Your fascia boards look great! If you're interested, you can ask for "theater black" at the paint store (which they add a bit of dark blue into), which is darker than flat black, used for exhibits, darkrooms, etc. I totally agree with your presentation skills, since I believe to make a layout "great", model railroaders should think more about professional presentation through this type of work! p.s. I totally appreciate your videos. Your style is so right on, because you never talk down to the viewer. Very cool!! Thanks!!!
Great tutorial. Easy to follow. Nicely done. I love the flowing look to that curved facia. I found this just in time. Saved me from doing the clunky, square version or curtains. Thanks again!
Now all I need is all that beautiful amount of engines and layout size. I did that almost at the beginning. And you are correct! it makes a great difference. But still your layout looks ten times better than mine. Great how to, and good tips! RT
I like the video. It got bookmarked for later down the road when I get around to do mine. One tip I noticed that may help you when doing that U section of your layout, if you ever redo it that is, screw the inside of the corners and leave your outside edges clamped. Then glue those corner fillers in. That way you can press/slide the fascia board into the corner to get a tighter fit against your filler and reclamp it till glue sets, then proceed with glue and screwing it in place like you did on the outside edges. Might help eliminate filling gaps that you talked about around your corners.
Kevin, very well done video. excellent explanations and clear step by step instructions. Nice steady cam work. Personally I liked your choice of background music but everyone has their own preference. This was extremely helpful. Thanks.
Great idea on the legs. Like your technique. One point to add is that most facia board has 2 sides. A "smooth" and a "textured" side so when installing make sure you use the same side all the way around or it won't blend very well. The smooth side works better for painting. Great video.
Thanks. I've found both the smooth/textured Masonite and the smooth/smooth Masonite at local chain hardware stores for the same price. You're right in that you'd want to have the smooth side facing out.
Excellent job! Don't know if I'll wind up doing that but was more interested in the layout form. I've got plenty of room in the basement for long runs, etc. Cheers, Bob
Nigel, I use 1/2". 1", and 2" foam depending on how deep I need to make cuts into it to represent ditches, culverts, etc. On this layout I used 1" foam. Cheers, Kevin.
I noticed you just stapled the skirting to the bench work. I was considering using Velcro to the back of the facia board. I am using a lightweight thin black material for my skirting. Using staples will cut down on costs and keep things simple. What are your thoughts ?
I considered Velcro as well. For me the deciding factor was how often I'd be removing the skirting--which was basically only if I took down the layout to move. If it was a portable layout or something like that, or if the material would rip easily when lifted out of the way to access stuff under the layout, then I might have gone with Velcro. Hope this helps. Cheers, Kevin
harleynut1961 I used 1/8" Masonite. Since some areas have a double sided backdrop, I used the Masonite that is smooth on both sides in those areas and the Masonite that is rough on one side in the areas where the backdrop was only 1 sided.
Kevin; Do you run the top edge of the fascia to meet the exact dge of the foam board? or do you haave a small lip above the foam board? Do you sand the edges of the fascia? When I cut mine, there were some rough edges.
Cameron, yes I sanded the top edge of the fascia a bit. Mine was pretty smooth after being cut so it didn't require much. I put the top of the fascia flush with the top of the foam. Hope this helps. Cheers, Kevin
Revisiting this video. I noticed how almost all of your layout is curved. Is that how the benchwork is made, or did you fill in the gaps with foam to expand the layout. If you did, i love the ideal and am definatly going to do it. I think the curve kinda makes it feel like you are looking at a much small portion of a location, where as rectangle shapes make it feel more condensed, and sore eye.
No, the benchwork is mostly rectangular. If you go back and watch my video where I install my fascia board, you can see the benchwork before and afterwards. Cheers, Kevin
The fascia is made from hardboard. The most common brand here is called Masonite. It is a 1/8" compressed wood fiber board and is different from cardboard, plywood, chipboard, or MDF. It is very flexible which allows you to make nice curves on the corners of the layout. It is usually rough on one side and smooth on the other, but some hardboard is smooth on both sides. Hope this helps. Cheers, Kevin
Kevin another great video. I think I have seen them all. One question, I see that you are married, how does your wife support your train "habit"? My beautiful and pregnant wife of 4 years is still on the fence about mine. Joe from Ohio
hey Kevin... first of all it's great to see the face that's behind the camera... great tip with the use of a helping leg.... one suggestion.. the music was drowning you out... just my 2 cents vinny
Thanks for the comment. I've changed how I dub in my narration since this video and try to keep the music quieter in my more recent videos. Cheers, Kevin
You should PRIME the masonite BEFORE painting. Avoid paints with "primer" already in the paint. You're just paying more for your paint. Prime with a good primer like Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 water based primer (much better than Kilz primer) then paint with a good basic paint. Home Depot's Behr paint is one of the best paints out there. And yes.......kill the music!
+Sandra J. Syx-Spears I'm sure that would work as well. I always try to give my layout a "finished" appearance even as I'm just beginning construction since layout will almost never be finished. Cheers, Kevin
My legs are a friend that I called... Seams in curves are a disaster to work with... I took an old putty knife and fied ridges in the flat end. This lets me spread out the glue and get a better hold with less glue....
David, yes friends work too for helping hold everything together while you're getting the screws in place. Agree with you on seams on curves. The tighter the curve the worse it is. I try and avoid having a seam on a curve if I can. Cheers, Kevin
Will, thanks for the tip. I did have to remove the fascia board for some of the changes I'm making and it came off OK, but a in few areas I'll have to go back and clean up the old glue before reattaching it. Cheers, Kevin
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Your fascia boards look great! If you're interested, you can ask for "theater black" at the paint store (which they add a bit of dark blue into), which is darker than flat black, used for exhibits, darkrooms, etc. I totally agree with your presentation skills, since I believe to make a layout "great", model railroaders should think more about professional presentation through this type of work! p.s. I totally appreciate your videos. Your style is so right on, because you never talk down to the viewer. Very cool!! Thanks!!!
Paul, thanks for the feedback and compliments. Also, thanks for the tip on theater black. I hadn't heard about that before. Cheers, Kevin
Great tutorial. Easy to follow. Nicely done. I love the flowing look to that curved facia. I found this just in time. Saved me from doing the clunky, square version or curtains. Thanks again!
Rock Island Thanks for the feedback. Glad you like the look and hope this technique works for you and you get the look you're going for. Cheers, Kevin
Now all I need is all that beautiful amount of engines and layout size. I did that almost at the beginning. And you are correct! it makes a great difference. But still your layout looks ten times better than mine. Great how to, and good tips! RT
Thanks RT.
I like the video. It got bookmarked for later down the road when I get around to do mine. One tip I noticed that may help you when doing that U section of your layout, if you ever redo it that is, screw the inside of the corners and leave your outside edges clamped. Then glue those corner fillers in. That way you can press/slide the fascia board into the corner to get a tighter fit against your filler and reclamp it till glue sets, then proceed with glue and screwing it in place like you did on the outside edges. Might help eliminate filling gaps that you talked about around your corners.
Kedric, thanks. Agree with your tip on how to get the curve tighter. Cheers, Kevin
Kevin, very well done video. excellent explanations and clear step by step instructions. Nice steady cam work. Personally I liked your choice of background music but everyone has their own preference. This was extremely helpful. Thanks.
Thanks for the compliments on the video and feedback. Glad to hear you found the video useful. Cheers, Kevin
Really liked the video. Will be adding fascia to our layout very soon. Thanks for showing this, great work.
+B&G RailRoad Thanks. Hope these tips work out for you when you install your fascia. Cheers, Kevin
Great idea on the legs. Like your technique. One point to add is that most facia board has 2 sides. A "smooth" and a "textured" side so when installing make sure you use the same side all the way around or it won't blend very well. The smooth side works better for painting. Great video.
Thanks. I've found both the smooth/textured Masonite and the smooth/smooth Masonite at local chain hardware stores for the same price. You're right in that you'd want to have the smooth side facing out.
The fascia looks good.Great video thanks for sharing your techniques
You're welcome. Glad to hear. - Kevin
Another great instructive video Kevin. Thanks for sharing. Continued success on your Joint Line.
Wiley T
Wiley T, thanks for the complement. Glad you enjoyed the video. - Kevin
Excellent job! Don't know if I'll wind up doing that but was more interested in the layout form. I've got plenty of room in the basement for long runs, etc. Cheers, Bob
Nice job enjoyed the tips regarding the curves and paint! Thanks for the time and effort..
You're welcome. Hopefully some folks find them helpful.
Fascia board looks good. I coated mine with a thinned pva which gave an bond and so used a lot less paint and less likely to chip off.
you dont have any problems with the seams cracking ? or no an thats 1/8 board right ?.
You did a excellent job and thank you for sharing this video with us
Thanks you for the feedback. Cheers, Kevin.
Now what was the process of cutting the fascia board?? What did you use to cut the board?
Great video. Keep them coming. William
William Stanley Glad too. Just have to find time to get some modeling done along with the videos. Plus a little bit of railfanning. Cheers, Kevin
Hi Kevin. I’m thinking of putting foam on plywood. What thickness is your foam please ?
Nigel, I use 1/2". 1", and 2" foam depending on how deep I need to make cuts into it to represent ditches, culverts, etc. On this layout I used 1" foam. Cheers, Kevin.
I noticed you just stapled the skirting to the bench work. I was considering using Velcro to the back of the facia board. I am using a lightweight thin black material for my skirting. Using staples will cut down on costs and keep things simple. What are your thoughts ?
I considered Velcro as well. For me the deciding factor was how often I'd be removing the skirting--which was basically only if I took down the layout to move. If it was a portable layout or something like that, or if the material would rip easily when lifted out of the way to access stuff under the layout, then I might have gone with Velcro. Hope this helps. Cheers, Kevin
Nice how to video. Very easy to follow. Thanks for sharing.
Dan
You're welcome Dan. - Kevin
Nice helpful video...One question.. How do you hold your cork roadbed to the FOAM?
harleynut1961 I used 1/8" Masonite. Since some areas have a double sided backdrop, I used the Masonite that is smooth on both sides in those areas and the Masonite that is rough on one side in the areas where the backdrop was only 1 sided.
Thanks for the info
I too like the legs, well thought out video
Thanks.
Very cool. Black makes the layout pop. I will def. Use that leg trick. Keep it up. Later, John
Thanks John. - Kevin
Awesome video. Would you recommend installing the fascia before or after you have completed your scenery?
It looks good. Thank you for doing the video.
Mark, you're welcome. Thanks for the compliment. Cheers, Kevin
Kevin; Do you run the top edge of the fascia to meet the exact dge of the foam board? or do you haave a small lip above the foam board? Do you sand the edges of the fascia? When I cut mine, there were some rough edges.
Cameron, yes I sanded the top edge of the fascia a bit. Mine was pretty smooth after being cut so it didn't require much. I put the top of the fascia flush with the top of the foam. Hope this helps. Cheers, Kevin
Kevin; Thanks. Really good video...
thanks for posting and share ,Looking forward to your next video LIKE
Thanks.
Is it me or did ur track pop off the roadbed at 12:09? Nice fascia btw!!
Revisiting this video. I noticed how almost all of your layout is curved. Is that how the benchwork is made, or did you fill in the gaps with foam to expand the layout. If you did, i love the ideal and am definatly going to do it. I think the curve kinda makes it feel like you are looking at a much small portion of a location, where as rectangle shapes make it feel more condensed, and sore eye.
No, the benchwork is mostly rectangular. If you go back and watch my video where I install my fascia board, you can see the benchwork before and afterwards. Cheers, Kevin
Thanks for the video. Very informative. Well done! Your fascia boards look excellent!
Thanks for the compliments and feedback. Cheers, Kevin
Hello,
As I understand too much English, it is light wood or cardboard that you use? please.
Thanks a lot and have a nice weekend.
The fascia is made from hardboard. The most common brand here is called Masonite. It is a 1/8" compressed wood fiber board and is different from cardboard, plywood, chipboard, or MDF. It is very flexible which allows you to make nice curves on the corners of the layout. It is usually rough on one side and smooth on the other, but some hardboard is smooth on both sides. Hope this helps. Cheers, Kevin
Thank you very much for this information and good luck.
Good week
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Anytime. Glad you enjoyed the video. Cheers, Kevin
Did you use regular Masonite or was it tempered?
I'm actually not sure. I just bought what the local hardware store had. Cheers, Kevin
Nice work man! Keep er up
Thanks.
I would say that just screws would be plenty for a fascia, especially given that it will be moved in a couple years.
BigDave, you're probably right. The construction adhesive probably isn't actually necessary. Cheers, Kevin.
Kevin another great video. I think I have seen them all. One question, I see that you are married, how does your wife support your train "habit"? My beautiful and pregnant wife of 4 years is still on the fence about mine.
Joe from Ohio
Joesph, thanks for the complement. My wife is a great supporter of my hobbies. Congrats on the upcoming birth of your child. - Kevin
Can you tell me what thickness of Masonite you used? Great video.
He said it in the video. 1/8th inch.
This is the typical stuff they sell at Home depot.
hey Kevin... first of all it's great to see the face that's behind the camera... great tip with the use of a helping leg.... one suggestion.. the music was drowning you out... just my 2 cents
vinny
Thanks Vinny. Noted on the music. I'm going to change how I do the narration in future videos to keep my volume more even. Cheers, Kevin.
Looks great, thanks for vid.......
You're Welcome. - Kevin
Why the music? I think you did a good job explaining the procedure but I could not watch because of the distraction of the music.
Thanks for the comment. I've changed how I dub in my narration since this video and try to keep the music quieter in my more recent videos. Cheers, Kevin
Scale Model Trains & Colorado's Joint Line
Great. I will check the newer videos out. Keep up the good work!
Superseanbarry don’t be a butthole.
You should PRIME the masonite BEFORE painting. Avoid paints with "primer" already in the paint. You're just paying more for your paint. Prime with a good primer like Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 water based primer (much better than Kilz primer) then paint with a good basic paint. Home Depot's Behr paint is one of the best paints out there. And yes.......kill the music!
Thanks for the information and feedback. Cheers, Kevin
Music overpowers your video!
Thanks for the feedback. I've changed how I dub in music in my more recent videos, if I have any music at all. Cheers, Kevin
I'm glad someone brought that up.
nice Kevin
Thanks.
thanks for the tips
+Shelton D'Cruz Not a problem. Glad you found them to be useful. Cheers, Kevin
i was thinking of painting my benchwork before the build as i live in a harsh climate
+Sandra J. Syx-Spears I'm sure that would work as well. I always try to give my layout a "finished" appearance even as I'm just beginning construction since layout will almost never be finished. Cheers, Kevin
My legs are a friend that I called... Seams in curves are a disaster to work with... I took an old putty knife and fied ridges in the flat end. This lets me spread out the glue and get a better hold with less glue....
David, yes friends work too for helping hold everything together while you're getting the screws in place. Agree with you on seams on curves. The tighter the curve the worse it is. I try and avoid having a seam on a curve if I can. Cheers, Kevin
If you prime the hardboard with Kilz there will not be a problem.
Interesting video but for me the music was too loud and distracting!!
The music was too intrusive,
Please lower the music It's difficult to hear you
Vinny, thanks for letting me know. I'll take that into consideration in my future videos. - kevin
For people that have some hearing loss, that music is really annoying.
Daryl, thanks for the feedback. In most of my more recent videos I don't have any background music. Cheers, Kevin
This looks like a video I would really enjoy and learn from, but I can't get past the music and low volume level on the spoken word. Try again?
If you're going to move the layout again, I'd think twice before glueing the Masonite to the benchwork.
Will, thanks for the tip. I did have to remove the fascia board for some of the changes I'm making and it came off OK, but a in few areas I'll have to go back and clean up the old glue before reattaching it. Cheers, Kevin