Best video ever watched. So unfortunate that my favourite lens has so much breathing but this tricks fix everything. Totally with the time I spend to watch this! Subscribed!
Try legacy stabilizer if you are having weird results with the "simpler" and newer stabilizers. I have found that if you cut your shot down to exactly what you want to fix with a little bit of handle, maybe 10 or so frames, you can get a pretty clean fix with just zoom checked on if the new stabilizers are giving you trouble.
@@TonyDae Thanks, much appreciated! I'll keep that in mind. And yes, I always cut down first and then apply the stabilizer for a better result. I'm already impressed how fast the DR stabilizer is. PP took way longer, but on the other hand it didn't have to reanalyze the shot while switching between different stabilization modes.
Premiere Pro generally sucks in a lot of ways compared to Resolve and the warp stabilizer is definitely one of those areas where Resolve is significantly better.
@@TonyDae My first impression was actually the other way around. It took a while, but now I got the hang of the DR stabilizer. And it just got better with your help, thanks again :)
I’d like to ask,,,, I’m buying a BM4k and am contemplating lenses for it. Given my budget is not that great do you have some suggestions on one or two that one should look at having?
What in US dollars is your budget and what do you plan on shooting? Are you open to getting lens supports and adapters or native mount only? Need more information to be helpful.
Tony Dae so I’m Australian in Australia but my budget would be about 2-3k. I will be mainly doco, interviews with b-roll exteriors. I’ll be normally fixed tripod mounted. I’m just starting out, doing some interviews. Will also use content for social media posts. I have done some shorts so I do have the intention of using it for that as well but it’s not the primary purpose.
So if you're looking at 2-3k for only lenses I'd say you have some room to play. If you are not including filters or other things then you have less room. If you are saying 2-3k total then it will be really tough. If you want to go native mount I would recommend one normal zoom and a head shot lens that can achieve a shallow depth of field look. The Olympus pro series has good lenses that I prefer over the Panasonic lenses or even voightlanders. The 12-40 f2.8 or the 12-100 f4 are great leaning toward the 12-100 for ois when you need it and the reach. The Olympus 45 f1.2 can function as a headshot lens. These lenses I prefer over many because they are good optically and can use electronic functions which you may need if you operate solo. They also in my opinion have better build and focus functions than other similar lenses. If you can only get one, get the 12-40 used. If you have more money... The other set that should be within your budget (if you mean 2-3k for lenses only) is what I've got... Both sigma f1.8 zooms and the metabones speed booster. That pair will do just about everything you will need on a tripod and will mount and work on anything super 35 including Red, Canon, Arri, Blackmagic, Panasonic, Sony but the m43 (native mount) lenses won't. If you need a shoulder mount coverage kind of lens it's hard to beat a 24-105 f4 from Canon or sigma for the price. I don't use Nikon glass. The sigma zooms are extremely difficult for me to replace, especially the 18-35. If you don't like the 50-100 due to weight, and it will need support by the way, then I would recommend the Sigma Art 50 f1.4 or Zeiss Milvus 50 f1.4 for head shots. Both will be perfectly sharp at the widest apertures and provide excellent image quality and in my opinion are really hard to beat at their focal length for the price. The Milvus is better optically and mechanically but the Sigma has electronic functionality including auto focus capability. Pick your poison. And no I don't recommend the Canon 50's at all. You will also need to look at getting some filters. I recommend getting some IRND filters or the SLR magic VNDii including the image enhancers. You will need infrared filters and the image enhancers do the job with the vnd surprisingly well. The image enhancers do a nice job with skin under daylight and led or fluorescent lights. The last thing I'll say on this is you may want to look at a creative filter for headshots like Tiffen glimmerglass or satin, and also look at Schneider Hollywood black magic to soften faces if you don't want to do any digital makeup in post. Tiffen promist is very popular but I think it's far too hazy compared to satin or the black magic filters.
Tony Dae thankyou thankyou! I’ll do some research on these suggestions and work out something. Yea, my budget isn’t the best but that’s what I have,,, at the moment. When I get some added $ I’ll look at broadening my kit. I still have to get some lights, just got a pull-up and pull down blue/green screen on the cheap from my local technical college. Happy about that.
I used to own a whole set of FD and got rid of them due to flaring and magenta tint on certain situations. The Hollywood black magic filters paired with sharp glass works very well for adding halation and diffusion without so many issues. You can also soften the images in post by doubling a clip and adding a reduction in sharpness and midtone detail. The thing that for me was the back breaker on FD was the ghosting and flares when I had any stray lighting or a source in frame which is likely due to the back element not having any anti reflective coatings. On one occasion it took far longer than necessary to light an interview because I was stuck in a room with a big window and that plus my fill lights played hell on the Canon nfd 50mm... Milky hazy image. You don't see these issues on film so much with these lenses. I get why people like the older glass but my advice is, especially for people looking to make money find normal work, to stay away because I think they're more trouble than they're worth and use either digital make up or diffusion filters to soften.
Si quelqu’un que parle français veut faire une video comme celui ci va cartonner il n’existe pas en fr et c’est dommage aussi parce que mon ang est null ☹️😅
Hi Tony, thanks for all your tips and tricks on Resolve and BMPCC and for that reason I have been following you for more than a year. Just wanted to check with you if the Cinematics Lens Mod of Sigma 18-35 T2.0 and Sigma 50-100 T2.0 are worth over the normal Sigma ones. I am aware the mods versions have also focus breathing issue just like the normal Sigma lens. I have provided the website link for your reference and would really appreciate for feedback www.pchood.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=sigma&category_id=0&product_id=356 www.pchood.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=sigma&category_id=0&product_id=359
Hi there. I cannot tell you about this particular mod by PChood and I have no experience with the vendor. If you are not familiar with the vendor, thoroughly vet them before giving them any money. Here is what I think you need to do first regardless. 1: Think about why you would need a cine version. Do you need to have the heavier housing? Do you need standardized front diameters? Do you need the gears? Can you support heavier lenses on your camera rig? Do you need a longer focus throw on the lens instead of extending with a wireless follow focus? If there are no particular reasons that you would need to have a cine version, don't get it. You can always borrow/rent cinema lenses if needed for those purposes if they crop up and if you can utilize features of electronic lenses for other cheaper jobs, then there is no reason to necessarily buy a cine version of a lens. You will essentially be paying more for something you would not utilize fully. 2: Think about why you would not want a cine version. Do you need electronic focusing like auto focus? Do you want to control the lens remotely via electronic aperture, focus? If you do want electronic use of the lens, you may not want the cine version. The only cine mod company I am aware of that has successfully modded lenses for friends of mine is Duclos and I am not familiar with PCHood. The mods can be wonderful and a no-brainer for older lenses that are fully mechanical and need basically a rehousing. The mods can be relatively pointless if they offer nothing over what a brand new cine version of a lens already has on offer. Sigma currently sells Cine versions of the Sigma 18-35 and 50-100 and if it were my money, I would opt to get the Sigma manufacturer versions over modifying an existing lens.
@@TonyDae Thanks a lot for the feedback, and appreciate for your response. Agree to your points, however I was thinking as these lenses will give parfocal which are really helpful during video shoots as well as declicked aperture. As the normal photo version of the lens won't be able to provide either of them hence was thinking about the options. I also agree the lens gets heavier due to the mods which is a con definitely. Also the Cine Sigma versions of 18-35 and 50-100 are way costly and beyond my budget.
Unless the mod company has added something to the optics to make the lenses par focal, they won't be par focal as the lenses are not designed to be. They are near par focal but are not true par focal zooms, not even the Sigma cine versions are. Also, even par focal zooms may need shimming to get them to perform that way, so unless the mod company can alter the lenses to be perfect for your mount, I would not really expect them to perform this way without shimming on your end. How does a de clicked aperture help you? I have never personally found de-clicked apertures useful for my purposes since I can use the wheel or sliders to change aperture easily. I am used to Canon lens functionality.
@@TonyDae thanks for taking time to provide feedback. I am not sure if they have added to the optics to make the lenses par focal. However seen the information in the website as well as couple of only RUclips videos that are available. I haven't tried anytime declicked aperture however what I think it may help in smooth transition rather than hard stops as normal lenses have.
Check out this thread first: forum.blackmagicdesign.com/viewtopic.php?t=55324 Considering how cheap it is to do the rehousing compared to the Sigma manufactured versions and other companies well known for good quality rehousing, I suspect that the quality may not be optimal. You may be spending a lot of money for something that could fall apart in a years time, but I don't know. I can't say I have heard anything good about this particular company, but Duclos and GL Optics seem to be the ones people generally go to for rehousing jobs.
"Sit down... and shut up." Every time I hear that, I know I'm about to learn something useful, with no b.s., fluff or filler. Thank you man.
Apart from the first 10 minutes that are only filler :D
What a brilliant idea! I would never have thought of doing it this way.
Never used the similarity option. Thanks a lot for this glorius tip!
"turd in the punch bowl situation" I never heard that before and laughed hard when I heard it. Thanks for that gem.
Brilliant work mate 👍🏼
you sir are a bloody lifesaver!
Great technique. Thanks so much.
Best video ever watched. So unfortunate that my favourite lens has so much breathing but this tricks fix everything. Totally with the time I spend to watch this!
Subscribed!
similarity thing looks so good, thanks
I was literally thinking about this way of fixing this issue today and was gonna try it on some footage and saw this video :) Great work!
G E N I U S. I always had bad experiences applying a stabilizer (PP + DR) with Rack Focuses. I'll give this one a shot, looks very promising.
Try legacy stabilizer if you are having weird results with the "simpler" and newer stabilizers. I have found that if you cut your shot down to exactly what you want to fix with a little bit of handle, maybe 10 or so frames, you can get a pretty clean fix with just zoom checked on if the new stabilizers are giving you trouble.
@@TonyDae Thanks, much appreciated! I'll keep that in mind. And yes, I always cut down first and then apply the stabilizer for a better result. I'm already impressed how fast the DR stabilizer is. PP took way longer, but on the other hand it didn't have to reanalyze the shot while switching between different stabilization modes.
Premiere Pro generally sucks in a lot of ways compared to Resolve and the warp stabilizer is definitely one of those areas where Resolve is significantly better.
@@TonyDae My first impression was actually the other way around. It took a while, but now I got the hang of the DR stabilizer. And it just got better with your help, thanks again :)
Thanks a ton!
Thank you!!!!
Interesting, something I should try with photos. I shot a few photos using a tripod. So far I've only shot with a smartphhone.
Any updates? Does this still work well or is there an improved workflow?
What is the solution with Final Cut?
Danke!
Thank you for the donation! Very much appreciated!
I luv you man..
I’d like to ask,,,, I’m buying a BM4k and am contemplating lenses for it. Given my budget is not that great do you have some suggestions on one or two that one should look at having?
What in US dollars is your budget and what do you plan on shooting? Are you open to getting lens supports and adapters or native mount only? Need more information to be helpful.
Tony Dae so I’m Australian in Australia but my budget would be about 2-3k. I will be mainly doco, interviews with b-roll exteriors. I’ll be normally fixed tripod mounted. I’m just starting out, doing some interviews. Will also use content for social media posts. I have done some shorts so I do have the intention of using it for that as well but it’s not the primary purpose.
So if you're looking at 2-3k for only lenses I'd say you have some room to play. If you are not including filters or other things then you have less room. If you are saying 2-3k total then it will be really tough.
If you want to go native mount I would recommend one normal zoom and a head shot lens that can achieve a shallow depth of field look. The Olympus pro series has good lenses that I prefer over the Panasonic lenses or even voightlanders. The 12-40 f2.8 or the 12-100 f4 are great leaning toward the 12-100 for ois when you need it and the reach. The Olympus 45 f1.2 can function as a headshot lens. These lenses I prefer over many because they are good optically and can use electronic functions which you may need if you operate solo. They also in my opinion have better build and focus functions than other similar lenses. If you can only get one, get the 12-40 used.
If you have more money...
The other set that should be within your budget (if you mean 2-3k for lenses only) is what I've got... Both sigma f1.8 zooms and the metabones speed booster. That pair will do just about everything you will need on a tripod and will mount and work on anything super 35 including Red, Canon, Arri, Blackmagic, Panasonic, Sony but the m43 (native mount) lenses won't. If you need a shoulder mount coverage kind of lens it's hard to beat a 24-105 f4 from Canon or sigma for the price. I don't use Nikon glass.
The sigma zooms are extremely difficult for me to replace, especially the 18-35.
If you don't like the 50-100 due to weight, and it will need support by the way, then I would recommend the Sigma Art 50 f1.4 or Zeiss Milvus 50 f1.4 for head shots. Both will be perfectly sharp at the widest apertures and provide excellent image quality and in my opinion are really hard to beat at their focal length for the price. The Milvus is better optically and mechanically but the Sigma has electronic functionality including auto focus capability. Pick your poison. And no I don't recommend the Canon 50's at all.
You will also need to look at getting some filters. I recommend getting some IRND filters or the SLR magic VNDii including the image enhancers. You will need infrared filters and the image enhancers do the job with the vnd surprisingly well. The image enhancers do a nice job with skin under daylight and led or fluorescent lights.
The last thing I'll say on this is you may want to look at a creative filter for headshots like Tiffen glimmerglass or satin, and also look at Schneider Hollywood black magic to soften faces if you don't want to do any digital makeup in post. Tiffen promist is very popular but I think it's far too hazy compared to satin or the black magic filters.
Tony Dae thankyou thankyou! I’ll do some research on these suggestions and work out something. Yea, my budget isn’t the best but that’s what I have,,, at the moment. When I get some added $ I’ll look at broadening my kit. I still have to get some lights, just got a pull-up and pull down blue/green screen on the cheap from my local technical college. Happy about that.
I used to own a whole set of FD and got rid of them due to flaring and magenta tint on certain situations. The Hollywood black magic filters paired with sharp glass works very well for adding halation and diffusion without so many issues. You can also soften the images in post by doubling a clip and adding a reduction in sharpness and midtone detail.
The thing that for me was the back breaker on FD was the ghosting and flares when I had any stray lighting or a source in frame which is likely due to the back element not having any anti reflective coatings. On one occasion it took far longer than necessary to light an interview because I was stuck in a room with a big window and that plus my fill lights played hell on the Canon nfd 50mm... Milky hazy image. You don't see these issues on film so much with these lenses.
I get why people like the older glass but my advice is, especially for people looking to make money find normal work, to stay away because I think they're more trouble than they're worth and use either digital make up or diffusion filters to soften.
Does everyone edit in the color tab or am I the only one scratching my head as to why he stabilizing in the color correcting section?
I don't see the reason to do lens corrections in the edit tab. That's for editing imo. You do you.
@@TonyDae got it ! I was just curious if I was doing it all wrong but I see it's just a matter of comfort I guess 😂.
yaah i have one 😭
Si quelqu’un que parle français veut faire une video comme celui ci va cartonner il n’existe pas en fr et c’est dommage aussi parce que mon ang est null ☹️😅
If somebody sends me a French version of closed captioning I can update the video with that.
Hi Tony, thanks for all your tips and tricks on Resolve and BMPCC and for that reason I have been following you for more than a year.
Just wanted to check with you if the Cinematics Lens Mod of Sigma 18-35 T2.0 and Sigma 50-100 T2.0 are worth over the normal Sigma ones.
I am aware the mods versions have also focus breathing issue just like the normal Sigma lens.
I have provided the website link for your reference and would really appreciate for feedback
www.pchood.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=sigma&category_id=0&product_id=356
www.pchood.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=sigma&category_id=0&product_id=359
Hi there. I cannot tell you about this particular mod by PChood and I have no experience with the vendor. If you are not familiar with the vendor, thoroughly vet them before giving them any money.
Here is what I think you need to do first regardless.
1: Think about why you would need a cine version. Do you need to have the heavier housing? Do you need standardized front diameters? Do you need the gears? Can you support heavier lenses on your camera rig? Do you need a longer focus throw on the lens instead of extending with a wireless follow focus?
If there are no particular reasons that you would need to have a cine version, don't get it. You can always borrow/rent cinema lenses if needed for those purposes if they crop up and if you can utilize features of electronic lenses for other cheaper jobs, then there is no reason to necessarily buy a cine version of a lens. You will essentially be paying more for something you would not utilize fully.
2: Think about why you would not want a cine version. Do you need electronic focusing like auto focus? Do you want to control the lens remotely via electronic aperture, focus? If you do want electronic use of the lens, you may not want the cine version.
The only cine mod company I am aware of that has successfully modded lenses for friends of mine is Duclos and I am not familiar with PCHood. The mods can be wonderful and a no-brainer for older lenses that are fully mechanical and need basically a rehousing.
The mods can be relatively pointless if they offer nothing over what a brand new cine version of a lens already has on offer. Sigma currently sells Cine versions of the Sigma 18-35 and 50-100 and if it were my money, I would opt to get the Sigma manufacturer versions over modifying an existing lens.
@@TonyDae Thanks a lot for the feedback, and appreciate for your response. Agree to your points, however I was thinking as these lenses will give parfocal which are really helpful during video shoots as well as declicked aperture. As the normal photo version of the lens won't be able to provide either of them hence was thinking about the options.
I also agree the lens gets heavier due to the mods which is a con definitely.
Also the Cine Sigma versions of 18-35 and 50-100 are way costly and beyond my budget.
Unless the mod company has added something to the optics to make the lenses par focal, they won't be par focal as the lenses are not designed to be. They are near par focal but are not true par focal zooms, not even the Sigma cine versions are. Also, even par focal zooms may need shimming to get them to perform that way, so unless the mod company can alter the lenses to be perfect for your mount, I would not really expect them to perform this way without shimming on your end.
How does a de clicked aperture help you? I have never personally found de-clicked apertures useful for my purposes since I can use the wheel or sliders to change aperture easily. I am used to Canon lens functionality.
@@TonyDae thanks for taking time to provide feedback. I am not sure if they have added to the optics to make the lenses par focal. However seen the information in the website as well as couple of only RUclips videos that are available.
I haven't tried anytime declicked aperture however what I think it may help in smooth transition rather than hard stops as normal lenses have.
Check out this thread first:
forum.blackmagicdesign.com/viewtopic.php?t=55324
Considering how cheap it is to do the rehousing compared to the Sigma manufactured versions and other companies well known for good quality rehousing, I suspect that the quality may not be optimal. You may be spending a lot of money for something that could fall apart in a years time, but I don't know. I can't say I have heard anything good about this particular company, but Duclos and GL Optics seem to be the ones people generally go to for rehousing jobs.
It doesn't look fixed to me. I want to buy this lens, but your efforts have persuaded me NOT to.
Sounds like I saved you some money! You're welcome!