Do you recommend tree-wrapping in hardiness zone 8 (here in UK)? (There are no critters to worry about, no snow, only sun and chilled air in front of a heat pump.)
Without knowing more specifics (like tree type, tree size, how protected of a spot the tree is going, etc.), if you are still reaching freezing temperatures, have wide temperature fluctuations from day to night, and/or the tree is in an open spot where it receives intense winter sunlight, you might want to protect your tree from sun scald and frost cracks and/or provide it with some added level of insulation. Younger trees and certain types of trees (like maples and fruit trees) with thinner bark thinner bark are more susceptible to damage from the sun, from large daily temperature swings, and from moisture loss through the bark. Also, I'm not sure that there are many spots on earth that are inhabited by humans, where rodents (who happen to love young/supple bark) don't also exist. If your tree/location isn't at risk, then it would seem unnecessary and on the flip-side you risk damage by leaving it on too long - promoting a spot for insects and disease/fungus to live and grow (the latter particularly in a moist climate). For those reasons, if you do decide to use it, be sure to remove it as soon as the cold danger is gone and the growing season starts.
@@VanZeelandNurseryLandscape i told you a little history of our wildlife garden, just as a thank you for your helpful reply ... it seems to have dsappeared ... anyway, all best to you and your trees over the cold season
It depends upon what you are trying to accomplish. Both provide protection - but to varying degrees of different hazards. The tube is going to provide a strong level of protection from rabbits and deer and good sun/scald protection. It may not provide any protection from smaller rodents (like mice), who might even make a home out of the tube (if it is too large and loose). The paper is going to be better at providing protection for those smaller rodents, good protection from other animals (but not as good as a tube), and excellent sun/scald protection. You certainly can't go wrong by doing both, but it may not be necessary.
Tyler513 - it depends on a variety of factors, including what you are trying to protect the trees from. If you are trying to protect trees from deer damage, for instance, it is not uncommon to see larger trees (even 4"+ diameter) thrashed by larger whitetail deer - especially fruit trees. Softer barked trees, like certain maples, are going to be more sensitive to sunscald - even at an older age. If you can scratch through the bark (and expose the green layer underneath), with your fingernail or something hard, like a key, then consider protecting it. It's difficult to describe without imagery, but when a tree develops its thicker/more coarse/platy/mature bark you are safe from most damage - whether that be sunscald or animals.
That was very informative, I like the white thing,
so easy to use where can I buy it?
Rosinah - thank you! If you support local businesses, many garden centers will probably sell the tree guards. Otherwise, you can purchase them online.
Do you recommend tree-wrapping in hardiness zone 8 (here in UK)? (There are no critters to worry about, no snow, only sun and chilled air in front of a heat pump.)
Without knowing more specifics (like tree type, tree size, how protected of a spot the tree is going, etc.), if you are still reaching freezing temperatures, have wide temperature fluctuations from day to night, and/or the tree is in an open spot where it receives intense winter sunlight, you might want to protect your tree from sun scald and frost cracks and/or provide it with some added level of insulation. Younger trees and certain types of trees (like maples and fruit trees) with thinner bark thinner bark are more susceptible to damage from the sun, from large daily temperature swings, and from moisture loss through the bark. Also, I'm not sure that there are many spots on earth that are inhabited by humans, where rodents (who happen to love young/supple bark) don't also exist. If your tree/location isn't at risk, then it would seem unnecessary and on the flip-side you risk damage by leaving it on too long - promoting a spot for insects and disease/fungus to live and grow (the latter particularly in a moist climate). For those reasons, if you do decide to use it, be sure to remove it as soon as the cold danger is gone and the growing season starts.
@@VanZeelandNurseryLandscape i told you a little history of our wildlife garden, just as a thank you for your helpful reply ... it seems to have dsappeared ... anyway, all best to you and your trees over the cold season
As I understand, we should have paper tree wrap inside and tree guard tube outside for double protection ???
It depends upon what you are trying to accomplish. Both provide protection - but to varying degrees of different hazards. The tube is going to provide a strong level of protection from rabbits and deer and good sun/scald protection. It may not provide any protection from smaller rodents (like mice), who might even make a home out of the tube (if it is too large and loose). The paper is going to be better at providing protection for those smaller rodents, good protection from other animals (but not as good as a tube), and excellent sun/scald protection. You certainly can't go wrong by doing both, but it may not be necessary.
Do you take them off when it starts to warm up or do you leave them
You can take them off in spring, when you don't expect any more hard frosts.
How long should I do this? In other words, when is a tree no longer young?
Tyler513 - it depends on a variety of factors, including what you are trying to protect the trees from. If you are trying to protect trees from deer damage, for instance, it is not uncommon to see larger trees (even 4"+ diameter) thrashed by larger whitetail deer - especially fruit trees. Softer barked trees, like certain maples, are going to be more sensitive to sunscald - even at an older age. If you can scratch through the bark (and expose the green layer underneath), with your fingernail or something hard, like a key, then consider protecting it. It's difficult to describe without imagery, but when a tree develops its thicker/more coarse/platy/mature bark you are safe from most damage - whether that be sunscald or animals.