have zinc strips on your roof? What has been your experience with them? We choose not to use bleach or detergents because they are toxic to humans/animals/the environment.
No I dont . I use bleach , light spray and a brush. it evaporates.
Zinc doesn’t tear easily strip is thick. Cost $33. Jeez
So far all what Patrick says pretty much is applicable to the PNW. But what if the roof is in the Southern States, and Southwest areas like New Mexico, Arizona, and Texas? Does this one all talk apply to the mentioned states?
Thank you!
He appears to be offering an alternative, supposedly more effective treatment, but never says what it is. This may be good to drum up inquiries in Oregon, but pretty useless people dealing with moss issues in the rest of the continent.
This guy lol
Thanks for saving me a bunch of wasted money! I knew it was too good to be true.
Rainwater will never cause zinc strips to oxidize water would have to be under pressure and about 6 to 700 degrees Celsius to cause oxidation of zinc metal water won't do a damn thing to say I don't know where you get this information but it's completely wrong
it's funny my next door neighbor just to the left of me had Moss growing really badly on their roof and I told them to put a strip of zinc at the peak just below the Ridge vent which they did and lo and behold there's not a speck of Moss on their roof who the thought it