Are you able to get a whiter engraving? My etching comes out sorts dingy white. Is that what it’s supposed to look like? I’m a newbie, so unsure. And thank you for your videos. I just subscribed!
So great to hear this. Ive been trying to do some more videos, but work has been crazy. But to the question, the only way to get a true white would be to paint the coaster white, then paint black. Im not a fan of this, but that is how you get trye white. Without doing that, you will always get a dull white/grey or darker and can also get a gold color with high power.
Have you engraved the burning tree design onto slate? Im burning it now and was just wondering if you had so I could compare. Ive already ran into an issue where I entered the dimension of the tile, ran the outline and saw it was a bit over the side so I lessened it, but then the design is printing a lot smaller than the dimensions of the new tile entry. So my tile was 89.6 and that ran the laser over the edges so I decreased until it no longer did that, which made it 82, Im running it now and its t least an inch from the bottom. SO thats something Ill need to play with
I have not used that image on slate, but as I've stated in the slate video, it's always a good idea (for full images) to try and extend past the edges. You ensure the full image is engraved on the entire slate. When I do simple images like the bear, I try to keep it inside the slate. So for example, if im doing a square slate, and it measures 80mm, I make my image about 83mm (thats only 1/10th of an inch). I also pay attention to my software, as sometimes there may be some additional space just past the image. If there is , I would increase it just a bit more. With the full images, it looks much better covering the full slate, that to look boxed into the slate. Hope this makes sense and helps.
@@MadeByMervich yes. Perfect sense. I misunderstood the sizing instructions. I did indeed hear you say make it a little over the edge and somehow when you made it smaller after doing the test to where the laser was going, the first instruction left my noggin. Entirely my fault.
Thank you for honoring my request. With one video you explained everything I needed in the process!. how do you determine what settings you will use? Is it from doing test burns oe is there a formula you follow? Thanks again. i am so appreciative of your time doing this I purchased one of your files so I can test my "education" Thanks again
You are so welcome! So, I do a bunch of test runs on nearly everything possible, and I'll keep a log. Once I find what works on a particular material, it gets logged, so I can always look back (like a cheat sheet) and replicate it. Where things change is image size and material composition. For canvases, different colors react differently to the laser. Some poor, and some good. So for them, its ever changing slightly. But slate and wood are always close to the same settings. Different woods do end up a little differently, so I note it by material type. I also try to stick to the same materials to increase my production and lower waste since I know exactly what im getting.
@Kimberlymogan they do help for sure, at least to get started. When I first started with the Artisian, I made my own, and it took me like 1 hour to make it. I have about 100 squares on it. I only use it now if I run into a material I can't figure out from experience or my log.
I have a question. When I engraved the tree, I used the suggested settings. Could you tell me what I should do if the engraving is very light. Meaning unless you look at it in a very specific way, you cannot see it or make out what it is
Did you invert the image first? Did you finish it with clear matte spray paint? If yes to both, and you followed my settings, it could be the slate itself.
Yes to both. I think Im going to switch to my 40w tomorrow since from what I understand it may be better, faster maybe, and see what it does. I’m working on making a test grid to test different products too
I’m in your Etsy store right now. I’m going to engrave that deer scene in a cutting board for my granddaughters adoptive daddy who is a hunter. Thank you again for all you e done
@Kimberlymogan send me a picture of the tree on slate through my etsy store so i can get a visual on it. The 40w is only faster in the sense of cutting thicker materials quicker with fewer passes. It surely will be able to engrave deeper on slate. The machine dictates the speed based on what you set it at. Dot fill, speed is based on dwell time. The other laser settings, the speed is based on work speed.
Your videos are interesting (although a little hard/fast for a Frenchy without subtitles 😃) and well done ! They interest me all the more since we have the same machine. I haven't engraved a slate with this laser yet and your settings are a good place to start. With my Neje 10W, I use slate settings that are much lower in speed and power. Apparently you got a color image directly from Luban. Could you please tell us what type and resolution it was in? Certainly with this type of image and in particular with the irregularities of the slate it may seem less important to treat it beforehand (for example with Imagr or other) and to choose a dpi corresponding well to the Snapmaker 10W laser, however I wonder if Could the result be even better by pre-treating it? Have you tried to compare? Thank you for sharing. Patrick
Heres a tip with youtube that I onlt recently found. you can change the play back speed!!! If you click on the little cogwheel icon (settings) it has a place that says "Playback speed" if you click om those words you can change it to faster or slower. Its really helped me. I slow things down when I want to write things down
I make all my own images from scracth. I have a drafting and design degree and have used high-end software for about 16 years. When I make an image, i try to make them laser ready. If people purchase my images (they do and I have great feedback - all 5 stars) they probably just go after it, and if they make any adjustments, they are probably very minor. I only use Luban for all my laser work. I use FreeCAD, LibreCAD, and Inkscape for cut desinging. I use photoshop, corel, and other image softwares to create them. My images all end up 1024 x 1024 1.4 - 1.7 mp images. I did recently get a request to upsize an image for a 58" laser job. So the image they purchased, i provided them with a 4060x4060 upscaled image to ensure the resolution wouldn't drop on them doing such a large image. Luban automatically converts color images to its best quality, which is why I love Luban for my work.
@@Kimberlymogan Merci Oui je l'utilise parfois, ainsi que l'accélération que l'on obtient en restant appuyé sur le bouton gauche qui permet de passer plus vite lorsque l'on est trop revenu en arrière (ainsi que les bien pratiques flèches gauches et droites). Cependant mon problème est plutôt dans la traduction/compréhension rapide de la langue courante. On ne s'en rend pas compte, mais on parle très rapidement lorsque l'on parle dans notre langue maternelle ! Les sous-titres (même éventuellement non traduits) aident bien même s'ils sont souvent un peu inexacts. Je comprends qu'ils prennent du temps à l'auteur pour les mettre en place mais c'est une aide précieuse lorsque l'on n'est pas parfaitement bilingue : C'est un outil qui aide bien le seul vieux neurone qu'il me reste 🤣
@@patv6897 Im not sure a lot of youtubers know about translation or subtitles. I thought RUclips had a switch that you could pop on to make subtitles. I will research and let you know what I find. ALSO. if you are on an ipad or other touch screen device you can also speed up (while also hearing the micky mouse type talk) or slow down the video. I found that on accident. Lets see if I can translate this to french for you. Je ne suis pas sûr que beaucoup de youtubeurs connaissent la traduction ou les sous-titres. Je pensais que RUclips avait un interrupteur sur lequel on pouvait appuyer pour créer des sous-titres. Je vais faire des recherches et je vous ferai savoir ce que je trouve. AUSSI. si vous êtes sur un iPad ou un autre appareil à écran tactile, vous pouvez également accélérer (tout en entendant le type de souris parler) ou ralentir la vidéo. J'ai trouvé ça par hasard. Voyons si je peux traduire ceci en français pour vous.
I create my own images from scracth and make them laser ready from the start. I have a drafting & design degree. I've been using various software for about 16 years. But most people who dont have that kind of background do use ImagR to help with their images. You can always check out my shop where I list images. The link to the shop is in the video description.
Thank you sir for inspiring and teaching us the what and the how's of this!
My pleasure!
Just subcribed love this content. Learn a lot . Thanks.
Awesome, I'm so glad to hear that! 😁
awesome
Thanks 😊
With your clear coat spray, do you spray the backside of the coaster also, or just the engraved side?
The coasters i use have foam feet, so i just spray the engraved side.
I do not see that bear on your Etsy page...
Its on there now! Thanks 😁
Are you able to get a whiter engraving? My etching comes out sorts dingy white. Is that what it’s supposed to look like? I’m a newbie, so unsure. And thank you for your videos. I just subscribed!
So great to hear this. Ive been trying to do some more videos, but work has been crazy. But to the question, the only way to get a true white would be to paint the coaster white, then paint black. Im not a fan of this, but that is how you get trye white. Without doing that, you will always get a dull white/grey or darker and can also get a gold color with high power.
Have you engraved the burning tree design onto slate? Im burning it now and was just wondering if you had so I could compare. Ive already ran into an issue where I entered the dimension of the tile, ran the outline and saw it was a bit over the side so I lessened it, but then the design is printing a lot smaller than the dimensions of the new tile entry. So my tile was 89.6 and that ran the laser over the edges so I decreased until it no longer did that, which made it 82, Im running it now and its t least an inch from the bottom. SO thats something Ill need to play with
I have not used that image on slate, but as I've stated in the slate video, it's always a good idea (for full images) to try and extend past the edges. You ensure the full image is engraved on the entire slate. When I do simple images like the bear, I try to keep it inside the slate. So for example, if im doing a square slate, and it measures 80mm, I make my image about 83mm (thats only 1/10th of an inch). I also pay attention to my software, as sometimes there may be some additional space just past the image. If there is , I would increase it just a bit more. With the full images, it looks much better covering the full slate, that to look boxed into the slate. Hope this makes sense and helps.
@@MadeByMervich yes. Perfect sense. I misunderstood the sizing instructions. I did indeed hear you say make it a little over the edge and somehow when you made it smaller after doing the test to where the laser was going, the first instruction left my noggin. Entirely my fault.
@@Kimberlymogan no problem, that why im making these videos. To help people achieve higher quality products.
Thank you for honoring my request. With one video you explained everything I needed in the process!. how do you determine what settings you will use? Is it from doing test burns oe is there a formula you follow? Thanks again. i am so appreciative of your time doing this
I purchased one of your files so I can test my "education" Thanks again
You are so welcome! So, I do a bunch of test runs on nearly everything possible, and I'll keep a log. Once I find what works on a particular material, it gets logged, so I can always look back (like a cheat sheet) and replicate it. Where things change is image size and material composition. For canvases, different colors react differently to the laser. Some poor, and some good. So for them, its ever changing slightly. But slate and wood are always close to the same settings. Different woods do end up a little differently, so I note it by material type. I also try to stick to the same materials to increase my production and lower waste since I know exactly what im getting.
@@MadeByMervich awesome. thanks. I recently saw some test grid files so Im going to run those on some things I have to play around with.
@Kimberlymogan they do help for sure, at least to get started. When I first started with the Artisian, I made my own, and it took me like 1 hour to make it. I have about 100 squares on it. I only use it now if I run into a material I can't figure out from experience or my log.
@@MadeByMervich Maybe making my own will be better? help me to understand what each setting causes?
I have a question. When I engraved the tree, I used the suggested settings. Could you tell me what I should do if the engraving is very light. Meaning unless you look at it in a very specific way, you cannot see it or make out what it is
Did you invert the image first? Did you finish it with clear matte spray paint? If yes to both, and you followed my settings, it could be the slate itself.
Yes to both. I think Im going to switch to my 40w tomorrow since from what I understand it may be better, faster maybe, and see what it does. I’m working on making a test grid to test different products too
I’m in your Etsy store right now. I’m going to engrave that deer scene in a cutting board for my granddaughters adoptive daddy who is a hunter. Thank you again for all you e done
@Kimberlymogan send me a picture of the tree on slate through my etsy store so i can get a visual on it. The 40w is only faster in the sense of cutting thicker materials quicker with fewer passes. It surely will be able to engrave deeper on slate. The machine dictates the speed based on what you set it at. Dot fill, speed is based on dwell time. The other laser settings, the speed is based on work speed.
What kind of laser are you using.? And thank you for your content .
I have a Snapmaker Artisian 3 in 1 (3d printer, laser, and cnc machine). It has multiple lasers, but this was done with a 10w diode.
Your videos are interesting (although a little hard/fast for a Frenchy without subtitles 😃) and well done ! They interest me all the more since we have the same machine.
I haven't engraved a slate with this laser yet and your settings are a good place to start.
With my Neje 10W, I use slate settings that are much lower in speed and power.
Apparently you got a color image directly from Luban. Could you please tell us what type and resolution it was in? Certainly with this type of image and in particular with the irregularities of the slate it may seem less important to treat it beforehand (for example with Imagr or other) and to choose a dpi corresponding well to the Snapmaker 10W laser, however I wonder if Could the result be even better by pre-treating it?
Have you tried to compare?
Thank you for sharing. Patrick
Heres a tip with youtube that I onlt recently found. you can change the play back speed!!! If you click on the little cogwheel icon (settings) it has a place that says "Playback speed" if you click om those words you can change it to faster or slower. Its really helped me. I slow things down when I want to write things down
I make all my own images from scracth. I have a drafting and design degree and have used high-end software for about 16 years. When I make an image, i try to make them laser ready. If people purchase my images (they do and I have great feedback - all 5 stars) they probably just go after it, and if they make any adjustments, they are probably very minor. I only use Luban for all my laser work. I use FreeCAD, LibreCAD, and Inkscape for cut desinging. I use photoshop, corel, and other image softwares to create them. My images all end up 1024 x 1024 1.4 - 1.7 mp images. I did recently get a request to upsize an image for a 58" laser job. So the image they purchased, i provided them with a 4060x4060 upscaled image to ensure the resolution wouldn't drop on them doing such a large image. Luban automatically converts color images to its best quality, which is why I love Luban for my work.
@@Kimberlymogan Merci Oui je l'utilise parfois, ainsi que l'accélération que l'on obtient en restant appuyé sur le bouton gauche qui permet de passer plus vite lorsque l'on est trop revenu en arrière (ainsi que les bien pratiques flèches gauches et droites). Cependant mon problème est plutôt dans la traduction/compréhension rapide de la langue courante. On ne s'en rend pas compte, mais on parle très rapidement lorsque l'on parle dans notre langue maternelle ! Les sous-titres (même éventuellement non traduits) aident bien même s'ils sont souvent un peu inexacts. Je comprends qu'ils prennent du temps à l'auteur pour les mettre en place mais c'est une aide précieuse lorsque l'on n'est pas parfaitement bilingue : C'est un outil qui aide bien le seul vieux neurone qu'il me reste 🤣
@@MadeByMervich Merci de toutes ces intéressantes informations. Comme vous, j'apprécie et utilise aussi Luban malgré ses limitations surtout en cnc.
@@patv6897 Im not sure a lot of youtubers know about translation or subtitles. I thought RUclips had a switch that you could pop on to make subtitles. I will research and let you know what I find. ALSO. if you are on an ipad or other touch screen device you can also speed up (while also hearing the micky mouse type talk) or slow down the video. I found that on accident. Lets see if I can translate this to french for you.
Je ne suis pas sûr que beaucoup de youtubeurs connaissent la traduction ou les sous-titres. Je pensais que RUclips avait un interrupteur sur lequel on pouvait appuyer pour créer des sous-titres. Je vais faire des recherches et je vous ferai savoir ce que je trouve. AUSSI. si vous êtes sur un iPad ou un autre appareil à écran tactile, vous pouvez également accélérer (tout en entendant le type de souris parler) ou ralentir la vidéo. J'ai trouvé ça par hasard. Voyons si je peux traduire ceci en français pour vous.
How do prep the image? ImagR?
I create my own images from scracth and make them laser ready from the start. I have a drafting & design degree. I've been using various software for about 16 years. But most people who dont have that kind of background do use ImagR to help with their images. You can always check out my shop where I list images. The link to the shop is in the video description.
Please always put the type of laser you are using in your title.
Thanks for the tip!