What did it TEACH me? Nothing. Using the scan tool to do a diagnostics pre-inspection, alerts me of any potential issues, as well as allowing me to inform the vehicle owner of the same. The use of the scan tool is in no way required for THIS service, but there ARE brake services where the tool is required to put the vehicle into SERVICE MODE. Using the scan tool is a free diagnostic service performed for the benefit of both myself and the vehicle owner. (Hard to be blamed for something pre-existing, when it's documented)
It all began with "What is involved?" When I could search and find what I wanted...great. But...when I couldn't find anything, that got me thinking, and creating.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair I reckon my only question would be why did you not use Anti-Seize on the two little rotor screws and the two caliper bolts? Anti-Seize would make future brake pad changes much easier. As for my 2019 Elantra SE, it's at 81,000 miles on the original brake pads and it's past time to change them. I hope I don't have to change the rotors too but I'm prepared for the worst and hoping for the best. Thanks again for your great video!
Thank you so much! my 2018 brakes are due and after watching many videos I felt confident but watching a video about the same exact car as mine is amazing. Thank you and your camera angles were amazing. Very pro, you help people save ton of money.
It's sad to see something so new, needing brakes already. The last brand new vehicle I ever owned went 128,000 miles before it needed front brakes. 135,000 I replaced the rear, even though they would have gone several thousand more miles.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair I agree man... my car had 45000 km and it needed front rotors while my pads were basically at 40% life used... rotors are bad. My old 4 years German Lease was returned and never had a brake job
Excellent job, I know garage Machanic’s wouldn’t have the patience to do what you did. Doing the job properly, that’s how you maintain a car! Good work sir!
I personally find it easier, this way, as apposed to doing one complete wheel at a time. The advantage is to unload the suspension so that it's easier to check for loose or worn components as well as turning from right to left and back, and rotating the wheel. Thank you for asking!
Okay, so just to make sure, the clips that go on the pads aren't necessary? Like on my Rav4 the pads just go on and then you put the caliper on, no stupid little metal clips necessary to hold the pads in place.
The metal clips that go between the brake pad ears and the caliper bracket ARE necessary. The little clips that are sometimes already attached to the brake pads, are "squeelers" which are audible wear indicators. I have some Rav4 brake videos...
I could almost read your mind when you were putting those paperclip looking things back on! Anyway, no mention of siphoning any brake fluid out before compressing the piston, is that not needed? I've always done that in the past. And do you not recommend antiseize on any caliper or bracket bolts? I know it messes with torques, but I never torque anything anyway.
While brake fluid is recommended to be replaced every 4 years or so (hygroscopic) I don't mess with removing any brake fluid, unless fluid has been added to compensate for low levels due to wear. As for bolts... I'm trying to condition myself to use blue thread locker on all of them! Antisieze the brackets UNDER the hardware clips, the piston surface, and back of pad that contacts the caliper ears (to help prevent squealing)
The dealer just charged my girl 2 hours labor 197 bucks for changing the pads ....this seems high total 279.95 ...all info points to 1 hour labor is this correct?
That seems to be the average that I see... I charge so little, it's almost not worth the time/gas/tools, but that's about to change a bit. I could double my rates and still remain cheaper, BUT I don't have a huge overhead to consider.
I don't live in an earthquake prone area, and other than reaching under the car to place/remove the jack stand (It's still supported by the jack too) I'm not putting myself or the vehicle in potential harm. Did you also notice where I put the wheels? Feel free to inform all the people who see this post, which surfaces you are speaking of, why. and what you'd recommend! I'm sure everyone can benefit.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair The wheels went under after the fact. The old disc is not big enough to support a jack stand safely. And it has sharp edges that can dig into the asphalt. Where would I do it? My garage. Same place I always do it. Concrete is much safer and not prone to buckling in high temperatures. If I wee to do it on asphalt I'd do one side at a time. I do it that way anyway, just because it's safer. Jacks can give out. You never know when. Jack stands can topple over, too. If it wasn't brakes and the wheels didn't have to come off I'd use wooded ramps I made using pressure-treated wood. 2x8's screwed together. If it were in my garage, metal ramp. Still with the jack stands and tires under the car just in case. I've had one car fall and the wheels saved me a broken leg. You can also rent shop space at a lot of places. Some have lifts. I've seen people do this in sand and even on the grass, but then I've also read about the cars falling on people killing them.
My wife and I are moving and where we're moving to I won't have access to a garage, so I'm not too sure how I would do my brakes in the driveway. You "could" just go for it and hope for the best, but that's not the smartest plan. Even with jack-stands it's not a great idea. What I might do is buy a large enough piece of pressure-treated wood for the side I'm jacking up to support the weight of the car and be big enough to not sink into the pavement. If I go that route I'd go wheel to wheel and not try lifting the entire front and entire back. Or possibly try to find a parking garage no one would care I used if I parked in a corner and did the brakes there. I actually have to do my brakes again before we move, we have about a month. And then there's a chance I might just start going to the shop to have it done. I know a good shop about 15 miles from me that doesn't charge too much, maybe $200 or so for all 4 wheels if I have the discs and pads. The cheapest place near me without that stuff is $600 for all 4 with them probably resurfacing the discs, which is a ripoff. I should open a brake shop. But then I'd have to do things like bleeding the brakes, which sucks.
So what did that fancy computer teach you how to do brakes. Smh
What did it TEACH me? Nothing.
Using the scan tool to do a diagnostics pre-inspection, alerts me of any potential issues, as well as allowing me to inform the vehicle owner of the same. The use of the scan tool is in no way required for THIS service, but there ARE brake services where the tool is required to put the vehicle into SERVICE MODE.
Using the scan tool is a free diagnostic service performed for the benefit of both myself and the vehicle owner. (Hard to be blamed for something pre-existing, when it's documented)
Very useful video. The best feature is your verbally describing every step of the way and what tool & size you are using as you use it.
It all began with "What is involved?" When I could search and find what I wanted...great. But...when I couldn't find anything, that got me thinking, and creating.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair I reckon my only question would be why did you not use Anti-Seize on the two little rotor screws and the two caliper bolts? Anti-Seize would make future brake pad changes much easier.
As for my 2019 Elantra SE, it's at 81,000 miles on the original brake pads and it's past time to change them. I hope I don't have to change the rotors too but I'm prepared for the worst and hoping for the best. Thanks again for your great video!
You seem like a nice hard working man. Good job.
Thank You, and thanks for watching!
This channel is UNDERRATED!!!! you show the whole process clear as day. Thankyou sir!
Thank you for watching! Hope you found it helpful. Please share!
Thank you so much! my 2018 brakes are due and after watching many videos I felt confident but watching a video about the same exact car as mine is amazing. Thank you and your camera angles were amazing. Very pro, you help people save ton of money.
It's sad to see something so new, needing brakes already. The last brand new vehicle I ever owned went 128,000 miles before it needed front brakes. 135,000 I replaced the rear, even though they would have gone several thousand more miles.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair I agree man... my car had 45000 km and it needed front rotors while my pads were basically at 40% life used... rotors are bad. My old 4 years German Lease was returned and never had a brake job
Excellent job, I know garage Machanic’s wouldn’t have the patience to do what you did. Doing the job properly, that’s how you maintain a car! Good work sir!
Thank you! Above and beyond...
Thanks.. i have the '18 gt model of elantra so I imagine its exactly same process. Crazy how much it rusted already
Road salt does HORRIBLE things to vehicle around here. (Ma.)
Brakes work great, and that will come in handy when driving on those onion skin tires!
Smooth brakes make staying on the road, a bit easier!
Thanks for making this video I’m changing mine right now
I hope this video makes your job much easier, and last much longer!
Thank you for taking the time to capture this; it'll help for working on a friend's car in particular and I like your attention to detail in general.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for posting this, I'm changing mine tomorrow.
Good luck!
Awesome video! Plain and simple. Made my life easy!
Glad you liked it! and very glad it has helped you!
Great video and very informative. I appreciate the details!
Glad you found it informative. I hope you weren't left with any questions... ;)
Why is it important to get both wheels off the ground? What's wrong with lifting one side at a time?
I personally find it easier, this way, as apposed to doing one complete wheel at a time. The advantage is to unload the suspension so that it's easier to check for loose or worn components as well as turning from right to left and back, and rotating the wheel. Thank you for asking!
I have same car about to get dirty this weekend thanks
Awesome! I hope this video helps you out! (and if it does... share it!)
Maybe consider a breaker/cheater bar for the caliper bolts? Long term can be tough on your bare hands.
I broke my Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar... Have since purchased a slightly longer one.
Why didn't you put grease on the back of the new pads?
Sometimes I do. Sometimes I do not. Mostly depends on whether or not there is some sort of additional backing on the pads.
Bro just saved me 500$ on fixing brakes.
That's awesome!
Thank you very helpful
You're welcome!
I do the same with the wheels, just makes it a little safer in my mind.
Safety is ALWAYS a major concern!
Thanks, enjoy your down-to-earth repair videos. A point of clarification, torque units are lb-ft
Noted! Thank you!
Okay, so just to make sure, the clips that go on the pads aren't necessary? Like on my Rav4 the pads just go on and then you put the caliper on, no stupid little metal clips necessary to hold the pads in place.
The metal clips that go between the brake pad ears and the caliper bracket ARE necessary. The little clips that are sometimes already attached to the brake pads, are "squeelers" which are audible wear indicators. I have some Rav4 brake videos...
I could almost read your mind when you were putting those paperclip looking things back on! Anyway, no mention of siphoning any brake fluid out before compressing the piston, is that not needed? I've always done that in the past. And do you not recommend antiseize on any caliper or bracket bolts? I know it messes with torques, but I never torque anything anyway.
While brake fluid is recommended to be replaced every 4 years or so (hygroscopic)
I don't mess with removing any brake fluid, unless fluid has been added to compensate for low levels due to wear.
As for bolts... I'm trying to condition myself to use blue thread locker on all of them!
Antisieze the brackets UNDER the hardware clips, the piston surface, and back of pad that contacts the caliper ears (to help prevent squealing)
🤣 so many opportunities during this video to finish his sentence with ... “that’s what she said”
Those are always fun "slips"
The dealer just charged my girl 2 hours labor 197 bucks for changing the pads ....this seems high total 279.95 ...all info points to 1 hour labor is this correct?
That seems to be the average that I see... I charge so little, it's almost not worth the time/gas/tools, but that's about to change a bit. I could double my rates and still remain cheaper, BUT I don't have a huge overhead to consider.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair got ya thanks for the reply
Quick question. Why were the rotors replaced ? Looks like they were in decent shape. Thanks!
I believe the rotors were part of a brake kit that he purchased online.
This is so unsafe. Wrong surface and trying to do both sides at once lifting the car the wrong way. It'd be much safer doing one side, then the other.
I don't live in an earthquake prone area, and other than reaching under the car to place/remove the jack stand (It's still supported by the jack too) I'm not putting myself or the vehicle in potential harm. Did you also notice where I put the wheels?
Feel free to inform all the people who see this post, which surfaces you are speaking of, why. and what you'd recommend! I'm sure everyone can benefit.
@@HouseCallAutoRepair The wheels went under after the fact. The old disc is not big enough to support a jack stand safely. And it has sharp edges that can dig into the asphalt. Where would I do it? My garage. Same place I always do it. Concrete is much safer and not prone to buckling in high temperatures. If I wee to do it on asphalt I'd do one side at a time. I do it that way anyway, just because it's safer. Jacks can give out. You never know when. Jack stands can topple over, too. If it wasn't brakes and the wheels didn't have to come off I'd use wooded ramps I made using pressure-treated wood. 2x8's screwed together. If it were in my garage, metal ramp. Still with the jack stands and tires under the car just in case. I've had one car fall and the wheels saved me a broken leg. You can also rent shop space at a lot of places. Some have lifts. I've seen people do this in sand and even on the grass, but then I've also read about the cars falling on people killing them.
My wife and I are moving and where we're moving to I won't have access to a garage, so I'm not too sure how I would do my brakes in the driveway. You "could" just go for it and hope for the best, but that's not the smartest plan. Even with jack-stands it's not a great idea. What I might do is buy a large enough piece of pressure-treated wood for the side I'm jacking up to support the weight of the car and be big enough to not sink into the pavement. If I go that route I'd go wheel to wheel and not try lifting the entire front and entire back. Or possibly try to find a parking garage no one would care I used if I parked in a corner and did the brakes there. I actually have to do my brakes again before we move, we have about a month. And then there's a chance I might just start going to the shop to have it done. I know a good shop about 15 miles from me that doesn't charge too much, maybe $200 or so for all 4 wheels if I have the discs and pads. The cheapest place near me without that stuff is $600 for all 4 with them probably resurfacing the discs, which is a ripoff. I should open a brake shop. But then I'd have to do things like bleeding the brakes, which sucks.
I was just trying to be funny. I know the purpose.
No problem. It brings up a valid point for people who don't know the purpose.