Great they put a turret board 👍 I built a TAD Princeton reverb kit years ago. The board was with eyelet. Now everything is bent and warped with heat and humidity. I have to rebuild it wit turret.
Oh man, thank you SO much! I took the class and built a 5e3,which was awesome! So I ordered the Brit 50 and opened it up and got scared because no manual lol. This will be a massive help!
Hi there. Let me give you a tip. Next time go with the back side jumper cables. Do not get me wrong it is not more noisy or worse going the top side. Electrically it does not matter. But it is easier for you and it makes things look way cleaner. If you look at the original Fender amplifiers with the eyelet boards and Marshall amplifiers with the turret boards you will see that they always go with the jumper cables on the bottom side. Turret has 3 places that you can use to connect things to it. Bottom on the top and on the bottom as well as the barrel. Actually it is possible to connect two parts to a barrel but that does not matter. You can use any of those places to connect what you need to connect to them. So hole on the bottom side is legal connection point as well. What makes the difference is that when you connect jumper cables on the bottom side you leave more space to connect the other parts to that turret. It is easier to make and looks cleaner afterwards. Now most of the times those jumping cables are diverse stages of the B plus. So they do carry high DC voltage so you want to be sure they will not de-solder and touch the chassis. Thing with building amplifiers is that in the beginning it is easy to make things look neat. But with every single compromise it starts looking less neat very fast. There are so many wires and parts that it quickly can start looking like a birds nest. Sometimes you can't do to much. But if you make sure that every stepp is looking neat and make sure that next thing is looking neat will bring you to a point where all amplifier looks neat. When you build first amplifiers you have to make sure every soldering connection is bulletproof. You want to have good mechanical connection so that solder tin is not a glue holding it together. Soldering tin is not providing the mechanical support. Better said it should not be providing the mechanical support. This priority leaves looks as second or totally non important thing. Though neat layout and short as possible wires do make difference. Not only that it looks better but overall there is less length of wires to act as antenna. Those are just last few percent of lower noise floor but it makes some difference. Some wires must have some length reserve or you will not be able to lift a board. But you want to prevent un necessary lengths of wire. Every following amplifier is easier to make and will look neater. Enjoy building them.
Thank you for the detailed advice! I really appreciate the tips on using the backside for jumper cables to keep things neat and organized. I'll definitely consider this approach for future builds. Your insights on the importance of mechanical connections and keeping wires short are also very helpful. It's great to learn from experienced builders like you. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
Hi 331b7, I built my previous amp like that and it’s really quiet. I guess it’s possible. Also, the leads are clean b+ voltage and it shouldn’t induce noise. Thank you for the heads up, I will keep that in mind if the amp comes out noisy. I will for sure look into it. Thanks again.
Great they put a turret board 👍
I built a TAD Princeton reverb kit years ago. The board was with eyelet. Now everything is bent and warped with heat and humidity. I have to rebuild it wit turret.
Oh man, thank you SO much! I took the class and built a 5e3,which was awesome! So I ordered the Brit 50 and opened it up and got scared because no manual lol. This will be a massive help!
Good luck with the build. Glad my video will help you on the process!!
Я подписался на ваш канал очень здорово!
Очень хочется побольше таких видео !
Желаю вам удачи и успехов !
Hi there. Let me give you a tip. Next time go with the back side jumper cables. Do not get me wrong it is not more noisy or worse going the top side. Electrically it does not matter. But it is easier for you and it makes things look way cleaner. If you look at the original Fender amplifiers with the eyelet boards and Marshall amplifiers with the turret boards you will see that they always go with the jumper cables on the bottom side. Turret has 3 places that you can use to connect things to it. Bottom on the top and on the bottom as well as the barrel. Actually it is possible to connect two parts to a barrel but that does not matter. You can use any of those places to connect what you need to connect to them. So hole on the bottom side is legal connection point as well.
What makes the difference is that when you connect jumper cables on the bottom side you leave more space to connect the other parts to that turret. It is easier to make and looks cleaner afterwards.
Now most of the times those jumping cables are diverse stages of the B plus. So they do carry high DC voltage so you want to be sure they will not de-solder and touch the chassis.
Thing with building amplifiers is that in the beginning it is easy to make things look neat. But with every single compromise it starts looking less neat very fast. There are so many wires and parts that it quickly can start looking like a birds nest.
Sometimes you can't do to much. But if you make sure that every stepp is looking neat and make sure that next thing is looking neat will bring you to a point where all amplifier looks neat.
When you build first amplifiers you have to make sure every soldering connection is bulletproof. You want to have good mechanical connection so that solder tin is not a glue holding it together. Soldering tin is not providing the mechanical support. Better said it should not be providing the mechanical support.
This priority leaves looks as second or totally non important thing.
Though neat layout and short as possible wires do make difference. Not only that it looks better but overall there is less length of wires to act as antenna. Those are just last few percent of lower noise floor but it makes some difference.
Some wires must have some length reserve or you will not be able to lift a board. But you want to prevent un necessary lengths of wire.
Every following amplifier is easier to make and will look neater. Enjoy building them.
Thank you for the detailed advice! I really appreciate the tips on using the backside for jumper cables to keep things neat and organized. I'll definitely consider this approach for future builds. Your insights on the importance of mechanical connections and keeping wires short are also very helpful. It's great to learn from experienced builders like you. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
I'm getting ready to do my first build with the Mojotone British Style 50W kit and this is very helpful... Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! I hope it comes out great!!! Good luck!!!
Are you sure that running those leads on top of the board instead of behind doesn’t create any noise?
Hi 331b7, I built my previous amp like that and it’s really quiet. I guess it’s possible. Also, the leads are clean b+ voltage and it shouldn’t induce noise. Thank you for the heads up, I will keep that in mind if the amp comes out noisy. I will for sure look into it. Thanks again.
I thought the same… but the pics on the Mojotone site show them on top too.