Good video Roger covering an area not often discussed. I’m not a fan of condensers myself and they are quite bright compared to diffusers - my problem is often not enough light as I like slow papers and also lith printing.
Great! I would want to tell noobs that an aperture stop, say for example from f/5.6 to f/8 should give double time, just like in a camera. And the higher apertures give longer depth of field, just like in a camera, in case of bulging paper like I saw you had on a test strip.
Great explanation Roger 👍, another great way is to use a longer lens in the enlarger. I always use a 80mm lens for 35mm film and a 105mm lens for 6x6. I miss the buckets 😅, cheers 👍
Thank you sir for a informative video. Most of the time in analog photography, we stuck in camera and film but darkroom is as important aspect. Though i don't have a darkroom, i feel its an important video for people like me who may have it some day and print the pictures rather than scanning. Many thanks.
one other point, for beginners, like myself, if you use short times, it allows errors to have a greater effect, aka if you accidentally set 3.3 vs 33.3 sec. by mis programming the timer, or don't account for filter grades, etc. ; Also in school darkrooms it gets busy, so this long time allows there to be a space in the trays for the paper, as the time has allowed more space for other work to progress through to the next tray, as the 'train' has moved on.
I would also suggest use a longer lens. I used my 80 when I was making postcards from 35mm. With the 50 it would take maybe 3 or 4 seconds at f16. I'm getting around 12 seconds at f11 with the 80mm lens. Only issue is you can't print big this way.
I use a Jobo 7451 (= LPL Saunders 4500II in other markets), which is a pretty sold enlarger up to 4x5. If I enlarge 4x5 (hot that often), I use a 150 mm lens. I have never run into much problems with 4x5 though, probably because they are all single shot, single development and thin negatives simply don‘t happen. With 6x6 I also do not have issues all that often. MAybe I am shooting it with more care, usually using at least a tripod. With 35 mm I sometimes do have problems though. One thing that helps here is to use an 80 mm lens, that is originally for 6x6. I have a 50 mm lens, but I have stopped using it. First of all: Why hassle with changing, but more important: THe 80 offers the same quality but adds a bit of distance. So the printing times get longer.
Excellent as always Could you make a comparison between condenser and diffused light enlargers I used to use and to love condenser enlargers I’ m thinking to buy a new difussed light lamp house for my enlarger so any suggestion will be very apprechiated Thanks in advance
I don't have a diffused head to compare. All I can say is with a diffused enlarger the prints would be less contrasty as they are less intense as a condensed enlarger like mine. Also because of the scattered light on a diffused head it helps a great deal with any dust on the negative, less noticeable.
If you have a colourhead you can put all colors at the same reading like 30 or 40. that is the same as an ND filter. Then If you need a filter setting you just add more yellow or magenta.
Hello Roger great video, I think a ND filter could help to manage a dodge or burning process. By the way an underexposed film will be a problem forever. Tks
Fixing a thin negatív is easy. Glued the film to a 4mm thick glass pieces with red jello gelatin. You can increase the exp. time up to 3 hours - depending upon how red is your jello .☺
I think the hardest time I have managing enlarger exposure time is when I'm printing color. Last time I did that, I was getting 10 second times with the lens set to f/11 and a 2-stop ND filter over it. (Of course color paper is a lot more sensitive than B&W paper.) Of course my enlarger being somewhat bright, I have ND filters for all my enlarger lenses. Its not uncommon to need to use them, especially when making 8x10 prints. (Its a big 4x5-capable diffusion enlarger that takes a hallogen bulb, so I kinda want to stick with what it came with... even if it is a bit on the bright side.)
I usually make prints from about the same format on the same size. I always go to f32 cause I don’t have to count the clicks in the dark. Realizing I could work faster if I open it up. Usually about 35 seconds on a straight print which I don’t needddd
Just the video I needed! Although I already had some idea... I got a Soviet portable enlarger (upa something, in a suitcase) that came with an original bulb, which I replaced: it was really getting hot. I put a small led bulb and I still get short times... but well, I’m doing tiny prints (9*12cm) so probably the head is very close to the paper. Also the aperture closes at max f.11 in the industar lens. Will keep working on it anyway, it’s a lot of fun! Any thoughts on led bulbs for this purpose?
A few seconds is fine if you have the print looking good in that time without needing to dodge or burn. I've never used LED on the enlarger. I imagine they would be cooler if they are specified for photographic enlargers.
I have the opposite "problem". My times are over 50s a lot of times. But yeah, printing a 35mm negative on 8x10 paper with contrast filters is gonna do that.
Hi Roger, wondering what fixer you are using? I’m struggling with the fumes in my darkroom despite installing a fan. I’m using Ilfords fixer a present put thinking of swapping to Bellini FX100 eco. I know you don’t vent your darkroom which I’m amazed you don’t get headaches! I’m convinced it’s the fixer that is the most toxic but could be wrong? All the best Graham
I open my door in between prints. Still fixer gets a bit powerful! I've just started using fotospeed oderless fixer. Before I used fotospeed normal fixer. Seems to be not as smelly
The speed of the paper is another variable, and I think Kentmere is faster than Ilford Multigrade RC, which can be helpful if you are making large prints.
I tested kentmere against Ilford a while back, and found it was nearly a stop faster. I would be very interested in your findings. Enjoying your channel. Thanks Ted
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ooh ok, cool. Well i shot a landscape on my mamiya rb67 and used f32 on the camera lens, then on my enlarger also used f32 and i really started thinking maybe i'd be losing sharpness lol. Thanks for the answer legend.
I asked you about this issue some time ago and you said my negatives were "thin" so i measured them with a Micrometer, .0045 inche i believe. I did get a New Camera this one is an OM-1 md which is one i have wanted for years, I even sent it off for complete refurbishment. I will be retiring by end of this year (3 years early) . so the wife and i can travel the country and take alot of photos, maybe do a little fishing. I was wondering if you could do a quick video on decent scanners,, I plan to build a dark room at our new house (gotta sell this one), I will get to a point were i wont be about to pick up alot of the stuff involved, you see i have been taking tests all summer is the verdict is PMA which is like the Diet Coke of ALS, takes 2 to 3 years longer but the result is the same, Slowly you loose the strength of your muscles, then you die. (which explains the early retirement) So i want to make sure my wife has lots of pictures to put up.
I don't have a decent scanner so really wouldn't be able to make a video. When I scan medium format I use my DSLR. And for 35mm I use a Kenro Film scanner. It's cheap and doesn't give me a decent printable jpg but it's okay for digitising and referencing my negs. Retirement plan sounds fun! I don't fish at all. Tried it a few times.
@@Powerwashincrocs I was saying that you can't put detail where none exists. I was referring to making a print with shadow detail. Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights. I have done Kodalith breakdowns, removed the silver and colored the emulsion with dyes and sandwiched them together in registration. But my comment was making a "normal" print.
Ilfords EM10 darkroom light meter is a gem as well, saves tons of time and paper being able to meter for your paper like you would for your film. Any light meter will do though, phone, spot meter or camera. A longer focal length lens will help making smaller prints, ie. 80mm lens for 35mm film on 5x7 prints will help get that head up. ND gels are cheap as chips, a 20x24 sheet is only a couple dollars (Rosco) and can be cut to fit on top of the condenser glass or anywhere else in the light path. 1/2 stop gel let’s you really fine tune light intensity by layering up to decrease light transmission.
Good video Roger covering an area not often discussed. I’m not a fan of condensers myself and they are quite bright compared to diffusers - my problem is often not enough light as I like slow papers and also lith printing.
Cheers Steve, I've never tried a diffuser. I'd like to. From what I've read dust isn't so much of a problem.
This is why you’re my favorite photographer to follow on RUclips.
Great!
I would want to tell noobs that an aperture stop, say for example from f/5.6 to f/8 should give double time, just like in a camera.
And the higher apertures give longer depth of field, just like in a camera, in case of bulging paper like I saw you had on a test strip.
Thank you, Professor Roger! Truly the best darkroom class available!
Great explanation Roger 👍, another great way is to use a longer lens in the enlarger. I always use a 80mm lens for 35mm film and a 105mm lens for 6x6. I miss the buckets 😅, cheers 👍
Ha ha cheers P
Great video. The truth is most of the issues encountered in the darkroom are related to how the negative was captured.
Thank you sir for a informative video. Most of the time in analog photography, we stuck in camera and film but darkroom is as important aspect. Though i don't have a darkroom, i feel its an important video for people like me who may have it some day and print the pictures rather than scanning. Many thanks.
Folks you can buy big rolls of nd filter online and then cut them into square for your trays. Or get a smaller wattage bulb.
one other point, for beginners, like myself, if you use short times, it allows errors to have a greater effect, aka if you accidentally set 3.3 vs 33.3 sec. by mis programming the timer, or don't account for filter grades, etc. ; Also in school darkrooms it gets busy, so this long time allows there to be a space in the trays for the paper, as the time has allowed more space for other work to progress through to the next tray, as the 'train' has moved on.
I would also suggest use a longer lens. I used my 80 when I was making postcards from 35mm. With the 50 it would take maybe 3 or 4 seconds at f16. I'm getting around 12 seconds at f11 with the 80mm lens. Only issue is you can't print big this way.
Just got a durst m370 colour and any exposure time above 3 seconds sends my paper jet black even when the lens is stopped down
I use a Jobo 7451 (= LPL Saunders 4500II in other markets), which is a pretty sold enlarger up to 4x5. If I enlarge 4x5 (hot that often), I use a 150 mm lens. I have never run into much problems with 4x5 though, probably because they are all single shot, single development and thin negatives simply don‘t happen.
With 6x6 I also do not have issues all that often. MAybe I am shooting it with more care, usually using at least a tripod.
With 35 mm I sometimes do have problems though. One thing that helps here is to use an 80 mm lens, that is originally for 6x6. I have a 50 mm lens, but I have stopped using it. First of all: Why hassle with changing, but more important: THe 80 offers the same quality but adds a bit of distance. So the printing times get longer.
I asked a question on another video about how you work out the aperture for your prints, this video answered it. Thank you.
Would short distances between the paper and enlarger also contribute to over/underexposed prints??
Excellent as always
Could you make a comparison between condenser and diffused light enlargers
I used to use and to love condenser enlargers
I’ m thinking to buy a new difussed light lamp house for my enlarger so any suggestion will be very apprechiated
Thanks in advance
I don't have a diffused head to compare. All I can say is with a diffused enlarger the prints would be less contrasty as they are less intense as a condensed enlarger like mine. Also because of the scattered light on a diffused head it helps a great deal with any dust on the negative, less noticeable.
If you have a colourhead you can put all colors at the same reading like 30 or 40. that is the same as an ND filter. Then If you need a filter setting you just add more yellow or magenta.
Master class in ten minutes
Hello Roger great video, I think a ND filter could help to manage a dodge or burning process. By the way an underexposed film will be a problem forever. Tks
Fixing a thin negatív is easy. Glued the film to a 4mm thick glass pieces with red jello gelatin. You can increase the exp. time up to 3 hours - depending upon how red is your jello .☺
Print on the dense negative was actually nice. I liked it
I don't have a darkroom but your videos really help to understand the chemistry and the tricks behind film photography 🙂
Thanks for inspiring me. Could almost smell the chemicals while watching this. Need to set-up my stuff in the bathroom tomorrow!
I think the hardest time I have managing enlarger exposure time is when I'm printing color. Last time I did that, I was getting 10 second times with the lens set to f/11 and a 2-stop ND filter over it. (Of course color paper is a lot more sensitive than B&W paper.)
Of course my enlarger being somewhat bright, I have ND filters for all my enlarger lenses. Its not uncommon to need to use them, especially when making 8x10 prints.
(Its a big 4x5-capable diffusion enlarger that takes a hallogen bulb, so I kinda want to stick with what it came with... even if it is a bit on the bright side.)
This is exactly what I was looking for. Wonderful. Thank you!
I usually make prints from about the same format on the same size. I always go to f32 cause I don’t have to count the clicks in the dark. Realizing I could work faster if I open it up. Usually about 35 seconds on a straight print which I don’t needddd
Great video Roger. One thing I find since I work with two different formats is my Durst times are shorter than my Beseler.
Is the Bessler a diffuser ?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It's a condenser, or what I believe they call a cold head. The bulb is 150 watt.
Such a clear and helpful explanation. Thank you.
thank so much Boss ,very very nice video help me a Lot .
Just the video I needed! Although I already had some idea... I got a Soviet portable enlarger (upa something, in a suitcase) that came with an original bulb, which I replaced: it was really getting hot. I put a small led bulb and I still get short times... but well, I’m doing tiny prints (9*12cm) so probably the head is very close to the paper. Also the aperture closes at max f.11 in the industar lens. Will keep working on it anyway, it’s a lot of fun! Any thoughts on led bulbs for this purpose?
A few seconds is fine if you have the print looking good in that time without needing to dodge or burn. I've never used LED on the enlarger. I imagine they would be cooler if they are specified for photographic enlargers.
Great Tutorial. Thanks for the explanation and taking the time to make this video
I have the opposite "problem". My times are over 50s a lot of times. But yeah, printing a 35mm negative on 8x10 paper with contrast filters is gonna do that.
Hi Roger, wondering what fixer you are using? I’m struggling with the fumes in my darkroom despite installing a fan. I’m using Ilfords fixer a present put thinking of swapping to Bellini FX100 eco. I know you don’t vent your darkroom which I’m amazed you don’t get headaches! I’m convinced it’s the fixer that is the most toxic but could be wrong?
All the best
Graham
I open my door in between prints. Still fixer gets a bit powerful! I've just started using fotospeed oderless fixer. Before I used fotospeed normal fixer. Seems to be not as smelly
The speed of the paper is another variable, and I think Kentmere is faster than Ilford Multigrade RC, which can be helpful if you are making large prints.
I had some Ilford delivered yesterday. I'll have to try that against kentmere.. Cheers.
I tested kentmere against Ilford a while back, and found it was nearly a stop faster. I would be very interested in your findings. Enjoying your channel. Thanks Ted
any advice to help with thin negtive? thanks
Thin negs are difficult to deal with. Scan or print.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss in the darkroom, i print it with no contrast, even set contrast 5 using ilford paper. i think i should give it up now
email the neg if you can roglowe147@gmail.com and I'll have a look and help you if I can.
Great explanation!! Do you think an aperture of f22 or f32 would affect the sharpness of the print? Thank you, you're the man
I shouldn't think so Ricky. I don't have a f32 lens to try. I know on my enlarger lens for 35mm f2.8 makes the print soft from the center outwards.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ooh ok, cool. Well i shot a landscape on my mamiya rb67 and used f32 on the camera lens, then on my enlarger also used f32 and i really started thinking maybe i'd be losing sharpness lol. Thanks for the answer legend.
Excellent video Roger. Very interesting.
Cheers Andrew.
thank you so much i really needed his video
You're welcome
great job.you do darkroom printing in colors?
Not yet!
Great Video!
Great vid Roger.
Valuable information, thank you
Interesting as ever Boss.
Thank you! Liked/Subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
I asked you about this issue some time ago and you said my negatives were "thin" so i measured them with a Micrometer, .0045 inche i believe. I did get a New Camera this one is an OM-1 md which is one i have wanted for years, I even sent it off for complete refurbishment. I will be retiring by end of this year (3 years early) . so the wife and i can travel the country and take alot of photos, maybe do a little fishing. I was wondering if you could do a quick video on decent scanners,, I plan to build a dark room at our new house (gotta sell this one), I will get to a point were i wont be about to pick up alot of the stuff involved, you see i have been taking tests all summer is the verdict is PMA which is like the Diet Coke of ALS, takes 2 to 3 years longer but the result is the same, Slowly you loose the strength of your muscles, then you die. (which explains the early retirement) So i want to make sure my wife has lots of pictures to put up.
I don't have a decent scanner so really wouldn't be able to make a video. When I scan medium format I use my DSLR. And for 35mm I use a Kenro Film scanner. It's cheap and doesn't give me a decent printable jpg but it's okay for digitising and referencing my negs. Retirement plan sounds fun! I don't fish at all. Tried it a few times.
🙌🏼
Loved this one m8 :-) Full of info :-)
❤❤❤
Thin negatives lack shadow detail. You can never make a decent print with an underexposed negative.
You can if you lith print it. Lith printing lends itself to work well with thin negatives.
@@Powerwashincrocs I was saying that you can't put detail where none exists. I was referring to making a print with shadow detail. Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights. I have done Kodalith breakdowns, removed the silver and colored the emulsion with dyes and sandwiched them together in registration. But my comment was making a "normal" print.
I gotcha, makes total sense.
Yeah, surprisingly interesting for you, who would have thought lol 😂
Pipe down fishermans friend I've got new cups coming
Shoot Film Like a Boss oo!, hear you deary, the cup king
1 -2 seconds is not short at all, I have a Besseler 23 and it gives me 0.1 secs., using a 105mm @f16 lens and ilfrobrom paper from 1980... XD
Stop the enlarger lens down. End of story
Ilfords EM10 darkroom light meter is a gem as well, saves tons of time and paper being able to meter for your paper like you would for your film. Any light meter will do though, phone, spot meter or camera.
A longer focal length lens will help making smaller prints, ie. 80mm lens for 35mm film on 5x7 prints will help get that head up.
ND gels are cheap as chips, a 20x24 sheet is only a couple dollars (Rosco) and can be cut to fit on top of the condenser glass or anywhere else in the light path. 1/2 stop gel let’s you really fine tune light intensity by layering up to decrease light transmission.
Good info. Cheers.