The cnc is kinda like open tuning....you feel like you're cheating if you use open tuning in a way. It's just an advanced tool to allow you open up more possibilities for the creation process. She's a beautiful guitar! I can't wait to see how your designs develop even further...your attention to detail and precision before the cnc was great...great design too....just next level Ewor!
Well done! I'm making a similar jig to shape the radius of the fretboard. But I'm afraid that the cutter might break the mother pearl inlays. Based on your experience, if I were to make a Gibson-like fingerboard with trapezoidal inlays, would you recommend using this jig or sanding manually with a radius block?
With all those other Grizzly / Shop Fox tools in there you don't have their swinging fretboard radius jig for the belt sander? Shiraz would be unhappy!
Thanks Willem, yes the recess goes through the headstock plate slightly. I’ve been thinking about using truss rods that are accessed at the other end and then doing some other design at that location.
@@eworcustomguitars Dave that means you'll have a bigger job, adjusting the truss rod, as they all need, over time. There's a reason Fender did away with that style. Of course I've heard the arguments for both. You could simply do it the way Gibson & others do, with the old screw plate. However you are the maestro, the guy putting the sweat equity, & time into the guitar. I don't care for the old truss rod adjustment from the base of the neck. You'll have to at least pop the pick up, to access it. (Or more) You are doing glue in necks. The wood & the method you use to build your necks, makes me think they're strong enough to handle your method. But that's just my opinion, I've been adjusting truss rods "nigh on 55 years", I prefer the access through the head stock. But as is said "You call the shots, you run the circus."(a Navy buddy said his Scout Leader used to say that.)😂 she's shaping up nicely. IMO
A neck with that many laminates, a scarf joint, and a glued down headstock laminate will make that neck joint stronger than any Fender, Gibson or any other production guitar. I personally like the flipped truss rods and if you install them Alembic style then you can adjust them easily.
Хобби
Always enjoy your videos David. It's been very good following your learning process.
That green tape idea so creative 💯👌
Another note on the file you used on the fret slots, doing that makes it easier to refret at a later time (hopefully 20 or so years down the road)
Complimenti sei bravissimo!!!
Thank you so much!
The cnc is kinda like open tuning....you feel like you're cheating if you use open tuning in a way. It's just an advanced tool to allow you open up more possibilities for the creation process. She's a beautiful guitar! I can't wait to see how your designs develop even further...your attention to detail and precision before the cnc was great...great design too....just next level Ewor!
Thank you. I really am loving the way cnc is changing my whole thought process!
Well done! I'm making a similar jig to shape the radius of the fretboard. But I'm afraid that the cutter might break the mother pearl inlays. Based on your experience, if I were to make a Gibson-like fingerboard with trapezoidal inlays, would you recommend using this jig or sanding manually with a radius block?
Sorry but someone could make a drinking game with how many times you " but anyway" 😉
😂😂I know what you mean!
Interesting, I've never seen anyone else add fall-away to the fretboard itself, usually just the frets after leveling.
Yeah I’ve done it this way several times. Seems to work well for me.
With all those other Grizzly / Shop Fox tools in there you don't have their swinging fretboard radius jig for the belt sander? Shiraz would be unhappy!
Yeah that is a cool looking machine but I just don’t have the room.
@@eworcustomguitars It is really nice, I had one before the divorce lol. I wont miss it with a CNC it seems
What’s the PAM for dave? 😂
I spray it on my bandsaw blades when they are new. It’s supposed to help them from getting build up.
Hi Dave, a word of comment: though pretty, your truss rod cover design inherently weakens the neck because of the recess, in my view.
Thanks Willem, yes the recess goes through the headstock plate slightly. I’ve been thinking about using truss rods that are accessed at the other end and then doing some other design at that location.
@@eworcustomguitars Dave that means you'll have a bigger job, adjusting the truss rod, as they all need, over time. There's a reason Fender did away with that style. Of course I've heard the arguments for both. You could simply do it the way Gibson & others do, with the old screw plate. However you are the maestro, the guy putting the sweat equity, & time into the guitar. I don't care for the old truss rod adjustment from the base of the neck. You'll have to at least pop the pick up, to access it. (Or more) You are doing glue in necks. The wood & the method you use to build your necks, makes me think they're strong enough to handle your method. But that's just my opinion, I've been adjusting truss rods "nigh on 55 years", I prefer the access through the head stock. But as is said "You call the shots, you run the circus."(a Navy buddy said his Scout Leader used to say that.)😂 she's shaping up nicely. IMO
A neck with that many laminates, a scarf joint, and a glued down headstock laminate will make that neck joint stronger than any Fender, Gibson or any other production guitar. I personally like the flipped truss rods and if you install them Alembic style then you can adjust them easily.