I should have seen this a year ago, when I brought an Adler-199 from 1955 back to life. I had to find out most of this on my own. Everybody told me, that the most important part would be patience. And although I‘m more of an impatient person, I agree: Give the stuff time to enter whatever dirt to dissolve it, and it‘ll spare you a lot of muscle work. I found that cotton make-up remover pads come in very handy, because they don’t fray as much as cotton balls. And I learned one more thing: In doubt what a special type of cleaner will do to your vintage sewing machine, I try to avoid using anything, that didn’t exist when the machine was built. Another thing: Never toss old toothbrushes. They do an awesome job in creases, I even used the electrical toothbrush with a very soft brush on it - great timesaver.
Good idea for testing the back of the plate. I bought some GoJo original hand cleaner without pumice and I'm thing to try it. The sewing machine oil just isn't cutting the 139 year old grime. I did use coconut oil and to my surprise, performed very well. I read to clean Mother-of-Pearl with coconut oil and use white wax after and to buff with silk. I don't think I own any silk since I cannot stand wearing it, but the coconut oil worked well. I'm going to test the GoJo on my 1927 sphinx model 127 since the decals are pretty much worn in certain places anyway and I'm not as attached to that machine as I am my 1882 New Family Model 12 fiddle bed. i did use the coconut oil on the 1882 Mother-of-Pearl decals that remained and the outcome is simply amazing! I don't think the 1882 has much shellac remained so I'm trying to tread lightly but the sewing machine oil just didn't perform on it. Great video, thank you for the information and testing. I haven't seen anyone else use coconut oil, I'm interested if that reacts with the shellac or lacquer finishes. 🤔 Thus far, I haven't noticed anything but shine.
I really appreciate that you emphasize which products to use, and you warn about choosing products that contain ingredients that could possibly damage a beloved vintage, or maybe a newer model. Thank You for sharing and caring enough to give many possibilities for success, and more than a subtle mention of those products that could/would cause damage.
The things I had been taught to use, Evapo-Rust for oxidation, it is very mild can be used for even very delicate parts like bobbin cases, and Blue Creeper for almost everything else, it is safe on lacquered and painted surfaces and fabulous for bare metal.
I have that exact same thing happen to me! I just look in my rearview mirror and what do you know, there is a treadle machine in the back of my car! amazing how that happens. ;)
I've only been followed by one treadle, but I stumbled across the Goodwill online auction site, and suddenly vintage machines were just showing up on my doorstep, like little lost lambs. 🤣
Funny how once you start picking up vintage machines, more follow behind. I decided to order one off ebay and next thing I know, someone offered me a free Kenmore from the 1950's with cabinet
@@ScarletRoseLayoska mine was a must accept, Kenmore 1947 sales slip and tune up record with it. Obviously my birthday machine. Then the Singer treadle bought in May 1912, my mother’s birthday! GoodWill $35 with all attachments, instruction book and extra needles and feet!
I have been watching your videos and trying to clean and restore a 1912 Singer Sphinx Treadle machine and it is coming out great. The metal parts that can't be removed are giving me the most trouble but I am very pleased with the results so far. Thank you for putting together such a helpful video.
Thank you for doing these cleaning videos. Picking up a Treadle sewing machine for my 91 y/o daddy tomorrow that needs cleaning before going delivery. I hope that it will look like the one that he learned how to sew on oh so many years ago. I'm not wanting to completely restore, just wanting to clean it and oil it and shine up the cabinet. This video will help a lot. Thank you again. ❤
Thanks for this. I followed your cleaning video for the lacquered body of the machine. It has come up a treat. Now I know what to use on the metal plates I'll get on with that after putting the undercarriage back together following videos 1 and 2. I'm in England but I'm sure I can find a suitable metal polish for all metals. I will test on the back first though. Thanks again.
I picked up a Damascus tredle machine that someone had tossed out to the road. It was grubby with dust and dirt and I wasn't sure how to clean it, not wanting to mess up the beautiful decals. I carefully wiped it down with some gentle formula make-up wipes. Most of the grub came off and it's georgus.
I just wanna say thank you for everything you’ve posted. I inherited an 1890s White VS3. The paint and decals were ruined long before i got it, so i’m not to worried about ruining that, but it’s nice knowing this stuff. I’m going to be refinishing it since restoring it is impossible. But using the oil to clean? Would have never thought about that. Thank you!
Pace, content, and length were fine for this beginner. Questions: any concerns about oil residue from cleaning damaging fabrics when sewing? And you briefly mentioned being careful with the sewing machine oil and the decals. Any risk of removing the decals? Thanks for these videos, they are exactly what I need!
Great and informative video! Thank you! What would you use to clean the metal plate that has the trademark. It looks like that cannot be removed from the sewing machine. Thank you!
Very informative video. I've had good luck on the bare metal and plated parts using Brasso. Has anyone else had experience with Brasso? Any tips or caveats would be welcome.
Nickel plating is virtually the same as chrome plating. Back in the day when this machine was built it was called "German Silver". It never had the durability we expect today.
I'm not sure what your opinion will be on this, but I used magic erasers on the metal parts of a garage-kept Singer 15-91. It worked great! The color went from yellowed, rustish, browned, or even somewhat blackened on some parts to a bright silver finish in almost all areas! (there was some pitting in some spots.) I'm using machine oil in the machine itself & it's working well so far. I wish we could attach photos on here.
Hi Angie. I've never used one on metal parts though I would be very cautious about using on paint finishes. Those pads are a lot more abrasive than they appear when holding in your hand. They can strip off more than you want them to so use but be real conservative with them.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Oh, I wouldn't dare use them on the paint! I've only used water & tissues (after a paint brush) to get the dust & dirt off & I've been using machine oil. It's looking great so far! I ONLY used the magic erasers on the METAL parts & they all look fantastic! Almost like brand new... Do you happen to have a good source for a motor belt for a 15-91? I bought one & it doesn't seem to fit correctly. My serial # is AG900738. Thanks in advance. :)
@@angiepierce8837 Hello Angie. Although most sewing machines use motor belts, the 15-91 is one of several Singer models that do not use belts. They have a direct drive motor that has a gear that connects to the hand wheel gear. Some people refer to these motors as "Potted Motors" though Singer did not use that name. If someone is trying to sell you a motor belt for a Singer 15-91, they are either uninformed or ethically challenged!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with such detail and enthusiasm. I want to revive an old family sewing machine from 1922, a Singer treadle, but don’t want to risk damaging it and your videos are very reassuring. It is very thoughtful and generous of you to take the time. I also have a question. What do you think of Hagerty silver and multimetal foam (says for silver, tin and steel) on the needle plate? It seems coated, has a bit flaky appearance... Should be nickel or chrome? For chrome I read that aluminium foil and water can be used to remove the oxidation... Any advice you may have is very appreciated.
Hi Paula. There is a pretty good chance that your plate is Nickel plated steel. I normally find that Silver polish is best reserved for Silver, but if you are using it on your plate with no ill effects, it should provide what you are seeking. FYI, always test it before using it on a large section.
Hi Loriann. Yes, some folks have had a lot of success with those. If people have them already, it could be a great tool. I have had good luck with polishes and so I personally would not purchase one solely for cleaning machine parts, but to each his or her own! Thank you for mentioning this.
If your working on something before ww1 is might be a shellac based lacquer paint. I wonder if french polishing might be a good way to restore an antique finish like this.
Me again. Thanks so much. I just want to ask about the light oxidation and grime and staining on the parts that can be removed. So the bobbin winder complex and bobbin mechanism. And the presser foot area. Do you remove all of them as some knobs are textured and hard to clean. Do you put them in a jewellery cleaner or in a liquid for a while? Or do you keep everything in situ. This is a renovation of a good 99k but I want to try and give it a good service and maximum clean. Thank you.
Hi. Excellent content. Do you have any tips on cleaning vintage attachments ie: sewing feet. I have recently bought a singer 66 and most of the attachments have rust on them. With thanks.
Hi Allison. I have a video under my "CLEANING SERIES" that shows techniques that would also work on attachments. Here is a link to one of those: ruclips.net/video/n0aWcLrnu90/видео.html
I can confirm as a person who works with metal parts in analytical instuments Mothers polish is amazing. However, it does not matter how clean you think it is the mothers will pull off dirt and oxidation forever........ you have to knkw when to say when
I use a liquid grease cleaner called PURPLE POWER for my machines(hardware store). Did not ruin the paint at all. Works like a champ. I use PURPLE POWER for all my grease stains around my house. MUST WARE PLASTIC GLOVES.
After watching this video I purchased the Mothers cleaner and it's done a great job. I wonder if you have any suggestions how to really get into the crevices in the flower pattern on the back and side cover plates. I guess a little tarnish looks ok to give more depth but I wouldn't mind getting out as much as possible and letting it tarnish again over time.
Hello and thanks for watching the channel. I have used the new Q-Tips that are tapered and less apt to shred. (They all can but these are better). That should help you get into at least some of those ornate crevices. Let us know how this works for you!
Thank you for the wonderful video series on cleaning and maintenance! I am gathering materials and information to restore my grandmothers" Singer 27. What brand sewing machine oil do you recommend?
It depends on how often you have it open and where you store it. Unless you have it in a dusty location, cleaning does not need to be done that often. Cleaning, for aesthetics, is subjective though.
Thank you very much for this! I recently came into possession of a very old Standard with a hand crank, and I didn’t know where to start! I made some mistakes I know now, but I don’t plan to use the machine for anything beyond personal sewing so hopefully it won’t matter :)
Thanks for the great videos! I am about to embark on a LBOW 301A restoration and have enjoyed your expertise! I wonder if you have tried any of the rust converting solutions. From what I understand this is gentler than mechanical removal of rust and keeps lacquer/enamel/plating intact.
That's an interesting question Gregory. I have used rust converters in the past for automotive projects, but not on sewing machines. Before trying those products, you might want to investigate if they work on Aluminum painted surfaces. The 301, like the 221, has an Aluminum body/chassis. Most rust converters alter Iron Oxide (rust on steel or iron) into another oxide that is supposed to be more stable than rust. Aluminum oxidizes but has a different chemistry.
Love the content. When it comes to metal polishes have you tried Brasso? I’ve never used it on a sewing machine, but it does work great on nickel, and of course brass.
Hello Sue. That's an interesting question. If you have one, it can be worth a try. Some of those offer heated reservoirs for the solution which can speed things up. You would want to check to see what types of items any of these devices are specified for. If you have one already (such as for jewelry cleaning) , it might be useful. I don't know if I would purchase one just for cleaning parts of a single machine. I myself have never used one though it could prove to be a time saver given how many machine parts I polish!! Like anything else, I would test it before loading lots of parts in one. Most of the hardware on machines that I have to clean are either plated with Nickel, Chrome , or an anodized coating such as those on the Singer Blackside Finished parts many of which were made around the time of WWII when metals like Nickel were scarce. If you try it, let us know how it works for you.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I was going to borrow a friend of mine. I will surely yet let you know how this setup works and I'll document it step-by-step thank you for all you do for our small community
My machines metal plates are engraved, but are covered with a brown film. A little of this has come off with machine oil, but not much.I can scratch it off with my nail, but I’m worried about damaging the engraving. My speculation is it may be nicotine staining. Any ideas about how to remove this? Thanks for your good advice.
Shellac I used to protect the decals. Please watch the video on restoring decals and this guy also has a website. ruclips.net/video/bDZVF_H79T8/видео.html
In other videos he's been very wary of using much water and wants it to be dry quickly. Here 190 grain alcohol is still available and at a reasonable price, if you want to try that, instead.
Finding it odd that it's specifically 90% that's hard to find. I'm presuming people have been buying it up to sanitize hands? From my experience in microbiology/cell biology labs, we always diluted alcohol to 70% concentration, because 90% evaporates too quickly to sanitize anything, because it doesn't stay on surfaces long enough. More isn't always better 😅
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage DIY nickel plating is achievable at home, though I haven't tried it yet. It is possible to do it cheaply, though, like anything, more expensive equipment can always be used. I believe that it takes some practice and experimenting to get a great finish. Search for Nickel Plating in RUclips for many how to videos - the first few videos listed are very good. Thank you for all the hard work that you put into your channel. It is extremely informative and your enthusiasm for the machines is infectious! 👍
I forget to say that I would never attempt DIY Chrome plating as it is an extremely toxic process. The process of nickel plating however poses a far lower risk, though of course the correct protection must be used. I personally would attempt nickel plating after further investigation.
Hello Terry. Normally, I can take the feet off of the machine and find that cotton swabs and 90 % + rubbing alcohol can remove most old oils/stains. If they have any oxidation/rust, you can use metal polish similar to what I use here on the other metal parts of the machine. Very fine grit sandpaper (600 plus grit) can also help in those cases.
Yes, but most people will not want the smell of Kerosene inside their homes. It does not evaporate quickly and the smell can permeate lots of porous materials that you want to avoid exposing it to such as bed linens, furniture upholstery etc.
not a cleaning question but maybe you can direct me..I have a 1908 singer with a wooden pitman arm . the iron base has a broken leg and cracked treadle. Where HOw who can help me repair these . Thanks oh I am in San Diego,California
Hi Robin. I suspect that your base repairs may require welding. I have no background in that skill, but there may be someone in your community that could easily repair this for you.
Full of useful information, but could have been accomplished in half the time if not less. The virtue of going straight to the point and not repeating oneself ten times... As you mentioned, cleaning itself requires enough time and patience already... ;) A an aside, I would rather soak the non lacquered parts in brake cleaner, alcohol, acetone or even gasoline to degrease: less time consuming, no rubbing involved and it's not abrasive at all; if it's just dried old oil, you wouldn't even need anything more than rubbing a drop of fresh oil as protection afterwards.
Zymol produces waxes for auto use but I am unaware if they make a metal polish. If they do, you can try it but I have not used that product on my machines and so I cannot say if it would work or be harmful.
The only way that could work is to try and use a Singer ZigZag attachment. Whether it would be compatible with 1910 versions would need to be verified.
I should have seen this a year ago, when I brought an Adler-199 from 1955 back to life. I had to find out most of this on my own. Everybody told me, that the most important part would be patience. And although I‘m more of an impatient person, I agree: Give the stuff time to enter whatever dirt to dissolve it, and it‘ll spare you a lot of muscle work. I found that cotton make-up remover pads come in very handy, because they don’t fray as much as cotton balls. And I learned one more thing: In doubt what a special type of cleaner will do to your vintage sewing machine, I try to avoid using anything, that didn’t exist when the machine was built. Another thing: Never toss old toothbrushes. They do an awesome job in creases, I even used the electrical toothbrush with a very soft brush on it - great timesaver.
Great tip!
Good idea for testing the back of the plate. I bought some GoJo original hand cleaner without pumice and I'm thing to try it. The sewing machine oil just isn't cutting the 139 year old grime. I did use coconut oil and to my surprise, performed very well. I read to clean Mother-of-Pearl with coconut oil and use white wax after and to buff with silk. I don't think I own any silk since I cannot stand wearing it, but the coconut oil worked well. I'm going to test the GoJo on my 1927 sphinx model 127 since the decals are pretty much worn in certain places anyway and I'm not as attached to that machine as I am my 1882 New Family Model 12 fiddle bed. i did use the coconut oil on the 1882 Mother-of-Pearl decals that remained and the outcome is simply amazing! I don't think the 1882 has much shellac remained so I'm trying to tread lightly but the sewing machine oil just didn't perform on it. Great video, thank you for the information and testing. I haven't seen anyone else use coconut oil, I'm interested if that reacts with the shellac or lacquer finishes. 🤔 Thus far, I haven't noticed anything but shine.
I really appreciate that you emphasize which products to use, and you warn about choosing products that contain ingredients that could possibly damage a beloved vintage, or maybe a newer model. Thank You for sharing and caring enough to give many possibilities for success, and more than a subtle mention of those products that could/would cause damage.
You are so welcome!
I really appreciate learning the correct way to care and restore an vintage sewing machine. So interesting.
Wonderful!
The things I had been taught to use, Evapo-Rust for oxidation, it is very mild can be used for even very delicate parts like bobbin cases, and Blue Creeper for almost everything else, it is safe on lacquered and painted surfaces and fabulous for bare metal.
“i didn’t want to pick something you would have to order from England”
me in England: damn!
Yeah! A treadle, and a 27! Just what I need! Five different treadles have followed me home in the last two weeks.
You sound like me and spinning wheels....!! (We won't talk about the half dozen sewing machines...)
I have that exact same thing happen to me! I just look in my rearview mirror and what do you know, there is a treadle machine in the back of my car! amazing how that happens. ;)
I've only been followed by one treadle, but I stumbled across the Goodwill online auction site, and suddenly vintage machines were just showing up on my doorstep, like little lost lambs. 🤣
Funny how once you start picking up vintage machines, more follow behind. I decided to order one off ebay and next thing I know, someone offered me a free Kenmore from the 1950's with cabinet
@@ScarletRoseLayoska mine was a must accept, Kenmore 1947 sales slip and tune up record with it. Obviously my birthday machine. Then the Singer treadle bought in May 1912, my mother’s birthday! GoodWill $35 with all attachments, instruction book and extra needles and feet!
I have been watching your videos and trying to clean and restore a 1912 Singer Sphinx Treadle machine and it is coming out great. The metal parts that can't be removed are giving me the most trouble but I am very pleased with the results so far. Thank you for putting together such a helpful video.
That is awesome!
Thank you for doing these cleaning videos. Picking up a Treadle sewing machine for my 91 y/o daddy tomorrow that needs cleaning before going delivery. I hope that it will look like the one that he learned how to sew on oh so many years ago. I'm not wanting to completely restore, just wanting to clean it and oil it and shine up the cabinet. This video will help a lot. Thank you again. ❤
What a lovely gift for your father. 💜
Looks like a nice, old, spinning wheel sitting there. I love them as much as I love old sewing machines.
Me too!
Thanks for this. I followed your cleaning video for the lacquered body of the machine. It has come up a treat. Now I know what to use on the metal plates I'll get on with that after putting the undercarriage back together following videos 1 and 2. I'm in England but I'm sure I can find a suitable metal polish for all metals. I will test on the back first though. Thanks again.
Just getting started in this endeavor of bringing my old treadles back to life. Thanks for great detailed information!
You bet!
I'm cleaning my first vintage sewing machine and I am so glad videos such as yours exist. I wouldve otherwise ruined my 128 SInger!
Wonderful!
I picked up a Damascus tredle machine that someone had tossed out to the road. It was grubby with dust and dirt and I wasn't sure how to clean it, not wanting to mess up the beautiful decals. I carefully wiped it down with some gentle formula make-up wipes. Most of the grub came off and it's georgus.
I'm thinking lipstick would be a safe 'polish'. Its very similar to "jeweler's rough".
I have a Damascus treadle and love it!
I just wanna say thank you for everything you’ve posted. I inherited an 1890s White VS3. The paint and decals were ruined long before i got it, so i’m not to worried about ruining that, but it’s nice knowing this stuff. I’m going to be refinishing it since restoring it is impossible. But using the oil to clean? Would have never thought about that. Thank you!
So glad I found your channel. I recently bought a 1911 Minnesota Model D sewing machine it needs a good cleaning
That is awesome!
Pace, content, and length were fine for this beginner. Questions: any concerns about oil residue from cleaning damaging fabrics when sewing? And you briefly mentioned being careful with the sewing machine oil and the decals. Any risk of removing the decals? Thanks for these videos, they are exactly what I need!
Love watching your videos. Greetings fae Bonnie Scotland 😊
Thanks so much.
I just cleaned a Featherweight and on the non-painted parts, I used Ballistol Cleaner that I use on my firearms. It is a cleaner/preservative cleaner.
Great and informative video! Thank you! What would you use to clean the metal plate that has the trademark. It looks like that cannot be removed from the sewing machine. Thank you!
Very informative video. I've had good luck on the bare metal and plated parts using Brasso. Has anyone else had experience with Brasso? Any tips or caveats would be welcome.
Your show is great. I've learned so much and you always keep it interesting so I pay attention :) Thanks.
Awesome, thank you!
Very helpful. Thanks fir sharing your skillset.
Glad it was helpful!
Nickel plating is virtually the same as chrome plating. Back in the day when this machine was built it was called "German Silver". It never had the durability we expect today.
Thank you Candace. I learned something new today!
I'm not sure what your opinion will be on this, but I used magic erasers on the metal parts of a garage-kept Singer 15-91. It worked great! The color went from yellowed, rustish, browned, or even somewhat blackened on some parts to a bright silver finish in almost all areas! (there was some pitting in some spots.) I'm using machine oil in the machine itself & it's working well so far. I wish we could attach photos on here.
Hi Angie. I've never used one on metal parts though I would be very cautious about using on paint finishes. Those pads are a lot more abrasive than they appear when holding in your hand. They can strip off more than you want them to so use but be real conservative with them.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Oh, I wouldn't dare use them on the paint! I've only used water & tissues (after a paint brush) to get the dust & dirt off & I've been using machine oil. It's looking great so far! I ONLY used the magic erasers on the METAL parts & they all look fantastic! Almost like brand new... Do you happen to have a good source for a motor belt for a 15-91? I bought one & it doesn't seem to fit correctly. My serial # is AG900738. Thanks in advance. :)
@@angiepierce8837 Hello Angie. Although most sewing machines use motor belts, the 15-91 is one of several Singer models that do not use belts. They have a direct drive motor that has a gear that connects to the hand wheel gear. Some people refer to these motors as "Potted Motors" though Singer did not use that name. If someone is trying to sell you a motor belt for a Singer 15-91, they are either uninformed or ethically challenged!
@@angiepierce8837 Oh , also, be sure that your machine is a 15-91. Singer made other 15 models such as the 15-90 that DO take motor belts.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage Thank you! I think it's actually the 15-90.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with such detail and enthusiasm. I want to revive an old family sewing machine from 1922, a Singer treadle, but don’t want to risk damaging it and your videos are very reassuring. It is very thoughtful and generous of you to take the time. I also have a question. What do you think of Hagerty silver and multimetal foam (says for silver, tin and steel) on the needle plate? It seems coated, has a bit flaky appearance... Should be nickel or chrome? For chrome I read that aluminium foil and water can be used to remove the oxidation... Any advice you may have is very appreciated.
Hi Paula. There is a pretty good chance that your plate is Nickel plated steel. I normally find that Silver polish is best reserved for Silver, but if you are using it on your plate with no ill effects, it should provide what you are seeking. FYI, always test it before using it on a large section.
Thank you so much for sharing your expertise and knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
The Singer-Featherweight shop recommends using a sonic jewelry cleaner with jewelry cleaner for those type parts!
Hi Loriann. Yes, some folks have had a lot of success with those. If people have them already, it could be a great tool. I have had good luck with polishes and so I personally would not purchase one solely for cleaning machine parts, but to each his or her own! Thank you for mentioning this.
They recommend for CHROME pieces, not nickel.
If your working on something before ww1 is might be a shellac based lacquer paint. I wonder if french polishing might be a good way to restore an antique finish like this.
Me again. Thanks so much. I just want to ask about the light oxidation and grime and staining on the parts that can be removed. So the bobbin winder complex and bobbin mechanism. And the presser foot area. Do you remove all of them as some knobs are textured and hard to clean. Do you put them in a jewellery cleaner or in a liquid for a while? Or do you keep everything in situ. This is a renovation of a good 99k but I want to try and give it a good service and maximum clean. Thank you.
I use a sonic cleaner for plated parts and accessories. With a light buffing most items look like new.
Hi. Excellent content. Do you have any tips on cleaning vintage attachments ie: sewing feet. I have recently bought a singer 66 and most of the attachments have rust on them. With thanks.
Hi Allison. I have a video under my "CLEANING SERIES" that shows techniques that would also work on attachments. Here is a link to one of those: ruclips.net/video/n0aWcLrnu90/видео.html
"Mostly for cleaning my hands" Hilarious
I can confirm as a person who works with metal parts in analytical instuments Mothers polish is amazing. However, it does not matter how clean you think it is the mothers will pull off dirt and oxidation forever........ you have to knkw when to say when
I use a liquid grease cleaner called PURPLE POWER for my machines(hardware store). Did not ruin the paint at all. Works like a champ. I use PURPLE POWER for all my grease stains around my house. MUST WARE PLASTIC GLOVES.
After watching this video I purchased the Mothers cleaner and it's done a great job. I wonder if you have any suggestions how to really get into the crevices in the flower pattern on the back and side cover plates. I guess a little tarnish looks ok to give more depth but I wouldn't mind getting out as much as possible and letting it tarnish again over time.
Hello and thanks for watching the channel. I have used the new Q-Tips that are tapered and less apt to shred. (They all can but these are better). That should help you get into at least some of those ornate crevices. Let us know how this works for you!
I use paint brushes to get in the crevices. Works great!
If you have access to one of these mentioned sonic cleaners, my experience from bicycle parts is that it will get all the crevices with little effort.
Love the old spinning wheel sitting there by the window. Are you restoring that too?
Hi Dee. That was a gift. I may take on restoring it.
Thank you for the wonderful video series on cleaning and maintenance! I am gathering materials and information to restore my grandmothers" Singer 27. What brand sewing machine oil do you recommend?
Brand is less important than making sure it says 'Sewing Machine Oil'
I’m here rewatching in 2023 cause I dragged a turquoise White zig zag home last week. Yes, alcohol does dissolve the paint!
What about engraved plates on the front of the machine? Same polishing method?
Yes, same method applies there.
How often should you clean a Singer 99 with sewing machine oil?
It depends on how often you have it open and where you store it. Unless you have it in a dusty location, cleaning does not need to be done that often. Cleaning, for aesthetics, is subjective though.
Thank you very much for this! I recently came into possession of a very old Standard with a hand crank, and I didn’t know where to start! I made some mistakes I know now, but I don’t plan to use the machine for anything beyond personal sewing so hopefully it won’t matter :)
What sewing machine like do you use? I have read somewhere about singer changing the oil they had is that true?
Thanks for the great videos! I am about to embark on a LBOW 301A restoration and have enjoyed your expertise! I wonder if you have tried any of the rust converting solutions. From what I understand this is gentler than mechanical removal of rust and keeps lacquer/enamel/plating intact.
That's an interesting question Gregory. I have used rust converters in the past for automotive projects, but not on sewing machines. Before trying those products, you might want to investigate if they work on Aluminum painted surfaces. The 301, like the 221, has an Aluminum body/chassis. Most rust converters alter Iron Oxide (rust on steel or iron) into another oxide that is supposed to be more stable than rust. Aluminum oxidizes but has a different chemistry.
Love the content. When it comes to metal polishes have you tried Brasso? I’ve never used it on a sewing machine, but it does work great on nickel, and of course brass.
Not yet!
Have a question please.. what are your thoughts on using a sonic jewelry cleaner on the small chrome parts? Just wondering. Faithfully, Sue
Hello Sue. That's an interesting question. If you have one, it can be worth a try. Some of those offer heated reservoirs for the solution which can speed things up. You would want to check to see what types of items any of these devices are specified for. If you have one already (such as for jewelry cleaning) , it might be useful. I don't know if I would purchase one just for cleaning parts of a single machine. I myself have never used one though it could prove to be a time saver given how many machine parts I polish!! Like anything else, I would test it before loading lots of parts in one. Most of the hardware on machines that I have to clean are either plated with Nickel, Chrome , or an anodized coating such as those on the Singer Blackside Finished parts many of which were made around the time of WWII when metals like Nickel were scarce. If you try it, let us know how it works for you.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I was going to borrow a friend of mine. I will surely yet let you know how this setup works and I'll document it step-by-step thank you for all you do for our small community
Low quality oil can be acidic and cause some oxidation also
My machines metal plates are engraved, but are covered with a brown film. A little of this has come off with machine oil, but not much.I can scratch it off with my nail, but I’m worried about damaging the engraving. My speculation is it may be nicotine staining. Any ideas about how to remove this? Thanks for your good advice.
Hey do you work on spinning Wheels as well?
Thank you!
Cool.
would brazo work on the metal parts?
Lacquer will also help seal and protect the cleaned metal pieces.
I was wondering if it was acceptable to lacquer with a clear coat to preserve the decals that are left.
Shellac I used to protect the decals. Please watch the video on restoring decals and this guy also has a website. ruclips.net/video/bDZVF_H79T8/видео.html
Good to know
is it okay to use 70% isopropyl alcohol? its been difficult finding 90% at reasonable prices these day.
In other videos he's been very wary of using much water and wants it to be dry quickly. Here 190 grain alcohol is still available and at a reasonable price, if you want to try that, instead.
Finding it odd that it's specifically 90% that's hard to find. I'm presuming people have been buying it up to sanitize hands? From my experience in microbiology/cell biology labs, we always diluted alcohol to 70% concentration, because 90% evaporates too quickly to sanitize anything, because it doesn't stay on surfaces long enough. More isn't always better 😅
What are your thoughts on replating very corroded nickel parts. Thank you.
I'm sure there are sources to have plating done. What the cost would be? I'm not sure.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage DIY nickel plating is achievable at home, though I haven't tried it yet. It is possible to do it cheaply, though, like anything, more expensive equipment can always be used. I believe that it takes some practice and experimenting to get a great finish. Search for Nickel Plating in RUclips for many how to videos - the first few videos listed are very good.
Thank you for all the hard work that you put into your channel. It is extremely informative and your enthusiasm for the machines is infectious! 👍
I forget to say that I would never attempt DIY Chrome plating as it is an extremely toxic process. The process of nickel plating however poses a far lower risk, though of course the correct protection must be used. I personally would attempt nickel plating after further investigation.
how about Brasso??? ever tried that???
How do you safely clean sewing machine attachments ie feet etc
Hello Terry. Normally, I can take the feet off of the machine and find that cotton swabs and 90 % + rubbing alcohol can remove most old oils/stains. If they have any oxidation/rust, you can use metal polish similar to what I use here on the other metal parts of the machine. Very fine grit sandpaper (600 plus grit) can also help in those cases.
what do you use to clean the screws?
Typically, I use rubbing alcohol which takes off any unwatned grime/grease.
@@VintageSewingMachineGarage )l
I wonder if the hand cleaner might have caused a reaction.
I'm also wondering if you're familiar with a product called Simichrome that can be used to clean metal.
Hello. No, I've not heard of that before but am curious to explore more about it.
Semichrome is a aluminum cleaner also can be used to test for backlit on a cotton swabs rub on backlit swabs will have a slightly orang /tan colore.
I read they recommended cleaning Singer machines with kerosene.
Yes, but most people will not want the smell of Kerosene inside their homes. It does not evaporate quickly and the smell can permeate lots of porous materials that you want to avoid exposing it to such as bed linens, furniture upholstery etc.
not a cleaning question but maybe you can direct me..I have a 1908 singer with a wooden pitman arm . the iron base has a broken leg and cracked treadle. Where HOw who can help me repair these . Thanks oh I am in San Diego,California
Hi Robin. I suspect that your base repairs may require welding. I have no background in that skill, but there may be someone in your community that could easily repair this for you.
Need someone with cast iron welding expertise. Ask to see examples of work.
Full of useful information, but could have been accomplished in half the time if not less. The virtue of going straight to the point and not repeating oneself ten times...
As you mentioned, cleaning itself requires enough time and patience already... ;)
A an aside, I would rather soak the non lacquered parts in brake cleaner, alcohol, acetone or even gasoline to degrease: less time consuming, no rubbing involved and it's not abrasive at all; if it's just dried old oil, you wouldn't even need anything more than rubbing a drop of fresh oil as protection afterwards.
What about polish with zymol?
Zymol produces waxes for auto use but I am unaware if they make a metal polish. If they do, you can try it but I have not used that product on my machines and so I cannot say if it would work or be harmful.
anybody know if you can zig zag on a 1910 sewing vintage singer machine?
The only way that could work is to try and use a Singer ZigZag attachment. Whether it would be compatible with 1910 versions would need to be verified.
I noticed your spinning wheel needs a little attention.
You have a great eye. Yes, it most certainly does. It is currently a piece of 'decor' that was a gift. We will see what the future holds for it.
Thanks for the video. I gave it a like. I have to say, though, that you have a tendency to put 7 minutes of content into 35 minutes of video.
Way too wordy.