I may be wrong but if you read the scope of the IBC, in chapter 1, it basically says that the exception is one-and-two family dwellings no higher than 3 stories above grade and that you should refer to the IRC (International Residential Code) for these residential homes.
This video needs to be updated. The 120 SQ FT room requirement has been removed in IRC 2017. The egress window needs to have a 5 SQ FT of actual opening, in addition to the dimensions mentioned in the video.
I am renting and I’ve had two windows in the kitchen replaced by the tenants due to it being a fire hazard. It was one of those with the cranks and it wouldn’t open fully. Some of the windows in the living room don’t open and if they do it’s a few inches. There is also airflow because heating and cooling in the house is terrible. These are some seriously old windows with the framings damaged. Would this be considered hazardous?
The only windows you need properly functioning are the windows in the bedrooms that are specifically for egress. And those windows are to act as additional escape routes if needed or entry areas for rescue services. Now, each city can opt to add additional safety measures and requirements for their windows in multi family structures or rental properties. If that’s the case, I’d recommend you contact your local building and safety, and inquire about this directly to them. If the windows are not functioning properly, and they are rotted and not energy efficient, then it will cost more in your energy bill and continue to deteriorate the structure. Water will penetrate and cause damage to the Home further, which can cause health and safety violations. It’s always good to maintain properly functioning windows and keep them in good working order specially if it’s a rental property and people are living in it. But like I said, for some additional facts, I would contact with Local building and safety. Hope that helps
That is a great question. Yes, that is OK. Not necessary to have a back door as long as you have an entry and one window that meets egress in the living areas like bedrooms. If it’s a studio then that would be considered basically a bedroom so one window in the room would have to meet egress, but not necessary to have a backdoor.
I have a question regarding Installation of insulation. I had a house burn down and the original contractor took off with an additional $100000 I did know about but that's another story. I had most of the insulation put in before they changed the R value codes for 2019.It is a one story Cape in Massachusetts. I originally had unfaced insulation put up over all the rooms. I know I now need a vapor barrier and I need to increase the R value by adding more on top. The to insulation companies I had come in wanted to remove everything that was their put up faced insulation, And then add what I had already there on top. To me, the easier solution would be to staple a thick layer of plastic to the lathe And then just add more installation on top, without pulling anything out. So far no one has been able to tell me if this will pass code. My building inspector is very precise and by the book, In fact I've been told this town is one of the hardest to build in Massachusetts. Does this sound like something that will work? Pulling it up from the attic and essentially doing it over is going to be a lot of work and a lot of mess. Does this sound reasonable to you? Thank you kindly for your answer.
Hi geckomom74, That is a good question. Most companies will not install over existing work. That may be why you are getting that from the vendors you are bringing to you house.If you want to do it yourself DIY. Then i recommend you call your local building inspector the one for your project and ask if the method you want to do to fix the problem is going to pass inspection ? Also is up to code. Most inspectors are very willing to help out if you just ask.. Sounds like it should be just fine all codes very per district and zone. Best thing would be to call inspector.You can call building and safety give them your permit number they should be abel to give you inspector info.. Hope that helps good luck on your project and thanks for the comment...
Very very good question we don’t have a tremendous amount of experience with basement work. But what we do understand is that if it’s not going to be rented out or habitable space if it’s just a gaming room or used for laundry room and storage you’ll be OK at 7 foot. You can also contact your building and safety department in your local area and ask the planning department if that will comply some residential zones use other building codes to comply with certain situations. So always good to check with them in your local area. You can even contact a local structural engineer in your region and they should be able to answer that for you as well. Hope that helps you out thanks for watching👍😎
One thing you should disclose is that all the dimensions you stated may not be in old homes and are grandfathered depending when constructed ! Had people tell me about how the apartment building I have was illegal because of this video! The building was built in 1935 with no changes other then mechanical updates and beautification!
Do you know about outside air ventilation through an apartment living room window with the kitchen as the adjoining room in a building 8 stories? My 4th floor apartment living room window was restricted to only open 4 inches because on inspection it was deemed a fall hazard and now it's a ventilation hazard. I live in Washington state. I don't understand why the window isn't band from use in apartments that are two stories or more rather than allowing the window to stay and cutting off the outside air to the living room and adjoining rooms. Does anyone have any advice or information on this subject other than get a fan. Thank you from Senior in Seattle
That is a very very good question. I’ve seen in some situations where the inspector will overrule the original design and things like this will happen. Of course the inspector does this because of safety issues and code regulations. If the builder decides just to keep the same windows but put a governor to only allowed to open 4 inches that’s on the builder designer and developers dollar so they like to keep the cost low. But what you can do if you’re the developer or the contractor or designer is install a window with a upper louver vent which allows airflow to go into the bottom section and top section of the windows and it still complies with the regulations they’re pointing out. But of course they would have to switch the all the windows out that’s maybe why they keep cost down and stick to the original windows which is understandable in most situations. You may be able to get a little air conditioner that sits in your unit and attaches to the open section of your window and can bring in cooler air that way and help with airflow. If you do get one of those air conditioners that just sits on your floor and there’s a tube that goes to the window make sure you put a little drip pan below it because sometimes they create moisture and can ruin your flooring just an FYI. Well I really hope this helps you out and gives you a better idea on your situation. Thanks for the comment and remember to subscribe and give us a like on this video if you feel like it. Take care👍😎
If I have 12 feet of window space is there a functional difference between 4 3 ft Windows 3 4 ft Windows? I realize there's more framing which will be wasted space. 12 ft is not accurate I'm just making a general question here. Wondering if a crank out window that's 4 ft is just too big to catch the wind like a sail? In theory fewer dividers would make a cleaner looking window. What's the Practical side?
Great question, definitely more framing involved for the additional windows that being said as long as your 12 foot opening is framed with a structural LVL or I-beam as a header to carry that Span for the opening. If so then definitely a cleaner look would be one single window but if it’s not a fixed panel and you wanted moving parts in the window you may need to break it up into a few sections for the windows structural integrity itself. That would be something you would bring up with the manufacturer and go over design with them regarding that. I fixed window may be less expensive but you have no function in the window it’s fixed. As far as a casement window definitely will catch the wind and those have to be thought about properly depending on location. If they swing out into a walkway or a pathway that could be an issue. Really there’s a bunch of different options you can go with I recommend sitting down with a window designer and thinking it through. 👍😎
Crank window really suck when you have two or more side by side you won't get much airflow. Also if the wind isn't blowing towards the opening you won't get air.
It is In the case of a emergency. If the one door you have to leave has a fire 🔥 on the other side or is blocked you can escape from somewhere else or someone can rescue you. Thanks for watching 😎👍🏻🔨
@@co-know-proconstructiontips So many people don't understand this but it really is that simple. When a fire starts it does not start in 2 separate areas. It starts in 1 area, and if that area is the main door then you obviously can't get out. It's also why exits need to be >50% of the diagonal distance of a building. So that a large fire cannot cover both exits.
When speaking about emergency egress, I found it interesting that you used a living room as an example. I thought egress was only required in sleeping spaces. Or is that a fallacy of mine?
Emergency egress required in each sleeping room. Residential homes only need one means of egress often the front door. There is a difference between egress and emergency egress.
Door height min 6'8" or 80" is about 2 meters 20" is about half a meter, so the window opening is about .5m x.5m 120sq ft is about 11 sq meters, 70sq ft bedroom min about 6.5 sq meters 3' clear is almost 1meter Door kmob height: 34" is .86 meters and 48" is 1.2meters Hope that helps
@@cornpop7805 if you expect people to do calculations with fractions while simultaneously following a video full of new information in a foreign language, maybe your understanding of others isn't developed well enough to be telling anyone what they should or shouldn't do with their lives.
@@daan8336 Pro tips: Take notes, pause the video as needed, rewatch parts of the video as needed, write down the numbers and convert them later, don't expect other people to do the math for you. There are no shortage of online converters, but because it's you, I've included a link to one of them below. www.csgnetwork.com/csgcvtftin2meterscalc.html
In Florida is it possible to frame a house so strong that you don't need sheathing? Also, are custom Lexan windows allowed? I've had these questions on a small house build idea: ruclips.net/video/G-Kq97fYDuo/видео.html
Those are some really great questions. As far as the size of the structure you would like to build 20 x 40 with no partition walls with no beam supports to carry the roof load you may have to use LVL Joyce as your roof rafters to carry that load over the 20 foot span from wall to wall. You can call an LVL manufacturer to get span schedules. As far as the roof goes you’re gonna need to cover your roof rafters with some kind of substrate for the shingles or torch down to apply to. If you don’t want to use plywood or OSB you’re gonna need to use at least a one by six to cover your whole roof with. With 1/4 inch gap in between planks for expansion that can get really pricey versus the plywood up to you. As far as your exterior walls for a structure that big with no interior partition walls to keep the structure from racking in Highwinds. You may have to at least sheer panel two walls to give you that sheer value. You can do cross bracing I’ve even seen cable bracing as well from corner to corner install half inch cables with tensioner‘s in an X pattern to keep your structure from racking. That does look really cool but also can be pricey. We are based out of California and the codes in Florida may vary. I recommend you calling the planning department in your local region - building and Safety and ask them these very same questions. Or a local engineer that can give you a consultation they should be able to answer all of these questions for you. Regarding the egress, if the structure is just one room and you only need two forms of egress so the two doors should comply as long as there’s no partition walls. Regarding the plexi glass type windows you would like to use sounds like you’re going to basically make your own fixed windows with frames silicone window stop and then the plexiglass type material. The only thing I see with that being a problem is energy efficiency again you may have to check with your local code. Out here in California our windows have to have a UV index of a certain number for insulation and heat transfer. If that glass you’re proposing to use complies under those local guidelines in your region then you should be able to use them. Again very great questions. On my projects out here in California if I have a client contact me about these certain issues I contact my engineer and I go over that stuff with them to make sure we comply with everything we needed regarding structure and safety. When it comes to energy efficiency and my engineer can’t answer the question which they normally can. Then I do call the planning department in the local building and safety in the town I’m building in. There are so many things that can change everything. Like are you in a Highwind area Or a high fire area certain things will count as far as how they design structures in those regions. So it’s hard for me to give you a definitive answer on all that stuff but I hope what I did give you helps. Good luck on your project 👍😎
The Taping looks good on that window wall , looks like he pulled the box on the corner bead ,not good though. My tent passes fire test which goes good with my cap & Ball . Hippie Politicians more drugs & prisons please. Build that Pyramid.
Uugh. I want to build an Audio Mastering Building one day, but I don't want a Window in there, but instead, just great ventalation ( and of course a door ) >_< Stupid Codes and safety! Haha
That sounds cool Justin. You don’t have to add any windows if you have two doors. And if it’s commercial, codes are different. You may be able to do exactly what you want to do. Unless you’re converting a bedroom into a sound room. Then these codes will apply for sure.
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The IBC code is for commercial construction while the IRC is for residential.
Right and in California you would be using the California Residential Code (CRC) based on the IRC with plenty of changes,Lol.
Lol
In California we use a combination of UBC IRC, CRC, depending on what’s being built different codes will apply and can be used.
Great video on this topic, code regulation is a very important topic that needs to be discussed more.
Absolutely well said, thanks for watching.
I may be wrong but if you read the scope of the IBC, in chapter 1, it basically says that the exception is one-and-two family dwellings no higher than 3 stories above grade and that you should refer to the IRC (International Residential Code) for these residential homes.
Nice video
Thank you 👍😎
This video needs to be updated. The 120 SQ FT room requirement has been removed in IRC 2017. The egress window needs to have a 5 SQ FT of actual opening, in addition to the dimensions mentioned in the video.
We have lots of new updates. Here in Ohio we still use 2012 IRC lmao.
Informative video. Can i refer you to a new business directory to post your video? No charge
I am renting and I’ve had two windows in the kitchen replaced by the tenants due to it being a fire hazard. It was one of those with the cranks and it wouldn’t open fully. Some of the windows in the living room don’t open and if they do it’s a few inches. There is also airflow because heating and cooling in the house is terrible. These are some seriously old windows with the framings damaged. Would this be considered hazardous?
The only windows you need properly functioning are the windows in the bedrooms that are specifically for egress. And those windows are to act as additional escape routes if needed or entry areas for rescue services.
Now, each city can opt to add additional safety measures and requirements for their windows in multi family structures or rental properties. If that’s the case, I’d recommend you contact your local building and safety, and inquire about this directly to them.
If the windows are not functioning properly, and they are rotted and not energy efficient, then it will cost more in your energy bill and continue to deteriorate the structure. Water will penetrate and cause damage to the Home further, which can cause health and safety violations. It’s always good to maintain properly functioning windows and keep them in good working order specially if it’s a rental property and people are living in it.
But like I said, for some additional facts, I would contact with Local building and safety. Hope that helps
@@co-know-proconstructiontips This helps and thank you for taking the time to respond. I’ll check in with local and building safety.
Great video CoKnowPro!
Thanks so much Valphyr :-}
Thank you so much
You're most welcome
Thank you
You're welcome
Does a house require a front/rear door if you have a front door and a window egress in a common living area?
That is a great question. Yes, that is OK. Not necessary to have a back door as long as you have an entry and one window that meets egress in the living areas like bedrooms.
If it’s a studio then that would be considered basically a bedroom so one window in the room would have to meet egress, but not necessary to have a backdoor.
I have a question regarding Installation of insulation. I had a house burn down and the original contractor took off with an additional $100000 I did know about but that's another story. I had most of the insulation put in before they changed the R value codes for 2019.It is a one story Cape in Massachusetts. I originally had unfaced insulation put up over all the rooms. I know I now need a vapor barrier and I need to increase the R value by adding more on top. The to insulation companies I had come in wanted to remove everything that was their put up faced insulation, And then add what I had already there on top. To me, the easier solution would be to staple a thick layer of plastic to the lathe And then just add more installation on top, without pulling anything out. So far no one has been able to tell me if this will pass code. My building inspector is very precise and by the book, In fact I've been told this town is one of the hardest to build in Massachusetts. Does this sound like something that will work? Pulling it up from the attic and essentially doing it over is going to be a lot of work and a lot of mess. Does this sound reasonable to you? Thank you kindly for your answer.
Hi geckomom74, That is a good question. Most companies will not install over existing work. That may be why you are getting that from the vendors you are bringing to you house.If you want to do it yourself DIY. Then i recommend you call your local building inspector the one for your project and ask if the method you want to do to fix the problem is going to pass inspection ? Also is up to code. Most inspectors are very willing to help out if you just ask.. Sounds like it should be just fine all codes very per district and zone. Best thing would be to call inspector.You can call building and safety give them your permit number they should be abel to give you inspector info.. Hope that helps good luck on your project and thanks for the comment...
Does this apply to each individual room? Can bathrooms no longer have those tiny raised windows? What about kitchens? Counters in the way.
Dose not apply to bathrooms or kitchens only bedrooms needs egress. Thanks for watching
Can we have more references about lintel cantilever slab slabs floor wall tolerances extra l.
thanks love it. are you posting changes per 2019 building code.
Thanks for the comment.We will be posting new vids on code changes of 2019 subscribe so you don't miss them..Thanks Juan...
What if a basement drop ceiling cannot go above 7’ because of duct pipes ., all the ducts need to be moved?
Very very good question we don’t have a tremendous amount of experience with basement work. But what we do understand is that if it’s not going to be rented out or habitable space if it’s just a gaming room or used for laundry room and storage you’ll be OK at 7 foot. You can also contact your building and safety department in your local area and ask the planning department if that will comply some residential zones use other building codes to comply with certain situations. So always good to check with them in your local area.
You can even contact a local structural engineer in your region and they should be able to answer that for you as well. Hope that helps you out thanks for watching👍😎
One thing you should disclose is that all the dimensions you stated may not be in old homes and are grandfathered depending when constructed ! Had people tell me about how the apartment building I have was illegal because of this video! The building was built in 1935 with no changes other then mechanical updates and beautification!
Thank you for the feedback👍
Paid a lot of money for cic exam in va. It sounds Chinese to me. Your way of education is more clear. Thanks
Thank you for that awesome comment. 👍🏻😎🔨
Do you know about outside air ventilation through an apartment living room window with the kitchen as the adjoining room in a building 8 stories?
My 4th floor apartment living room window was restricted to only open 4 inches because on inspection it was deemed a fall hazard and now it's a ventilation hazard. I live in Washington state. I don't understand why the window isn't band from use in apartments that are two stories or more rather than allowing the window to stay and cutting off the outside air to the living room and adjoining rooms. Does anyone have any advice or information on this subject other than get a fan.
Thank you from Senior in Seattle
That is a very very good question. I’ve seen in some situations where the inspector will overrule the original design and things like this will happen. Of course the inspector does this because of safety issues and code regulations. If the builder decides just to keep the same windows but put a governor to only allowed to open 4 inches that’s on the builder designer and developers dollar so they like to keep the cost low. But what you can do if you’re the developer or the contractor or designer is install a window with a upper louver vent which allows airflow to go into the bottom section and top section of the windows and it still complies with the regulations they’re pointing out.
But of course they would have to switch the all the windows out that’s maybe why they keep cost down and stick to the original windows which is understandable in most situations.
You may be able to get a little air conditioner that sits in your unit and attaches to the open section of your window and can bring in cooler air that way and help with airflow.
If you do get one of those air conditioners that just sits on your floor and there’s a tube that goes to the window make sure you put a little drip pan below it because sometimes they create moisture and can ruin your flooring just an FYI.
Well I really hope this helps you out and gives you a better idea on your situation. Thanks for the comment and remember to subscribe and give us a like on this video if you feel like it. Take care👍😎
If I have 12 feet of window space is there a functional difference between 4 3 ft Windows 3 4 ft Windows? I realize there's more framing which will be wasted space. 12 ft is not accurate I'm just making a general question here. Wondering if a crank out window that's 4 ft is just too big to catch the wind like a sail? In theory fewer dividers would make a cleaner looking window. What's the Practical side?
Great question, definitely more framing involved for the additional windows that being said as long as your 12 foot opening is framed with a structural LVL or I-beam as a header to carry that Span for the opening. If so then definitely a cleaner look would be one single window but if it’s not a fixed panel and you wanted moving parts in the window you may need to break it up into a few sections for the windows structural integrity itself. That would be something you would bring up with the manufacturer and go over design with them regarding that. I fixed window may be less expensive but you have no function in the window it’s fixed.
As far as a casement window definitely will catch the wind and those have to be thought about properly depending on location. If they swing out into a walkway or a pathway that could be an issue. Really there’s a bunch of different options you can go with I recommend sitting down with a window designer and thinking it through. 👍😎
Crank window really suck when you have two or more side by side you won't get much airflow. Also if the wind isn't blowing towards the opening you won't get air.
With crank windows you can not use window fans or ac unit. Wich is a huge problem if you don't have forced ac or mini splits.
Am 5 foot inches tall
And I weight 300lbs
Thank you very much for the explanation and examples, do you where I can search for a short notes version of the necessary building codes?
You can order order online. Just do a search online. Thanks for the comment 👍🏻🔨😎
why do i need a second means direct to the outside?
It is In the case of a emergency. If the one door you have to leave has a fire 🔥 on the other side or is blocked you can escape from somewhere else or someone can rescue you. Thanks for watching 😎👍🏻🔨
@@co-know-proconstructiontips So many people don't understand this but it really is that simple. When a fire starts it does not start in 2 separate areas. It starts in 1 area, and if that area is the main door then you obviously can't get out. It's also why exits need to be >50% of the diagonal distance of a building. So that a large fire cannot cover both exits.
When speaking about emergency egress, I found it interesting that you used a living room as an example. I thought egress was only required in sleeping spaces. Or is that a fallacy of mine?
required in EVERY room.
Bathrooms?
You are very correct only shot I had of a window. Egress is for bedrooms only thanks for the comment sorry for the confusion. 😎👍
Emergency egress required in each sleeping room. Residential homes only need one means of egress often the front door. There is a difference between egress and emergency egress.
Is a there limit on how tall you can build a house? Im planing on building a narrow house with 5 floors
Consult with an architect or engineer in your local jurisdiction.🔨👍🏻😎
Great video outlining the general codes, but it's really hard to follow the measurements for anyone outside the US. Bummer.
Door height min 6'8" or 80" is about 2 meters
20" is about half a meter, so the window opening is about .5m x.5m
120sq ft is about 11 sq meters, 70sq ft bedroom min about 6.5 sq meters
3' clear is almost 1meter
Door kmob height: 34" is .86 meters and 48" is 1.2meters
Hope that helps
Really hard? If you can't do the simple math to convert, you shouldn't engage in ANYTHING technical.
@@CoronaTheVirus thank you!
@@cornpop7805 if you expect people to do calculations with fractions while simultaneously following a video full of new information in a foreign language, maybe your understanding of others isn't developed well enough to be telling anyone what they should or shouldn't do with their lives.
@@daan8336
Pro tips: Take notes, pause the video as needed, rewatch parts of the video as needed, write down the numbers and convert them later, don't expect other people to do the math for you. There are no shortage of online converters, but because it's you, I've included a link to one of them below.
www.csgnetwork.com/csgcvtftin2meterscalc.html
In Florida is it possible to frame a house so strong that you don't need sheathing? Also, are custom Lexan windows allowed? I've had these questions on a small house build idea: ruclips.net/video/G-Kq97fYDuo/видео.html
Those are some really great questions. As far as the size of the structure you would like to build 20 x 40 with no partition walls with no beam supports to carry the roof load you may have to use LVL Joyce as your roof rafters to carry that load over the 20 foot span from wall to wall.
You can call an LVL manufacturer to get span schedules.
As far as the roof goes you’re gonna need to cover your roof rafters with some kind of substrate for the shingles or torch down to apply to. If you don’t want to use plywood or OSB you’re gonna need to use at least a one by six to cover your whole roof with. With 1/4 inch gap in between planks for expansion that can get really pricey versus the plywood up to you. As far as your exterior walls for a structure that big with no interior partition walls to keep the structure from racking in Highwinds. You may have to at least sheer panel two walls to give you that sheer value.
You can do cross bracing I’ve even seen cable bracing as well from corner to corner install half inch cables with tensioner‘s in an X pattern to keep your structure from racking. That does look really cool but also can be pricey. We are based out of California and the codes in Florida may vary. I recommend you calling the planning department in your local region - building and Safety and ask them these very same questions. Or a local engineer that can give you a consultation they should be able to answer all of these questions for you.
Regarding the egress, if the structure is just one room and you only need two forms of egress so the two doors should comply as long as there’s no partition walls. Regarding the plexi glass type windows you would like to use sounds like you’re going to basically make your own fixed windows with frames silicone window stop and then the plexiglass type material. The only thing I see with that being a problem is energy efficiency again you may have to check with your local code. Out here in California our windows have to have a UV index of a certain number for insulation and heat transfer. If that glass you’re proposing to use complies under those local guidelines in your region then you should be able to use them.
Again very great questions. On my projects out here in California if I have a client contact me about these certain issues I contact my engineer and I go over that stuff with them to make sure we comply with everything we needed regarding structure and safety. When it comes to energy efficiency and my engineer can’t answer the question which they normally can. Then I do call the planning department in the local building and safety in the town I’m building in. There are so many things that can change everything. Like are you in a Highwind area Or a high fire area certain things will count as far as how they design structures in those regions. So it’s hard for me to give you a definitive answer on all that stuff but I hope what I did give you helps. Good luck on your project 👍😎
@@co-know-proconstructiontips Thank You very very much for that. much appreciated it!
Absolutely our pleasure you are very welcome 👍😎
The Taping looks good on that window wall , looks like he pulled the box on the corner bead ,not good
though. My tent passes fire test which goes good with my cap & Ball . Hippie Politicians more drugs
& prisons please. Build that Pyramid.
Thanks blue sky 777 sounds like you’ve been watching some dahboo 777 all good 😊
Sir what is California building code rules plz fast reply
Bharat lavanshi They are codes for building and safety standards there are IRC codes and UBC codes.
There are IRC and UBC codes witch are the building and safety standards for commercial and residential construction......
Seriously? Please fast reply? Entitled much?
Uugh. I want to build an Audio Mastering Building one day, but I don't want a Window in there, but instead, just great ventalation ( and of course a door ) >_<
Stupid Codes and safety! Haha
That sounds cool Justin. You don’t have to add any windows if you have two doors. And if it’s commercial, codes are different. You may be able to do exactly what you want to do. Unless you’re converting a bedroom into a sound room. Then these codes will apply for sure.
@@co-know-proconstructiontips oh :O there is some hope! Haha. I live in Florida, Orlando side
I will check up the codes there ^_^
Two doors?