When I got mine Triumph 2000 I did the complete headstock and gearbox oil change the same way like abom 79 in his video, but I did two kerosene flushes just to be sure and after draining all the kerosene ,I let it completely dry with drain ports open covered for a few days .Next I refill it to the correct level and after that I couldn't recognize how much better,smoother and quiter it was running.This video is perfect, thanks for it . It helped me a lot.
@@offgridmangogrowerThat depends on how much and how hard you're using your lathe and at the age of oil. I've had some sediment in both tanks,but it was normal as the lathe has some age and it was completely original oil from manufacturer and previous owner never changed it.The two kerosene flushes I did were completely necessary in my case cause the oil I drained was almost black,somewhat tacky and partially breaked down cause of it's age. Some crud in either of the tanks will always appear if you're using your lathe regularly without oil change for couple of years. The flush like this is perfect to get all impurities and sediment out, so the new oil can perform as best as it can but you have to do it very carefully .In my case when I was done with the flush and new oil was in,the change in sound, performance and smoothness was huge.
@@popovic5463 the change in sounds ...sounds encouraging...mine was out in the weather for about 10 yrs after the tarps were torn off by my rat hunting dogs. Im moving them under cover and my kobota struggles to drag it. Any idea what the 2000 weighs..? I just turned the spindle and it was free and noiseless...but a oil change and flush will be next if I dont kill myself getting it on a trailer.
@@offgridmangogrowerAccording to the manual I have, Colchester 2000 thirty inch. length is 2580 lb./1170 kg and 2000 fifty inch.lenght is 2820 lbs./1280 kg .If you're gonna do flush there are couple of measures and precautions you should be aware of: For example I did flushes just at the headstock and gearbox .At the apron I just changed the oil for a new one. Next is: You do flushing at your own risk cause diesel,kerosene or similar solvents are hard on oil seals and rubber pipes !! It can happen that you will have an oil leak after the flush,so be prepare that this could happen !!Secondly be aware during the flush you are running nothing but flushing agent in the headstock and gearbox ,so during the flush have both at slowest speed and revolution that you can and take off the lathe chuck, so there's no load on the spindle and you greatly reduce the chance of damage. Also don't put any load on gearbox during flush , don't move the apron and just let the gearbox spin.Don't do more than 2-3 flushes cause I think that's more than enough to clean the insides completely.If you gonna do the flush, put the flushing agent to the top level for the best results. For every flush I let it run for about 20 minutes.After the flush let the drain ports open, so that you let the air in and all flushing agent could drain and evaporate .Let it stay opened for at least couple of days and be sure that all of it is out. You can also open the headstock like in this video,put some tarp or something similar loosely on the top and let it completely dry and evaporate that way. If you want to be completely safe, you could buy some same viscosity cheaper oil in the amount that you need for complete change ,drain the old oil out ,put the cheap oil in and run it so that it can flush the impurities out with much less risk of damage then with solvent ,then drain that one also completely and then finally refill it to the correct level with correct oil.You could do flush with solvent or with the cheaper oil and it depends on the status of your current oil .If you wanna do a flush that's completely up to you.I did the flushes because it was necessary in my case as the oil was completely original and it was in horrible condition.But as I wrote here before ,after I did flushes and put the new oil in, the lathe feeled completely different on many levels like sound, smoothness etc.Good luck with it.
@@popovic5463 thanks erik...! It will take a little time to digest this....appreciate your kindness....cant wait to slap a DC drive on it and shorten my 56 4x4 axle shafts and tubes...
I watched this video when I first purchased my Clausing Colchester 15x50. I just found it again. I’ve done the fluid changes and other maintenance related tasks. I love this lathe. It has features you would expect on a much more expensive brand. Thanks for posting. I did have to replace the o ring on the carriage hand pump.
I have the same lathe. I very much enjoyed your video. A bit of a shock, one day I pulled the cover off and noticed the plastic tube to the front spindle bearing had pulled out. I replaced it and made sure it was a bit long. The hose was hard as a rock. You may want to replace all your hoses. It's cheap insurance. Oh, I checked for bearing damage. I measured .0003" runout at the taper and this was a cold lathe. No noise, no heat. I caught it in time. Food for thought.
Dear Digital Hack Great video on a subject that is not well covered on You Tube (ie: lathe maintenance, especially lube oil types). Most of the forums seem to recommend an ISO 32, 46 or 68 hydraulic oil for lathe gearboxes. The suggestions as to specific type if there was no manual, was to use the lighter weight oil (32 or 46) in "less worn" gearboxes, and the heavier (thicker) ISO 68 for more worn gearboxes as this may help reduce gear noise. I installed ball valves where space allowed on all the oil reservoir drains as this makes oil changes far less messy. I find these valves stiff enough that they won't turn to "open" from vibration etc. Keep up the great videos. Paul (from Canada)
Glad you liked the video and yes when I went to do an oil change, I couldn't find anything on RUclips to help at all. I approached Shell directly and spoke with their technical department which provided me the alternative oils but your right, using lighter weight oils in "less worn" gearboxes, and heavier for more worn gearboxes may help reduce gear noise. Not being sure about using any old hydraulic oil, I went with the advice from Shell but I'm sure there are plenty of other alternatives.
Hey, I just finished the same service. This video was a huge help. I really appreciate the depth, detail, that you put into this. Awesome. Subscribed 👊
With any Colchester lathe it is worth checking that the oil ways to the spindle bearings drain freely as the Gamet bearings rely on a good oil flow to keep them cool.
I have a very abused 2000 that will get an oil change very soon...glad you made contact and sharing the approved oils....I just built a waste oil burner so I'll make great use for the drained oils...Haha This might be a great time to inspect bearings and any broken gear box items too.....
Many of the YT vids about this lathe are from overpriced auction rooms simply selling. 2 of the best are yours because they're of a real-world person talking about their real-world Colchester experiences. Would love to see more from you :)
That's a monster lathe........ looks better than my works one too......... that one's got about an inch of dust on it, poor thing. The speed control system really does look fascinating, I occasionally sneak into the machine shop just to look over my works lathe out of curiosity and couldn't for ages figure out the dual speed control system, just figured it out..... all colour coded, line up the right colours for the speeds you want. Mechanically that system tickles my 'how the hell does that work' button, hee. Great video
Nice video, the Triumph 2000 is great lathe to have in your shop. But please be aware of the fact that it takes several minutes before the oil pocket in the headstock, supplying oil to the spindle bearing adjacent to the chuck is filled up. Let the oil pump run for a while before you run the lathe.
+Jan Visser Yes a good idea. I did run the pump for quite some time before using the lathe. Also lubricating from the top of the headstock ensured that the gearbox was actually oiled before use. The spindle bearing was not degreased however I do understand what you mean. Thanks for the kind words. Much appreciated.
The Colchester advice is to not have the leadscrew turning unless you're actually threading with it. Also important to regularly go around all the oil points on the lathe too.
you write 4 gallons of theses oil are required --- British or American gallons? I'm from Germany and have to convert it to liters. And does your Engine runs in the wrong direction? See manual "Electric Supply Connection" Main rotation mus be clockwiese viewed from the pully end" -- In your Video on 8:16 i think your Engine starts counter clockwise. is this ok?
I like this Colchester Triumph 2000 Lathe but the Cross Slide thread is fine. When I machine pipe taper thread 8 or 7-1/2" TPI and have to turn the cross slide hand wheel many times.
Hello, great video. Since a few days i have a Colchester Triumph 2000. I want to renew the oils, can you say me please how much liter oil i need from Tellus S2 M32 and Tonna S3 M68? Greetings from Germany.
Thank you. Unfortunately, I can't quite remember since it has been a while, however, I was not able to buy oils in fewer quantities as described in the video. I bought two 20L drums of both oils needed. I hope that helps?
Nice vid. The oil system is a bit more complex than in my Taiwanese clone. What was the oil capacity in the upper spindle gearbox and the lower threading gearbox?
The lower tank is almost all of one can while the top tank (from memory) took about half that. It did surprise me how much oil actually went into the whole machine though. Thanks for your kind words cheers.
hey thanks for posting this - can I ask are you running off three phase or a phase converter I have a master which I will give the oil change treatment to - great video
I'm running mine off 3 phase since I'm lucky enough to have it underground to my shed. Thank you for your kind words. Good luck with your oil change ... at least you will know what the condition of your lathe is and hopefully run trouble free for years :-).
european lathes all are pretty much the same when it comes down to the lubricants. headstock and gear box require pretty basic machine oil with extended life additives (CL) in VG 32, while the carriage requires bedway oil in VG 68. def no rocket since there, all of the main suppliers provide them and you possibly can't do wrong.
No my lathe does not have the high speed threading attachment unfortunately nor the copy attachment which was on the unit when it was at Box Hill Tafe. Oh well.
Hey! i have the same lathe but the colored RPM indications on the dials have worn off... If you still check this account is there any way you can tell me the rpms? i got a few from the video but i couldn't get the ones opposite of camera
@@offgridmangogrower No panic Raymond, you did a nice job. I was referring to the comment about helical gears by “time to do patriot stuff”. The Collies have straight gears and especially the older round heads were a bit noisy in the head stock. Enough about this. I was wondering: are you besides the already installed filter also fitting a magnetic element in the oil pump system?
When I got mine Triumph 2000 I did the complete headstock and gearbox oil change the same way like abom 79 in his video, but I did two kerosene flushes just to be sure and after draining all the kerosene ,I let it completely dry with drain ports open covered for a few days .Next I refill it to the correct level and after that I couldn't recognize how much better,smoother and quiter it was running.This video is perfect, thanks for it . It helped me a lot.
Did you see black crud at 1st when draining?.....I'm afraid I might see water....
@@offgridmangogrowerThat depends on how much and how hard you're using your lathe and at the age of oil. I've had some sediment in both tanks,but it was normal as the lathe has some age and it was completely original oil from manufacturer and previous owner never changed it.The two kerosene flushes I did were completely necessary in my case cause the oil I drained was almost black,somewhat tacky and partially breaked down cause of it's age. Some crud in either of the tanks will always appear if you're using your lathe regularly without oil change for couple of years.
The flush like this is perfect to get all impurities and sediment out, so the new oil can perform as best as it can but you have to do it very carefully .In my case when I was done with the flush and new oil was in,the change in sound, performance and smoothness was huge.
@@popovic5463 the change in sounds ...sounds encouraging...mine was out in the weather for about 10 yrs after the tarps were torn off by my rat hunting dogs. Im moving them under cover and my kobota struggles to drag it. Any idea what the 2000 weighs..?
I just turned the spindle and it was free and noiseless...but a oil change and flush will be next if I dont kill myself getting it on a trailer.
@@offgridmangogrowerAccording to the manual I have, Colchester 2000 thirty inch. length is 2580 lb./1170 kg and 2000 fifty inch.lenght is 2820 lbs./1280 kg .If you're gonna do flush there are couple of measures and precautions you should be aware of:
For example I did flushes just at the headstock and gearbox .At the apron I just changed the oil for a new one. Next is: You do flushing at your own risk cause diesel,kerosene or similar solvents are hard on oil seals and rubber pipes !! It can happen that you will have an oil leak after the flush,so be prepare that this could happen !!Secondly be aware during the flush you are running nothing but flushing agent in the headstock and gearbox ,so during the flush have both at slowest speed and revolution that you can and take off the lathe chuck, so there's no load on the spindle and you greatly reduce the chance of damage. Also don't put any load on gearbox during flush , don't move the apron and just let the gearbox spin.Don't do more than 2-3 flushes cause I think that's more than enough to clean the insides completely.If you gonna do the flush, put the flushing agent to the top level for the best results. For every flush I let it run for about 20 minutes.After the flush let the drain ports open, so that you let the air in and all flushing agent could drain and evaporate .Let it stay opened for at least couple of days and be sure that all of it is out. You can also open the headstock like in this video,put some tarp or something similar loosely on the top and let it completely dry and evaporate that way. If you want to be completely safe, you could buy some same viscosity cheaper oil in the amount that you need for complete change ,drain the old oil out ,put the cheap oil in and run it so that it can flush the impurities out with much less risk of damage then with solvent ,then drain that one also completely and then finally refill it to the correct level with correct oil.You could do flush with solvent or with the cheaper oil and it depends on the status of your current oil .If you wanna do a flush that's completely up to you.I did the flushes because it was necessary in my case as the oil was completely original and it was in horrible condition.But as I wrote here before ,after I did flushes and put the new oil in, the lathe feeled completely different on many levels like sound, smoothness etc.Good luck with it.
@@popovic5463 thanks erik...!
It will take a little time to digest this....appreciate your kindness....cant wait to slap a DC drive on it and shorten my 56 4x4 axle shafts and tubes...
I watched this video when I first purchased my Clausing Colchester 15x50. I just found it again.
I’ve done the fluid changes and other maintenance related tasks.
I love this lathe. It has features you would expect on a much more expensive brand.
Thanks for posting. I did have to replace the o ring on the carriage hand pump.
I have the same lathe.
I very much enjoyed your video.
A bit of a shock, one day I pulled the cover off and noticed the plastic tube to the front spindle bearing had pulled out.
I replaced it and made sure it was a bit long. The hose was hard as a rock.
You may want to replace all your hoses. It's cheap insurance.
Oh, I checked for bearing damage. I measured .0003" runout at the taper and this was a cold lathe.
No noise, no heat.
I caught it in time.
Food for thought.
Thanks for the video. can you share how much oil is required to fill the tank full?
Man this machine is beatiful.
Greetings from Mexico.
Dear Digital Hack
Great video on a subject that is not well covered on You Tube (ie: lathe maintenance, especially lube oil types). Most of the forums seem to recommend an ISO 32, 46 or 68 hydraulic oil for lathe gearboxes. The suggestions as to specific type if there was no manual, was to use the lighter weight oil (32 or 46) in "less worn" gearboxes, and the heavier (thicker) ISO 68 for more worn gearboxes as this may help reduce gear noise. I installed ball valves where space allowed on all the oil reservoir drains as this makes oil changes far less messy. I find these valves stiff enough that they won't turn to "open" from vibration etc.
Keep up the great videos.
Paul (from Canada)
Glad you liked the video and yes when I went to do an oil change, I couldn't find anything on RUclips to help at all. I approached Shell directly and spoke with their technical department which provided me the alternative oils but your right, using lighter weight oils in "less worn" gearboxes, and heavier for more worn gearboxes may help reduce gear noise. Not being sure about using any old hydraulic oil, I went with the advice from Shell but I'm sure there are plenty of other alternatives.
Hey, I just finished the same service. This video was a huge help. I really appreciate the depth, detail, that you put into this. Awesome. Subscribed 👊
With any Colchester lathe it is worth checking that the oil ways to the spindle bearings drain freely as the Gamet bearings rely on a good oil flow to keep them cool.
had to write a essay on this video for btec level 3 engineering. thank you for this informational and effiecnt video!
same
I have a very abused 2000 that will get an oil change very soon...glad you made contact and sharing the approved oils....I just built a waste oil burner so I'll make great use for the drained oils...Haha
This might be a great time to inspect bearings and any broken gear box items too.....
Many of the YT vids about this lathe are from overpriced auction rooms simply selling. 2 of the best are yours because they're of a real-world person talking about their real-world Colchester experiences. Would love to see more from you :)
That's a monster lathe........ looks better than my works one too......... that one's got about an inch of dust on it, poor thing. The speed control system really does look fascinating, I occasionally sneak into the machine shop just to look over my works lathe out of curiosity and couldn't for ages figure out the dual speed control system, just figured it out..... all colour coded, line up the right colours for the speeds you want. Mechanically that system tickles my 'how the hell does that work' button, hee.
Great video
Excellent and useful video. How many liters of oil you put on the main reservoir? Thank you very much and best regards.
I do not think it is ok to spray inside a gearbox. But it is your Lathe. A beauty.
Nice video, the Triumph 2000 is great lathe to have in your shop.
But please be aware of the fact that it takes several minutes before the oil pocket in the headstock, supplying oil to the spindle bearing adjacent to the chuck is filled up.
Let the oil pump run for a while before you run the lathe.
+Jan Visser Yes a good idea. I did run the pump for quite some time before using the lathe. Also lubricating from the top of the headstock ensured that the gearbox was actually oiled before use. The spindle bearing was not degreased however I do understand what you mean. Thanks for the kind words. Much appreciated.
The Colchester advice is to not have the leadscrew turning unless you're actually threading with it.
Also important to regularly go around all the oil points on the lathe too.
How do you stop it turning take the pin out ?
Nice video Sir.
ALL THE BEST.
sir what is oil capacity of Colchester mascot 1600. Machine kindly reply its urgent
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice lathe
you write 4 gallons of theses oil are required --- British or American gallons? I'm from Germany and have to convert it to liters.
And does your Engine runs in the wrong direction? See manual "Electric Supply Connection" Main rotation mus be clockwiese viewed from the pully end" -- In your Video on 8:16 i think your Engine starts counter clockwise. is this ok?
U do realise there is a manual finger pump on the apron to use up that tonna 33 it lubes up crosslide and underneath the saddle
Have you ever overhaul the apron gearbox? I am having issues with the auto feed, it keeps tripping even with the trip pressure fully turned
I like this Colchester Triumph 2000 Lathe but the Cross Slide thread is fine. When I machine pipe taper thread 8 or 7-1/2" TPI and have to turn the cross slide hand wheel many times.
Hello, great video. Since a few days i have a Colchester Triumph 2000. I want to renew the oils, can you say me please how much liter oil i need from Tellus S2 M32 and Tonna S3 M68? Greetings from Germany.
Thank you. Unfortunately, I can't quite remember since it has been a while, however, I was not able to buy oils in fewer quantities as described in the video. I bought two 20L drums of both oils needed. I hope that helps?
Great video, thanks for posting
Glad you liked it :-)
Mobil Vactra 2 way lubricant works fine for the Apron, also use it plentifully on the ways and lube points of machine
Nice vid. The oil system is a bit more complex than in my Taiwanese clone. What was the oil capacity in the upper spindle gearbox and the lower threading gearbox?
The lower tank is almost all of one can while the top tank (from memory) took about half that. It did surprise me how much oil actually went into the whole machine though. Thanks for your kind words cheers.
Great Video, Please how much liters does the apron/carriage holds in it??
enginelover1 Thank you for your kind words. The apron doesn't hold that much oil and from memory it took about 3-4 litres. Hope that helps
enginelover1 Yes that's right, its only sold in 20 litre drums. Not very convenient for the Tonna 33 replacement since you won't need that much of it.
Great video, thanks a lot for that! How much Tonna S32 is necessary for a complete change in the headstock and gearbox?
Tonna is way oil that goes in the apron only and is used up while you are using the hand operated pump on the apron skirt plate!
hey thanks for posting this - can I ask are you running off three phase or a phase converter I have a master which I will give the oil change treatment to - great video
I'm running mine off 3 phase since I'm lucky enough to have it underground to my shed. Thank you for your kind words. Good luck with your oil change ... at least you will know what the condition of your lathe is and hopefully run trouble free for years :-).
Do you know a rough value for these lathes
Thanks for sharing this !
Its a pleasure
Really good video. Thanks for making it!
No problem. Glad you liked it :-)
sir what is oil capacity of Colchester mascot 1600. Machine kindly reply its urgent
I’m that somebody, thanks 🤣👍🏼
Thank You!
european lathes all are pretty much the same when it comes down to the lubricants. headstock and gear box require pretty basic machine oil with extended life additives (CL) in VG 32, while the carriage requires bedway oil in VG 68.
def no rocket since there, all of the main suppliers provide them and you possibly can't do wrong.
Cut my teeth on an old 13" Clausing/Colchester. Does yours have the high-speed threading attachment? I really liked that lathe.
No my lathe does not have the high speed threading attachment unfortunately nor the copy attachment which was on the unit when it was at Box Hill Tafe. Oh well.
# good job bro .. thanks
I'm scared to show you my works Boxford.......but I really want to get it cleaned up and looking as good as yours......
ah go on do it :-) Sounds like a great project! Best of luck with it and thanks for your comment
Hey....does anybody had electrical drawing for colchester 1800?
Cuantos litros de aceite lleva
Great Video. thank you
Neat.
Hey! i have the same lathe but the colored RPM indications on the dials have worn off... If you still check this account is there any way you can tell me the rpms? i got a few from the video but i couldn't get the ones opposite of camera
Mike B have a look at this pic I took & hopefully that clears it up for you: instagram.com/p/BrFEfnlBiTk/
Very helpful
3:45 Taking the top off was a mistake caused by your first mistake - not using flushing oil.
Que bueno que fuera en español
Nice service video I no Colchester make's a quality product but when you popped the top off I was surprised they didn't use helical gear's.
Listen to the sound of an older Colchester roundhead and you know what the cause is😏
@@janvisser2223 I give up..?
Sorry I dont have my 2000 running yet...what sounds can you expect..?
@@offgridmangogrower
No panic Raymond, you did a nice job.
I was referring to the comment about helical gears by “time to do patriot stuff”.
The Collies have straight gears and especially the older round heads were a bit noisy in the head stock.
Enough about this.
I was wondering: are you besides the already installed filter also fitting a magnetic element in the oil pump system?
You will need a gasket for the lid.
Hello, how many oil have I to order for this lathe before starting the oil change, please?
sir what is oil capacity of Colchester mascot 1600. Machine kindly reply its urgent
🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷👍👍