What grit sandpaper do you recommend to lap a coticule? I just honed my razor for the first time without lapping it but I think it went alright, the razor definitely improved a lot. Was just a touch up with mostly water, hardly any slurry.
They certainly CAN be, but most often they're extremely dense & softer, something north of cold butter; this one in the vid looks less dense, more hard, and more brittle than the norm to me.
Assuming it is flat, the razor doesn't care if the coticule's top's rough; but it does make observing the water movement ahead of the blade more difficult to use as a sharpness barometer, so I still do it before using any coticule the 1st time. I'd start with ~220-grit paper and go thru as many grits/progressions above this as your patience allows, the finer and more flush you make the top the better it'll feel and communicate to your senses the blade condition.
Standing water would not dislodge the buildup of sediment in the lapping plate's very shallow "interrupted holes"...not any chance. I even try to not open the pipe much and it won't work. Fortunately, this IS Northern Florida, not Southern California or Nevada or the like...
Hi jared question I bought a coticule from an antique store for 5 bucks its 7 in long by 1/12 wide i used a artificial nagura to raise slurry and it seemed to dull the edge i then used my 600 grit diamond plate and got a whopper of an edge does this seem right ty
sounds like slurry gave refined-geometrically-and-slightly-dull edge which your diamond plate made toothy enough to cut well. You can do much better than this.
+Nicholas Paraskevas I'd recommend the combination pack starting at 220 and just redo your steps to get smoother and smoother top, razor won't care but your brain sure will (and the water should move more uniformly ahead of the blade during the strokes, which is helpful)
Just goes to show you what qualifications u need to comment on the internet as an expert (NONE)....they ought to ask DMT. The "D8C" sells best 'cuz it is cheaper, but the "duo" works WAY better for cotis, and it is no harm to use the "X" side...I even use the "XX" diasharp for really hard ones or the blue stone, and that's the newer 4x10" lapping plate DMT's so proud of. The only drawback to 'em is the eyesore of their scratches, which goes away with some hearty slurry quick enough.
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This was helpful. I was able to restore a vintage coticule I picked up with minimal effort. Thanks.
yw happy shaving your way
I had never thought about using the back side of a coticule!
Some really great tips here, especially on chamfering the edges of the stone.
Great video , Jarrod!
Main reason the duos r so much better on that sort of stuff is that they don't constantly get stuck to the hone.
What grit sandpaper do you recommend to lap a coticule? I just honed my razor for the first time without lapping it but I think it went alright, the razor definitely improved a lot. Was just a touch up with mostly water, hardly any slurry.
They certainly CAN be, but most often they're extremely dense & softer, something north of cold butter; this one in the vid looks less dense, more hard, and more brittle than the norm to me.
Assuming it is flat, the razor doesn't care if the coticule's top's rough; but it does make observing the water movement ahead of the blade more difficult to use as a sharpness barometer, so I still do it before using any coticule the 1st time. I'd start with ~220-grit paper and go thru as many grits/progressions above this as your patience allows, the finer and more flush you make the top the better it'll feel and communicate to your senses the blade condition.
Those stones sound harder than i expected them to be.
Standing water would not dislodge the buildup of sediment in the lapping plate's very shallow "interrupted holes"...not any chance. I even try to not open the pipe much and it won't work. Fortunately, this IS Northern Florida, not Southern California or Nevada or the like...
Also how many laps should be done is mor than 40 surfice
way too many factors to say; stone size, stone speed, razor condition, razor hardness, etc etc etc.
It is done when it is done, and not before.
Hi jared question I bought a coticule from an antique store for 5 bucks its 7 in long by 1/12 wide i used a artificial nagura to raise slurry and it seemed to dull the edge i then used my 600 grit diamond plate and got a whopper of an edge does this seem right ty
sounds like slurry gave refined-geometrically-and-slightly-dull edge which your diamond plate made toothy enough to cut well. You can do much better than this.
What grit should i use if i used sandpaper?
+Nicholas Paraskevas I'd recommend the combination pack starting at 220 and just redo your steps to get smoother and smoother top, razor won't care but your brain sure will (and the water should move more uniformly ahead of the blade during the strokes, which is helpful)
Just goes to show you what qualifications u need to comment on the internet as an expert (NONE)....they ought to ask DMT. The "D8C" sells best 'cuz it is cheaper, but the "duo" works WAY better for cotis, and it is no harm to use the "X" side...I even use the "XX" diasharp for really hard ones or the blue stone, and that's the newer 4x10" lapping plate DMT's so proud of. The only drawback to 'em is the eyesore of their scratches, which goes away with some hearty slurry quick enough.