Lovely, calming video to watch you work. Without saying it, you’ve taught that the way to handle bellows factor and reciprocity failure is to be methodical.
Hi Todd. Your timing could not be better! My 45F-2 arrived last month. Gorgeous. I was thinking about trying some macro, wondering if I would have to find a special lens. However, you have shown the way. It looks far less formidable than I was imagining. Thank you again!
Hi Jeff - how's the Chamonix? I bought my 45F-2 back in 2014 on a visit to LA and it's been a great (if not heavy) travel companion on various trips. Lugging it and 5 lenses + heavy tripod around the Rockies was a challenge! Reminds me when Ansel Adams was asked why he was using such a big camera, he responded that it was because he couldn't get a bigger one! Cheers from Sydney - Dave
Great video and very useful for someone like me just starting LF. I have the Lomography Graflok Instax wide back which has been great to learn the camera. I'm hooked on 4x5 now.
Another great video. Very informative. Great images, especially Polaroids. I remember when Polaroid film was available everywhere I enjoyed emulsion lift and image transfer. It was a great way to create different art from Polaroid images.
I'm enjoying the videos. I chuckled a few moments Becca are how much I owe empathize with specific moments. Oh yeah, reposity. And, those moments when you have you repeat the exposure the yourself 20 times just to forget in a minute later. So I meter again. Follow up question... Did you need any movements, like front tilt, for the cabbage or shallot shots. Why or why not? I am curious about the thought process behind that decisions.
Hey Todd! Great looking exposures! Quick question: you said your 150mm lens had a bellows draw of 6 inches and the second lens you used had a bellows draw of 8 inches….how do you determine this initial number ? Is this based on focusing the lens on something at Infinity and then measuring the length of the bellows? Just confused on how to determine this base number in order to calculate how much over that you are when focusing on close objects to figure out your Bellows Factor extension. Thanks!
You don't need bellows correction if the bellows is only as long as the lens focal length. 150mm and 6" are the same distance. He's correcting because close-up requires the bellows to be longer than 150mm (6"). When a bellows is at the focal length x 2 (150mm x 2 = 300mm), the subject is being photographed at a magnification of 1:1 (1cm/inch of film = 1cm/inch of subject). If you try the formula, you'll see that the correction is 2 stops when the lens is at 1:1 (bellows is 300mm long).
Also, I am speaking in two measurements here, 150mm the number you see on the lens, the metric system and 6 inches is the imperial system. The formula I use is for the imperial system.
great video, and nice practical class on macro shooting, but one question, how did you get away with so little light, as the 'studio' was, seeing it on youtube, in semi-darkness, and isn't the rule that the larger the film, and format, the more light needed, hence why some use big studio flashes, just to get enough light.
Well depends on what you are shooting, since my subjects were not moving I could get away with long shutter speeds. With this set up I just wanted to feather some light in there.
@@toddkorolphoto thanks, a great shoot, especially as it is refreshing to see LF used for 'studio' use, not just landscapes, or portraits all the time, well done.
I have so many fellow photographers on RUclips give the formula at 7:57 that it makes me wonder if I am the only photographer who took basic math and knows that a²/b² = (a/b)². So why making it so hard on yourself at 8:11 by calculating 12²/6²=144/36=4, when you could just say (12/6)²=2²=4. Please do yourself (and everyone else) a favor and be the first (or am I the first???) to just simplify the formula to dividing the bellow length by the focal length and then and only then figuring out the square of the result. It is much, much simpler, as it avoids the unnecessary division of two large numbers.
Very helpful but one thing I didn't understand: At 4:39 on the tape you said 'plus one extra stop' changing the exposure from 4sec at F16 to 4sec at F11. Why 'plus one extra stop'?
Because I had 3 extra inches of bellows from the 6" base of my lens, So because I had 3 extra inches, or 50% more bellows, I have to give the exposure 1 extra stop, so I opened up the aperture from F/16, the meter reading to F/11. Hope that helps.
@@toddkorolphoto Oh, OK. I thought you had already corrected for that by reducing to 1sec at 5.6. I did not realise that the subsequent readings were uncorrected or were they?
Timely and welcome. I’ve been doing some tabletop still lifes myself with a home-made V-flat. Just wondering: how do you choose which hole to screw the front standard in? I’ve been assuming it’s where the lens is focused at infinity, but you seem to have a couple of positions for the one lens. Or did I miss the switch? Nice results, by the way.
I watched it again a little more carefully (but with just as much pleasure) and saw the 210 mm (8 inch) lens replace the 150 mm (6 inch) one. I also saw that you had the rear standard racked out, which may be why the front is positioned differently for the 210 mm lens. I hope we'll see more of the cookbook photos. Mr Penn would approve.
Beautiful work! Did you use the exposure info given by the incident reading (zone 5?) for your exposure before adding comp factor and reciprocity failure? Or did you add/subtract zones from the incident reading based on your vision and then compensate for extension and reciprocity?
Yes I used the incident reading to get zone 5, then added exposure comp and reciprocity. But if you also noticed, I metered for how the light was falling on the subject, not just how the subject faced the lens.
Awesome video,I think your channel is really good, so you know I do make Channel review videos of youtube channels and I will want to make one about your channel. if that is okay with you.please reply.
That’s a beautiful painting behind the set up!
@@macolive65 thanks, my wife’s pick, but I love it.
Once again, all done with due care and attention to the form and one's craft. And it's evidenced in the output.
Many thanks. I do love this craft !
thanks for all the explanations. thank god for the Reciprocity App!!!
Yeah that's a good one to have for sure.
I really am enjoying your videos. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching!!
Thank you. I was wondering about using my field camera for tabletop and you've solidified it's doable. 👏👏👏👏
Awesome, yes they are great for tabletop, and have the added bonus of movements.
I need to try this with my 4x5. Thanks for the how to.
You're welcome. Cheers
Great tip on that app. Just downloaded it and it’s really good!👍👍👍
Lovely, calming video to watch you work. Without saying it, you’ve taught that the way to handle bellows factor and reciprocity failure is to be methodical.
Thanks for the video. You make learning to use my Chamonix 4x5 seem achievable and practical.
Glad to help!
Take a look at the ‘Quick Disc’ . Simple tool to make bellows compensation calculations easy.
Oh yes I've heard about that, will check it out, thanks!
Reciprocity timer app does not only reciprocity calcs, it does bellows comp calcs too and gives appropriate settings. No math needed.
Hi Todd. Your timing could not be better! My 45F-2 arrived last month. Gorgeous. I was thinking about trying some macro, wondering if I would have to find a special lens. However, you have shown the way. It looks far less formidable than I was imagining. Thank you again!
Great to hear.
Hi Jeff - how's the Chamonix? I bought my 45F-2 back in 2014 on a visit to LA and it's been a great (if not heavy) travel companion on various trips. Lugging it and 5 lenses + heavy tripod around the Rockies was a challenge! Reminds me when Ansel Adams was asked why he was using such a big camera, he responded that it was because he couldn't get a bigger one! Cheers from Sydney - Dave
Always good to restate basics
Another great episode. Thank you for the great intro to LF macro photography. And the beautiful images. Can‘t wait to see the book!
Thanks, I will release it here.
Do you have videos covering large format camera movements when shooting close-ups and macros?
Great video and very useful for someone like me just starting LF. I have the Lomography Graflok Instax wide back which has been great to learn the camera. I'm hooked on 4x5 now.
Another great video. Very informative. Great images, especially Polaroids. I remember when Polaroid film was available everywhere I enjoyed emulsion lift and image transfer. It was a great way to create different art from Polaroid images.
Yes these Polaroids are perhaps the film I miss the most.
I'm enjoying the videos. I chuckled a few moments Becca are how much I owe empathize with specific moments. Oh yeah, reposity. And, those moments when you have you repeat the exposure the yourself 20 times just to forget in a minute later. So I meter again.
Follow up question...
Did you need any movements, like front tilt, for the cabbage or shallot shots. Why or why not? I am curious about the thought process behind that decisions.
Yes I did have a few small movements. But the main objective was the bellows compensation. I am planning another video on more camera movements.
Hey Todd! Great looking exposures! Quick question: you said your 150mm lens had a bellows draw of 6 inches and the second lens you used had a bellows draw of 8 inches….how do you determine this initial number ? Is this based on focusing the lens on something at Infinity and then measuring the length of the bellows? Just confused on how to determine this base number in order to calculate how much over that you are when focusing on close objects to figure out your Bellows Factor extension. Thanks!
Just what I was going to ask.
You don't need bellows correction if the bellows is only as long as the lens focal length. 150mm and 6" are the same distance. He's correcting because close-up requires the bellows to be longer than 150mm (6"). When a bellows is at the focal length x 2 (150mm x 2 = 300mm), the subject is being photographed at a magnification of 1:1 (1cm/inch of film = 1cm/inch of subject). If you try the formula, you'll see that the correction is 2 stops when the lens is at 1:1 (bellows is 300mm long).
@@roryonabike5863 Great explanation !
Also, I am speaking in two measurements here, 150mm the number you see on the lens, the metric system and 6 inches is the imperial system. The formula I use is for the imperial system.
great video, and nice practical class on macro shooting, but one question, how did you get away with so little light, as the 'studio' was, seeing it on youtube, in semi-darkness, and isn't the rule that the larger the film, and format, the more light needed, hence why some use big studio flashes, just to get enough light.
Well depends on what you are shooting, since my subjects were not moving I could get away with long shutter speeds. With this set up I just wanted to feather some light in there.
@@toddkorolphoto thanks, a great shoot, especially as it is refreshing to see LF used for 'studio' use, not just landscapes, or portraits all the time, well done.
Hello Todd, thank you for your great video. Could you show the link to the app with the bellow extension calculation? Thx in advance
apps.apple.com/ca/app/reciprocity-timer/id459691262
You should be able to get it for Android as well.
@@toddkorolphoto Thank you , I downloaded it. 😀👍
You always teach me and impress me! BTW - what app is that for the huge timer you're using?
That’s just the iPhone stopwatch in the native clocks app
Great information, Todd. Thanks. What is the theme of the cookbook ? KB
It’s going to be a book of family recipes from my family and my wife’s family and from years of me traveling on the road.
@@toddkorolphoto Great, let us know when it's available. Thanks. KB
@@kenblair2538 Will do.
Hi Todd, thanks for this video. I am curious about your thought process deciding between 4x5 and 5x7 formats.
I use my 5x7 mainly for landscapes, the 4x5 for more editorial/portrait work where I want the large format look.
I use artoffoto app for my smartphone to calculate bellows and other factors. Very useful and free
Thanks, I'll check it out.
I have so many fellow photographers on RUclips give the formula at 7:57 that it makes me wonder if I am the only photographer who took basic math and knows that a²/b² = (a/b)². So why making it so hard on yourself at 8:11 by calculating 12²/6²=144/36=4, when you could just say (12/6)²=2²=4.
Please do yourself (and everyone else) a favor and be the first (or am I the first???) to just simplify the formula to dividing the bellow length by the focal length and then and only then figuring out the square of the result. It is much, much simpler, as it avoids the unnecessary division of two large numbers.
Very helpful but one thing I didn't understand: At 4:39 on the tape you said 'plus one extra stop' changing the exposure from 4sec at F16 to 4sec at F11. Why 'plus one extra stop'?
Because I had 3 extra inches of bellows from the 6" base of my lens, So because I had 3 extra inches, or 50% more bellows, I have to give the exposure 1 extra stop, so I opened up the aperture from F/16, the meter reading to F/11. Hope that helps.
@@toddkorolphoto Oh, OK. I thought you had already corrected for that by reducing to 1sec at 5.6. I did not realise that the subsequent readings were uncorrected or were they?
Im confused with the formula... Can anyone help me understand ty
Timely and welcome. I’ve been doing some tabletop still lifes myself with a home-made V-flat. Just wondering: how do you choose which hole to screw the front standard in? I’ve been assuming it’s where the lens is focused at infinity, but you seem to have a couple of positions for the one lens. Or did I miss the switch? Nice results, by the way.
I watched it again a little more carefully (but with just as much pleasure) and saw the 210 mm (8 inch) lens replace the 150 mm (6 inch) one. I also saw that you had the rear standard racked out, which may be why the front is positioned differently for the 210 mm lens. I hope we'll see more of the cookbook photos. Mr Penn would approve.
Beautiful work! Did you use the exposure info given by the incident reading (zone 5?) for your exposure before adding comp factor and reciprocity failure? Or did you add/subtract zones from the incident reading based on your vision and then compensate for extension and reciprocity?
Yes I used the incident reading to get zone 5, then added exposure comp and reciprocity. But if you also noticed, I metered for how the light was falling on the subject, not just how the subject faced the lens.
When you shoot eggs it takes three minutes. 😂
😉
Nice & Thanks :)
Name of the app used ?
Reciprocity Timer
Tops ... ☆☆☆☆☆
Awesome video,I think your channel is really good, so you know I do make Channel review videos of youtube channels and I will want to make one about your channel. if that is okay with you.please reply.
Sure thanks
@@STsubRush.1523 Hey thanks very much, looked great!