I'm a collector. I have in my collection proof sets from 1958 to present. Silver proof sets from 1992 to present. Uncirculated sets from 1952 to present, (several from 1956 to 1964 unopened). These and the rest of my collection are for my children and grandchildren.
Outstanding. I collect proof issues and break open sets for my custom binder albums w/Lighthouse Quadrum Intercept capsules and Encap pages. I only collect graded proofs not available raw such as rarities or pre 1965 which go into Lighthouse "slab" Encap pages that fit in the same album binders as the capsules...thereby keeping capsule and slabs of an entire coin series in the same location and storage system for viewing. Great video series Dan!
Great advice about the sets. The thing I do different is if all the Uncirculated sets show problems or quite variable quality among the coins then I simply choose the best from the sets and encapsulate them. I found I had to do this with 5 1981 sets I inherited. Also a 1970 uncirculated set I needed to save the best coins and the Kennedy as some of the others did not take kindly to the cellophane or movement within the packet. I don't do coin books right now. Maybe down the line I will but for now coin capsules and SAFLIp in ziplock bags which are then stored in non PVC plastic containers (Staples offers nice ones of variable sizes and opaque that are pretty good for storage). Let me add , I do not have any expensive rare coins - definitely some of good value but nothing at the moment where I would send it in for grading. One series of sets I would keep in the OGP IF the packaging is intact and the coins are in good shape - the "satin finish" Uncirculated sets from 2005 - 2010, especially the 2009 one. Some of the clad coins suffer from spotting (especially the 2009 cents) so if you have a set that is in good shape probably best to keep it in the OGP unless you do buy a few and break out those for an album as you wisely suggest. TO me the satin finish sets and business strikes of 2005 - 2010 offer some sleepers worth checking into for collectors. In particular high grade business strike coins from those years as they are NOT found in the Mint sets, they would have been gotten only through rolls sold by the Mint and now available on the secondary market. You can also find some nice Mint state business strike coins once in awhile from these years. It is uncommon but possible, especially the quarters as it seems collctors sometimes use them if they are paring down their collection. This leads me to a suggestion for another video - why not look at the years since 1950 when the US Mint did not produce Mint sets as well as Mint sets NOT with business strike coins (such as 2005 - 2010). You would be looking at the coins of 1950, 1982, 1982 and then 2005 - 2010. You could do a part two to include those years coins were available only in Mint sets but not in circulation such as the 1970 and 1987 Kennedys as well as those after 2001; Sacs and Native Americans from 2012 onward; the last few Presidential dollars that were not put into circulation (although you do find them once in awhile). It would be useful to collectors as this is an area that can be confusing but an opportunity for collecting some scarce sleepers as well as be a good opportunity for dealers to clear some oversupply of such stock that is a little undervalued.
Morning Daniel!!🍵 I cracked out the 80's and 90's ones to fill albums. The albums I have are full. Now I buy them and leave them intact. I see no need to put them in albums any longer. I have plenty of pre-clad spaces yet to fill!!😊
Something else to consider. Proof and mint sets vary in size across the years. Individual slabbed coins from NGC are all the same size as other NGC slabs, and likewise storing PCGS slabs with other PCGS slabs. You can more easily store slabbed coins together in trays. You can also more easily store albums, by placing them in sleeves. Also, stored coins in trays and albums are organized and are more accessible than digging through oddly shaped envelopes and cardboard boxed all jumbled together in another container or box.
Received my emergency eagle from your shop today. Beautiful coin, thanks! I bought it for my 2020 granddaughter. I hope it will start her collection in a few years. I'll take your advice and wait on the birth year proof set.
Thanks Daniel for sharing and great video and advice, which I like seeing what I am doing is correct as a collector keep one intact and break open for my collections and a small eBay seller and selling off what I don't need, greatly appreciated.
Thats what I do, if I know I’m going to crack one certain year from the set, I will get two sets of that year. Keep one intact for my proof collection. Glad We got things straightened out on mom’s order the other day. Thanks Daniel.
I have opened/cracked out proof and uncirculated sets to fill slots in my archival albums. However, I can't justify cracking out my 2012 proof set for those spots. I do have extra pre 64 P & D sets, as well as 2000-2006 proof sets, that I purchased 3 to 4 dollars per FV cheaper than the going rate for constitutional sliver.
Problem I'm seeing with leaving coins in USMint pkg is that the packaging is either not inert or airtight, or both, which leads to a change of appearance for many coins over time. Particularly impacted are modern dollar coins and nickels.
Daniel great advice on the proof and mint sets . I watched the Mint State video it had the best advice and demonstrations on coin photos i have ever seen . Mint State has already became my go to site for realistic coin prices . I hope in the future Mint State will start a certified grading service using A.I. and coin graders verifying the grade . This could be like having a coin graded and CAC certified all in one . Mint State has so many possibilities and potential i can't wait to see where it goes from here . Thank you Daniel and Mint State you guys are awesome .
I have Dansco albums for each denomination that have proofs from 1968 onward, so I bust open proof sets for the most part. Same for mint sets from the 1990s onward.
I have a silver set that does appear to have a spot of moisture within the casing, on the half dollar at that! Is it better to get it out or leave it in a case like that?
In my opinion the set that has some extra value, like an error, should be the one to put in your album, the one that has best strike quality, for grading! Just my opinion!!!! !!!!!!
Should you crack them out or not? That depends completely on the collector. Personally, I only have one proof coin (that I found in my change) but I do have a *small* desire to get a birth year proof set (1951) but right now it is way out of my budget. No, I will not buy coins from private sellers.
I am building a MS Type set in ANACS so I will have to crack a few out and send off so I can fill some holes. I know I am going to lose money on those coins but need them for the set so what is one to do!
❤I realize this is an older video. I know you may not see my question. Yet, I need to ask...if you have a set and one of the coins is in the process of, "Toning", (Rainbow on one edge moving inward), would it be better to separate it?😊
Always learning. Can you talk about microscops as for as megapixels for zooming in. Not all zooms have clarity. My android stinks, my microscope once it zooms in it loses clarity. Your the man thanks.
Proof coin is a special finish coin and will always be a proof, but they're not polished and shiny but deep cameo or cameo. Look up what proof coins look like. It's not the same as a business strike. ruclips.net/video/YtCrLFfBqn4/видео.htmlsi=bYdPNzcxmi0QmFwg
Great Video, no I am not going to break it out from the beautiful sets I have bought from you and send them off to be graded for more of a price than what I paid you for them. LOL!
@Coinhelpu just a note about your video about integrity of PCGS grading. I got my PCGS MS69 Silver Eagle yesterday and the only difference between that and MS 70 is a little less polishing.
I've heard that the 1973 Unc Ikes can be worth money if they grade high enough. I have a couple of 1973 P&D sets with nice Ikes, but I like them right where they are. Maybe once your new website is up and running, I can see what grade it claims they are and see if they're worth having graded?
all proofs come sealed, if not in origenal case it is now circulated, handaled and who knows what. right ? as a collector that is my opinion. in correct case it dont need grading
The hype on the 2017 s Enhanced silver eagle never died down ..now you can't touch the coin under $1000. ..I'm still waiting on the hype to end.. always check the minting limit ..
Does it really matter where the coin is minted? Meaning I only care about the mint marks on the coin telling me where it's from these coins that are graded and put into slabs and giving a make-believe mint mark (*) is just a sell scam to make beginner collectors buy it. Like " Emergency Issue "
Hi Daniel I have a question I have 3 1955 & 1 1956 mint set do you still suggest I keep it together also have in proof set but only one of each the reason I ask is I've seen videos that the 55 and 56 with MS 67 bring really good money and if higher grade a bunch more ?
Good advice on waiting for the hype to die down before you purchase , finally someone has said it. Good Video all around with sound advice.
Very good advice on waiting a year to purchase these sets! I've noticed the same thing with prices.
I'm a collector. I have in my collection proof sets from 1958 to present. Silver proof sets from 1992 to present. Uncirculated sets from 1952 to present, (several from 1956 to 1964 unopened). These and the rest of my collection are for my children and grandchildren.
Outstanding. I collect proof issues and break open sets for my custom binder albums w/Lighthouse Quadrum Intercept capsules and Encap pages. I only collect graded proofs not available raw such as rarities or pre 1965 which go into Lighthouse "slab" Encap pages that fit in the same album binders as the capsules...thereby keeping capsule and slabs of an entire coin series in the same location and storage system for viewing. Great video series Dan!
Great advice about the sets. The thing I do different is if all the Uncirculated sets show problems or quite variable quality among the coins then I simply choose the best from the sets and encapsulate them. I found I had to do this with 5 1981 sets I inherited. Also a 1970 uncirculated set I needed to save the best coins and the Kennedy as some of the others did not take kindly to the cellophane or movement within the packet.
I don't do coin books right now. Maybe down the line I will but for now coin capsules and SAFLIp in ziplock bags which are then stored in non PVC plastic containers (Staples offers nice ones of variable sizes and opaque that are pretty good for storage).
Let me add , I do not have any expensive rare coins - definitely some of good value but nothing at the moment where I would send it in for grading.
One series of sets I would keep in the OGP IF the packaging is intact and the coins are in good shape - the "satin finish" Uncirculated sets from 2005 - 2010, especially the 2009 one. Some of the clad coins suffer from spotting (especially the 2009 cents) so if you have a set that is in good shape probably best to keep it in the OGP unless you do buy a few and break out those for an album as you wisely suggest. TO me the satin finish sets and business strikes of 2005 - 2010 offer some sleepers worth checking into for collectors. In particular high grade business strike coins from those years as they are NOT found in the Mint sets, they would have been gotten only through rolls sold by the Mint and now available on the secondary market. You can also find some nice Mint state business strike coins once in awhile from these years. It is uncommon but possible, especially the quarters as it seems collctors sometimes use them if they are paring down their collection.
This leads me to a suggestion for another video - why not look at the years since 1950 when the US Mint did not produce Mint sets as well as Mint sets NOT with business strike coins (such as 2005 - 2010). You would be looking at the coins of 1950, 1982, 1982 and then 2005 - 2010. You could do a part two to include those years coins were available only in Mint sets but not in circulation such as the 1970 and 1987 Kennedys as well as those after 2001; Sacs and Native Americans from 2012 onward; the last few Presidential dollars that were not put into circulation (although you do find them once in awhile). It would be useful to collectors as this is an area that can be confusing but an opportunity for collecting some scarce sleepers as well as be a good opportunity for dealers to clear some oversupply of such stock that is a little undervalued.
Morning Daniel!!🍵 I cracked out the 80's and 90's ones to fill albums. The albums I have are full. Now I buy them and leave them intact. I see no need to put them in albums any longer. I have plenty of pre-clad spaces yet to fill!!😊
I agree 100%....ended up selling my proof sets for much less than the issue price.
Something else to consider. Proof and mint sets vary in size across the years. Individual slabbed coins from NGC are all the same size as other NGC slabs, and likewise storing PCGS slabs with other PCGS slabs. You can more easily store slabbed coins together in trays. You can also more easily store albums, by placing them in sleeves. Also, stored coins in trays and albums are organized and are more accessible than digging through oddly shaped envelopes and cardboard boxed all jumbled together in another container or box.
Received my emergency eagle from your shop today. Beautiful coin, thanks! I bought it for my 2020 granddaughter. I hope it will start her collection in a few years. I'll take your advice and wait on the birth year proof set.
Thank you!
Check out the Eagle Coin Co. proof set pocket pages. You can keep your newer proof set lenses intact and still display them in a binder.
Great advise and a little humor mixed in what more could we ask for on a Tuesday, Thank you Daniel for all that you do!! You are appreciated !
Thank you!
I liked the coin studio on mintstates video.Great idea
Great video this morning...... 🤠👍
Thanks Daniel for sharing and great video and advice, which I like seeing what I am doing is correct as a collector keep one intact and break open for my collections and a small eBay seller and selling off what I don't need, greatly appreciated.
I keep all my sets intact. Love looking at them all neat and sealed.
I opened up my sets that weren’t silver, and spent the money. My silver sets I kept for silver value, but I am taking them out of the packaging.
IHello Daniel, I enjoy opening the mint set to put in my albums. Thats what I do with most of my sets. Keep the videos coming. Take care.
My local coin dealer can’t give away mint sets but in albums they fly out the door.
I have been asking myself this question a lot lately. Thank you
Great advice 1yr off ! Sound advice right there. Thx
Thats what I do, if I know I’m going to crack one certain year from the set, I will get two sets of that year. Keep one intact for my proof collection. Glad We got things straightened out on mom’s order the other day. Thanks Daniel.
Me too! Thanks
Thanks for the information.
Great advice thank you.
You have a great day as well.
I have opened/cracked out proof and uncirculated sets to fill slots in my archival albums. However, I can't justify cracking out my 2012 proof set for those spots. I do have extra pre 64 P & D sets, as well as 2000-2006 proof sets, that I purchased 3 to 4 dollars per FV cheaper than the going rate for constitutional sliver.
Problem I'm seeing with leaving coins in USMint pkg is that the packaging is either not inert or airtight, or both, which leads to a change of appearance for many coins over time. Particularly impacted are modern dollar coins and nickels.
Booyah Daniel from Alaska . Order has been placed . I like this silver eagle 2020 to my eagles collections
Thank you
I try to buy 2, one to add to albums and one to save
Good topic. I’m undecided now but I have been considering whether to crack out sets or no.
I have some mint sets in lots of 4 each. I give a few away and keep two. Might break out one and keep one set.
Daniel great advice on the proof and mint sets . I watched the Mint State video it had the best advice and demonstrations on coin photos i have ever seen . Mint State has already became my go to site for realistic coin prices . I hope in the future Mint State will start a certified grading service using A.I. and coin graders verifying the grade . This could be like having a coin graded and CAC certified all in one . Mint State has so many possibilities and potential i can't wait to see where it goes from here . Thank you Daniel and Mint State you guys are awesome .
Thank you
@@CoinHELPu Thank you . What you guys have came up with in Mint State .com has limitless possibilities . I love the website .
Personality im done with pcgs. Ty Daniel. I REALLY appreciate you.
I have Dansco albums for each denomination that have proofs from 1968 onward, so I bust open proof sets for the most part. Same for mint sets from the 1990s onward.
Me, I don't break them open, easier to store.
me either, I get 3 sets each year from about 2009. proof, mint, and silver sets. I will watch the video tonight.
I have a silver set that does appear to have a spot of moisture within the casing, on the half dollar at that! Is it better to get it out or leave it in a case like that?
I enjoy collecting very rarely will I bother sending out to get evaluated . if I purchase a set I break it open and add to my collection.
As always Daniel, great advice! Thanks.
Do you sell the empty graded boxes? could not find it on your web site.
Not currently
Happy Holidays
How common are damaged coins in proof sets? I bought 10 x 1979s sets and several have damaged coins corrosion on pennies.
I have no idea how many.
In my opinion the set that has some extra value, like an error, should be the one to put in your album, the one that has best strike quality, for grading! Just my opinion!!!! !!!!!!
Good advice
Should you crack them out or not? That depends completely on the collector. Personally, I only have one proof coin (that I found in my change) but I do have a *small* desire to get a birth year proof set (1951) but right now it is way out of my budget. No, I will not buy coins from private sellers.
I am building a MS Type set in ANACS so I will have to crack a few out and send off so I can fill some holes. I know I am going to lose money on those coins but need them for the set so what is one to do!
You can always look for those already graded on eBay and let someone else take the hit on grading fees
@@tylonnplatinumthe3rd659 I have about bought all those up. Now it is getting close for me to have to take a hit on some.
Always good advice!
❤I realize this is an older video. I know you may not see my question. Yet, I need to ask...if you have a set and one of the coins is in the process of, "Toning", (Rainbow on one edge moving inward), would it be better to separate it?😊
Toning isn't contagious
Great video Daniel! Great information, and thank you for sharing! Hope you have a wonderful day!
Daniel, I have never heard of an emergency issue.What were they, and why? Thankyou for the video.
Great advice.
Always learning. Can you talk about microscops as for as megapixels for zooming in. Not all zooms have clarity. My android stinks, my microscope once it zooms in it loses clarity. Your the man thanks.
Watch ruclips.net/video/JZrAd796CEY/видео.html
Is a proof coin from a broken mint set? Are they the same?
Proof coin is a special finish coin and will always be a proof, but they're not polished and shiny but deep cameo or cameo. Look up what proof coins look like. It's not the same as a business strike. ruclips.net/video/YtCrLFfBqn4/видео.htmlsi=bYdPNzcxmi0QmFwg
Thank you for another video.
Thanks Daniel! 😊👍
That's your name right....?
If your coin mint set is 1970 or later, you might as well pull them out and buy a Pepsi from a vending machine. The older ones leave intact...
1970 has a 40% silver clad half dollar and if they're nice sets the 71 up to know still sell for a small premium. Beat up sets, no.
Good morning Sir Daniel ! Good video!
Great video once again! Thanks Daniel. I like that you said " so what your a year behind" lol I'm that guy!
What can I do with 3box’s of 2020 pennies, 38 rolls of pennies 2019, and 1 box of Nickel’s, if I opened them can I find anything good.
You need to do research, buy some coins books.
Wouldn’t the only coins from these sets worth grading be rare varieties? Unless of course they are old pre 70’s sets with nice cameos
What a price guide says is their potential value in a certain grade is how you decide on the olders coins.
Great Video, no I am not going to break it out from the beautiful sets I have bought from you and send them off to be graded for more of a price than what I paid you for them. LOL!
@Coinhelpu just a note about your video about integrity of PCGS grading. I got my PCGS MS69 Silver Eagle yesterday and the only difference between that and MS 70 is a little less polishing.
I buy two one to crack and one to save
Daniel, I enojy your video's very much, thank you
I've heard that the 1973 Unc Ikes can be worth money if they grade high enough. I have a couple of 1973 P&D sets with nice Ikes, but I like them right where they are. Maybe once your new website is up and running, I can see what grade it claims they are and see if they're worth having graded?
Since this year lost production.., would that increase value?
All mintages are approved by Congress and all are being fulfilled, so don't know if any low production numbers of the regular issue coins.
all proofs come sealed, if not in origenal case it is now circulated, handaled and who knows what. right ? as a collector that is my opinion. in correct case it dont need grading
What about FBL franklins. Worth it?
Watch ruclips.net/video/G05sGNbg0ko/видео.html
Collect British, Cook Island And Australia Proof Coins once grade we see many for $37.99-46.99 MS68 NGC. What do you think of this?
The hype on the 2017 s Enhanced silver eagle never died down ..now you can't touch the coin under $1000. ..I'm still waiting on the hype to end.. always check the minting limit ..
Well put sir
Hey daniel was wondering if you take money order for payment if I wanted to buy something ???
Yes, just click check payment in the check out, thanks
@@CoinHELPu thank you now I have to look at your stuff
Another awesome video
love all your videos I need a list of what they cost so I know what I can afford....thank yoy
No audio? My lip reading skillz are pretty good but couldn't keep up 😆
Check your volume, or bluetooth connection
You have it on mute, the audio is there.
Lol Ehren push this is a comment I wold make.
Just bought some to crack open - they came in lots of two so I will crack one and keep one. Nice advice.
Does it really matter where the coin is minted? Meaning I only care about the mint marks on the coin telling me where it's from these coins that are graded and put into slabs and giving a make-believe mint mark (*) is just a sell scam to make beginner collectors buy it. Like " Emergency Issue "
Nope, I just waited to get them when the price came down. I figured some collectors might want one.
😊😊😊👍👍👍
Hello how are you
Information this coin please help me actual price tell me this is real gold coin 1899 England
Hi Daniel I have a question I have 3 1955 & 1 1956 mint set do you still suggest I keep it together also have in proof set but only one of each the reason I ask is I've seen videos that the 55 and 56 with MS 67 bring really good money and if higher grade a bunch more ?
My video is my advice on this.
i see alot of ya'll sent in 68 & 69 to get back 65 & 66 this is not hot wheels collecting
You didn’t see me doing it. You’re on the wrong channel.
what i was saying is alot of coins you send in look like should get a better grade !@@CoinHELPu
im with ya on the AI grading !
Old ihave big calekcan
I like busting up PQ proof sets from the late 50's and early 60's. Fun hobby but a net money loser for sure.