Thanks for the demonstration. I replied over on my channel but the gist is: if you heat the pad by transferring heat through the wire, you're over-heating the wire. The correct technique is to apply heat directly to both the pad and the wire so that they heat evenly, and finish the joint as quickly as possible. Over-heating the PCB is bad, sure, but using your technique, I think most beginners will end up with a cold joint because they don't understand that the PCB needs to get hot enough to take the solder. The way I teach it (to heat the pad primarily) is intended to solve that problem. Bear in mind, when I demonstrated soldering a wire to the pad, I showed putting the iron on top of the wire exactly like you do. I only touched the pad when tinning. Only when soldering a really big wire or a large ground pad would I feel it necessary to directly touch the pad. When tinning, I do touch the pad, but I'm in and out very fast and don't overheat it. Bottom line: if what you do produces joints that are mechanically and electrically sound, then I don't care. But don't act like there is only one right way to accomplish that goal :-)
And how you gonna do that from a troll channel with ZERO videos...Stop watching porn while smoking weed in mommies basement... MAYBE your eyes will focus for normal videos.
@@borgonianevolution I even looked at the uploaded date. Because the vid looks like it was recorded 10 years ago. The content is good. But the picture quality is noticably bad. And this is not a personal attack. So, don't take it personnally.
@@SekRanger Well if thats all you can find wrong with it and have nothing more to complain about than I did my job. Same could be said watching your poorly lit fish tank videos. Seems like people in this row of comments are just here to feel butt hurt for Joshua.
@@borgonianevolution Poorly lit? You have no idea what you are talking about. There's corals in there. With too many light, they will be burnt to dead. Dude, you are old enough to be a reasonable person. Grow up. Anyway, are you really this defensive just because someone point out the picture quality of your vid? It's like picture quality define your whole identity that you have to defend it even with your ill logic. Oh! I just figured out. You have to use Joshua's name in the video to gain some attentions. Anyway, I dont know who Joshua is. But you've got my attention. So, It's a win for you. clap clap.
Nope. Just bothered by useless trolls with no content regarding the topic coming here to insult me for trying to help new (mainly younger people) not buy into the bad information people put out. The kids that were coming to Flight Test asking for help because they followed the popular drone channels advice and destroyed their gear. The ones that when asked why they were destroying their stuff following those videos that never responded nor tried to help those young people. The ones that are only here to feel butt hurt for Bardwell and contribute NOTHING to the conversation about the topic like you mate.
@@user-es1yl8wg8f Yes .. Thank you.. You just prove my point you are just another no value human PoS that means nothing to anyone. But keep posting. It only helps the algorithm.
@@borgonianevolution Hahah you just proved my point how can somebody be this offended by such an unserious comment on a 3 yr old video 🤣. Grown man insulting a 16 year old because he hurt his feelings in a youtube comment. Thats wild
what temperature does 3 and 5 correlate to? I am using a digital iron and not really sure what temp it should be at. Other vids I've watched said it should be between 350-450c. Also are u using rosin core solder? U mentioned that flux was for plumbers, is flux not necessary? Im new to the hobby, just don't wanna fuck up my stuff when I get it
I have no idea what this particular irons temperature is at that range of numbers on the dial. What I do when starting with a new iron (MUST BE fast recovery) is to bring up the temperature a little at a time until the solder melts enough to tin a fresh tip. Then I mark that as my minimum. I use that as my warming temp as well as an idle temp if I have the iron on but will be longer times between actual soldering. Like stripping motor wires and routing them in their final place before connecting them to an FC. When it comes time to actually solder I will raise the temp just a tiny bit for small pads or wire to wire connections. If larger pads and heavier wires like main battery leads I practice on junk Fc's or ESC's and find the range that works before trying on my actual job I am doing. The reason I dont state temps is every Iron is different and calibration / quality of them can vary a lot. do the same with your iron and you will soon find what works best with your iron. Again a fast recovery iron is what makes the difference how long the iron needs to sit on the piece and how much it heat soaks it over time. THAT is what kills electronics. As for the solder it is standard Kester 60/40 rosin core thin solder on a 1lb roll that is so old the labels are worn off beyond readability.
@@MooseArc002 See that's where you are completely wrong you dumb ass troll.. I dont have a personality at all.. Now fuck off before I fart in your general direction
@@borgonianevolution I thought that was a legitimate question because my iron only has temp settings by Farenheit or Celsius. I don't have a 1-8 or 1-10 like yours so I can't really follow along with this tutorial. I didn't need a tutorial but wanted to give it a try cus I wanted to test it out but oh well. Sure you might argue that I should be able to make an educated guess as to what temp that would be but that isn't helpful for the beginner.
I have no idea how I ended up watching this video. I guess it was the algorithm recommending similar troll accounts. Anyway, I had a good time reading your replies in the comments. It seems like you did an OK job with the soldering, though it's hard to confirm due to the poor video quality. However, your trolling skills are impeccable. Keep it up, Joshy!
The old electrician who taught me how to solder when I was a kid told me that if you heat up electronic components to the level that you cannot touch them you risk damaging them. So, this is an awesome video that teaches it the right wayI will share this on the thrust vectoring FB group😁👍
I had all this on my other channel but it fell to a hack so I no longer have access. I just get tired of watching "the pro's" perpetuate bad habits and seeing all the victims come to us on the forums asking how to recover because the pro's take no responsibility for what they put out. I said the same thing on Flite Tests how to solder video on their sub channel. Asked Mr. Steele to stop teaching it like that years ago and his response was it works for me and basically had that whole fuck everyone else if they cant do it attitude.
@@borgonianevolution totally agree. Did your other account get hacked around the time you raised your objection on this issue?? Yeah, forgot to mention, the title is priceless😁
@@monophanvalleon6865 No it was when I had internet issues and had to do everything on a Walmart phone for a while. It never updated and got exploited took out my email and changed a lot of my gaming passwords n such. Took close to a year to recover and I still never got it all back. Luckily they didn't get any financial stuff.
In reflow soldering, where the whole board is heated in an oven to flow solder paste holding components to the board, the guideline is that components should stay under an absolute maximum of 260 degrees Celsius to avoid internal damage. The oven temperature is typically about 220 C to 240 C, with the solder paste's liquidus temperature being about 217 C. If one's solder technique was causing components to go over 260 C then I would agree the technique should be changed to avoid this. But even 217 C is well above where a person would feel pain, so I would say just because it hurts doesn't mean it's being damaged.
Its all about the thermal mass of the iron tip. You need to use the correct tip size for the job at hand. If you want to solder big gauge wires to big pads you need a large enough tip so it will not dissipate all the heat to the wire/pad before you finished and got a good soldered joint. If your tip is too small it will keep heating the wire/pcb but will not have enough thermal mass to quickly transfer the heat to where it is needed and you end up heating the wire/pcb/component instead of soldering it.
To a point yes. but if the iron cannot keep up with replacing the heat lost the tip size will only make it worse. That is why you use the bigger ball of solder on a tinned tip to have that mass there. I did this video to to show new people you can solder fine electronics without cranking up the heat and peeling pads like all these uneducated knuckleheads preach in ALL of these build videos. I spent MANY a year building electronics and doing rework on PCBs for several major companies. Take the advice or don't. My stuff always works and I have never killed a flight controller building my stuff.
@@borgonianevolution Of course - if the iron is underpowered than all of those tips doesn't matter. Maybe you should opened with - get a proper soldering iron 😂. Bottom line is - don't mess around with it, a joint should be done as quickly as possible, if you have the right tools (iron, tip and soldering wire) its a quick job and the quicker you are the less equipment you will ruin.
Basically, I disagree with much of what you believe. I have been soldering for over 50 years; both in my profession and for personal use. I have also soldered both electronics and copper plumbing (same principles apply to both, except you will never get a good copper pipe joint using your methods). That said, I am not going to pick apart your technics. You have your concepts and I have mine.
Thank you for your comment. Sorry you failed to comprehend parts of it where I SPECIFICALLY point out this is NOT meant for plumbers. You do you mate if you have a method that works for you rock on. this was meant to show new people in the RC hobby how to NOT damage components after watching several ham-fisted people insisting they need to WELD components rather than solder them.
@@borgonianevolution I agree that there are a lot of BAD soldering videos. I only mentioned plumbing because the process is the same: A heating tool (iron or torch) is used to heat the material, when the material is hot the solder is applied to the material and it will flow and bond. I always "tin" all wires and pads first which is very effective and makes the process go smoother. Burning something is a result of spending too much time on the pad regardless of iron temperature, but then you probably knew that. Yes, I will do me and you do you.
If you redo this at some point, please zoom in closer to the actual board. There is no need to have 75% of the screen showing your workbench background.
Won't be doin this over.. too many people feelin butt hurt for Bardwell and other complaints not related to the topic. Just a word about the zoom... Its not easy to solder tiny things with the camera basically attached to your nose. Maybe you make one and show us all how its done?
Here, I was hoping 'Bardwell' was one of your kids 😂 These are good tips though, I'm absolutely shit at soldering. Probably because I use a cheap Weller like you refer to!
This is basically the way ive been soldering for years... Flux on the wire only really helps wick in the solder quickly. I generally dont put flux on the board cause it makes a mess. It the solder melts to it its not a cold joint! I really smush thw 12g wires though cause i usually use a super fine tip and am too lazy to change it.
I need help! 😢 flew my first bnf, battery got too low and fell out the sky onto a road and got ran over. Now need to replace all 4 motors. All the tips are appreciated. It's sometimes intimidating trying to watch videos from big RUclipsrs and trying to follow along. And they never answer!
Not much I can help with if you give zero information about the aircraft other then "smooshed like grape in middle of the road".. I suggest maybe post pictures and ask questions on the Flite Test Forums so people in the hobby can see what you have to work with AND be able to ask questions about your specific gear.
Oh you're a real brain child aren't you. There is a difference between cheap ( radio shack set wattage irons ) vs economical ( the one in the video) that not only is temperature controlled but a fast recovery iron. Maybe try saving your level of stupid for Tik Tok and titty bars where "snarky" is cute and leave the real information for here.
@@jortega61924 What are you like 16? go away or I will taunt you a second time! Like I said save your comments for Tik Tok and titty bars where you have at least half a chance to impress some one. Any more childish comments I will block you and put you in time out.
Honestly, I think beginners' ruining boards are the result of poor-quality solder, not the "heat the pad queue." I bought the El Cheapo Amazon solder, and it won't melt or flow properly even at 900 degrees. Simply flowing an xt60 joint (only touching the solder) is enough to heat the entire board to finger-burning temperature. You will transfer the same amount of heat to the board whether you touch the pad or not simply because there is liquid metal (an excellent conductor) bridging the gap between the pad and iron. What causes board overheating is how hot the iron is and how long you spend. With good solder that melts at low temperatures and flows quickly, little time and heat are needed.
Probably because you are using that lead free shit solder. 60/40 rosin core is all you will ever need. No flux pens none of that other crap these knuckleheads preach. I worked for Harris RF Communications building Military radios in the 90's. Their strict standards for soldering both in finished product as well as process is top notch. 95% of peoples problems when soldering is they are NOT using a FAST RECOVERY Iron NOTHING to do with the solder used.
@borgonianevolution the brand is mayium and should be one of the first things that pops up on Amazon. I'm going to buy a roll of Kester for my next build.
Where in this video do you see carbon on any thing? That tip is properly tinned and clean. If you are talking about the minerals on the iron from wiping it clean on the sponge that is normal. It is obvious you are on a troll account and have ZERO clue what you speak of. Go make some videos that help people THEN come back with something to base the stupid that just fell out of your keyboard off of. MAYBE some one might take you serious.
Level 3 electronics tech here, You are absolutely incorrect on this. You want to heat the pad and let wire flow into the solder. You are bonding the wire to the pad. Not the other way around, every place I have worked at doing microsoldering relies on heating the pad not the component. If you tried this with anything other than wires you would be fired for frying microprocessors, caps, resistors, etc... Also you are incorrect on saying you don't need flux. Flux is one of the most important components in getting strong clean welds.
@@borgonianevolution I do micro soldering and your technique would not work for micro soldering on a production scale level. I get you want to stick to how you were taught how ever many years ago by whoever was qualified at that time, but this is a new day and age in electronics. I have worked for big name tech industries and never once was I taught how you do things.
@@VinM817 Did you read the context of the video? this is more geared towards the RC hobby where new builders are frying their electronics after following the "pro pilots" build videos where they are told to crank their irons up super high and they are decimating their flight controllers and electronic speed controllers. Good for you for being in the industry though.
And your professional experience in the electronics industry you base this vague reply on is? Or did you just learn how to build dronez from Mr. Steele videos?
@@borgonianevolution Dude, I thought your video was interesting but your behavior is pathetic. Let people disagree with you without without then going after them, god damn dude...
@@borgonianevolution Just common sense, everyone disagrees with you because... You're wrong. You're also being wrong in a very cocky way which makes it more embarrassing. I'll put my reply here since you keep deleting it out of pure humiliation - You can put on overalls and call yourself a mechanic.. doesn't mean you're good at it or have any idea what you're doing.. There's a reason the entire comment section is laughing at you. Maybe just stick to guitars and dying your beard?
@@OnelastgoTV I will ask you the same question. YOUR experience in the electronics industry would be what? Oh wait you have none... your just a wanna be gamer who twitch streams.. So in the immortal words of Edie Murphy: "Have a coke and a smile and STFU" Come back after you move out of mommies basement and get some life experience mate.
@@borgonianevolution You can put on overalls and call yourself an engineer, doesn't mean you have any idea what you're doing or that you're any good. There's a reason the whole comment section is disagreeing and laughing at you. - Irony of talking about mommies basement while you're some 40 year old fat dude still in a goth phase with a pink beard. Can't make this shit up.
Thanks for the demonstration. I replied over on my channel but the gist is: if you heat the pad by transferring heat through the wire, you're over-heating the wire. The correct technique is to apply heat directly to both the pad and the wire so that they heat evenly, and finish the joint as quickly as possible. Over-heating the PCB is bad, sure, but using your technique, I think most beginners will end up with a cold joint because they don't understand that the PCB needs to get hot enough to take the solder. The way I teach it (to heat the pad primarily) is intended to solve that problem.
Bear in mind, when I demonstrated soldering a wire to the pad, I showed putting the iron on top of the wire exactly like you do. I only touched the pad when tinning. Only when soldering a really big wire or a large ground pad would I feel it necessary to directly touch the pad. When tinning, I do touch the pad, but I'm in and out very fast and don't overheat it.
Bottom line: if what you do produces joints that are mechanically and electrically sound, then I don't care. But don't act like there is only one right way to accomplish that goal :-)
I completely agree jb
Plus good luck removing the lead free solder on pre-built quads at low heat.
..wow, I learned something today..
Next up: Teaching Borgonian how to focus a camera
And how you gonna do that from a troll channel with ZERO videos...Stop watching porn while smoking weed in mommies basement... MAYBE your eyes will focus for normal videos.
@@borgonianevolution So you can give but cant take. Lighten up a little before you become another cranky old man.
@@borgonianevolution I even looked at the uploaded date. Because the vid looks like it was recorded 10 years ago.
The content is good. But the picture quality is noticably bad.
And this is not a personal attack. So, don't take it personnally.
@@SekRanger Well if thats all you can find wrong with it and have nothing more to complain about than I did my job. Same could be said watching your poorly lit fish tank videos. Seems like people in this row of comments are just here to feel butt hurt for Joshua.
@@borgonianevolution Poorly lit? You have no idea what you are talking about. There's corals in there. With too many light, they will be burnt to dead.
Dude, you are old enough to be a reasonable person. Grow up.
Anyway, are you really this defensive just because someone point out the picture quality of your vid? It's like picture quality define your whole identity that you have to defend it even with your ill logic.
Oh! I just figured out. You have to use Joshua's name in the video to gain some attentions.
Anyway, I dont know who Joshua is. But you've got my attention. So, It's a win for you. clap clap.
I tried both your and bardwells Method and im Sticking to bardwells soldering advice ngl
Thank you for making the effort to see what works for you rather than come here being a troll like so many others. Good luck with your builds.
@@borgonianevolutionthis is the way!:)
Reading these comments is amazing. This guy is offended by everything and everyone 😂
Nope. Just bothered by useless trolls with no content regarding the topic coming here to insult me for trying to help new (mainly younger people) not buy into the bad information people put out. The kids that were coming to Flight Test asking for help because they followed the popular drone channels advice and destroyed their gear.
The ones that when asked why they were destroying their stuff following those videos that never responded nor tried to help those young people.
The ones that are only here to feel butt hurt for Bardwell and contribute NOTHING to the conversation about the topic like you mate.
@@borgonianevolution I dont feel butthurt im just making fun of you.
@@user-es1yl8wg8f Yes .. Thank you.. You just prove my point you are just another no value human PoS that means nothing to anyone. But keep posting. It only helps the algorithm.
@@borgonianevolution Hahah you just proved my point how can somebody be this offended by such an unserious comment on a 3 yr old video 🤣.
Grown man insulting a 16 year old because he hurt his feelings in a youtube comment.
Thats wild
@@user-es1yl8wg8f but yet again YOU are back here being stupid.. THANK YOU!
what temperature does 3 and 5 correlate to? I am using a digital iron and not really sure what temp it should be at. Other vids I've watched said it should be between 350-450c. Also are u using rosin core solder? U mentioned that flux was for plumbers, is flux not necessary? Im new to the hobby, just don't wanna fuck up my stuff when I get it
I have no idea what this particular irons temperature is at that range of numbers on the dial. What I do when starting with a new iron (MUST BE fast recovery) is to bring up the temperature a little at a time until the solder melts enough to tin a fresh tip. Then I mark that as my minimum. I use that as my warming temp as well as an idle temp if I have the iron on but will be longer times between actual soldering. Like stripping motor wires and routing them in their final place before connecting them to an FC.
When it comes time to actually solder I will raise the temp just a tiny bit for small pads or wire to wire connections. If larger pads and heavier wires like main battery leads I practice on junk Fc's or ESC's and find the range that works before trying on my actual job I am doing.
The reason I dont state temps is every Iron is different and calibration / quality of them can vary a lot. do the same with your iron and you will soon find what works best with your iron.
Again a fast recovery iron is what makes the difference how long the iron needs to sit on the piece and how much it heat soaks it over time. THAT is what kills electronics.
As for the solder it is standard Kester 60/40 rosin core thin solder on a 1lb roll that is so old the labels are worn off beyond readability.
appreciate the advice
what temp is "3" ???
NOT 10.... Go troll someone else on your troll account.
@@borgonianevolution [Target Acquired, IR Lock, FIRE]
(you don't have the temperament to be an online "personality")
@@MooseArc002 See that's where you are completely wrong you dumb ass troll.. I dont have a personality at all.. Now fuck off before I fart in your general direction
I'd say somewhere between 600 and 700... But I work fast.
@@borgonianevolution I thought that was a legitimate question because my iron only has temp settings by Farenheit or Celsius. I don't have a 1-8 or 1-10 like yours so I can't really follow along with this tutorial. I didn't need a tutorial but wanted to give it a try cus I wanted to test it out but oh well. Sure you might argue that I should be able to make an educated guess as to what temp that would be but that isn't helpful for the beginner.
I have no idea how I ended up watching this video. I guess it was the algorithm recommending similar troll accounts.
Anyway, I had a good time reading your replies in the comments. It seems like you did an OK job with the soldering, though it's hard to confirm due to the poor video quality. However, your trolling skills are impeccable. Keep it up, Joshy!
The old electrician who taught me how to solder when I was a kid told me that if you heat up electronic components to the level that you cannot touch them you risk damaging them. So, this is an awesome video that teaches it the right wayI will share this on the thrust vectoring FB group😁👍
I had all this on my other channel but it fell to a hack so I no longer have access. I just get tired of watching "the pro's" perpetuate bad habits and seeing all the victims come to us on the forums asking how to recover because the pro's take no responsibility for what they put out. I said the same thing on Flite Tests how to solder video on their sub channel. Asked Mr. Steele to stop teaching it like that years ago and his response was it works for me and basically had that whole fuck everyone else if they cant do it attitude.
@@borgonianevolution totally agree. Did your other account get hacked around the time you raised your objection on this issue?? Yeah, forgot to mention, the title is priceless😁
@@monophanvalleon6865 No it was when I had internet issues and had to do everything on a Walmart phone for a while. It never updated and got exploited took out my email and changed a lot of my gaming passwords n such. Took close to a year to recover and I still never got it all back. Luckily they didn't get any financial stuff.
@@borgonianevolution wow! Sorry to hear man...
In reflow soldering, where the whole board is heated in an oven to flow solder paste holding components to the board, the guideline is that components should stay under an absolute maximum of 260 degrees Celsius to avoid internal damage. The oven temperature is typically about 220 C to 240 C, with the solder paste's liquidus temperature being about 217 C. If one's solder technique was causing components to go over 260 C then I would agree the technique should be changed to avoid this. But even 217 C is well above where a person would feel pain, so I would say just because it hurts doesn't mean it's being damaged.
Its all about the thermal mass of the iron tip. You need to use the correct tip size for the job at hand. If you want to solder big gauge wires to big pads you need a large enough tip so it will not dissipate all the heat to the wire/pad before you finished and got a good soldered joint. If your tip is too small it will keep heating the wire/pcb but will not have enough thermal mass to quickly transfer the heat to where it is needed and you end up heating the wire/pcb/component instead of soldering it.
To a point yes. but if the iron cannot keep up with replacing the heat lost the tip size will only make it worse. That is why you use the bigger ball of solder on a tinned tip to have that mass there.
I did this video to to show new people you can solder fine electronics without cranking up the heat and peeling pads like all these uneducated knuckleheads preach in ALL of these build videos.
I spent MANY a year building electronics and doing rework on PCBs for several major companies. Take the advice or don't. My stuff always works and I have never killed a flight controller building my stuff.
@@borgonianevolution Of course - if the iron is underpowered than all of those tips doesn't matter. Maybe you should opened with - get a proper soldering iron 😂.
Bottom line is - don't mess around with it, a joint should be done as quickly as possible, if you have the right tools (iron, tip and soldering wire) its a quick job and the quicker you are the less equipment you will ruin.
Basically, I disagree with much of what you believe. I have been soldering for over 50 years; both in my profession and for personal use. I have also soldered both electronics and copper plumbing (same principles apply to both, except you will never get a good copper pipe joint using your methods). That said, I am not going to pick apart your technics. You have your concepts and I have mine.
Thank you for your comment. Sorry you failed to comprehend parts of it where I SPECIFICALLY point out this is NOT meant for plumbers. You do you mate if you have a method that works for you rock on. this was meant to show new people in the RC hobby how to NOT damage components after watching several ham-fisted people insisting they need to WELD components rather than solder them.
@@borgonianevolution I agree that there are a lot of BAD soldering videos. I only mentioned plumbing because the process is the same: A heating tool (iron or torch) is used to heat the material, when the material is hot the solder is applied to the material and it will flow and bond. I always "tin" all wires and pads first which is very effective and makes the process go smoother. Burning something is a result of spending too much time on the pad regardless of iron temperature, but then you probably knew that. Yes, I will do me and you do you.
@@buddyadkins2432 No point trying to explain to him, he's full of himself. Easier to just laugh at him like the rest of us
If you redo this at some point, please zoom in closer to the actual board. There is no need to have 75% of the screen showing your workbench background.
Won't be doin this over.. too many people feelin butt hurt for Bardwell and other complaints not related to the topic. Just a word about the zoom... Its not easy to solder tiny things with the camera basically attached to your nose. Maybe you make one and show us all how its done?
Here, I was hoping 'Bardwell' was one of your kids 😂
These are good tips though, I'm absolutely shit at soldering. Probably because I use a cheap Weller like you refer to!
This is basically the way ive been soldering for years... Flux on the wire only really helps wick in the solder quickly. I generally dont put flux on the board cause it makes a mess. It the solder melts to it its not a cold joint! I really smush thw 12g wires though cause i usually use a super fine tip and am too lazy to change it.
Digging the title. I’ll have to watch later.
nice one, thank you
I need help! 😢 flew my first bnf, battery got too low and fell out the sky onto a road and got ran over. Now need to replace all 4 motors. All the tips are appreciated. It's sometimes intimidating trying to watch videos from big RUclipsrs and trying to follow along. And they never answer!
Not much I can help with if you give zero information about the aircraft other then "smooshed like grape in middle of the road".. I suggest maybe post pictures and ask questions on the Flite Test Forums so people in the hobby can see what you have to work with AND be able to ask questions about your specific gear.
He mentioned not to use a cheap soldering iron, but the one he is using is cheap 😂😂😂 it’s a 30 dollar iron
Oh you're a real brain child aren't you. There is a difference between cheap ( radio shack set wattage irons ) vs economical ( the one in the video) that not only is temperature controlled but a fast recovery iron.
Maybe try saving your level of stupid for Tik Tok and titty bars where "snarky" is cute and leave the real information for here.
@@borgonianevolution 😂😂😂you’re real macho aren’t you bud. Mouthing off on social media makes u feel real tough 😂😂
@@jortega61924 What are you like 16? go away or I will taunt you a second time!
Like I said save your comments for Tik Tok and titty bars where you have at least half a chance to impress some one.
Any more childish comments I will block you and put you in time out.
Thank you this worked much better
Honestly, I think beginners' ruining boards are the result of poor-quality solder, not the "heat the pad queue." I bought the El Cheapo Amazon solder, and it won't melt or flow properly even at 900 degrees. Simply flowing an xt60 joint (only touching the solder) is enough to heat the entire board to finger-burning temperature. You will transfer the same amount of heat to the board whether you touch the pad or not simply because there is liquid metal (an excellent conductor) bridging the gap between the pad and iron. What causes board overheating is how hot the iron is and how long you spend. With good solder that melts at low temperatures and flows quickly, little time and heat are needed.
Probably because you are using that lead free shit solder. 60/40 rosin core is all you will ever need. No flux pens none of that other crap these knuckleheads preach.
I worked for Harris RF Communications building Military radios in the 90's. Their strict standards for soldering both in finished product as well as process is top notch.
95% of peoples problems when soldering is they are NOT using a FAST RECOVERY Iron NOTHING to do with the solder used.
@borgonianevolution the solder claims to be 60 40 but is either extremely impure or has little to no rosin core.
@@eldenchunugus What brand did you use? I bought the 1lb roll of Kester's like 12 years ago and still have half a roll.
@borgonianevolution the brand is mayium and should be one of the first things that pops up on Amazon. I'm going to buy a roll of Kester for my next build.
When you see someone using the iron like a screwdriver (twisting) and the iron tip is all carboned up it makes me squirm ................
Where in this video do you see carbon on any thing? That tip is properly tinned and clean. If you are talking about the minerals on the iron from wiping it clean on the sponge that is normal. It is obvious you are on a troll account and have ZERO clue what you speak of. Go make some videos that help people THEN come back with something to base the stupid that just fell out of your keyboard off of. MAYBE some one might take you serious.
Level 3 electronics tech here, You are absolutely incorrect on this. You want to heat the pad and let wire flow into the solder. You are bonding the wire to the pad. Not the other way around, every place I have worked at doing microsoldering relies on heating the pad not the component. If you tried this with anything other than wires you would be fired for frying microprocessors, caps, resistors, etc... Also you are incorrect on saying you don't need flux. Flux is one of the most important components in getting strong clean welds.
Well you can go explain that to Harris RF Communications where I was trained making secure radio systems for the US Militaries.
@@borgonianevolution I do micro soldering and your technique would not work for micro soldering on a production scale level. I get you want to stick to how you were taught how ever many years ago by whoever was qualified at that time, but this is a new day and age in electronics. I have worked for big name tech industries and never once was I taught how you do things.
@@VinM817 Did you read the context of the video? this is more geared towards the RC hobby where new builders are frying their electronics after following the "pro pilots" build videos where they are told to crank their irons up super high and they are decimating their flight controllers and electronic speed controllers.
Good for you for being in the industry though.
No offense: disagree.
And your professional experience in the electronics industry you base this vague reply on is? Or did you just learn how to build dronez from Mr. Steele videos?
@@borgonianevolution Dude, I thought your video was interesting but your behavior is pathetic. Let people disagree with you without without then going after them, god damn dude...
@@borgonianevolution Just common sense, everyone disagrees with you because... You're wrong. You're also being wrong in a very cocky way which makes it more embarrassing.
I'll put my reply here since you keep deleting it out of pure humiliation - You can put on overalls and call yourself a mechanic.. doesn't mean you're good at it or have any idea what you're doing.. There's a reason the entire comment section is laughing at you. Maybe just stick to guitars and dying your beard?
@@OnelastgoTV I will ask you the same question. YOUR experience in the electronics industry would be what?
Oh wait you have none... your just a wanna be gamer who twitch streams..
So in the immortal words of Edie Murphy: "Have a coke and a smile and STFU"
Come back after you move out of mommies basement and get some life experience mate.
@@borgonianevolution You can put on overalls and call yourself an engineer, doesn't mean you have any idea what you're doing or that you're any good. There's a reason the whole comment section is disagreeing and laughing at you.
- Irony of talking about mommies basement while you're some 40 year old fat dude still in a goth phase with a pink beard. Can't make this shit up.
wrong.