Checking level from the bottom of the boards? That surprised me. Normally I would want to be sure the top is level and boards are flush to each other. That is, after-all, where the floor actually is installed.
Hey, I was just curious why you didn't use Sakrete Concrete Tube on this project? This is a project I am thinking about adding on my deck so thanks for any comment.
I would always recommend doing it that way for longevity of the posts. The customer wanted to save costs as much as possible and didn't see the need for footers to grade. Best method is definitely footers to grade and simpson post brackets to set posts off the concrete. Hope you deck project works out great. Thanks for watching
Why didn't you cut out a slot in the 4x4 going in the ground and let it continue up to be the post for the hand rail also? It would be alot stronger that way.
It was 20ft x 13ft. I only used 3 on the one side, so, would think that you could use 6 and be fine. I would be most concerned about shear bracing on the posts (angled pieces towards the top of the post) since it will be free standing. You could pull up a deck guide for your local area to see how they detail it to be done because that's one way to pass code for deck posts. Hope that helps you. Thanks for watching
Also a tip I would plan for the width to be just under 20ft because the longest decking you can get is 20ft in length. Otherwise you will need to stagger you pieces and have seems in the field.
Doesn't the concrete eat away at the posts over time? I thought the proper way of doing this was to use a sonotube and insert a mounting bolt and a bracket on top of that for holding the post so the concrete doesn't eat up the post. But I am no carpenter, so correct me if I'm wrong.
You're not wrong. That would be the best way of doing footer with wood post. The homeowner was looking to save on costs and also felt it was not needed for this project. Thanks for watching
@@horstcarpentry No problem... I was watching because I am getting ready to do a very similar thing to my house.. My only question is, would it be a good idea or possible to just run the 6x6 posts all the way up as to support the roof? I'm not sure what you've done yet as I've only watched your first video.. I am a BAS controls technician/electrician by trade, I am rather weak at carpentry. Lol
No worries. You only need the 6 x 6 to support the beam under the deck or in this case a rim beam on the end of the deck. A 4 x 4 can support the beams above which are supporting the roof. Most important thing is to remember that all loads must stack. Meaning your posts which support the roof should be on top of your 6 x 6s which support your beam. This allows the load to transfer all the way down to the footers. Thanks again
Problem is that usually the soils near the house are disturbed. You would have to dig down until you hit undisturbed soil, possibly to the bottom of the footers of the basement (5ft deep?). That's usually the hardest part of using an inside beam. Soils around here are mostly red clay but some areas are more sandy.
@@horstcarpentry Ok LOL I didn't inform you that I'm talking about a house 70' house trailer. (Whoops) So with your info, I will stud it on the house side. Plz don't throw your hammer at me. I'm old and I'll break :o)
You are correct that code states you cannot ledge to a brick facade. I let the homeowner know that we would need a second beam to support the house side. The footers for this beam would need to be at the house footer depth to get to virgin soil. The homeowner decided against this and said just ledge to the house. I can only do the job that my customer wants me to do. Thanks for watching and commenting
@@horstcarpentry you can tell the owner to hire someone else instead of taking on the liability and possibly negative reputation when it fails and he blames you.
Hi ,can this method be used to make a 12x20 room addition and instead of deck board sub floor panels also the post free stand when adding concrte correct.
If your house has a brick exterior than you would need to install an additional beam towards the house unlike what I did here. They're a bunch of different ways to "attach" to the house you really need to do some research into your local building code. Thanks for watching
If it is free standing then that is fine. I usually still attach a ledge, that isnt structural, to the house just to secure it. Everyone has their own opinion about what they like to do so mine is just one of many you will find. Thanks again
Pressure treated lumber doesn't need anything between the lumber and brick. Normally would flash on top of the ledge and that's all. At least with the porch being enclosed it really minimizes any water entry
Странный способ строительства: сверху вниз. Обычно наоборот, с фундамента начинают. Столбы, кроме пропитки, ничем от гниения не защитил. Стыки висят на саморезах. Вот тачка - классная.
Sorry, but, I don't like to give that kinda stuff out. But, rule of thumb is usually triple materials to get a price for something.... I don't charge that much though.
It's hard for me to gauge the labor rates down there, but, I can say the materials were around $7500 for this project. Normally alot of contractors triple the material cost, so, use that as a gauge of price. Also, alot depends on the type of finishing and different materials as well. If I did a different screening system it would've been less expensive by maybe $800 or so. There's alot to factor into the price. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Thanks for watching
I love it how you dont hide your mistakes and admit to them. Much respect.
Thank you and glad you enjoyed the video
Great idea God bless you 📽️🌾🙏🌾🌾📽️📽️❤️
Thank you
Really enjoy watching your videos
New sub here
I’m watching all of these because I am also doing this to my house but just a little bit bigger.
Thanks for the explanations.
Thanks for following along and glad you're enjoying the job
Like the new intro! I've never seen the posts go in anything but first, but it looks like it worked out well!
Thanks for watching. I feel like it's easier to hang them into concrete
Checking level from the bottom of the boards? That surprised me. Normally I would want to be sure the top is level and boards are flush to each other. That is, after-all, where the floor actually is installed.
Since you would normally frame with crowns facing up you will have a hard time checking level from the top.
Is that a baby snake @ 7:35 thru 7:37? By the second hole about a foot from it. It slithers a few feet, curls up and even appears to strike.
I don't remember seeing a snake, but, it's been awhile since that job, so, it could be one. Thanks for watching
Any materials list? I'm looking to same size project with almost identical roof situation. Thanks !
Sorry, but, no I don't have the materials list available. Thanks for watching
Hey, I was just curious why you didn't use Sakrete Concrete Tube on this project? This is a project I am thinking about adding on my deck so thanks for any comment.
I would always recommend doing it that way for longevity of the posts. The customer wanted to save costs as much as possible and didn't see the need for footers to grade. Best method is definitely footers to grade and simpson post brackets to set posts off the concrete. Hope you deck project works out great. Thanks for watching
Would this survive a long time??? And can you use 2x6 for the joists in the square
Why didn't you cut out a slot in the 4x4 going in the ground and let it continue up to be the post for the hand rail also? It would be alot stronger that way.
If the 4 x 4 is supporting a beam than it will be the same size as the 4 x 4 and notching will not work. Thanks for watching
How big was this? I'm doing one similar but free standing 20x12. Is 9 6x6 post cemented in ground sufficient ?
It was 20ft x 13ft. I only used 3 on the one side, so, would think that you could use 6 and be fine. I would be most concerned about shear bracing on the posts (angled pieces towards the top of the post) since it will be free standing. You could pull up a deck guide for your local area to see how they detail it to be done because that's one way to pass code for deck posts. Hope that helps you. Thanks for watching
Also a tip I would plan for the width to be just under 20ft because the longest decking you can get is 20ft in length. Otherwise you will need to stagger you pieces and have seems in the field.
Doesn't the concrete eat away at the posts over time? I thought the proper way of doing this was to use a sonotube and insert a mounting bolt and a bracket on top of that for holding the post so the concrete doesn't eat up the post. But I am no carpenter, so correct me if I'm wrong.
You're not wrong. That would be the best way of doing footer with wood post. The homeowner was looking to save on costs and also felt it was not needed for this project. Thanks for watching
@@horstcarpentry
No problem... I was watching because I am getting ready to do a very similar thing to my house.. My only question is, would it be a good idea or possible to just run the 6x6 posts all the way up as to support the roof? I'm not sure what you've done yet as I've only watched your first video.. I am a BAS controls technician/electrician by trade, I am rather weak at carpentry. Lol
No worries. You only need the 6 x 6 to support the beam under the deck or in this case a rim beam on the end of the deck. A 4 x 4 can support the beams above which are supporting the roof. Most important thing is to remember that all loads must stack. Meaning your posts which support the roof should be on top of your 6 x 6s which support your beam. This allows the load to transfer all the way down to the footers. Thanks again
Would a concrete footer on 4 sides with 4x4 studs on the house side be over kill? I live in Florida. It's all sand no bed rock?
Problem is that usually the soils near the house are disturbed. You would have to dig down until you hit undisturbed soil, possibly to the bottom of the footers of the basement (5ft deep?). That's usually the hardest part of using an inside beam. Soils around here are mostly red clay but some areas are more sandy.
@@horstcarpentry Ok LOL I didn't inform you that I'm talking about a house 70' house trailer. (Whoops) So with your info, I will stud it on the house side. Plz don't throw your hammer at me. I'm old and I'll break :o)
No worries. Will need a beam supported by 6 x 6 posts and shouldn't have any problems.
@@horstcarpentry Thanks for that, I'm passing you on to another friend. Chuck
I don't think you can put the ledger board into bricks. And you didn't flash the ledger board.
You are correct that code states you cannot ledge to a brick facade. I let the homeowner know that we would need a second beam to support the house side. The footers for this beam would need to be at the house footer depth to get to virgin soil. The homeowner decided against this and said just ledge to the house. I can only do the job that my customer wants me to do. Thanks for watching and commenting
@@horstcarpentry you can tell the owner to hire someone else instead of taking on the liability and possibly negative reputation when it fails and he blames you.
Yes....I could've done that, but, this is someone I know personally and chose to do the job.
Hi ,can this method be used to make a 12x20 room addition and instead of deck board sub floor panels also the post free stand when adding concrte correct.
If your house has a brick exterior than you would need to install an additional beam towards the house unlike what I did here. They're a bunch of different ways to "attach" to the house you really need to do some research into your local building code. Thanks for watching
@@horstcarpentry actually I have mobile home and am not planning to attach to home so wanted to make deck like floor close to home.
If it is free standing then that is fine. I usually still attach a ledge, that isnt structural, to the house just to secure it. Everyone has their own opinion about what they like to do so mine is just one of many you will find. Thanks again
So do you not have to put flashing on it between the wood and brick?
Pressure treated lumber doesn't need anything between the lumber and brick. Normally would flash on top of the ledge and that's all. At least with the porch being enclosed it really minimizes any water entry
What was your materials list? Id love to see what materials you used if possible! Thanks
Too long to list here but costs was $7500 roughly. Hope that helps and thanks for watching
How deep were holes made?
In my area the footer depth is 30" minimum. Thanks for watching
Странный способ строительства: сверху вниз. Обычно наоборот, с фундамента начинают. Столбы, кроме пропитки, ничем от гниения не защитил. Стыки висят на саморезах. Вот тачка - классная.
Спасибо за просмотр
If you don't mind what was your labor cost?
Sorry, but, I don't like to give that kinda stuff out. But, rule of thumb is usually triple materials to get a price for something.... I don't charge that much though.
Where are you located?
Central MD near Baltimore
I live in Raleigh North Carolina. How much do you think it would cost for a 14X 14 screened in porch?
It's hard for me to gauge the labor rates down there, but, I can say the materials were around $7500 for this project. Normally alot of contractors triple the material cost, so, use that as a gauge of price. Also, alot depends on the type of finishing and different materials as well. If I did a different screening system it would've been less expensive by maybe $800 or so. There's alot to factor into the price. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Thanks for watching
What size rim did you use?
Double 2 x 10
No joist hangers?...
I like to install them after I complete the framing. Thanks for watching
Please reply Horst
duh! measure twice or four times and dont screw up.