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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2022
- Most of us own at least one battery-operated power tool, including a charger. What if we could use their batteries also for our electronics projects? Let’s have a closer look!
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XT60 Adapter : www.thingiverse.com/thing:311...
Power Supply Model : cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...
Undervoltage Protection : www.thingiverse.com/thing:457...
Undervoltage protector XH-M609 (viewer suggested): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ArwJtP
Tiny-e Lab : www.thingiverse.com/thing:299...
Makita Adapter : www.thingiverse.com/thing:311...
DeWalt Adapter : www.thingiverse.com/thing:477...
Tiny-e Parkside Adapter : www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
Copper Sheet : s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AoxMyR
Julian's Video : • Parkside 20V 4Ah Batte...
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I am very honored, that my tiny e-Lab was mentioned! 🙏
It is a nice concept and it is worth mentioning.
I keep a favorites playlist of many topics. I’m very sparing in what I add. Maybe four or five a year. And I’m.a heavy RUclips user with a *lot* of diverse interests. It’s amazing how many of your videos end up on that list. Thank you so much for continuing to give me such joy!
You are welcome! So it seems that we share some interests ;-)
2:23 "Because it was the oldest PLA." 👍 I live in the dry desert of Utah and have learned that my "old" PLA doesn't print well because it dries out and becomes brittle. I've found that I can "rejuvenate" it by placing it is a pot of boiling water.
I've heard of PLA absorbing moisture and not printing well and becoming brittle. Is it true that you can overdry the filament?
@@thatrudager It may be rare but this is my experience. For the longest time I thought that my "old" filament had absorbed moisture and needed to be dried. So I tried that but it never helped. Then I learned that new filament is run through water when it is manufactured. I was curious so I placed some of my "old" filament in a boiling pot of water, removed it, and dried it with a paper towel. It printed perfectly. I've been doing this ever since with my "old" filament that doesn't print well anymore.
i've thrown brittle PLA. I thought it was because it absorbed moisture! But i didn't find PLA very sturdy it changes its forms at about 50-60 degrees and i've not been able to print using ABS successfully till date.
Interesting - it begs the question - What is the optimum long term storage humidity level for filament?
Yes! We want more! I just can't get enough of your awesome videos!
Thanks. Working on it!
I also agree
I believe Ryobi brand 18V batteries have undervoltage projection built into the battery. It's pretty uncommon in other brands though.
Thank you for the info. Others mentioned that Makita batteries are also protected. Mine are not, but Lidl replaced mine ;-)
Rob is right here. Ryobi batteries are expensive because they got their protection built-in, that's why the tools are cheaper, too.
They are protected and even showing the battery level, as seen in my project video "Bluetooth Amplifier Case".
Milwaukee has built in protection as well, they even have a temp sensor, and without it it's charger will not charge them.. Ask how I know 😏
For Makita (at least LXT) the protection comes from the tool . There is also a board inside but it does not disconnect - or + .. those go directly to accus
3:20 This is brilliant. I've used spade connectors for this in the past. My solution works but has much to be desired. I'm going to try this next time. Thank you for the many great ideas like this that I get from your videos. 👍
These spade connectors are a bit short and probably not easy to mount. Mine are much longer and inserted in the plastic.
Loved your video! Please do more like this!
Thank you for your feedback!
I absolutely love the X20 Accus. Cheap and powerful Cells up to 20A continuous Discharge. No overprotective BMS, only full Power!
True. If you need the amperes!
Great video for creative makers. Having energy is always import, particularly in a pragmatic way that's ecconomical. So many excellent little tips all nicely wrapped in one video.
Glad you liked the video! Thanks for your feedback.
Very fine solution to portable electronic devices. Thank you all re-inventors.
You are welcome!
I totally agree with the 3D printer being one of the best tool ever owned. My Creality Ender5 has been one of the most used tool within my collection. The soldering station would be one of very few tools used more than the printer
I agree. Same thing here.
Awesome !!!! I didn't even know things like this were existing. For doing electronics on the place the idea of a portable lab is very interesting. it also makes a rather cheap power supply for people that don't need high voltage and high current.
You are right. Most of us only need currents below 5A. The soldering iron is probably one of the higher loads in my lab...
Wonderful video as always. Todays subject got me thinking about setting up some old bosh drill batteries as a portable power source. Thank you.
If they are Li-Ion it is probably worth the effort. My old power tools use NiCd with a very limited capacity...
@@AndreasSpiess yes Bosch 18v Li-Lon battery, thinking about a buck converter to give me stable usb charging. Thank you so much for the inspiration.
I like the idea and convenience of a mobile variable power supply, seems like the ideal thing that a radio ham would build and need. Also, probably a great source of cells for other projects as you said.
Maybe I make once a project on my second channel to power a 13.6V rig with these batteries...
@@AndreasSpiess - I’ve bought one of those variable buck-boost things. I will be making something slightly similar. I’ve got the 12V rig power covered with Tracer batteries but I see an immediate need for a variable voltage thing to provide low voltage inputs for car diagnostics.
I really needed this idea today. Thank you!
Cool. I am always glad if my videos are useful.
I love XT connectors. The fact they are hard to disconnect is a very good thing, they are reliable connections.
I agree. And they are cheaper than Andersen power poles
Fantastic walkthrough of your thoughts and experiences
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Glad you enjoyed it!
I wanted to know about this exact thingies today and this evening I have my answer. Thank you from Colorado.
It is probably already night at your place ;-) I have a lot of good memories if I hear Colorado. Silverton and the Engineer Pass with a 4x4 etc.
@@AndreasSpiess Ha, I use to live in Ouray! Glad you've been above tree line in the beautiful San Juan mountains of southwestern Colorado. Spectacular up there. Thanks for the quick reply.
I edit stl files all the time, saves a lot of time for me. Thank you for another good video.
You are my hero! This must be very difficult.
Pay VERY close attention to the circuit design if you’re working with such batteries. The Parkside ones DONT HAVE INTERNAL REGULATION. I recently found that out while doing similar projects and ran into undervoltage issues. The cells of the battery are literally directly connected to the output terminals. The actual protection of the battery is handled by the tool and not the battery. The battery bms checks the voltage and communicates with the tool over the second pin. The tool gives out a voltage on that pin and the battery bms can pull it low. This tells the circuit in the tool to shut off if the voltage gets too low. So if you use this battery for other things you have to incorporate this communication into your design to actually get protection.
Which is exactly to be expected - it's a battery pack not a PSU. Heck, half this video was about interfacing an actual PSU module to the pack.
Do you have more information about which pin and what voltages it expects to switch the power off?
@@AndreasSpiess it’s been a couple of weeks since I had time to work on this project but I think it’s the pin right next to the negative pin. Actually I think the powertools only have 3 pins so it should be easy to find the correct one. I started by measuring the voltages with a multimeter and it seems like there’s a correlation between the voltage on that pin and the state of charge of the battery. I didn’t have time to look for any digital communication there with my oscilloscope but there might be some as the new smart batteries somehow get told by the tool how much current is drawn (or it might be calculated I’m not sure about that at the moment).
BTW the tools won’t work with other voltage sources except if you place a resistor between the signal pin and ground. So I think the tool creates a voltage on that pin and looks if it’s pulled down or not and possibly how far it’s pulled down. But like I said I didn’t have time to do more testing in the last time. But I might be able to do further testing tomorrow. Maybe you can find out more with your equipment but that’s my current understanding of their bms function
A soldering iron on a 10-meter pole: What could _possibly_ go wrong? 🤣 Thanks for the Fusion360 tip for converting an STL. I hadn't hit that problem yet on my 3D printing adventure -- good to have a solution! 👍️
Everything went well and I got my sonde (and my 50 CHF) ;-)
Hi Andreas. I've really been struggling to understand circuits for under/over protection voltage for batteries and through the link you mentioned for the undervoltage protection design and the comments on that, I am starting to get there as there as some good explanations of parts of the circuit there. I know you have done a video on the subject of voltage supervisors and the circuit in this link helped me understand the concepts a bit better after your video. Thanks, as always.
You are welcome. Here it is more on where they place the circuit. In the tool or in the battery? My tool has it in the tool, which is not the best solution in my mind. Maybe it will change in the future...
@@AndreasSpiess Yes, I agree it is a bit naughty that the under voltage is not in the battery. However, it gives me a chance to use them as they are. Up until now I have stuck to Lifepo4 following an earlier one of your videos comparing battery types. So gives me a chance to use something else. Am already looking at using these for powering some 12v devices (low current) around the house for when we get power cuts, once I have built and tested the undervoltage protection (which seems to need to switch off when it gets down to 15.3v).
that small pointer hand cracks me up!!!
:-)
I don't have any idea what this video is about.... but Im liking it because of the hilarious hand pointer you are using! Love it.
Thanks for watching anyway!
Very useful !! Also loving the Big Clive Hot Pink LOL
I did not know that Big Clive loves this color. But now I know ;-)
Very practical ideas indeed, thank you. Yes a 3d printer can be a very useful tool for all kind of projects and nowadays with relatively affordable entry level models from Crealty, like the ender 3 pro under 200usd, open many possibilities, so glad I got one myself. I like the idea of the mobile power supply, will get me one of those power display modules, thanks for the tip.
You are welcome! These Crealty printers seem to be very popular...
The LIDL batteries have low voltage protection, but they don't have disconnect mosfets. One of the two inner pins is used to signal "power ok" from the battery to the power tool.
Other viewers also wrote that there is a signal about the voltage on one of the middle pins. But I would not call that "protection" because it does not do anything. But maybe you could add it to a FET to switch the power off...
I don't have a 3-D printer, but I use my 18 Volt drill battery to run my soldering pencil. It's got enough juice to build an entire modest-sized project. I also used double-sided PCB material to make tabs that stick into the battery's clips. Some red and some black adhesive heat-shrink tubing over the back-end of the tabs and the wires to connect to an epoxied USB-C+ connector, (also heat-shrunk) for the soldering pencil and it looks like it was done by someone competent.
You are competent if I see what you achieved!
Ha !
this time I was faster and did this already as a christmas project.
This dcdcs are also available as buck boost and you can also set the cut of voltage to protect the battery.Very handy.
Thanks from Bavaria
Good point about the cut-off voltage. Was not aware of that. Thanks.
amazing creativity! thanks for the links!
You are welcome!
Great video once again. Sudden realisation I have not one but two of these batteries in the garage and I have a SQ001 soldering iron which is a clone of the TS,100 got to get printing! However there is a far simpler way of cutting the radiosondes cord and that is to tape a strap cutting safety knife to the top of your pole. Ive used it four times with success. Keep up the great work!
Glad to read that you were successful with a knife. I thought it will not be easy to position it and apply the needed force 10m high.
@@AndreasSpiess Just found out that TS100 firmware has undervoltage protection for lithium cells built in to its latest firmware
Nice video!
You can also import an STL file into openSCAD and make your changes there.
Thanks for the tip! I did not like openSCAD. It is easier for me to draw with the mouse...
@@AndreasSpiess ...and I always found it difficult to get my 3D-ideas with the mouse into a flat screen and then back out. For me it is easier to think in 3D and work directly with the coordinates...
On nice! I bought a Pinecil soldering iron and I've been thinking about making an adaptor for my drill batteries. This is really good advice.
Glad I could help!
Fantastic video, as always. Glad to follow a second channel!
Welcome aboard the second channel!
Great Andreas, many thanks. It was in my mind because I'm thinking to the supply of the far sensors in Home Assistant. Home assistant is another theme that I'm trying to to solve.
You maybe get better solutions to power sensors at 3.3 volts...
Habe vor einigen Tagen genau das gleiche thingiverse Teil für meine lidl Akkus gedruckt 😅einmal auch mit Spannungsregler und einmal als Laptop Zusatzakku. Habe genau die gleiche Erfahrung mit den lidl Akkus gemacht. Billig und gut
Genau. Für einen Laptop sind die ideal!
I dont comment much, but again, another video by Andreas that is of enormous value. Laughed at the "ask my wife who would make a better husband" . You've got it all. and thanks again.
Thank you for your comment. Feedback is always welcome!
This video was kind of an eye opener for me.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice... a quick comment... you can keep pla longer if you keep in controlled humidity. I have pla working perfectly... kept since years. Or at least if you bake out a bit of moisture before using... old pla works like a charm.
I heard of that. For me it is not worthwhile. I experimented once with plastic bags where I removed the air. Now I try to use it faster (buy smaller batches).
I have bought the same exact batteries for the exact same purpose before, for a universal battery solution for robot projects (which never really realized)
So you have now a reason to continue with your robot!
Thanks, very useful!
You're welcome!
what a extremely usefull video today Andreas. Thanks.
Glad you liked it. I thought that these batteries are rarely used and can work more…
I did the same with Einhell batteries. I used simple spade connectors.
Others also mentioned the spade connectors. I thought they are quite short for me.
Many thanks for great content !
My pleasure!
Great video, thanks for the good ideas.
You are welcome!
Second bullet point on what should we keep is important😄
:-)
FWIW, the pink 3d printed parts in the thumbnail first got me curious what this video was about 💟
Pink is good if you search attention, I think ;-)
Would like to see a project worthy of collaboration with great Scott and you.
So far both of us has done collaborations because the effort is very big (at least that is what I think, I did not ask him)
I also like the videos of "great scott". Maybe there will be a cooperation video with this channel? He lives about 200km away from your location, maybe you can even reach him with some radio signals?
That would be awesome
Of course I asked him before I published the video. But so far none of us have done collaborations AFAIK. Too difficult and time-consuming for our busy channels :-(
A friend of mine and me created a universal attachment system for all major powertool manufacturers' batteries, that allows to stack various modules on top of it. So far we've made USB and notebook powerbanks, LED worklights, a bluetooth speaker kit and various lab power supplies based on chinese stepdown modules with LED voltmeter. It's so useful once you start with that system.. and 18V at a few Ah can get you quite far.
Cool! Did you publish your work for others to use?
@@AndreasSpiess It's going up on Gitlab when I'm done sorting the files and putting some basic descriptions etc together, yes.
I guess a simple knife at the end of the stick would have been too boring :-) Impressing however, how much self-made and knowledge you got in this video
I started with a knife and scissors but at 10 high it would not be easy to position and apply the needed force for a cut. Heat works in a fraction of a second. Positioning was not difficult.
Andreas, my favorite laid-back RUclipsr after a British traveler ❤️
:-)
@@AndreasSpiess yes the laid-back British is The Tim Traveler
I bought the Lidl soldering iron great basic iron that I use on site.
I also have tools from Lidl. For me as a casual user price/performance is good.
That's Big Clive pink, great project though. These battery packs are going to be useful for powering all sorts. Manufacturers seem to be settling on 18V but a shame they can't standardize the connection.
My workshop is still 100% hand tools but need to invest in a cordless drill soon. Problem is deciding which manufacture to commit to.
Sellers hate standards. Purchasers love standards ;-)
For my floodlight i have also 3D printed the case and the contacts is brass strip of 0.8x6mm (from modelcraft store)
Brass strip is 30cm before i cut them.
A very good idea! That seems to be a perfect fit!
Great video as always - Informative, factual AND entertaining. Your 3D printing section was very helpful. Brand new to the Prusa machine, I am hoping to produce small custom electronics parts (mounts, enclosures, adapters, etc.) as you do (so well). Was Fusion 360 a bit of a challenge? It intimidates me.
Fusion360 or any other such tool is confusing in the beginning. A lot of work in front of you. But rewarding!
Lovely ideas - my project list gets longer and longer !
Very good. Then you can choose according your mood ;-)
8:30 You said "Ask my wife who would be the better husband." You made me laugh too hard! I had to explain my outburst. 😁
I am glad I made you laugh!
I use spade terminals for connection to the battery pack instead of a metal sheet and also use an XH-M609 very cheap on Ali for battery protection. Hope it helps
I did not know these XH-M609 (because I not often work with 12 volts. What about the relay? Does it not consume a lot of current while on? Or is it bistable?
@@AndreasSpiess Hi Andreass I think the relay is monostable. I do not know how much current it consumes while on but the thing is that you can adjust the on and off power from 12v to 36V and adjust when the relay switches on and off wiith a voltage dfference. This might help ruclips.net/video/BNb6NJVhQpo/видео.html. So I think is a great cheap choice for external protection on battery packs that does not have the onboard protection :). Finally there is the XH-M604 that goes from 6V to 60V. Hope it helps.
ok, I need a versatile smartphone charger that uses those power tool batteries
Just do it ;-)
The new Parkside Smart Battery has an under-voltage protection and you can get even 8Ah version... Which is huuuuge!
Just checked: It is much more expensive! And the 4Ah seems to be too high. The dimension suggests that it has 18650 batteries in series. The old ones were marked 2000mAh and I never saw a battery with 4000mAh. The biggest I saw was around 3500.
@@AndreasSpiess They are actually not using 18650 in the Performance ones but 20700.
Aha. Thanks! I already wondered because Lidl usually does not write false values on their products
I like cheap leetle battories and support this channel
:-)
I thought the pink print was a nod to Big Clive.
:-))
Nice video ! I guess my workshop comes closer to yours than to GreatScott.... not too clean and organized... and of course, we're always in for some action too !
Like all bikers we need a little action. But I have colleagues who clean their Harleys more than GreatScott his lab ;-)
Ask my wife who would be the better husband, cracked me up 🤣🤣🤣
:-)
Blender is a free and powerful open source software that can import stl and many other 3D formats that you can edit and save as stl for 3D printing. It does have a learning curve, but there is a plethora of instructional videos.
Thank you for the tip.
PCB spade connectors is what I use - of the shelf item.
Are they long enough to mount them properly in the plastic?
Thanks for sharing, like it :)
Thanks for the visit!
I did a Dewalt battery adapter in 2018 and put it on Thingiverse and it has been my most popular download.
I can imagine. DeWalt seems to be very popular...
Worked on something like that a while ago, measured everything and modelled it in Solvespace because it's awesome without a mouse (also works with the space navigator but I haven't used it in a while). I Planned to use a small bit of PCB with 6.3mm fastin connectors, the PCB just for the structure and the wires on the opposite side of the connectors.
Didn't print it because I was out of resin (found out the estimation of the volume is wayyy off). In the end I just took the 18V to usb Adapter and soldered it's blade connector to the power tool I wanted to adapt because my system (Einhell) didn't had this kind of tool.
I'll probably build a adapter to Milwaukee at some point because the Impact driver of Einhell is literally useless and I doubt they'll make a bigger version soon.
Also I plan to make a 12V DC or mains to Einhell Adapter at some point since I've switched to only battery tools for everything and sometimes when power is available it would be pointless to use the battery (for example battery drill in a holder as drill press for straighter holes).
And for the last part: as long as you find everything it's clean enough, just push the stuff to the side if you need more space. I'm too creative to waste my time to let my workspace always look like it's part of the IKEA catalogue.
So you have a lot of work in front of you. Good you do not use all the time for cleaning your lab ;-)
@@AndreasSpiess I already have enough projects for the next couple years, the two limiting factors are the money I have and the amount of time I spend at work. I enjoy my job but I'd also enjoy more time with my projects.
Heads-up: the full version of Fusion 360 is free for hobbyist use and comes with no limitations on functionality: only the cloud use is a little limited, but barely.
You are right.
Parkside had the same idea ;) Check for "Parkside 20V Cordless Soldering Station". I have "Parkside Cordless Soldering Iron 4 V" and it works fine as well. Tools batteries are versatile. I want to use my for power HAM radio field operations.
You are right. In the meantime I also saw it in my Lidl store...
the funny thing with lidl/aldi budget battery packs is, that they are equally 18v just as their more expensive premium brand counterparts.
but i guess some clever marketing dude thought that bigger is better, and slapped 20V (and 40V) stickers on them
Indeed, a good trick because it is not wrong (5x4.2=21V) and for most men, bigger is better ;-)
@@AndreasSpiess really depends on what number we pull out from the hat: 4.2V or 3.7V = which then results 21V or 18.5V respectively. also a neat thing with Lidl: their next generation batteries even have bluetooth - charge can be monitored with the app, or by other "maker" means. this is worth a quickie
Thanks for this handy topic. I did not now I needed one because I did not now this exists but now I do, Ineed to build a complete tiny-e Lab on batteries for mobile use😂
Beware of Makita batteries. These have a special function in the BMS which marks a battery as a bad/broken battery as soon as the voltage drops too far.
From that point on, an original Makita charger will refuse to charge this battery.
Li-Ion batteries can get dangerous after a deep discharge. Maybe that is the reason for Makita's decision...
For small modifications to STL file, like adding a hole or cavity, I find TinkerCAD is the quickest and easiest to use. You're not getting the features of Fusion or OpenSCAD that's for sure, but you also don't have the complexity of that software to deal with (like how many faces fusion wants to create with an imported STL in the free version).
Thank you for the information!
Thank you for that Fusion 360 tip! I have been editing STL files in Blender and it was very uncomfortable.
You are welcome!
I dont have view video, but this a great idea. For non professional user of batterie tools (just sometime to repair or made something), we have in stock batteries that never be used. Blue thumb and i'm going to view video later. Thanks
I hope you enjoyed the video!
@@AndreasSpiess I don't doubt it. All your videos are excellent.
The upcoming release of Solvespace has added stl import too. I haven't used that feature yet, but I imagine it works similarly: add or subtract volume.
Thank you for the information!
When you finally switch to a PrusaSlicer you can do all modifications you've made in Fusion directly in the slicer by using modificators 😉
Cool! Thanks for the tip.
i mkae my own makita packs from aliexpress sets and scraped 18650 rom old laptop batteries works like a charm
Cool!
I am using a 12V Metabo battery with an original power adapter which provides 5V USB, and 12V to supply my ICOM transceiver outdoors.
Both are good use cases (if the buck converter is RF quiet, of course)...
Short and sweet
Thank you!
If low price and longevity is youre primary concern. I suggest making you're own battery packs.
And honestly it's not very hard,.Theirs quite a videos out their but to summarise, cell quality makes a difference so for best performace buy new Sony or Panasonic cells.. in my personal experience I use a mix of makita and homemade batteries every day.the ones I build myself stay good for about 1.5- 2 years of hard use, which Is the same, if not more than the free official makita ones you get when buying tool packs... The initial cost is more than the Lidl but when you're batteries start losing their capacity you just replace the cells, keep the casing and power controller thus making their 2nd and 3rd life as cheap or cheaper than those lidl ones.
Also a good solution. I do not think I would be able to create my own battery pack for that price. The shipping of batteries has become cumbersome these days.
Last weekend, I was doing some gardening and I thought, I heared a strange noise echoing thru the air... It sounded like "F.... YOU SCOTT!!!!", but very damp, like it has come straight over the Bodensee to Bavaria.
??
ref: 7:00
Fusion 360 is a great tool, but for a models like this, the learning overhead would be a lot less making it in openSCAD.
I tried openSCAD and for me, its learning curve was much steeper than with Fusion. But I am more a visual person...
@@AndreasSpiess I would also say that I am a very visual person, but maybe more internal. I will visualize what I want to make and then break it down to the forms needed before i start.
The battery connector box can be made from about 30 lines of text using cube(), cylinder(), transfer(), difference() and minkowski(). The last is to make rounded corners.
I agree that any programming language can have a first step that is a little high, but using the built in examples should help.
There is also a lot of free models and model generators.
It is also nice that I can run openSCAD on Linux, even run it on a raspberry pi. :-)
Tinkercad also can import stl files, although not a proper cad system it can achieve remarkable things
Thank you for the information!
I already have a soldering iron from parkside that uses that kind of bateries xp
Cool! I never saw this one in our store...
Very nice video as usual. 73!
Thank you!
Also in Tinkercad you can import and modify STLs
Thank you for the info!
Nice use of power tool battery pack ! Yes I often 3dprint 1off projects with whatever material is loaded and regret the color later. Are these a good option for our portable projects ? You have smaller powerpacks in your excel sheet. They may meet a need for a readily available and well packaged 5000 mAh pack , 19V might be good for motors and relays but too high for controllers. Also can they be recharged by readily available solar chargers ?
Lidl sells two pack sizes with 5 or 10 batteries. So you have a choice if your project needs a lot of power. The power source for mobile projects always depends on the needs. Most of my MCO/sensor projects are better off with a single-cell solution. My Radios need 13.6 volts and more power. So this could be a possibility (with a buck converter).
1:16 I would throw that Lipo away. It looks badly puffed up. It will burn most certainly. Buy one from Swaytronic😉
It is like that for a few years already. So far no problems :-)
@@AndreasSpiess Yes i know but i also had one for my rc plane and everyone told me to throw it away until suddenly it catched fire while charging. The cost of fixing my garage was 10x higher than just buying a new battery. Do what you want :)
But..
Great scott is the best...💯💯💯💯💯😁😁
Of course. We all know that!
For those of us with too many DVMs and Scopes and not enough space for a 3d printer do you recommend any 'mail order' printing places (e.g. pcb makers, etc)?
I never used such services because I have my own printer :-(
I use dimes on contacts for most drill batteries
A good idea if the material is solderable...
@@AndreasSpiess ya I just have uses it to check voltage and maybe charge with just a bench power supply so I just put alligator clips on them
Love the idea of a portable power supply. Espcially with all those power tool batteries lying idle most of the time. Did you use the undervoltage protection circuit, If so is there any issue with hysteresis?
I did not care about under voltage protection. These batteries are extremely powerful and I never deplete one with sensors and microcontrollers. But maybe it would be a good idea.
Anyway, I think, the newer ones have to have it built in. At least in Europe it is no more allowed to sell unprotected batteries.
3D-printing has in some ways revolutionized power tool game (and many other things) for us hobbyists. Almost every possible cordless power tool has a Chinese clone available and they "all" use Makita batteries. That's fantastic for those using Makita ecosystem, but 3D printing brings those same cheap tools for us who are using different tool ecosystems. And it's not just about converting from one brand to another, but also for adapting old tools to use new batteries.
Inspiring video. Cheers!
Indeed we Makers and our 3D-printers have many opportunities!
I just finished a modification to my older 14V Dewalt flashlight. My newer 20V li-ion LED flashlight that I love has started strobing and I can't figure out why so I went back to my older one. It' has the old incandecent bulb, nimh battery with a weaker yellow beam (sigh). Then I thought about some of your testing with boost converters. I took it apart and found 3.9 ohm resistor in series with the bulb so a fully charged 16+V battery didn't burn out the 14V bulb (battery 16.8V - 3V drop across the resistor = 13.8V to the bulb which drops even more with the battery voltage). I swapped the resistor for a 3A adjustable buck/boost regulator inside the handle and adjusted it to 14V. Yeessss...much much better. No under voltage protection (I don't think the batteries are protected) though, but I've used up the batteries many times with the portable tools so maybe not an issue as long as I don't walk off and leave it on. There's not much more room in the handle to add a pre-made low voltage cutout circuit since the older battery packs have that tall post that fits half way up inside. But, this was easy and fun thanks to your video.
Edit: I've tried it every nite and it works great. When the battery voltage drops below 10V the light suddenly dims and I hear a high pitch whine. No damage, works fine with a fresh battery. Board is a red XL6009 buck boost converter with dual 330 inductors and blue trim pot approx 48mm x 25mm.
Edit again: I ordered some white LED flashlight bulbs (PR2,P13.5S size) 18V since I can adjust but 12V is probably a better choice. Long wait from China but I'll update in case anyone else wants to try it. This is easy and these lights are expensive.
Edit: I've compared two of these flashlights. Again the fully charged 14.4V battery measures 16.49V. When charged the stock unmodified light w/tungsten bulb draws 0.720A and the light with the boost/buck converter draws 0.820A. So at a loss of 12.5% capacity initially I get a brighter light. I don't think this is useful with new functioning batteries, but it does allow me to take some old batteries that are basically useless and get maybe 20-25% of their original capacity for a flashlight. I'm writing this project off to experience, I was very impressed with the boost/buck converter, and plan to try it again on something different that uses alkaline batteries where there is maybe 50% capacity left when they get replaced. We'll see. I'm keeping the converter. When the 18V LED bulbs I ordered arrive I'll need it to crank up the voltage for them and I will use it in the future.
Cool solution!
I use 2 coins and clip wire to connect my Cigarette phone charger to a battery pack(devon 20v). It doesn’t have bms (but it’s ok I have b6) but one thing is I didn’t know the low voltage protection is in the battery or in the drill.If you want to use the battery for other Purpose, find the battery which have indicator one.
Interesting solution with the coins. The Lidl batteries have a voltage indicator, too. But you have to look at it ;-)
@@AndreasSpiess Hi Andreas. I remember you have a video where you "hacked" a 4-bar LED Li-ion battery charge indicator - maybe you could do the same for this battery and its indicator, so you don't have to watch it? Just guessing.
I have used a standard crimp Spade connector to recharge a Laptop PC battery whose internal charging had ceased to work. But mine were simply shoved into the battery, nothing like your Rosey one.
I wish I had space for a 3D Printer. I wish I had some spare cash for a 3D Printer. 🙂
Indeed, these printers need both, space and money. But they are useful...
Ha, the application for a mobile solder iron remembered me back in time where I was proud on my refillable gas solder pen when I had to solder something far from the wall socket.
But now I enter my 8th year of 3dprinting experience and
can let me inspire from Scott's and your videos 👍
Anyway since F360 has f.... d the "free" license users by cutting export and cnc routing functions it's dead for me and I ve gone back to good ole freeCad where you can also import stl and transfer to bodies for editing.
PS what about corrosion of the copper conductors in outdoor use? Does it lead into issues?
Corrosion of the copper contacts outdoors. If the battery is removed and recharged frequently the contacts are to some extent self cleaning. For better protection a simple way is to simply tin them with solder.
@matneu27: I sold my CNC because I did not use it often after I got my 3D printer and cheap Chinese PCBs...
@matneu27 You were using fusion with a 5axis CNC were you? And you are complaining about a license fee. Well that is interesting. Because of course you'd know that Maker Fusion still supports 2 and 3 axis CAM. As for your claim about export, you can still export these formats *.3mf, *.f3d, *.f3z, *.fbx, *.iam, *.ipt, *.obj, *.skp, *.smt, *.step, *.stl, *.stp So I'm really not sure at all what your issue is. looks like you fell for the whining from the uninformed "my free lunch!!" brigade without doing any actual research. Typical.